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MAKE YOUR OWN HATS
by
GENE ALLEN MARTIN
Director of Domestic Arts Department of
the Minneapolis Y.W.C.A.; Designer, Demonstrator
and Instructor in Millinery
Illustrated by E. E. Martin
[Illustration]
Boston and New York
Houghton Mifflin Company
The Riverside Press Cambridge
Copyright, 1921, by Gene Allen Martin
All Rights Reserved
The Riverside Press
Cambridge · Massachusetts
Printed in the U.S.A.
FOREWORD
Hat-making is an art which may be acquired by any one possessing
patience and ordinary ability. To make a hat for the trade is not as
difficult as to make one for an individual; neither is it so high a
phase of art.
Many rules are given for crown-height, brim-width, and color, as being
suited to different types of faces, but they are so often misleading
that it seems best to consider only a few, since the becomingness of a
hat almost invariably depends upon minor characteristics of the
individual for which there are no rules.
A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear grays--gray-green, cream
color, salmon pink; a touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if
the eyes are dark.
The woman with dark hair and blue or dark eyes may wear any color if the
skin is clear.
One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin may find golden brown, a
pale yellow or cream color becoming--possibly a mulberry if just the
right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim faced with some shade of
rose will add color to the cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the
skin is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should be worn by any
one having blue eyes--it seems to make the blue paler.
Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a clear skin may wear browns,
grays, greens, tan, blue, and black. Black should not be worn next the
face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, very becoming to
blondes, and to women whose hair has become quite white.
A black hat is almost a necessity in every woman's wardrobe, and it may
always be made becoming by using a facing of some color which is
especially becoming to the wearer--black and white is always a smart
combination, but very difficult to handle.
In regard to lines--it is known that a hat with a drooping brim takes
from the height of the wearer and should never be worn by any one having
round shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the back would be
much better. A narrow brim and high crown add height to the wearer. A
woman with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat turned up too
sharply from the face. Short people should avoid very wide brims. For
the possessor of a very full, round face the high crown and narrow brim,
or a brim which turns up sharply against the crown on one side, or all
around, should prove becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to
wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keeping with her height.
There is one style of hat which seems to be, with various modifications,
universally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form of the Napoleon
style of hat.
After all, experience is the best teacher. Whenever a hat is found to be
especially becoming, one would do well to find out just why it is so and
make a note of the color, size, and general outline. These notes are of
value if kept for future reference, whether hats are to be made for the
shop or for home millinery.
A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but the aim should be to
make it so. Over-ornamentation should be guarded against, also too close
harmony in color until much experience has been gained. A rule by which
to judge of the becomingness of a hat and to which there is no exception
is this--the hat must enhance your looks. If you do not look more
pleasing with it on than with it off, it is not as good a model for you
as it might be.
In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously decide upon those colors
and outlines which are an outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as
well as any article of clothing, may express many things--dejection,
happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, dignity, graciousness, a
trained or an untrained mind, forethought, refinement, generosity,
cruelty, or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, "That hat
looks just like Mrs. Blank!" Clothing of any kind is an index to the
personality of the wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a
saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, "But I do not _feel_ like
that hat!" The saleswoman replied, "That's just it--you refuse to buy it
because you do not _feel_ like it, while I tell you that it is most
becoming." All of which showed that this saleswoman had not the most
remote idea of what was meant, and had a total lack of understanding.
Clothes _should_ be a matter of "feeling," and this same feeling is
something vital and should be catered to if our garments are to help
set our spirits free. Why should we wear anything which is misleading in
regard to ourselves? Let us look in the mirror each day and ask
ourselves whether we look to be what we wish others to think we are.
It is important in planning a hat to see it in broad daylight as well as
under artificial light. It should also be tried on in a good light while
_standing_ before a mirror, as a hat which may seem becoming while
sitting may not be so while standing, with the whole figure taken into
consideration.
To make one's own hats, using up old materials, stimulates originality
and gives opportunity for expression. It is amazing to see how many new
ideas are born when we start out to do something which we have thought
quite impossible. It all helps to give added zest to life. Making one's
own hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every woman aside from
the matter of thrift, which should always be taken into consideration.
Some one will say, "I would not wear any hat I might make." How often
have we worn unbecoming hats, poor in workmanship, besides paying some
one handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form some standard by
which to judge of the worth of a hat instead of the maker's name.
Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should be carefully looked over
to see with what the hat must be worn, and the kind of service we are
going to expect from it. Every article of a costume should be related
and harmonious as to color, outline, and suitability. The result should
be a perfect whole without a single discord. How often we see a green
skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright blue hat--each article
pleasing by itself, but atrocious when worn collectively. Bright, gay
little hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon tire of one if it
must be worn daily.
Time and our best thought are well spent in planning our apparel. The
proper clothing gives us confidence and self-respect, and the respect of
others. To be well dressed is to be free from the thought of clothes. We
judge and are judged by the clothes we wear--they are an outward
expression of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must remain silent.
