Departure for the Kong Mountains--My Dahoman Guards and their
several Duties--The King’s Wife--Neighbouring Krooms--Soil and
Aspect of the Country--Varied Scenery--Cana--Bobay--Illness of
my Servant--Immense Blocks of Granite--Custom-house--Duties
imposed--Milder Laws established--Dtheno--Travelling Traders--The
Azowah--Destruction of the Shea Butter-tree--Its Manufacture declared
to be lawful--Description of this Tree--Immense Mountains--Ruins
of Managlwa--Destruction of that Town by the Dahomans--Beautiful
Scenery--Markets--Setta Dean--Reception by the Caboceer--Dance
performed by him--Setta--Serenade--Supply of Provisions--Custom of
Tasting--The Caboceer’s Speech--The Natives expert as Cooks--Variety
of Food--Palm Oil--Occro--Presents from the Caboceer--The Widow’s
Mite--Harmless Deception--Presents to the Natives--Dance performed by
the Soldiers--Situation of Setta; its Soil, &c.--Its Population.
July 9th.--According to a previous arrangement with his Majesty
respecting my journey to the Kong Mountains, which are situated in the
Mahee country, at an early hour this morning I was awoke by the sound
of drums and horns from a band assembled in my court-yard. My good
old friend Mayho entered my apartment soon after, announcing that my
guard was all ready for the march. Upon this, I made preparations for
getting my own people ready as quickly as possible. This was no easy
task, for the African is naturally slow and indolent, and my people,
moreover, were principally people from Whydah, who, like most of their
race, are great cowards when at any distance from their own country;
more especially were they so on this occasion, as they knew I was going
through the Mahee country, the inhabitants of which were known to be a
fierce and warlike people. However, after some considerable delay and
grumbling, I got myself and party ready; but even then several of the
lazy fellows raised an objection to proceeding, alleging that their
loads were not well proportioned. Upon using the horsewhip, however,
pretty sharply amongst them, I enforced obedience.
The captain of my guard begged me not to trouble myself to punish the
men, telling me that I had merely to point out any individual who
might show any inclination to disobedience or misconduct, and he would
punish him severely. He said he was well acquainted with the character
of the Whydah people; “Besides,” he observed, “the King had given him
strict orders to watch them narrowly, on account of their thievish
propensities.” This being said in the presence of all the Whydah people
seemed to take them much aback; but it had an excellent effect, as
all my orders were given through the captain of my guard. They were
also aware that in Dahomey theft is punishable with death. After Mayho
had fallen in, and inspected the guard, I was desired to parade them
myself, which, to satisfy myself of the efficiency of the men and their
equipments, as well as to see their store of ammunition, I did.
My guard I found consisted of a hundred picked men, who had all been
through the late wars in that part of the Kong Mountains which I was
now about to visit. This arrangement was made with a view to give me
every information respecting the country we might pass through. After
my inspection, Mayho, as well as the officers, seemed much gratified to
find that every thing was to my entire satisfaction. Mayho next called
out all the officers and petty officers of my guard, explaining the
several duties of the various ranks. Amongst them were two whose duties
were of a very peculiar nature. The first was a caboceer, a man of
great trust, and a native of the Mahee country, through which I should
pass. He was selected on account of his superior knowledge of that
country. His instructions were to walk in advance of my horse’s head,
not more than five yards, so as to be near me, to answer any inquiry I
might make respecting the country. His duty was also to point out, by
striking with a stick, any obstacle in the narrow paths[20] along which
we should pass, so as to prevent my horse stumbling.
The next person who was introduced had the rank or title of the _King’s
Wife_. This rank seemed to me to be very absurd, for the individual was
an uncommonly fine young man. I was soon made aware on what account
this title was given, and its nature. Mayho explained to me that a
certain number of men, the most trust-worthy, were selected from the
King’s household to accompany different divisions of the army when on
any particular expedition. These men are called King’s wives on account
of the reliance and trust placed in them. Their duty is to report,
by private messenger to the King, any misconduct or neglect of the
superior officers; but in this instance, his orders were to receive any
report or complaint I might have to advance against my captain, or any
caboceer or chief in any of the towns through which I might pass. In
the event of my making any complaint, a messenger, who is also sworn,
is despatched to head-quarters, to report it to the King.
His Majesty had given orders that as soon as I was quite ready to
march, a messenger, who was in waiting, should be despatched to the
palace to inform him. The messenger, upon his return, communicated the
King’s desire that I should remain a few minutes longer, when, to my
surprise, another messenger arrived with two more heads of cowries and
a keg of rum, although he had already furnished me with a good supply.
