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LETTERS
ON
THE NICOBAR ISLANDS,
THEIR NATURAL PRODUCTIONS,
AND
_The Manners, Customs, and Superstitions of the_
NATIVES;
With an Account of an Attempt made by
THE CHURCH OF THE UNITED BRETHREN,
TO CONVERT THEM TO
CHRISTIANITY.
Addressed by
_THE REV. JOHN GOTTFRIED HAENSEL,_
(_The only surviving Missionary_)
TO
THE REV. C. I. LATROBE.
_LONDON_:
PRINTED FOR THE EDITOR, NO. 10, NEVIL'S COURT, FETTER LANE,
BY W. McDOWALL, PEMBERTON ROW.
AND SOLD BY
HATCHARD, 190, PICCADILLY; L. B. SEELEY, 169, FLEET STREET;
JOHN LE FEBVRE, CHAPEL PLACE, NEVIL'S COURT;
BINNS AND HAZARD, CHEAP STREET, BATH;
AND MARTIN KEENE, DUBLIN,
1812.
TO
_William Wilberforce, Esq. M.P._
&c. &c. &c.
DEAR SIR,
Your obliging inquiries concerning the attempt made by the Church of
the United Brethren, to establish a mission in the Nicobar Islands, I
have not been able hitherto to answer as fully as I wished, the
documents in my possession being few and unconnected, and a reference
to Crantz's History of the Brethren, p. 504 and 614, furnishing but a
short notice of the commencement of that undertaking. The difficulty
attending our correspondence with our Brethren on the Continent, has
likewise so much increased, that I cannot expect to be soon supplied
with more detailed accounts from our archives; and the continuation of
Crantz's History, in which a concise report of the progress of the
mission is inserted, is not translated into English. I was glad
therefore unexpectedly to meet with an opportunity of conversing with
John Gottfried Haensel, a missionary from St. Thomas in the West
Indies, who was formerly employed in the Nicobar mission, and resided
for seven years in the island of Nancauwery. This worthy veteran has
spent eighteen years in the East, and seventeen in the West Indies, and
altogether thirty-eight years in the service of the Brethren's
missions; yet by God's blessing, after suffering numberless hardships
and dangerous illnesses, at the age of sixty-three he remains a most
active, cheerful, and zealous labourer in the Lord's vineyard.
In the course of our frequent conversations on various subjects,
relating to the occurrences of his past life, he interspersed so many
curious and interesting particulars concerning his residence in the
Nicobar Islands; that I could not help requesting him to commit them to
writing, as they might occur to his recollection. This he very
obligingly consented to do; and though, by my particular desire, he did
not study to make out a complete history, the labour and formality of
which might have suppressed, in a great degree, the liveliness of his
manner, but left the arrangement of the subjects to me; yet I am of
opinion, that you will read what he has written with pleasure, and
esteem these fragments worthy of preservation. Many of your questions
will be pretty satisfactorily answered by them, and I have therefore
translated them for your perusal. They exhibit a degree of patience and
perseverance in the prosecution of missionary labours, in hope against
hope, such as has hardly been exceeded in our Greenland and North
American missions, with the history of which you are acquainted.
The mission of the United Brethren in the Nicobar Islands, was
undertaken in the year 1758. A person of high rank at the court of
Denmark, having intimated to the directors of the Brethren's missions,
that it would give particular pleasure to the King, if some of their
missionaries would settle on the Nicobar Islands, and endeavour to
instruct the inhabitants in the principles of the Christian religion;
they resolved to comply with his Majesty's wishes.
A commercial establishment had been formed on these islands in 1756,
when the name of Frederic's Islands was given to them; but the first
attempt miscarried, and almost all the colonists sent thither from
Tranquebar, soon died. The Brethren, however, were not discouraged.
After some negociation with the Danish Asiatic company, having obtained
an edict, granting them necessary privileges to preach the gospel to
the heathen, and to maintain their own church-discipline and worship,
they agreed to begin the work, and several Brethren offered themselves
for this service. The names of the first missionaries were George John
Stahlman, Adam Gottlieb Voelcker, and Christopher Butler. They arrived
July 2, 1760, at Tranquebar, and were received by the Governor and all
the inhabitants, with much cordiality.
As an establishment on the coast of Coromandel, was found indispensably
necessary to support the new mission, they bought a piece of ground,
about a mile from Tranquebar, built a house, with out-houses and
work-shops, and maintained themselves by their several trades. This
settlement was called _The Brethren's Garden_.
A second company followed them in the same year. According to
directions given by the Brethren in Europe, they carefully avoided all
interference with the worthy Lutheran missionaries residing at
Tranquebar, by whose pious exertions many Malabars had been converted
to Christianity.
The Danish East India company, not being able to renew their settlement
in the Nicobar islands as soon as was expected, offers were made to the
Brethren by the English Governor of Bengal, to settle on the Ganges;
but they resolved to wait with patience for an opportunity to prosecute
their first plan, and obtain the original aim of their mission to the
East Indies. This presented itself in 1768, when the Danish government
formed a new establishment in the Nicobar islands. Six Brethren were
immediately ready to go thither. They settled on Nancauwery.
