Manufacture of Salt--Death of Dr. M’Hardy--Falling
Stars--Manioc, the Food of the Slaves--Crops--Mode of storing
Grain--Superstition--Hospitality of Don Francisco de Suza--A
Tornado--Slave Auctions--Punishment for killing Fetish
Snakes--Slaughter of Dogs, &c.--Dogs used as Food--An English Dog
rescued--Thievish Propensities of the Natives--Falling Stars--Murder
of two Wives--Adjito--A heavy Tornado--Robbed by my Servant--American
Brig sold to Slave Merchants--Shipment of Slaves--Sharks--Death caused
by one--Preparations for my Journey to the Kong Mountains--M. De
Suza’s Liberality--His Opinion of Englishmen.
March 24th.--It is Harmattan season to-day. The thermometer has fallen
from 84° to 71° Fahrenheit, but the general rise and fall of the
thermometer at Whydah may be calculated to range from 78° to 84° during
the month of March; though, as will be seen, sudden and extraordinary
changes have taken place in the temperature. Salt is made in great
abundance at Whydah, and forms one of their principal articles of
trade, and is transported to a great distance into the interior. Their
method of procuring the salt is simple and easy. Near Whydah the sea
flows into the lagoon at high water, consequently it is very salt.
During the ebb-tide the lagoon also ebbs, and the great heat of the
sun causes such rapid evaporation, as to leave the salt on the surface,
so as to resemble hoar-frost or a slight fall of snow. It is then
scraped together, and frequently boiled, which cleanses and whitens it,
but the natives generally use it in its original state.
April 4th.--The _California_, Captain Hunt, arrived here from Cape
Coast and Accra, bringing the melancholy intelligence of the death
of Dr. M’Hardy, colonial surgeon of Cape Coast. He was a young man
of amiable and gentlemanly manners, and shewed great skill in the
treatment of the fever prevalent in that country. It is rather singular
that this gentleman should never have experienced an hour’s sickness
during the two years he resided in Africa, till the short illness which
had proved fatal to him. He had been relieved from his station by Dr.
Lilley, and was only waiting for a passage to England. Dr. M’Hardy
attended me with great kindness and attention during the fever which
attacked me. He was one of the officers of the garrison whose kind and
generous treatment I shall ever remember with the warmest feelings of
gratitude. Indeed I have experienced great kindness from every European
on this coast, as well as from the respectable body of civilized
Africans.
April 11th.--At three o’clock A.M., I observed an extraordinary
falling of stars, falling from south to west at an angle of twenty
degrees. I visited the same day a small kroom, at the distance of three
miles, bearing due west from Whydah. The situation of the village is
delightful, and the land well cultivated. Round the kroom are numerous
manioc and palm-trees. Maize or Indian corn, and manioc are the chief
crops raised in this neighbourhood, on account of the great demand
for farina, which is made from the manioc-root. The root is ground in
the same manner as potatoes for starch. It is then dried in the sun,
and again partially ground till about the same substance as oatmeal.
This is the principal food of the slaves, both during the time they
are waiting to be shipped and on their passage. Corn is produced twice
during the year, and a smaller sort of red corn may be obtained even
four times in the year; but I have generally observed a carelessness in
the storing of grain in this country, consequently the weevil or moth
destroys a great quantity. At this kroom I observed an excellent plan
for storing and preserving grain. A large circular jar, formed of clay,
is placed upon a platform raised two feet and a half from the ground
on pillars, similar to some cornricks in England. This immense jar is
generally about nine feet in diameter and twelve feet deep. As soon as
the first layer of clay is properly hardened, which seldom requires
more than twenty-four hours in a tropical sun, another layer is laid
on, and so on till it attains its proper height. A light conical roof
is then formed of bamboo, and thatch sewn over it, similar to the
covering of beehives in England. This roof can be removed at pleasure,
to give air to the grain. When corn is required for the market, or for
their own use, it is drawn from a hole left at the bottom of the jar,
over which is placed a wooden slide.
A singular superstition exists at Whydah in regard to the position of
the body when asleep. On no account will a native sleep with his head
towards the sea, nor enter a new house to take possession as a dwelling
on a Tuesday or Friday, both those days being reckoned unlucky.
13th.--The thermometer rose to 90°, and at 4 hours 30 minutes fell to
70° Fahrenheit during a tornado.