The King had made arrangements that, upon my passing through my own
gate to commence the march, one gun was to be fired as a warning; upon
which, twenty-one guns of heavy ordnance were fired in succession,
accompanied with a continuous rattle of small arms, my band striking
up. One half of my guard marched behind me, the other in front. Thus we
marched for the Kong Mountains. Mayho, and several more of the King’s
household and principal caboceers, as well as many of the principal
traders and merchants of the town of Abomey, accompanied me about a
mile on the road, all of whom seemed to evince a lively interest in
my safety and success. After passing through the gates of the town,
my friends halted, and gave me a hearty shake of the hand, wishing me
every success. They then returned, and I resumed my journey.
The path, after leaving the gates of the town a few yards, turns short
from S.E. to N., and passes through beautifully cultivated fields of
corn of various sorts, as well as many different sorts of beans and
peas. Many sorts of ground beans are also cultivated here, some of the
size and shape of a large marble, and of a delicious flavour, commonly
used by the natives in soups and stews, as well as separately. This
scene was truly beautiful, the corn full six feet in height, with
beautiful white and red flowers about a foot in height, so numerous
that at a little distance the ground appeared a continuous bed of
flowers. At short distances were many small but neat krooms, from which
issued the sable inhabitants to get a sight of the King’s stranger, as
they termed me. Many of the most courageous came close to the path to
pay respect to me. I cannot express the delight I now felt, to find
myself, after all my disappointments, marchings and countermarchings,
fairly on the road to the far-famed Mountains of Kong, and under such
favourable auspices, more especially after the King of Ashantee had
refused to let me pass through his country for the purpose.
After marching seven and a half miles through the sort of country I
have described, a large town, bearing N.W., was pointed out to me,
distant two miles from the path. My principal guide informed me that
several markets were held there, as well as a market kept close to the
path, where provisions ready cooked, as well as peto, are sold for
the accommodation of travellers. At eight miles we found ironstone in
a fused state. The soil now changed from a red or brown colour to a
rich black loam, still well cultivated, in drills,--a convincing proof
of the advantages derived from the instruction of many of the returned
slaves from the Brazils. Here some of the stalks of corn measured seven
and eight feet in height. Rice is also grown here to a considerable
extent, and, like some other kinds of grain, gives four crops in twelve
moons, or twelve months, as stated by the natives.
After marching eleven miles, we passed over low hills running in a
range from N.W. to S.E. as far as the eye could reach, the sight of
which was gratifying and refreshing to me, having been now so long
used to the same dull, level country. On reaching the top of these
hills, though low in comparison with our Scottish mountains, I felt as
if released from confinement. We halted for a few minutes to take the
bearing of some objects, which my guide pointed out as close to the
path, several miles ahead. On looking round, and contemplating the rich
and varied scenery, peculiar colour of the sky, and singularly formed
clouds, like those of northern latitudes, my thoughts involuntarily
stole back for a moment to old Albion, and I compared the scene now
before me with my early recollections of home. No sound of the creaking
wain or clattering axle, no voice of the ploughboy guiding his team,
broke upon the ear, nor clean farmhouse on mountain side--all around
me was silent as death; and although I was on the highest eminence
of these hills, not a bough or leaf was in motion--no bird of any
description was to be seen or heard. All was silent as the grave. Every
thing of animal life seemed glad to conceal itself in the shade until
the decline of the sun.
We again resumed the march, and at twelve miles the path to Cana
branched off to the right. Cana is the first large town on the main
road from Abomey to Whydah. After a short journey from the above place,
we arrived at a romantic little kroom, surrounded by large and splendid
trees and beautiful shrubs. The market-place in front of the town was
completely shaded from the oppressive rays of the sun. Here we found
waiting for us some of our luggage-carriers, who had been sent on in
advance. My Whydah men seemed quite fatigued, although their load was
light in comparison to the size of the men; while on the contrary, the
women carriers belonging to the principal officers of my guard were
quite fresh and full of joke, apparently quite delighted with their
journey.
After we had seated ourselves in the market-place, provisions in
abundance were placed before us, with plenty of water and peto. Here I
was visited by all the head men and women of the kroom, who declared
themselves highly gratified at having the honour of entertaining the
King’s stranger. This kroom is named Bobay, and stands on a gentle
rise, and is of very picturesque appearance, and very clean.
