This first night and dawn in the heard of his wilderness, with the new
import of life gleaming down at him from the mighty peaks of the
Chugach and Kenai ranges, marked the beginning of that uplift which
drew Alan out of the pit into which he had fallen. He understood, now,
how it was that through many long years his father had worshiped the
memory of a woman who had died, it seemed to him, an infinity ago.
Unnumbered times he had seen the miracle of her presence in his
father’s eyes, and once, when they had stood overlooking a sun-filled
valley back in the mountains, the elder Holt had said:
“Twenty-seven years ago the twelfth day of last month, mother went with
me through this valley, Alan. Do you see the little bend in the creek,
with the great rock in the sun? We rested there—before you were born!”
He had spoken of that day as if it had been but yesterday. And Alan
recalled the strange happiness in his father’s face as he had looked
down upon something in the valley which no other but himself could see.
And it was happiness, the same strange, soul-aching happiness, that
began to build itself a house close up against the grief in Alan’s
heart. It would never be a house quite empty. Never again would he be
alone. He knew at last it was an undying part of him, as it had been a
part of his father, clinging to him in sweet pain, encouraging him,
pressing gently upon him the beginning of a great faith that somewhere
beyond was a place to meet again. In the many days that followed, it
grew in him, but in a way no man or woman could see. It was a secret
about which he built a wall, setting it apart from that stoical
placidity of his nature which some people called indifference. Olaf
could see farther than others, because he had known Alan’s father as a
brother. It had always been that way with the elder Holt—straight,
clean, deep-breathing, and with a smile on his lips in times of hurt.
Olaf had seen him face death like that. He had seen him rise up with
awesome courage from the beautiful form that had turned to clay under
his eyes, and fight forth again into a world burned to ashes. Something
of that look which he had seen in the eyes of the father he saw in
Alan’s, in these days when they nosed their way up the Alaskan coast
together. Only to himself did Alan speak the name of Mary Standish,
just as his father had kept Elizabeth Holt’s name sacred in his own
heart. Olaf, with mildly casual eyes and strong in the possession of
memories, observed how much alike they were, but discretion held his
tongue, and he said nothing to Alan of many things that ran in his
mind.
He talked of Siberia—always of Siberia, and did not hurry on the way to
Seward. Alan himself felt no great urge to make haste. The days were
soft with the premature breath of summer. The nights were cold, and
filled with stars. Day after day mountains hung about them like mighty
castles whose battlements reached up into the cloud-draperies of the
sky. They kept close to the mainland and among the islands, camping
early each evening. Birds were coming northward by the thousand, and
each night Olaf’s camp-fire sent up the delicious aroma of flesh-pots
and roasts. When at last they reached Seward, and the time came for
Olaf to turn back, there was an odd blinking in the old Swede’s eyes,
and as a final comfort Alan told him again that the day would probably
come when he would go to Siberia with him. After that, he watched the
_Norden_ until the little boat was lost in the distance of the sea.
Alone, Alan felt once more a greater desire to reach his own country.
And he was fortunate. Two days after his arrival at Seward the steamer
which carried mail and the necessities of life to the string of
settlements reaching a thousand miles out into the Pacific left
Resurrection Bay, and he was given passage. Thereafter the countless
islands of the North Pacific drifted behind, while always northward
were the gray cliffs of the Alaskan Peninsula, with the ramparted
ranges beyond, glistening with glaciers, smoking with occasional
volcanoes, and at times so high their snowy peaks were lost in the
clouds. First touching the hatchery at Karluk and then the canneries at
Uyak and Chignik, the mail boat visited the settlements on the Island
of Unga, and thence covered swiftly the three hundred miles to Dutch
Harbor and Unalaska. Again he was fortunate. Within a week he was
berthed on a freighter, and on the twelfth day of June set foot in
Nome.
His home-coming was unheralded, but the little, gray town, with its
peculiar, black shadowings, its sea of stove-pipes, and its two
solitary brick chimneys, brought a lump of joy into his throat as he
watched its growing outlines from the small boat that brought him
ashore. He could see one of the only two brick chimneys in northern
Alaska gleaming in the sun; beyond it, fifty miles away, were the
ragged peaks of the Saw-Tooth Range, looking as if one might walk to
them in half an hour, and over all the world between seemed to hover a
misty gloom. But it was where he had lived, where happiness and tragedy
and unforgetable memories had come to him, and the welcoming of its
frame buildings, its crooked streets, and what to others might have
been ugliness, was a warm and thrilling thing. For here were his
_people_. Here were the men and women who were guarding the northern
door of the world, an epic place, filled with strong hearts, courage,
and a love of country as inextinguishable as one’s love of life. From
this drab little place, shut out from all the world for half the year,
young men and women went down to southern universities, to big cities,
to the glamor and lure of “outside.” But they always came back. Nome
called them. Its loneliness in winter. Its gray gloom in springtime.
