Our situation now required caution. Including those which gave out from
the injured condition of their feet, and those stolen by Indians, we
had lost, since leaving the Dalles of the Columbia, fifteen animals;
and of these, nine had been left in the last few days. I therefore
determined, until we should reach a country of water and vegetation, to
feel our way ahead, by having the line of route explored some fifteen
or twenty miles in advance, and only to leave a present encampment when
the succeeding one was known.
Taking with me Godey and Carson, I made to-day a thorough exploration
of the neighboring valleys, and found in a ravine, in the bordering
mountains, a good encamping place, where was water in springs, and a
sufficient quantity of grass for a night. Overshadowing the springs
were some trees of the sweet cottonwood, which, after a long interval
of absence, we saw again with pleasure; regarding them as harbingers of
a better country. To us, they were eloquent of green prairies and
buffalo. We found here a broad and plainly-marked trail, on which there
were tracks of horses, and we appeared to have regained one of the
thoroughfares which pass by the watering-places of the country. On the
western mountains of the valley, with which this of the boiling spring
communicates, we remarked scattered cedars--probably indicating that we
were on the borders of the timbered region extending to the Pacific. We
reached the camp at sunset, after a day's ride of about 40 miles. The
horses we rode were in good order, being of some that were kept for
emergencies, and rarely used.
Mr. Preuss had ascended one of the mountains, and occupied the day in
sketching the country; and Mr. Fitzpatrick had found, a few miles
distant, a hollow of excellent grass and pure water, to which the
animals were driven, as I remained another day to give them an
opportunity to recruit their strength. Indians appear to be everywhere
prowling about like wild animals, and there is a fresh trail across the
snow in the valley near.
Latitude of the boiling springs, 40° 39' 46".
On the 9th we crossed over to the cottonwood camp. Among the shrubs on
the hills were a few bushes of _ephedra occidentalis_, which afterwards
occurred frequently along the road, and, as usual, the lowlands were
occupied with artemisia. While the party proceeded to this place,
Carson and myself reconnoitred the road in advance, and found another
good encampment for the following day.
10th.--We continued our reconnoissance ahead, pursuing a south
direction in the basin along the ridge; the camp following slowly
after. On a large trail there is never any doubt of finding suitable
places for encampments. We reached the end of the basin, where we
found, in a hollow of the mountain which enclosed it, an abundance of
good bunch-grass. Leaving a signal for the party to encamp, we
continued our way up the hollow, intending to see what lay beyond the
mountain. The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass; the
snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Beyond, a
defile between the mountains descended rapidly about two thousand feet;
and, filling up all the lower space, was a sheet of green water, some
twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. The
neighboring peaks rose high above us, and we ascended one of them to
obtain a better view. The waves were curling in the breeze, and their
dark-green color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time
we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with mountains,
and the free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set like
a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to enclose it
almost entirely. At the western end it communicated with the line of
basins we had left a few days since; and on the opposite side it swept
a ridge of snowy mountains, the foot of the great Sierra. Its position
at first inclined us to believe it Mary's lake, but the rugged
mountains were so entirely discordant with descriptions of its low
rushy shores and open country, that we concluded it some unknown body
of water, which it afterwards proved to be.
On our road down, the next day, we saw herds of mountain sheep, and
encamped on a little stream at the mouth of the defile, about a mile
from the margin of the water, to which we hurried down immediately. The
water is so slightly salt, that, at first, we thought it fresh, and
would be pleasant to drink when no other could be had. The shore was
rocky--a handsome beach, which reminded us of the sea. On some large
_granite_ boulders that were scattered about the shore, I remarked a
coating of calcareous substance, in some places a few inches, and in
others a foot in thickness. Near our camp, the hills, which were of
primitive rock, were also covered with this substance, which was in too
great quantity on the mountains along the shore of the lake to have
been deposited by water, and has the appearance of having been spread
over the rocks in mass.
[Footnote: The label attached to a specimen of this rock was lost; but
I append an analysis of that which, from memory, I judge to be the
specimen:
Carbonate of lime------------------ 77.31 Carbonate of
magnesia-------------- 5.25 Oxide of iron---------------------- 1.60
Alumina---------------------------- 1.05
Silica----------------------------- 8.55 Organic matter, water, and
loss---- 6.24
-------
100.00]
Where we had halted appeared to be a favorite camping-place for Indians.
13th.--We followed again a broad Indian trail along the shore of the
lake to the southward. For a short space we had room enough in the
bottom; but, after traveling a short distance, the water swept the foot
of the precipitous mountains, the peaks of which are about 3,000 feet
above the lake. The trail wound along the base of these precipices,
against which the water dashed below, by a way nearly impracticable for
the howitzer. During a greater part of the morning the lake was nearly
hid by a snow-storm, and the waves broke on the narrow beach in a long
line of foaming serf, five or six feet high. The day was unpleasantly
cold, the wind driving the snow sharp against our faces; and, having
advanced only about 12 miles, we encamped in a bottom formed by a
ravine, covered with good grass, which was fresh and green.
