[Illustration: Chitral Bridge and Fort.]
WITH KELLY TO CHITRAL
By
LIEUTENANT W.G.L. BEYNON, D.S.O.
1st BATTALLION 3rd GOORKA RIFLES
STAFF OFFICER TO COLONEL KELLY'S RELIEF FORCE
1896
GILGIT,
_21st October 1895_
MY DEAR MOTHER,
Before you read this short history of a few brief weeks, I must warn you
that it is no record of exciting adventure or heroic deeds, but simply
an account of the daily life of British officers and Indian troops on a
frontier expedition.
How we lived and marched, what we ate and drank, our small jokes and
trials, our marches through snow or rain, hot valleys or pleasant
fields, in short, all that contributed to fill the twenty-four hours of
the day is what I have to tell.
I write it for you, and that it may please you is all I ask.--Your son,
W.B.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I - INTRODUCTORY
CHAPTER II - THE MARCH BEGINS
CHAPTER III - THE SHANDUR PASS
CHAPTER IV - FROM LASPUR TO GASHT
CHAPTER V - CHOKALWAT
CHAPTER VI - THE RECONNAISSANCE FROM MASTUJ
CHAPTER VII - THE FIGHT AT NISA GOL
CHAPTER VIII - THE MARCH RESUMED THROUGH KILLA DRASAN
CHAPTER IX - NEARING CHITRAL
CHAPTER X - WE REACH THE GOAL
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
_Those marked with a * are from Sketches by the Author_.
*CHITRAL BRIDGE AND FORT
NIZAM-UL-MULK, MEHTER OF CHITRAL
*A "PARI" ON THE ROAD TO GUPIS
*THE SHANDUR PASS
*RECONNAISSANCE SKETCH OF THE POSITION AT CHOKALWAT
*MASTUJ FORT
LOOKING UP THE NISA GOL NULLAH
*RECONNAISSANCE SKETCH OF THE POSITION AT NISA GOL
MAP SHOWING ROUTE OF COLONEL KELLY'S FORCES
* * * * *
*** Thanks are due to the Publishers of Mr. Thomson's _The Chitral
Campaign_ for the loan of two blocks illustrating "Chokalwat" and "Nisa
Gol" from Lieut. Beynon's sketches.
[Illustration: MAP OF NORTH WEST FRONTIER OF INDIA*]
WITH KELLY TO CHITRAL
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY
"Would you like to go up to Gilgit?"
"Rather."
I was down in the military offices at Simla, hunting for a book and some
maps, when I was asked the above question. No idea of Gilgit had before
entered my head, but with the question came the answer, and I have since
wondered why I never before thought of applying for the billet.
This was at the end of June 1894, and on the 24th August I was crossing
the Burzil pass into the Gilgit district. As day broke on the 31st
August, I dropped down several thousand feet from Doyen to Ramghat in
the Indus valley, and it suddenly struck me I must have come down too
low, and got into Dante's Inferno. As I passed under the crossbeam of
the suspension bridge, I looked to find the motto, "All hope relinquish,
ye who enter here." It wasn't there, but instead there was a sentry on
the bridge, who, on being questioned, assured me that though there was
not much to choose in the matter of temperature between the two places,
I was still on the surface of the earth. He seemed an authority on the
subject, so I felt happier, and accepted the cup of tea offered me by
the commander of the guard.
Two hours later I was in Bunji, where I found I was to stay, and two
days after that, an officer on his way down to Kashmir passed through,
and almost the first question he asked me was, why on earth I had come
up to Gilgit. "Gilgit's played out," said he. Well, I had been asked
that question several times on my march up, so I may as well explain
that there are officially two chief causes which send men up to
Gilgit--one is debts, and the other, the Intelligence Branch. These, I
say, are the official reasons, but the real reason is the chance of a
"frontier row." In Simla they call them military expeditions. This
accounts for the last part of that young officer's speech. There seemed
no chance of a row to him, so he was going to other fields, and wondered
at my coming up. At first, the result seemed to bear him out, as within
two months he was on the war-path in Waziristan, while I was still
kicking my heels at Bunji; but luck changed later, and I laughed last.
Well, to continue, my official reason for coming to Gilgit being the
Intelligence Branch, I was ordered up to Chitral early in November for
some survey work, and thus obtained the knowledge of the route and
country that was to stand me in such good stead later on. I finished my
work in Chitral in ten days, starting back for Gilgit on the 1st
December, arriving there on the 19th. I spent Christmas in Gilgit, and
started on the 2nd January 1895 for Hunza, where I expected to remain
for the rest of the winter.
