[Illustration:
_C. Durham, d.el._ _G. Cook, sc_
Mᴿ. JOHN DUNCAN.
(_Formerly of the 1ˢᵗ Life Guards._)
THE AFRICAN TRAVELLER.
London: Richard Bentley. 1847.]
TRAVELS
IN WESTERN AFRICA,
IN 1845 & 1846,
COMPRISING
A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH,
THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY,
TO ADOFOODIA,
IN THE INTERIOR.
BY JOHN DUNCAN,
LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE
LATE NIGER EXPEDITION.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to her Majesty.
1847.
LONDON:
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.
PREFACE.
In presenting the following Work to the public, it may be deemed proper
that I should preface it by giving some account of my previous career,
and of the reasons and circumstances which led to my Travels in Western
Africa.
I was born in the year 1805, of humble parentage, on the farm of
Culdoch, near Kirkcudbright, in North Britain. I had, at a very early
period, a strong predilection for a military life, being of robust
health and an athletic frame. In 1822 I therefore enlisted in the First
Regiment of Life Guards, the discipline and appearance of which are, I
may say, universally admired. During the hours not devoted to military
duties, I applied myself to the cultivation of the art of drawing and
painting, in which I attained some proficiency, and acquired also
considerable knowledge of mechanics, all of which I found of great
service to me when I afterwards became a traveller.
After serving sixteen years in this distinguished regiment, I felt
anxious for a field of greater enterprise, and therefore obtained
my discharge, on the conditions of the late good conduct warrant,
early in 1839. In consequence of meritorious service, I obtained the
appointment of master-at-arms in the late expedition to the Niger. In
this unfortunate enterprise, I narrowly escaped the melancholy fate
of so many of my brave and talented countrymen. Of upwards of three
hundred, not more than five escaped! When at Egga, on the Niger, I
volunteered to proceed up that river, with a few natives only; but, on
account of the increasing sickness of the Europeans, the project was
abandoned. Before the _Albert_, indeed, had descended the Niger nearly
all of them were either attacked by the fever or were dead! The season
was declared by the natives themselves to be particularly fatal, even
to them.
On my arrival at Fernando Po, I was myself attacked with fever,
which so seriously affected a wound that I had previously received
in my leg,[1] that gangrene commenced, and was only checked by the
application of a powerful acid, which destroyed the part affected. At
this time my sufferings were extreme; part of both bones of my leg was
entirely denuded of flesh a little above the ankle-bone. I strongly
desired to have the diseased limb amputated, but having already lost
much blood, and the climate of Fernando Po being unfavourable to such
operations, (in fact, it was considered that it might prove fatal,)
my medical friends, Drs. M’William and Thompson, promised to perform
it when I should arrive at Ascension. The climate of that island is
much superior to any other on the coast of Africa. Fortunately, by
the unremitting attention of the medical officers, and the kindness
of Commander Fishbourne, my wound and my general health much improved
during my stay there. From its serious nature, however, I returned
to England in an emaciated condition. Having naturally a very robust
constitution, I rapidly recovered; but my limb never entirely regained
its former strength.
This, however, did not prevent me from offering my services to the
Royal Geographical Society, to proceed to Africa and penetrate to the
Kong Mountains from the West Coast, the narrative of which journey
I now have the pleasure of submitting to the reader. I ought to add
that the Society provided me with the necessary instruments and
instructions; and that the Lords of the Admiralty directed that I
should have a free passage to Cape Coast. The country I traversed had
been hitherto untrodden by any European traveller, and reached as far
as 13° 6′ North latitude, and 1° 3′ East longitude.
In conclusion, I beg to state, that the Royal Geographical Society
and several other gentlemen liberally contributed funds in aid of my
enterprise, for which I cherish the warmest feelings of gratitude.
JOHN DUNCAN.
FELTHAM HILL,
_August, 1847_.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] I was wounded at the Cape de Verd Islands by the natives, while
aiding my men, upon whom they were about to make a murderous attack. On
retreating, one of them threw a poisoned arrow at me, which I parried
from my face and body, but which struck my leg.
CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
CHAPTER I. PAGE 1
Departure--Arrival at Tangiers--Description of the Town--Market--Price
of Provisions--Method of Storing Grain--Inhabitants--The
Jews--A Jewish Dwelling--The Moors--Fruits
and Flowers--Desolate State of the Town--Moorish Market-women--
Gibraltar--Ascend to the Highest Point--A Pic-nic
and an agreeable Reconnoitre--Cleanliness of the Inhabitants--Arrival
at the Gambia--Bathurst--The Mandingos--Massacre
of the Crew of the _Margaret_--Encounter of the Crew of
the _Courier_ with Pirates--Sierra Leone--Dr.Ferguson--Mr.