We did not get the howitzer into camp, but were obliged to leave it on
the rocks until morning. We saw several flocks of sheep, but did not
succeed in killing any. Ducks were riding on the waves, and several
large fish were seen. The mountain sides were crusted with the
calcareous cement previously mentioned. There were chenopodiaceous and
other shrubs along the beach; and, at the foot of the rocks, an
abundance of _ephedra occidentalis_, whose dark-green color makes them
evergreens among the shrubby growth of the lake. Towards evening the
snow began to fall heavily, and the country had a wintry appearance.
The next morning the snow was rapidly melting under a warm sun. Part of
the morning was occupied in bringing up the gun; and, making only nine
miles, we encamped on the shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the
lake, which had attracted our attention for many miles. It rose,
according to our estimate, 600 feet above the water, and, from the
point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the great
pyramid of Cheops. Like other rocks along the shore, it seemed to be
incrusted with calcareous cement. This striking feature suggested a
name for the lake, and I called it Pyramid Lake; and though it may be
deemed by some a fanciful resemblance, I can undertake to say that the
future traveler will find much more striking resemblance between this
rock and the pyramids of Egypt, than there is between them and the
object from which they take their name.
The elevation of this lake above the sea is 4,890 feet, being nearly
700 feet higher than the Great Salt lake, from which it lies nearly
west, and distant about eight degrees of longitude. The position and
elevation of this lake make it an object of geographical interest. It
is the nearest lake to the western rim, as the Great Salt lake is to
the eastern rim, of the Great Basin which lies between the base of the
Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevada--and the extent and character of
which, its whole circumference and contents, it is so desirable to know.
The last of the cattle which had been driven from the Dalles was killed
here for food, and was still in good condition.
15th.--A few poor-looking Indians made their appearance this morning,
and we succeeded in getting one into the camp. He was naked, with the
exception of a tunic of hare-skins. He told us that there was a river
at the end of the lake, but that he lived in the rocks near by. From
the few words our people could understand, he spoke a dialect of the
Snake language; but we were not able to understand enough to know
Whether the river ran in or out, or what was its course; consequently,
there still remained a chance that this might be Mary's lake.
Groves of large cottonwood, which we could see at the mouth of the
river, indicated that it was a stream of considerable size, and, at all
events, we had the pleasure to know that now we were in a country where
human beings could live. Accompanied by the Indian, we resumed our
road, passing on the way several caves in the rock where there were
baskets and reeds, but the people had disappeared. We saw also
horse-tracks along the shore.
Early in the afternoon, when we were approaching the groves at the
mouth of the river, three or four Indians met us on the trail. We had
an explanatory conversation in signs, and then we moved on together
towards the village, which the chief said was encamped on the bottom.
Reaching the groves, we found the _inlet_ of a large freshwater stream,
and all at once were satisfied that it was neither Mary's river nor the
waters of the Sacramento, but that we had discovered a large interior
lake, which the Indians informed us had no outlet. It is about 35 miles
long, and, by the mark of the water-line along the shore, the spring
level is about 12 feet above its present waters. The chief commenced
speaking in a loud voice as we approached; and parties of Indians,
armed with bows and arrows, issued from the thickets. We selected a
strong place for our encampment--a grassy bottom, nearly enclosed by
the river, and furnished with abundant firewood. The village, a
collection of straw huts, was a few hundred yards higher up. An Indian
brought in a large fish to trade, which we had the inexpressible
satisfaction to find was a salmon-trout; we gathered round him eagerly.
The Indians were amused with our delight, and immediately brought in
numbers, so that the camp was soon stocked. Their flavor was
excellent--superior, in fact, to that of any fish I have ever known.
They were of extraordinary size--about as large as the Columbia River
salmon--generally from two to four feet in length. From the information
of Mr. Walker, who passed among some lakes lying more to the eastward,
this fish is common to the streams of the inland lakes. He subsequently
informed me that he had obtained them weighing six pounds when cleaned
and the head taken off, which corresponds very well with the size of
those obtained at this place. They doubtless formed the subsistence of
these people, who hold the fishery in exclusive possession.