Its glory in summer and autumn. It was the breeding-place of a new race
of men, and they loved it as Alan loved it. To him the black wireless
tower meant more than the Statue of Liberty, the three weather-beaten
church spires more than the architectural colossi of New York and
Washington. Beside one of the churches he had played as a boy. He had
seen the steeples painted. He had helped make the crooked streets. And
his mother had laughed and lived and died here, and his father’s
footprints had been in the white sands of the beach when tents dotted
the shore like gulls.
When he stepped ashore, people stared at him and then greeted him. He
was unexpected. And the surprise of his arrival added strength to the
grip which men’s hands gave him. He had not heard voices like theirs
down in the States, with a gladness in them that was almost excitement.
Small boys ran up to his side, and with white men came the Eskimo,
grinning and shaking his hands. Word traveled swiftly that Alan Holt
had come back from the States. Before the day was over, it was on its
way to Shelton and Candle and Keewalik and Kotzebue Sound. Such was the
beginning of his home-coming. But ahead of the news of his arrival Alan
walked up Front Street, stopped at Bahlke’s restaurant for a cup of
coffee, and then dropped casually into Lomen’s offices in the Tin Bank
Building.
For a week Alan remained in Nome. Carl Lomen had arrived a few days
before, and his brothers were “in” from the big ranges over on the
Choris Peninsula. It had been a good winter and promised to be a
tremendously successful summer. The Lomen herds would exceed forty
thousand head, when the final figures were in. A hundred other herds
were prospering, and the Eskimo and Lapps were full-cheeked and plump
with good feeding and prosperity. A third of a million reindeer were on
the hoof in Alaska, and the breeders were exultant. Pretty good, when
compared with the fact that in 1902 there were less than five thousand!
In another twenty years there would be ten million.
But with this prosperity of the present and still greater promise for
the future Alan sensed the undercurrent of unrest and suspicion in
Nome. After waiting and hoping through another long winter, with their
best men fighting for Alaska’s salvation at Washington, word was
traveling from mouth to mouth, from settlement to settlement, and from
range to range, that the Bureaucracy which misgoverned them from
thousands of miles away was not lifting a hand to relieve them. Federal
office-holders refused to surrender their deadly power, and their
strangling methods were to continue. Coal, which should cost ten
dollars a ton if dug from Alaskan mines, would continue to cost forty
dollars; cold storage from Nome would continue to be fifty-two dollars
a ton, when it should be twenty. Commercial brigandage was still given
letters of marque. Bureaus were fighting among themselves for greater
power, and in the turmoil Alaska was still chained like a starving man
just outside the reach of all the milk and honey in a wonderful land.
Pauperizing, degrading, actually killing, the political misrule that
had already driven 25 per cent of Alaska’s population from their homes
was to continue indefinitely. A President of the United States had
promised to visit the mighty land of the north and see with his own
eyes. But would he come? There had been other promises, many of them,
and promises had always been futile. But it was a hope that crept
through Alaska, and upon this hope men whose courage never died began
to build. Freedom was on its way, even if slowly. Justice must triumph
ultimately, as it always triumphed. Rusty keys would at last be turned
in the locks which had kept from Alaskans all the riches and resources
of their country, and these men were determined to go on building
against odds that they might be better prepared for that freedom of
human endeavor when it came.
In these days, when the fires of achievement needed to be encouraged,
and not smothered, neither Alan nor Carl Lomen emphasized the menace of
gigantic financial interests like that controlled by John
Graham—interests fighting to do away with the best friend Alaska ever
had, the Biological Survey, and backing with all their power the
ruinous legislation to put Alaska in the control of a group of five men
that an aggrandizement even more deadly than a suffocating policy of
conservation might be more easily accomplished. Instead, they spread
the optimism of men possessed of inextinguishable faith. The blackest
days were gone. Rifts were breaking in the clouds. Intelligence was
creeping through, like rays of sunshine. The end of Alaska’s serfdom
was near at hand. So they preached, and knew they were preaching truth,
for what remained of Alaska’s men after years of hopelessness and
distress were fighting men. And the women who had remained with them
were the mothers and wives of a new nation in the making.
