_Philadelphia, Sept. 16th._--The climate just now is delicious; and
these clean quiet streets, with the trees which shade them, have all the
freshness of spring. Many Southern strangers are here, enjoying the
delightful residence this city affords at this season of the year.
Chestnut-street, if not so crowded, quite as gay as Broadway just now,
being daily filled with pretty women. Theatre crowded.
_24th._--Colonel B----ke and his family arrived _en route_ for
Washington, which they are desirous of visiting previous to their
departure for England. It is a pity they are so late in the season, or
rather so early: the capital is deserted now, and hot as Jamaica; even
our hospitable minister, Sir Charles, has not yet, I fancy, resumed his
good housekeeping.
_25th._--Had the pleasure of driving Mrs. B----ke and Miss M----e to the
works at Mount Pleasant, and thence along the south bank of the
Schuylkill: the day was sunny, yet not over warm; the river and its
beautiful banks were never seen to greater advantage; the foliage, just
touched by the hand of Autumn, was changing fast, not "into the sear and
yellow leaf," but into the most lovely livery in which nature ever
dressed her forests; I had the satisfaction of hearing my favourite
haunt sufficiently lauded by the whole party. Dined with Colonel
B----ke.
_27th._--After a long ride in the morning, accompanied Colonel B----ke
and ladies to dinner at Mrs. W----gs. In the evening, a small party,
with music. A sister of our hostess, Madame P----t, who is an
accomplished musician, sang some duets with Count S---- in excellent
taste; and we had Mrs. W----gs' harp in perfection. She is certainly the
best lady harpist I ever heard; her taste and feeling are both good, her
execution certain and brilliant, and her touch nearly as firm, if not
quite so vigorous, as Bochsa's, whose pupil indeed she is; and infinite
credit does she do her master.
Is it that music is more cultivated as a science in Philadelphia, or
that I have chanced to light upon a more musical circle here than it
has been my fortune to encounter elsewhere? Certain it is, I have not,
in the other great cities, met any women whose musical education appears
so exceedingly good, though a love for the art, I should say, is general
throughout the country.
_28th._--At seven A.M. left Chestnut-street for Baltimore. Whilst
steering through the waters of the Chesapeake, perceived a large steamer
standing right for us, with a signal flying. Learned that this was the
Columbus, bound for Norfolk, Virginia, for which place we had several
passengers, who were now to be transhipped to the approaching vessel.
We were out in the open bay, with half a gale of wind blowing, and some
sea on; it therefore became a matter of interest to observe how two
large ships of this class would approach each other.
The way they managed this ticklish affair was really admirable: before
we neared, I observed the Norfolk ship was laid head to wind, and just
enough way kept on to steer her; our ship held on her course, gradually
lessening her speed, until, as she approached the Columbus, it barely
sufficed to lay and keep her alongside, when they fell together, gangway
to gangway: warps were immediately passed, and made secure at both head
and stern; and in a minute the huge vessels became as one.
Here was no want of help; the luggage and the passengers were ready at
the proper station, so that in a handful of minutes the transfer was
completed without bustle or alarm. Meantime the interest of this novel
scene was greatly increased by the coming up of the inward-bound
Norfolk-man, which flitted close by us amidst the roar occasioned by the
escaping steam of the vessels lying-to, a noise that might have drowned
the voice of Niagara.
As we thus lay together, I noticed that the upper or promenade deck of
the Columbus was completely taken up by a double row of flashy-looking
covered carts, or tilt-waggons, as they are called here. Upon inquiry, I
found that these contained the goods, and were, indeed, the movable
stores, or shops, of that much enduring class, the Yankee pedlars, just
setting forth for their annual winter cruise amongst the plantations of
the South: where, however their keen dealing may be held in awe, they
are looked for with lively anxiety, and their arrival greeted as an
advent of no little moment.
They form a hardy and enterprising class, and ought to be well paid for
the risks and great labour they undergo; being, in fact, the mercantile
pioneers of the continent, every corner of which they penetrate from the
Atlantic to the Pacific, supplying, in their route, the frontiers with
little luxuries that else would never find a way there for years to
come. They thus keep the chain of civilization entire, binding the
remotest settlers to the great Union by their necessities, to which it
administers through these its adventurous agents, whose tempting
"_notions_" constantly create new wants amongst the simple children of
the forest and prairie.
Arranged in a half circle about the bow on the main-deck, I observed the
horses of these royal pedlars: they stretched their necks out to examine
us with a keenness of look worthy their knowing masters' reputation and
their own education.
Our business being completed, the hissing sound of the waste-steam pipe
ceased, this force being once more applied to its right use; the paddles
began to move, the lashings were cast off, and away the boats darted
from each other with startling rapidity; the Columbus, with the gale
aft, rushing down the great bay of the Chesapeake, and the Washington
breasting its force right for Baltimore.
Our captain, I soon perceived, was bent upon overtaking the steamer that
had passed whilst we were busied alongside the Columbus; and so quickly
did he overhaul her, that, although we had not over fourteen miles to
go, he left her astern far enough before entering the harbour to satisfy
his honour, and prove the George Washington the fastest boat. About four
o'clock P.M. we approached the wharf, amidst the usual cries of "coach!"
