[Illustration: Lining in proportion to drapery length.]
2″
TOP 4″ HEM
7″
LINING
3″
2″
Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give
weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A
sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as
the lining fabric.
Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the
crosswise and lengthwise grains.
Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing
a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on
one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.
Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the
fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the
crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in
loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.
To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but
effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then
alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle
it. Press before seaming.
Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam
across the top and sides.
Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem,
1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and
lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in
figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule.
They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the
bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer
or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″
wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower
than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review
section on _Window Measurements_.
To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin
lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top
of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam.
Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched;
then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to
hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch
and press.
[Illustration: Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low
corner.]
[Illustration: Joining lining to drapery.]
RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL
7½″
LINING
[Illustration: Stiffening stitched to heading.]
STIFFENING
1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES
UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure
seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and
press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and
within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side
hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand;
then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2
or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so
that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem
width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside
one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing
first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem
overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″
hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is
held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french
tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem,
then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket
stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at
end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower
side hems.
Use a _sew-on_ or _pin-on_ weight at bottom of center hems.
(See illustration at top of page 22.)
[Illustration: Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.]