Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I
saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not
Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but,
judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the
Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the
Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and
magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether
he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use
of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high
Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both
Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of
the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass'd, it
was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the
Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the
Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass'd
to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of
_France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here,
the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a
Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which
belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of
the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_
by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore
the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_,
finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of
_France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St.
_Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of
good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated
Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author
of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him
resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a
secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope
with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the
Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to
reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad
Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to
injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour
to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son
of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has
been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the
Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a
Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at
_Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this
City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd.
LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to
+Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Sâon_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_
washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are
industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in
_France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They
endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but
they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop,
who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M.
_de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the
XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in
Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its
Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the
_Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of
the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second
Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of
_Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the
Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de
Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter
Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those
hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_
have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very
great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so
that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as
much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for
the Province, and for the City in particular.
They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first
_Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of
_Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not
without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs,
and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops,
who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is
inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by
several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of
seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons
of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and
twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_,
for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their
Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom
King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is
known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this
Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been
Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevôt des Marchands_ of the City of
_Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of
State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family
who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur
_de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_,
had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of
_Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as
Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of
_Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because
he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King
found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the
Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone
which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_.
The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one
would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was
applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next
Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's
(+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this,
the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal
Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the
Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by
the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded
by M. _de Rochebonne_.
The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor
of the City, is the _Prevôt des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for
any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as
strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd
to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an
Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at
last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The
Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I
imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
The _Prevôt des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when
he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think,
that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so
vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the
same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in
which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.
I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I
have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevôt des Marchands_. I have been to
make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I
have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People
of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few Nobility. The
Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine
Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so
little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the
_Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as
to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me
very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and
the Bottle.
The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the
best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if
they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one
of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a
Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago
was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste
wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this
superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the
Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An
Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better
employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron,
remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year,
that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer,
that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd
be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not
thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of
this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that
Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her
Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes
the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.
I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le
Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a
great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of
Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without
acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide
as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated;
and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same
Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the
Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on
Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription
than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great
deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_,
who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it
the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the
Original.
There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of
Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and
magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in
Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the
Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great
Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
LETTER XXXVIII.
_SIR_, _Paris, March 20, 1732._
For the sake of good Wine I preferr'd the _Djon_ Road to _Paris_, before
the great Road from _Lyons_ thro' _Tarare_; but I have been rightly serv'd
for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos'd on, and
did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in
all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my
Chaise to _Chalons_ upon the _Saone_, and went thither by Water in the
Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the _Diligence_ (Stage Coach) to
_Paris_. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I
happen'd to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very
amiable Gentlemen. We pass'd by TREVOUX, the Capital of the Principality
of _Dombes_, of which the Duke _de Maine_ is Sovereign: It came to him by
Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle _de Montpensier_, Daughter of
_Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, a Princess who render'd herself
famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of _Orleans_, and by ordering the
Cannon to be fir'd from the Bastille upon the Army of _Lewis_ XIV. who
never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her
wou'd never give her leave to marry[38]. 'Twas to reconcile the King to
her, that her Ladyship made the Duke _de Maine_ her Heir. _Dombes_ has a
Parliament, and _Trevoux_ is famous for the _Literary Journal_ printed
there, which causes such frequent Disputes among the Learned.
After having pass'd _Trevoux_, we saw several other Towns, Villages and
Mansion-houses in a Country, one of the finest Landskips that 'tis
possible to imagine. We din'd very much in Haste at a Village, and went
and lay at MACON, an Episcopal City, where the Canons of the Cathedral
have the Title of Counts, as well as those of the Church of St. _John_ at
_Lyons_. This City did not seem to me to have any thing remarkable, and
whether there is any good Company in it, I did not stay long enough to
see.
CHALONS upon the _Saone_ is also the See of a Bishop, but did not appear
to me to be one jot more considerable than _Macon_: I went to see the
Castle, which has a full Command of the Town: There I was shew'd the
Apartment where the Duchess of _Maine_ was kept Prisoner during the
Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_. A Person had need of all that Spirit
which she is known to have, to bear up under a Disgrace equal to hers:
'Twas but a little before, that all the People of _France_ were fond of
making their Court to her; her Grandeur was not equall'd by any Princess
of the Blood, and her Lodgings were perfectly superb; but on a sudden she
fell from all her Splendor, and was oblig'd to live in a miserable Castle,
with no Companions but the Women that are absolutely necessary to attend
her[39]. I will hereafter give you a more particular Account of this
Princess; but I now proceed on my Journey.