I remarked that one of them gave a fish to the Indian we had first
seen, which he carried off to his family. To them it was probably a
feast; being of the Digger tribe, and having no share in the fishery,
living generally on seeds and roots. Although this was a time of the
year when the fish have not yet become fat, they were excellent, and we
could only imagine what they are at the proper season. These Indians
were very fat, and appeared to live an easy and happy life. They
crowded into the camp more than was consistent with our safety,
retaining always their arms; and, as they made some unsatisfactory
demonstrations, they were given to understand that they would not be
permitted to come armed into the camp; and strong guards were kept with
the horses. Strict vigilance was maintained among the people, and
one-third at a time were kept on guard during the night. There is no
reason to doubt that these dispositions, uniformly preserved, conducted
our party securely through Indians famed for treachery.
In the mean time, such a salmon-trout feast as is seldom seen was going
on in our camp; and every variety of manner in which fish could be
prepared--boiled, fried, and roasted in the ashes--was put into
requisition; and every few minutes an Indian would be seen running off
to spear a fresh one. Whether these Indians had seen whites before, we
could not be certain; but they were evidently in communication with
others who had, as one of them had some brass buttons, and we noticed
several other articles of civilized manufacture. We could obtain from
them but little information respecting the country. They made on the
ground a drawing of the river, which they represented as issuing from
another lake in the mountains three or four days distant, in a
direction a little west of south; beyond which, they drew a mountain;
and further still, two rivers; on one of which they told us that people
like ourselves traveled. Whether they alluded to the settlements on the
Sacramento, or to a party from the United States which had crossed the
Sierra about three degrees to the southward, a few years since, I am
unable to determine.
I tried unsuccessfully to prevail on some of them to guide us for a few
days on the road, but they only looked at each other and laughed.
The latitude of our encampment, which may be considered the mouth of
the inlet, is 39° 51' 13" by our observations.
16th.--This morning we continued our journey along this beautiful
stream, which we naturally called the Salmon Trout river. Large trails
led up on either side; the stream was handsomely timbered with large
cottonwoods; and the waters were very clear and pure. We were traveling
along the mountains of the great Sierra, which rose on our right,
covered with snow; but below the temperature was mild and pleasant. We
saw a number of dams which the Indians had constructed to catch fish.
After having made about 18 miles, we encamped under some large
cottonwoods on the river bottom, where there was tolerably good grass.
17th.--This morning we left the river, which here issues from mountains
on the west. With every stream I now expected to see the great
Buenaventura; and Carson hurried eagerly to search, on every one we
reached, for beaver cuttings, which he always maintained we should find
only on waters that ran to the Pacific; and the absence of such signs
was to him a sure indication that the water had no outlet from the
Great Basin. We followed the Indian trail through a tolerably level
country, with small sage-bushes, which brought us, after 20 miles'
journey, to another large stream, timbered with cottonwood, and flowing
also out of the mountains, but running more directly to the eastward.
On the way we surprised a family of Indians in the hills; but the man
ran up the mountain with rapidity; and the woman was so terrified, and
kept up such a continued screaming, that we could do nothing with her,
and were obliged to let her go.
18th.--There were Indian lodges and fish-dams on the stream. There were
no beaver cuttings on the river; but below, it turned round to the
right; and, hoping that it would prove a branch of the Buenaventura, we
followed it down for about three hours, and encamped.
I rode out with Mr. Fitzpatrick and Carson to reconnoitre the country,
which had evidently been alarmed by the news of our appearance. This
stream joined with the open valley of another to the eastward; but
which way the main water ran, it was impossible to tell. Columns of
smoke rose over the country at scattered intervals--signals by which
the Indians here, as elsewhere, communicate to each other that enemies
are in the country. It is a signal of ancient and very universal
application among barbarians.
Examining into the condition of the animals when I returned into the
camp, I found their feet so much cut up by the rocks, and so many of
them lame, that it was evidently impossible that they could cross the
country to the Rocky mountains. Every piece of iron that could be used
for the purpose had been converted into nails, and we could make no
further use of the shoes we had remaining. I therefore determined to
abandon my eastern course, and to cross the Sierra Nevada into the
valley of the Sacramento, wherever a practicable pass could be found.
My decision was heard with joy by the people, and diffused new life
throughout the camp.
Latitude, by observation, 39° 24' 16".
19th.--A great number of smokes are still visible this morning,
attesting at once the alarm our appearance had spread among these
people, and their ignorance of us. If they knew the whites, they would
understand that their only object in coming among them was to trade,
which required peace and friendship; but they have nothing to
trade--consequently, nothing to attract the white man; hence their fear
and flight.
At daybreak we had a heavy snow; but set out, and, returning up the
stream, went out of our way in a circuit over a little mountain; and
encamped on the same stream, a few miles above, in latitude 39° 19' 21"
by observation.
20th.--To-day we continued up the stream, and encamped on it close to
the mountains. The freshly fallen snow was covered with the tracks of
Indians, who had descended from upper waters, probably called down by
the smokes in the plain.
