_Monte-Cavallo_.
Upon _Sunday_, which was the first Day of _Easter_, the Pope, dress'd in
his _Pontificalibus_, was carry'd in his processional Chair to his Chapel,
where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal
Priest. Then the Pope was carry'd to the Box or Gallery facing the Great
Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull _In Coena Domini_ with an
audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures
against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square.
After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir'd from the Castles
of _Monte-Cavallo_, and _St. Angelo_, gave his Benediction twice to the
Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that
led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn,
and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon
Holy _Thursday_ and Good _Friday_, while the Church is in Mourning for the
Saviour of the World, the Pope's Chapel is stripp'd of all Ornaments, the
Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives
so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.
Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those
that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the _Agnus Dei_'s
of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the
Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the
Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. _John_ the _Baptist_.
This of _Agnus Dei_ is an old Custom in the Church. St. _Augustin_ makes
mention of it in his 118th Epistle. _Baronius_ assures us, in his 8th
Volume, that 'twas the Custom in his Time, upon the _Quasimodo Sundays_,
to distribute among the People _Agnus Dei_'s consecrated by the Pope. And
Cardinal _Bellarmine_ says, that in 798, Pope _Leo_ III. gave an _Agnus
Dei_ to the Emperor _Charlemain_, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn'd
with precious Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate _Agnus Dei_'s in the
first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the
Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of
their Exaltation. _Clement_ XII. perform'd the Ceremony on the _Wednesday_
after _Easter_, in the great Hall of his Apartment at _Monte-Cavallo_,
which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope's
Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and
between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and
his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps
to it, for the Ambassador of _Venice_, the Ladies, and other Persons of
Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of
the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover'd with red Damask,
there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of
solid Silver, full of Water, placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and
gilt, Admirably carv'd by _Bernini_. When the Pope, accompanied by ten
Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the
Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a
Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The
Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the
same, struck up the _Veni Spiritus Sancte_, which the Music carry'd on.
Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that
was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy
Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp'd them into
the Holy Water, and carry'd it to mix with the Water that was in the four
Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons,
and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while
two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The _Chamberlains of Honour_, and
the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the _Agnus Dei_'s in wooden Tubs,
wash'd with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns
fill'd with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish'd them up again
with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the
Prelates deliver'd to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the
Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then
retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days
they made threescore thousand _Agnus Dei_'s, which they say cost the
Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.
Upon _Quasimodo Sunday_, the Pope distributed the _Agnus_'s with very
great Ceremony in the Chapel of _Monte-Cavallo_. He was carry'd in his
Processional Chair from his Apartment to the Chapel, where, being seated
on his Throne, and the _Agnus Dei_ having been perform'd by the Music, one
of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the _Agnus_'s in a Silver Bason,
preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing
Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter'd the
Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, _Pater
Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo
venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja._ To which the Choir
answered, _Deo Gratias; Alleluja._ Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and
kneel'd down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words
as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope's Throne, to whom
he presented a Bason full of _Agnus Dei_'s, in little Packets, wrapp'd up
in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the
Standers-by, who receiv'd them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and
only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.
There's a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These
are the _Roman_ Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this
princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them
a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are
complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to
the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from
their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience
in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses
without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they
are pleas'd to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous
Gentlemen, who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies
Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive
Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy
like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to
follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself,
and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman
carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is
a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the
Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they
pass by.
The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies
of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex'd to
_Nepotism_ have been abolish'd, they have been oblig'd to humble
themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they
correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope's Nieces did not
give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in
general were oblig'd to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit;
nor did the Nieces go to any body's House, but enjoy'd all the Honours of
Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope
not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return
their Visits. Indeed the Princesses _Corsini_ are extraordinary civil and
complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho' the Pope has
declar'd their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with
the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are
vastly pleas'd with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at
it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.
Some Days ago an _Englishman_, one _Thirems_, who has been a long time in
the Service of the Great Duke of _Tuscany_, and is very much attach'd to
the _Corsini_ Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that
the Behaviour of the _Corsini_ Ladies was very much applauded by the
Nobility, but as much dislik'd by the Princes. 'What! _said the Pope_, Do
the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood,
when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are
now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho' I
have declar'd my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an
old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.'
I would pardon the _Roman_ Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy'd any
solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain
Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the _Sbirri_ to arrest
them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up
this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no
Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great,
and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword,
because the greatest Part of the _Roman_ Gentry are so much degenerated
from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their
Fondness for ROME, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a
delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts
them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their
Inferiors in Birth.
Nor do the _Roman_ Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or
their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some
no less than two dozen; but they live very meanly, so that not one of
them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at
most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them;
for as soon as the _Angelus_ has sounded, all Ceremonies at ROME are over,
the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all
Compliments at meeting are set aside.
The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that
their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to
a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what
they call _Lucky Handsel_; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the
Month of _August_, which is what they call _la Ferra Gusta_, and again
when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they
find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for
Money.