These mothers and wives Alan met during his week in Nome. He would have
given his life if a few million people in the States could have known
these women. Something would have happened then, and the sisterhood of
half a continent—possessing the power of the ballot—would have opened
their arms to them. Men like John Graham would have gone out of
existence; Alaska would have received her birthright. For these women
were of the kind who greeted the sun each day, and the gloom of winter,
with something greater than hope in their hearts. They, too, were
builders. Fear of God and love of land lay deep in their souls, and
side by side with their men-folk they went on in this epic struggle for
the building of a nation at the top of the world.
Many times during this week Alan felt it in his heart to speak of Mary
Standish. But in the end, not even to Carl Lomen did word of her escape
his lips. The passing of each day had made her more intimately a part
of him, and a secret part. He could not tell people about her. He even
made evasions when questioned about his business and experiences at
Cordova and up the coast. Curiously, she seemed nearer to him when he
was away from other men and women. He remembered it had been that way
with his father, who was always happiest when in the deep mountains or
the unending tundras. And so Alan thrilled with an inner gladness when
his business was finished and the day came for him to leave Nome.
Carl Lomen went with him as far as the big herd on Choris Peninsula.
For one hundred miles, up to Shelton, they rode over a narrow-gauge,
four-foot railway on a hand-car drawn by dogs. And it seemed to Alan,
at times, as though Mary Standish were with him, riding in this strange
way through a great wilderness. He could _see_ her. That was the
strange thing which began to possess him. There were moments when her
eyes were shining softly upon him, her lips smiling, her presence so
real he might have spoken to her if Lomen had not been at his side. He
did not fight against these visionings. It pleased him to think of her
going with him into the heart of Alaska, riding the picturesque
“pup-mobile,” losing herself in the mountains and in his tundras, with
all the wonder and glory of a new world breaking upon her a little at a
time, like the unfolding of a great mystery. For there was both wonder
and glory in these countless miles running ahead and drifting behind,
and the miracle of northward-sweeping life. The days were long. Night,
as Mary Standish had always known night, was gone. On the twentieth of
June there were twenty hours of day, with a dim and beautiful twilight
between the hours of eleven and one. Sleep was no longer a matter of
the rising and setting of the sun, but was regulated by the hands of
the watch. A world frozen to the core for seven months was bursting
open like a great flower.
From Shelton, Alan and his companion visited the eighty or ninety
people at Candle, and thence continued down the Keewalik River to
Keewalik, on Kotzebue Sound. A Lomen power-boat, run by Lapps, carried
them to Choris Peninsula, where for a week Alan remained with Lomen and
his huge herd of fifteen thousand reindeer. He was eager to go on, but
tried to hide his impatience. Something was urging him, whipping him on
to greater haste. For the first time in months he heard the crackling
thunder of reindeer hoofs, and the music of it was like a wild call
from his own herds hurrying him home. He was glad when the week-end
came and his business was done. The power-boat took him to Kotzebue. It
was night, as his watch went, when Paul Davidovich started up the delta
of the Kobuk River with him in a lighterage company’s boat. But there
was no darkness. In the afternoon of the fourth day they came to the
Redstone, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Kobuk as the river
winds. They had supper together on the shore. After that Paul
Davidovich turned back with the slow sweep of the current, waving his
hand until he was out of sight.
Not until the sound of the Russian’s motor-boat was lost in distance
did Alan sense fully the immensity of the freedom that swept upon him.
At last, after months that had seemed like so many years, he was
_alone_. North and eastward stretched the unmarked trail which he knew
so well, a hundred and fifty miles straight as a bird might fly, almost
unmapped, unpeopled, right up to the doors of his range in the slopes
of the Endicott Mountains. A little cry from his own lips gave him a
start. It was as if he had called out aloud to Tautuk and Amuk Toolik,
and to Keok and Nawadlook, telling them he was on his way home and
would soon be there. Never had this hidden land which he had found for
himself seemed so desirable as it did in this hour. There was something
about it that was all-mothering, all-good, all-sweetly-comforting to
that other thing which had become a part of him now. It was holding out
its arms to him, understanding, welcoming, inspiring him to travel
strongly and swiftly the space between. And he was ready to answer its
call.
He looked at his watch. It was five o’clock in the afternoon. He had
spent a long day with the Russian, but he felt no desire for rest or
sleep. The musk-tang of the tundras, coming to him through the thin
timber of the river-courses, worked like an intoxicant in his blood. It
was the tundra he wanted, before he lay down upon his back with his
face to the stars. He was eager to get away from timber and to feel the
immeasurable space of the big country, the open country, about him.
What fool had given to it the name of _Barren Lands_? What idiots
people were to lie about it in that way on the maps! He strapped his
pack over his shoulders and seized his rifle. Barren Lands!
