Between Gnarp and the post-house of Dingersj[:o] stands the boundary mark
between Helsingland and Medelpad or Medelpadia, consisting of two posts,
one on each side the road. Here I began to perceive the common Ling,
_Erica_, to grow more scarce, its place being supplied by a greater
quantity of the Bilberry (_Vaccinium Myrtillus_). Birch trees became
more abundant as I advanced. On the left of the road are large mountains
of granite. At the foot of those rocks the whole country was covered
with stones, about twice as large as a man's fist, of a greyish green
colour, lying in heaps, and covered with a fine coating of moss, seeming
never to have been disturbed.
I had scarcely passed the limits of Helsingland, when I perceived a
brace of Ptarmigans (_Tetrao Lagopus_) in the road, but could not get
near enough to fire at them. Viewed through my spying-glass, they
appeared for the most part of a reddish cast, but the wing feathers were
snow-white.
Close by the post-house of Dingersj[:o] grew the large Yellow Aconite
(_Aconitum lycoctonum_), called by the peasants Giske or Gisk. All over
the country through which I passed this day, it is as common as heath or
ling. Not being eaten by any kind of cattle, it grows luxuriantly, and
increases abundantly, in proportion as other herbs are devoured. Thus
Nature teaches the brute creation to distinguish, without a preceptor,
what is useful from what is hurtful, while man is left to his own
inquiries.
To the north of Dingersj[:o], on the right hand of the road, stands a
considerable mountain called Nyaeckers-berg, the south side of which is
very steep. The inhabitants had planted hop-grounds under it. As the hop
does not in general thrive well hereabouts, they designed that this
mountain should serve as a wall for the plants to run upon. They were
not disappointed as to the success of their plantations; for the hops
were very thriving, being sheltered from the cold north wind, and at the
same time exposed to the heat of the sun, whose rays are concentrated in
this spot as in a focus.
At the distance of a quarter of a mile from the post-house, on the left,
stands the highest mountain in Medelpad, according to the inhabitants,
which is called Norby Kullen, or more properly Norby Knylen. It is
indeed of a very considerable height; and being desirous of examining it
more minutely, I travelled to Norby, where I tied my horse to an ancient
Runic monumental stone, and, accompanied by a guide, climbed the
mountain on its left side. Here were many uncommon plants, as _Fumaria
bulbosa minima_, _Campanula serpyllifolia_ (_Linnaea borealis_), _Adoxa
moschatellina_, &c., all in greater perfection than ever I saw them
before. I found also a small rare moss, which I should call _Sphagnum
ramosum_, _capsulis globosis_, _petiolus_ (pedicellis) _longis
erectis_, if it may be presumed a _Sphagnum_, as I saw no calyptra. The
little heads or capsules were exactly spherical[8].
[8] Linnaeus's ideas concerning the genera of Mosses were at this
time in a very unsettled state. Could this be any thing else than
_Bartramia pomiformis_?
After much difficulty and fatigue, we reached the summit of the mountain
to the westward. Here the country-people kept watch during the war with
the Russians, and were obliged to attend twice a day, as this place
commands an extensive sea view. They had collected a great quantity of
wood, on which stood a pole, with a tar-barrel placed transversely on
its top. This was to be set on fire at the landing or approach of the
enemy, being conspicuous for many miles around.
I brought away with me a stone, which seemed of a very compound kind.
Every sort of moss grows on this mountain, that can be found any where
in the neighbouring country. The trees towards the upper part were
small, but some of considerable dimensions grew about the sides of the
hill.
When at the summit, we looked down on the country beneath, varied with
plains and cultivated fields, villages, lakes, rivers, &c. We saw the
appearance of a smoke between us and the lower part of the mountain,
which was not perceptible as we descended, being a slight mist or
exhalation from the ground. The dung of the hare was observable all over
the very highest part of the hill; a certain proof of that animal's
frequenting even these lofty regions.
We endeavoured to descend on the south side, which was the steepest, and
where rocks were piled on rocks. We were often obliged to sit down, and
in that position to slide for a considerable way. Had we then met with a
loose fragment of rock, or a precipice, our lives had been lost. About
the middle of this side of the mountain, an Eagle Owl (_Strix Bubo_)
started up suddenly before us. It was as large as a hen, and the colour
of a woodcock, with black feathery ears or horns, and black lines about
the bill. I wished for my gun, which I had left, finding it too
troublesome to carry up the hill. Immediately afterwards we perceived a
little plat of grass, fronting the south, and guarded, as it were, with
rocky walls on the east and west, so that no wind but from the south
could reach it. Here were three young birds and a spotted egg[9]. Of
these birds one was as large as two fists, healthy and brisk, clothed
all over with very soft long whitish feathers like wool. This we took
away with us to the house. The other two were but half as large. The egg
fell to pieces as I took it up, and contained only a small quantity of a
thin watery fluid, the abominable smell of which I shall not venture to
describe, lest I should excite as much disgust in my readers as in
myself. I believe the two smaller birds were the offspring of the Eagle
Owl. Close to the nest lay a few small bones, of what animal I am
ignorant. These birds were all quite full fed. Near them was a large
dead rat, of which the under side was already putrefied and full of
maggots. I verily believe that these young birds cannot digest flesh,
but are obliged to wait till it decays and affords them maggots and
vermin. Their bills and cere were black. The egg was almost globular,
white, the size of that of a guinea-hen.
