THE EASTERN FJORDS
The _Vesta_ was late in arrival, and as the taking in of cargo occupied
several hours, we did not get away from Husavik till the afternoon;
we then headed straight for the Arctic Circle, passing the island of
Lundey on the way out of Skjalfandi. When we entered within the Arctic
Circle in the evening, the atmospheric conditions and the temperature
were in keeping with our position on the earth's surface, for it was
cold and bleak, and the night promised to be a dirty one; but the
weather during the night was not so bad after all, and when I awoke in
the morning it was to find the sunshine streaming into my cabin through
the open port.
At Vopnafjord we remained from early morning till late at night. We
climbed the hills at the back of the town and made our way over towards
Nypsfjord. From an elevated spot we obtained a view looking into that
fjord. It was not a scene of striking beauty, but I was interested to
see that the entrance to the inner fjord was narrowed considerably by
a spit that extended well into it, perhaps two-thirds across. This
had been formed, as usual, by the sea beating in and banking up the
detritus brought down by the river, the Vestradalsá. Up there on the
rises I succeeded in stalking some sheep and in photographing them.
I had tried several times before, but had always failed. Nearly all
the sheep in Iceland are horned, while most of the cattle are without
horns. There were several things of interest in Vopnafjord that I
photographed--the interior of a cod-fish store being one of them;
another was the home of "Socrates," a notification to that effect being
prominent on the front of the house. There were several stores on a
point near the middle of the town, and in front of them there were
about a dozen fish-drying grids lying on the slope of the beach. Here
at Vopnafjord we found the people to be most curious regarding us and
our movements. It was Sunday, and having nothing to do, they displayed
to the fullest extent the Icelander's worst characteristic, that of
staring hard and persistently.
In the afternoon while cargo was being taken in, a little mild
excitement was caused by the capsizing of nine bales of wool into the
water, and by their subsequent rescue from drifting out to sea by a
boat that went in pursuit.
Before departing from Vopnafjord we had an invasion of Icelanders. They
came on board, boatloads at a time; the smoking-room was soon full of
them, and there were crowds on deck. I was writing in a recess just
above the companion-way to the saloon; small crowds descended by it
to the regions below and did not reappear--goodness knows where they
managed to stow themselves. A fellow-passenger came up from a visit
to his cabin and informed me that he had stumbled over two of the
Icelanders, who had taken possession of his cabin. Helvit!--to use the
mild Icelandic swear-word--what about mine? I went down to see what
was going on in _my_ cabin, and returned on deck breathing more freely
(in two ways!), for I found that my cabin companion had early taken
possession and had so far kept out all invaders, in spite of repeated
attacks upon his stronghold. The atmosphere below was becoming quite
oppressive, and one could almost have cut out a chunk of it!--hence, as
I have stated, I breathed more freely on deck. But it occurred to me
that if I took possession of my own bunk, I could help my companion in
resisting future attacks of the enemy; so I went down again.
"There's a cry and a shout, and a deuce of a rout" going on generally,
for we had arrived at Seythisfjord, and the invading horde was
preparing to leave the vessel--it had come to take part in the
ceremony of unveiling a monument that was to be performed that day,
and to enjoy the subsequent festivities and gaieties. The trampling of
feet above informed me that the natives were congregating round the
companion-ladder. I shoved my head through the port-hole, and there,
but a few yards off, were two or three boats. One was just pulling away
very fully laden, another was loading up with passengers, and a third
awaiting its turn to take on its human cargo. I went to my tub, and so,
for a few minutes, escaped from the noise.
During breakfast I listened to the tales of woe as related by my
fellow-passengers. One had had four of the natives camped in his
cabin. In the morning they severally made use of his sponge and soap
in performing their ablutions, while his tooth-brush only just escaped
service. Whatever of his effects were lying loose about his cabin
were subjected to inspection and examination: a bottle of "Elliman's"
was uncorked and smelt, and the Icelanders seemed inclined to taste,
but in their discretion refrained; had they but tested its virtues,
they would no doubt have found it a most excellent pick-me-up. After
performing his own toilet he went on deck, but on returning to his
cabin a few minutes later, found two women in possession, and busy at
his wash-basin. My fellow-passenger was a man who did not object to
cleanliness in a general way, but for the native Icelander, both sexes,
to take possession of his cabin and make use of his toilet things,
was too much for his nerves. If he did not take a leaf out of the
Icelanders' book and make use of their swear-word, Helvit! it was only
because he was a clergyman; but I have no doubt that he thought that
and much more of a similar kind!
Another passenger reported that he had lost one of his native
companions in a very extraordinary way. I must state that some of
the Icelanders have the disgusting habit of spitting in all sorts of
places, and they are not, as a rule, particular where--to them the
whole world is a spittoon! This passenger stated that he had found
a big Icelander in his cabin the night before, who remarked that he
was going to sleep there, and immediately afterwards made some noisy
throaty sounds, inquiring where he could spit. On being informed that
it was not customary for anybody to spit anywhere in a cabin, and
that there was no place where _he_ could do so, he looked surprised
and expressed himself to that effect. Much to this passenger's relief,
the Icelander then took himself off from the cabin, and was seen there
no more. No doubt the native had found some spot where he was able to
indulge his habit to his heart's content.
