FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE
Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where
the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same
allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double
to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on
another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie
parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same
size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with
fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for
this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.
TO JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK--
Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely.
This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a
strip of crinoline to smooth it up.
TO SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN--
It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained,
however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge
first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken
in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched
and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method
is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The
velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so
porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make
excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in
weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for
children's hats.
TO MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF NETEEN OR CRINOLINE--
Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen or crinoline, the height
desired, plus one inch. The length should be the headsize measurement
plus one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to the face which
is usually more becoming. Join the ends of bias strips on the warp
thread.
TO WIRE TURBAN FLARE--
Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, being careful not to
stretch or full the material. Cut another piece of brace wire one or two
inches larger than headsize wire and sew on the raw edge at the bottom,
stretching the fabric to fit if a flare is desired. A roll may be made
by slightly fulling the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller
than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be curved in slightly,
this is easily done by taping the side about halfway between the top and
the bottom, drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin the tape
and sew in place. Sew another wire high enough above the tape to make
the crown the required height. If the crown is to be flared a little at
top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material as much as desired. If
the top of the crown is to be drawn in, sew the wire on the outside,
making the crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient material is
allowed at the top the extra amount may be drawn up over a small circle
of wire to make the crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose
is more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made from an extra piece
sewed over the top after the side is finished.
COVERING TURBANS--
Turbans are becoming to many types and are particularly suitable for the
matron. Gay coverings are used on them often when they would be out of
place on a larger hat. However, any material may be used; braids, alone
or in combination with fabric. Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta
are used. A turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down flat makes a
charming hat: the lower edge invariably looks better if first bound with
a bias piece of velvet no matter what the covering may be--it seems to
give a softer look around the face. A round crown of buckram makes a
good turban frame if a bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to
the lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this kind may be
draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or any pliable material, and when
skillfully done the effect is beautiful indeed.