From _Chalons_ I went to DIJON, after having pass'd thro' _Beaune_, and
along by the best Vineyards in all _Burgundy_. To tell you frankly my
Mind, I had quite another Idea of _Dijon_, than what I really found it to
be: 'Tis an ancient City, and most of the Houses are old, and make no
great Appearance, tho' they are very convenient, and well fitted up. In
the Street of _Conde_, which is newly built, the Houses are of equal
Proportion. The lower Part consists of Shops, and over them are the
Merchants Lodging-Rooms, and there are Iron Balconies at the Windows,
which, if the Houses were higher, wou'd make a fine Sight. This Street
leads to the Place Royale, in which there's an Equestrian Statue of the
late King _Lewis_ XIV. which is plac'd on so high a Pedestal, that it even
raises the Statue higher than the Houses that surround the Place, which
moreover is by much too small to contain so great a Monument. The Houses
are actually very low, and if they were to be carry'd higher, the Statue
would look as if it were imprison'd in a Cage. This Mass of Copper was
cast in _Paris_, and first carry'd by Water to _Auxerre_, where it
remain'd a long while, it being so very heavy and large, that it was in a
manner immoveable; but at last it was remov'd by Land Carriage to _Dijon_,
but not without very great Difficulty, and as great Expence; yet it
appeared to me to be one of the least Statues in the Kingdom.
This Statue faces the _King's House_, where lives the Duke of _Bourbon_,
Governor of the Province. 'Tis a very spacious Building, with two advanc'd
Wings, but can only be reckon'd a very irregular Structure. I did not go
to see the Apartments, because I was told, that they were not furnish'd,
and not worth the Trouble of a View.
The Palace, where the Parliament meets, is very ancient, and one of the
vilest in the Kingdom. Whether the Dukes of _Burgundy_ resided there
heretofore, I know not; but if they did, they were not very sumptuously
accommodated.
_Dijon_ was erected, but a few Years ago, into a Bishoprick, by the late
Pope _Benedict_ XIII. at the Request of the Duke of _Bourbon_; who was
very glad to procure that Honour for the Capital of his Government.
The Ring at _Dijon_ is the finest Thing about this City; which is really
neither fine nor agreeable. The common People are not over and above
civil, and those of Quality value themselves very much upon their
Nobility. Pray read only the Letters of _Bussi Rabutin_, and you will know
what Sort of Gentry the _Burgundians_ are; for they are all, like him,
puffed up with their Birth. The Parliament of this Province consists
generally of Persons of Quality.
The Duke of _Bourbon_ is the fourth Governor of _Burgundy_, of the _Conde_
Family; to which this Government is a Sort of Appenage. This Prince never
comes to _Dijon_, but to hold an Assembly of the States. The Count _de
Tavannes_, who is Lieutenant-general of the Province, commands there in
his Absence. There is an Intendant, and all the Sovereign Courts.
Notwithstanding so much Company, I thought _Dijon_ a melancholy Place; and
I have seen a great many Towns in _France_ of less Note, which to me had a
more gay and agreeable Appearance. There is a public Concert here, to
which I was forc'd to go, whether I would or not; I thought, before I
went, that it would be but indifferent, and so indeed I found it. The Hall
was magnificent, the Company numerous and splendid, and the Concert would
have been very good, if there had been Musicians; but as it was, it
resembled the Butchers Concert of Marrow-bones and Cleavers.