I went ashore after breakfast, and landed just in time to see a
procession of Icelanders and others. The occasion was the unveiling
of a memorial stone that had been erected by the inhabitants of
Seythisfjord and the surrounding country to the memory of a Norwegian,
one Otto Andreas Wathue, who died in 1898. This man had been
instrumental in making Seythisfjord a place of considerable importance,
and its prosperity was due entirely to him.
[Illustration: THE PROCESSION AT SEYTHISFJORD.]
The ceremony had drawn to Seythisfjord all the notabilities of the
neighbourhood, as well as others from the near fjords, and a few from
such distant places as Akureyri; it had also drawn thither two Danish
men-of-war, and there were in port three vessels belonging to the
United Steamship Company: the _Ceres_, the _Vesta_, and another. Some
of the chief of the officers from the war-ships attended in their
official capacity, while others from the Company's three vessels also
attended the ceremony; several joined in the procession, which started
from the veiled monument at the head of the fjord near the heart of
the town. The Norwegian, Wathue, had lived on the south side of the
fjord in a large house about a mile from the monument, and there the
widow still lived. The procession made its way along the road by the
side of the fjord, and then passed the house, where everybody saluted
the widow, who, with her relatives and a few friends, was a spectator
from an elevated grass plat. I was standing just beside the house
taking snap-shots. My picture shows the head of the procession: some
of the leading figures may be seen in the act of saluting the party
assembled on the grass in front of the house. The procession halted a
short distance beyond, and then returned to the starting-point at the
monument, round which the members of it congregated. The ceremony of
unveiling was performed after some speechifying had been got through
and several poems, composed by Icelandic poets for the occasion, had
been recited or sung. Those assembled then adjourned to the fête ground
on the other side of the river, where dancing and running and other
athletic sports were carried on during the rest of the day, and where
fireworks were displayed in the evening. I took several photographs
on the outskirts of the crowd round the monument while the ceremony
of unveiling was going on; in them are two young women attired in the
national costume. One is dressed in white and the other in a dark
dress, but both have on the peculiar national state headdress.
[Illustration: SEYTHISFJORD--ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE CROWD ROUND THE
MONUMENT.]
We called at Northfjord in the early morning, and after less than
an hour there, set sail for Eskefjord, arriving there just before
breakfast-time. Though we remained for several hours, I did not get
ashore, for there was so much uncertainty about the time of departure
that we might have started at any moment; there was also the usual
difficulty of getting a boat.
Faskruthsfjord is a very picturesque place; bold and peculiarly shaped
mountains are all around. A liparite and tuff mountain on the southern
side is noticeable chiefly for the inclined strata that lie upon its
southern slopes. Behind the town a huge pyramid (a fine example of
the result of denudation) towers high above. Faskruthsfjord is the
chief resort of the French fishermen who carry on their avocation on
the coast of Iceland, and though there are a few Icelanders in the
settlement, yet the greater number are French.
During the latter part of the voyage we had a passenger, an
Englishwoman, lying dangerously ill. The doctor from ashore, an
Icelander, came on board here to see her, as other doctors had at other
ports of call; but he did not go away decently as the others had--no,
he remained on board drinking and smoking, and talking at the top of
his voice, with a number of men from shore, the carousal being carried
on just outside the cabin-door of his patient! A specimen of the
customs of the country as observed by at least _one_ Icelander!
Our last port of call in Iceland was in Berufjord, where we arrived at
about six in the morning. As it was rainy and misty, I could not well
judge of the scenery. It looked an interesting place, and there were
several sharp conical peaks showing dimly through the thick atmosphere.
We put to sea about an hour later, in weather that promised to be
blowy, and the promise was fulfilled, for we were soon in a fairly
heavy sea, which increased as the day wore on; it continued bad until
we approached the Faroes next day, when it cleared up, and we had
bright, fine weather while amongst those islands.
We obtained excellent views of the various headlands at the north end
of the Faroes; it was noticeable that all had perpendicular precipices
facing the north, where the sea is continually at work eroding their
bases. We passed through Kalsofjord, the channel between the island of
Kalso on the west and those of Kuno and Bordo on the east. The islands
have many corries, soft dykes, and mountains of pyramidal shape. There
are several villages most picturesquely situated in the valleys and
corries, but as we steamed along in mid channel we were not near enough
for the camera to be of service.
We reached Thorshavn in the early afternoon, so I went ashore for an
hour to have another look at the picturesque town and at the Faroese.
In the evening we set sail for Leith.
[Illustration: FAREWELL FAROESE!]
APPENDIX I
NOTES ON PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FAROES AND ICELAND
BY A. W. HILL, M.A.
The decumbent character of the vegetation and the practical absence
of trees form the most striking features of the flora in both the
Faroes and Iceland. In the Faroes the steep and rocky hillsides are
very exposed and wind swept, and the vegetation is in consequence
characteristically dwarfed, and most plants raise themselves but little
above the general level of the grass.
The dwarfed habit was well shown by some plants, such as _Orchis
maculata_, which was very common on the slopes, and was only a few
inches high. The inflorescences did not, as a rule, bear more than
five to ten flowers, which, however, were large and pale in colour.
The ovaries in many cases were not twisted, so that the labellum was
consequently uppermost.
