Moosehead Lake.—The River Kennebeck.
Portland. August.
Moosehead Lake is the largest and the wildest in New England. It lies in
the central portion of the State of Maine, and distant from the ocean
near one hundred and fifty miles. Its length is fifty miles, and its
width from five to fifteen. It is embosomed among a brotherhood of
mountains, whose highest peak has been christened with the beautiful
name of Katahden. All of them, from base to summit, are covered with a
dense forest, in which the pine is by far the most abundant. It is the
grand centre of the only wilderness region in New England, whose
principal denizens are wild beasts. During the summer months, its
tranquil waters remain in unbroken solitude, unless some scenery-hunting
pilgrim, like myself, should happen to steal along its shores in his
birchen canoe. But in the winter the case is very different, for then,
all along its borders, may be heard the sound of the axe, wielded by a
thousand men. Then it is that an immense quantity of logs are cut, to be
manufactured into lumber at the extensive mills down the Kennebeck,
which is the only outlet to the lake.
A winter at Moosehead must be attended with much that is rare, and wild,
and exciting, not only to the wealthy proprietor who has a hundred men
to superintend, but even to the toiling chopper. Look at a single
specimen of the gladdening scenes enacted in that forest world. It is an
awful night, the winds wailing, the snow falling, and the forests making
a moan. Before you is a spacious, but rudely built log cabin, almost
covered with snow. But now, above the shriek of the storm, and the howl
of the wolf, you hear a long, loud shout, from a score of human mouths.
You enter the cabin, and lo, a merry band of noble men, some lying on a
buffalo-robe, and some seated on a log, while the huge fire before them
reveals every feature and wrinkle of their countenances, and makes a
picture of the richest colouring. Now the call is for a song, and a
young man sings a song of Scotland, which is his native land; a mug of
cider then goes round, after which an old pioneer clears his throat for
a hunting legend of the times of old; now the cunning jest is heard; and
peals of hearty laughter shake the building; and now a soul-stirring
speech is delivered in favour of Henry Clay. The fire-place is again
replenished, when with a happy and contented mind each woodman retires
to his couch, to sleep, and to dream of his wife and children, or of the
buxom damsel whom he loves.
The number of logs which these men cut in a single winter is almost
incredible, and the business of conveying them to the lake upon the snow
gives employment to a great many additional men and their oxen. The
consequence is, that large quantities of flour, potatoes, pork, and hay,
are consumed; and as these things are mostly supplied by the farmers of
the Kennebeck, winter is the busiest season of the year throughout the
region. When the lake is released from its icy fetters in the spring, a
new feature of the logging business comes into operation, which is
called rafting. A large raft contains about eighteen thousand logs, and
covers a space of some ten acres. In towing them to the Kennebeck, a
small steam-boat is employed, which, when seen from the summit of a
hill, looks like a living creature struggling with a mighty incubus. But
the most picturesque thing connected with this business is a floating
log-cabin, called a Raft House, which ever attends a raft on its way to
the river. During the summer, as before stated, Moosehead Lake is a
perfect solitude, for the “log chopper” has become a “log driver” on the
Kennebeck,—the little steamer being moored in its sheltering bay, near
the tavern at the south end of the lake, and the toiling oxen having
been permitted to enjoy their summer sabbath on the farm of their
master.
The islands of Moosehead Lake, of any size, are only four; Moose and
Deer Islands at the southern extremity, Sugar Island in the large
eastern bay, and Farm Island in a north-western direction from that. All
of these are covered with beautiful groves, but the time is not far
distant when they will be cultivated farms. Trout are the principal fish
that flourish in its waters, and may be caught at any time in great
abundance. And thereby hangs a fish story.
It was the sunset hour, and with one of my companions I had gone to a
rocky ledge for the purpose of trying my luck. My bait was squirrel
meat, and I was the first to throw the line. It had hardly reached the
water, before I had the pleasure of striking and securing a two pound
trout. This threw my friend into a perfect fever of excitement, so that
he was exceedingly slow in cutting up the squirrels; and it may be
readily supposed that I was somewhat excited myself; so I “grabbed” the
animal out of his hands, and in less than a “jiffy,” and with my teeth,
made a number of good baits. The conclusion of the whole matter was,
that in less than forty minutes we had caught nearly seventy pounds of
salmon trout. But the fish of Moosehead are not to be compared with
those of Horicon in point of delicacy, though they are very large, and
very abundant. The reason of this is, that its waters are not remarkably
clear, and a good deal of its bottom is muddy. Moose River, which is the
principal tributary of the Lake, is a narrow, deep, and picturesque
stream, where may be caught the common trout, weighing from one to five
pounds.