On the 14th Commander Layton, of H. M. brig-of-war _Cygnet_, came on
shore to visit me, and to thank Don Francisco de Suza for his great
kindness to me since my arrival at Whydah, for I had informed Captain
Layton of the manner in which I had been treated by him. M. de Suza
expressed much satisfaction at this acknowledgment of his kindness,
not only to me, but to all other Englishmen visiting this place. He
is a professed slave-dealer of long standing, as I have previously
mentioned, and that circumstance is likely enough to produce an
unfavourable opinion of him; but a more generous or benevolent man
perhaps never existed, in my opinion.
15th.--I went with Captain Layton on board the _Cygnet_, and was
received with great kindness by the officers. During the night or
previous evening, the _Sea Lark_, Captain Gooch, had anchored near the
_Cygnet_. Captain Gooch came on board, and dined with Captain Layton
and myself. Both these gentlemen expressed their willingness to assist
me in any way in their power consistent with their duty.
On the 25th, at three o’clock A.M., during a dreadful tornado,
accompanied with the most vivid lightning and loudest thunder I ever
heard, the thermometer fell from 87° to 78° Fahrenheit.
At ten A.M. I was present at a sale by auction of the slaves belonging
to a Portuguese merchant, who died on the 23d instant. Being domestic
slaves, they sold high; one, a cook, sold for two hundred and fifty
dollars. The slaves are led in one at a time in succession as they are
sold, and their persons examined. They are sold to the highest bidder,
in the same way as cattle are sold in England. At half-past six a fiery
meteor passed to the southward of Whydah, from east to west.
26th.--The wind changed regularly since the 20th from west to north,
and at daybreak returned to west, forming the circle of the four
cardinal points in twelve hours. This day and night the thermometer
ranged between noon and midnight from 82° to 78° Fahrenheit.
May 1st.--Punishment was inflicted for accidentally killing two fetish
snakes, while clearing some rubbish in the French fort. This is one of
the most absurd as well as savage customs I ever witnessed or heard of.
Still it is not so bad as it was in the reign of the preceding King of
Dahomey, when the law declared the head of the unfortunate individual
forfeited for killing one of these reptiles, even by accident. The
present King has reduced the capital punishment to that described
below. On this occasion three individuals were sentenced, as guilty of
the murder of this fetish snake. A small house is thereupon made for
each individual, composed of dry faggots for walls, and it is thatched
with dry grass. The fetish-men then assemble, and fully describe the
enormity of the crime committed. Each individual is then smeared over,
or rather has a quantity of palm-oil and yeast poured over them,
and then a bushel basket is placed on each of their heads. In this
basket are placed small calabashes, filled to the brim, so that the
slightest motion of the body spills both the oil and the yeast, which
runs through the bottom of the basket on to the head. Each individual
carries a dog and a kid, as well as two fowls, all fastened together,
across his shoulders. The culprits were then marched slowly round
their newly-prepared houses, the fetish-men haranguing them all the
time. Each individual is then brought to the door of his house, which
is not more than four feet high. He is there freed from his burthen,
and compelled to crawl into his house on his belly, for the door is
only eighteen inches high. He is then shut into this small space with
the dog, kid, and two fowls. The house is then fired, and the poor
wretch is allowed to make his escape through the flames to the nearest
running water. During his journey there he is pelted with sticks and
clods by the assembled mob; but if the culprit has any friends, they
generally contrive to get nearest to him during his race to the water,
and assist him, as well as hinder the mob in their endeavours to injure
him. When they reach the water they plunge themselves headlong into it,
and are then considered to be cleansed of all the sin or crime of the
snake-murder. But this barbarous custom does not even end here. After
the lapse of thirteen days, in addition to an annual custom observed
here, custom or holiday is held for the deceased snakes.
During one whole day all persons who are so inclined are permitted to
kill all dogs or pigs as well as fowls found abroad or in the streets.
After the day’s collection all are put in a heap together, some of the
poor animals writhing with agony. They are then distributed amongst
the most ravenous of these cannibals and fetish-men, and are all
cooked. A glorious feast and drinking of rum then takes place. Dogs are
considered, I ought to observe, a great luxury here.
This day a party of vagabonds attacked a very fine English greyhound
belonging to the English fort. I met the villains just as they entered
the fort in pursuit of the poor animal, which they had already lamed.
