We next come to the relative merit of the various hickories of which we

know. I was fortunate in securing for the 1919 contest enough specimens

of the greater portion of those hickories which have been propagated

experimentally to a considerable extent so that some information on this

point can be given. The printed slip which I will pass around gives the

results of these tests and will give a better idea of the different nuts

than can be done in any way except by passing around samples. It will be

noted from the slip that the nuts run very close indeed and it is very

probable that another year these nuts would not show exactly the same

results for it has been clearly shown that nuts vary greatly from year

to year. There are other characteristics of hickory nuts which are of

great importance which are not shown in the annual contests. These are

the bearing records of the tree, its ability to stand various diseases

and most of all how it will work out when grown in orchard form. This

can only be told by experience. From the fact that, in the 1919 contest,

of the ten varieties of the experimentally propagated hickories there

was only a difference of five points between the highest and the lowest,

it shows that the merit of each nut is sufficient so that all of these

should be tested out in orchard form. In other words we should not for

example select the Vest and Manahan as the best that we have and

propagate them to the exclusion of the others. It is probable that there

will be great differences in the orchard behavior of these various

hickories shown as this is done and that then we shall be able to select

the most desirable varieties. Some tests made recently on nine standard

southern pecans the Schley, Burkett, Moore, Alley, Delmas, Moneymaker,

Pabst, Stuart and Vandeman show a great difference between the highest

and lowest in the number of points awarded, this difference being 10

points as against 5 in the cast of the hickories. The Hatch bitternut

and Stanley shellbark noted on this slip are here not because it is

believed that, as market nuts, they will compare with the first ten

mentioned but because they are the best nuts we now have which are not

shagbarks or of which the shagbark is not one parent. It is believed

that those nuts will be valuable for hybridizing purposes.

There is one matter suggested by the slip on which I will touch although

it is not properly within the scope of the subject set for this paper

and that is the possibilities of hickory breeding. Of the ten hickories

noted on the slip as receiving 70 to 75 points, four, it is agreed, are

hybrids. The examination which I have made of the others leads me to

believe that more of them are, but four out of ten with the possibility

of more is sufficient to cause us to take notice. There are some nine

hickory species native in the north eastern United States and they

hybridize to a considerable extent. Some of these species show most

remarkable differences in characteristics. The shagbark is unexcelled

for quality of kernel. The shellbark bears nuts as large as the largest

black walnut. The bitternut bears nuts with a thinner shell than any of

the finest southern pecans and with a larger proportion of kernel. What

we know about practical plant hybridization leads us to believe that we

can combine the good qualities of these various species of hickories.

Think of what it would mean to have hickories equal in quality of kernel

to the best shagbark, of the size of the largest black walnut with a

shell thinner than the thinnest shelled pecan we have even seen, and

with a larger proportion of kernel.

While the hickory is the nut which has given as the most trouble in

propagation and gives us the most trouble in transplanting and grows the

slowest, it is certainly difficult to find one which gives more promise

either in growing the fine hickories we now have or in breeding up

better ones. I am convinced that as soon as we can furnish the fine

hickories we now have in commercial quantities they will command prices

equal to those paid for the finest pecans.

* * * * *

THE PRESIDENT: I will call upon Mr. J. F. Jones, of Lancaster,

Pennsylvania, who has the subject of "Selecting and Handling Scions."

SELECTING AND HANDLING SCIONS

J. F. JONES, NUT SPECIALIST, LANCASTER, PENNSYLVANIA

In the selection of scions of nut trees for grafting the propagator

should keep in mind the fact that the wood selected must be full of

vitality and must be of solid, well matured growth, that will stand the

maximum amount of exposure and hardship after being grafted, as the

grafts and stocks of nut trees callous or heal very slowly in comparison

to fruit trees, and the scions must be of solid, well matured growth if

good results are to be obtained. These requirements usually go together

however and if we select scions of solid, well matured growth, we

usually get scions in which the tree has stored the maximum amount of

"starch" or vitality.