In 1769, several officers of the company, with a party of soldiers and
black servants, arrived from Tranquebar, and brought with them a
considerable quantity of merchandize. But they died so fast, that in
1771 only two European soldiers, and four Malabar servants survived.
This second failure deterred the company from repeating their attempt,
and the project of establishing a factory in the Nicobar islands was
abandoned. The four Brethren residing there were charged with the sale
of the remaining goods, and experienced no small inconvenience and
trouble from this commission.
In 1773, however, a vessel was sent from Tranquebar, which relieved
them, by taking back the articles of trade left on hand, and bringing
them the provisions they wanted.
As the means of thus supplying the missionaries with the necessaries of
life, by uncertain communications with Tranquebar, were too precarious,
the Brethren resolved to venture upon annually chartering a vessel for
that purpose. Mr. Holford, an English gentleman, residing at
Tranquebar, rendered them herein the most essential service. He joined
them in fitting out a small ship, which arrived in 1775, with
provisions, &c. at Nancauwery, and returned with the produce of the
country; the sale of which, however, by no means repaid the expence
attending the outfit. Mr. Holford, nevertheless, did not lose his
courage. Another vessel was fitted out, and sailed in 1776, but having
missed the entrance into the Nicobar islands, after long combating
contrary winds and currents, she was obliged to cast anchor near
Junkceylon, where she deposited her cargo. A third vessel had meanwhile
set out for Nicobar, but was equally unsuccessful. Thus the
difficulties attending the support of the settlement increasing, this
and other causes, mentioned in the course of the following letters,
occasioned the final abandonment of the mission in 1787.
You will however perceive, that Mr. Haensel expresses an opinion
concerning future attempts to preach the gospel to the natives of the
Nicobar islands, which is by no means discouraging.
With the sincerest esteem and gratitude for the many proofs you have
given of your kind notice of the labours of the Church of the United
Brethren among heathen nations,
I remain ever,
Dear Sir,
Your most obliged,
and most faithful friend
and servant,
_C. I. Latrobe._
LONDON, _May_ 12, 1812.
LETTERS
ON
THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.
LETTER I.
As you have desired me to repeat, in writing, the substance of our
conversations respecting the Nicobar Islands, and the mission of the
Brethren, begun there in 1758, in which I was employed from the year
1779, till the attempt was relinquished in 1787; I will endeavour, as
far as my recollection will enable me, to satisfy your wishes.
The Nicobar Islands are situated at the entrance of the Bay of Bengal,
in 8 deg. N. latitude, and 94 deg. 20" E. longitude, north of Sumatra.
Nancauwery is one of the southernmost, and forms, with _Comarty_[1] to
the north, a commodious harbour, sheltered to the eastward by a long,
but narrow island, called _Tricut_, flat, and abounding in cocoa trees;
and to the westward, by _Katsoll_, which is larger. Ships may ride here
very safely.
[1] See Asiatic Researches, Vol. II. 344, III. 292, IV. 132, 328.
Rennel's Memoir, p. 40. Comarty is called Sampieri, in Mr.
Haensel's MSS. and Sombrero in a French chart.
On the north-west point of Nancauwery, behind a low hill, and
contiguous to the best landing-place, on a sandy beach, lay the
missionary-settlement of the United Brethren, called by the natives,
_Tripjet_, or the dwelling of friends, where I arrived in January 1779,
in company of Brother Wangeman. On our passage hither we were driven by
contrary winds to Queda, on the Malay coast. Here we immediately
inquired for Captain Light, having often heard at Tranquebar, that he
was well disposed towards the Brethren and their missions, of which he
had received some account from Dr. Betschler. We were soon conducted to
his dwelling, where we met with a most cordial reception. Being here
without any other recommendation, his friendship and kindness proved
most gratifying and useful to us. Never have I had it in my power to
make any returns to this excellent man, for his disinterested favours,
but I shall retain a never-ceasing remembrance of them in a thankful
heart, and pray the Lord to bless and reward him. His wife was a Malay,
and a relation of the King of Queda, a worthy woman, middle aged, of
great urbanity of manners, and better informed than the generality of
her nation. Her countenance was pleasing, she appeared friendly and
good tempered, and rendered us many kind services, which will not go
unrewarded.
Captain Light expressed his great surprise, at the courage, or rather
simplicity, with which I committed myself to the crew of a Malay boat.
For as we had lost our boat, and the road in which ships come to an
anchor off Queda is above two leagues from the shore, we were at a loss
how to work into the harbour with our little schooner, without a pilot.
A Malay palong passing, I hailed her, and asked the people whether they
would take me on shore. They consented, and I went with them. On
hearing this, Captain Light observed, that though he was able to speak
their language, and accustomed to their manners, he should not venture
to trust himself alone with them, on account of their treacherous
character. I replied, "that I never thought of being afraid of any one,
to whom I had done no harm." This speech he used to quote, but
observed, that among these people I might find myself mistaken.
After our vessel had been brought in by Captain Light's good offices,
we were detained some time at Queda, which afforded me an opportunity
of becoming a little acquainted with the town and the adjacent country.