After remaining about an hour in Bobay we recommenced our journey.
The path was now very narrow, and was nearly closed in with shrubs on
each side. After leaving this kroom about half a mile the road became
clearer. At this place we met a small caravan, or trading party,
proceeding in an opposite direction to ourselves. They seemed very
much surprised at seeing me, as well as my white man, who, with all
his boasting, seemed now quite exhausted. I therefore dismounted and
allowed him to take my horse to enable him to get along. We were now on
the summit of the hilly ground, which had been on the rise ever since
we left the kroom. The scene and country again became open and very
interesting, with a beautiful valley about two miles to the northward,
and on the opposite side of the valley a low range of hills running
from S.W. to N.E. The path now, at thirteen miles and a half, changed
from E.N.E. to N. 30° towards E.; and in the bottom of the valley was
a beautifully romantic glen-stream running to the westward, overhung
with many parasitical plants. The sound of the water falling over one
block of granite after another had a pleasing effect as it burst upon
my lonely ear, long unaccustomed to such pleasing music of early days
in my own native Scottish glens.
I could not help stopping a minute to gaze on the scene now before
me. I may be excused for confessing that all my boyish feelings
seemed to rush around me, and for a moment to overwhelm my heart. It
was but momentary, however, and perhaps it is well that the mind of
the traveller becomes hardened, otherwise he would be unfit for the
performance of his arduous duty.
After passing a short distance farther through the bush, composed
chiefly of the shea butter-tree, as well as the male and female palm,
with many other shrubs of the laurel species, we again came upon an
open plain, with the exception of a few clumps here and there sprinkled
over the surface, giving it the appearance of a gentleman’s park in
England, were it not for the length and rankness of the grass, which
is here never less than three or four feet. Mountains richly wooded
now broke upon the view, bearing E.N.E., and about eight hundred feet
high, with here and there immense blocks of granite, showing their
crowns above some of the tallest trees. The soil here, at fifteen
miles, changed, and I observed small blocks or boulders of granite
and whinstone, with a thin stratum of sandy clay of a drab colour. At
nineteen miles the path again changed to N.E., and at twenty miles we
came upon the small kroom of Dtheno, through which the path runs.
In this kroom is a custom-house for collecting the duties upon all
goods carried through it, from whatever part they come. The heaviest
duties are imposed upon tobacco and rum, which are brought from the
coast in great quantities: these goods are chiefly of Brazilian and
American manufacture. The rum is invariably of a very bad quality. A
small duty is also imposed upon all regular traders, even on articles
of native growth or manufacture. This is imposed upon the trader
instead of license, and is considered more fair to the trader; for
should he not sell his goods he has not the duty to pay; but, on the
other hand, if he has a good trade, he can afford to pay the low
rates of duty. These custom-house establishments are invariably the
property of some one of the King of Dahomey’s ministers, as well as
all the duties collected at such establishments. They are established
in all the most convenient parts of certain districts, by the same
rule as our turnpike-gates in England, so that every person must pass
through them. These customs are bestowed by the King as the rewards of
conquest upon his caboceers,--each of his Majesty’s cabinet ministers,
or caboceers, having an array of his own; and when a war takes place,
and the Dahomans prove victorious, the town taken is considered as
belonging to the minister or caboceer whose soldiers capture the
town; or rather, his right of monopolizing the trade of the town is
established, so far as to supply it himself with all goods of British
manufacture or produce, with the exception of such traders as have
obtained permits as a proof of their having paid the duty. The trade
is entrusted to the most confidential or head men belonging to the
caboceer owning the trade. I found them invariably clever, intelligent,
and generous people. The King also imposes upon each caboceer a slight
duty, according to the amount of their trade.
I ought also to mention that in many instances during the late wars
between the Mahees and the Dahomans, when any of the caboceers of the
former surrendered their towns without fighting, the King of Dahomey
allowed them to retain their own trade unmolested, and at the same
time reduced the duties to the same scale as the Dahomans themselves,
and also after a time supplied their soldiers with fire-arms, having
previously no arms but bows and arrows. The King of Dahomey commands
the whole of the European trade from the coast.
I was very much pleased to find that the King had established much
better and milder laws than existed formerly. These are of an
European character, with which the generality of the natives seem
very well satisfied. This custom-house and kroom belonged to Mayho,
prime minister of the King of Dahomey. I always found him to be a
man of great talent and benevolence. Arrangements had, doubtless,
been previously made, so that at this place, Dtheno, we again found
abundance of refreshment, such as plenty of kankie and peto, for myself
and soldiers, with good water. For myself and private servants, as well
as the principal officers of my guard, abundance of roast and stewed
fowls, Muscovy ducks, and Guinea fowls, were provided.