We ascended a peak of the range, which commanded a view of this stream
behind the first ridge, where it was winding its course through a
somewhat open valley, and I sometimes regret that I did not make the
trial to cross here; but while we had fair weather below, the mountains
were darkened with falling snow, and, feeling unwilling to encounter
them, we turned away again to the southward. In that direction we
traveled the next day over a tolerably level country, having always the
high mountains on the west. There was but little snow or rock on the
ground; and, after having traveled 24 miles, we encamped again on
another large stream, running off to the northward and eastward, to
meet that we had left. It ran through broad bottoms, having a fine
meadow-land appearance.
Latitude 39° 01' 53".
22d.--We traveled up the stream about fourteen miles, to the foot of
the mountains, from which one branch issued in the southwest, the other
flowing S.S.E. along their base. Leaving camp below, we ascended the
range through which the first stream passed, in a canon; on the western
side was a circular valley about 15 miles long, through which the
stream wound its way, issuing from a gorge in the main mountain, which
rose abruptly beyond. The valley looked yellow with faded grass; and
the trail we had followed was visible, making towards the gorge, and
this was evidently a pass; but again, while all was bright sunshine on
the ridge and on the valley where we were, the snow was falling heavily
in the mountains. I determined go still to the southward, and encamped
on the stream near the forks, the animals being fatigued and the grass
tolerably good.
The rock of the ridge we had ascended is a compact lava, assuming a
granitic appearance and structure, and containing, in some places,
small nodules of obsidian. So far as composition and aspect are
concerned, the rock in other parts of the ridge appears to be granite;
but it is probable that this is only a compact form of lava of recent
origin.
By observation, the elevation of the encampment was 5,020 feet; and the
latitude 38° 49' 54".
23d.--We moved along the course of the other branch towards the
southeast, the country affording a fine road; and, passing some slight
dividing-grounds, descended towards the valley of another stream. There
was a somewhat rough-looking mountain ahead, which it appeared to issue
from, or to enter--we could not tell which; and as the course of the
valley and the inclination of the ground had a favorable direction, we
were sanguine to find here a branch of the Buenaventura; but were again
disappointed, finding it an inland water, on which we encamped after a
day's journey of 24 miles. It was evident that, from the time we
descended into the plain at Summer lake, we had been flanking the great
range of mountains which divided the Great Basin from the waters of the
Pacific; and that the continued succession, and almost connection, of
lakes and rivers which we encountered, were the drainings of that
range. Its rains, springs, and snows, would sufficiently account for
these lakes and streams, numerous as they were.
24th.--A man was discovered running towards the camp as we were about
to start this morning, who proved to be an Indian of rather advanced
age--a sort of forlorn hope, who seemed to have been worked up into the
resolution of visiting the strangers who were passing through the
country. He seized the hand of the first man he met as he came up, out
of breath, and held on, as if to assure himself of protection. He
brought with him, in a little skin bag, a few pounds of the seeds of a
pine-tree, which to-day we saw for the first time, and which Dr. Torrey
has described as a new species, under the name of _pinus monophyllus_;
in popular language it might be called the _nut pine_. We purchased
them all from him. The nut is oily, of very agreeable flavor, and must
be very nutritious, as it constitutes the principal subsistence of the
tribes among which we were now traveling. By a present of scarlet
cloth, and other striking articles, we prevailed upon this man to be
our guide of two days' journey. As clearly as possible by signs, we
made him understand our object; and he engaged to conduct us in sight
of a good pass which he knew. Here we ceased to hear the Shoshonee
language--that of this man being perfectly unintelligible. Several
Indians, who had been waiting to see what reception he would meet with,
now came into camp; and, accompanied by the new-comers, we resumed our
journey.
The road led us up the creek, which here becomes a rather rapid
mountain stream, fifty feet wide, between dark-looking hills without
snow; but immediately beyond them rose snowy mountains on either side,
timbered principally with the nut pine. On the lower grounds, the
general height of this tree is twelve to twenty feet, and eight inches
the greatest diameter; it is rather branching, and has a peculiar and
singular, but pleasant odor. We followed the river for only a short
distance along a rocky trail, and crossed it at a dam which the Indians
made us comprehend had been built to catch salmon trout. The snow and
ice were heaped up against it three or four feet deep entirely across
the stream.
Leaving here the stream, which runs through impassable canons, we
continued our road over a very broken country, passing through a low
gap between the snowy mountains. The rock which occurs immediately in
the pass has the appearance of impure sandstone, containing scales of
black mica. This may be only a stratified lava. On issuing from the
gap, the compact lava, and other volcanic products usual in the
country, again occurred. We descended from the gap into a wide valley,
or rather basin, and encamped on a small tributary to the last stream,
on which there was very good grass. It was covered with such thick ice,
that it required some labor with pickaxes to make holes for the animals
to drink. The banks are lightly wooded with willow, and on the upper
bottoms are sage and Fremontia, with _ephedra occidentalis_, which
begins to occur more frequently. The day has been a summer one, warm
and pleasant; no snow on the trail, which, as we are all on foot, makes
traveling more agreeable. The hunters went into a neighboring mountain,
but found no game. We have five Indians in camp to-night.