I gave chase to them, declaring if any one dared to come again into
the fort I would shoot him instantly. The whole crowd threw down the
dogs they had already killed, and made their escape, for they are
great cowards; and many of them, in consequence of my having resided
there three months, knew me. I then went to the Avogaw, and informed
him of my determination to shoot the first of these villains who dared
to enter the English fort, upon which he sent the gong-gong round the
town, warning all persons against injuring white men’s dogs: as they
did not acknowledge fetish, they had no right to meddle with any thing
belonging to white men.
May 3d.--The natives employed in carrying gunpowder from the beach to
the town of Whydah are in the habit of stealing it. The greater part
of the road being sand, they take out the powder and substitute sand.
They also frequently break cowry puncheons on their way, and then send
to the owners, declaring that a puncheon has burst on the road. Before
the coopers arrive, of course a number of cowries are carried away. Rum
puncheons are in nine cases out of ten broached, by shifting one of the
hoops, and boring a hole through the part where the hoop is removed.
Whydah has long been known to be inhabited by some of the greatest
villains in the world. This may arise, perhaps, in a great measure,
from the King of Dahomey not wishing to interfere with white people’s
affairs, and the merchants being too humane to urge the king’s
interference. For they are aware that if he were requested to take
cognizance of any case of robbery of a white man, the robber would
certainly lose his head. But such roguery deserves a severe check.
6th.--Extraordinary falling of stars at two o’clock A.M. in the
southern hemisphere, forming an angle of forty-five degrees from E. to
W. in the fall. Thermometer range from 82° to 77°; but during a tornado
at 4ʰ 30′ fell to 74°.
7th.--I made myself two pair of trowsers. 8th, 9th, and 10th, finished
my little tent, and made it waterproof. 13th, I witnessed a dreadful
attack made by a husband upon his wife. I interfered and rescued her.
I have just heard of a most diabolical outrage and murder of two wives
by the husband, from jealousy. The first he treated in the most brutal
manner, by forcing a large plantain into the lower part of her person,
which instantly caused her death. The second (who was pregnant, and
near her confinement) he ripped open with a large knife. The man was of
course hung.
Unfortunately the people, natives of this place, are altogether
deficient of any rational or charitable feeling. Music is scarcely
known, or indeed any other exertion of the mind calculated to correct
or improve the natural passions. Adjito is the only game practised
here. It is an indolent sort of game, and groups of idle people
assemble daily under the shade of the large cashu trees for the
purpose. Here they remain smoking and drinking rum during the whole
day, instead of cultivating the soil; however, the caboceer, who is an
excellent man, has just issued orders that every piece of waste ground
claimed by any person in or near the town shall be cultivated and
planted with corn, or some other useful vegetable. This order has given
great satisfaction to all Europeans at Whydah.
May 16th.--A heavy tornado, which lasted an hour, from three to four
P.M., the thermometer falling two degrees. I discharged my new servant,
a young Spaniard, for theft. He was one of a crew of villains who
landed from the Spanish slaver run ashore by the _Cygnet_, English war
brig. I took this man from charitable motives when he was without food,
or the means of procuring any. In a short time he began to steal every
thing within his reach, and when discovered made his escape. After
three days’ search, however, I found out his hiding-place, and seized
him. Upon searching him I found some of my property. I then took him to
the English fort, and compelled him to inform me where the rest of my
property which he had stolen was secreted, which I recovered afterwards.
22d.--I made myself a water-proof cloak, and finished a curb-bit and
chain, and converted my saddle into a military one.
26th.--An American brig from Portland, Captain Goodriche, master, was
sold by the captain for six thousand dollars to the slave merchants.
The crew then turned mutinous and refused to work after the slaves were
put on board. The vessel was then manned by Spaniards, who had been
put on shore from prizes taken by English men-of-war. Sending vessels
nearly valueless to the coast with general cargo, and after having
been visited by an English man-of-war several times, discharging their
cargoes, and selling them to slave dealers, seems now to be a favourite
plan with the Yankees. When the vessel sails she is not suspected, from
her apparent unfitness for that trade. This vessel took on board six
hundred slaves in a few hours, and though the swell was so heavy that
none of the vessels in the roads could discharge their cargo, not one
of the slaves was drowned.