"want a coach, your honour?" given in accents always welcome to my ears,
for they remind me of home.
I am here tempted to recall a little personal anecdote, which is
illustrative of the character of this class of my countrymen, and proves
that the ready address for which they are so famous at home does not
desert them on this side the water.
During the first visit I paid this city, I had of course made particular
acquaintance with one or two Jarveys; for I lived a long way from my
work, and their attention was serviceable. On my next arrival at the
harbour, it was late: we had encountered a snow storm, and I, being wet
and wretched enough, was anxious to get to the hotel, having to play
that night. I was on the look-out as we touched the wharf, and with
great delight heard a voice most melodiously bawl out,
"O! blur' an' oons, boys, if here isn't Mr. Power!"
The planks were shoved over, and, at the same moment, half a dozen
voices greeted me with the accustomed
"Here's a coach, Mr. Power!"
"Och! sure your honour'll go wid _me_ this turn, for luck!"
"You're welcome, Mr. P----: long life to yez! it's I've the coach'll
whip you up to ould Barnums', snug and dry, in no time."
In the midst of this din, whilst I was yet on the plank, I perceived a
tall raw-boned Tipperary lad, who had evidently decided on appropriating
me, making his way most unceremoniously through the crowd, shouting out
in a tone that drowned all competitors,
"Och! thin', will yez stop yer bawling, and don't bother Mr. Power,
when his _own_ carriage has bin waiting for him here these two hours."
An appeal like this was not to be resisted: I therefore accompanied my
friend to my _own_ carriage; and whatever doubts I might entertain as to
this part of my friend's statement, the fact of its having been in
waiting for "these two hours" I could readily credit; for I found it
half full of snow. I observed upon its condition, saying that, as I was
expected, _my_ carriage might have been better looked after.
"Wasn't I below looking afther ye're honour, and that's the way the snow
got in without my seein' it: indeed, we're not a dale used to snows here
away; but I'll have it out and turn the cushions, and powdher you up to
the hotel in a minute."
All this was said and done in an accent and with a manner that made me
for a moment forget the wharf of Baltimore, and fancy myself at the foot
of Essex bridge, or landing on the pier of Kingston.
Just as I was sitting down to dinner, received a note from Mr. S----r,
offering kindly, that, if I felt so disposed, they would next morning
take out the hounds, and see if a fox could not be found. I accepted
the invitation with pleasure, and dined no worse with the prospect of a
run in the distance.
To the theatre, and early to bed, after giving directions to be called
at half-past five A.M., fox-hunting being an early business here; in
fact, the moment the sun is fairly out, the moisture vanishes from the
ground, and afterwards it becomes hard to find. Slept like a dormouse;
dreamed of dogs, dykes, and red-foxes, until I was awakened by my horse
backing at a Virginia rail-fence, and giving me a nearer prospect of his
ears than was consistent with the true principles of equation--found Sam
shaking me by the shoulder, with warning that it was time to rise.
_29th._--Took a cup of coffee, and mounted the nag Mr. S----r had sent
for my use, with a saddle ample enough for a camel, a double bridle, a
martingale, and all kinds of traps equally perplexing. The martingale,
judging from the pony's make and carriage, I at once took objections to;
but the white-headed negro groom received my directions to take it off
with such evident horror, saying with tears in his eyes, "Dat he not at
all good, no how neber, widout da martin-gal," that out of courtesy I
felt compelled to retain it for the present, but with the mental
resolution to remove it when we got to cover.
I soon discovered that my pony at his ordinary gait was a "fiddler,"
besides exhibiting slight symptoms of musical talent; he was, however,
cobby and well-built, showed much spirit, and had a good spice of
breeding about him; presuming his pluck to be answerable, I did not
despair of being somewhere.
In the suburbs we unkennelled the dogs: the pack consisted of twenty,
all counted; ill-matched as to size and bone, but appearing healthy,
clean, full of spirits, and in good working trim.
The huntsman, an old builder, of sporting character, turned out with his
dogs, mounted on a powerful bay horse nearly thorough-bred, with capital
pins, and real Irish quarters; as is the uniform custom here, I observed
he rode with a martingale, having slips of leather on the reins to
prevent the rings from drawing close to the cheek. How the devil are
they to jump tired nags with these things! says I to myself; but we
shall see!
Our huntsman, albeit his equipment would not have won him credit or
recognition as "a sporting man" at a costermonger's skurry in
Battersea-fields, had the quick eye, bright look, and keen expression
of feature common to all knowing ones in the noble art of _venerie_: he
managed to make his dogs obedient, and kept them well together during a
ride of some six or eight miles, although no two couple were at all
matched in weight or power.
At length we cast off into as likely a looking cover as ever hound was
put through, and in ten minutes after we received good information from
a dependable quarter that Reynard was there or thereabouts; the scent
was, judging by the tongue, not a very warm one, but our huntsman
appeared confident that all was right.