25th.--The morning was cold and bright, and as the sun rose the day
became beautiful. A party of twelve Indians came down from the
mountains to trade pine nuts, of which each one carried a little bag.
These seemed now to be the staple of the country; and whenever we met
an Indian, his friendly salutation consisted in offering a few nuts to
eat and to trade; their only arms were bows and flint-pointed arrows.
It appeared that in almost all the valleys the neighboring bands were
at war with each other; and we had some difficulty in prevailing on our
guides to accompany us on this day's journey, being at war with the
people on the other side of a large snowy mountain which lay before us.
The general level of the country appeared to be getting higher, and we
were gradually entering the heart of the mountains. Accompanied by all
the Indians, we ascended a long ridge, and reached a pure spring at the
edge of the timber, where the Indians had waylaid and killed an
antelope, and where the greater part of them left us. Our pacific
conduct had quieted their alarms; and though at war among each other,
yet all confided in us--thanks to the combined effects of power and
kindness--for our arms inspired respect, and our little presents and
good treatment conciliated their confidence. Here we suddenly entered
snow six inches deep, and the ground was a little rocky, with volcanic
fragments, the mountain appearing to be composed of such rock. The
timber consists principally of nut pines, (_pinus monophyllus_,) which
here are of larger size--12 to 15 inches in diameter; heaps of cones
lying on the ground, where the Indians have gathered the seeds.
The snow deepened gradually as we advanced. Our guides wore out their
moccasins; and putting one of them on a horse, we enjoyed the unusual
sight of an Indian who could not ride. He could not even guide the
animal, and appeared to have no knowledge of horses. The snow was three
or four feet deep on the summit of the, pass; and from this point the
guide pointed out our future road, declining to go any further. Below
us was a little valley; and beyond this the mountains rose higher
still, one ridge above another, presenting a rude and rocky outline. We
descended rapidly to the valley: the snow impeded us but little; yet it
was dark when we reached the foot of the mountain.
The day had been so warm that our moccasins were wet with melting snow;
but here, as soon as the sun begins to decline, the air gets suddenly
cold, and we had great difficulty to keep our feet from freezing--our
moccasins being frozen perfectly stiff. After a hard day's march of 27
miles, we reached the river some time after dark, and found the snow
about a foot deep on the bottom--the river being entirely frozen over.
We found a comfortable camp, where there were dry willows abundant, and
we soon had blazing fires. A little brandy, which I husbanded with
great care, remained, and I do not know any medicine more salutary, or
any drink (except coffee) more agreeable, than this in a cold night and
after a hard day's march. Mr. Preuss questioned whether the famed
nectar ever possessed so exquisite a flavor. All felt it to be a
reviving cordial.
The next morning, when the sun had not yet risen over the mountains,
the thermometer was at 2° below zero; but the sky was bright and pure,
and the weather changed rapidly into a pleasant day of summer. I
remained encamped in order to examine the country, and allow the
animals a day of rest, the grass being good and abundant under the snow.
The river is fifty or eighty feet wide, with a lively current, and very
clear water. It forked a little above our camp, one of its branches
coming directly from the south. At its head appeared to be a handsome
pass; and from the neighboring heights we could see, beyond, a
comparatively low and open country, which was supposed to form the
valley of the Buenaventura. The other branch issued from a nearer pass,
in a direction S. 75° W., forking at the foot of the mountain, and
receiving a part of its waters from a little lake. I was in advance of
the camp when our last guides had left us; but, so far as could be
understood, this was the pass which they had indicated, and, in company
with Carson, to-day I set out to explore it. Entering the range, we
continued in a northwesterly direction up the valley, which here bent
to the right. It was a pretty open bottom, locked between lofty
mountains, which supplied frequent streams as we advanced. On the lower
part they were covered with nut-pine trees, and above with masses of
pine, which we easily recognised, from the darker color of the foliage.
From the fresh trails which occurred frequently during the morning,
deer appeared to be remarkably numerous in the mountain.
We had now entirely left the desert country, and were on the verge of a
region which, extending westward to the shores of the Pacific, abounds
in large game, and is covered with a singular luxuriance of vegetable
life.
The little stream grew rapidly smaller, and in about twelve miles we
had reached its head, the last water coming immediately out of the
mountain on the right; and this spot was selected for our next
encampment. The grass showed well in sunny places; but in colder
situations the snow was deep, and began to occur in banks, through
which the horses found some difficulty in breaking a way.