The inhabitants are chiefly Malays; but the right side of the river is
inhabited by Siamese, Chinese, and a few Roman-catholic Christians. The
Malays are all Mahometans, a false-hearted, cruel, and murderous race;
so much so, that it is hardly safe for a stranger to suffer them to
follow him, for fear of being slyly stabbed. When they are obliged to
walk before others, they are suspicious and cowardly, and can hardly
speak for fear. The frequent murders committed by them are all by a
treacherous attack from behind. They consider themselves much better
than their neighbours, and very righteous, because they _ought not_ to
eat pork, or drink strong liquors. But they supply the want of the
latter by taking great quantities of opium, which stupifies their
senses. I saw one of their principal people, during a conversation with
me, put three or four pills of opium, as large as a grey pea, into his
mouth in the space of a quarter of an hour. They are exceedingly
addicted to the vilest lusts, and have no sense of shame in gratifying
their passions. Polygamy is common among them. Yet with all their
vices, they like to brag of their having the true faith. The Chinese,
though more industrious, are not more virtuous; and as to the so-called
Christians, I will not judge them.
About four or five leagues up the river, the King of Queda has his
residence, in a mean-looking town called _Allessaar_. Many of the
inhabitants are Chinese, who have here a large temple; the rest are
Malays. The royal palace resembles a spacious farm-house and yard, with
many low houses attached to it, which contain his haram. His own house
is far from being magnificent, and it seemed to me, as if his whole
dignity and state consisted merely in the number of his concubines.
There is else no appearance of grandeur. I frequently made an excursion
to this place.
Being at last enabled to proceed, we set sail for Nancauwery. The
Captain steered first for Pulo Penang, (now Prince of Wales island)
pretending that he wanted fresh water; but he employed his Lascars
chiefly to cut rattan[2], a plant used for rigging. We were glad at
length to leave the Malay coast, where, except our cordial reception
and hospitable entertainment in Captain Light's house, there was
nothing that could be called pleasant, but rather our spirits were
vexed, and daily mourned over the shocking state of mankind, without
Christ and without God in the world.
[2] Calamus Rotang. Lin. Miller's Gard. Dictionary.
We found at Nancauwery three Missionaries, Liebisch, Heyne, and
Blaschke. The latter being very ill, returned to Tranquebar by the
vessel which brought us hither, and soon departed this life. Not long
after his return, Brother Liebisch fell sick and also departed. Our
number was therefore reduced to three, and I was soon seized with so
violent a fit of the seasoning fever, that my Brethren, expecting my
immediate dissolution, commended me in prayer to the Lord, and took a
final leave of me. After this transaction, I fell into a swoon, which
being mistaken for death, I was removed from the bed, and already laid
out as a corpse, when I awoke and inquired what they were doing, and
why they wept? They told me, that, supposing me to be quite dead, they
were preparing for my burial. My recovery was very slow; and indeed,
during my whole residence in Nancauwery, I never regained perfect
health.
After the decease of the Brethren Wangeman and Liebisch, I was left
alone with Brother Heyne. We were both ill, and suffered the want of
many necessaries of life: but the Lord our Saviour did not forsake us;
He strengthened our hearts, and comforted us by such a lively sense of
His divine presence, that we were frequently filled with heavenly joy,
during our daily prayers and meditations. We felt assured, that that
God, who suffers not a sparrow to fall to the ground without His
permission, would also care for us his poor children. This I have
frequently and powerfully experienced, insomuch, that after seven years
residence in Nancauwery, notwithstanding all the pain, trouble, and
anxiety I was often subject to, I fall down at His feet with humble
thanksgiving, and exclaim: The Lord hath done all things well, and I
have lacked no good thing. Blessed be my God and Redeemer! Amen.
LETTER II.
The vessel sent to Nancauwery did not arrive till 1781, and brought a
very small portion of provisions for our use, and neither wine, nor any
other liquors whatever, the crew having expended the greater part of
what was destined for us on their long voyage, and during a detention
of four months at Queda, on the Malay coast. We were, however, happy to
receive Brother Steinman, who was young, lively, and every way
qualified for the service, so that we promised ourselves much
assistance from him; but in less than a month after his arrival, it
pleased the Lord to take him from us by death. You may suppose what we
felt on being again left alone, in want of even the most necessary
articles of subsistence. But the Lord yet helped us, gave us from day
to day our daily bread, and in many heavy illnesses approved Himself as
our best physician. Oh! how many thousand tears have I shed during that
period of distress and trouble. I will not affirm that they were _all_
of that kind, which I might, with David, pray the Lord "to put into his
bottle," and ask, "are they not in thy book," for I was not yet fully
acquainted with the ways of God with His people, and had not yet a
heart wholly resigned to all His dealings. Oftentimes self-will,
unbelief, and repining at our hard lot, was mixed with our complaints
and cries unto Him. Do not therefore think them so very pure, and
deserving of pity as they may seem. Thus much, however, I can truly
say, that amidst it all, our Saviour was the object of our hearts'
desire; and He beheld us with longsuffering and compassion.
We were as diligent as our wretched circumstances would admit, in
clearing land and planting, to obtain what we wanted for our support;
and having only three negroes to cook, wash, and do other jobs, we
frequently laboured beyond our strength, and brought upon ourselves
various illnesses. But there seemed no help for it. At the same time we
exerted ourselves to learn the Nicobar language, and in the best manner
possible endeavoured to explain to the poor natives, the love of God in
Christ Jesus, and the way of salvation through a crucified Saviour.