[9] So I interpret Linnaeus's cypher in this and another place, which
is _ovum_ [square with dot] _sum_, (ovum maculosum). If I am wrong,
the candid reader will rather compassionate than condemn me; yet
Linnaeus says, a little further on, that the egg was white.
Here and there among the rocks small patches of vegetation were to be
seen, full of variety of herbaceous plants, among others the Heart's
Ease, _Viola tricolor_[10], of which some of the flowers were white;
others blue and white; others with the upper petals blue and yellow,
the lateral and lower ones blue; while others again had a mixture of
yellow in the side petals. All these were found within a foot of each
other; sometimes even on the same stalk different colours were
observable: a plain proof that such diversities do not constitute a
specific distinction, and that the action of the sun may probably cause
them all. There could scarcely be a more favourable place for vegetation
than this, exposed to the sun, sheltered from the cold, and moderately
watered by little rills which trickled down the mountain.
[10] More probably, from the place of growth, as well as the
description, _Viola lutea_ of _Fl. Britannica_, and _English Botany,
vol. 11. t. 721_.
Leaving this mountain, and proceeding further on my journey, I observed
by the road a large reddish stone, full of glittering portions of talc.
The greater part of my way lay near the sea shore, which was bespread
with the wrecks of vessels. How many prayers, sighs and tears, vows and
lamentations, all alas in vain! arose to my imagination at this
melancholy spectacle! It brought to my mind the student[11], who in
going by sea from Stockholm to Abo had experienced so severely the
terrors of the deep, that he rather chose to walk back to Stockholm
through East Bothnia, Tornea, West Bothnia, &c., than trust himself
again to so cruel and treacherous a deity as Neptune.
[11] This was Tillands, afterwards Professor at Abo, who hence
assumed this surname, expressive of his attachment to land, and
Linnaeus named in honour of him a plant which cannot bear wet. See
his _Ord. Nat. 291_.
Towards evening I reached Sundswall, a town situated in a small spot
between two high hills. On one side is the sea, into which a river
discharges itself at this place.
About sunset I came to Finstad, but continued my route the same evening
to Fj[:a]hl, where I was obliged to pass a river by two separate ferries,
the stream being divided by an island.
_May 18._
Being Ascension day, I spent it at this place, partly on account of the
holiday, partly to rest my weary limbs and recruit my strength.
The country bears a great resemblance to Helsingland, but is rather a
more pleasant residence.
I took a walk about the neighbourhood to amuse myself with the beauties
of Flora, which were here but in their earliest spring. I found an
aquatic Violet with a white flower, which very much resembled the large
wild Violet (_Viola canina_), of which I should have taken it for a
variety had I not compared them together. It always grows near the
water. The odd petal, or lip, is always more or less of a blueish
colour; the rest whitish, generally indeed quite white[12]. Close to
this grew the little Marsh Violet, mentioned some time since, (_V.
palustris_, see _p. 20_,) but here it was remarkable for a purplish
tinge; (_V. palustris [beta] Fl. Brit.?_)
This evening it rained very hard.
[12] Linnaeus appears to have neglected to describe this _Viola_ in
his printed works. May it not be _V. lactea_, _Fl. Brit. 247._
_Engl. Bot. vol. 7. t. 445_?
_May 19._
On the following morning I arose with the sun, and took leave of Fj[:a]hl.
Having proceeded about a quarter of a mile, I came within sight of the
next church, called Hasj[:o]. Here I turned to the left out of the main
road, to examine a hill where copper ore was said to be found. The
stones indeed had a glittering appearance, like copper ore; but the
pyrites to which that was owing were of a yellowish white, a certain
indication of their containing chiefly iron. Some stones of a blackish
colour lay about this hill, decomposed by the action of the air. An
opening not more than six feet in breadth, and as much in depth, was the
only examination that had as yet been made into this mine. The mountain
is named Balingsberget.
Not far distant, close to the church on the north-east, a huge stone is
to be seen. The credulous vulgar relate that, when the church was
building, some malignant beings of gigantic size were desirous of
knocking it down, but the stones thrown for that purpose fell short of
the sacred spot. As a confirmation of this history, they show the
evident marks of four huge fingers and a thumb on the upper side of the
stone.
In approaching the next large mountain, called Brunaesberget, I turned
towards the left, and found a cave, formed by Nature in the mountain
itself, resembling an artificial dwelling. The sides, end and roof were
all of stone. The front was open, but much narrower and lower than the
inside, which was so lofty that I could not reach the roof. The entrance
was concealed on the outside by two large trees, a fir and a birch, and
the descent was pretty steep. On the floor lay some burnt stumps of
trees. The neighbouring people informed me that a criminal had concealed
himself for two years in this cavern, its situation being so retired,
and the approach from the road so well fortified by stones piled on
stones, that he remained entirely undiscovered.
On the roof and sides of this cave, near the entrance, the stones were
clothed with a fungous substance, like a sponge in texture, without any
regular form; or rather like the internal medullary part of the Agaric
of the Birch, when dressed for making tinder. It appeared to me quite
distinct from all plants hitherto described. (This is the _Byssus
cryptarum_; _Linn. Fl. Lapp. n. 527_, and _Fl. Suec. n. 1181_.
Succeeding travellers have gathered it here.)
Every where near the road lay spar full of talc, or Muscovy glass,
glittering in the sun.
Now we take leave of Medelpad and its sandy roads, as well as its Yellow
Aconite (_Aconitum lycoctonum_), both which it affords in common with
Helsingland.