At this place we found numerous traders from different parts of the
country, resting their carriers until their several duties were paid
and permits obtained. The duties are either paid in kind or cowries.
After remaining about three-quarters of an hour under the shade of some
trees of gigantic size, both with regard to trunk, limb, and leaf,
during which time the usual civilities of prostration and throwing dust
over the head were performed, as acknowledging my superiority, and
their own obedience to the King’s English stranger, and distributing
some Jew’s-harps, needles, and thimbles, we bade our generous hosts
farewell, amidst assurances of their pleasure and satisfaction at
seeing me, and faithful promise to treat me even better should I ever
again favour them with a visit.
At twenty-three miles we crossed a small stream, called Azowah,
running from east to west, the bed consisting of blocks of granite of
irregular form and size. The trees here were stunted and scrubby, owing
to the annual burning of the grass, which is done partly with a view
of consuming the decayed vegetable matter, and partly to destroy the
vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree. The destruction of this tree
is a suggestion of the Spanish and Portuguese slave-dealers, the shea
butter having formerly been a considerable article of trade amongst
the natives, and it was feared would become one of European trade, and
tend to attract the attention of the natives to its manufacture to the
injury of the slave-trade. The slave-dealers of Whydah consequently
made interest with the King of Dahomey to impose a heavy duty upon the
shea butter exposed in the markets for sale. Still the demand of the
natives was so great for this article, that even the duty imposed did
not discourage them from the manufacture of it, till this duty was
doubled. This imposition being too heavy, caused the poor natives to
establish a system of smuggling, and, with a view to abolish smuggling,
strict orders were issued to burn every tree in the kingdom of Dahomey,
as well as those of the Mahee country subject to the King of Dahomey.
Still, with all the burning, vegetation is so rapid and powerful, that
much of the above article is still produced. In consequence of the
manufacture being declared illegal, numerous petitions were presented
to his Majesty, or rather verbally conveyed to him, declaring the
medical properties of the shea butter, and its beneficial use as an
ointment, as well as a stomachic tonic; and his Majesty, with his
exemplary goodness of heart, notwithstanding the solicitations of
the most influential slave-dealers, declared the manufacture of a
certain quantity (sufficient for the above-named purpose) to be lawful
throughout the whole of his dominions.
A short description of the shea butter-tree and plant may interest some
of my readers. This tree has much of the character of the laurel, but
grows to the height of eighteen or twenty feet. Its leaf is somewhat
longer than the laurel, and is a little broader at the point; the edges
of the leaf are gently curved, and are of a dark sap green colour. The
nut is of the form and size of a pigeon’s egg, and when ripe is of a
dun or light brown colour. The substance of the shell is about that of
an egg, and the kernel completely fills the shell. When new it is of a
white drab colour, but if long kept becomes the colour of chocolate.
The kernel, when new, is nearly all butter, which is extracted in the
following manner:--The shell is crushed from the kernel, which is
also crushed, and then a quantity is put into an earthen pot or pan,
placed over the fire with a portion of water and the nut kernels. After
boiling slowly about half an hour the whole is strained through a
grass mat into a clean vessel, when it is allowed to cool. Then, after
straining the fibrous part from it, it is put into a grass bag and
pressed so as to obtain all the oil or butter. This is poured into the
first vessel along with the first-mentioned portion, and when cold is
about the consistence of butter.
The nuts hang in bunches from the different boughs, but each nut
has its own fibre, about seven or eight inches long, and about the
thickness and colour of whip-cord. The nut is attached to the fibre
in a very singular manner. The end of the fibre is concealed by a
thin membrane about half an inch wide and three quarters of an inch
long. This membrane is attached to the side of the nut, and when ripe
relinquishes its hold, and the nut falls to the ground, when it is
gathered for use. A good-sized healthy tree will yield about a bushel
of nuts, but the greater number are not so prolific. The trees close
to the stream present a more healthy appearance, probably on account
of being better watered, and the fire being less powerful close to the
stream.
Besides the shea butter-tree, there are many other beautiful trees,
amongst which I observed the tamarind, the quashie, and different
species of the mimosa, and running plants. The aloe is also in great
abundance here, and in seed.