Not till 1783, had we the satisfaction to see the Brethren J. Heinrich,
Fleckner, and Raabs arrive to our assistance, in company of the mate of
the vessel, with which they set sail from Tranquebar. While they were
lying in the roads of Junkceylon, a French privateer came and claimed
her as lawful prize, because, on searching her, he found a few old
English newspapers in a trunk belonging to Mr. Wilson, an English
gentleman on board, who had escaped from Hyder Ali's prison. This was
pretence sufficient for a Frenchman to seize upon a neutral Danish
vessel, nor could any redress be ever procured, to the great loss of
the Mission. After long and vexatious detention, the mate and the three
Brethren purchased a Malay prow, for 75 dollars, and stole off in the
night; as the Malay prince would not suffer them to go. Thus we
received, instead of our expected stock of provisions, only more mouths
to feed. However, we rejoiced to see our dear fellow-missionaries, and
did what we could for their relief. As the prow was unfit to go to sea
without proper sails, those with which they arrived being nothing but
old, rotten mats, we worked up our whole stock of linen and sailcloth,
and even some of our sheets, and were ten days employed in making
sails, and fitting her for the voyage. A black sailor was also
procured, and the mate, with the Brethren Raabs and Heyne, left us for
Tranquebar. I cannot describe my feelings, when I took a final leave of
my dear Brother Heyne, with whom I had so long shared weal and woe,
lived in true brotherly love and union of spirit, and enjoyed so much
of our Lord's help and comfort, in days of perplexity and distress.
The three following years of my stay were spent in fruitless attempts
to preach the gospel to the natives, and the arrangements proposed and
made by the new-comers, seemed all to fail. But I cannot help
observing, that when we speak of the total failure of our endeavours to
promote the conversion of the natives, we have cause, in a great
degree, to blame ourselves. For my part, I must confess with humble
shame, that I soon lost my faith and courage, brotherly love having
ceased to prevail amongst us; for how can Missionaries speak, with
effect, of the love of Jesus, and its fruits in the heart, when they
themselves do not live in the enjoyment of it? It is true, our trials
were great, and the prospect, in many respects, most gloomy; but we
have seen in other instances, what the Lord can do, by removing
obstacles, and giving strength to His servants, if they are one in
spirit, pray and live together in unity, and prefer each other in love.
This was too much wanting during the latter part of our abode in the
Nicobar islands, and O that all Missionaries would remember, that
brotherly love is the most precious jewel in a Mission; and that no
sacrifice of one's own opinions and schemes is too great, to maintain
it unbroken.
Our external situation became more and more irksome, and we could
scarcely procure the means of subsistence. My health had suffered so
much by continual sickness, anxiety, and hard labour, (for the greater
part of the management of affairs fell upon me), that I was apparently
fast approaching my end; at the thoughts of which I rejoiced greatly,
delivered my accounts, and all my concerns, into the hands of Brother
J. Heinrich, looking forward with longing to be at rest with Jesus. I
felt his comfort, pardon, and peace in my soul, and hoped, that every
day would be my last. I had running sores on my legs, and a total
obstruction, with tormenting pains in my bowels, and expected that
mortification would soon take place, and put an end to my misery.
Unexpectedly, a Danish vessel arrived in our harbour, on board of which
was Brother Sixtus. He was commissioned to examine into the state of
the Mission, and to bring home such as were still alive.
A voyage seeming to offer the only hope for my recovery. I was conveyed
on board, apparently in a dying state, and set sail the same day for
Queda. During the voyage, the pain in my bowels was excruciating, and
the motion of the ship afforded me no relief, insomuch, that I could
bear no other posture than lying prostrate on deck. In this situation
it occurred to me, that I had once read in Van Swieten's account of his
cures, that he had found the plentiful use of honey beneficial in cases
of obstruction. As soon, therefore, as we landed, I procured a
sufficient quantity, and mixed it plentifully with my food and drink.
My only nutriment indeed consisted of rice boiled in water, to which I
added an equal quantity of honey, as also to all the water I drank,
cold or warm, of which I took plenty, having a constant thirst upon me.
Already, on the first day, it operated by sickness at my stomach, and
frequent vomitings, which rendered its taste extremely nauseous, and
unpleasant. But perceiving that it also relieved my principal
complaint, I persevered, and experienced daily more of its salutary,
cooling, and healing effects. As there is plenty of honey at Queda, I
laid in a large stock for the voyage.
Here I became acquainted with Mr. Scott, an English captain, who
informed me that Captain Light was in Bengal, and had lost his wife by
death. From hence we returned to Nancauwery, where I found that Brother
Sixtus had departed this life, ten days after my leaving the island.
Brother J. Heinrich accompanied me to Tranquebar, and Fleckner remained
alone.
