the Persons they were great with but the Day before. In my former Voyage
to this Country, I was at first surprised at this sort of Behaviour, and
ascribed the Cause of it to the Pride of the _English_; but I was
convinced afterwards, that it was owing much more to a melancholy Temper,
which is general to almost the whole Nation. An _Englishman_ of this Cast
is not the less a Friend upon that Account, and if one does not take
Notice of that Unevenness of Temper, he will naturally come to himself,
and they readily forgive their Friend for any Absence of Thought. In
short, the _English_ have their Failings, because they are but Men; but I
shall always pay very great Credit to an _Englishman_, when he tells me,
that he is my Friend. In order to acquire the Friendship of these People,
'tis absolutely necessary to speak their Language. Many of them
understand _French_ and _Italian_, but they don't care to speak foreign
Languages; and when they do, 'tis either from Necessity or Constraint. Now
Constraint is what the _English_ don't at all like; for as they enjoy the
greatest Liberty of any People in the World, they have an Aversion to
every Thing which cramps it.
Their Manners differ extremely from those of the _French_, which is what
the latter are at a Loss to account for; because they have been always so
much imitated by all other Nations, that they think themselves the
Directors of Mankind, and that the _English_ do them an Injustice in not
following their Copies. To give you my Judgment as to the Manners of these
two Nations, is what I shall not undertake, being restrained from it by
several Considerations, especially the Fear of doing Wrong either to the
one or the other, and that I should not give a right Judgment in so great
a Cause. They are both perhaps not exempt from very great Failings; but it
seems to me, that the _English_ are not the Slaves of that Tyrant, Custom,
and chuse to follow their Genius and good Sense. They don't surfeit
themselves with those Nothings which the _French_ call Politeness, and
which seem to be invented only to pass away the Time. In fine, to speak my
Mind plainly, if I was but twenty Years of Age, I could like to be a
complete _Frenchman_; but now that I am forty, I am perfectly reconciled
to the Manners and Customs of the _English_.
A Zeal for Religion seems to me to be the only Point in which there is a
Conformity of Temper between the two Nations: And tho' they differ widely
in Principles, yet they both cry out loudly for the Privileges of their
Church, and both have equally their Fanatics. For tho' _London_ has not
such as are Devotees to St. _Paris_, it has other Sectaries, who are as
senseless. For the rest, the two Nations may boast of having produced a
great Number of good Men, as appears from the many good Books of Devotion
and Morality, for which we are obliged to them. And as for Libertines, I
think neither Nation has reason to reproach the other, and that there are
as many at _London_ as at _Paris_.
The _English_ are run down for their Cruelty, but I know not for what
Reason, unless it be, that in a Battle they do not readily give Quarter,
and are apt to pursue their Advantage too far. I fansy it would be easy to
prove, that other Nations, who charge the _English_ with this Vice, are
more cruel than they. For in short, the Barbarities committed in the
Conquest of _Mexico_, the burning of the _Palatinate_, the Massacre of St.
_Bartholomew_, the _Sicilian_ Vespers, the Assassinations of the best of
Kings, are Cruelties that are not to be matched in the History of
_England_. We don't hear of those Assassinations in this Country, that are
committed elsewhere; and even the Highwaymen seem to be more humane here
than Abroad; for they generally content themselves with what is given
them, without shedding of Blood; and some of them are so generous, as to
give Money to People whom other Highwaymen had stripped. 'Tis
inconceiveable how many Stratagems these Rogues make use of to carry their
Points. I have been told a great many Stories upon this Head, of which I
give you the following, because I think 'twas very well contrived.
As a Nobleman was travelling in his Coach, the Roads were so extremely
bad, that his Servants who were on Horseback, were forced to turn out of
the High-Road into a By-Way. His Lordship came by Degrees into a Vale,
where he met with a Man on Horseback, who putting a Gun into the Coach,
said to him, _My Lord, this is a good Gun; 'tis worth a hundred Pieces
between Friends; I would advise you to buy it_. The Nobleman understood
his Meaning, but being defenceless, he drew a hundred Guineas out of his
Purse, which the Highwayman took, and gave him the Gun. The first Thing
that my Lord did, was to present it at the Highwayman; but he told him,
that he was not afraid of him; for, in short, the Gun was not charged, so
that my Lord could not recover his Money.