In a few minutes the cry grew more cheery, the lively dogs more anxious;
and whilst poking through the cover, I saw the fox, a grey one, stealing
outward, and tally-ho'd him.
The dogs were wide abroad, but all busy as ants; the leaders confident,
and showing no signs of being at fault; the old man declined to hark
'em-to, preferring that they should find their own way: this, after a
good deal of doubling, they certainly did; an old hound hit the right
scent, by inspiration as it were; and went away to it as straight as a
rifle-ball, and almost as quick; taking out of this cover across a
small meadow that divided it from another, into which the fox struck as
quickly as possible.
It became evident, after a little dodging about, that Reynard had made
up his mind to trust to these neighbour covers for safety; the dogs
could not get him off: we viewed the rascal several times; and at one
time I hoped he had resolved to change his plan and go-away, for he
dashed from the cover-edge and tried his speed with the dogs, leading
them gallantly for a few minutes; but the beast had no real game in his
nature, for he doubled back for another corner of his bush.
Thus he ran and thus we rode from cover to cover, nearly always in the
same line, for full two hours and a half; when the cur being brought
fairly to a stand-still, was caught and killed near to where he was
first tally-ho'd. The only interest afforded by this sort of chase arose
from the extreme tenacity with which the hounds held on to the trail as
they ran their prey through all his doubles in covers closely set with
trees, and having an undergrowth of thick brushwood and bramble, all but
impassable.
I was also much amused by observing the behaviour of two young English
hounds, that had been imported this season only, by Captain Stockton,
from the kennel of Sir Harry Goodricke, and marked H. G. on the
off-side. The slut took to this rough work as keenly as any of the old
hounds, and was well up with the leading dogs throughout; but the dog
would not face the cover; he stuck close to the heels of the last horse
in every skurry, and never evinced the least desire to do credit to his
gallant breeding.
About three o'clock got back to Baltimore, with but a poor opinion of
Transatlantic fox-hunting, if this may be considered a specimen. My
excellent and sport-loving friend, S----r, informs me, however, that the
red fox when found is another affair altogether, possessing great speed,
and having courage to rely upon it.
In search of one of this family, I have promised to ride on Friday, wind
and weather permitting; at present both are more variable than I can
describe, the extreme changes of the temperature, and the suddenness of
these, utterly surpassing all my experience. One day I have a large
fire, and the next, windows and doors open in search of cool air: in the
course of the afternoon a change of twenty degrees is a common
occurrence. The Indian summer has not yet set in, but when the influence
of the equinox is over, we shall have, I hope, a few of those divine
days that made last fall so enjoyable a season.
Since my last visit, a very handsome hotel has been completed adjoining
the Exchange, of which building it forms indeed a part; it is to be
conducted after the manner of the Mansion-house at Philadelphia. This is
the work of two or three public-spirited men, and the benevolence of
their design merits the thanks of the travelling community; for the more
such hotels are multiplied, the better for them.
_30th._--Accompanied by Mr. G----s, went to look over a small collection
of pictures belonging to a Mr. Gilmour. I was struck by a couple of
portraits painted by Lawrence: they were the likenesses of the
proprietor of the house and his wife. The gentleman was done in the best
style of this master; and the lady, an exceedingly lovely woman, was
also an admirable as well as a most attractive portrait; but lacking, I
imagined, that quiet simple grace which makes his female figures so
refined, so inimitable.
Here were several good pictures of both the Italian and Dutch schools,
amongst others a Cuyp, said to be undoubtedly original; but, viewed
through the medium of closely-curtained drawing-rooms, on a dull day, it
was not possible to form a correct judgment as to the true character of
any of the subjects. The whole thing was however in good taste; and
numberless articles of _virtu_ gave evidence of the refinement and love
of art which distinguishes the owner, who, I regretted to learn, was at
this time confined to his bed by severe illness. I had the honour of
being presented to the lady of the house; and, although many years have
passed since she sat to our late President, I at once recognised her for
the original of the charming portrait to which I have alluded.
_October 3rd._--Friday, at seven A.M., left Barnum's to seek for a red
fox in company with my friend S----r, and that fine old man, Mr. Oliver,
now no more. We were joined on the way by three or four other gentlemen,
and on we pushed for the Neck, where the landing took place under Ross,
our ground being the field of battle. The morning was insufferably
sultry; but, as it had rained all the previous day, it was decided by
the knowing ones that the scent would lie well.
I observed that we had on this day a new huntsman, and, upon inquiry for
our former companion, learnt that he was compelled to stay by his
brick-field. His successor, a queer-looking fish, who was hailed as
Colonel A----, afforded me much amusement by the singularity of his
equipment; as we neared our hunting-ground, my attention was yet more
strongly fixed upon the colonel by old Mr. Oliver, who made several
humorous allusions to a former hard run of our huntsman's over the same
line of country; allusions which called forth loud laughter from all
present, including the subject of them, although I observed his
merriment to be accompanied by a whimsical air of embarrassment.