HOW TO JUDGE SCIONS

The experienced propagator of nut trees can quickly distinguish between

good and poor scions for grafting, but the beginner, not knowing the ear

marks of good scions, often fails to select the best scions for

grafting. The common mistake made by the beginner in the selection of

scions of nut trees, is in selecting the smaller growth. The smaller

growth is usually more pithy and lacking in vitality and gives poor

results in grafting. Poor scions are usually characterized by pithy wood

and a light colored, thin bark. The buds are usually farther apart than

they are on good scion wood, though this is not always true, as good

scions sometimes have the buds set well apart, except near the

terminals. The distinguishing marks of good scions are solid, well

matured growth, and a thick, dark colored bark. The buds are also larger

and usually set closer together.

WHEN TO CUT SCIONS

Scions must be cut while the tree is still dormant and, in the case of

trees that the wounds bleed when the tree is cut, as do the English and

Japan walnuts, under certain conditions, we must guard against cutting

scions soon after severe freezing weather and before the tree has fully

recuperated. This semi-sappy condition of the trees following low

temperatures that freeze the wood, seems to be a provision of nature to

restore the moisture or sap lost from evaporation, and although more

noticeable in some species of trees, notably the English walnut, this

condition undoubtedly exists in other species of trees to a greater or

less extent and we always try to avoid cutting scions of any kind soon

after hard, freezing weather. I have found scions of the English and

Japan walnuts, cut from trees in this condition, to be practically

worthless for propagation, although the scions may have been cut in late

winter, long before the sap gets up in the tree, naturally.

HANDLING AND KEEPING SCIONS

Scions of nut trees for grafting should be handled carefully to avoid

rubbing off the buds, although this is not so important with nut trees

as with fruit trees, for the reason that the more important nut trees

such as the various walnuts, pecan and hickories have compound buds and

if the larger buds should be destroyed the secondary buds may be counted

upon to grow. The scions should be tied in bunches of a convenient size

to handle and, after being well tied and carefully labeled, should be

packed in paper lined boxes that will prevent evaporation of moisture in

the parking material. Any material that will absorb and hold moisture

and that will not heat when bulked, will answer the purpose for packing

scions, but we have found sphagnum moss to be the best material for this

purpose. This material can be obtained from the local florists or

dealers in cut flowers usually. Sphagnum will absorb a good deal of

moisture without actually becoming wet and will also hold this moisture

and give it off more slowly than any other packing material with which I

am familiar. This is especially important in keeping scions of nut trees

in good condition for grafting, because, if packed too damp, the scions

are soon spoiled for grafting, even if kept at a low temperature.

As a precaution against fungi, we usually use bordeaux mixture, two

thirds standard strength, to dampen moss for packing scions, especially

if they are to remain in storage several months.

Our rule is to use moss only slightly damp to the touch and if used in

sufficient quantity, say two or three times as much bulk as we have of

scions, we find no trouble in keeping scions in perfect condition for

months. In fact, as an experiment, we have carried pecan scions in cold

storage and without re-packing for fifteen months and then get a fair

stand of grafts to grow.

We usually advise putting scions in cold storage where convenient,

especially if they are for use in late May or June, but this is not at

all necessary if the scions are packed in moss only slightly damp. In

fact scions kept in an ordinary cellar at a temperature around 50

degrees have given us better results on the average the past two years

than have those from cold storage.

* * * * *

The association adjourned until 2 p. m.

AFTERNOON SESSION, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 8, 1920, 2 P. M.

THE PRESIDENT: We very fortunately have with us a gentleman from the

Bureau of Entomology, Mr. F. E. Brooks, who will talk to us about nut

insects for a time and we will be very glad to listen to him.

MR. BROOKS: I believe your program is full for this afternoon and I

shall keep you but a few minutes.