When we arrived at Tranquebar, we represented to the governor, that it
was necessary, that the vessel should immediately return for the relief
of the Mission, to which he agreed; and Fleckner being re-called, the
Brethren J. Heinrich, Rudolphi, and Soerensen, were sent thither in May
1785. The latter soon departed this life, as likewise Fleckner, at
Tranquebar. In September, I returned to Nancauwery, being commissioned
to convey the house belonging to the Imperial settlement on Sombrero
(Comarty) to our place, which I accomplished. Our old stone house was
turned into a magazine, and the Missionaries obtained a comfortable
dwelling, and a sufficient supply of provisions, and other necessaries.
But as to any success in making the natives acquainted with the gospel,
all our exertions seemed in vain.
After my return to Tranquebar, in 1786, Brother Rudolphi left Nicobar,
and arrived, after a long and tedious voyage, at Tranquebar, in 1787.
Not long after, Brother J. Heinrich departed this life, and Brother
Kragh remained alone.
The loss of so many valuable men, the total failure of the object of
the Mission, and the want of proper Brethren, willing to devote
themselves to so hopeless a cause, at length prevailed, and it was
resolved to give up the Mission. I was again deputed to go to
Nancauwery, to fetch Brother Kragh, and all effects belonging to the
Mission, and to deliver up the premises to the Governor, who, on our
representation of the impracticability of our supporting the Mission
any longer, had consented to send a lieutenant, a corporal, and six
privates, to take possession. I accompanied these people, and delivered
to them every thing I could not carry away.
Words cannot express the painful sensations which crowded into my mind,
while I was thus executing the task committed to me, and making a final
conclusion of the labours of the Brethren in the Nicobar Islands. I
remembered the numberless prayers, tears, and sighs offered up by so
many servants of Jesus, and by our congregations in Europe, for the
conversion of the poor heathen here; and when I beheld our
burying-ground, where eleven of my Brethren had their resting-place, as
seed sown in a barren land, I burst into tears, and exclaimed: Surely
all this cannot have been done in vain! Often did I visit this place,
and sat down and wept at their graves.
My last farewell with the inhabitants, who had flocked to me from all
the circumjacent islands, was very affecting. They wept and howled for
grief, and begged that the Brethren might soon return to them. We
always enjoyed their esteem and love, and they do not deserve to be
classed with their ferocious neighbours, the Malays; being, in general,
kind and gentle in their dispositions, except when roused by jealously,
or other provocations; when their uncontrolled passions will lead them
into excesses, as some of the Danish soldiers experienced. We always
found them ready to serve us.
LETTER III.
I proceed to answer the questions you have put to me, and to give you
some short account of the appearance of the country in the Nicobar
Islands, and the customs of the inhabitants.
The most of these islands are hilly, and some of the mountains of
considerable height: but Tricut, Tafouin, and Kar Nicobar, are flat,
and covered with forests of cocoa trees. The other islands have
likewise a large proportion of cocoa and areca palms, and an immense
quantity of timber trees of various kinds, some of them of enormous
size. All the vallies and sides of the hills, to a considerable height,
are thickly covered with them, insomuch, that the light of the sun has
not been able for ages to penetrate through their foliage. They are in
many places so closely interwoven with immense quantities of rattan and
bush-rope, that they appear as it were spun together; and it is almost
perfectly dark in the woods. Most of the plants and trees bear fruit,
which falls down and rots. All these circumstances contribute to render
the climate very unhealthy, the free current of air being wholly
impeded; even the natives experience their baneful effects, but, to a
European constitution, they are of the most dangerous nature.
I am no botanist, and can therefore give you but little information
concerning the different species of trees, shrubs, and plants, which
seem to thrive here in such luxurious abundance; but will only add,
that that most useful of all trees, the cocoa, is of very easy growth,
and thrives best on the sea coast, where its roots and stem are reached
by the flood-tide. The nut, falling into the sand, is soon covered by
it, and springs up in great strength. I have planted many, and enjoyed
the fruit after five years. When the nuts are ripe, you hang them about
the house: in a short time they shoot out sprigs and branches, and when
these are about a yard long, you may put them into the ground, where
they continue to vegetate rapidly.
Another most beautiful and valuable tree is the Mango, the fruit of
which is extremely useful, both for eating and medicinal purposes. The
eatable part is inclosed in a shell, which lies in a thick, pulpy rind,
Its taste is spicy, very grateful, betwixt sour and sweet, and so
wholesome, that there is hardly any fear of eating too plentifully of
it. The shell is bitter and astringent, and the Nicobar doctors, or
sorcerers, administer a decoction of it against fevers and agues, to
which they, as well as strangers, are much subject.
There is also a vast variety of roots, fruits, and herbs, with the
medicinal virtues of which the sorcerers are well acquainted. They are,
no doubt, noticed by various authors, but I am not able to describe
them.
As to the beasts and reptiles existing in these islands, I shall only
mention what has come under my own observation, and remains in my
recollection. There are no wild beasts here, such as tygers and
leopards, as on the coast of Coromandel. Monkies are found in the
southernmost islands, Sambelong, Tavap, and Katsoll. In some others are
large herds of buffaloes and other cattle, originally brought thither
by the Danes, but which have run wild in the woods, since the
abandonment of the colony. They have increased prodigiously; and as the
upper regions of the mountains are covered with vast quantities of fine
grass, they find food in abundance, and grow to a large size,
especially the buffaloes. These are always seen in herds, and I never
ventured to shoot any, though I longed to procure some of their flesh
for our use. Dogs and swine are found in all the islands.
