_Arrival at Oppernavik. Account of Uttakiyok. His perseverance
in waiting for the arrival of the Missionaries. Islands and
bays between Kakkeviak and Killinek. Danger in the ice at
Ammitok. Want of fuel supplied by robbing old graves._
When we arrived at Oppernavik, we found _Uttakiyok_, with his two wives
and youngest brother, waiting to receive us. He and his family are from
the Ungava bay, and had been upon the watch in this place during the
whole spring. They welcomed us with shouts of joy, and firing of their
pieces, and we had indeed the greatest reason to thank God, that he had
sent us this man, to conduct us on our way to an unknown country, and
through unfrequented seas.
For this service Uttakiyok was eminently qualified, and without such a
steady, faithful guide, we should have been wandering in the most
painful and dangerous uncertainty in the desert regions to the West of
Cape Chudleigh, where, on a coast of 100 miles in length, we did not
meet with a single inhabitant. He was so anxiously intent upon meeting
us, that he had erected signals on all the heights surrounding his tent,
to prevent our missing him. Among his countrymen he is much respected,
on account of his superior sense, and skill in all Esquimaux arts, and
possesses great influence among them.
_Uttakiyok_ was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in the year 1800,
we received the first distinct information respecting the Ungava country
and its inhabitants, by which the desire, excited both at home and here
in Labrador, to visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly strengthened,
and led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps to accomplish
this object, (See page 3).
Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak, from Killinek,
where he then dwelt, and intended to return, in the summer following, to
Ungava, his native country, but an illness, which befel his son,
detained him. This intelligence was received at Okkak during last
winter, when we sent him word, that as we purposed paying his countrymen
a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct us through
the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing further concerning
him, we remained in uncertainty respecting his intentions. We were the
more thankful to God, who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully
to accept of the commission, and wait to be our guide, an office which
he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested kindness,
which claims our admiration and gratitude.
While we were here waiting for a favourable opportunity to pass the
straits, which were yet filled with ice, he behaved in the kindest
manner to us and our Esquimaux. Though a heathen, he regularly attended
our morning and evening worship, and declared to Jonathan, that he also
intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we would form a settlement in
his country, would come and live with us, and was sure, that many of his
countrymen would do the same.
Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered with seal's
flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten bags of blubber were
standing ready for sale; and with a view to shew him our good-will,
Brother Kohlmeister bartered with him for three of them, which were hid
under the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, on our return.
26th. We put up our three tents; Uttakiyok's people had three more. Wind
N.W. We were now near the entrance into the Ikkerasak, (or straits),
which separate the island of Killinek and two or three other large
islands from the continent. They stretch to the N. to the distance of
about 12 or 15 English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. To
the N.W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by the
Esquimaux _Tutsaets_, and N.N.E. of these, the great island
_Resolution_, called _Igloarsuk_, on which, as we were informed, many
Esquimaux reside. The Tutsaets were discernible from this place, but not
the latter, which however, as the Esquimaux say, may be seen from the
Tutsaets. We guessed at its situation, from the clouds hanging over it
in the North quarter. The weather was, as might be expected on the
northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and cold, and our small stove,
which we brought into the tent, was of great use to us during our stay
in this place.
27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceeding. We caught
some _Pitsiolaks_, (awks), and a brace of young puffins, which, with the
addition of some salt meat, made excellent broth.
28th. The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing hard at N.W.
Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok's tent, and sitting down with him at the
point of Oppernavik, and looking down the coast as far as Kakkeviak, got
him to name all the bays, points, and islands, from Kakkeviak to
Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The distance between the two
points or headlands may be guessed at, by the time of sailing with a
strong leading wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up from
Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, _Kikkertorsoak_, _Imilialuk_,
rather less in view, and _Nessetservik_. Having passed these, there
follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very high, stretching
towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakkeviak lies _Uglek_; then a bay,
_Nulluk_, and farther to the left another bay, _Tellek_, (right arm).
The country along these bays is called _Attanarsuk_. Now follow the bay
_Ikkorliarsuk_, the lower point of _Tikkerarsuk_, the bay _Annivagtok_,
and _Kakkeviak_, a high promontory, (not to be confounded with the other
Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock. This promontory is only about
four miles from Oppernavik to the S.E.). Then follow two small bays,
_Anniovariktok_ and _Sangmiyok_, then the promontory _Ukkuliakartok_,
(meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay _Tunnusuksoak_. Next,
the last point on the continent, forming the south entrance to the
Ikkerasak. The abovementioned chain of barren islands is called by the
Esquimaux _Naviarutsit_, and besides them some low rocks, _Nuvurutsit_.
The island of Killinek is about nine miles long, and five broad, high,
and forming the north side of the straits. Another Ikkerasak, (or
strait), divides it from an island called Kikkertorsoak, (a common name
for an island), of considerable height, but not so long as _Killinek_:
one, or perhaps more islands follow, narrowing E. and W. and forming
Cape Chudleigh.
To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea. We went to the
nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeister took an observation, and found
our situation to be 60° 16'.
30th. It blew a hard gale from the N.E., rained hard, and as the ice now
began to enter our harbour, we were busily engaged in keeping it off the
boat.
31st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from ice, we
resolved to attempt to pass them, and set sail. But it soon became
evident, that there was still plenty of ice in the neighbourhood, and
the wind setting to the N.E. with fogs, we were obliged to return.
Suspecting also that the easterly wind would again drive the ice into
our former harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pass, between that
and a small island called Ammitok, where we anchored under shelter of
the island. The sequel proved, that we had for once acted with sound
judgment and foresight, for our former anchoring-ground was soon filled
with ice; and during the night large flakes entered even into our
present place of refuge.
_August_ 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely surrounded by
floating ice, a strong N.W. wind driving the large shoals from the W.
side of the little pass in which we lay, with much force towards us,
insomuch that our boat was in the greatest danger of being crushed to
pieces by them. We were all day long hard at work with poles,
boat-hooks, and hatchets, to ward off the larger shoals, but when the
tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of which we had three
out, closing in also on all sides of the boat, so that we were every
moment in fearful expectation of her being carried away, and our anchors
lost, which would have reduced us to the most distressing situation.
Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous situation,
and not to suffer us to perish here, but by His almighty aid, to save us
and our boat. With great and unremitting exertions we had laboured all
day, from the morning early, till seven in the evening, when the Lord
heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in working the boat
out of the ice, the rising of the tide having opened a passage through
it, just as we were almost exhausted with fatigue. It also became quite
calm, and we felt as if we had passed from death to life.
Having anchored again on the opposite side of the little pass or strait,
we gave thanks to God, for the deliverance we had experienced through
His mercy, in which our Esquimaux, young and old, most fervently joined.
During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire-wood was
expended, and we were obliged to purchase of our companions, what they
had to spare. We likewise robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden
utensils, which it is the superstitious practice of the heathen to lay
beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles, &c. and thus
obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery.
Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in Labrador, but wastes
away gradually; and after forty or more years, the wood found at the
graves is still fit for use.