A little more than a year ago the problem of insects affecting the nut

crop of Northern United States was assigned to me by the Bureau of

Entomology. I wish to say the work has been very delightful to me from

several standpoints. In the first place, it has brought me into

association with a delightful group of workers. I want to express to you

the pleasure I have had in meeting the various nut growers of the

northern part of this country and noting the hearty way in which they

are ready to co-operate in solving the nut insect problems. The field of

work is interesting because there appear to be in sight no insect pests

that promise to embarrass or overwhelm the nut grower. We have a few

quite serious insect problems, perhaps none more serious than that

occasioned by our old acquaintance, the "chestnut worm." That problem,

however, is being solved rapidly in many localities by the chestnut

blight.

Thus far in the work, I have devoted most of my time to a study of the

species attacking the fruit of nut trees, and I may mention three groups

that have been given special consideration. First, the group to which

the chestnut worm, or chestnut weevil, belongs. There are two very

similar species of these weevils which attack chestnuts, one which

attacks hickory nuts and pecans, one which attacks hazel nuts and

numerous species which attack acorns. The adults of these weevils are

medium-sized beetles, yellow, brown or gray in color, and all have

enormously long snouts. The mouth is located at the point of the snout

and the beetles use these snouts to bore through the covering of the

nuts after the kernel is partially or fully formed. When the puncture

into the nut is completed one or more eggs are inserted by means of an

extensile, thread-like tube, or ovipositor, of the same length as the

snout. The eggs hatch into the familiar worms found in ripe chestnuts,

hickory-nuts and hazel nuts. The large hole in the shell of the nut is

made by the full grown worm as it escapes to enter the ground, where it

completes its transformation into a beetle. An interesting thing in

connection with these weevils is that each species confine its attacks

to one particular kind of nut. Even those species that attack acorns

show a decided tendency to distinguish between oak species and confine

themselves as groups very largely to particular species or botanical

groups of oaks. There is, therefore, no danger that any of these weevils

will multiply, for example in an oak forest, and then migrate into

nearby plantations of chestnut, hickory or hazel. Hazels might be used

for interplanting among chestnut or hickory trees with no danger that

the hazel nuts would become infested by the weevils that develop in the

chestnuts or hickory nuts. This habit of the weevils is greatly to the

advantage of the person who would plant a particular kind of nut outside

its natural range, or at a considerable distance from any other trees of

its kind. He could do so with reasonable assurance that the weevil

attacking his species of nut would not occur upon his trees until

brought into the locality by artificial means.

There is another group of weevils, nearly related to the common plum

curculio, the species of which attack immature nuts. In this group the

snout is much shorter than in the group just described, and the insects

are considerably smaller. There is one species, _Conotrachelus

juglandis_, that confines its attacks to the young fruits and shoots of

walnuts of the butternut group, another, _Conotrachelus retentus_, that

seems to attack exclusively the black walnut fruits from the time they

set until they are half grown, still another, _Conotrachelus affinis_,

that appears to attack only half-grown hickory nuts. Another species,

_Conotrachelus aratus_, feeds abundantly in some localities within the

leaf petioles of hickory. At least two other species of the group

commonly attack acorns. Those injuring walnuts lay their eggs on the

concave side of crescent-shaped punctures which they eat in the husks of

the young nuts. The larvae developing from the eggs cause the nuts to

drop within a few weeks and the larvae enter the ground to complete

their transformation. There is a divided tendency with some of these

species to attack the young wood and leaf stems of the introduced

species of walnut. Dr. Morris states that he has had young Japanese

walnut trees killed by _C. juglandis_ feeding in the grub stage within

the branches. He has, however, found that the pest succumbs to an

arsenate of lead spray.

Species of this group are apt to have alternating periods of increase

and decrease and a year of great abundance may be followed by a year of

comparative scarcity. This variation is due, at least in part, to the

fact that the larvae, as they feed within the tissues of their host

plants, often become rather heavily parasitized by certain two-winged

and four-winged flies, the parasitized larvae dying before they reach

the adult stage. Nature in this way does considerable toward holding the

pests in check, but artificial means of control will often need to be

considered.