Serpents are numerous in some places, but they are far less abundant
and venomous, than on the coast of Coromandel. The chief cause of this
difference I am apt to ascribe to a custom, prevalent among the
natives, of setting the long grass on the mountains on fire, two or
three times a-year. As these reptiles like to lay their eggs in the
grass, great quantities of them are thus destroyed. One kind of serpent
struck me here as a singular species; it is of a green colour, has a
broad head and mouth like a frog, very red eyes, and its bite is so
venomous, that I saw a woman die within half an hour after receiving
the wound. She had climbed a high tree in search of fruit, and not
observing the animal among the branches, was suddenly bitten in the
arm. Being well aware of the danger, she immediately descended, but, on
reaching the ground, reeled to and fro like one in a state of
intoxication. The people brought her immediately to me; and while I was
applying blisters and other means for extracting the poison, she died
under my hands.
I saw but few scorpions, but among them an unusually large species, of
a red colour, said to be extremely venomous. They were lying in a boggy
place, and I had no means of taking them.
One of the most formidable animals with which these islands abound, is
the crocodile, or alligator. Kar Nicobar is overrun with them, as are
all the other Nicobar islands, which have fresh-water lakes and
streams. They are of two kinds, the black kayman, and the proper
crocodile. The latter is said never to attack live creatures, but to
devour only carrion, and is therefore not considered dangerous. Of the
correctness of this opinion I had once ocular proof. I was walking at
Queda along the coast, and looking at a number of children swimming and
sporting in the water. On a sudden, I observed a large crocodile
proceed towards them from a creek. Terrified at the idea of the danger
they were exposed to, I screamed out, and made signs to some Chinese to
go to their assistance, but they laughed me to scorn as an ignorant
stranger. I really afterwards saw the monster playing about among them,
while the children diverted themselves by pretending to attack him and
drive him away. The kayman is less in size, and very fierce, seizing
upon every creature that has life, but he cannot lift anything from the
ground, as the lower jaw projects.
The bats of Nicobar are of a gigantic size; I have seen some, whose
outstretched wings measured from five to six feet across the back, the
body being the size of a common cat. They are of two kinds; the head of
one somewhat resembling a dog, and that of the other a cat; the former
making a barking, and the latter a mewing noise, when on the wing. I
never saw more than one at a time. They appear hideous, and in their
solitary flight resemble a cloak in motion, chiefly and awkwardly
perching upon the mango tree, the fruit of which they eat, breaking
down the smaller branches, till they light upon such as are able to
bear their weight.
Of birds, I shall only notice one, called by some the Nicobar
swallow[3], but I will not venture to determine its generic character.
It is the builder of those eatable nests, which constitute one of the
luxuries of an Indian banquet. These birds are called _Hinlene_ by the
natives, and build in fissures and cavities of rocks, especially in
such as open to the south. In the latter, the finest and whitest nests
are found, and I have sometimes gathered fifty pound weight of them, on
one excursion for that purpose. They are small, and shaped like
swallows' nests. If they are perfect, 72 of them go to a _catty_, or
1-3/4 pounds. The best sale for them is in China. After the most
diligent investigation, I was never able fully to discover of what
substance they are made, nor do any of the opinions of naturalists,
with which I have become acquainted, appear satisfactory to me, neither
have the authors alluded to ever seen the birds. They have remarkably
short legs, and are unable to rise, if they once fall or settle on the
ground. I caught many in this state, and after examining them, threw
them up into the air, when they immediately flew away; they cannot
therefore, as some suppose, obtain their materials on the coast, or
from rocks in the sea. My opinion is, that the nests are made of the
gum of a peculiar tree, called by some the Nicobar cedar, and growing
in great abundance in all the southern islands. Its wood is hard,
black, and very heavy. From December to May, it is covered with
blossom, and bears a fruit somewhat resembling a cedar or pine-apple,
but more like a large berry full of eyes or pustules, discharging a gum
or resinous fluid. About these trees, when in bloom or bearing fruit, I
have seen innumerable flocks of these little birds, flying and
fluttering like bees round a tree or shrub in full flower, and am of
opinion, that they there gather the materials for their nests. I relate
the fact, having often watched them with great attention, but will not
venture to affirm, that I have made a full discovery. I observed
before, that these birds dwell in cavities of rocks, like bees in a
hive, flying in and out, and building their nests close together, like
martins or swallows. The hen constructs a neat, large, well-shaped
nest, calculated for laying and hatching her eggs, and the cock
contrives to fix another, smaller and rather more clumsy, close to his
mate: for they are not only built for the purpose of laying eggs, but
for resting-places, whence they may take wing. If they are robbed of
them, they immediately fall to work to build others, and being
remarkably active, are able to finish enough in a day to support the
weight of their bodies, though they require about three weeks to
complete a nest. During the north-east trade wind, they are all alive
and fly about briskly, but as soon as the wind comes round to the
south-west, they sit or lie in their nests in a state of stupor, and
show animation only by a kind of tremulous motion over their whole
body. I have sometimes taken one out of his nest in this state, and
laid him on the palm of my hand, when I observed no sign of life about
him but this trembling, and on returning him to his place, could hardly
prevent him from falling on one side. If their nests were taken away at
that season, the poor birds must inevitably perish[4].