At twenty-four miles we crossed a valley running N.W. and S.E. This
valley is thickly wooded with large trees, beautifully adorned with
various running plants and thick underwood, so much so as nearly to
close up the path, which is, as I have described already, at all times
very narrow. At twenty-five miles, bearing NN.E. and on the left of the
path, are immense mountains or blocks of granite with large detached
fragments on the summit. At twenty-six miles and a half, and four miles
to the eastward, are the ruins of a former large town, named Managlwa.
This town was romantically situated on an elevated position amongst
an immense cluster of singularly formed spiral rocks, much resembling
broken columns or spires of several hundred feet in height, rising
far above the tops of the tall and beautiful trees which clothe the
mountain. This town was one of the frontier, or first towns in the
Mahee country, and one of the first which was destroyed by the Dahomans
after the Mahees declared war against the King of Dahomey. My guide
informed me that the whole of the population were either killed or
taken as slaves, and the town set on fire. The inhabitants are said
to have fought desperately, preferring death to defeat. The King and
all his caboceers or headmen were killed, and their heads are still
preserved at Dahomey as trophies of victory.
At twenty-seven miles, bearing N. 10° W. the country again became
level, and presented cultivated patches at intervals along the
path, with small krooms at short distances. The scenery now became
beautiful and striking, the mountains to the east, north, and west,
forming an amphitheatre. Close to the main path, along which we were
passing, are small markets, held at the terminus or junction of minor
paths, branching off to small towns or krooms at some distance. The
articles exposed in these markets for sale are generally very limited,
consisting chiefly of provisions and articles necessary on the journey,
such as kankie, roast beef, and elephants’ flesh, as well as boiled
pork and goats’ flesh; and the following vegetables ready cooked, yams,
manioc, and sometimes sweet potatoes. The native traveller may for a
few cowries obtain refreshment at these places. Water is sold at these
markets at a very high price, as well as peto.
At thirty-two miles, bearing north, the country is still open and level
close to the base of the mountains, at this place distant eastward four
miles, westward eight miles, and north twelve miles. At thirty-three
miles we arrived at Setta Dean, so named after the family, or headman
residing here as collector of the customs. This custom-house belongs
to Mayho, the King of Dahomey’s prime minister. Here is a fine
quadrangular court-yard, three sides of which are formed by a close
broad hedge of various shrubs, with an outer hedge of the prickly bush,
the remaining side composed of different apartments or huts, for the
accommodation of the officers of customs, and also for carriers of
goods, who may be weary and unable to proceed farther till recovered
from their fatigue. Here is also a guard of soldiers, who perform
similar duties to our police-officers in England, and afford protection
to all goods deposited in their charge.
In this place we were again supplied with plenty of provision, water,
and peto, and were desired to remain till the caboceer of Setta, a
large town one mile farther, where we were to lodge for the night,
should come and meet us, and take us into the town with military
honours. My people were now all much fatigued after thirty-three miles
march on a very narrow and rough path, and under a tropical sun, so
that they were glad of the opportunity thus afforded them to obtain a
little rest.
After remaining an hour, the approach of the caboceer of Setta and his
soldiers was announced by the noise of their drums and horns, formed
of small elephants’ teeth. My soldiers were now ordered again to fall
in, in marching order, and to receive the caboceer, who in a short
time afterwards entered the quadrangle, escorted by about two hundred
well-armed soldiers. The troops were drawn up similar to our form
of relieving guard. The caboceer, his captain, and other officers,
advanced to the front till within four paces of the spot where I stood.
They then prostrated themselves on the ground. Raising themselves to
their knees, they remained in a kneeling posture, rubbing themselves
over the head and arms with dust; and then again they stooped to kiss
the dust in token of humiliation and submission to the King’s stranger,
and Queen of England’s captain, as they called me.
After the usual complimentary palaver on such occasions, the caboceer
and soldiers of Setta commenced dancing to their rude music. Their
dances, however, are anything but what an Englishman would consider
dancing, for they very seldom use their feet, but go through a number
of fanciful movements, according to the taste of the individual
performers. The principal movements are by throwing the shoulders
backwards and forwards, in some degree resembling the gymnastic
exercise used in drilling our English soldier in order to expand
the chest, but much quicker. Another motion used by them, which is
considered the most amusing in the dance, is a rotatory movement of the
hips, changing to a backward and forward motion of a most disgusting
description. After this party had performed their dance, my guard went
through a similar dance.