Oldfield, his Hospitality--Give Chase to a supposed Slaver--Cape
Coast--Governor Hill--Cape Coast Castle
CHAPTER II. 22
Attacked by Fever--Death of my Servant--Mr. Hutton--Buildings
in Progress by him--Indolence of the Natives--Cheapness
of Living--The Fantees--Their Superstition--Description
of their Idol or Fetish--Their Customs or Holidays--Native
Music--Rum, their favourite Liquor--Proceedings on
occasion of a Death--Mode of Burial--The King’s Custom or
Holiday--Character of the King--My Reception by his
Majesty--Comparatively neglected by the British Government--Fetish
Houses--Native Funerals--Want of Natural Affection--The
Yam Custom--The Fantees, the worst of the
African Tribes--Their Power of Imitation--Wild Animals--The
Patakoo--Granite and Sandstone--The Dutch Settlement
of Elmina--A fine Field for Botanists--State of Agriculture--Excessive
Heat--Message to the King of Ashantee--Cattle--Artizans
much wanted--Murder of an Ashantee
Woman
CHAPTER III. 39
Annamaboe--State of the Fort--Indolence of the Natives, and
Difficulty in procuring Labourers--Domestic Slavery--Missionary
Schools--Want of Education in the Useful Arts--Hints
on this Subject--Vegetables and Fruits--Town of
Annamaboe--Soil--Natives--Reception of me by the King,
and Conversation with him--Mr. Brewe--Mr. Parker--Excessive
Heat--Little Cromantine, its impregnable Situation--The
Fort--Cromantine--The Market-place--Extraordinary
Tradition--Wonderful Dwarf--An Adventure--Accra--Wesleyan
Missionaries--Natives--their Habitations--Wives and
Slaves--Situation of the Town, and Soil
CHAPTER IV. 58
Strange Articles of Food--Native Cookery--The River Amissa--Reception
by the Caboceer of Amissa--Soil, Fruits, &c.--An
Adventure--Visit from a Hyena--The River Anaqua--Arsafah--Soil,
Fruits, &c.--Beautiful Birds--Moors and
Arabs here--Cattle--Return to Cape Coast--Hospitable Reception
there--Invitation from the King of Ashantee--My
Reply--Visit the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast--Coffee
Plantations--Indolence of the Natives--The Town of Napoleon--Eyau
Awkwano--Fruits Growing Spontaneously--Bad Roads--Singular
Mode of Carrying Timber--Cotton Trees--The
Dwarf Cotton Shrub--Scene of a Sanguinary Battle--Djewkwa--Native
Houses--An Intoxicated Caboceer--The Caboceer’s
Presents--Account of him--Return to Cape Coast--Sail for
Whydah--Winnebah--Method of Curing Fish--Natives--Stock--Neighbouring
Country--The Devil’s Hill--Soil--Yanwin
(samphire)--The River Jensu--Beautiful Birds--The King-fisher
CHAPTER V. 78
Native Laws--Roguery of the Natives; White Men fair Game--Superstition
--Fetish-houses--Colour, Habits, &c. of the Natives--Prevalence
of Drunkenness--Disgusting Neglect--Fashion
in Shaving--Tally System--Population--Accra--Mr. Bannerman and his
Hospitality--Danish Accra, partly Demolished--Occasion
of this--Attempt to assassinate the
Governor--English Accra, its Trade much reduced by Competition
with Americans--Currency--Merchants’ Houses--Fruits
and Flowers--The Coromantine Apple--Natives most expert
Thieves--Population--Circumcision--Mode of Carrying Children--Sleep
in the Open Air--Manufactures--Fish--Difficult
Landing--Salt Lake--Soil--Gaming and Drinking--Population
of English Accra--Stock--Cruel Treatment of Horses--Want
of Natural Affection--Sail for Ahguay--Boarded by an English
Brig--Mr. Hutton’s Factory at Ahguay--A Drunken Caboceer--His
Dress and Attendants--A Principal Fetish-woman, her Dress--Dance
performed by her--Natives of Ahguay--Slave-merchants--Cotton
and Indigo--Markets--Treatment of
Slaves--Characteristics of Africans--Fish--Method of Dressing
the Crab--Alligators--Alligator-hunt--Plants and Fruits--The
Velvet-Tamarind--Popoe--Mr. Lawson, a Native Merchant--Introduction to
his Wives--Merchants, their Mode of Living--Slave-Trade--Population--
Manufactures--Gaming and Drinking--Kankie--M. de Suza’s Slave
Establishment--His House--His Domestic Slaves--Noisy Reception by the
Caboceer--Treatment of Slaves
CHAPTER VI. 105
Gregapojee--Extensive Market at--Native Produce and European
Manufactures--Popoe Beads, their Value; probable Origin of--Houses--
Situation and Soil of Gregapojee--Fish--Alligators--Population--Return
to Ahguay, and thence to
Whydah--Toll-house--Fish-trap--Travelling Canoe--Beautiful
Scenery of the Lagoon--Oysters growing to Trees--Old
Ferryman--Gibbets of three Criminals--Murder committed
by them--The English Fort at Whydah--Character of M.