[3] Hirundo edulis. Linn. Syst. Nat.
[4] See Fontana's Account of these Birds. Asiatic Researches,
Vol. III. p. 292.
I did not perceive any great variety of birds in these islands; but
wild pigeons and parrots are numerous.
As to fishes, the sea abounds with various descriptions, but my
attention was principally directed to shell-fish, which are found in
great abundance and beauty on most of the islands, the Mission being in
part supported by collections of these and other natural curiosities,
made by me and other Brethren, whose time and disposition allowed of
it. It became at one time peculiarly my business, and though I
possessed no previous knowledge of these things, and would not venture
to determine upon a proper classification of the various natural
productions which I collected, both on the coast of Coromandel and in
the Nicobar islands, yet constant practice and experience gave me by
degrees sufficient skill to distinguish what was really worthy the
attention of naturalists. I had moreover the satisfaction to perceive
the blessing of God resting upon these exertions, by which a
considerable part of the heavy expences of the Mission were defrayed,
there having been at that time a great demand for productions of this
kind in England, Holland, Denmark, and other parts of Europe.
On my frequent excursions along the sea coast, it sometimes happened
that I was benighted, and could not, with convenience, return to our
dwelling; but I was never at a loss for a bed. The greater part of the
beach consists of a remarkably fine white sand, which above
highwater-mark is perfectly clean and dry. Into this I dug with ease a
hole large enough to contain my body, forming a mound as a pillow for
my head; I then lay down, and by collecting the sand over me, buried
myself in it up to the neck. My faithful dog always lay across my body,
ready to give the alarm, in case of disturbance from any quarter.
However, I was under no apprehension from wild animals. Crocodiles and
kaymans never haunt the open coast, but keep in creeks and lagoons, and
there are no ravenous beasts on the island. The only annoyance I
suffered was from the nocturnal perambulations of an immense variety of
crabs of all sizes, the grating noise of whose armour would sometimes
keep me awake. But they were well watched by my dog; and if any one
ventured to approach, he was sure to be suddenly siezed, and thrown to
a more respectful distance; or if a crab of more tremendous appearance
deterred the dog from exposing his nose to its claws, he would bark and
frighten it away, by which, however, I was often more seriously alarmed
than the occasion required. Many a comfortable night's rest have I had
in these sepulchral dormitories, when the nights were clear and dry.
But before I dismiss this subject I cannot conclude my letter, without
observing, that on the continent, as well as in some of the other East
Indian islands, it would be hazardous in the extreme to expose oneself
in this manner, during the night, on account of the number of wild
beasts, of various descriptions, with which they abound. I feel truly
thankful to God, that He preserved me, on my many journies, from all
harm; nor can I speak of having ever been in much danger. Yet one
instance of His merciful preservation of my life, I must be permitted
to add.
On one of my voyages either to or from Queda, (for I have forgotten the
precise time) a Danish ship hailed us, and approaching incautiously,
ran foul of our stern, and broke our flag-staff. We therefore put into
a creek, and some of our men landed near a wood, to cut down a tree to
make a new one. Hoping to be able to procure some fresh meat for
supper, I accompanied them, armed with a double-barrelled gun. While
they were at their work, I walked on the outside of the wood, eagerly
looking for some game, and soon discovered, among the high grass, an
object, which, by its motions, I mistook for the back of a hare. I took
aim, and was just going to fire, when the animal rose up, and proved to
be a tyger, of which only the top of the head had been visible. My arm
involuntarily sunk down; I stood motionless with horror, expecting that
the creature would immediately make a spring at me, and gave myself up
for lost; but, by God's providence watching over me, the beast seemed
as much alarmed as I was, and after staring at me for a few moments,
turned slowly about, and began to creep away, like a frightened cat,
with his belly close to the ground; then, gradually quickening his
pace, fled with precipitation into a distant part of the wood. It was
some time before I recovered presence of mind sufficient to trace back
my steps towards the beach, for I felt my very heart tremble within me.
As I approached the water, there was a piece of jungle, or low thicket
before me, and I was turning to the left, to pass round by the side
opposite the boat, thinking that I might yet find some game, when,
seeing the men labouring hard to drag the tree they had felled, towards
the water, I altered my course, and went to their assistance. No sooner
had I entered the boat, than I discovered on that side of the jungle,
to which I was first going, close to the beach, a large kayman,
watching our motions, whom I should certainly have met, had I gone
round by the way I intended. Thankful as I now felt for this second
preservation of my life, I could not help discharging my piece at the
animal's head, and by the sudden plunge he made into the water, and the
appearance of blood on the surface, as he was swimming towards the
opposite shore, it seemed that one or both of the shots had penetrated
his eye or throat. We saw him reach the shore, and crawl through the
mud into the jungle.
Part of the flesh of the crocodile or kayman is good and wholesome,
when well cooked. It tastes somewhat like pork, for which I took it,
and ate it with much relish, when I first came to Nancanwery; till, on
inquiry, finding it to be the flesh of a beast so disgusting and
horrible in its appearance and habits, I felt a loathing, which I could
never overcome; but it is eaten by both natives and Europeans.
