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[Illustration: Lestevenon de Berkenroode]
THE
MEMOIRS
OF
_CHARLES-LEWIS_,
Baron de POLLNITZ.
BEING
The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_ thro'
_GERMANY_, || _FLANDERS_,
_ITALY_, || _HOLLAND_,
_FRANCE_, || _ENGLAND_, &c.
In LETTERS to his FRIEND.
Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;
BUT
The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the several COURTS.
In TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
The SECOND EDITION, with ADDITIONS.
_LONDON_:
Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black-Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_.
M.DCC.XXXIX.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LETTER XXVIII 1
LETTER XXIX 24
LETTER XXX 46
LETTER XXXI 55
LETTER XXXII 77
LETTER XXXIII 95
LETTER XXXIV 113
LETTER XXXV 129
LETTER XXXVI 151
LETTER XXXVII 168
LETTER XXXVIII 179
LETTER XXXIX 189
LETTER XL 203
LETTER XLI 228
LETTER XLII 261
LETTER XLIII 277
LETTER XLIV 290
LETTER XLV 310
LETTER XLVI 325
LETTER XLVII 337
LETTER XLVIII 348
LETTER XLIX 357
LETTER L 364
LETTER LI 384
LETTER LII 394
LETTER LIII 430
LETTER LIV 449
INDEX 473
FOOTNOTES
[Illustration]
MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de POLLNITZ.
In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._
LETTER XXVIII.
_SIR_, _Rome, July 30, 1730._
Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which
has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of
_Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it,
because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.
I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most
beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the
Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I
shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much
rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well
described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a
Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.
ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now
That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any
Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must
be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal
to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first
Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck
with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled
the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right
and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a
Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.
When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a
triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_,
through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point,
in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches,
the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the
middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental
Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised
by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's
a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be
worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village.
The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church
consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on
the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The
Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched
Hovels.
From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which
lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in
the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_,
because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run
Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day
by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine
Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_,
_Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.
_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good
substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar,
which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the
Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given
place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called,
because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In
it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by
the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.
The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is
called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs
leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so
contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for
the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the
Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of ROME.
The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in
it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one
would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that
less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at
both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_,
which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Ambassador of that
Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In
the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed
in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious
Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_,
belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of
Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a
rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say,
that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if
true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste
perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to
Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old
_Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I
dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the
Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies,
sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the
Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent
every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of
Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in
Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press
forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not
how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man
for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had
rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have
the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of _Spain_; I
extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and
there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the
Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are
not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of
the Ladies Coaches.
Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets
which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the
_Spanish_ Ambassador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or
to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by
Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous
of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he:
This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say
it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an
Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and
their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their
Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square
_Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the
Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis
adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention
of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order
of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by
Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in
this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white
Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in
it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate,
which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.
At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble,
sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four
principal Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and
_Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by
different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes
suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an
oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin
cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.
Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_,
begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.
'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is
an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent
Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace,
belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal
_Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in
Painting.
The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its
round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has
been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an
Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he
afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope
_Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to
the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with
the Title of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the
Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental
Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of
the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by
an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.
The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the
Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was
heretofore covered with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of
that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Brass partly on the High Altar
of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be
cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who
did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_,
who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that
the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it
is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_
was always spared.
St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in
Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that
though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be
worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which
lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it.
Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero
in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is
round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars,
which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support
an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers
holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which
continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the
lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which
runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the
Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who
may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments
with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after
'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s
Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior
_Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense
a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.
commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep
Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the
Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders
of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a
Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was
almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so
confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the
Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the
Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope
promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no
body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd,
and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk,
including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.
caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass
at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person
that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_,
and as many _Ave Maries_.
When you have passed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some
Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is
before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the
_Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is
of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which
form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all
over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of
_Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has
represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the
Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the
Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by
_Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not
near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the
Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and
shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.
I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike
me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and
Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I
was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The
High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a
Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all
Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense
Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by
Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would
naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar
none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by
his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly
adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.
_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case
of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and
surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps,
which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is
hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.
At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair,
a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four
Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and
St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them,
raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of
which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable
Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand,
has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of
such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their
Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in
whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are
not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others
altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess
_Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes
granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of
that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high
Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be
honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the
Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated
her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.
_Christina_'s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with
Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is
perfectly well executed.
Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular
Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than
the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated,
than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing
that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists
have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One
of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.