"Simplicity is the keynote of beauty"--no one article of clothing should
stand out too conspicuously, unless it _is_ the hat. Nature uses bright
colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find it dark near the
ground, growing lighter near the top with its green leaves, and then the
blossom; the glory is at the _top_. Everything in nature teaches us to
_look up_. So the hat should be the crowning glory of a costume, the
center of interest, and should receive the most careful attention as to
becomingness, suitability, and workmanship.
CONTENTS
I. EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS 1
II. COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET 15
III. FRAMES OF NETEEN AND CRINOLINE 31
IV. WIRE FRAMES 35
V. ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44
VI. HAT COVERINGS 54
VII. TRIMMINGS 68
VIII. HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78
IX. REMODELING AND RENOVATING 100
ILLUSTRATIONS
SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES BASTED IN
PLACE 4
SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM 16
SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE READY TO SEW IN
PLACE 16
VARIOUS PROCESSES 36
FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID 44
ROLLING WIRE BRIM 44
ROUND CROWN OF WIRE 44
ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE 54
SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN 64
RIBBON TRIMMINGS 72
HAND-MADE FLOWERS 78
MAKE YOUR OWN HAT
CHAPTER I
EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
Thimble
Thread
Needles
Tape-measure
Pins
Tailor's chalk or pencil
Milliner's pliers or wire cutters
Scissors, large and small
Paper for patterns
_Thimble_--good quality
_Thread_--Geneva lustre, black and white, number 36. Colored thread as
needed.
_Needles_--assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 to 10.
_Tape-measure_--of good quality sateen.
_Tailor's chalk_--white and dark blue.
_Milliner's pliers_--pliers which fit the hand, not too heavy, with
blunt points, and sharp enough to cut a thread.
MATERIALS USED TO MAKE HAT FRAMES
_Fabrics_--
Buckram
Crinoline
Cape net
Neteen or Fly net
Willow plate
_Wires_--
Cable
Frame or brace wire
Lace
Tie
Ribbon
Sprung
_Paper for patterns_--
Heavy manila
BUCKRAM--
Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven inches wide--a heavy stiff
material, smooth on one side and rather rough on the other. It is more
commonly used for hat foundations than any other fabric. There is also a
summer buckram, lighter in weight and smooth on both sides.
CRINOLINE--
Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches wide--a stiff, thin,
open-meshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire
frames, and in bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on the
fabric frame.
NETEEN OR FLY NET--
A stiff open-meshed material--comes in black, white, and ecru, one yard
wide--a very popular material on account of its great pliability and
lightness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, the lines being
much softer than when made with buckram. Very durable.
CAPE NET--
A light-weight, open-meshed material used for blocking and for soft
frames. Not as pliable as neteen.
WILLOW PLATE--
A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, brittle, and very
expensive, used in blocking; frames are also made from it without
blocking.
Must be dampened before using. Not recommended for amateurs.
WIRE comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and is covered with
cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. It may be procured in single and
double bolts.
CABLE--
Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire frames, it is used as
edge wire and sometimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame
wire, it makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the wire frame
design, if it is to be covered with sheer material.
FRAME OR BRACE WIRE--
Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge of all buckram and fabric
hat frames.
LACE--
Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace ribbon and flowers, and
sometimes for making an entire frame when a very dainty design is
desired.
[Illustration: SHOWING SHAPED BRIM OF NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE BRACES
BASTED IN PLACE]
TIE--
Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on spools. Is used
to tie other wires, and in making hand-made flowers. Comes in black,
white, and green.
RIBBON--
A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch wide, with a fine wire
woven through the center, also a wire on each edge. Used to wire
ribbons.
SPRUNG--
An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims; is sometimes sewed on
edge of buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or
if a brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally used as an edge
wire on wire frames.
HAT FRAMES OF FABRIC
Much care, thought, and patience must be exercised in making the frame
of any hat. It is the foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made
no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat must be right every step
of the way. The frame is the first step, and so the most important.
The simplest hat to make is the straight brim sailor with a square
crown, covered with velvet. Such a model we will take up at first.
SAILOR HAT FRAME--
For convenience we will use the following dimensions: Width of brim,
three inches; height of crown, three and one-half inches; length of
crown tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, six and
one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four inches.
PATTERN FOR BRIM--
Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and one-half by fourteen and
one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be folded
into halves, then quarters, then into eighths and creased.
A round brim will not be of equal width all around from headsize wire,
because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and
back will both be about an inch narrower than the sides.
HEADSIZE WIRE--
TO MEASURE--This is especially important, for upon the accuracy of this
measurement depends the comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation
wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat
is to rest and add two inches to this measure. One is for lapping the
ends and the other inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which
goes up into the headsize.[7-1]
As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches long, cut a piece of frame
wire twenty-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just
mentioned. Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie wire.[7-2]
Wire always laps one inch--no more, no less.