de Suza--Treatment of Slaves--Hints with reference to
this odious Traffic--Price of Slaves--Slave Hunts--Necessity
for Education--Cruelty in the Shipment of Slaves--Visit to
Avoga--Account of him--Reception by him--Mode of Riding--Bad
Road--Reason for not Repairing it--Market at Whydah--Native
Manufactures, &c.--Duties imposed by the King of
Dahomey--His Enormous Revenue--Head Money--System of
Government--Severe Laws, and their Result--Paganism--Abject
Superstition of the Natives--Dangerous to show Contempt
for their Fetish--Anniversary Offerings for departed
Friends--Usual Termination of such Festivals--Snake Worship--Houses
built to contain them--The Snake-Lizard--The
Field-Lizard--The House-Lizard--Vampire Bats
CHAPTER VII. 132
Locusts--The Winged Ant--Its Destructive Nature--Horse attacked
by them--Their Ingenuity in Building--Stock--Great
Want of Mechanics--Portuguese Whydah--Emigrants from
Sierra Leone--Their Deplorable Condition--English at the Fort
of Whydah--Military Resources of Dahomey--Polygamy--Mode
of Shipping Slaves--Brutality on these occasions--Porto Sogoora--Mr.
Lawson’s Slaves--Greejee--Toll imposed there--Zahlivay--Yakasgo--
Badaguay--The Cabbage Palm-tree--Wooded Scenery--The
Palm-tree--Exploring Visit to the Haho--Misfortunes of Ithay Botho,
Capt. Clapperton’s Servant--Adventures--Curiosity
of the Natives--Podefo and its Market--Alligators--My
Crew mutiny from fear--Hippopotami--Superstition
of the Natives--A party of Fishermen, and their
Fish-traps--Base Conduct of the Fishermen--My Punishment
of them and my Crew
CHAPTER VIII. 164
My lonely Situation--Akwoaay, its Population, &c.--Kind Reception
by the Gadadoo--Native House of two Stories--Gigantic
Cotton-tree--Etay, a Vegetable of the Yam tribe--Voracity
of the Natives--Soil, Manufactures, &c. of Akwoaay--Natives
of Porto Sogoora--Visit of the Caboceer--Mode of catching Crabs--Great
Heat--Visit from Native Women--Mr. Lawson of Popoe--Character of the
Natives--Attempt at Murder--Nocturnal Visit--Superstition--Vicinity
of a Fetish-house--Flocks of Monkeys--The Monkey, an article of
Food--Disagreeable Situation--Cravings of Hunger--Visit to the
Greejee Market--An Alligator killed--Usual Notice to the
Authorities on such occasions--The Alligator used as Food--Cruelty
of the Natives to the Horse--Return to Whydah--Bad
Conduct of my Canoemen--Adventures--Arrival at
Whydah--Preparations for my Journey to Abomey--Country
around Whydah--Farms--Emigrants from Sierra Leone
Slave-dealers--Generosity of the King of Dahomey--Soil of
Whydah--Corn-mill--Ferns, Vegetables, Fruits, &c.
CHAPTER IX. 190
Manufacture of Salt--Death of Dr. M’Hardy--Falling Stars--Manioc, the
Food of the Slaves--Crops--Mode of storing Grain--Superstition--
Hospitality of Don Francisco de Suza--A
Tornado--Slave Auctions--Punishment for killing Fetish
Snakes--Slaughter of Dogs, &c.--Dogs used as Food--An
English Dog rescued--Thievish Propensities of the Natives--Falling
Stars--Murder of two Wives--Adjito--A heavy Tornado--Robbed
by my Servant--American Brig sold to Slave Merchants--Shipment of
Slaves--Sharks--Death caused by one--Preparations
for my Journey to the Kong Mountains--M. de
Suza’s Liberality--His Opinion of Englishmen
CHAPTER X. 205
Set out on my Journey for Abomey--Savay--Torree--My wretched
Condition--Azoway--Parasitical Plants--Aladda--Cotton tree--Atoogo--
Assewhee--Havee--A Butterfly-School--Whyboe--Construction of the
Houses--Native Customs--Manufactures--African Character
generally--Population of Whyboe--Akpway--An extensive
Swamp--Ahgrimmah--Togbadoe--Scenery--Soil--Swarm of Locusts
CHAPTER XI. 215
Canamina, its Population--Adawie--Preparations for entering
the Capital--Abomey--My hospitable Reception--Visit from
Mayho, the Prime Minister--Message from the King--The
Palace--The Market-place--Dead Bodies of Criminals hung up--My
Reception by his Majesty--Ceremony on Introduction--Conversation
with the King--Perform the Sword Exercise
before him--His Approbation--Troops of Female Soldiers--The King’s
Person--Ceremony of the Introduction of Military Officers--Dress
of the Female Soldiers--Introduced to the King’s
Chiefs--Visits--The King’s Staff--Review of Native Troops--Feigned
Attack on a Town--The King’s Soldier-wives--Ashantee
Prince--His Majesty’s Opinion of England and the English--The
vain Boasting of the Ashantee Prince silenced by
the King--Principal Officers--The Dahoman Women formidable Soldiers
CHAPTER XII. 241
Visit to the King at his Palace--Description of it--Reception by
his Majesty--Gaudy Dress of the Attendants--Masks, Ornaments,
&c.--Occasion of the War between the Mahees and
Dahomans, and its Result--The King’s Walking-staffs--Dance
performed by his Majesty--Another Review of Female Troops--Execution
of Four Traitors--Horrible Occurrence--Disgusting
office of the Blood-drinker--Ludicrous Scene--The King’s
Mother and Grandmother--Dance performed by them--Costume
of the King’s Favourite Wives--I perform on the
Jew’s Harp--I dance with his Majesty--His Message to the