He set out, walking like a man in a race. And long before the twilight
hours of sleep they were sweeping out ahead of him in all their
glory—the Barren Lands of the map-makers, _his_ paradise. On a knoll he
stood in the golden sun and looked about him. He set his pack down and
stood with bared head, a whispering of cool wind in his hair. If Mary
Standish could have lived to see _this_! He stretched out his arms, as
if pointing for her eyes to follow, and her name was in his heart and
whispering on his silent lips. Immeasurable the tundras reached ahead
of him—rolling, sweeping, treeless, green and golden and a glory of
flowers, athrill with a life no forest land had ever known. Under his
feet was a crush of forget-me-nots and of white and purple violets,
their sweet perfume filling his lungs as he breathed. Ahead of him lay
a white sea of yellow-eyed daisies, with purple iris high as his knees
in between, and as far as he could see, waving softly in the breeze,
was the cotton-tufted sedge he loved. The pods were green. In a few
days they would be opening, and the tundras would be white carpets.
He listened to the call of life. It was about him everywhere, a melody
of bird-life subdued and sleepy even though the sun was still warmly
aglow in the sky. A hundred times he had watched this miracle of bird
instinct, the going-to-bed of feathered creatures in the weeks and
months when there was no real night. He picked up his pack and went on.
From a pool hidden in the lush grasses of a distant hollow came to him
the twilight honking of nesting geese and the quacking content of wild
ducks. He heard the reed-like, musical notes of a lone “organ-duck” and
the plaintive cries of plover, and farther out, where the shadows
seemed deepening against the rim of the horizon, rose the harsh,
rolling notes of cranes and the raucous cries of the loons. And then,
from a clump of willows near him, came the chirping twitter of a thrush
whose throat was tired for the day, and the sweet, sleepy evening song
of a robin. _Night!_ Alan laughed softly, the pale flush of the sun in
his face. _Bedtime!_ He looked at his watch.
It was nine o’clock. Nine o’clock, and the flowers still answering to
the glow of the sun! And the people down there—in the States—called it
a frozen land, a hell of ice and snow at the end of the earth, a place
of the survival of the fittest! Well, to just such extremes had
stupidity and ignorance gone through all the years of history, even
though men called themselves super-creatures of intelligence and
knowledge. It was humorous. And it was tragic.
At last he came to a shining pool between two tufted ridges, and in
this velvety hollow the twilight was gathering like a shadow in a cup.
A little creek ran out of the pool, and here Alan gathered soft grass
and spread out his blankets. A great stillness drew in about him,
broken only by the old squaws and the loons. At eleven o’clock he could
still see clearly the sleeping water-fowl on the surface of the pool.
But the stars were appearing. It grew duskier, and the rose-tint of the
sun faded into purple gloom as pale night drew near—four hours of rest
that was neither darkness nor day. With a pillow of sedge and grass
under his head he slept.
The song and cry of bird-life wakened him, and at dawn he bathed in the
pool, with dozens of fluffy, new-born ducks dodging away from him among
the grasses and reeds. That day, and the next, and the day after that
he traveled steadily into the heart of the tundra country, swiftly and
almost without rest. It seemed to him, at last, that he must be in that
country where all the bird-life of the world was born, for wherever
there was water, in the pools and little streams and the hollows
between the ridges, the voice of it in the morning was a babel of
sound. Out of the sweet breast of the earth he could feel the
irresistible pulse of motherhood filling him with its strength and its
courage, and whispering to him its everlasting message that because of
the glory and need and faith of life had God created this land of
twenty-hour day and four-hour twilight. In it, in these days of summer,
was no abiding place for gloom; yet in his own heart, as he drew nearer
to his home, was a place of darkness which its light could not quite
enter.
The tundras had made Mary Standish more real to him. In the treeless
spaces, in the vast reaches with only the sky shutting out his vision,
she seemed to be walking nearer to him, almost with her hand in his. At
times it was like a torture inflicted upon him for his folly, and when
he visioned what might have been, and recalled too vividly that it was
he who had stilled with death that living glory which dwelt with him in
spirit now, a crying sob of which he was not ashamed came from his
lips. For when he thought too deeply, he knew that Mary Standish would
have lived if he had said other things to her that night aboard the
ship. She had died, not for him, but _because_ of him—because, in his
failure to live up to what she believed she had found in him, he had
broken down what must have been her last hope and her final faith. If
he had been less blind, and God had given him the inspiration of a
greater wisdom, she would have been walking with him now, laughing in
the rose-tinted dawn, growing tired amid the flowers, sleeping under
the clear stars—happy and unafraid, and looking to him for all things.
At least so he dreamed, in his immeasurable loneliness.