TO SHAPE--With the hands inside, pull the circle until it is elongated
to fit the head. This headsize wire must not press unduly upon any part
of the head.
TO LOCATE HEADSIZE ON PATTERN--Lay pattern flat, pin headsize wire on
pattern with joining at back crease in paper, having the back and front
of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width. Mark
all around headsize wire with a pencil. Remove wire and cut paper
one-half inch inside this mark.
TO CUT BUCKRAM BRIM--Lay pattern on smooth side of buckram, pin, and cut
the edges very smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark location of
center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press
the buckram perfectly flat, being careful not to break or make a sharp
bend in the buckram, for if once broken it cannot be satisfactorily
repaired.
TO SEW HEADSIZE WIRE TO BRIM--First note the relation of headsize wire
to brim. If buckram is carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half
inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and will have the appearance
of a round hat when worn and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire,
the brim when finished will measure about three and one-half inches on
each side and about two and one-half inches back and front. Pin wire on
smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each
side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring
needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take
stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right
side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back
to right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is reached. Fasten
thread by taking several stitches close together over ends of wire in
order to join neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buckram
inside headsize wire every half inch and turn pieces up. This makes
small flaps to which crown may be fastened later. The brim may now be
tried on and changes made if necessary.
EDGE WIRE--
This is cut from frame wire and must be long enough to reach around edge
of brim and lap one inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of brim
as the headsize wire, which is usually the smooth side. Shape this wire
to conform to shape of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to
hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward
you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as
possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting
stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the
depth of the wire. If too shallow, the wire will slip off over the edge,
or, if too deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge leaving it
unprotected and liable to become broken and uneven-looking. A frame must
be well made in every detail to produce satisfactory results when
finished.
TO COVER EDGE WIRE--All edge wire must be covered with crinoline or a
cheap muslin. Cut a strip of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of
an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the strip. Bind the edge
wire with it, holding it very tight. Sew close to wire using a stab
stitch.
RIGHT SIDE--WRONG SIDE--
This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on right side and then a
short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch
at finish, but do not turn ends under.
SQUARE CROWN--
A square crown is one having a flat top, or one only slightly rounded,
with the sides slightly sloping in towards the top. A crown of this type
three or three and one-half inches in height would be at least one and
one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made
separately from the brim must be large enough to cover the headsize wire
on the brim at the base. To eliminate any slashes or seams in the side
crown, a paper pattern should be made. Following paragraphs explain how
this is done.
PATTERN FOR SLANTING SIDE CROWN--
Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch wider than crown height and
one-half inch longer than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper
in four equally distant places, within one-fourth inch of edge of
bottom, then lap slashes at top a little more than one-fourth inch, or
about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap
ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on
brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to
see if any alterations are necessary. It can be decided at this point
and changes made should the crown be too sloping or too straight. An
amateur should try on a frame often in order to be assured of lines and
curves that are becoming. Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top
and bottom any irregularities on the edge.
TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM--
Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in slashes to remain. Lay
pattern flat on smooth side of buckram, lengthwise of the material to
take advantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends
one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this
makes two rows of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and bottom
of side crown, keeping all joining at back. Use same method as in sewing
edge wire on brim. Cover both wires with crinoline.
CROWN TIPS--
The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking or it may be made of
buckram, producing a stiff effect. Both methods will be given.
SOFT CROWN TIP--First shape side crown to fit headsize wire on brim,
which will be an ellipse. Cut piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the
crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a very
little, and sew with stab stitch close under wire. Cut surplus material
off to one-fourth inch.
STIFF CROWN TIP, MADE OF BUCKRAM--Lay top of side crown on smooth side
of buckram and mark the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half inch
outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip,
it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the
pencil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch apart. Cut them
close to the line drawn. Pin this piece on top of crown, press flaps
down and sew on with stab stitch.
CROWNS--
If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to buy a ten-cent
separate crown or a frame with a round crown. If an entire frame is
purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill
has been acquired by the student of millinery, a round crown of fabric
may be blocked by hand over a wire crown.
TO COVER ROUND CROWN--
Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. Pull with the straight
of the material and pin just below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch
below this with stab stitch, trim material off close under this
stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of material, using same method
and measurements as for side crown of velvet sailor in chapter II. Sew
the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this
bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom
of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in
finishing edge of facing on brim.[13-1] This makes a neat finish for a
hat which will demand little trimming. If the amateur finds it too
difficult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, the edge may
be covered with a fold of material or a narrow ribbon; the top may also
be finished by a narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire should
be mastered if possible, as this style of finish is used in many places.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 7-1: To cut wire see chapter IV.]
[Footnote 7-2: To tie wire see chapter IV.]
[Footnote 13-1: See chapter II.]