I was quickly put up to the fun by one of our party, who informed me,
that on the day of the fight which took place here, it was the colonel's
fortune to command a battalion of militia fifteen hundred strong; he had
been stationed with his battalion behind a fence, with orders to make it
good as long as possible; but the general commanding on the field
perceiving that the position was turned at some distance by a corps of
the British, sent an _aide_ to the gallant colonel, directing him to
change his front so as to face the advancing enemy, and retire to the
next field, where his flank would be covered.
The colonel, whose military eye now clearly perceived that his position
was the evident aim of the advancing British column, whose quick step
was rapidly shortening the distance between, listened to the message of
his commander with some impatience, replying to the _aide_ with
admirable promptitude.
"Why, look'ee, major, as to changin' front and all that, I calculate
you'd best do it yourself: but I dare say what you tell me about
retiring is all right; I see no possible objections to that; therefore,
I wish you a very good day."
The colonel kept his word: no sooner said than done; _retiring_
instantly in the direction of home, and never halting for breath until
he reached the city, a march of about seven or eight miles, which was
accomplished in a time that proved highly creditable to the wind and
bottom of both himself and such of his corps as stuck to their chief
throughout this rapid movement.
The worthy militia colonel was tried by court-martial, and broke, for
this wise exercise of his judgment; he still, notwithstanding, rejoices
in his military title; and follows the hounds stoutly at a good healthy
old age, which in all human probability would never have arrived had he
waited to change his front with a veteran corps actively deploying on
his flank in open field.
We drew a great extent of cover, but found no fox; indeed, if we had,
the day came on too hot for either dogs or horses to have followed far.
I was sufficiently delighted with my ride; the woods were beautiful, and
from the Neck both the harbour and city show to great advantage.
During this visit to Baltimore, I had changed my scene of action from
the "Front Street" to the "Holiday Theatre;" smaller, but more
comfortable than my first quarters: this city is not so theatrical as
the others I have visited, but no audience can be more agreeable; they
certainly ought to like a play, for when they do come they enjoy it
heartily; and during my present visit the house was unusually well
attended. As a residence I like Baltimore much; its market is equal to
any other in the States, and cheaper than either Philadelphia or New
York.
The great race-meeting, on the central course here, being to take place
on the 21st of this month, I resolved to attend it; and spent my
intervening fortnight between Philadelphia and Princeton, where I passed
a few days at Mr. S----n's, quail-shooting, in company with a
countryman, whose society made the longest day light, and sometimes
indeed did as much for the longest night. On the 18th I again quitted
the hospitable Princeton, and accompanied Captain S----n to Bristol,
_via_ Trenton. In the latter place we found the whole community
rejoicing over the triumph of the democratic or Jackson party, in favour
of which the past election had proved most decisive. At Bristol we took
the steamer for Philadelphia, and next day on to Baltimore for the
races: the weather for the last ten days unexceptionable.
_Tuesday, 21st._--Attended the central course: a pleasant ride of six
miles or so. On this day was made the first attempt at running
three-year old horses with our weight and for our distance, instead of
the four-mile heats usual here; the attempt was a decided failure: an
evident prejudice existed against it amongst the sporting men; only six
horses were entered, and of these four paid forfeit: the race became a
match therefore, and went off tamely. I doubt whether the experiment
will ever succeed here, if even it is repeated.
Nothing can be more meagre than the ordinary accessories of an American
race-course: here is no assemblage of the _beau-monde_, no populace, no
four-in-hand drags, no costermongers, no donkeys, no dukes, no
thimble-rig, no gipsies; in short, "no nothin'," except a few
quiet-looking hacks and a sprinkling of sulkies.
On this day, I observed about a dozen ladies in the comfortless stand:
these were here in order to qualify for the race-ball, the stewards
having given out that no _invites_ would be extended to any ladies who
did not, on one day at least, grace the course with their presence.
_24th._--A better assemblage on the course than I have yet seen: a good
deal of excitement stirring in consequence of "Shark" being entered once
more to run against the pet of the South, "Trifle." The stand presented
quite a goodly show of women: a greater number of pretty ones it would
be difficult to collect in any city of the size.
The race was won by the favourite "Trifle" in two four-mile heats, two
of the horses entered being distanced in the first: the time of the
first heat was seven minutes 28 seconds; and of the second, seven
minutes 27 seconds.
"Shark" again ran under great disadvantages; for, during his journey
from Princeton in New Jersey, he had thrown out a bad curb on his
off-hock, close to the articulation of the joint. Captain S----n was
resolved, however, that there should be no disappointment, and started
him accordingly. He was badly ridden, and ran lame for the first three
miles, but came well in. For the second heat his rider was changed, and
he made a slashing race, coming in close to the little mare. "Shark" is
an Eclipse colt, of remarkable power and beauty, and will yet, I think,
turn out one of the first race-horses of the country.