Another example of the effect of the conditions on the vegetation was
afforded by the dandelion _Taraxacum deus leonis_, which exhibited the
prostrate habit exceedingly well, for in order to protect the flowers
from the wind, the flower scapes were bent over and laid parallel to
the surface of the ground and the inflorescence was exposed to the
light by a right-angled bend of the scape just below the head of the
flowers. The inflorescence was by this means protected from the wind by
being kept just below the general level of the vegetation.
_Cardamine pratensis_ was also influenced in a similar way on the
lower slopes, but at higher altitudes plants were found bearing single
radical flowers on short stalks instead of the usual raceme.
We proceeded to Akureyri in the north of Iceland by way of the east
coast, and it was interesting to notice the difference in the condition
of the vegetation on the northern and eastern shores of the island. On
the east coast, at Seythis-and Vopnafjords, the plants were stunted
and for the most part only in bud; but in the north, at Husavik and
Akureyri, similar plants were much earlier, and were not only in full
flower, but were also much less stunted, and showed a more robust
growth than those found on the eastern side. For example, _Plantanthera
hyperborea_, which was in tight bud on the east coast, and also
_Thymus_ and other plants, were in full flower at Husavik.
_Thalictrum alpinum_, which grows abundantly all over the hillsides,
was found to be attacked by the æcidial stage of one of the rust fungi,
_Puccinia septentrionalis_;[1] and at Seythisfjord, where it was
especially noticed, it was found that only the topmost leaflets were
affected, that is to say, only those leaflets which protruded above
the general level of the vegetation, and which were in consequence
infected by wind-blown spores. At Seythisfjord the leaflets were only
slightly attacked, the fungus being in a young state; but at Husavik it
was much more advanced, and the hypertrophied purple tissues were very
conspicuous. The effect often extended some way down the petioles.
The case of the fungus is a further example of the greater forwardness
of the plants in the north.
There can be no doubt that the characteristics of the east coast
vegetation are due to the prevalence of cold winds and the occurrence
of cold currents.
Whilst crossing the island several interesting features of the
vegetation were noticed. Between Akureyri and our first camp (Thverá)
several "forests" were passed through, consisting of _Betula nana_,
_Vaccinium uliginosum_, and Willows, _Salix lanata_ and _S. glauca_
rising to a height of from nine to eighteen inches, with an undergrowth
of other small plants.
The hillsides all round were covered by _Dryas octopetala_, which was
by far the commonest plant in the northern half of the island, and it
was abundant also on the east coast.
Travelling along the Oxnadal and then turning off towards
Silfrastathir, _Dryas_ at first was the most conspicuous feature of
the vegetation covering the rocky moraines and talus slopes; but about
three miles from the head of the valley the _Dryas_ was replaced by
_Cerastium alpinum_ and _Potentilla maculata_, which then in their turn
became the dominant plants for a considerable distance. As we traversed
the island we kept passing through well-marked zones of different
plants, whose limits seemed largely to be determined by the character
of the soil.
After crossing the "col" some very rough screes were passed, on which
the Iceland poppy, _P. nudicaule_, was growing abundantly. The screes
were formed of rough angular blocks with very little soil between them,
and the poppy was only growing in the most barren spots; where moraines
occurred the poppy did not grow. It was also found on the stony ground
by the river at Silfrastathir.
The hillsides were covered in many places by large tracts of
_Equisetum_ (_E. arvense_ and _E. pratense_). The various species of
the Equisetaceæ seem to be among some of the commonest plants of the
island. The swampy regions by the rivers are covered with _Equisetum_
and _Scirpus cæspitosus_; and they are very abundant on the mountains.
From the river until we reached Gilhagi, the flora showed no features
of any particular note; but a meadow there with large plants of
_Saxifraga cernua_ in full flower was a very beautiful sight.
On ascending from Gilhagi a change in the flora was gradually seen.
After about 2000 feet _Pedicularis flammea_ appeared and became
common; on the lower slopes the leaves were green and the plants tall,
but at greater elevations the plants became short and stunted, with
deep red leaves. The high ground was very much broken up, being of a
deep hummocky character and covered by a dwarfed growth of Willows,
_Empetrum_, Mosses, etc.
Passing over ground from which the snow had just melted, the willows
were found to be either still quite bare or just coming out into
leaf, but everywhere in such barren places cones of _Equisetum_ were
seen sticking up on pale brown stalks some six inches above the soil;
the sterile green shoots do not grow up until some time after the
appearance of the cones.
All around Athalmansvatn the ground was very hummocky, the mounds being
from a foot to eighteen inches high, with narrow depressions or ruts
between. The elevation of this region was about 2500 feet, and as the
snow had only recently melted, everything was in consequence backward,
_Thalictrum_ and willows, etc., not yet being in flower.
Leaving Athalmansvatn a large tract of hummocky ground was crossed,
covered chiefly by _Cassiope hypnoides_, _Empetrum_, Willows, _Salix
lanata_ and _S. herbacea_, Grey Lichens, such as _Cladonia_, and
Mosses. After this our route lay across a piece of the northern desert
land or _Sandr_, which is a barren, sandy, and stony expanse. The soil
was a light brownish loam, and was easily blown about by the wind, and
scattered all over it were large angular or rounded blocks of stone.
_Arabis petræa_ was the only plant occurring in any quantity over this
region, and it formed a very conspicuous feature in the landscape,
growing in rosettes closely adpressed to the soil with the racemes of
flowers growing out horizontally.
