The entrance to the outer bay is called Port William. About twenty miles
up this bay, an English colony is established. The entrance to Port
William is designated by a tall flag-staff. At the time of our arrival,
it was blowing a close-reefed-topsail breeze, directly down the bay;
and, as night was approaching, the captain deemed it advisable to select
the most sheltered situation at hand, and anchor until morning.
Formerly, this colony was located up Berkley’s Sound, and called Port
Louis. It has since been removed to its present site, and styled Port
Stanley. The Falkland Islands are situated in the South Atlantic Ocean,
where the mariner guides his course at night by the sacred constellation
of the Southern Cross, and between the parallels of 51 deg. and 53 deg.
south, and extending from 57 deg. to nearly 62 deg. west. The only two
of considerable size are the East and West Falkland. These are separated
by a channel. Around these islands are numerous rocks, whose distance
from the shores, where tides run strongly, and winds are violent as well
as sudden, renders it rather difficult to navigate. In approaching land,
and particularly when entering a harbor, a good look-out should be kept
for fixed kelp, which grows upon every rock covered by the sea, and not
far below the surface. Lying upon the water, the leaves and stalk serve
as well as a buoy to warn of hidden danger. A region more exposed to
storms, both in summer and winter, it would be difficult to mention.
High winds are prevalent, and very violent at times. During the summer,
a calm day is an extraordinary event. Generally speaking, the nights are
less windy than the days. Altogether, the appearance of these lonely
isles of the South are dismal and uninviting in the extreme. Moorland
and black bog extend in nearly every direction; although there are
valleys affording coarse, excellent grass, upon which thousands of wild
cattle subsist. Some tracts of land, I was informed, at the southern
part of the island, were low, level, and abundantly productive of
excellent herbage. Many years since, the French and Spanish left, at
different times, cattle and horses upon the isle. They have multiplied
and increased, until they now estimate the number at a hundred thousand
head that are roaming wild over the hills.
The ship being safely moored, I entreated my husband to take me on
shore. After much persuasion, he consented. A boat was lowered, in
which, after much difficulty, I was placed. This was effected by tying a
rope around my waist, and lowering me down the ship’s side; then
watching an opportunity when the boat was in a right position, to “lower
away.” This method was of necessity adopted, the sea being so rough, I
lacked the courage to leave the ship the usual way. When my feet were
placed once more on _terra firma_, I inwardly resolved never again to
return on ship-board. We wandered from the shore to the top of a small
eminence, from whence, at a little distance, we descried a shanty.
We approached, and, judging from the writing found upon the walls, it
had been the resort of sailors thrown upon that inhospitable coast. In
it was a sort of stone fire-place, on which the sailors placed some
dried heather found in the hut, which, when ignited, threw out a ruddy
blaze that sent its cheering beams directly to the heart. On our way to
the hut, we noticed several perforations in the earth. One of the
sailors, desirous of investigating the origin of these holes, thrust his
hand into one of them, but instantly withdrew it with a smothered oath,
and an expression evincing acute pain. Immediately, out rushed a
penguin, displaying unmistakable symptoms of a fight. Every hole
contained a penguin, secreted there for the purpose of incubation. The
sailors, of course, exasperated that a brother shipmate should receive
such treatment as a reward for his prying curiosity, routed the whole
posse of penguins, and a regular hand-to-hand battle ensued; for to the
penguins can never be imputed one particle of cowardice, when the call
for action is the defence of her eggs or young. Victory was, of course,
conceded to the strongest party. But not always does “might make right.”
Nothing could be seen in any direction inland but barren hills; yet,
cheerless as was the prospect on shore, no entreaty, or even command, of
my husband, could induce me to return to that burning ship. Here was a
sad dilemma for my husband to be placed in. A sense of duty called him
on board; yet he could not leave me on shore all night without a
protector. Finally, at the intercession of the mate, who volunteered to
take good care of the ship, he reluctantly consented to remain with me,
although he spent the greater part of the night watching the ship.
Next morning, as we were about to repair to the boat,--for, upon
reflection, I concluded that to be the only way by which the settlement
could be reached,--a horseman appeared in the distance, riding at a
furious pace directly for us. As he approached, and reined in his
jet-black steed in front of our party, I certainly never beheld such a
perfect specimen of equestrian grace and manly beauty.