To the left, the open valley continued in a southwesterly direction,
with a scarcely perceptible ascent, forming a beautiful pass, the
exploration of which we deferred until the next day, and returned to
the camp.
To-day an Indian passed through the valley, on his way into the
mountains, where he showed us was his lodge. We comprehended nothing of
his language; and, though he appeared to have no fear, passing along in
full view of the camp, he was indisposed to hold any communication with
us, but showed the way he was going, and pointed for us to go on our
road.
By observation, the latitude of this encampment was 38° 18' 01", and
the elevation above the sea 6,310 feet.
27th.--Leaving the camp to follow slowly, with directions to Carson to
encamp at the place agreed on, Mr. Fitzpatrick and myself continued the
reconnoissance. Arriving at the head of the stream, we began to enter
the pass--passing occasionally through open groves of large pine-trees,
on the warm side of the defile, where the snow had melted away,
occasionally exposing a large Indian trail. Continuing along a narrow
meadow, we reached, in a few miles, the gate of the pass, where there
was a narrow strip of prairie, about 50 yards wide, between walls of
granite rock. On either side rose the mountains, forming on the left a
rugged mass, or nucleus, wholly covered with deep snow, presenting a
glittering and icy surface. At the time, we supposed this to be the
point into which they were gathered between the two great rivers, and
from which the waters flowed off to the bay. This was the icy and cold
side of the pass, and the rays of the sun hardly touched the snow. On
the left, the mountains rose into peaks, but they were lower and
secondary, and the country had a somewhat more open and lighter
character. On the right were several hot springs, which appeared
remarkable in such a place. In going through, we felt impressed by the
majesty of the mountain, along the huge wall of which we were riding.
Here there was no snow; but immediately beyond was a deep bank, through
which we dragged our horses with considerable effort. We then
immediately struck upon a stream, which gathered itself rapidly, and
descended quick; and the valley did not preserve the open character of
the other side, appearing below to form a canon. We therefore climbed
one of the peaks on the right, leaving our horses below; but we were so
much shut up that we did not obtain an extensive view, and what we saw
was not very satisfactory, and awakened considerable doubt. The valley
of the stream pursued a northwesterly direction, appearing below to
turn sharply to the right, beyond which further view was cut off. It
was, nevertheless, resolved to continue our road the next day down this
valley, which we trusted still would prove that of the middle stream
between the two great rivers. Towards the summit of this peak, the
fields of snow were four or five feet deep on the northern side; and we
saw several large hares, which had on their winter color, being white
as the snow around them.
The winter day is short in the mountains, the sun having but a small
space of sky to travel over in the visible part above our horizon; and
the moment his rays are gone, the air is keenly cold. The interest of
our work had detained us long, and it was after nightfall when we
reached the camp.
28th.--To-day we went through the pass with all the camp, and, after a
hard day's journey of twelve miles, encamped on a high point where the
snow had been blown off, and the exposed grass afforded a scanty
pasture for the animals. Snow and broken country together made our
traveling difficult; we were often compelled to make large circuits,
and ascend the highest and most exposed ridges, in order to avoid snow,
which in other places was banked up to a great depth.
During the day a few Indians were seen circling around us on
snow-shoes, and skimming along like birds; but we could not bring them
within speaking distance. Godey, who was a little distance from the
camp, had sat down to tie his moccasins, when he heard a low whistle
near, and, looking up, saw two Indians half hiding behind a rock about
forty yards distant; they would not allow him to approach, but breaking
into a laugh, skimmed off over the snow, seeming to have no idea of the
power of firearms, and thinking themselves perfectly safe when beyond
arm's length.
To-night we did not succeed in getting the howitzer into camp. This was
the most laborious day we had yet passed through, the steep ascents and
deep snow exhausting both men and animals. Our single chronometer had
stopped during the day, and its error in time occasioned the loss of an
eclipse of a satellite this evening. It had not preserved the rate with
which we started from the Dalles, and this will account for the absence
of longitudes along this interval of our journey.