In the evening, the race-ball took place, and here were congregated most
of the assembly-going beauty of Baltimore; but, I should say, the
cathedral is the place where the greatest portion may be seen. I do not
know whether or not my judgment is correct, but the general style of
dress struck me to be in better taste here than I had elsewhere observed
it; perhaps because it was plainer, a style that suits my fancy better
than any mode having more pretension.
A good supper was one of the provisions not least admirable; a majestic
corned round of beef stood on a side-table; an object of admiration not
often presented to view in the States, but of whose beauty there could
be no two opinions: for myself, I did more than admire; I at once
addressed it ardently, and for its return of tenderness can avouch: I
gratefully remember it, still cherishing the fond recollection.
A compassionate countryman of my own, who saw me drinking iced
champagne, bade me follow him: with that provident attention to trifles,
so characteristic of Ireland on similar occasions, this thoughtful soul
had not "forgotten to remember" that a little whisky-punch might be
acceptable on a cold night before facing the air of morning. The
compound in question had been prepared by an experienced hand, and the
_material_ was great indeed; I was assured that the spirit had been just
fifteen years away from its native city, Cork. Honoured be its parent.
Still! may the turf ever burn bright beneath it, and the New World long
rejoice in its fruitfulness!
"For Oh! there's a spell
In its every drop, 'gainst the ills of mortality.
Talk of the cordial that sparkled for Helen,
Her cup was a fiction, but this a reality."
_Sunday, 26th._--Was called early, having an engagement to pass a
couple of days with Mr. C----l at his country-house: found a gale of
wind blowing, with an accompaniment of heavy rain: countermanded the
vehicle I had ordered, and returned to bed, since a country excursion on
this day was out of the question.
_27th._--Accompanied Mr. S----r to Carrol's Island, having arranged to
visit this celebrated ducking-ground on our way to Mr. Oliver's seat.
We reached the house about eleven o'clock, the distance being sixteen
miles: the cottage, which forms the head-quarters of the club of
gentlemen who farm this sporting-stand, was plain enough for the most
republican spirit. One sitting-room, and a couple of dormitories
containing a camp-bed for each member, with pegs and racks for arms and
implements, formed the whole of the appointments and furniture; but the
sport is first-rate; and the plain simplicity of this _menage_ gives
increased zest to the meeting, and promotes the hardihood essential both
to the successful pursuit of game and to the healthful enjoyment of the
sport.
Before the hour of dinner, we walked down on to the long neck of land
where the shooters patiently abide the flight of the ducks: on one side
is the Seneca, and on the other the Gunpowder river; both favourite
feeding-grounds of all the water-fowl frequenting this region of creeks,
rivers, and bays. About the central line of the neck of land, a dozen or
so of stands are ranged at equal distances, built about four feet high,
each large enough for two gunners; with shelves within for the various
traps needful, a plank floor, and a couple of stools.
Here the men on duty take post; and, chewing the quid of "sweet and
bitter fancies" patiently abide the moment when it may please the
canvass-back to give his bosom to the breeze, and quit one river for the
other. Half a dozen Retrievers, of a mixed breed, lay lounging on the
grass in front of this line of watch-boxes, awaiting the moment when
work should be cut out for their Sagacities. These were admirably
trained to their vocation, as I had an opportunity of judging whilst a
looker-on here. On the occasion of a small flight, a couple of long
shots were made, and a duck winged slightly: it made a good downward
slant, and fell forty yards from the shore into the Seneca: at the same
moment in dashed four dogs after it, helter-skelter: there was a little
sea on, and the object of their search at first unseen by them: a wave
of the hand from the sportsman was the signal by which their line was
regulated, and for this one of the four would occasionally look back.
The wounded bird, on being neared, dived, followed by the foremost dog;
the others staunchly pursuing the line of their under-course, directed
by the air-bubbles rising to the surface: in a little time, up came the
duck ahead of its pursuers, and the dog close upon it; being hard
pressed, down again went the duck, and down went another dog; and for
several times was this repeated, until the chase was nearly a mile from
the beach, when the dogs were recalled from a pursuit which is rarely
successful unless the game has received some bodily wound, or has a limb
broken,--so active and so strong are these birds in the water.
At two o'clock we sat down to a most capital dinner,--a joint of
roast-beef, fine fish, and Canvass-backs, that had been on the wing
within a couple of hours, together with the Red-head, Teal, and two or
three other specimens; all excellent in their way, but not comparable
for delicacy, fat, or flavour with that inimitable work of nature the
right Canvass-back duck of these waters, where the wild celery on which
they love to feed abounds, and to which they owe the delicate aromatic
flavour so prized by the _gourmand_.
At five o'clock P.M., after witnessing some sport, S----r gave the word
to mount, and off we set for Mr. Oliver's. An hour's ride brought us
within his domain, where lofty deer-fences, blackthorn hedge-rows,
well-made drives, and carefully cultivated land, formed a striking
change from the wild but beautiful forest-country through which we had
ridden.
We first came upon the farm-yard and offices of the estate, all
well-arranged and in good order: here we left our horses, and walked on
to the house,--a plain sporting-lodge, without any outward appearance or
pretension. It is well situated upon a gentle eminence overlooking a
couple of fine reaches of the Gunpowder river; on the land side the
deer-park spreads away to the forest, being divided from the lawn by an
invisible fence.