Springing from his horse, he accosted us in a language unintelligible to
all except “Old Tom,” as he was designated by his shipmates. He proved
to be one of a class of men denominated guachos, who are employed in
lassoing and bringing in wild cattle. Tom soon acquainted him with every
particular concerning us; whereupon he insisted that the capitan’s
señora should go with him to his ranch, about four miles distant, where
every attention would be lavished by his señora to render me comfortable
until I could proceed to the settlement. Tom interpreted the
invitation, which, of course, I declined accepting, feeling a reluctancy
to go with him alone. Discovering my hesitancy, he endeavored to remove
all objections by bestowing several flattering encomiums upon my
personal appearance, which were certainly ill-starred, and served only
to increase my unwillingness to go with him unattended. It was at length
decided that the second mate should accompany me.
Our Spanish friend laughed at the idea of my being afraid to mount his
spirited horse, and even objecting to be seated in front of him--the
manner in which they often ride with señoritas. He mounted his horse
alone; while Mr. Wood and myself walked by his side. My husband returned
to the ship. We found it very tiresome travelling over the bogs, with
the wind blowing almost a gale. After panting and puffing, and being
obliged several times to stop and recover breath, we reached the top of
a little eminence; and there, sure enough, was the veritable ranch. It
looked so pleasant and home-like about the little cottage, that in vain
I endeavored to repress those outgushings of the heart engendered by the
sight of objects which recalled vividly to mind home, and all the warm
and kindly associations connected therewith.
A lovely little Spanish woman met us at the door, and, after exchanging
a few words with her husband, she embraced me affectionately, led me to
a pleasant little room looking out upon the bay, and placed a loaf of
bread and pitcher of milk on a table by my side. She seemed really
grieved because I could not swallow one mouthful. My feelings were fast
gaining the ascendency. So much sympathy as she expressed, by her
gestures and tender offices, completely won my affections.
I had taken very little food after learning the ship was on fire, and,
with feelings all the while wrought to such a state of excitement, the
revulsion well-nigh prostrated me. In the meantime, word had reached the
settlement that there was a ship in distress outside, and a number of
the most popular men of the place had started to render any necessary
assistance. Sometime after noon, they reached the Spaniard’s house,
where we were, and learning of Mr. Wood the particulars, took him into
the boat, and, with the exception of three of them, proceeded to meet
the ship. It was blowing so hard, they would be compelled to beat the
ship up the bay, which would, of course, occupy some time.
Mr. Hamlin, the physician, the surveyor-general, and the clergyman, (the
three who remained,) proposed taking the sail-boat belonging to the
Spaniard, and take me at once to the colony; and, as their ladies were
English, it would be pleasanter than to remain where I was.
Therefore, I bade adieu to my beautiful Spanish friend, and about
sundown reached the narrow entrance to the inner harbor. Two large
wooden men stand on each side of the entrance, pointing towards the
town. Passing through, you find yourself in one of the nicest,
land-locked harbors in the world, where ships of the largest tonnage can
lie in safety.
The town is built at the base of the hills, which rise gradually from
this beautiful basin. How far away from the busy, bustling world seemed
this little hamlet! and how quiet and serene, I thought, must pass the
lives of those dwelling upon this remote isle! The sun was shedding his
last golden rays upon the surrounding hill-tops, before retiring to his
hesperian couch. While inanimate nature was welcoming me to this haven
of rest, how inexpressibly lonely I felt at heart, surrounded by
strangers! No doubt they would extend a friendly greeting; but, oh, how
my heart yearned for the warm welcome of some home-friend!
Mr. Hamlin took me to his house, where I was cordially received by his
amiable lady, and nothing was omitted that could in any way contribute
to my comfort, or serve to dispel those home-sick feelings which
naturally acquired the ascendency. That night, sleep was a stranger to
my pillow. I shall ever remember Mrs. Hamlin with feelings of affection.
No kind mother could have bathed my aching head more tenderly. Oh, there
is a magnetic power in kindness! Kind words are always winning, whether
from friend or stranger.