Queen of England--Ridiculous Customs--Court of Appeal established
at Abomey--Character of the King--Domestic Slavery--A
Slave-hunt--Military Distinctions--Want of Natural
Affection in the Natives--Roguery of my Servant--The King’s
Commissions to me--An Interesting Incident--Murderous
Attack on me by my Servant--Inquiry into the Occurrence--My
Servant compelled to accompany me
CHAPTER XIII. 272
Departure for the Kong Mountains--My Dahoman Guards and
their several Duties--The King’s Wife--Neighbouring Krooms--Soil
and Aspect of the Country--Varied Scenery--Cana--Bobay--Illness
of my Servant--Immense Blocks of Granite--Custom-house--Duties
imposed--Milder Laws established--Dtheno--Travelling
Traders--The Azowah--Destruction of the Shea Butter-tree--Its
Manufacture declared to be lawful--Description of this Tree--Immense
Mountains--Ruins of Managlwa--Destruction of that Town by the
Dahomans--Beautiful Scenery--Markets--Setta Dean--Reception by the
Caboceer--Dance performed by him--Setta--Serenade--Supply
of Provisions--Custom of Tasting--The Caboceer’s Speech--The Natives
expert as Cooks--Variety of Food--Palm Oil--Occro--Presents from the
Caboceer--The Widow’s Mite--Harmless Deception--Presents to the
Natives--Dance performed by the Soldiers--Situation of Setta; its
Soil, &c.--Its Population
ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE FIRST VOLUME.
PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR _To face the Title._
MAP OF THE AUTHOR’S ROUTE p. 1
Wood Cuts.
DAHOMAN WEAPONS 226
DESCRIPTION OF THESE WEAPONS:--
No. 1.--A long straight dagger, with snake on the hilt, to bite the
Mahee people.
No. 2.--A large heavy knife, with imitation of tigers’ claws on the
back, to hook the Mahee people when running away. This knife is about
the substance of the English bill-hook.
No. 3.--A very broad, thin knife, with a Dahomey man in the act of
shooting a Mahee man. This knife is made of silver, and is more for
ornament than use.
Nos. 4 and 5 are King’s battle-sticks: the angle of the handle into
which the blade is fixed is the natural growth of the wood.
No. 6 is a battle-stick, carried by all soldiers, male and female.
This stick is used to beat people to death, when silence is necessary,
as the report of a gun might give an alarm. By examining No. 6, five
large knobs of iron are seen fixed to the under part of the head of
the weapon.
[Illustration:
Map to accompany
THE TRAVELS OF
Mᴿ JOHN DUNCAN
in the interior of
AFRICA
from
WHYDAH TO ADAFOODIA
1845 & 1846
_Engraved by J. & C. Walker._
_Published by Richard Bentley 1847._]
TRAVELS
IN
WESTERN AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
Departure--Arrival at Tangiers--Description of the Town--Market--Price
of Provisions--Method of Storing Grain--Inhabitants--The Jews--A
Jewish Dwelling--The Moors--Fruits and Flowers--Desolate State of
the Town--Moorish Market-women--Gibraltar--Ascend to the Highest
Point--A Pic-nic and an agreeable Reconnoitre--Cleanliness of the
Inhabitants--Arrival at the Gambia--Bathurst--The Mandingos--Massacre
of the Crew of the _Margaret_--Encounter of the Crew of the _Courier_
with Pirates--Sierra Leone--Dr. Ferguson--Mr. Oldfield, his
Hospitality--Gave Chase to a supposed Slaver--Cape Coast--Governor
Hill--Cape Coast Castle.
The Lords of the Admiralty having given orders that I should have a
free passage to any port of the west coast of Africa, and Lord Stanley
having also provided me with letters of introduction to the governors
of the different settlements at the Gambia, Sierra Leone, and Cape
Coast, with orders to render me every assistance in their power, and
being also furnished with letters by Mr. Bandinell, of the Foreign
Office, to the different Commissariats on the coast, requesting them to
render me assistance, I made preparations for my departure forthwith.
The Geographical Society had kindly furnished me with the necessary
instruments to make my geographical observations, and with the maps
of Africa; and, in a generous and delicate manner which I shall never
forget, presented me with a small sum of money. I now, therefore,
merely waited for an official order to proceed by any vessel which
might be directed to take me. This order soon arrived, and I went on
board the _Cygnet_ brig of war, Captain Layton.
I was received by the captain and the rest of the officers in the
most cordial manner. After getting my luggage, however, on board,
another order was forwarded from the Admiralty, transferring me to the
_Prometheus_ steamer, Captain Hay, then under orders for the Gambia
with money. Accordingly, my luggage was put on board the last-named
vessel, and on Sunday afternoon, the 16th of June, 1844, I and my
servant, William Stevens, went on board at Spithead, where the several
vessels, the _St. Vincent_, _Prometheus_, and _Cygnet_, were riding
at anchor near each other. I was received in a very kind manner by
Captain Hay and Lieutenant M’Gregor, and the other officers of the
_Prometheus_.