_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely
coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One
would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little
Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is
extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it
is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They
design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which
grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in
their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried
on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a
Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.
The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the
Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its
Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this
Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that
leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to
the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.
_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross,
by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.
All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that
the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious
Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention,
are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary
Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_,
our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the
_Jesuits_.
As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition,
that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having
pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for
what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God
signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at
the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the
more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.
But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy
Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next
Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and
by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of
Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.
The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called
the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_,
because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at
last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those
Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene.
I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came,
referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of
ROME to another Opportunity.
The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and
warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they
have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to
chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_
was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon
account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the
Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of
their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People,
that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he
had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to
Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to
the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the
Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did,
at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time,
it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his
Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill
Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain
Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested
by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at
_Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this
as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as
the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold
on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely
for having done an Act of Justice.
Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for
Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_,
pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his
Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed,
and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de
Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he
was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great
Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own
Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_
Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it
will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy,
they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_,
who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear
of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and
to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him
directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to
the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were
accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to
consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his
Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_
having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon
the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the
Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his
Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_
hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared
openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The
Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more
apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal
_Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some
other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight
to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him;
and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and
conjured him for God's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement.
'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you
end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What
have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course
of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy
the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in
the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his
Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be
obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and
consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal
Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good
Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the
best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election
of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any
longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man
whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at
length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope,
they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated
Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be
Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the
Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the
_French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.
Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were
bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the
Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the
Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_;
yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are
even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that
they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore,
that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a
Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day
of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal
_Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the
Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was
exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy
Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.
Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_,
in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory
of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his
Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the
_Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that
he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble,
good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that
he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.
In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.
received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are
here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a
while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and
placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration
of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling
down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one
after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day
and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for
afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over,
the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great
Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and
then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the
great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel
of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair,
he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short
Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar,
where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another
Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel;
and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off
his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment,
where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the
_Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there
were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a
Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.
The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in
giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the
Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_
Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a
long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his
Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME
about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling
him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the
Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of
the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive
they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they
had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,'
said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no
Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my
Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then
turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal,
whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew,
_said he_, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My
Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much
rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name
may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry
it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not
want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.
ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.
The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I
can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops
who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested
in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in
Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and
then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico,
where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to
kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at
the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer
kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to
the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer
prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the
Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches,
on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_,
they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of
white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this,
they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope,
with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy
Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this
Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave
his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing
a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from
his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried
before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on
his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While
he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before
him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him,
_Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so passeth
away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the
Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he
lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.
When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great
deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three
of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented
him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with
Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was
erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat
upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the
Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_,
with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on
the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this,
were the principal Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.
I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here
these two Months.
From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops,
pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's
Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and
Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a
Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration,
returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the
consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took
one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according
to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest
had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the
Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded
by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession
to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the
great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be
seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his
Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and
Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the
People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that
led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were
fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of
their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again
placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he
dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy
Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses
were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of
St. _Angelo_.
Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have
seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the
Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the
Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb
that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is
covered with precious Stones, tho' I assure you, that there cannot be a
greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many
Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony
august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is
hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the
very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon
this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_
could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really
affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he
has deviated from the Truth.
The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the
Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown,
commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of
_Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same
Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the
Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.
Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and
took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father
marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond
of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had
seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode
in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ Nobility on Horseback,
his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The
Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy,
as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw
_Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed
nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
LETTER XXIX.
_SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._
In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I
traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no
Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know,
that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are
here styled Palaces.
I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and
_Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first,
for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a
Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most
healthful Air in the City.
The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high,
and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of
its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired
in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been
employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot
help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of
the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to
have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has
done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History
of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.
_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful
Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment,
by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons
of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake
them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he
did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick
of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among
the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him
out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power
extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from
thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune
to be in such Company, there he must stay.
The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in
the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_,
and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the
best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the
_Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The
former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of
_Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_
submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased
by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this
Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from
the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the
Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty
broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance
is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that
are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted,
both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists
of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the
Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers
Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of
sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short,
ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their
Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope
_Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.
The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes
his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought
it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_,
which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And
as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop,
if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit
the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the
Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built,
with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his
Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain
Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he
used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this
Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.
I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here,
touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the
most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St.
_Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_,
he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a
Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the
_Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at
_Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the
Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When
he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so
that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal,
the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave
at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the
Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed
at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long
enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They
were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should
give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State;
however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such
Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what
they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal
_Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be
_Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred
College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had
for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the
Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the
State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.