As the Highwaymen are so artful in committing Robberies, they are much
more so in escaping Justice. A Highwayman, who had also committed a Murder
near _London_, some Years ago, rode fifty _French_ Leagues that Day, upon
the same Horse. When he came to the Place where he thought himself safe,
he took out his Watch; and shewing it to the People of the Inn where he
sat up, _I call you to witness_, said he, _that at such an Hour I came
hither, and I desire you to give me a Certificate of it in Writing_. They
gave him one accordingly, which Piece of Paper saved his Life; for when he
was apprehended, his Judges being assured that he was the Murderer, were
just going to condemn him, when he ask'd them, At what o'Clock the Murder
was committed? The Judges having told him the Hour, _How come you to
think_, said he, _that 'twas possible for me so be guilty of the Crime of
which you accuse me, when I was that very Day fifty Leagues from the Place
where 'twas committed_? The Judges, thinking it out of the Power of Man to
be there, and so far off too, in that Time, set the Culprit at Liberty.
Mean time, the President being persuaded that he was guilty, ask'd him
privately how it was; and the Highwayman, after having made him promise
to keep the Secret, confessed the Fact.
I could tell you a Number of such Stories, not so much to convince you,
that the _English_ are not cruel, as to prove to you, that their
Highwaymen are cunning. All the Laws here are mild, and not severe. There
are no Tortures, nor are such made use of, even in Conspiracies. Nobody is
condemned to die, if he be not found guilty before two Tribunals or
Juries, composed of Persons who are, as near as can be, Men of equal Rank
with the Party accused. The first Tribunal must consist of more than
twelve Persons, but twelve is the Number by whom the Bill must be found.
The second Tribunal consists precisely of twelve Jurymen, who must all be
agreed in their Verdict, and be shut up together, without being allowed
Victuals or Drink, till they are all of the same Opinion. There are but
two Sorts of Execution known here, _viz._ Hanging and Beheading, of which
the last is reserved only for such as are Peers of the Realm.
It seems to me, by what I have now told you, that the _English_ are as
humane, and more so, than we are, who refine upon Tortures and Executions;
as if 'twere nothing to make a Man suffer, and that 'twas not enough to
take that Life from him, which no Monarch in the World can prolong one
Moment, much less restore to him from whom he has once taken it.
The Execution of Criminals here is a perfect Shew to the People, by Reason
of the Courage with which most of 'em go to the fatal Tree. I lately saw
five carried to the Gallows, who were dressed, and seemed to be as well
pleased, as if they were going to a Feast. The Executions here are not
performed with that terrible Apparatus as they are elsewhere. There is not
that Number of Halbardiers, nor all that Gravity, which sometimes strikes
a greater Awe than the Execution itself. A Criminal goes to the Gallows
here in a Cart. When he is directly under it, he is fastened to the Top of
it, when a Smack of a Whip makes the Horses draw away the Cart, and the
Criminal remains hanging. I am told, that his Friends or Neighbours pull
him by the Feet, in order to dispatch him the sooner. They who die without
Fainting, are always extolled to the Skies by the Populace, and the least
of their Characters are, that they died like brave Gentlemen.
'Tis one of the distinguishing Characters of an _Englishman_, to be
intrepid in the Article of Death. We are forbid by Religion, to approve of
that Contempt of Life; yet we can't help admiring it in the _Romans_, from
whom the _English_ have, no doubt, derived the Practice of putting an End
to their Days, when Life is a Burden to them. These Self-Murders are but
too frequent here, and are committed by Persons of good Families, as well
as by the Dregs of the People. I gave you an Instance in one of my Letters
from _Paris_, of a certain Bookbinder and his Wife, who hang'd themselves
at _London_, for fear of that Misery in Life which they thought
unavoidable. I could give you other Instances as tragical, if I were not
apprehensive, that such melancholy Catastrophes would give you Horror.
Mean time you must agree with me in the Impossibility of accounting for
such a strange odd Turn of Mind in these People; for in short, other
Nations don't seem by their Actions to have any more Religion than the
_English_, and they are all equally sensible of Misfortunes; yet one
rarely hears of a Foreigner makeing an Attempt upon himself. How come the
_English_ then to be so free with Life? Does it proceed from a greater
Sense of Courage, or of Cowardice?