In this portion of Maine every variety of forest game may be found, but
the principal kinds are the grey wolf, the black bear, the deer, and the
moose. Winter is the appropriate season for their capture, when they
afford a deal of sport to the hunter, and furnish a variety of food to
the forest labourers. Deer are so very plentiful, that a certain
resident told me, that, in the deep snow of last winter, he caught some
dozen of them alive, and having cut a slit in their ears, let them go,
that they might recount to their kindred their marvellous escape. But
the homeliest animal, the most abundant, and the best for eating, is the
moose. I did not kill one, but spent a night with an old hunter who did.
During the warm summer nights these animals, for the purpose of getting
clear of the black-fly, are in the habit of taking to the water, where,
with nothing but their heads in sight, they remain for hours. It was the
evening of one of those cloudless nights, whose memory can never die. We
were alone far up the Moose River, and it seemed to me, “we were the
first that ever burst into that forest sea.” Embarked on board a
swan-like canoe, and with our rifles ready, we carefully and silently
descended the stream. How can I describe the lovely pictures that we
passed? Now we peered into a dark recess in the centre of a group of
elms, where unnumbered fire-flies were revelling in joy;—and now a
solitary duck shot out into the stream from its hidden home, behind a
fallen and decayed tree; now we watched the stars mirrored in the
sleeping waves, and now we listened to the hoot of the owl, the drum of
the partridge, the song of a distant waterfall, or the leap of a
robber-trout. It was not far from midnight when my companion whispered,
“Hush, hush!” and pointed to a dim spot some hundred yards below. The
first chance was allotted me, so I took the best aim I could, and fired.
I heard the ball skip along the water, and on coming near, found my mark
to be only a smooth rock. Two hours more passed on, one small moose was
killed, and at day-break we were in our cabin fast asleep.
The principal outlet to Moosehead Lake is the Kennebeck, which “now
demands my song.” It is the second river in Maine, and one of the most
beautiful I have ever seen. Instead of watering a wilderness, as I had
supposed, all along its valley for over a hundred miles are fertile and
extensive farms, with here and there a thriving village, inhabited by an
intelligent and industrious people. Its principal tributary is Dead
River, and the spot at the junction of the two is called the Forks. The
cultivated region stops here, and between this point and Moosehead, the
distance is about twenty-five miles, which is yet a forest wilderness.
The principal attraction at the Forks is a tavern kept by one Burnham,
who is a capital fellow to guide the lover of Nature or the trout
fisherman to Moxy Fall and Nameless Lake, which are in the immediate
vicinity. The mountains about here are very lofty, and exceedingly
picturesque, abounding in the maple, the oak, the pine, and hemlock.
Emptying into the Kennebeck, a few miles north of the Forks, is a superb
mountain-stream, named Moxy, after an Indian who was drowned there many
years ago. Winding for a long distance among rocky ravines, and
eternally singing to the woods a trumpet-song, it finally makes a sudden
plunge into a chasm more than a hundred feet in depth. The perpendicular
rocks on either side rise to an immense height, their tops crowned with
a “peculiar diadem of trees,” and their crevices filled up with
dark-green verdure, whence occasionally issues, hanging gracefully in
the air, beautiful festoons of the ivy, and clusters of the mountain
blue-bell. The depth of the pool was never told, and its waters wash
against the granite walls in a perpetual gloom. On one occasion I
visited it when there was a high freshet, and saw what I could hardly
have believed from a description. I stood on an elevated point in front
of the Fall, when my eyes rested upon an immense log, some sixty feet
long, coming down the foaming stream with all the fury of a maddened
steed; presently it reached the precipice,—then cleaved its airy pathway
into the hell of waters,—was completely out of sight for three minutes,
then, like a creature endowed with life, shot upward again entirely out
of the water, made another less desperate plunge, and quietly pursued
its course into the Kennebeck.
In speaking of the Nameless Lake, it is necessary that I should be a
little egotistical. It is a fairy-like sheet of pure water in the heart
of the mountain wilderness, only about a mile in length, but full of
trout. The proprietor was of the party that accompanied me on my first
visit. While approaching it, the remark was made, that it was yet
without a name; when it was agreed that it should be christened after
that individual, who should on that day throw the most successful fly.