Himself an ardent lover of the sports of the field, Mr. Oliver, for a
time, took infinite pains to cultivate a legitimate taste for it; but, I
believe, without much success, although he pursued his plans on a scale
and at a cost not often imitated in this country. Indeed, to say truth,
men of fortune have little encouragement here to be liberal in this way;
since, when a gentleman has surrounded himself with all the appliances
to sporting, it is next to impossible to bring them fairly into play;
or, however social his own spirit may be, yet harder to find persons
possessing the time and taste for their enjoyment.
The worthy old sportsman gave me a grievous list of difficulties which
he had encountered from a desire to promote on this fine estate the
breed of certain animals and birds. Keepers were provided from Europe
with first-rate characters; but they found all their ancient habits were
to be unlearned here, and were soon completely at fault.
The foxes killed his pheasants; the neighbouring farmers, or boatmen
from the rivers, had decoyed his dogs and shot down his deer; and, after
a hopeless struggle, he had given up his hounds: the deer alone he
managed to domesticate and increase, his stock at present amounting to
four hundred head.
No spot could have been better chosen for an experiment of this kind, as
the whole estate lies within a natural ring-fence, bounded by deep
waters on two sides, and cut off from all neighbours on the other by a
belt of close forest. Under other laws, time would be afforded for the
regular improvement of this domain, and the plans of the founder might
be carried out by his successors; but, as it is, the present worthy
possessor once laid beneath the turf, the object of all his pains-taking
and labour will, in all probability, be cut up into small farms, or be
allowed once more to degenerate into forest, as may appear most
profitable to his heirs.
This plan may be decidedly the most advantageous for the community at
large, and I have no doubt is, since it works well here; but it has a
chilly and depressing effect on the mind when viewed by one who would
desire--and who does not?--to live in the creations which owe their
existence to his labour or his taste, and who would revisit in the
spirit the pleasant place enjoyed by his children, for whose dear sakes
it was first projected.
After supper our spirited old host gave the hour of muster for five
o'clock A.M., and we severally sought our beds in order to make the most
of the brief time left for sleep. Much as I love a fox-hunt, I freely
confess that this early rising did seem a mighty hard bargain.
_28th._--Not choosing to be laggard, as the thing was to be done, I was
first afoot for the honour of Britain;--the whole party, indeed, were
exceedingly punctual;--and after a hearty breakfast, away we rode for
cover, with a slight crisping of frost under hoof, and a warm-looking
sky just opening over head, heralding a sun that gave promise of making
woodland and meadow smoke again within the next hour or two; at present,
however, the air was nippingly shrewd, to say the least of it, and set
me to blowing my fingers like a trumpeter. At the end of about an hour's
ride the dogs were laid on, and almost immediately hit off the scent,
and went away merrily through the wood at a slashing rate. The rider is
here kept wide awake by the vicinity of the trees, many of which are
spreading and low-branched, requiring a quick eye and some suppleness to
keep one's hat from getting hurt when going "the pace," and, by St.
Hubert! these hounds in woodland appear anything but slow.
Many dark dells and lovely open glades did we thus hurrah by, and
across, with barely a glimpse in passing. In one place the path was
completely blocked up by two forest-trees, apparently but recently
rooted up; they had been rent from the earth, and flung here from
opposite sides, as though a mere stack of rushes, in the pride of their
vigour and in the full bloom of their beauty; and here they lay to
wither boll, and branch, and leaf.
A whirlwind had evidently descended on this very spot probably within a
few days; I say descended, for the whole circumference of the circle
devastated did not exceed twenty yards at most. One other tree, yet
fixed in the soil, presented an awful example of the might of the
tornado. It was a chestnut of the largest size, the trunk near the base
being seven or eight feet in circumference; it reclined at what seemed
to have been the very focus of the whirlwind; its roots yet clung to
earth; but, through the resistance thus offered, the tree had been
literally twisted round and round, until it was split into laths, the
trunk having the appearance of a great bundle of saplings peeled and
twined together by the hand of a Titan, as lads twist withy-wands; the
sturdy limbs and spreading branches, although little broken, were wound
about and knotted together in a way so curiously complicated as hardly
to be made comprehensible without the aid and evidence of sight.
Attracted by this singular forest wreck, I took to moralizing like the
melancholy Jaques, though in a strain not quite so well worthy of
record; and, losing sight of my company, was for some time thrown out.
When I caught the dogs up, it was found Reynard was fairly gone to earth
in an inaccessible ravine; so we even left him of necessity to his
repose, which had been tolerably well earned by a rattling burst of full
six miles on end.
In half an hour after we found again, when we got a second run, which,
with a couple of short checks, held us in sport for an hour and a half,
with a similar result.
