The appearance of Newport is much less imposing, as approached by land,
than when viewed from the noble harbour over which it looks. It consists
of one long line of close-built, narrow streets running parallel with
the water about the base of the steep hill, with many others climbing up
its side. It is indifferently paved, and has a very light soil; so that
upon the least land-breeze the lower town is filled with the dust, which
is blown about in clouds.
Before the revolution, Newport was a city of comparative importance, and
indeed, whilst the importation of slaves continued a part of the trade
of the country, held its own with the most thriving cities of the east
coast, through the great advantage it derived from its easy harbour,
but with the abolition of that traffic came the downfall of its
prosperity; for having no back country by the exportation of whose
produce it might sustain itself, it was speedily deserted by the
mercantile community, and its carrying trade usurped by Providence,
although the latter is situated some thirty miles higher up the river. A
railroad from Boston through the wealthy manufacturing districts might
nevertheless, I should imagine, bestow upon this place the supremacy
which the difficulty of land-carriage alone has withheld from it.
Its great natural advantage to visitors is the charming climate with
which it is favoured, owing to its being on all sides surrounded by deep
water: this is a point that cannot be changed by a decree in Congress,
or removed by order of the Board of Trade, and likely to be of more use
to the place, if made the most of, than the dockyard and depot which
they seek to establish.
If the English plan was adopted, and small snug cottages built and
furnished for the use of families resorting here, these families would
naturally quit the arks in which they are now congregated, and live each
after the manner of its kind, as all wise animals do; in which case, I
cannot anywhere imagine a more charming abode, or one possessing
superior advantages.
The general aspect of the neighbourhood puts me in mind of the Lothians;
whilst some of the rides amongst the shady lanes, through whose high,
loose hedgerows glimpses were constantly occurring of the sea and rocky
shore, were not unworthy a comparison with portions of that Eden of our
western coast, the Isle of Wight.
The harbour of Newport is of vast extent, easy of entrance, and
perfectly secure from all the winds that blow: its advantages in the
event of a naval war must ultimately render it the chief general depot
of these States. The government appears quite sensible of the policy of
rendering this noble station perfectly secure in good season: a series
of defences, of first-rate importance, are in a course of erection
which, when completed, it is supposed will render the harbour
impregnable to any attempt from the sea. To Fort Adams, the rough-work
of which is completed, I paid more than one visit; and nothing can be
more substantially put together.
The necessity of a dockyard of the first order being established at this
point appears to have been long and warmly pressed upon the
administration by all naval men who have considered the subject: want of
money, the great stumbling-block of a cheap government, has hitherto
prevented the plan being carried into execution; but it is imagined that
this will not be delayed much longer, after the defences are completed.
Since the decease of the gallant Perry, this has ceased to be a naval
station; during the last years of his life he held a command here, which
was almost nominal.
I visited the place where Perry lies buried beneath a simple obelisk of
granite: few heroes appear to have lived so universally loved as was the
Conqueror of the Lakes. His short but brilliant career, added to his
youth and remarkable personal beauty, made him the idol of the people;
whilst his generous disposition and winning manners rendered him the
delight of his friends. I never heard the name of this officer mentioned
without eulogium, mingled with regret for his premature death.
My condition here is enviable enough: I have a pleasant room, with a
fig-tree growing before my window, beneath which Captain B----n and
myself breakfast daily, well shaded from sun and dust; not a musquito
disputes possession with us; and the dinner-table at the "Pottery" is
well served enough, and graced by several very handsome women.
Here is another large hotel near to us, which, from its high bare walls
and numerous windows, we have named the "Factory;" and a sort of rivalry
may be said to exist between the "Pottery girls" and those of this
"Factory." The amusements consist of scandal, bathing, riding, with an
occasional boating party, but the men are not enterprising, otherwise
the facilities for little pic-nics and country excursions abound. The
ladies, who have monopolized all the spirit here, contrive frequently to
get up little hops at one house or other, and these are conducted with
much gaiety and good humour; albeit, parties hold each other at a wary
distance, and, although living in common beneath the same roof, have
classifications made upon principles which have hitherto eluded my
penetration, and are too numerous to be easily defined by the most
accomplished master of the ceremonies Margate ever boasted. The laws of
our exclusives, however incomprehensible, are, as elsewhere, arbitrary;
and the votary of fashion must be content blindfold to follow the
despotic goddess, or quit her ranks.
Whilst here, I had observed for some time an advertisement setting forth
that on a certain day a steam-boat would make an excursion to Block
Island. This I resolved to join: first, because any change was desirable
which might kill a day; and next, because I knew the place had been a
sort of station whereat our squadron managed to hang on during the war,
although singularly wild and harbourless.