THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid

the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A

favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water

in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my

baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who

came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and

set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the

hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it

proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After

changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the

Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on

trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and

descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed

under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is

narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one

place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must

say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a

tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much

is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit

might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of

the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the

Falls alone by moonlight.

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