From _Dijon_ I went to AUXERRE and SENS, of which the last is the See of
an Archbishop; and that's all I can say of it, because I only staid there
to change Horses. When I came to _Auxerre_, I found the whole Street where
the Post-house stands in an Uproar, it being full of Mob, and especially
of Women, who all seem'd very much enrag'd. This was owing to a
Transaction the Night before, when the Wife of a Baker qualify'd her
Husband for one of the chief Posts in the Seraglio: The Motive which
induc'd her to this barbarous Action was Jealousy: Her Husband, who was
about twenty Years old, and a very likely Man, was (at least, as the
scandalous Chronicle of _Auxerre_ said) a little too intimate with a
Pastry Cook Woman, who was young and handsome. The Baker's Wife, who was
old and ugly, not being able to bear the Thoughts of her Husband's
Inconstancy, had taken Care to lay a Razor under her Bolster; and at the
very Time when her Husband was giving her the Marks of his Tenderness for
her, she made him a second _Abelard_. This Tragedy having happen'd just as
I arriv'd at _Auxerre_, the Inhabitants were all very much incensed
against the Baker's Wife, and hurry'd the poor Wretch to Prison. The Women
curs'd her heartily, yet in their serious Imprecations there was something
perfectly comical. I verily believe, that if they had had her at their
Mercy, they would have tore her to Pieces.
FONTAINEBLEAU, a Royal Palace which I pass'd thro', is fourteen Leagues
from _Paris_. There's a great Village belonging to it, which stands in the
Middle of a large Forest, wherein a great Number of long Roads is cut, for
the Conveniency of Hunting. The Palace is irregular, because all the Kings
from _Francis_ I. to _Lewis_ XIV. have made very considerable Additions to
it; nevertheless the Apartments are grand and magnificent. There's a great
Number of Cielings painted by celebrated Masters, whom _Francis_ I. sent
for on purpose from _Italy_. The Gallery of the Stags is noted for the
cruel Action committed there by _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_; who caus'd
her Master of the Horse, and her Favourite _Monaldeschi_, to be
assassinated there before her Face, after having shewn him some Letters,
which he had the Indiscretion to write, and reproach'd him for his
Treachery, in the Presence of the Minister[40] of the Order of the Holy
Trinity, whom she had sent for to give the poor Man Confession, and who in
vain solicited his Pardon. _Lewis_ XIV. was very much disgusted at an
Execution thus committed in his Palace, and, as it were, under his Nose:
Indeed, rather than be oblig'd to manifest his Resentment, he chose to
keep a profound Silence; but tho' he dissembled it as much as possible,
_Christina_ perceiv'd, that she had staid too long at his Court, and
resolv'd to retire to _Rome_, where in 1689 she died.
But _Fontainebleau_ has lately been the Scene of an Action more pleasant,
grand and glorious, _viz._ the Ceremony of the Marriage of King _Lewis_
XV. The Duke of _Orleans_ having marry'd the Queen by Proxy, at
_Strasbourg_, the Princess came by short Days Journies to a Place about a
League from _Moret_; where she was met by the King, and the Princesses of
the Blood. I had the Pleasure of being an Eye-witness of this Interview.
When the Two Coaches of the King and Queen came in Sight of each other,
they advanc'd a few Paces upon the Trot, and then stopp'd; when their
Majesties alighted, and walk'd to each other upon Carpets. When the Queen
came near to the King, she kneel'd down upon a Cushion of blue Velvet,
seeded with Fleurs-de-Lys of Gold. The Dukes of _Orleans_ and _Bourbon_
rais'd her up again, when the King saluted her, but said nothing to her:
The Princes and Princesses saluted her also, and she receiv'd them with
such a good-natur'd, modest Air, as prepossess'd the whole Court in her
Favour. Then the King went into his Coach, where the Queen seated herself
on his Left-hand; and the Princes and Princesses having plac'd themselves
according to their Rank, they thus proceeded to _Moret_. I heard the late
Duchess of _Orleans_ say, that there was a very great Silence observ'd in
the Coach for some time, because all that were in it, out of Respect to
the King, waited for him to speak first: But as he said nothing, the
Duchess of _Orleans_, who had seen the Queen in _Germany_, and at _Metz_,
was the first that broke Silence; and, by degrees, the Conversation became
general. When they arriv'd at _Moret_, the King and the Queen, attended by
the Princes and Princesses, went into the Queen's Closet: There the King
talk'd; and after having stay'd about an Hour, he return'd to
_Fontainebleau_, with the same Train that attended him when he set out
from thence.