I must not forget to mention that Captain Johnston assisted me in
obtaining a knowledge of the sextant, and Lieutenant Raper presented
me with a copy of his valuable work on “Practical Navigation.” Captain
Johnston, moreover, came on board the _Prometheus_ at Portsmouth to
request Captain Hay to make me as comfortable as possible, as well as
my servant and my dog.
At four o’clock on Monday morning, June 17th, we weighed anchor (with
steam up), taking the _Cygnet_ in tow as far as Plymouth Sound. At a
late hour on Sunday night Captain Hay unexpectedly received despatches
ordering him to go to Tangiers and Gibraltar, at which I felt not a
little disappointed, for I had fully expected to have an opportunity of
visiting the island of Madeira, and of seeing my friend and countryman
Mr. W. Gordon, whose kindness I had already experienced. However,
my disappointment was fully compensated by being thus allowed to
visit Tangiers, off which we anchored on the 23d. As Captain Hay had
despatches for the Governor, I had an opportunity of going on shore for
a few hours.
On landing I was stopped by several Jews as well as Moors offering
their services to show me the town and market, this day (Sunday) being
their principal market-day. The town of Tangiers is strongly fortified
towards the sea, but quite defenceless from the land. The houses are
generally square, and nearly flat-roofed, and the whole town is built
on a steep declivity towards the bay. There is no regularity in the
streets. The main street is from the bay, or landing-place, close to
which is the custom-house. It is about a quarter of a mile in length,
narrow, crooked, and very badly paved, with shops on each side, similar
to the butchers’ shops in England, but not so clean. This street leads
through the centre of the town to the outer wall, immediately behind
which the market is held. The market-place is in a hollow immediately
behind the town, but not enclosed in any way. It appeared to be well
supplied with cattle and meat.
In the market-place meat may be purchased at 1¹⁄₂_d._ per pound, but
a duty is paid upon every article of consumption taken from the town
to any other country, unless for the British navy. Vegetables are also
very cheap, new potatoes (very fine at this season) are about one
shilling per bushel; large oranges twelve a penny. The market is a
miniature Smithfield with respect to cattle, owing to the great number
of horses, camels, and asses, used in bringing goods to it, as well
as bullocks, sheep, and goats for sale. All goods are transported from
one place to another on beasts of burden. I observed a great number of
fowls at a dollar per dozen.
Their method of storing grain, in case of its not being sold or in case
of rain, is very simple. At short distances from each other in the part
of the market arranged or allotted for the sale of grain, holes are
dug, about four or five feet square, and the same in depth, into which
the corn is deposited until the next market-day. These pits are lined
with wood, and when the grain or other goods are deposited, the cover
is sealed by the market officer or sheriff, who regulates the price of
every article of consumption exposed for sale.
The foreign inhabitants consist of various races, chiefly from France,
Spain, Portugal, and England; the fewest in number are English,
comprising only the English Consul’s establishment. With the exception
of the native Moors, the French and Jews are the most numerous, and
their character is the same as I have found it in all countries
wherever I have met them. The moment you set your foot on shore you
are assailed by a host of Jews and Moors, eager to direct you to their
houses to trade with them. The Jews are generally most successful,
being more civilized than the Moors. They speak good English, as well
as many other languages, and most of the Moors who can speak English
or French, are employed by the Jews as “cads” to direct strangers to
their employer’s house. If they find you at all impatient at their
solicitations, they invariably invite you to go to their house and
drink a glass of wine with them. If you deal with them, you are
supplied with a glass, or even two, but are sure to pay for it in the
price of the article purchased. If you should not purchase any thing,
whatever wine or spirit happens to be your choice, they are sure to be
in want of, or it is so bad that they cannot recommend it; yet upon the
whole they are preferable to the Moors. If you have money they treat
you with great civility.
Their houses are remarkably clean, and their dress is very simple and
graceful. Both male and female Jews dress in the Moorish fashion.
They seldom seat themselves otherwise than on a mat. Upon my entering
a Jewish dwelling, in a hall on the left-hand side, the occupant’s
daughter was seated busily engaged in sewing. She was certainly
one of the most beautiful and graceful women I ever beheld, and
readily offered to shake hands with me. On the opposite side of the
entrance-hall lay a heap of wheat. The latter no doubt for sale, and
probably the former also to be disposed of in the matrimonial market.
On entering an inner apartment, I was introduced to the rest of the
family, five in number, all remarkably clean. In the corner of this
apartment was a young man, about twenty years of age, apparently a
Moor, who showed article after article for sale, as a hawker would
in England. Amongst the articles exhibited were French and Spanish
cottons, morocco slippers of various patterns, silk girdles beautifully
embroidered, and ladies’ reticules of a very rich pattern, also
beautifully embroidered with gold, on velvet of various colours,
chiefly green or red.
