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[Illustration: SINGER Sewing Library]
How to Make
Draperies
CONTENTS _page_
_Fabrics_ _3_
_Color and Design_ _7_
_Selection of Needles and Thread_ _8_
_Window Measurements_ _11_
_Construction Details_ _15_
_Measuring for Pleats_ _26_
_Copyright© 1960 by The Singer Company_
_Copyright under International Copyright Union • All Rights Reserved
under Inter-America Copyright Union • No part of this book may be
reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission._
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_Fabrics_
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Drapery fabrics are available to us today in an overwhelming variety for
every decor—not only in the traditional fabrics, but also in the many
new synthetics and blends.
Whether the room is traditional, modern, formal or informal, you need
only visit the drapery fabric department to realize what a wide choice
of fabrics are available in either group.
Windows are so much a part of the background that the fabric chosen, its
texture, color and line, and the design of the curtains, draperies and
slip covers must be in keeping with the atmosphere of the room and
contribute to the over-all effect.
For the very formal treatment, you’ll want to choose something in the
Damask designs, taffetas, moires, brocades, satins, brocatelles or the
many blends of the pure and man-made fibers, some with metallic threads
woven in. Fringes and tassels are used as trims, and the window
treatment would include draped valances, swags, cascades, elaborate
cornices, tie-backs, etc.
For the less formal or informal room, the choice of fabric is even
wider—linens in medium and sheer weights, prints and lacey patterns,
marquisette, scrim, voile, ninon, denim, sailcloth, chintz, polished
cotton, antique satin, organdy, batiste and many blends of synthetics,
such as Fortisan and rayon or silk. The curtain treatment should be
simple. If valances are used, they should be plain with straight lines.
Many of the new synthetic fibers are a real advantage to the home-maker
because of their easy washing and quick drying properties. Some require
very little pressing, if any.
In estimating the yardage required, consider the length of the drapery,
before finishing hems and heading, and the width of the window or space
to be covered. An allowance of 2½ or 3 times the width should be made
for fullness. When using sheer fabrics, draperies should be full enough
to hang in easy, graceful folds. Over-curtains or draperies of medium
weight fabrics require a fullness of 2 to 2½ times the width. Also, if
you select a fabric with a large one-way design, some allowance should
be made for matching the design so all lengths will balance.
_For example:_ The window is 64″ wide which requires 4 widths of 48″
wide fabric for a 3 to 1 fullness. The drapery lengths are 2⅓ yards
long. If a plain fabric or overall design is used, the fabric required
would be 9⅓ yards, but if the fabric has a 24″ repeat pattern, you must
allow 1⅓ yards more, or a total of 10⅔ yards for matching the design.
Consider the width of the fabric when figuring the number of widths for
fullness. Some fabrics are only 36″ wide—chintz and some polished
cottons, for example. Others may run 40″—48″—even 54″ or 60″ in width;
but the average is about 48″ wide.
[Illustration: Grain lines of fabric.]
⇐Crosswise Grain—Weft or Filling⇒
⇐Lengthwise Grain—Warp⇒
⇐True Bias⇒
Draperies must be cut on the true lengthwise and crosswise grain of the
fabric so that when hung, they fall straight from the rod in even,
graceful folds.
In weaving, yarns are threaded lengthwise on a loom which form the warp
of the fabric. Another yarn is interlaced back and forth crosswise and
is called the weft or filling thread. This is known as the plain weave.
Linen, voile, chintz, etc., are a few of the plain woven fabrics. There
are variations of the plain weave, such as the pile weave, with
velveteen and corduroy as examples. The basket weave is another, with
Monk’s cloth as an example. The diagonal line halfway between the
lengthwise and crosswise threads is the bias of the fabric.
The twill weave is perhaps one of the most durable. The filling yarn
forms a diagonal line, passing over one warp yarn and under two or more.
Denim, drill cloth and ticking are examples of this weave.
The satin weave is an irregular weave where one yarn passes over several
yarns of the other set before interweaving, forming a floating, lustrous
surface.
Weaves are used in combinations to obtain the various patterns in
Damasks, brocades, Jacquards, etc.
[Illustration: Cutting on true crosswise grain.]
The yarns made from the different fibers—the natural, man-made and
blended fibers—are of various sizes, weights, smoothness and fuzziness.
The type of yarns used in the different weaves influences the texture of
the fabric as well as its weight, lustre and durability.
When cutting drapery lengths, be sure to start with a true crosswise
grain. Most firmly woven plain weave fabrics can be torn. Snip the
selvage before you tear the fabric. Linens, loosely woven and nubby
fabrics, novelty weaves and many others will not tear satisfactorily. To
straighten these, it is necessary to pull a thread crosswise and cut on
pulled line.
After cutting lengths, check to see if the ends of the fabric are
square. If not, square the crosswise edge by pulling the low corner on a
true bias from opposite side of the fabric. Sometimes dampening the
fabric will relax the threads and make straightening easier.