By this time the day was growing smoking hot, whilst the dogs and horses
were anything but fresh; so it was agreed to collect our, by this time,
scattered forces, and turn the rein once again for the Lodge. To the
sound of "merrie horn and loud halloo" we took our way through the
pathless forest, picking up now a strayed hound and now a man astray,
until, by the time home was reached, all our company was well accounted
for; and so ends my last fox-chase in America.
Let me here insert that my hospitable host never followed hound again:
he on this day, I remember, regretted to me that a pain in his chest,
with a growing difficulty of respiration, prevented his riding as he had
once done; within a few weeks after he died, leaving a gap in the
hospitality of Baltimore that will be felt by hundreds. Mr. Oliver was
one of a class of excellent open-house men, of which class there are
specimens to be found in every part of this Union, men whose frank
hospitality is of itself sufficient to keep up the reputation of the
country amongst strangers: many of these yet live, and I trust will long
live, to the lasting honour of the States.
By birth, the subject of this notice was an Irishman; but his
affections, his sympathies, his prejudices, were all on the side of his
adopted country, which in his eyes had no equal in the world. It was
amusing to hear him speak of his visits to Europe: to England only did
he cede the right even of comparison; and on the subject of our wines he
was quite a sceptic, although he had dined at the best tables, and spoke
most warmly of his entertainers. He protested against the wines of
England being at all comparable to those of America; nay, I remember he
was heretic enough to deny us the supremacy of a rump-steak, and raised
his voice against the majesty of Dolly's.
I would not have so much heeded his advancing this heterodox doctrine
before Americans, had he not at the same time come well prepared to
prove himself qualified to give judgment by producing, hot-and-hot, a
steak that even I was compelled to admit might have been entered as A.1.
at Lloyd's.
They possess in the States generally as good beef as need be desired;
but, strange to say, with this exception, I have rarely met a tolerable
steak, according to our idea of the matter; the secret of which is, the
meat is not kept, is full of blood and fibre, and, although excellent of
flavour, is not easily disposed of by those who reject the bolting
principle, and desire to adhere to the more toilsome plan of
mastication.
_29th._--Quitted the pleasant banks of the Gunpowder, and, with my old
sporting companion, returned to Baltimore. Same day, embarked on board
steam-boat for an excursion as far as Petersburg, Virginia, _via_
Norfolk; we had a fine day and night whilst steering through this great
bay of the Chesapeake: went to bed late in consequence.
_30th._--Coming out of the cabin this morning at an early hour, found we
were off the old fort, Point Comfort. Fort Calhoun, a work on which
enormous outlay has been made, is not yet completed: the great
difficulty appears to be the unstable nature of the bank on which the
works are placed: upon the elevation of the _terre-plain_ alone, nearly
four thousand cubic yards of sand have been employed; all of which is
shipped from the main, and deposited within the fort. It is computed
that, by the time this place is fitted to receive a garrison, one
hundred thousand tons of stone will have been expended on the works and
breakwater which are required as an exterior support to the pressure
from within.
The completion of this truly great military work must, in a great
measure, depend upon the decrease of the subsidence to which the soil is
liable, and for which it is necessary to pause after every year's
addition of pressure, in order to proportion such a resistance as may
restore the equilibrium and secure the foundation. When I was here, one
of these pauses in the engineering department had place; but it was
said, the President had intimated his design of passing the hot season
upon this spot, when the works would be vigorously resumed under his
inspection.
Sailing up the Elizabeth river, so famous in the gallant Raleigh's
story, we reached Norfolk at eight o'clock A.M., when a portion of our
living freight was quickly transferred to the Virginia steamer for
Charleston; another portion, to which I was attached, being, with
similar promptitude, handed over to the Pocahontas ditto, bound for
Richmond, the capital of Virginia. In less than an hour we were sailing
back through the well-closed harbour of Norfolk; whence, crossing the
Elizabeth river, we entered, in a couple of hours, the noble stream now
rightly called, after its legitimate sovereign, the Powhatan, but better
known as the James's river,--"a great sinking in the poetry of the
thing," though Jamie also was a king, "but no more like his brother,"
&c.
Upon the southern banks rise a constant series of fine bold bluffs,
mostly crowned with forest trees of great beauty, now dressed in that
rich-coloured foliage so often lauded by poet and painter, but as yet,
I fancy, never done full justice to. Scott and Turner, those inspired
illustrators of nature, might have done this: as it is, I hope America
will, before many years are past, find, amongst her own sons, pens and
pencils worthy to give her beauties to the admiration of the Old World.
We arrived off the original city founded in the "Old Dominion," having
some passengers to land upon the beach, now almost as wild as when first
trodden by the adventurous foot of the bold Captain Smith. Within a few
yards of the landing-place stood the first Christian church erected on
this mighty continent: I grieve to add, this interesting altar to the
true God no longer bears his holy word: a dilapidated, but
sturdy-looking square tower of brick, alone remains to mark the site of
church and city; indeed, without timely care is bestowed by some gentle,
generous spirit, even this most interesting memorial will speedily
disappear. At present this forms one of the very few objects to which
the term picturesque may properly be applied, existing in the States;
and, linked as it is with the recollections of its gallant founders, I
confess it laid strong hold of my imagination, absorbing my eyes and
interest as long as I could keep it in view.