I observed during my short stay only two different kinds of trade
practised in Tangiers--shoe-making and gun-making. The gun-makers
showed much ingenuity, considering the clumsiness of their tools: they
even twist their barrels. In general, I cannot speak very favourably of
the cleanliness of the Moors, as compared with the Jews. Their streets
are very dirty,--sheep-skulls, horns, and other parts of different
animals, being thrown into the streets; and on the outer skirts of the
market-place may be seen a number of dead dogs and kittens, which have
been carried there and left to perish, for they have not the humanity
to put them to death by any other means.
I had an opportunity of visiting the Swiss Consul’s garden, which is
laid out with considerable taste, and abounds with fruit, among which I
observed very fine oranges and citrons, and remarkably fine figs. There
is also a burial-ground, where Christians of all nations are interred,
amongst which were pointed out by my Moorish guide the graves of an
English family, consisting of a father, mother, and two children, who
had been robbed and murdered by the Moors.
I was informed by several of the inhabitants that it is very dangerous
for any stranger to proceed more than a mile or two from the town,
unless attended by a mounted soldier, who is appointed by the Governor,
and receives a dollar per day.
The cactus grows here wild, and of gigantic size; although in the
immediate vicinity of the town little vegetation is apparent. Of the
minor class, the orange, citron, and saffron shrub, with some large
aloes, are the chief plants I observed. The place seems altogether
poor; but from information I obtained, it would appear that trade was
much better some time back, before many of the Jews left the place on
account of the disturbed state of the country. In fact, the inhabitants
are now in hourly expectation of the French blockading the town. There
is at present a Spanish frigate at anchor abreast of the town; and
since we dropped anchor this morning, a French man-of-war steamer has
arrived and anchored near the _Prometheus_.
The Jews here make a good trade by changing English money. They deduct
three shillings in the sovereign for exchange, and at Gibraltar,
two,--a serious disadvantage to English visitors.
Mules and asses seem of all animals most used as beasts of burden. The
Moorish market-women have a very singular appearance, owing to their
dress, which consists of a piece of thick woollen cloth, the same as a
blanket, which envelopes the whole of their body, and entirely conceals
their faces. From the slowness of their pace, and their figure,
excepting the colours of their dress, one might imagine them part of a
funeral procession. The men are generally tall and muscular, though not
fleshy, and strict Mahomedans.
At six in the evening we weighed anchor, got steam up, and sailed for
Gibraltar, where we anchored about nine o’clock. I was truly gratified
at having an opportunity of visiting this place, which is, indeed, one
of the wonders of the world. We carried despatches from the Consul at
Tangiers to the Governor, Sir Robert Wilson. On the following morning,
the 24th of June, I went on shore to see this impregnable rock, of
which it would be presumption on my part to attempt a description,
since it has been done by abler pens than mine; but I will merely give
an account of the treatment received by myself and two of the young
gentlemen belonging to the _Prometheus_ from some of the inhabitants
when on shore, which I do principally to remove those prejudices
against them which are sometimes entertained by the English. In fact, I
had formed a very different opinion of the Spaniards from what I found
them to deserve.
I had determined to reach the summit of that tremendous rock; and
for that purpose I ascended by a zigzag path, passing several strong
batteries, all commanding the town and bay. When we had gone half way
to the top, we fell in with a large gipsying party (as it would have
been termed in England), keeping holiday in memory of St. John, at the
entrance of a large cave, in front of which a sort of platform had
been formed, as it seemed, by the joint work of Nature and Art. As it
completely commands the town and shipping, it was, doubtless, at some
former period used as a battery. I was struck with the free, lively,
and generous manner in which the whole party received us. Their number
was about a hundred ladies and gentlemen, with several children. On
our approach, we were cordially invited to join them, and partake of
their refreshments, which they had in abundance. Their table was formed
by a finely wrought grass mat, spread in the entrance of the cave,
which is about ten feet high in the centre, and about twenty feet wide.
In the centre of its mouth is a basaltic column, resembling those in
Fingal’s Cave. From this elevated spot, we commanded a view of the town
of Gibraltar, its beautiful bay filled with shipping, among which we
observed the _Warspite_ with the _Vesuvius_ and _Prometheus_ steamers.
The towns on the opposite shore of the bay were all perfectly visible;
and the surrounding country, with its majestic mountains, formed a
splendid scene.
The liveliness and hospitality of the party we met here gave me a very
favourable notion of the inhabitants of Gibraltar. If other Spaniards
are like these, I think they are among the gayest and happiest people
in existence. After partaking of some wine and other refreshments, we
were invited to join in a dance, and asked what dance we should like
to see performed, English or Spanish. The ladies performed both with
admirable grace, highly set off by their simple and graceful dress
and fine figures, which give them a decided superiority over any
other people I have seen. Their small feet, elasticity of action, and
unaffected ease of manner, are certainly deserving of admiration. Their
dark hair neatly plaited in two braids hanging down the back, with a
small curl near the eye on each side, pressed close to the temple,
with their dark but bright expressive eyes, ivory teeth, and fine
features, reminded me of Lord Byron’s descriptions. I was also struck
with their remarkable abstemiousness: the women drink no wine, or any
fermented liquor, except at meals, and even then seldom without water.