29th.--From this height we could see, at a considerable distance below,
yellow spots in the valley, which indicated that there was not much
snow. One of these places we expected to reach to-night; and some time
being required to bring up the gun, I went ahead with Mr. Fitzpatrick
and a few men, leaving the camp to follow, in charge of Mr. Preuss. We
followed a trail down a hollow where the Indians had descended, the
snow being so deep that we never came near the ground; but this only
made our descent the easier, and, when we reached a little affluent to
the river, at the bottom, we suddenly found ourselves in presence of
eight or ten Indians. They seemed to be watching our motions, and, like
the others, at first were indisposed to let us approach, ranging
themselves like birds on a fallen log, on the hill-side above our
heads, where, being out of our reach, they thought themselves safe. Our
friendly demeanor reconciled them, and, when we got near enough, they
immediately stretched out to us handfuls of pine-nuts, which seemed an
exercise of hospitality. We made them a few presents, and, telling us
that their village was a few miles below, they went on to let their
people know what we were. The principal stream still running through an
impracticable canon, we ascended a very steep hill, which proved
afterwards the last and fatal obstacle to our little howitzer, which
was finally abandoned at this place. We passed through a small meadow a
few miles below, crossing the river, which depth, swift current, and
rock, made it difficult to ford; and, after a few more miles of very
difficult trail, issued into a larger prairie bottom, at the farther
end of which we encamped, in a position rendered strong by rocks and
trees. The lower parts of the mountain were covered with the nut-pine.
Several Indians appeared on the hill-side, reconnoitring the camp, and
were induced to come in; others came in during the afternoon; and in
the evening we held a council. The Indians immediately made it clear
that the waters on which we were also belonged to the Great Basin, in
the edge of which we had been since the 17th of December; and it became
evident that we had still the great ridge on the left to cross before
we could reach the Pacific waters.
We explained to the Indians that we were endeavoring to find a passage
across the mountains into the country of the whites, whom we were going
to see; and told them that we wished them to bring us a guide, to whom
we would give presents of scarlet cloth, and other articles, which were
shown to them. They looked at the reward we offered, and conferred with
each other, but pointed to the snow on the mountain, and drew their
hands across their necks, and raised them above their heads, to show
the depth; and signified that it was impossible for us to get through.
They made signs that we must go to the southward, over a pass through a
lower range, which they pointed out: there, they said, at the end of
one day's travel, we would find people who lived near a pass in the
great mountain; and to that point they engaged to furnish us a guide.
They appeared to have a confused idea, from report, of whites who lived
on the other side of the mountain; and once, they told us, about two
years ago, a party of twelve men like ourselves had ascended their
river, and crossed to the other waters. They pointed out to us where
they had crossed; but then, they said, it was summer time; but now it
would be impossible. I believe that this was a party led by Mr. Chiles,
one of the only two men whom I know to have passed through the
California mountains from the interior of the Basin--Walker being the
other; and both were engaged upwards of twenty days, in the summer
time, in getting over. Chiles's destination was the bay of San
Francisco, to which he descended by the Stanislaus river; and Walker
subsequently informed me that, like myself, descending to the southward
on a more eastern line, day after day he was searching for the
Buenaventura, thinking that he had found it with every new stream,
until, like me, he abandoned all idea of its existence, and, turning
abruptly to the right, crossed the great chain. These were both western
men, animated with the spirit of exploratory enterprise which
characterizes that people.
The Indians brought in during the evening an abundant supply of
pine-nuts, which we traded from them. When roasted, their pleasant
flavor made them an agreeable addition to our now scanty store of
provisions, which were reduced to a very low ebb. Our principal stock
was in peas, which it is not necessary to say contain scarcely any
nutriment. We had still a little flour left, some coffee, and a
quantity of sugar, which I reserved as a defence against starvation.
The Indians informed us that at certain seasons they have fish in their
waters, which we supposed to be salmon-trout: for the remainder of the
year they live upon the pine-nuts, which form their great winter
subsistence--a portion being always at hand, shut up in the natural
storehouse of the cones. At present, they were presented to us as a
whole people living upon this simple vegetable.
The other division of the party did not come in to-night, but encamped
in the upper meadow, and arrived the next morning. They had not
succeeded in getting the howitzer beyond the place mentioned, and where
it had been left by Mr. Preuss, in obedience to my orders; and, in
anticipation of the snow-banks and snow-fields still ahead, foreseeing
the inevitable detention to which it would subject us, I reluctantly
determined to leave it there for the time. It was of the kind invented
by the French for the mountain part of their war in Algiers; and the
distance it had come with us proved how well it was adapted to its
purpose. We left it, to the great sorrow of the whole party, who were
grieved to part with a companion which had made the whole distance from
St. Louis, and commanded respect for us on some critical occasions, and
which might be needed for the same purpose again.
30th.--Our guide, who was a young man, joined us this morning; and,
leaving our encampment late in the day, we descended the river, which
immediately opened out into a broad valley, furnishing good traveling
ground. In a short distance we passed the village, a collection of
straw huts; and a few miles below, the guide pointed out the place
where the whites had been encamped, before they entered the mountain.
With our late start we made but ten miles, and encamped on the low
river-bottom, where there was no snow, but a great deal of ice; and we
cut piles of long grass to lay under our blankets, and fires were made
of large dry willows, groves of which wooded the stream. The river took
here a northeasterly direction, and through a spur from the mountains
on the left was the gap where we were to pass the next day.