Late in the afternoon, the ship appeared at the entrance. After dropping
anchor, my husband called a survey, opened her hatches, and found her to
be so badly on fire, they decided to run her ashore, and scuttle her. He
selected a spot which happened to be opposite the little grave-yard.
Slowly and majestically was she wafted to her place of rest. Never more
would she gallantly breast old ocean’s wave. With tearful eyes I watched
her motions. She had been my home so long, I loved her as such. They cut
holes in her side, and sank her in depth of water sufficient to cover
the fire. For two days she was enveloped in steam, which precluded all
possibility of gaining the deck. After the fire was extinguished, they
stopped the holes, and worked the pumps incessantly, without
diminishing in the least the depth of water in the ship. She had
bilged; her beams and stancheons were burnt off; and her lower deck had
fallen in. She was condemned and sold at auction. It was our intention
to go directly home, as soon as an opportunity presented. The isolated
situation of the island prevented its being visited often, especially by
ships homeward-bound; therefore, our stay there might be indefinitely
protracted. There were about four hundred inhabitants in this remote
colony, consisting of English, Spanish, and French. The people were
under the immediate jurisdiction of a governor, who ruled with despotic
power. The governor, clergyman, doctor, governor’s secretary,
surveyor-general, and lawyer, are appointed by the queen, and receive a
salary of four hundred pounds sterling per year, with the exception of
the governor, who has eight hundred. These, with their families, also
Lloyd’s agent, and _the_ merchant, constitute the gentry, as they style
themselves. The governor lives in princely style. To be seated in his
reception-room, one would imagine himself in some English palace.
Everything has been transported from England--both house and furniture.
All the frame-buildings on the island were brought either from England
or the main-land. Those of the poorer class were mere huts, constructed
of peat and stone. Peat is also used by them for fuel. Those only who
receive a salary can indulge in the luxury of a coal fire.
There is not a tree on the island, with the exception of a few apologies
for the same in the governor’s garden. They, upon being transplanted
into such ungenial soil, had assumed a stinted, sickly appearance.
The governor was a stern, austere-looking personage, greatly to be
feared, and seldom loved. One little incident, that came under my own
immediate perception, I will relate. It will serve, in a measure, to
illustrate his arbitrary propensities. His household consisted of
himself, wife, and two sons. The eldest was an imbecile, and so
perfectly child-like in his disposition, that he readily won the
sympathy of all the inhabitants. The youngest was a wild, head-strong
sort of a chap, about fourteen years of age. For him they had employed a
young governess, whom they brought with them from England. This young
lady they treated more like a menial than as a companion for their
children. They looked upon the young instructress as one born to labor
and endure, seemingly unconscious that there were as deep fountains of
sorrow and love in her heart as there was in those who were fostered in
wealth and luxury. One evening, there was a social gathering at the
house of Mr. W----; and, of course, Miss T----, being an accomplished
and intelligent young person, was present. Upon preparing to leave,
early in the evening, (as she was required to be in by nine o’clock,)
Mr. W---- proposed to accompany her, as her path lay near the barracks,
where were always assembled a drunken, riotous set. Next morning, he
received a note from the governor, requesting his immediate presence.
Mrs. W---- felt quite alarmed at the thought of her husband incurring
the displeasure of his majesty. Upon appearing before this august
personage, he received a severe reprimand for so far forgetting his
station as a gentleman as to escort home one whom he considered as a
dependent upon his bounty, and also assured him, if he was guilty of the
like offence again, he should consider him deficient in all that
constituted a gentleman.
The governor’s wife boasted of being a descendant of the “fair maid of
Perth.” I have no reason to doubt the tie of consanguinity, although she
certainly had not inherited any of the personal attractions of her
lovely progenitor.
They were all very kind to us, showing every respect and attention.
Doubtless, I often shocked them with my Yankee provincialisms. Every
family of note had magnificent side-boards, stored with the choicest
kinds of liquors and cordials. It was considered a breach of etiquette
to refuse to partake of the good cheer set before you. What would our
American ladies at the present day think of having such an array set
before them, when making their accustomed calls? Yet it is universally
practised here.
