hand-roll v.
[from obs. mainstream slang `hand-rolled' in opposition to
`ready-made', referring to cigarettes] To perform a normally
automated software installation or configuration process by hand; implies that the normal
process failed due to bugs in the configurator or was defeated by
something exceptional in the local environment. "The worst thing
about being a gateway between four different nets is having to
hand-roll a new sendmail configuration every time any of them
upgrades."