As we travelled on in a southerly direction, _Silene acaulis_ appeared
and then a little thrift, _Armeria sibirica_, and the _Arabis_ became
less frequent. Here the soil was more sandy, and the strong wind
blew clouds of dust. Still farther south, _Armeria_ reigned supreme
over the desert; but occasional patches containing _Silene acaulis_,
_Potentilla_, _Cerastium alpinum_, and _Silene maritima_ occurred.
Where the soil became more loamy, _Arabis petræa_ again came in. At the
edge of the desert the willows were seen encroaching on the sand, and
soon a willow and birch (_Betula nana_) scrub was passed through, which
in its turn gave place to moister land with _Empetrum_, _Pedicularis
flammea_, etc.
Near Blandá, _Salir phyllicifolia_ was noticed for the first time.
A good deal of hummocky ground was also passed over, and its
characteristic and invariable features were noticed (_v_. later).
After passing over very rough morainic ground with snow still lying
in patches and quite devoid of vegetation, we reached Hveravellir, a
perfect oasis in the desert. The hot springs and fumaroles occur along
a long line of fissure, and warm up the soil of a considerable tract of
country in their neighbourhood. The effect on the vegetation is most
striking, for a strip of verdant meadow-land occurs in the middle of
bare country, covered in many places with snow at the end of June. All
the flowers occurring there were in a very forward state, and a large
number of different plants were obtained; some spots were yellow with
buttercups, and the ground was carpeted with thyme in full bloom.
_Botrychium lunaria_ occurred in quantity, and a very small variety of
_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, _O. vulgatum_, var. _polyphyllum_, was found
in a warm place. _Selaginella spinosa_ was also abundant.
On the edges of this warm tract barren land occurred and in many places
snow, so that there was a very sharp contrast between the warm and cold
earth; and on the latter the willows were only just coming into leaf.
This tract of country occurs at the edge of the great lava flow from
Strytur.
Towards Strytur the lava was in places covered by "hummocky ground,"
which showed the usual features noticed elsewhere.
The characteristic plants seem invariably to be:--
*_Carex vulgaris_ (_rigida_), a creeping variety.
*_Salix lanata._
*_Salix herbacea._
*_Cassiope hypnoides._
*_Empetrum nigrum_ (very abundant).
*_Vaccinium uliginosum._
_Loiseleuria procumbens._
_Armeria sibirica._
_Silene acaulis_ (not very frequent).
_Bartsia alpina._
_Pedicularis flammea._
*Two or three Lichens, species of _Cladonia_, and a Moss, _Rhacomitrium
lanuginosum_.
Those marked with an asterisk appear to be invariably present, the
others are not so constant, but some are usually found.
Shortly after leaving Hveravellir the watershed of the island was
crossed, and a marked difference in the flora was noticed in the
valley, Thjofadal, on the southern side of the ridge, owing no doubt to
the much greater rainfall which occurs on this, the south-western, side
of the island.
Among plants noticed in this region, which had not been met with
before, were:--
_Draba alpina._
_Cardamine bellidifolia_, and
_Ranunculus pygmæus_ (which grew upright in the valley, but was
prostrate and creeping on the surrounding hillsides).
Fungoid diseases were very prevalent in the valley, and _Saxifraga
cæspilosa_, which was extremely dwarfed on the high ridges, was in many
places badly attacked by a rust fungus.
_Saxifraga cernua_ was also affected by the conditions in this region,
for in other localities north of the watershed all the plants were
found with the usual terminal flower, but here no terminal flower was
developed, and the upright stems bore leaves and bulbils only.
_Epilobium latifolium_ occurred among the stones in the glacier
streams, and a very decumbent form of _Epilobium alpinum_ was common on
the hillsides.
The hills all round were formed of loose morainic matter, the slopes
consisting of fine sandy earth with pebbles, and the vegetation is
distributed on the hillsides in the form of banks and terraces, thus
giving the hills a peculiar appearance with very gentle steps. In
some cases the vegetation has spread and grown over the edges of the
terraces, and by further growth hummocks have been formed.
The formation of hummocky ground on a morainic hillside appears to be
somewhat as follows:--
If conditions, such as snow-line, wind, etc. (on a bare hillside of
sandy and stony ground) permit, isolated plants begin to appear,
and collect soil around them by their prostrate habit of growth and
with their roots; in consequence of the loose nature of the soil,
and owing to the action of snow or water, slipping frequently takes
place, and the plants tend to keep up the earth. As the plants spread,
terraces get formed and the plants bank up the loose earth, and the
mountain-side is then broken up into broad steps. The vegetation
continues to grow over the edges of the terraces, and in consequence
more soil is collected by the plants, and small mounds result, and
later on, if the slope is not too great, true hummocks may be formed.
If the slope is steep, the hummocks are usually flat-topped, but this
is also often due to snow, wind, etc.
The hummocky ground usually seen occurs in fairly level country, and
its origin may probably have been somewhat different from that just
described; the hummocks are from one to two feet high, and the ruts
between are often so narrow that two hummocks have frequently united.
The normal breadth of a hummock is from one to two feet across, and it
is closely covered by _Empetrum_ or _Cassiope_, with _Carex vulgaris_,
the Moss _Rhacomitrium lanuginosum_, and the other plants already
enumerated.