To diminish our expenses, we concluded to go to housekeeping. My husband
rented the only vacant building in the place, a miserable, barn-like
shanty, for which he paid the exorbitant sum of thirty dollars per
month. Thither we moved ourselves: we had little else to move. Nearly
every one contributed some article of domestic use. Our larder was
supplied with wild-fowl and beef, also a species of fish which are taken
from the numerous streams which intersect the country. They are
designated trout, but do not in appearance or flavor resemble our own
speckled trout, which by epicures are considered such a nice treat. No
kind of vegetables could be procured at any price. The inclemency of the
weather, even in summer months, precludes the growth of the most hardy
kind. Cold storms of hail and sleet are of frequent occurrence in
summer. One gentleman, by inclosing a piece of ground with a high peat
wall to shelter it from the cold winds, had managed, by dint of great
exertion, to raise a few cabbages.
Often, when seated at my window, my attention had been attracted towards
a lovely little girl, with soft dark eyes, and long auburn ringlets
hanging in rich profusion over her shoulders. She was usually
accompanied by a tall, dignified, melancholy-looking individual, who, I
afterwards learned, stood in the relation of father. His very
countenance, which was seldom irradiated by a smile, bore traces of
ineffable sorrow. They would spend hours in sailing around the bay in a
fancy yacht, which he kept moored opposite our house. Upon inquiry, I
learned that for some time the gossiping and wonder-loving portion of
the community had been kept in constant agitation regarding the mystery
that surrounded Mr. Montague (for by that name was he known) and his
family. He kept himself aloof from all society; and the only servant he
kept had never been known to speak an intelligible word to any one. She
seemed devotedly attached to her master, and guarded little Myrtie with
watchful tenderness. Myrtie came to my door one day, bringing me a
basket of nice little fish, and gracefully presented them, saying that
she often amused herself by fishing. After that, she became a daily
visitor. Daily my interest in that child increased. She was wonderfully
endued with intellectual powers for one of her years. One day, she said
to me, “Do you know why I brought you those fish? and what brings me
every day to see you?” I told her I did not. Said she, “I do so love to
look in your face! It makes me feel happy. I always think of some one I
loved well, and called mamma. It seems such a long time ago,--so _very_
long,--I sometimes think it was a dream. But, since you came here, I can
remember more. I can recollect she looked like you; and, when you smile,
you look as she used to, when she would kiss me, and call me her little
darling. Oh, I remember how I cried when a tall, dark-looking man
snatched me from my mamma’s arms,--how she looked, as she ran screaming
after us!
“I never saw her again. Then old ‘Nurse Bell’ took care of me. We sailed
on the water a long, long time before we came here.” Her papa, she said,
“was very kind, and she loved him; but she could love him better, if he
would talk more about mamma.” When she asked him to tell her _all_
about her, he would shake his head, look very gloomy, and say, “Your
mamma is in heaven.” Her father was her only instructor, and she was far
advanced in her studies. He also taught her music: she played and sang
sweetly. For once I felt inclined to pardon the inquisitive; for they
certainly had food for idle speculation. Dear little Myrtie! often have
I sighed when thinking of your lonely situation, uncheered by the
presence of that guardian angel of childhood--a mother--on whom you
could bestow that wealth of affection concentrated in an almost _too_
confiding and sensitive heart.
The winter preceding our arrival at the islands had been one of unusual
inclemency. Communication with the main-land was entirely cut off before
the winter’s supply of hay and grain had been procured. In consequence,
the cattle suffered incredibly. The snow, for two months, lay upon the
ground to the depth of two feet. All the sustenance the cattle could
obtain was insufficient to keep off starvation. They were often found
dead, thirty and forty in heaps together.
When the English first established this colony, they intended to export
hides, tallow, seal-skins, and seal-oil. As yet, they have shipped no
tallow. Sealing is carried on to a considerable extent.
England’s convicts, when banished to the sunny isle of Australia, are
not as deserving of the sympathy of the philanthropist as are those old
pensioners, to the number of thirty, who, with their families, have been
induced, by the promises held out to them, and which they have found, to
their sorrow, can never be fulfilled, to leave merry England, for a home
on these barren islands.