It was now about sunset, and I was very anxious to proceed, for, as
my readers will recollect, there is no twilight within the tropics,
therefore as soon as the sun disappears from the horizon all becomes
dark as midnight. We accordingly resumed our march, and at thirty-four
miles arrived at the town of Setta, where we were met by all the
inhabitants. A number of the caboceer’s people met us with torches,
it being rather dark. Here the crowd was so great, as to prevent my
progress for upwards of half an hour. After this we advanced to the
market-place, which is under the shade of three large trees, with
branches of enormous extent. Here they again commenced dancing, being
generally joined by the inhabitants of the town. I now dismounted, and
seated myself under one of the trees till this ceremony was finished,
when I presented the captain of each party of soldiers with a couple
of flasks of rum, to give a dram to each of their men, or at least to
give them each a taste; after which, we were shown to our quarters.
These were much better than I expected. Being very tired, I was soon
stretched on my mat, but was much disturbed by the caboceer sending a
band of picked musicians, with instruments something similar to the
hautboy. Although the sounds were not void of melody, still their
absence to me at this time would have been a great relief; but as I
knew they were sent with a view to amuse me, I bore the annoyance with
tolerable grace.
In about an hour after entering my quarters, numerous large calabashes
of provisions of various descriptions, with plenty of peto and water,
were brought into the court-yard, and placed in front of my quarters.
This was a present from the caboceer for myself and soldiers. After the
usual forms of tasting had been gone through, I ordered the provision
to be divided amongst my soldiers and private servants, of course
reserving some for myself. Finding my servant Maurice in a feverish
state I gave him some medicine, in hopes that a night’s rest might
improve his condition, and after a few visits from different parties of
influence in Setta, I was allowed to retire to rest. I felt thankful to
be left alone, and in a few minutes fell asleep, forgetting once more
the anxieties and cares of my chequered life. My slumbers were sweet
and refreshing, and my little mat was to me equal to a bed of down, and
much more convenient, as it could be rolled up like a sheet of paper,
and carried in the hand.
July 10th.--Early in the morning, I was awakened by the caboceer’s
messenger, who had been sent to inquire after my health. Thank God, I
was well and quite refreshed, and felt no longer the fatigue of the
previous day’s journey. Not so, however, my poor white servant: he was
still suffering much, and was in a high fever. I again administered
James’s fever powder and sedative of opium. Soon after the messenger’s
return the caboceer and principal officers came to my house, or
quarters, to pay their morning compliments, and palaver for about three
quarters of an hour. During this time I gave each of them a glass of
rum. They then retired, and in a short time returned with an enormous
quantity of provisions for our breakfast. The dishes, or calabashes,
containing the food, were all placed on the ground, in the yard in
front of my house, in order according to the different sizes.
When this arrangement was finished the chief caboceer and attendants
advanced and placed themselves before me, at the distance of about four
yards. They then knelt down on both knees, my own captain or caboceer
following the same example, accompanied by several of his principal
officials and headmen. These, however, placed themselves in my front,
facing the former party. The caboceer of Setta then commenced a very
clever complimentary speech, declaring his own great satisfaction, as
well as that of all his people, at being honoured with a visit from the
King’s English stranger; and at the same time expressing a hope that I
and other Englishmen might again frequently visit his country. Thanks
were returned by the captain of my guard in the name of his Majesty
the King of Dahomey. Both parties then prostrated themselves, kissing
the ground and throwing dust over their heads, and rubbing themselves
all over the head and arms with the same. Next he presented me with
the food which had been sent, the tasters touching each dish as they
were named, similar to the mode of touching and calling off messes
in a soldier’s mess-room. The pots and calabashes amounted in all to
thirty-seven in number, some containing as much as an English bushel.
The natives are in general very good cooks, and contrive to make a
great number of dishes from the same material. Of the animals cooked
were bullocks, roasted and boiled, as well as stewed, sheep, goats,
venison, and the young elephant, pork both roasted and boiled, fowls,
Guinea fowls, Muscovy ducks, and turkeys; and of vegetables, yams,
manioc, sweet potato, India corn or maize, with numerous varieties of
underground peas, as well as many other sorts above ground. Their food
is generally highly seasoned with pepper and palm-oil, which, when
fresh, has an excellent flavour, and is very wholesome.
It should always be remembered, that the palm-oil imported into England
is not the same as that used by the natives. The oil sent to England is
merely the outside of the nut, similar to the outside of a plum or any
other stone fruit. The oil exported is extracted from this pulp, but
the palm-oil used here in cooking is extracted from the kernel taken
out of the stone of the palm-nut. It is equal to our best salad oil. A
vegetable called _accro_, of great utility, is generally used in soups.