Hummocky ground was also met with in meadows at Gilhagi (near
Maelifell); here they were covered by grass and other meadow-plants,
and _Saxifraga cernua_ grew in masses in the depressions. These
hummocks were on a hillside, and may have been originally formed in the
manner already described; but owing to some change in the snow-line,
meadow-land plants may have wandered up the hillside, and ousted the
characteristic plants of the hummocks.
Our journey from Thjofadal to Gránanes lay for the most part over
the lava-flows from Strytur, which were covered by a close-growing
vegetation, large tussocks of moss, very dwarf _Saxifrages, S.
cæspitosa_, _Empetrum_, _Salix herbacea_, and other plants usually
found on the hummocks. True hummocks were, however, rare.
Near our camp and before the Svatá was reached we came to the end
of the lava and crossed a sandy tract, and the usual change in the
flora was at once noticeable; large clumps of willows bound the sand
together, around which the soil collected, forming mounds, and patches
of _Armeria_, _Arabia petræa_, _Silene_, and _Arenaria_ were scattered
about. In some places the willows were killed by having been buried in
the blown sand.
Between Gránanes and Hvitarvatn the country is at first hummocky, and
then covered by birch and willow scrub. On the hummocks, especially in
the patches of moss, _Saxifraga Hirculus_ was not uncommon. The large
tract of swampy ground at the edge of the lake was covered by masses of
cotton grass. Leaving Hvitarvatn our way lay through willow scrub until
the Hvitá was reached. After crossing the river the ground was very
rough, being composed of morainic matter from the adjacent mountains
and covered with large angular blocks of lava. The only flowers growing
here were _Arenuria_, _Armeria_, _Thymus_ and _Dryas_ in isolated
patches. As we travelled farther south, the plants were noticed to
be taller and more vigorous than those seen in the interior, and the
flora was more home-like in character. _Juniperus_, _Betula odorata_,
_Calluna_, and _Arctostaphylos uva ursi_ were noticed for the first
time.
Both birches (_B. odorata_, _B. nana_) were very plentiful, and from
two to three feet high (in the north _B. nana_ was only six to nine
inches high) willows were not common.
Between Sandá and Gullfoss another small desert area was traversed
where earth-pillars occurred. The plants were hardly able to exist, as
the smaller ones were blown away, and the willows and birches were in
many places buried by the blown sand.
Around Gullfoss the vegetation was luxuriant, _Geum rivale_, _Geranium
sylvaticum_, and _Alchemilla vulgaris_ covered the ground, and
above _Rubus saxatilis_ and _Frugaria vesca_ were abundant, whilst
_Arctostaphylos uva ursi_ also grew in profusion.
At Bratholt we reached civilisation again, and were presented with some
of the lichen from which the orange dye, still used in the island, is
obtained.
Between Geysir and Thingvellir we passed through one of the largest
forests in the island; the hillsides were covered with birch-bushes,
and in places they were quite six feet high; usually they did not rise
to a height of more than three or four feet, and the topmost branches
became entangled in our legs as we rode among the bushes. All four
species of birch were noticed, and the scent of the bruised leaves
was very pleasant. By way of undergrowth, the ground was carpeted
with _Geranium sylvaticum_, _Ranunculus repens_, and large patches of
_Orchis maculata_, etc. It was altogether a beautiful spot, and we
spent nearly four hours wending our way through it. The river Bruará
runs through the middle of this forest.
At Thingvellir _Gentiana nivalis_ was found among other plants.
The rarity of blue flowers in the part of the island visited by us,
and indeed throughout the island, was very striking, as the only other
blue flowers noticed, besides the gentian, were the _Veronicas_, and
the _Myosotis_ and _Viola tricolor_ found at Akureyri, and _Campanula
rotundifolia_ and _Pleurogyne rotata_, which were found on the east
coast on the return journey. _Gentiana campestris_ and _G. nivalis_
were also found on the west coast. _White_, _pale pink_, and _yellow_
were the common colours, white being the predominant. The three
most common orchids, _Habenaria albida_, _Habenaria viridis_, and
_Plantanthera hyperborea_ were green and fairly inconspicuous. Perhaps
the most striking flowers are the large rose-coloured _Epilobium
latifolium_, which grows on bare islands of stones and black sand
in the glacier streams, the yellow _Saxifraga Hirculus_, and _Dryas
octopetala_, which covers vast tracts of country.
Between Thingvellir and Keykjavik is an extensive _Heithi_, over which
we rode rapidly. There appeared to be no features of any special
interest, and as the day was very wet it was not possible to study the
flora carefully. On the beach at Reykjavik _Mertensia maritima_ is a
fairly common plant.
The hot springs at Hveravellir and other places contain large
quantities of algæ, mostly belonging to the blue-green family or
_Cyanophyceæ_. Specimens were collected from various springs at
Hveravellir, Kerlingarfjöll, and Geysir, and the temperature of the
water in which they were growing was carefully recorded. As I was
unable to examine them in detail, I sent them to Professor West of
Cirencester, who has worked through my material and published a paper
on hot-spring algæ in the _Journal of Botany_,[2] in which he gives a
list of all the algæ we brought back from Iceland.
The highest temperature at which algæ were found was 85° C. (185° F.).