A great many of 'em hang themselves purely for Love. I own to you, that if
I were so forsaken by God, as to commit such a foolish Prank, it should be
for an _English_ Woman. They have, in my Opinion, such an Air of Modesty
and Good-nature, and withal, such a bashful Simplicity, as charm me, and
such tender languishing Eyes too, as tho' not universally pleasing, yet
captivate me to such a Degree, that if I was but twenty Years of Age, I
should have gone very much astray. Most of the _English_ Women are
handsome; they have the finest Hair in the World, and are only obliged to
pure Nature for the Beauty of their Complexions. 'Tis a Pleasure to see
them blush. The frankest of 'em retain an Air of Modesty, which would
persuade one, that they don't affect to be wicked. They are commonly very
richly dressed, but not altogether in the Taste of the _French_ Ladies,
which is the only Fault that I find with 'em. They seem to affect Dressing
to their Disadvantage. Their Gowns so close before, with strait Sleeves,
which don't reach beyond the Elbow, make them look as if they had no
Shoulders nor Breasts. And what is worse than all, they have broad flat
Rumps to their Gowns, and Hoop-Petticoats, narrow at the Top, and
monstrously wide at the Bottom. They are always laced, and 'tis as rare to
see a Woman here without her Stays on, as it is to see one at _Paris_ in a
full Dress. I wish the _English_ Ladies would take Pattern by the _French_
a little more in their Dress; for in my Judgment, the Knots of Ribban in
their Cornets, and a thousand Trinkets with which the latter set
themselves off, are very becoming to the Sex. On the other hand, I should
be glad, if the young Gentlemen did not imitate the _French_ Air and
Dress so much as they do; but kept to the Manners of their own Country,
which are more suitable to the Men. They say, that among the good
Qualities of the Women here, they are equally susceptible themselves of
the Passion of Love, which they are so apt to kindle in the Men. This is
very good, and perfectly natural; for in my Opinion, nothing is so ill
becoming to the Fair Sex as Hard-heartedness, the rather, because I
believe 'tis possible for a Woman to be in Love, without abandoning
Virtue.
The Ladies here have little to employ them; their Amusement being to give
and receive Visits, to go often to Court, to have the Pleasure of being
seen, which really is of all Pleasures that which they seem to take most
Delight in. This is the Motive that carries them to the public Walks,
Concerts, and Theatres; in all which Places they are mightily reserved,
have but little Talk, and their chief Conversation is the Flutter of their
Fans. I was one Day paying a Visit at a House where there was an Assembly
of twenty Women, and not one Man besides myself: They look'd upon one
another, but did not speak a Word. I may defy you to shew me any other
Place where there's a Score of Women in Company, and not one Tongue
stirring. As for the rest, the Women here enjoy great Liberty. They turn
out in a Morning, with a black velvet Mask on their Faces, a Coif on, in
form of a Hat, with the Brims down, a round Gown, and a white Apron; and
in this Trim they go to the Park, or whithersoever they please. They take
the Air very much on Horseback. In short, they do what they have a Mind
to. Mean time the Husbands are seldom of their Parties, and trouble
themselves very little whither they go, being too much Philosophers, and
of too good Sense, to make their Honour dependent on the Virtue of their
Wives, which at the same time, I verily believe, to be in less Danger here
than elsewhere, it being not the Genius of the _English_, to take a great
deal of Pains for an Amour; and I am persuaded, that _Hercules_'s Love for
_Omphale_ will never be equalled in this Country.
The Pleasures of this great City are of many and various Kinds; yet I have
known _Englishmen_, at their Return from _Paris_, say, they thought
_London_ too dull a Place for 'em to live in. Others would argue with me,
that there's more Diversion at _Rome_. You know, Sir, what I have related
to you, of the Pleasures both of _Rome_ and _Paris_; and after I have
given you an Account of those of _London_, such as they are, or may be
taken, you shall be the Judge betwixt those _Frenchify'd_ or _Italianized
Englishmen_, and me.