The men are remarkably civil and obliging, and almost as abstemious
as the women. Though it was a holiday I did not see one intoxicated.
After several dances had been performed for our amusement, we proposed
to go up to the top of the mountain, and the whole party immediately
volunteered to accompany us. Everything was therefore got ready without
delay; the asses were saddled, and a basket or cradle was attached to
each, in which the youngest of the children were placed. As soon as all
was ready, the word of command, “March!” was given by the captain of
the party, the procession being headed by two men playing on guitars.
The path, though very rough and steep, was quickly ascended; and even
along the brink of precipices the ladies and children passed without
showing the least alarm. After a rather fatiguing journey we arrived
at the summit of one of the two highest peaks, on which is a look-out
house and a strong battery. On looking over the outer wall of this, the
sight which presents itself is really terrific, for the rock is here
quite perpendicular from the base to its summit.
After resting for about a quarter of an hour, we re-ascended the rock
for about half a mile, till we came to the path leading to the second
peak, when we began our second ascent, and in about twenty minutes
reached the signal-house, at the highest point of the rock. Among the
artillerymen stationed there I met with one of my countrymen, M’Donald,
a native of the Isle of Sky. He is a sergeant or sergeant-major of
artillery, and is allowed to sell wines and other liquors. I was
desirous to treat our party on arriving here: but none of the females
would take anything but water, and the men could only be prevailed
on to drink one glass of either porter or wine. When the younger
ladies had performed a few favourite dances, we descended the rock
as far as the mouth of the cave, where we again halted for about ten
minutes. Dancing was here renewed; the cloth was again laid, and a very
luxurious repast was set before us. The evening being now far advanced,
we were obliged, with regret, to take our leave of this happy and most
agreeable party.
On the following day, while we were getting in the requisite quantity
of coal, I had an opportunity of visiting different parts of the town,
which appears to be strictly governed. Every house is visited by the
police, before ten o’clock A.M., to see that it has been thoroughly
cleaned,--a regulation which might be advantageously adopted in our
own overgrown metropolis. Even the poorest of the inhabitants are
remarkable for their cleanliness. Their linen is exceedingly clean.
On the 25th we hove our anchor, and I left Gibraltar with much regret.
Nothing of importance occurred during our passage to the Gambia. The
weather was fine, and I received such kind assistance from all the
officers, particularly from Captain Hay, as I shall never forget as
long as I live. Upon his learning that I had forgotten my telescope, he
very kindly presented me with a very good pocket-glass.
On the 6th of July we arrived at the Gambia, and anchored abreast of
the town of Bathurst, at twenty minutes past eight in the evening. On
the following morning I saw with much regret the _Wilberforce_ steamer
lying partly dry, the tide ebbing and flowing into her. She formed a
striking contrast to what she was when I left England in company with
her in the ill-fated Niger expedition. About ten o’clock A.M. I went
on shore, accompanied by our sailing-master and purser, and visited
several European merchants and official gentlemen, as well as the
Governor, for whom I had letters; all of whom treated me with every
mark of kindness, particularly Mr. Quin, who took great pains to show
me everything of interest in Bathurst.
This settlement is not large; the houses are good, and well constructed
for a warm climate. Behind the main town are a considerable number of
conical huts, very close to each other. Upon the whole, Bathurst seems
well adapted for trade, and capable of being greatly improved. As far
as I could judge, it is in a thriving condition. It is much visited by
Mandingos for the purpose of trade. These are a peculiar race, easily
distinguished from any other, being tall and thin, very active, and
very black. Their skin is apparently not so moist as that of some other
African tribes; but their head is very singularly formed, tapering from
the forehead upwards, to a narrow ridge along the crown. As this was
the sowing season, fruits were not plentiful. Some bananas, cocoa-nuts,
ground nuts, and other small fruits, were all that could be obtained.
We here received intelligence of the massacre of part of the crew of
the _Courier_, William Vaughan, (which left London 29th April, 1844,)
on the island of Arguin. On the 19th of May, it appeared, they got
sight of land a little north of Cape Blanco, and on the 20th rounded
the point or cape, and entered the bay of Arguin, when suddenly the
ship got into two fathoms water. Upon this the master instantly
ordered the helm hard a-port, but before the ship could be got round
she struck at three P.M. at high-water and spring-tide. Fifty tons of
ballast were now thrown overboard, and at two on the following day,
she being got off, the chief mate was sent to sound a-head, but was
often obliged to anchor, owing to the incorrectness of the charts. He
anchored with the long-boat under the island during the night, owing
to the heavy sea running; but as he was rounding the point to return
to the ship, he saw two natives and a white man coming towards the
long-boat. The white man hailed the boat in English.
They again rounded the point to take in their countryman, upon which
the two natives beat him unmercifully with bludgeons. One of the
Englishmen then ran back to the boat and procured a musket, which
he presented at the two natives, on which they immediately ran off.