The third group referred to is represented by a two-winged fly, about

the size of the common house fly, known technically as _Rhagoletis

suavis_, and commonly as the walnut husk-maggot. The fly is light brown

in color, with broad, irregular, dark brown bands on the wings. It

appears when walnuts are nearly grown and deposits clusters of small,

white eggs within punctures in the husks. Maggots hatch from the eggs

and at the time the walnuts drop these maggots are often found

converting the inner parts of the husk into a blackened, pulpy mass.

Infested nuts are disagreeable to handle and the husk does not part

readily from the shell. I have found the fly attacking black walnuts,

butternuts, Persian walnuts and Japanese walnuts, within the states of

West Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio, New York, Connecticut and

Massachusetts. It probably occurs over the natural range of the black

walnut and butternut. It is proving to be a rather serious pest,

especially of the Persian walnut. Some of the infested walnuts appear to

drop prematurely and others adhere to the branches beyond the regular

harvest time. The shell of infested Persian walnuts parts poorly from

the husk and the nut is discolored, soiled and unmarketable.

The fly has rather interesting habits. I found that by pricking a nearly

mature black walnut with a pin, the wounds would almost invariably be

used in a little while by the female flies for depositing their eggs. In

one such wound, 180 eggs were laid within 24 hours. When the husk was

pricked a slight flow of juice would take place and the male flies would

soon find the spot, and, recognizing, I suppose, a suitable place for

the females to come to oviposit, they would stand guard at the puncture

awaiting the coming of the female. On one occasion I made minute

punctures in the husk of eight black walnuts and in a little while a

male fly was located at each puncture. Pairing took place usually as

soon as the female came and began to lay eggs. Sometimes a male would be

found at a puncture in the early morning and would hold its position

against all coming males throughout the entire day. When another male

would come to the nut the two flies would rear up facing each other and

engage in a brief sparring bout with their front legs. Usually, the

original occupant of the nut would be the victor. In some experimental

spraying of Persian walnut trees in Maryland and Pennsylvania the past

season with a sweetened arsenate of lead spray apparently good results

were obtained. In one case it seemed that the spraying was about 75 per

cent efficient in controlling the pest. In in another case, whereas last

year 75 nuts in 100 were infested, this year, after spraying only four

nuts in 100 contained the maggots at harvest time.

I desire to state to the nut growers that I am interested in any nut

insect problems that you may encounter and shall always be glad to

receive reports and specimens. Your co-operation in this work is greatly

appreciated and I hope we may continue to work together and that before

long we may have more definite knowledge of the means of preventing, to

some extent at least, the various forms of injury by insects to the nut

crop.

* * * * *

MR. RUSH: I cannot help but express a word of gratitude and appreciation

to my friend Mr. Brooks in helping me out of a serious difficulty that I

had in connection with walnut culture at Lancaster. A year ago I was

ready to throw up the sponge. In fact I might say that my whole crop

last year was destroyed by this husk-maggot. This year I have a very

fine crop. Last year it was practically worthless. This year I have very

few walnuts that were affected by the maggots, largely owing to the

successful spraying that he gave the trees at the proper time. I think

the future has a bright prospect for making walnut culture more

profitable.

THE PRESIDENT: We are certainly under obligations for the very

interesting talk and glad that Mr. Brooks could be with us.

The first thing on the program for the afternoon session, according to

the published program, I know will be of a most interesting character,

Top-Working Hickories, by Robert T. Morris.

TOP WORKING HICKORIES

ROBERT T. MORRIS, NEW YORK

At the present time when our views on the subject of top working trees

are based upon incomplete knowledge and experience perhaps it is unwise

to present a paper upon the subject which might be taken as

authoritative. On the other hand my experience to date is worth

recording for its face value, subject to change of view subsequently.