The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public
Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them,
who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or
five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp'd to give their
Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at
the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp'd at the very same
Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all
the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of
little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of
going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain _English_
Dutchess, who having travell'd in that manner at ROME, would fain have
introduced the Fashion at _Paris_ too; but she was forbid to make that
Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad
with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the
Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.
Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches,
but seldom make use of them. The Marquis _Sudarini_, who has lately
match'd his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for
which he gave 7000 _Roman_ Crowns, and there are many others that cost
more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and 'tis as much as a
Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable
Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are
generally accompany'd by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who,
with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen.
Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there
are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most
part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has
a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much
as attain to the Honour of being a _Valet de Chambre_. When he is past his
Service his Master _jubilées_ him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay,
and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are
Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number,
what matters it, say they, how they look?
This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens;
they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to
maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for _Sundays_
and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who
has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often
borrow'd of a Tallyman, shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty
Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn'd up behind his Ears,
and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon'd indecent here to
see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon'd Prostitutes
are always attended with a Matron.
The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform'd here with very great
Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw
the Funerals of Cardinal _Buoncompagno_, Archbishop of _Bologna_, and the
Prince _Ruspoli_. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to
the Church of St. _Andrew de Laval_, which was hung all over with Black.
Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave
of the Church, dress'd in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn'd
towards the Choir, and the Cardinal's Hat at the Feet: Four _Valets de
Chambre_ stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black
Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas'd: There were an hundred great Tapers
or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high
Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When
the Cardinals enter'd the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy
Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of
the Deceased, where they said a _Pater_, and the Prayer _Absolve Domine,
&c._ and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the
Corpse: The Cardinals retir'd after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos'd
till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the
Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos'd in
another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince
_Ruspoli_'s Corpse was expos'd in the Church of St. _Laurence Lucini_,
which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal _de
Buoncompagno_ was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased's
Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the _Italians_ say, 'tis barbarous to
oblige Relations to attend each other's Funerals, as is the Fashion with
us.
But tho' they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much
more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman's Mourning is black from
Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have,
which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown
Complexion. The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their
nearest Relations; for the _Romans_ reckon it so great a Happiness for a
Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the
Kindred of a Pope.
They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes
sooner. 'Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches,
whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow'd is always done
with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have
their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung
with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn'd
throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church
are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the
adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as
in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play'd off in
the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the
Expence of the Parishioners. The _Romans_ have a singular Taste for all
Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere
Cockneys as the _Parisians_, and every little Novelty makes them run to
it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho' all that they
see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the
Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover'd
with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There's
scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of
these Fireworks.
The Tribunal of the _Rota_ is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals,
the chief Tribunal in ROME, if not of the whole World; for its Authority
extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See.
It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; _viz._
one _German_, one _French_, two _Spaniards_, one _Bolognese_, one
_Ferrarese_, one _Venetian_, one _Tuscan_, one _Milanese_, and three
_Romans_. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is
President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides.
Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are
made to the Tribunal of the _Rota_.
The Governor of ROME is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop _in
partibus_; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals,
and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown'd Heads[15]; tho'
I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet
saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign
Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that
require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor
Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern
Officers; and the Provost, who is call'd the _Barrigello_, with 300
Sergeants, or _Sbirri_. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards,
who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever
saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must
know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes
by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the
Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of
Gold Colour: The Governor of ROME, and the other Prelates, as the _Major
Domo_, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes
abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the
Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to
give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of
the condemn'd Malefactors; and he must never be absent from ROME: One of
the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits
it but to be made a Cardinal.
Another Magistrate of Note at ROME is the _Senator_: The _Romans_ pretend
that he represents the ancient Senate of ROME; if so, 'tis but a poor
Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of
ROME. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his
Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil,
styl'd Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant
Criminal, or _Fiscal_, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right
to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise
between the Citizens and Inhabitants of ROME: For this End he has also
under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are
at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress'd in
a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin'd with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black
Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope's Chapel, and goes, like the
Governor of ROME, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the
Cardinal Nephew of what has pass'd at his Bar; he is then dress'd in a
long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his
Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff
of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with
great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on
Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.
Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two
Sorts of Punishments here, _viz._ the _Strappa Corda_, and the Gibbet. The
first, tho' 'tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death
itself; the Malefactor being ty'd with his two Hands together to a Rope,
by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on
a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is
to be hang'd, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest
Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates,
Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of
Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the
Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler,
_Where is such a one?_ naming the Criminal that is to be condemn'd. _Here
he is_, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. _Open the
Doors to us_, say the Comforters; _he is in a bad State there, we will
remove him to a Place where he shall be better_. The Turnkey opens the
Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along
with them; and being guarded by a Company of the _Sbirri_, they put him
in the middle, and carry him thro' several Galleries and Turnings towards
the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as
the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his
Name, says to him, _You--there is your Sentence_; and at the same time
throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads
it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very
Moment the _Sbirri_ withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the
Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the
Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in
the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him,
_If he is willing to confess_: If he says, Yes, as very few _Italians_ die
willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him
the best Advice that he can.