Most of the forms found had not been previously recorded from Iceland,
and there was one new species belonging to the genus _Aulosira_, _A.
thermalis_. Full details of these interesting algæ will be found in the
paper to which a reference has been given.
APPENDIX II
A LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED IN THE FAROES AND ICELAND IN JUNE AND JULY
1900
Caltha palustris I. F.
Ranunculus flammula F.
hyperboreus I. Seythisfjord, Kerlingarfjöll.
pygmæus I. Thjofadal.
repens I. F.
Thalictrum alpinum I. F.
Papaver nudicaule I. Near Silfrastathir on screes and
among stones in river bed.
Arabis alpina I. Thjofadal.
petræa I. The desert between Athalmansvatn
and Hveravellir, near Gránanes.
Cardamine bellidifolia I. Thjofadal.
pratensis I. F.
Cochlearia officinalis I. F.
groenlandica I.
Draba alpina I. Thjofadal.
rupestris I.
verna I. F.
incana I. Silfrastathir, etc.
tomentosa I.
Viola cricetorum I. F.
palustris I. F.
tricolor I. Akureyri.
Polygala vulgaris F.
Alsine arctica[3] I. Athalmansvatn, Thjofadal.
Cerastium alpinum I.
trigynum I. Akureyri.
triviale I.
Halianthus peploides F. Klaksvig.
Lychnis flos cuculi F.
Silene acaulis I. F.
Silene maritima I.
Lychnis alpina I.
Stellaria uliginosa I. Seythisfjord.
Arenaria norvegica I.
rubella I.
Montia fontana I. F.
Hypericum pulchrum F. Klaksvig.
Linum catharticum I.
Geranium sylvaticum I. F.
Vicia cracca I. Narfeyri.
Alchemilla alpina I. F.
vulgaris I. F.
Comarum palustre I. F.
Dryas octopetala I. F.
Geum rivale I. F.
Fragaria vesca I.
Potentilla anserina I. Reykholt.
maculata I.
tormentilla I. F.
Rubus saxatilis I. Modruvellir, Gullfoss, etc.
Sibbaldia procumbens I. Athalmansvatn, Hveravellir.
Hippuris vulgaris I.
Epilobium alpinum I. Thjofadal.
latifolium I. Gránanes.
palustre I.
alsinefolium I. Kerlingarfjöll.
Rhodiola rosea I. Thjofadal.
Sedum villosum I.
Saxifraga aizoides I. Vopnafjord.
cernua I. Gilhagi and Thjofadal.
cæspitosa I. F.
Hirculus I.
hypnoides I.
nivalis I.
oppositifolia I.
rivularis I. Thjofadal, Sandá, etc.
stellaris I. F.
Parnassia palustris I. Hveravellir, near Springs, etc.
Angelica sylvestris I.
Hydrocotyle vulgaris I.
Galium boreale I.
uliginosum I. F.
Achillea millefolium I. F.
Bellis perennis I. F.
Erigeron alpinus I.
Gnaphalium norvegicum I. Isafjord, Hveravellir.
supinum I. Isafjord, Hveravellir.
Taraxacum dens leonis I. F.
Campanula rotundifolia I. Vopnafjord, Seythisfjord.
Pyrola media I. Hveravellir, Sandá.
Vaccinium uliginosum I.
Arctostaphylos uva ursi I. Near Thingvellir.
Cassiope hypnoides I. (Especially on hummocky ground.)
Calluna vulgaris I. Near Thingvellir.
Loiseleuria procumbens I. Seythisfjord, Athalmansvatn.
Pinguicula vulgaris I. Hveravellir, near Springs. F.
Gentiana campestris I. Helgafell.
nivalis I. Thingvellir.
Pleurogyne rotata I. Vopnafjord.
Menyanthes trifoliata I. Vopnafjord, etc.
Mertensia maritima I. Reykjavik.
Myosotis arvensis I. Akureyri.
versicolor F.
Bartsia alpina I. (On hummocky ground.)
Euphrasia officinalis et. varr. I. F.
Pedicularis flammea I. Gilhagi, Athalmansvatn.
Rhinanthus minor I. Sandá.
Veronica alpina I.
saxatilis I.
serpyllifolia I. F.
officinalis I.
Thymus serpyllum I. F.
Galeopsis tetrahit I. Geysir.
Prunella vulgaris I. Grund.
Armeria sibirica I.
Plantago maritima I.
Konigia islandica I.
Oxyria digyna I.
Polygonum viviparum I.
Rumex acetosa I.
acetosella I.
Empetrum nigrum I.
Salix glauca I.
herbacea I. F.
lanata I.
phyllicifolia I. S.W. Iceland.
arctica I.
and others, hybrids, etc., which could not be determined.
Betula nana I.
alpestris I.
intermedia I.
odorata I.
Triglochin palustre I.
Corallorhiza innata I. Vopnafjord and Husavik.
Habenaria viridis I. F.
albida I.
Orchis maculata I. F.
Plantanthera hyperborea I.
Tofieldia borealis I.
Juncus balticus I.
trifidus I.
Luzula campestris I.
multiflora I.
spicata I.
Scirpus cæspitosus I.
Carex capillaris I.
rigida I.
vulgaris I. (Common on hummocky ground.)
Elyna spicata I.
Eriophorum capitatum I.
angustifolium I.
Agrostis stolonifer I. Hveravellir.
Aira alpina I.