The low, unhealthy site of this city proved, after a prolonged struggle,
the cause, I believe, of its total desertion. Elizabeth Town, its near
neighbour and once rival, is, I have been informed, fast verging to a
similar condition.
Scattered along the banks on both sides of the river, are several
mansions raised in the old times by the wealthy planters of the "Old
Dominion," the remembrance of whose liberal expenditure and open
hospitality still does honour to their state. These houses have a strong
resemblance to the English squirearchical dwellings of the last century,
being generally large square brick buildings, commonly flanked by low
disproportioned wings; they have all hospitable-looking entrances, and
flights of steps made with reference to the number and free access of
the visitors rather than in keeping with the size of the house; their
steep, many-chimneyed roofs are usually surrounded by a showy
balustrade, and their appearance imposing and respectable, bespeaking
affluence and good housekeeping.
One or two of these mansions stood upon fine open lawns of some extent,
which swept down until their grass mingled with the waters of the
gently-flowing river, offering a slope of great natural beauty, studded
with clumps of goodly trees; the whole, however, having that most
melancholy air of neglect that seemed to say their best days were "the
days that are gone."
Under the existing law of the States those days may not be expected ever
to return; and such places as are here alluded to cannot be kept up in
families whose possessions, however ample originally, must be parcelled
out at the demise of each inheritor, until, like poor Sir Lucius, the
"mansion-house and the dirty acres" having slipped through the not
over-tenacious fingers of the Virginian proprietor, the family honour
and the family pictures will alone be left.
In reverting again to the subject of this law, which I confess I have
only viewed under its most melancholy aspect, I must add that it is by
no means unpopular here, being, in fact, perfectly accordant with both
reason and justice, and probably, as far as the commonwealth is
concerned, for the best; yet cannot I look without regret on this
oblivion of the once gentle of the land, and the scattering of the
children of those brave men whose blood and labour redeemed the
wilderness, or won it from the savage and his prey.
Quitted the Pocahontas at City-point; wherefore so called I know not,
since here is neither city nor point that I could discover, but only a
few buildings, and a fine natural wharf at which two noble ships were
lying taking in tobacco and cotton.
Whilst waiting at the landing-place amidst the bustle incident to
shifting baggage, landing passengers, and packing carriages, I witnessed
a wedding assemblage that amused me highly, and was no bad sample of
slavery in the Old Dominion.
From a large hut close to where we were set ashore poured forth a bevy
of beauty of all colours, from the deepest jet up to the quadroon just
tinged with amber. They were for the most part dressed in white, many
having expensive scarfs of gay colours, and all wearing wreaths and
bouquets of the most beautiful flowers, tastefully arranged and put on.
I had only time to learn that it was a wedding-party, and to "guess" at
the bride. I hit upon a plump, roguish-looking little devil, having a
skin like new copper, teeth of pearl, and eyes black as "Kilkenny's own
coal." She was, I observed, the centre of the many-tinted circle, and
wore, moreover, a wreath composed of the pearl-like wax-berry in her
jetty hair.
These, as I was informed, were all slaves; certainly a merrier-looking
party I never saw of white folk, and, for this occasion, their chain was
literally hidden under wreaths of roses; for a day, at least, they were
very happy, and who amongst the freest can count on what the morrow may
bring forth!
This was the first glance I had been allowed of the Virginian
agricultural slave, and I was not ill pleased to be presented with the
bright side of a condition which, to the mind of the philanthropist of
every land, is sufficiently painful without the exaggerations of the
political quack, or the fanatic outcry of the sectarian bigot seeking to
preach a crusade of extermination against men whose slaves form their
only inheritance, himself meantime, for the most selfish ends, daily
planning how best to enslave the mental part of those whose credulity
and weakness expose them for a prey.
There are few proprietors, at this day, more to be pitied than the
large planters of Virginia and the Carolinas; as high-spirited, generous
a race as may anywhere be encountered, but much weighed down of late by
the pressure of circumstances which they cannot control, and which every
year threatens to render more heavy, unless, through some miraculous
interposition, the growing causes be removed or checked. The very slave
property, for the inherited possession of which they are abused, is
becoming in many cases a burthen. Their more southern rivals can grow
cheaper, and, having a fresher soil, produce larger crops and outsell
them in the market; whilst, with a slave population, they have no chance
of ever becoming manufacturers.
From City-point, a well-horsed coach took us fourteen miles, under two
hours, to the busy little city of St. Petersburg; where, over a cup of
tea, and a good Virginy coal fire, I reviewed this journey of a couple
of days, which had afforded me many subjects for admiration and
reflection. I smoked my cigar, and, at an early hour, retired to my bed,
of which I had a choice, there being three in the room, although, at
this time, exclusively appropriated to me. I soon was fast asleep,
dreaming confusedly of Captain Smith, Pocahontas, Lord Cornwallis, Queen
Elizabeth, Powhatan, Sir Walter Raleigh, and Sir George Cockburn.