31st.--We took our way over a gently rising ground, the dividing ridge
being tolerably low; and traveling easily along a broad trail, in
twelve or fourteen miles reached the upper part of the pass, when it
began to snow thickly, with very cold weather. The Indians had only the
usual scanty covering, and appeared to suffer greatly from the cold.
All left us, except our guide. Half hidden by the storm, the mountains
looked dreary; and, as night began to approach, the guide showed great
reluctance to go forward. I placed him between two rifles, for the way
began to be difficult. Traveling a little farther, we struck a ravine,
which the Indian said would conduct us to the river; and as the poor
fellow suffered greatly, shivering in the snow which fell upon his
naked skin, I would not detain him any longer; and he ran off to the
mountain, where he said was a hut near by. He had kept the blue and
scarlet cloth I had given him tightly rolled up, preferring rather to
endure the cold than to get them wet. In the course of the afternoon,
one of the men had his foot frostbitten; and about dark we had the
satisfaction to reach the bottoms of a stream timbered with large
trees, among which we found a sheltered camp, with an abundance of such
grass as the season afforded for the animals. We saw before us, in
descending from the pass, a great continuous range, along which
stretched the valley of the river; the lower parts steep, and dark with
pines, while above it was hidden in clouds of snow. This we felt
instantly satisfied was the central ridge of the Sierra Nevada, the
great California mountain, which only now intervened between us and the
waters of the bay. We had made a forced march of 26 miles, and three
mules had given out on the road. Up to this point, with the exception
of two stolen by Indians, we had lost none of the horses which had been
brought from the Columbia river, and a number of these were still
strong and in tolerably good order. We had now 67 animals in the band.
We had scarcely lighted our fires, when the camp was crowded with
nearly naked Indians; some of them were furnished with long nets in
addition to bows, and appeared to have been out on the sage hills to
hunt rabbits. These nets were perhaps 30 to 40 feet long, kept upright
in the ground by slight sticks at intervals, and were made from a kind
of wild hemp, very much resembling in manufacture those common among
the Indians of the Sacramento valley. They came among us without any
fear, and scattered themselves about the fires, mainly occupied in
gratifying their astonishment. I was struck by the singular appearance
of a row of about a dozen, who were sitting on their haunches perched
on a log near one of the fires, with their quick sharp eyes following
every motion.
We gathered together a few of the most intelligent of the Indians, and
held this evening an interesting council. I explained to them my
intentions. I told them that we had come from a very far country,
having been traveling now nearly a year, and that we were desirous
simply to go across the mountain into the country of the other whites.
There were two who appeared particularly intelligent--one, a somewhat
old man. He told me that, before the snows fell, it was six sleeps to
the place where the whites lived, but that now it was impossible to
cross the mountain on account of the deep snow; and showing us, as the
others had done, that it was over our heads, he urged us strongly to
follow the course of the river, which he said would conduct us to a
lake in which there were many large fish. There, he said, were many
people; there was no snow on the ground; and we might remain there
until the spring. From their descriptions, we were enabled to judge
that we had encamped on the upper water of the Salmon Trout river. It
is hardly necessary to say that our communication was only by signs, as
we understood nothing of their language; but they spoke,
notwithstanding, rapidly and vehemently, explaining what they
considered the folly of our intentions, and urging us to go down to the
lake. _Tah-ve_, a word signifying snow, we very soon learned to know,
from its frequent repetition. I told him that the men and the horses
were strong, that we would break a road through the snow; and spreading
before him our bales of scarlet cloth, and trinkets, showed him what we
would give for a guide. It was necessary to obtain one, if possible;
for I had determined here to attempt the passage of the mountain.
Pulling a bunch of grass from the ground, after a short discussion
among themselves, the old man made us comprehend, that if we could
break through the snow, at the end of three days we would come down
upon grass, which he showed us would be about six inches high, and
where, the ground was entirely free. So far, he said, he had been in
hunting for elk; but beyond that (and he closed his eyes) he had seen
nothing; but there was one among them who had been to the whites, and,
going out of the lodge, he returned with a young man of very
intelligent appearance. Here, said he, is a young man who has seen the
whites with his own eyes; and he swore, first by the sky, and then by
the ground, that what he said was true. With a large present of goods,
we prevailed upon this young man to be our guide, and he acquired among
us the name of Melo--a word signifying friend, which they used very
frequently. He was thinly clad, and nearly barefoot; his moccasins
being about worn out. We gave him skins to make a new pair, and to
enable him to perform his undertaking to us. The Indians remained in
the camp during the night, and we kept the guide and two others to
sleep in the lodge with us--Carson lying across the door, and having
made them comprehend the use of our fire arms.