As fortune would have it, the honour was awarded to me; and on a
guide-board in the forest, three miles from Burnham’s, may be seen the
figure of a hand, and the words “Lake Lanman.” There stands my written
name, exposed “to the peltings of the pitiless storm;” and in a few
years, at the longest, it will be washed away, and the tree which
supports it mingling with the dust. Will it be even thus with the memory
of name?
Not to attempt a description of the scenery of the Kennebeck, which
could be only faithfully given by the pictures of an artist, I will take
my reader down its beautiful valley, and tell him what I know respecting
its beautiful villages.
The first in order is Bingham, situated on a fertile “interval,”
surrounded with picturesque hills, charming and quiet as a summer day,
and containing within the jurisdiction of its town an uncommonly fine
farm, belonging to a Mr. Parlin, who manufactures large quantities of
maple sugar.
Solon is the next village in the Kennebeck valley, remarkable for
nothing but Caritunk Falls, which are twenty feet high, and run through
a gorge fifty feet wide. Here I saw some twenty men “driving” the logs
that had been lodged all along the river when it was low. It is a
laborious life which these men lead, but they receive good pay, and meet
with many interesting adventures. They generally have the soul to enjoy
fine scenery, and therefore demand the respect of the intelligent
traveller.
Anson, though in the valley of the Kennebeck, is situated on Seven Mile
Brook, and is a flourishing business place. From its neighbouring hills
may be seen the sky-piercing peaks of Mount Blue, Saddleback, Bigelow,
and Mount Abraham, which are the guardian spirits of Maine. The town is
distinguished for its agricultural enterprise, and the abundance of its
wheat, having actually produced more than is reported from any other
town in the State.
Norridgwock, so named by the Kennebeck Indians, because, when fighting
with their enemies at this place, they could find _no-ridge-to-walk_
upon, which was a desirable object. It is a charming little village, and
associated with a celebrated Indian Chief named Bomazeen, and also with
a Jesuit Missionary, whose name I do not remember. Not far from here is
a picturesque fall, also a picturesque bend of the Kennebeck, where
empties Sandy River, upon which are many extensive farms.
Skowhegan is a thriving village, where there are fine falls, which I
never could look upon without thinking of the famous Glen’s Falls in New
York, of which they are a complete counterpart, though on a smaller
scale. Many and very dear to me are my recollections of its “choice
bits” of scenery, of the fine singing I there heard, of the
acquaintances there formed, and of the pleasant literary communings
which were mine in company with one of the best and most intellectual of
women, who has for many years been my “guide, counsellor, and friend.”
Waterville, the next town on the river, is the seat of a Baptist
College, and the head of navigation on account of the Ticonic Falls. It
is the centre of an extensive farming district, which fact, together
with the literary taste of its people, makes it an interesting place.
Augusta, the capital of the State, is also on the Kennebeck, and with
its State House and other State buildings, its admirably conducted
hotels, its commanding churches, its large bridge, and pleasant
residences, is one of the most picturesque and interesting towns in the
whole of New England.
Hallowell, two miles below Augusta, was once a great place of business,
and is still a very pleasant place, though unable to compete with its
rival the Capital. In my mind, it is chiefly associated with some fine
people, and particularly with three beautiful sisters, who are great
lovers of poetry and fine musicians.
Gardiner, further down, is a tremendous place for saw-mills; and
lumbering I look upon as one of the surest kinds of business. It
contains the handsomest church-building in the State, and a number of
fine residences belonging to its wealthy citizens, of which that one
belonging to Mr. Gardiner (after whom the place was named), is the most
elegant.
Bath is the next and most southern town on the Kennebeck; it is a large
place, where there is a great deal of shipping done, and now in a
flourishing condition. The sail down the river from here is a most
delightful one, for the eye revels on a continual succession of pleasant
farms, quiet headlands, solitary islands, and vessels of every kind
passing up and down the stream. Even to the present day, the Kennebeck
abounds in salmon, which are caught with nets from the first of May till
midsummer. To take them with the hook is indeed rare sport, and for the
manner in which I conquered a solitary individual I refer my reader to a
certain passage in “Scrope on Salmon Fishing.” Few are the rivers that I
love more than the Kennebeck, and very dear to me are its manifold
associations.
I date this chapter from Portland, which is a thriving city of twenty
thousand inhabitants, and interesting to the admirers of genius, because
it is the native place of Mrs. Seba Smith, the poet Longfellow, and John
Neal.