It is boiled till quite stringy, and is given to invalids. It is said
to be very strengthening. Shalots and different sorts of pepper are
also much used, as well as bananas and plantains.
After the usual ceremony of presenting me with provisions had been
gone through, and I had thanked my generous host, the caboceer and his
attendants repeated the same form of prostration and throwing dust over
their heads, and rubbing dust over the arms and head, acknowledging my
thanks. The caboceer’s and my own taster now commenced tasting every
dish, in order to shew me that everything was good and wholesome.
Then, after drinking water with the caboceer, as a mark of sincere
friendship, we were left to devour our food, my soldiers and other
people using their naked fingers even in eating stews and soups, and
each individual endeavouring to cope with his comrade. We were also
furnished with plenty of peto, which is here manufactured in a superior
manner.
After breakfast several Dahoman traders came to pay court to me. One
of them presented me with a very large Guinea fowl, quite black,
with jet black legs. The caboceer also presented me with two of
the common Guinea fowl, and some of the traders or merchants from
Dahomey subscribed and purchased some goats, and some peto, which
they presented to me. In fact, during the whole day presents were
arriving from different parties. Amongst them was a very old woman,
apparently about ninety years of age, and nearly blind. This poor old
creature, anxious to show her loyalty to the King and respect for his
stranger, presented me with two eggs and four strings of cowries, in
all probability all that she possessed in the world. She expressed her
shame at making so small a present, but I assured her that a white man
did not estimate a gift according to its intrinsic value, but according
to the intention with which it was bestowed, and told her to remember
that the Great Fetish above, God Almighty (for they have an idea of
such a Being) did not estimate our gifts by their magnitude, but by the
purity and sincerity of the heart. In return for her present I gave her
as much as I did to those who had given me a hundred times the value.
This seemed to give universal satisfaction to the multitude assembled.
After receiving the presents the poor old woman prostrated herself
after the manner of her country, and remained in a kneeling posture
till she had sung a song in praise of the white stranger.
A little harmless deception was here attempted to be played off at my
expense by one of the soldiers of my guard. This young man was one of
the King’s huntsmen, and being anxious to compete with the others
who made me presents, by some means procured a very large Guinea
fowl. Making a hole through the neck of the bird with a knife, or
some similar instrument, he assured me upon presenting it to me, that
he always shot his birds in the neck, and with bullets. This I knew
was not true; and upon making some further inquiries, with a view to
ascertain whether this was the suggestion of his own brain or proceeded
from others, I learnt that he had been prompted by others, probably
with a view to raise my opinion of their superior skill in shooting.
I soon convinced them, however, of my total disbelief of their being
able to strike any prescribed part of a bird of much larger dimensions
than the Guinea fowl, and offered the man ten head of cowries if he
would even hit a bird in the neck fastened to a peg stuck into the
ground. The caboceer, however, refused to allow him to try. Of course
this objection saved the young huntsman’s credit for the present, but
I had made up my mind to test his capabilities on the first occasion
which might present itself. In the meantime I made him a present of a
paper of needles and a thimble for the fowl, for which he seemed very
grateful.
Having received so much kindness from everybody in this place, I
determined to make a general distribution of needles, having upwards
of six thousand with me for the purpose of giving away. News to that
effect soon spread through the town, so that my court-yard was soon
filled, and hundreds waited outside. With some difficulty I cleared a
small space for myself to sit down and distribute my needles, giving
four needles to grown women and two to female children; but I soon
found several of the young ones come a second time. As soon as the
caboceer became aware of this, he gave orders that any one who should
be detected coming a second time should be flogged. This threat had the
desired effect; still a considerable time elapsed before I had finished
making my presents to the female portion of the assemblage. The
caboceer very judiciously hinted the necessity of either reducing the
distribution in number, or confining it to the old people, remarking
that I had many other towns and countries yet to pass through. This
advice was well timed, and I forthwith acted upon it, although some
hundreds arrived after I had left off.