Different species of hickory act differently when subjected to top

working methods. The bitternut may be cut back severely without giving

evidence of any great degree of shock. The shagbark on the contrary

makes slow recovery and many years are required for a cut-back shagbark

hickory to regain normal equilibrium between top and root. The pignut

and mockernut apparently stand midway between the bitternut and the

shagbark in respect to the trimming of the top. My experience with

shagbark includes the top working of trees ranging from a few inches in

diameter up to fifteen or twenty inches in diameter, and the cutting

back has included all stages from actual felling of the tree to cutting

off half of the top or less than half of the top. The idea of felling

trees completely was to graft stump sprouts or to insert the slot bark

graft into the stump near the ground. When this has been done the larger

hickories do not send up stump sprouts at all and the root dies

excepting in cases in which a slot bark graft has been introduced. The

graft grows slowly without a great degree of vigor and requires so many

years for balancing the root that the method has not been practical up

to the present time. The same statement is true of the shagbark hickory

which has been trimmed back very severely leaving nothing but the stubs

of large branches to be grafted immediately or for the purpose of

grafting sprouts in the following year. The bark of the shagbark hickory

is so hard that new shoots are choked severely and many years are

required before they have a secure hold upon the stock. My final

conclusion is that we may cut shagbark limbs having a diameter of three

inches or less for the purpose of leaving grafting stubs. If a large

number of grafts are inserted in such a topworked tree or in stock

sprouts which start and are grafted in the following year the work is

successful. In order to avoid the labor of topworking a large shagbark

tree in its entirety we may graft only one or two limbs and allow stock

sprouts to grow on other limbs until both stock sprouts and graft

sprouts have become well branched. Branches carrying stock sprouts may

then be removed a few at a time year after year, leaving the graft

sprouts in charge finally.

By means of the bark slot method of grafting grafts may be inserted in

any part of a hickory tree. The bark slot method consists in using a

chisel and mallet for cutting parallel lines the width of the scion in

the bark of the stock. The tongue of bark between the parallel lines is

pried outward with the point of the chisel until the scion has been

inserted next the wood and the tongue of bark is then allowed to return

to place, leaving the scion interposed between the tongue of bark and

the wood. Rules which apply to the shagbark may be applied to all of the

hickories with which I have experimented. When cutting back the limbs in

preparation for topworking it is well to leave as many as possible of

stubs or branches of small diameter. Branches of small diameter may be

grafted by ordinary cleft grafting methods but branches of larger

diameter should be treated by the bark slot method. At the present time

and in the locality of my country place at Stamford, Connecticut, melted

paraffin suffices in place of grafting wax and melted paraffin is

brushed over the entire scion, buds and all, as well as over the wound

in the stock.

The time for cutting back hickories in preparation for topworking is

probably important and in my experience to date, autumn cutting is

preferable. The reason is that a good deal of activity is going on in

the tree before it enters into a state of winter rest and wounds are

pretty well repaired. In winter cutting there is some danger of

incomplete repair and in the springtime the free flow of sap invites the

entrance of various enemies, bacterial and fungous. Summer cutting

according to the laws of plant physiology would cause more shock to the

tree than cutting at any other time, although practically I have done

this successfully. Without regard to season for cutting in preparation

for topworking it is very important to trim cut ends very smoothly with

a sharp knife in order to remove ragged tissue left by the saw. It is

difficult to persuade employees to do this and it will not be done as a

rule unless the owner looks after the matter personally. The smoothly

trimmed end of the cut branch should immediately be protected with white

paint, melted paraffin, or some other protective covering.

What are the disadvantages of the slot bark method of topworking

hickories? The scion does not have such a secure hold upon the stock as

it does in cleft grafting and it will blow out in a high wind unless it

is protected by braces. I have found it not harmful to a tree to fasten

laths to the stock for holding the growing scion, driving galvanized

iron nails through the lath directly into the stock. Unless growing

grafts are well braced by some method the entire season's work may be

lost in two minutes of a gale preceding a thunderstorm in summer. By the

slot bark method, in other words, we may catch more grafts and lose more

grafts than by any other method with which I am familiar, but the loss

may be avoided by proper attention.

Northern Nut Growers Association Report of the Proceedings at the Eleventh Annual Meeting Washington, D. C. October 7 and 8, 1920 · 第 9 / 12 段