News of the murder of Nizam-ul-mulk, Mehter of Chitral, reached Gilgit
on the 7th January, and Dr. Robertson, Political Agent at Gilgit, at
once made preparations for a visit to Chitral.
Captain Townshend, who was at Gupis with Gough of the 2nd Gurkhas,
received orders to march with two hundred and fifty rifles of the 4th
Kashmir Infantry. The first detachment started under Gough, the second
following under Townshend The British Agent, Captain Campbell, and
Surgeon Captain Whitchurch, joined the second party at Ghizr, and they
all crossed the pass together. At Mastuj they picked up the remainder of
the 14th Sikhs, under Harley, who had not gone down to Gurdon at
Chitral, and then started for Chitral, arriving there on the 31st
January. Lieutenant Moberly went from Gilgit with a detachment of the
4th Kashmir Infantry and took command of Mastuj. Gough returning to
Ghizr, Baird took over command of Gupis, which was garrisoned by the 6th
Kashmir Infantry, and I was brought down from Hunza to take over Baird's
billet as staff officer. Shortly after, Fowler, R.E., was ordered to
Chitral with his Bengal Sappers, and Edwardes, 2nd Bombay Infantry, to
the same place, to take command of the Hunza Nagar Levies, which were
now called out. Baird was next ordered up to Chitral and relieved by
Stewart, R.A. On 21st February, Ross and Jones and the detachment of
14th Sikhs left Gilgit _en route_ for Mastuj. The Hunza and Nagar Levies
came in to Gilgit on the 7th March. I issued Snider carbines and twenty
rounds ammunition to each man, and they left the next day. These Levies
were splendid men, hardy, thick-set mountaineers, incapable of fatigue;
and, as a distinguishing badge, each man was provided with a strip of
red cloth which they wore in their caps, but which, we afterwards found
by practical experience at Nisa Gol, was inadequate.
[Illustration: Nizam-ul-Mulk, Mehter of Chitral.]
As news from Chitral had ceased for some days, Captain Stewart,
Assistant British Agent in Gilgit, determined to call up the 32nd
Pioneers, who were working on the Chilas road, so as to be ready for an
advance in case any forward movement was necessary. In consequence of
this order, Colonel Kelly marched into Gilgit on the 20th March with two
hundred men, Borradaile following on the 22nd with a like party.
On the 21st we heard from Mastuj that Ross's party of 14th Sikhs had
been cut up, Ross himself and some forty-six Sepoys being killed, Jones
and fourteen men alone managing to cut their way back; he and nine of
the survivors being wounded. There was no news of Edwardes and Fowler.
This news upset the apple-cart, and telegrams began to fly around, with
the result that Colonel Kelly was put in command of the troops in the
Gilgit district, with full civil powers on his line of operations. This
telegram arrived on the evening of the 22nd. The day before, Colonel
Kelly had offered me the position of staff officer to the force, and I
naturally jumped at the chance. Dew of the Guides, who was on the
sick-list, was sufficiently well to take over my work, so there was no
difficulty on that score; and as I had long had my kit ready for any
emergency, I merely bundled my remaining possessions into boxes, which I
locked up and left to look after themselves till my return.
Here I may as well describe what the force consisted of. First, there
were four hundred men of the 32nd Pioneers, commanded by Borradaile,
Colonel Kelly having taken command of the column. Bar these two, we were
all subalterns. Peterson was the senior, and commanded the second
detachment, as we were marching to Ghizr in two parties. Then there was
Bethune the adjutant, and Cobbe, and Browning-Smith the doctor--these
were all 32nd Pioneers. Captain de Vismes, 10th Bombay Infantry, came
along with us as far as Gupis, where he relieved Stewart, R.A., who, of
course, was in command of the two guns of No. 1 Kashmir Mountain
Battery. Stewart is an Irishman and the most bloodthirsty individual I
have come across. He used to complain bitterly because the Chitralis
wouldn't give us a fight every day. Then there was Luard, the Agency
Surgeon; we used to chaff him considerably during the march to Gupis, as
he turned up in a Norfolk jacket and a celluloid collar. I think he had
sent his kit on to Gupis; at any rate, after that place he dressed in
Khaki uniform like the rest of us. These were all who started from
Gilgit, so I'll introduce the others as we pick them up.