Elymus arenarius I. Skagastrond.
Festuca ovina I.
Hierochloe borealis I.
Phleum alpinum I.
Poa alpina I.
Anthoxanthum odoratum I.
Juniperus communis, v. nana I. Near Thingvellir.
Selaginella spinosa I. Hveravellir, etc.
Lycopodium alpinum I. Hveravellir. F.
selago I.
Blechnum spicant F.
Cystopteris fragilis I.
Botrychium lunaria I.
Ophioglossum vulgatum,
var. polyphyllum I. Hveravellir.
Equisetum arvense I.
pratense I.
[Illustration: MAP OF ICELAND TO ILLUSTRATE THE AUTHOR'S ROUTE IN 1900]
INDEX OF PLACES
Akrafjall, 129
Akureyri, 24-32, 50, 109, 196, 211, 218, 224
Alftafjord, 168, 170
Almanna-gjá, 107-109
Althing, 107, 116, 118, 119
Arctic Circle, 8, 24, 207
Arhver, 134
Arnarfjord, 155, 182
Arnarvatnsheithi, 122, 143
Ásquidsá, 76
Athalmansvatn, 53, 219
Athalmansvötn, 53
Audakilsá, 132
Barnafoss, 138-140, 143, 151, 153-155
Bathstovukver, 203, 204
Baula, 133, 155, 156, 161
Baula, Little, 155
Beljandi, 56
Berserkjahraun, 172, 176, 178
Berufjord, 214
Biludalr, 182
Bláfell, 83, 85, 88
Blandá, 55, 56, 192, 220
Blonduos, 192, 193
Bone Cave, 143, 146
Bordo, 12, 215
Borgarfjord, 132
Borovig, 13
Bortheyri, 192
Bratholt, 92, 95, 223
Breithifjord, 166, 169, 171, 172, 181, 182
Brgnjudalsá, 127
Bruará, 102, 103
Copenhagen, 1, 118
Dalatangi Point, 17
Deildardalr, 194
Draghals, 130, 132
Draghalsá, 131
Drangey Island, 195
Drapuhlitharfjall, 174
Dufufell, 60, 85
Dyrafjord, 183
Efriskutur, 80, 82
Einarstathir, 199, 200
Eldborg, 163-165
Engey Island, 119
Esja, 123, 124
Eskefjord, 213
Eyjafjord, 25, 29, 32, 196, 197
Eyjafjorthará, 29, 198
Eyri, 187
Eyriks Jökull, 137, 140, 142, 144, 161, 192
Eyvindarlaekur, 200
Fagraskogarfjall, 163, 164
Falakvisl, 69, 82
Faroes, 1, 6, 9, 185, 214, 215, 217
Faskruthsfjord, 214
Faxafloi (or Faxafjord), 156, 166
Ferstikluhals, 129
Fiskivötn, 142, 143
Fjnoská, 198
Flatey, 181
Flateyri, 186
Fljotsheithi, 199
Flokadalsá, 134
Fossá, 127
Framnes, 184
Fremrikot, 40
Geirsholmi, 128
Geitá, 140, 141
Geysir, 95, 97-102, 223, 224
Geysir, Little, 101
Gilhagi, 49, 50, 219, 222
Gilsbakki, 138, 140, 149, 150, 152, 154
Glerá, 31, 32
Gothafoss, 198
Gránanes, 68-70, 79, 80, 222, 223
Gretisbali, 163
Grimsá, 133, 134
Grjotá, 158, 161-163
Grjotardalr, 158
Grjotarvatn, 161
Grund, 132, 133
Gulf Stream, 124
Gullfoss, 80, 89-93, 96, 139, 223
Haffjathurá, 166, 167
Hegranes, 193
Helgafell, 163, 170, 171, 173, 174
Helgastathir, 200
Herradsvötn, 42-44, 47, 48, 194, 195
Hitá, 163, 164
Hitardalr, 163
Hjartharholt, 156, 158
Hoff Jökull, 54, 60, 68, 69, 85, 193
Hofthavatn, 195
Horgá, 32, 33
Horgadalr, 32
Horn, The, 188
Hornstrandr, 188
Hrafna-gjá, 104, 107, 108
Hraun, 183
Hraundalur, 159
Hrutafell, 54, 63, 64, 66-68, 83, 84
Hrutafjord, 192
Hunafjord, 192, 193
Hunafloi, 192, 193
Husafell, 140, 142
Husavik, 24, 25, 196, 198, 204-207, 218
Hvalfjord, 127, 129
Hvammsfjord, 172
Hvamsheithi, 202
Hveravellir, 57, 59, 62, 85, 220, 221, 224
Hvitá, 85, 86, 88, 90, 92, 129, 133, 137, 139, 140-143, 150, 151,
153-155, 223
Hvitarvatn, 60, 79, 80, 82, 83, 85, 90, 223
Icicle Cave, 143, 144, 149, 150
Isafjord, 186-188
Jarlhettur, 91
Jokulvisl, 72, 73
Kaldá, 140, 164, 165
Kalfstindar, 103
Kalmanstunga, 140-142, 145
Kalso, 12, 215
Kalsofjord, 12, 14, 215
Karl rock, 195
Kerling rock, 195
Kerlingarfjöll, 54, 71-76, 78, 79, 82-85, 150, 224
Kjalfell, 54, 68
Kjalhraun, 63, 83
Kjarrá, 155, 156
Klaksvig, 11-13