A Man of Sense, a Scholar, a Devotee; in one Word, a Man, is never at a
Loss here for suitable Company, and I defy him to meet with better on the
other Side of the Herring-Pond: The irregular Man, or rather the Deboshee,
has here his full Swing: And the fine Gentleman, whom I place in a Medium
betwixt the two Extremes, has enough to regale his Appetite. As the
Species of the latter, is the most prevailing, we will shew how he passes
his Time: He rises late, puts on a Frock, (which is a close-body'd Coat,
without Pockets or Plaits, and with strait Sleeves) and leaving his Sword
at home, takes his Cane, and goes where he pleases. The Park is commonly
the Place he walks to, because 'tis the Exchange for Men of Quality. There
he has it at his Choice to make any Engagement whatsoever. Then he goes
home to dress, and afterwards saunters to some Coffee-house, or
Chocolate-house, frequented by the Person he would see; for 'tis a sort
of Rule with the _English_, to go, once a Day at least, to Houses of this
Sort, where they talk of Business and News, read the Papers, and often
look at one another, without opening their Lips; and 'tis very well they
are so mute; for if they were as talkative as the People of many other
Nations, the Coffee-houses would be intolerable, and there would be no
hearing what one Man said, where there are so many. The Chocolate-house in
St. _James_'s-street, whither I go every Morning, to pass away the Time,
is always so full that a Man can scarce turn about in it. Here are Dukes,
and other Peers, mixed with Gentlemen; and to be admitted, there needs
nothing more than to dress like a Gentleman. At one o'Clock, they go to
Court, to the King's Levee, and from thence to the Queen's Apartment,
where is commonly a great Number of Ladies, very well dressed. At three
o'Clock they all retire to their several Appointments. Dinners here are
very expensive, and parties at Taverns very much in Fashion. At private
Houses the Ladies retire as soon as Dinner is over, and the Men remain at
the Table; upon which, the Cloth being taken off, the Footmen place a
Bottle of Wine, or more, if all the Guests don't drink the same Sort, with
Glasses well rinsed, and then they withdraw, only one waits at the
Beaufet. The Bottle now goes round; every one fills his Glass as he
pleases, and drinks as much, or as little as he will; but they always
drink too much, because they sit too long at it.
When the Company breaks up from Table, if it be fine Weather, they go out
again for the Air, either in a Coach to _Hide_ Park, where the Ring is, or
else on Foot to St. _James_'s Park. In the Winter they make Visits till
the Plays begin; but these Representations really deserve a separate
Article, and you shall have it by-and-by at large. After the Opera's or
Plays are over, the Company goes to the Assemblies, which are alternative,
sometimes at one Lord's House, and sometimes at another's, or else they
repair to the _Drawing-room_. At Midnight they go to Supper. The Companies
formed at the Taverns are the merriest, and _Bacchus_ is commonly seconded
by _Venus_. At Day light the jolly Carousers retire home. Judge, after
what I have now said, whether a young Gentleman has not as much to amuse
himself at _London_, as at _Paris_ and _Rome_. Believe me, that they who
say that this City is too melancholy for 'em, only say so to give
themselves an Air.
At private Houses the Tables are served with as much Neatness and Delicacy
as in any Country in the World. There are three Dishes commonly at each
Course, and Plates are often laid two or three deep, which is the Reason
that People always eat more than they would otherwise, and that Abundance
of Time is spent at Table. There is excellent Beef here; and I am in Love
with their Puddings, which are made of Flour, Eggs, Crumbs of Bread, and
in short, a thousand Ingredients that I know nothing of, but all together
make very good Fare. There's one Custom established in these Houses, which
to be sure you would not dislike, _viz._ That at the first Time of a Man's
Introduction to a Family, he salutes the Mistress of the House with a
Kiss, which tho' but a very modest one, 'tis a Pleasure to see a Colour
come into the Lady's Cheeks, as if they had committed a Fault. A second
Custom, which is not so agreeable as the former, is, that after a Man has
been entertained, something must be given to the Servants of the House:
And this Gift must be proportioned to the Rank of the Master of the House
at whose Table you have sat; so that if a Duke gives me a Dinner four
times a Week, his Footmen would pocket as much of my Money, as would
serve my Expences at the Tavern for a Week. I wonder why the _English_
keep up this Custom, those especially who live so magnificently, and pay
their Domestics so handsomely, that I believe they are as happy as any of
their Class in the World.
The Tavern Reckonings run excessive high, but then there's the best of
Attendance and Accommodation; in which respect I prefer them to the
Cabarets of _Paris_, where the Table Linen is generally very course and
dirty.
The Assemblies here are so throng'd, that there's hardly any stirring.
Nevertheless, there are seldom more than three or four Gaming-Tables.
Almost every body is standing. They are in perpetual Motion, like a Swarm
of Ants; they jostle and squeeze by one another, then ask Pardon, pass
mutual Compliments, and just inquire after one another's Health; but 'tis
in a manner impossible to hold a Conversation.