He did not tolerate the thought that other forces might have called her
even had she lived, and that she might not have been his to hold and to
fight for. He did not question the possibility of shackles and chains
that might have bound her, or other inclinations that might have led
her. He claimed her, now that she was dead, and knew that living he
would have possessed her. Nothing could have kept him from that. But
she was gone. And for that he was accountable, and the fifth night he
lay sleepless under the stars, and like a boy he cried for her with his
face upon his arm, and when morning came, and he went on, never had the
world seemed so vast and empty.
His face was gray and haggard, a face grown suddenly old, and he
traveled slowly, for the desire to reach his people was dying within
him. He could not laugh with Keok and Nawadlook, or give the old tundra
call to Amuk Toolik and his people, who would be riotous in their
happiness at his return. They loved him. He knew that. Their love had
been a part of his life, and the knowledge that his response to this
love would be at best a poor and broken thing filled him with dread. A
strange sickness crept through his blood; it grew in his head, so that
when noon came, he did not trouble himself to eat.
It was late in the afternoon when he saw far ahead of him the clump of
cottonwoods near the warm springs, very near his home. Often he had
come to these old cottonwoods, an oasis of timber lost in the great
tundras, and he had built himself a little camp among them. He loved
the place. It had seemed to him that now and then he must visit the
forlorn trees to give them cheer and comradeship. His father’s name was
carved in the bole of the greatest of them all, and under it the date
and day when the elder Holt had discovered them in a land where no man
had gone before. And under his father’s name was his mother’s, and
under that, his own. He had made of the place a sort of shrine, a green
and sweet-flowered tabernacle of memories, and its bird-song and peace
in summer and the weird aloneness of it in winter had played their
parts in the making of his soul. Through many months he had anticipated
this hour of his home-coming, when in the distance he would see the
beckoning welcome of the old cottonwoods, with the rolling foothills
and frosted peaks of the Endicott Mountains beyond. And now he was
looking at the trees and the mountains, and something was lacking in
the thrill of them. He came up from the west, between two willow ridges
through which ran the little creek from the warm springs, and he was
within a quarter of a mile of them when something stopped him in his
tracks.
At first he thought the sound was the popping of guns, but in a moment
he knew it could not be so, and the truth flashed suddenly upon him.
This day was the Fourth of July, and someone in the cottonwoods was
shooting firecrackers!
A smile softened his lips. He recalled Keok’s mischievous habit of
lighting a whole bunch at one time, for which apparent wastefulness
Nawadlook never failed to scold her. They had prepared for his
home-coming with a celebration, and Tautuk and Amuk Toolik had probably
imported a supply of “bing-bangs” from Allakakat or Tanana. The
oppressive weight inside him lifted, and the smile remained on his
lips. And then as if commanded by a voice, his eyes turned to the dead
cottonwood stub which had sentineled the little oasis of trees for many
years. At the very crest of it, floating bravely in the breeze that
came with the evening sun, was an American flag!
He laughed softly. These were the people who loved him, who thought of
him, who wanted him back. His heart beat faster, stirred by the old
happiness, and he drew himself quickly into a strip of willows that
grew almost up to the cottonwoods. He would surprise them! He would
walk suddenly in among them, unseen and unheard. That was the sort of
thing that would amaze and delight them.
He came to the first of the trees and concealed himself carefully. He
heard the popping of individual firecrackers and the louder bang of one
of the “giants” that always made Nawadlook put her fingers in her
pretty ears. He crept stealthily over a knoll, down through a hollow,
and then up again to the opposite crest. It was as he had thought. He
could see Keok a hundred yards away, standing on the trunk of a fallen
tree, and as he looked, she tossed another bunch of sputtering crackers
away from her. The others were probably circled about her, out of his
sight, watching her performance. He continued cautiously, making his
way so that he could come up behind a thick growth of bush unseen,
within a dozen paces of them. At last he was as near as that to her,
and Keok was still standing on the log with her back toward him.
It puzzled him that he could not see or hear the others. And something
about Keok puzzled him, too. And then his heart gave a sudden throb and
seemed to stop its beating. It was not Keok on the log. And it was not
Nawadlook! He stood up and stepped out from his hiding-place. The
slender figure of the girl on the log turned a little, and he saw the
glint of golden sunshine in her hair. He called out.
“Keok!”
Was he mad? Had the sickness in his head turned his brain?
And then:
“Mary!” he called. “_Mary Standish_!”
She turned. And in that moment Alan Holt’s face was the color of gray
rock. It was the dead he had been thinking of, and it was the dead that
had risen before him now. For it was Mary Standish who stood there on
the old cottonwood log, shooting firecrackers in this evening of his
home-coming.