Dinner-time had now arrived, and a messenger came to inform me that
it was on the way to my house. After a few minutes a quantity of
provisions exceeding that of the morning was placed before me in the
same manner as before, and with the same ceremony as I have already
described. I selected such dishes as I preferred for myself and
people, and the rest were given to the soldiers. After dinner the
caboceer sent his head messenger to ask if I would allow him to order a
parade of his soldiers to dance before me for my amusement. Of course
etiquette demanded my assent, but I postponed the honour till I had
taken a survey of the town and its neighbourhood, and had made some
observations upon its soil and productions. This proposal was readily
assented to, and after I had dressed myself in uniform, I mounted my
little charger, and rode round part of the town, accompanied by all
my own private servants, except my own white servant, Maurice, who
was still suffering from illness. During my ride I came in contact
with the horse of the captain of my guard. My own as well as his being
entire horses, made some desperate efforts to come in contact with
one another, and I was obliged to punish mine severely with the spur,
which caused him to plunge and kick violently. The people seemed very
much astonished, and expressed their admiration of the white man’s
horsemanship.
Horses are not bred in this country, consequently very few of the
natives ever saw a horse, except at Dahomey, whither a few are sent as
presents to his Majesty. The rider is invariably held on the animal’s
back by two men, who walk on each side. After I had taken a survey of
the town, which occupied about an hour and a half, I returned to the
market-place, where I found all my own soldiers (with the exception
of those who had accompanied me) as also the soldiers of Setta: the
market-place being comfortably shaded from the sun by large trees, gave
the assemblage a very imposing appearance.
I now dismounted, and sent my horse to the stable. A seat having been
prepared for me, I took my position by the side of my captain, the
soldiers of Setta commencing the amusement by dancing of the most
singular description; the motion being chiefly, as before described,
from the hips and shoulders--an excellent gymnastic exercise, and well
calculated to strengthen the limbs and expand the chest. After a few
awkward leaps they were formed up, and ordered to charge; upon which an
irregular rush was made in the direction of a supposed enemy. During
this operation an irregular fire was kept up, with shouts or yells.
They then suddenly returned, each soldier bringing with him a bough or
a handful of grass, and laying the same at the feet of the caboceer or
captain. These are considered as heads cut off their enemies in the
charge with the short sword, which is carried by all soldiers, as
well as a musket. My guard now took their turn in the dance, and went
through the same manœuvres as the former. After this, both parties sat
down pretty well tired. I then distributed a quantity of rum amongst
the caboceers and headmen, to give amongst their people, which was
received with shouts in my praise.
I could not help strongly contrasting the different dispositions of
the people here and those on the coast. The people of this country
are governed by good laws, and although to Europeans they may appear
very stringent, yet they are quite necessary to govern a savage
people. After my friends had drank my health, and I had returned the
compliment, I went back to my quarters, where I found my white man
Maurice a little recovered, but still obliged to lie down.
Again I was visited by all the head people of Setta, many of whom
asked me very shrewd questions respecting England, our trade and
manufactures. The extent of our shipping, and our power on the ocean,
seemed to surprise them most of anything. Of this they had a previous
knowledge, from visiting Dahomey, and no doubt, heard there of the
capture by us of so many slavers. In a short time supper arrived. My
visitors remained with me until a late hour, when I was glad to go to
rest.
The town of Setta is situated on a gently rising ground, commanding a
view to a great distance in all directions. The soil is a rich loam
of a clay colour. Corn is grown here in abundance, and of various
sorts; ginger is also cultivated here. The country abounds with game,
partridges, and Guinea fowl. Cattle here are very good, and numerous
in proportion to what I observed on the coast. Sheep and goats are
here also in abundance. The domestic fowls are the Guinea fowl, common
fowl, and Muscovy duck, as well as the common duck of England. Pigeons
are generally found in great abundance in all the towns and villages.
The caboceer of Setta is a very fine man in person, about six feet
in height, and well formed, and with good features and a pleasing
expression. Before leaving his town he presented me with a very fine
bullock.
Setta contains about nine thousand inhabitants. Their worship is pagan,
but they are not at all prejudiced against any other religion. They
manufacture the earthenware which they use in this place. The town is
surrounded by a clay wall about the height of seven feet only and three
feet thick.
END OF VOL. I.
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
FOOTNOTES:
[20] The paths are so narrow in most instances as only to admit of one
foot at a time, and are sometimes two feet deep.
Transcriber’s Notes
A few minor errors in punctuation and spacing have been corrected.
Page 26: “any person of note die” changed to “any person of note dies”
Page 83: “being invaribly buried” changed to “being invariably buried”
Page 102: “with several baracoons” changed to “with several barracoons”
Page 122: “Ke Suza” changed to “de Suza”
Page 169: “where the land is olwer” changed to “where the land is lower”
Page 170: “to my servicee” changed to “to my services”