The gayest and most numerous Assembly in _Europe_ is upon the Ball-Days at
the Grand Theatre in the _Hay Market_. I can safely say, that I never saw
a finer Sight in my Life. Sometimes there are no less than three thousand
in Company. Every Person pays a Guinea, for which they are accommodated
with all manner of Refreshments, and all the Sorts of Wines imaginable,
besides a stately Desert of Fruit and Sweetmeats. All this numerous
Assembly parades in several Rooms richly adorned, and completely
illuminated. In several of these they dance, and in others there's Play.
The Entertainment opens with a Concert perform'd by the ablest Musicians
in _London_. Then the Ball begins, and holds till next Morning. At these
Balls the Company are often mask'd, and then the King and the Prince of
_Wales_ honour them with their Presence; but the Queen and the Princesses
are never there. At all these Entertainments, every body appears very well
dressed, and the Ladies especially are stuck all over with Jewels; for
there is no Country in the World where there are finer Diamonds. The
_English_ Dances are Country-dances, which require several Couples at a
time; and all that perform in them, close in by Turns, which gives
Opportunities of making an Acquaintance. The Tunes to which they dance are
so brisk, that I fansy they would be more agreeable to the Vivacity of the
_French_, than the Sedateness of the _English_.
As to Plays, the _English_ are fond of them, and have more of 'em than any
other Nation. They have an _Italian_ Opera, which is the best and most
magnificent in _Europe_. They pay a Guinea for the Boxes, half a Guinea
for the Pit, and a Crown for the Gallery. But though 'tis always crouded,
yet it won't defray the Expences of Acting; so that several of the
Nobility contribute to the Salaries of the Actors, which are extravagant;
but then they have the best Voices of _Italy_. An Actor, whose Name is
_Senesino_, has one thousand five hundred Pounds a Year, besides Presents
in Abundance. The Music of these Operas is generally composed by one
_Handel_, who is esteemed by a great many People beyond all Expression,
but others reckon him no extraordinary Man; and for my own part, I think
his Music not so affecting as 'tis elegant. The Decorations are very fine,
and the Room is very large, and much more beautiful than that at _Paris_.
The Company sit for most part in the Pit, where the Ladies form
Semi-Circles, so that all their Faces are seen, which makes a very good
Effect. I forgot to tell you, that the whole is well illuminated with Wax
candles. There's Dancing between the Acts, when there is no burlesque
Interlude.
Besides the _Italian_ Opera, there's an _English_ one, where they sing
only the Tunes, the rest being recited. This, I think, is more just, than
when the whole is sung; at least a Man does not sing when he is killing or
beating himself.
The _English_ Comedy is no less esteemed by the _English_, than it has
been severely criticiz'd by the _French_, who say, 'tis not comparable to
theirs. The Wits of both Nations have treated this important Subject very
gravely, and have alike shewn their Presumption. I am far from giving my
Judgment betwixt them; but I must say, that it seems to me, that the
_French_ are too much cramp'd by their Rules, and the _English_ not
enough. Thus do the two Nations discover the Difference of their Taste,
the one for Obedience, the other for Liberty. Tho' the _English_ are not
such nice Observers of the Simplicity of the Subject, and the Unity of
Place, yet they seem to me to abound in happy Sentiments: And how much
prejudiced soever they may be said to be in Favour of their own
Productions, yet they do not want an Esteem for such _French_ Pieces,
where they meet with Sentiments that are agreeable. The Tragedy of
_Brutus_ by _Voltaire_ is just translated here, which is a Piece that has
had a better Run even at _London_, than at _Paris_; and as it was composed
by the Author in _England_, he was so intirely captivated with the Freedom
of Thinking among the _English_, that he had in some measure forgot he was
a _Frenchman_, and speaks in it of Kings as if they were but Men.
The Plays lead me to give you an Account of the rest of those Pleasures in
which the _English_ seem to take Delight. They hunt much, but in a Manner
very different from us. They ride exceeding hard, and hunt a poor Hare
with as much Eagerness as they pursue a routed Enemy. Their Hounds, and
their Horses too, encourage their Keenness for the Sport, there being not
the like in the World for Speed; so that _England_ furnishes almost all
the Nobility in _Europe_ with Horses and Dogs, as the King of _Denmark_
does with Falcons.