Knowing that a shipment of slaves was to take place, I stationed myself
on the road where I knew they would have to pass. The first party
consisted of about seventy very strong athletic men, apparently from
twenty to twenty-five years of age. These were followed by a number
more, carrying pails or buckets for their food on the passage. About
forty were children, varying from seven to ten years of age. These
were not in chains; but marched with two slight grass cords, knotted
at intervals of a yard. The two cords are put, one on each side of the
neck, and another knot is made in front of the neck, leaving sufficient
room, but so tight as to prevent the head from being slipped through.
The others were all in chains; sometimes eighty on one chain. At
intervals of a yard are large circular links, which open to receive the
neck, and which are secured by a padlock. I was surprised to see with
what cheerfulness they all bustled along as if going to a fair. The
returned or liberated slaves were all out to witness the procession,
which seemed to give them great satisfaction; for they declared they
had spent their happiest days in Bahia. I asked several their reason
for leaving such a pleasant bondage; they assured me that it was owing
to the revolt amongst some of the slaves in Bahia, who had been the
means of ruining many slave-holders and large sugar manufacturers, who
were unable to keep or employ them any longer. But, in all probability,
these men were of the mutinous party, and had been sent out of the
country.
I have just learned that two more American vessels are in Whydah roads
at present for the same purpose, and one has lately sailed from Popoe
with a cargo of slaves: In fact, the American government seems to
wink at the trade. Whoever heard of an American man-of-war capturing
a slaver, though there are three American men-of-war on the coast at
present? I forgot to mention the circumstance of a Spaniard who was
employed as a hand on board the _Medora_ schooner, from London. Upon
perceiving the slaves put on board the American brig, anchored at a
short distance, he jumped overboard to swim to her, but had only been
in the water a few seconds, before a large shark approached him. The
poor fellow kicked with his feet towards the shark, endeavouring to
keep it off, but the shark darted on him, and tore away his arm. A boat
was immediately lowered, but before it reached him the shark made a
second attack, and the poor fellow, who was swimming with one hand,
was again seized on the back of the shoulders, and dragged under water,
the tail of the shark remaining in sight. When the boat reached the
spot, the shark appeared on the surface, still holding the man. One of
the men in the boat struck the shark’s head with a boat-hook, when he
relinquished his hold; but the poor fellow’s flesh was completely torn
from the bone. A small rope was fastened round his back, and he was got
into the boat, and after being taken on board the _Medora_ died in half
an hour.
This coast abounds with sharks; and if a man is so unfortunate as to
fall overboard he is sure to be caught by one of them.
June 5th.--Don Francisco de Suza, who has for some time back been
exerting his influence with the King of Dahomey to allow me to visit
his capital, and pass through to the Kong Mountains, has just received
a satisfactory reply. Though M. de Suza is ill and confined to his bed
with rheumatism, the old gentleman was so much pleased with the success
of his application, that he sent for me to his bed-side to inform
me of the good news, assuring me of his readiness to supply me with
everything for my journey, and with presents suitable for the King and
his principal ministers. Mr. Hutton had charged me not to go shabbily
to Dahomey, as, in whatever circumstances I went, I would surely be
considered as the representative of my country; and that, in fact,
unless I went as such, I would be little noticed.
Under such circumstances I felt somewhat embarrassed, for Mr. Hutton
had been ever since my arrival at Cape Coast my sincere and constant
friend. He had supplied me with an order upon his factories at Ahguay,
Whydah, and Badagry, for anything I might require to ensure my success,
and also requested M. de Suza to interest himself in furthering my
views, and to furnish me with suitable presents. M. de Suza, as I have
said, declared his willingness to do anything in his power to assist an
Englishman; for although English cruisers had captured twenty-two of
his slave vessels, yet he respected an Englishman more than any others,
his own countrymen not excepted. Under the circumstances, I was glad to
avail myself of his proffered kindness, although my satisfaction was
mingled with reluctance at my inability to repay the expense incurred,
except by pawning myself to any one who might require my services after
my return to the coast. This was rather a gloomy prospect; however, I
was determined to risk all. On the following day, therefore, according
to M. de Suza’s instructions, everything was ready, with twenty people
to carry my baggage, provision, and cowries. Cowries are a very awkward
money, requiring one man to carry two pounds’-worth.