Kolbeinsdalr, 194
Kolbeinstathafjall, 164
Kolbeinstathir, 165, 166
Kropprmuli, 134
Kuno, 12, 215
Kuvikr, 189
Lagafell, 122
Lang Jökull, 54, 60, 63, 64, 66, 67, 70, 79, 81-83, 85, 90, 108,
122, 140, 141, 161, 192, 193
Langá, 158
Langanes, 23
Langavatn, 160, 161
Laug, 135
Laugarvatn, 103
Laugarvatnshellirar, 103
Laxá, 124, 125, 127, 129, 200, 202
Laxadal, 125
Laxavogr, 125
Leirárvogar, 129
Leiruvogsá, 123
Leith, 1, 3, 215
Lille Dimon, 6, 9
Litlisandr, 52
Ljosavatn, 198
Ljosavatnskarth, 198
Logberg, 107, 109
Lundey Island, 207
Maelifell, 49, 222
Maelifellshnukr, 43, 45, 49, 194
Malmey Island, 195
Mithfjord, 192
Mjofifjord, 17
Mossfell, 122, 123, 129
Mount Tarawera (N.Z.), 58
Muláfjall, 127
Mular, 158
Muli, 200
Murderesses' Pool, 108, 109
Myrkar Jökull, 194
Narfeyri, 168, 169
Nes, 201, 202
North Atlantic Drift, 124
North Cape, 188
North Island (N.Z.), 77
North-West Peninsula, 182, 188, 193
Northfjord, 16, 17, 213
Northingafljot, 142, 143, 149, 150
Northrá, 40-42, 156
Northradal, 41, 42
Northtunga, 155
Nypsfjord, 207
Oddeyri, 27, 31, 32, 198
Onundarfjord, 186
Oxará, 108, 109
Oxnadalr, 33, 218
Oxnadalsá, 33, 40
Patreksfjord, 182
Pink Terraces of N.Z., 58
Rauthamisolkaldá, 167
Rauthimelr, 166
Rauthkollur, 66, 67
Reykholt, 133-137, 139
Reykholtsdal, 137
Reykir, 203, 204
Reykjadalr, 199
Reykjadalsá, 134, 136, 155, 200
Reykjarfjord, 189
Reykjavik, 25, 49, 50, 102, 109-115, 117, 119, 121, 122, 133, 135,
172, 175, 179, 224
Reykjavisl, 203
Reynivallahals, 127
Reynivellir, 125-127
Sandá, 90, 223
Sandfell, 125
Saurar, 174
Sautharkrokr, 193
Seythisfjord, 17, 20, 21, 209, 211-213, 218
Siglufjord, 195
Silfrastathr, 42, 45, 46, 47, 218, 219
Sithumuli, 155
Skagafjord, 194
Skagastrond, 193
Skalafell, 123
Skarthsheithi, 132, 161
Skeljafiall, 54
Skjalfandafljot, 199
Skjalfandi, 24, 207
Skorradalsvatn, 132
Skriflir, 135
Skrutharfell, 83
Skuo, 6
Skutilsfjord, 186
Snaefell Peninsula, 168
Snaefellsnes, 166
South Ronaldshay, 5
Stafholt, 156
Statharhraun, 152, 156, 158, 159, 162, 163
Stathr, 129
Store Dimon, 9
Stori Ás, 137
Strangákvisl, 55
Strokur, 97, 98
Stromo, 9
Strutr, 137, 138, 141, 142
Strytur, 60, 61, 63-66, 68, 82, 83, 221, 222
Stykkisholm, 170-172, 179
Sudero, 6
Sugandisey, 172, 173
Surtshellir Caves, 122, 141-145, 150, 154
Svarfholsmuli, 158-160
Svartá, 48, 49
Svatá, 69, 82, 85, 223
Sviná, 124
Svinadal, 124, 129
Svinaskarth, 124
Thingeyri, 183
Thingvallavatn, 105, 107, 110
Thingvellir, 95, 104-111, 122, 223, 224
Thjofadal, 63, 66, 67, 221, 222
Thjofadalsá, 63
Thjofafell, 68
Thorshavn, 9, 185, 215
Thorvaldsdalsá, 151
Thverá (river), 155
Thverá (in Oxnadal), 35, 37, 218
Thyrill, 127-129
Thyrillsnes, 128
Trangisvaag, 6-8
Tunga, 138, 140, 142, 150
Tungufljot, 97
Tunguhver, 134, 155
Tungusveit, 48
Unadal Jökull, 194
Unadalr, 194
Uxhaver Geyser, 202, 203
Vallholt, 105
Vathlaheithi, 197, 198
Vatnsnes, 192
Veithileysa, 189, 190
Vestmannsvatn, 200
Vestradalsá, 208
Vestri-Skarthsheithi, 156, 158-160, 201
Vopnafjord, 21-23, 207, 208, 218
THE END
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FOOTNOTES:
[1] _Polygonum viviparum_ in the "host" for the Uredo stage of this
fungus, and the disease was noticed on it in several places.
[2] "On some Algæ from Hot Springs," G. S. West, _Journal of Botany_,
July 1902, p. 242.
[3] Not in _Warming's_ list, but given by _Babington_ from Akureyri.