LETTER IV.
Since you have expressed satisfaction with my imperfect account of some
of the natural productions of the Nicobar islands, and desire me to
continue the subject, I regret that I cannot gratify you with a sight
of the lists I kept, of the different kinds of serpents, crabs,
spiders, and other creatures, which I caught everywhere, either to
stuff, put into spirits, or otherwise prepare for my customers. At our
garden near Tranquebar, I had a shop or work-room purposely constructed
for these operations, and kept sometimes two or three Malabar boys at
work to help me. Of serpents and snakes I had a list of upwards of
eighty different species, from the size of a common worm, to sixteen
and twenty feet long; of crabs, upwards of ninety; and of spiders, more
than forty. Whether I went into the woods, on the beach, by land, or by
sea, I was accustomed to look about, and examine every object I saw,
and acquired great facility in catching some of the most dangerous
animals, without harm to myself. Far from being afraid of serpents, I
went out purposely to discover their haunts, in the jungle or among the
rocks, defending my legs with a pair of strong boots; and if I could
prevent their slipping off into their holes, and irritate them so as to
make them attempt to strike me, my work was done. For a serpent thus
situated, will coil himself up, and instantaneously darting forward his
head, strike and bite whatever comes in his way. I then presented my
hat, which the animal violently seized with his fangs; when, instantly
snatching it away, I seldom failed to extract them by the sudden jerk;
for, being curved, they cannot be readily withdrawn, and sitting but
loosely in the gums, are easily disengaged. Being thus rendered in a
great degree harmless, I pinned their heads down, and tied them up.
Great care, however, is required, not to suffer yourself to be
lacerated by their teeth, or in any other way, while preparing their
heads, and refixing the fangs; for if a wound is thus inflicted, even
long after their death, the consequences are dreadful, and often fatal,
of which I might relate many singular instances, which came immediately
under my observation.
There is among them a short serpent, found in the neighbourhood of
Tranquebar, and called by us, the _Split-snake_, (_die Spalt-schlange_).
It is black, with a white streak down its back, dividing the body
longitudinally. Its bite is extremely venomous; and being slender, it
can insinuate itself into a very small hole or cranny, and will enter
rooms and closets, in quest of food. There was a door in a dark part of
my work-room, with a large clumsy lock to it; and one evening, as I was
attempting to open it, having to pass that way, I felt a sudden prick
in my finger, and at the same time a violent electrical shock, as if I
were split asunder. Not thinking of a serpent, I first imagined, that
my Malabar boys had, in their play, wound some wire about the handle,
by which I had been hurt, and asked them sharply, what mischief they
had done to the door. They denied, that they had meddled with it, and I
made a second attempt, when I was attacked still more violently, and
perceived the blood trickling down my finger. I then returned into my
room, sucking the wound, till I could draw no more blood. I applied
some spirits of turpentine to it, put on a bandage, and being much
hurried that evening with other business, made no farther inquiry about
it. However, in the night it swelled, and was very painful. In the
morning, I went again into the work-room, when I thought I perceived an
unpleasant, musky smell. On approaching the before-mentioned door, the
stench was intolerable. I again asked the boys, what nasty thing they
had brought into the room, for they were always at play; but they again
denied any knowledge of the cause of the nuisance. A candle was
brought, and I now beheld the origin of all the mischief. About six
inches length of the head and body of a young split-snake hung out of
the key-hole, quite dead; and on taking off the lock, I found the
creature twisted into it, and so much wounded by the turn of the bolt,
in attempting to open the door, that it had died in consequence. It
had intended to enter the room through the key-hole, when I thus
accidentally stopped its progress, and got bitten; and considering the
deadly poison this serpent always infuses into the wound inflicted, I
felt very thankful to God, my Preserver, that, by sucking the infected
blood out of my finger in time, and applying a proper remedy, though
ignorant of the cause of the wound, my life was not endangered. I have
heard and believe, that the bite of every serpent is accompanied, more
or less, by a sensation similar to an electrical shock, as the poison
seems almost instantaneously to affect the whole mass of blood. We
considered also the name of split-snake given to this animal, not so
much as descriptive of its split appearance, as of the singular
sensation its bite occasions, and which I then experienced.
Of other remarkable serpents I will only quote, the _Whip-snake_, which
is green, from four to six feet long, slender, and springs horizontally,
from tree to tree, whence it is also called the _Flying-snake_. The
species, known by the name of the _Double-headed-snake_, has not two
heads, but is equally thick before and behind; and, like some
caterpillars, furnished with a kind of protuberance at its tail, which,
to a superficial observer, may pass for another head. They are of a red
colour, sluggish, and resemble a long sausage. The _Wall-snake_ climbs
a wall with great agility, and is small and spotted. The bite of all
these serpents is attended with great danger; indeed I believe there is
not one of this class of animals that is not more or less venomous,
though some in a very slight, and almost imperceptible degree. Their
poison principally affects the blood, and is not hurtful to a sound
skin. Yet I hardly ever cased one of the larger serpents for stuffing,
but I turned sick with the extraordinary, musky, and loathsome smell of
their flesh, though ever so fresh.