Upon reaching the poor Englishman, the mate and men belonging to the
_Courier_ ascertained that the barque _Margaret_, of London, had been
plundered at the same place in the month of May previous, that almost
all hands had either been murdered or taken prisoners, and that,
besides himself, four more men belonging to the _Margaret_ were still
alive upon the island undergoing every hardship.
The commander of the _Courier_, upon being acquainted with this fact,
made up his mind to ransom his countrymen, and for that purpose made
proposals, which were agreed to; but after the natives got possession
of what they asked, they made a second and a third demand, and
ultimately compelled the boats’ crew, by firing upon them, to get
into their boats, leaving their property behind. The _Courier’s_ boat
had got a small brass gun, which they fired on this occasion; but it
recoiling to leeward, a man was shot and fell in the same direction,
upsetting the boat with ten men, all of whom were either drowned or
killed. The natives then got possession of the boat, and were actually
coming alongside the _Courier_ with her own boat to plunder the ship,
when fortunately the boat came broadside on, and the master got a gun
to bear and destroyed her. He then as soon as possible slipped his
cable, and, with only four men, sailed for the Gambia, where I saw him.
I cannot help thinking that many masters of merchant-vessels run into
great danger, and incur risk to their owners, without any chance of
doing any good, merely to obtain a name for themselves. Had the master
of the _Courier_ sailed for the Gambia, and communicated with the
authorities there, no doubt a man-of-war would have been despatched to
Arguin, and the crew of the _Margaret_ recaptured. If Arguin should
prove to be a profitable speculation in regard to the Guano trade, some
permanent protection must be afforded by the Government.
It is generally believed that the Emperor of Morocco is cognisant
of all the piracies committed; and if this be so, why not make him
answerable, and take so much territory from him upon every outrage
perpetrated by his people upon British property? If the French
Government did the same, an end would soon be put to all such piracies.
On the 8th of July, at two P.M., we sailed from the Gambia for
Sierra Leone, and anchored at Free Town on the 11th, in the evening.
We anchored close to my old ship the _Albert_, of the late Niger
expedition, now commanded by Lieut. Cockroft.
On the 12th, in the morning, I went on shore, and delivered my official
letters, and met with a most cordial reception from every one. Dr.
Ferguson was acting Governor at that time; he is a most excellent man.
Here I was very agreeably surprised to find my old friend Dr. Oldfield
comfortably settled. He was one of my most intimate friends many years
before I left the First Life Guards. I found him still the same, and
still possessing the same generous heart. Long may it beat tranquilly!
I had many hospitable invitations; but accepted that of my friend
Oldfield, who kindly opened his house for me during my stay here, and
gave two large dinner-parties in respect to my presence. He also kept
an excellent horse at my service during my stay. He keeps four of the
best horses in the colony. I must be ungrateful, indeed, did I ever
forget his kindness. I also experienced great kindness from the Rev.
Mr. Dove, of the Wesleyan Missionary Church. The country is beautiful,
and capable of great improvement; and I cannot help thinking that if it
were cleared for some distance, it would be much healthier than it is.
On the 17th we sailed for Cape Coast; and, on the 21st, at daybreak,
a sail was reported on our starboard bow, which from her appearance
was supposed to be a slaver. All hands were in anxious expectation of
a prize; every glass or telescope in the ship was put in requisition
to ascertain what craft she was. She changed her course two points,
which occasioned still more suspicion. Consequently, steam was ordered
on (we were before only under canvass) as quickly as possible, and the
fires were backed up, so that we were in a few minutes in full chase
of the supposed slaver. We gained upon her very fast, although she set
every stitch of canvass, and in an hour and a half we were alongside.
All her guns were run out, and ready for action, and every man at his
quarters. But, to our great disappointment, she turned out to be a
French ten-gun brig, in so dirty a condition as quite to disguise her,
so that we never suspected she could be a ship-of-war. The whole of
her stern bulwarks were covered over with bamboos, and she altogether
resembled a palm-oiler. She was named the _Eglantine_.
At ten A.M. on the same day we anchored off Cape Coast, and on the
morning of the 22d I went on shore, and called at the fort to deliver
my official papers from Lord Stanley to the Governor. I was, however,
informed by his secretary, that his Excellency Governor Hill had not
yet risen. I then waited upon Mr. T. Hutton, a merchant at Cape Coast,
to whom I had letters of introduction. He received me with every
mark of kindness, and allotted to myself and servant an elegantly
furnished house, with servants to attend on us, assuring me that I
was heartily welcome to any thing in his house. I afterwards called
upon Governor Hill, and presented Lord Stanley’s letter, on which he
wished me success in my arduous undertaking, but never once asked me
where I intended to remain, or whether I had got my luggage ashore, or
how I was accommodated. After visiting the fort, however, I felt very
glad that I had escaped such accommodation, or rather imprisonment.
Governor Maclean, it appeared, upon his departure, took all his private
furniture with him. Nothing consequently remained but the bare walls,
and a few of the commonest Windsor chairs and plain tables, as the
furniture of the Governor’s apartments. In fact, any part of the fort
at Cape Coast far more resembles a prison than many of our prisons in
England.