This rocky peninsula is truly a very wild and unworldlike little
territory, jutting boldly out as it does into the mighty bay of
Massachusetts, and commanding a view of its whole extent, from Cape Cod
to Cape Anne, together with the many islands, towns, and villages
scattered along the coast; whilst in front spreads out the Atlantic
Ocean.
To sit within the upper gallery of this house upon the cliff, and watch
the rising moon fling her golden bridge from the far horizon's edge,
until it seems to rest upon the beach below, is a sight which would be
worth something in a poet or a painter's eyes.
I never, either in the East or in the Mediterranean, beheld anything
exceed in colour the glory of these evening skies, or their depth by
night. Round about, near to the edge of the cliffs, are scattered a
number of dwellings, built in the style of the southern cottage, having
low projecting eaves covering a broad gallery which usually encircles
the building: these are objects upon which the eye is pleased to rest
when the moon deepens their shadows on the barren rock.
One or two of the highest and most conspicuous points, whether viewed
from the land or the sea, have been very properly selected for
buildings, whose uses, however humble, admitted of classic form. Beneath
the roof of a temple to Minerva, built upon the extreme eastern point of
the lofty headland, may be found the billiard-table of the hotel; lower
down, the little edifice containing a range of baths is entered by a
Doric portico. The proportions of these buildings are in good taste; the
chaste cold moon clothes them in grace and beauty; and for the material,
what matters it, when, by her light, painted pine may be fancied Parian
marble! The cliff itself is a very Leucadia, and as well fitted for a
leap as love-sick heart could seek: but there are no Sapphos now-a-days;
the head of Nahant is likely to remain un-be-rhymed.
A little way to the northward lies a small steep island, between which
and the main land the "sarpint" _par excellence_ has been seen more than
once rushing along at the rate of a steamboat, with a horned face
uplifted some fifty feet above the waves, and a beard blowing about his
ears like the tail of a comet.
This account I had from more than one credulous witness: certain it is,
if Sarpint be fond of fish, he is no bad judge in selecting this as a
residence; for about this same island there are abundance and variety,
both to be met with at all hours, as I can testify, having sat in a
punt, bearing a wary eye for hours at a stretch, and catching all sorts
of things except a sight of the "sarpint."
The nights here are indeed delicious, calm and cool, with air as soft as
velvet; during the day, for about two hours after meridian, owing to the
absence of all shade without, one is compelled, although the sea-breeze
does its best, to keep the house, or else get outside the bay of Boston,
away from the land: this I was afforded frequent opportunities of
doing, in a very pretty schooner-yacht called the Sylph, which Mr.
F----s had down here. She was about eighty tons burthen, capitally
appointed, and with rare qualities as a sea-boat; in her I had the
happiness to pass many days, when the poor people on shore were pitiably
grilled, cruising for codfish, and dishing them up into a sort of soup
called chowder; this formed, in fact, the one great object of my present
life, and I availed myself of every occasion to pursue it.
One of my pleasantest cruises was made with Captain H----d, in an armed
schooner called the Hamilton, attached to the United States' revenue
service. We ran down the coast as far as Portsmouth, and on our return
passed a night within the snugly enclosed harbour of Marblehead; into
which a couple of our cruisers chased an American frigate during the
last war, and threatened to fetch her out again, but thought better of
it, after putting the natives to a great deal of inconvenience through
their anxiety to provide a suitable welcome for the strangers.
Here we landed, and looked about the place: the air was somewhat fishy,
but, judging by the ruddy complexions of the people, must be
exceedingly salubrious. It is not unlike some of the French
fishing-towns on the coast of Normandy, and has an old look that pleased
me much. The place is said to have been originally settled by a colony
of fishers from Guernsey, whose descendants are found still to retain
many of the customs of the islands, and some words of the _patois_ in
use there.
The population is famous for industry, and for the summary mode with
which they dispense justice amongst themselves on points of local polity
affecting the general weal. One instance was fresh enough in memory to
be talked of still. A townsman, returning from the Banks with a cargo,
passed a vessel in a sinking state, turning a blind eye to their
repeated anxious signals. Contrary to all expectation, the crippled
bark, after being given up as lost, reached the harbour, and the conduct
of the hard-hearted skipper was made public. He was seized _instanter_,
triced up, served out with a dozen or two well told, covered with tar,
clothed in feathers, and in this plight was carted about the boundaries
of the township, having a label hung about his neck that described his
crime and sentence in good set rhymes, which ran as follows:
"This here's old John Hort,
That for his hard heart
Is tar-ed and feather-ed,
And carry-ed in this cart."
This occurs to me as being the best practicable illustration of
"poetical justice" I ever heard of, and an example not likely to be lost
upon a maritime people.
It was about dusk when we landed; and I was at first greatly surprised
by the numbers of pretty and neatly-dressed women we encountered
strolling about, or chatting together in groups, wholly unattended by
the other sex. I was quickly reminded, however, that at this season of
the year the husbands, lovers, and sons of the community are mostly
absent in their vessels fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, and not
returnable under ten or twelve weeks.
I cannot help observing that it does infinite credit to the moderation
of these _citoyennes_ that they forbear from taking the sovereign rule
into their own hands at these times, since assuredly they possess the
power of numbers to enforce submission, were the resident housekeepers
hardy enough to offer resistance.
Early on the morning of next day the Hamilton was once more under weigh;
we beat along the coast for some distance, then got before the wind,
and, after peeping into the harbours of Salem and Gloucester, bore up
for Nahant: when yet distant some five miles from our destined port, the
wind fell at once start-calm, without much promise of a breeze till
evening; a light gig, however, and four stout hands, soon set us on
shore within the shadow of the temple of Minerva, and concluded a very
pleasant cruise.
A steam-boat daily plies between this place and Boston: many persons
come down here for an hour or two, and return on the same evening; a
game of nine-pins and a dinner of fine fish, with advantages of fresh
air and a temperature comparatively cool, being the inducements.
The resident families are not numerous, but appear to mix sociably; and,
what with a drive or ride upon the fine beach between this and Lynn, a
sail in the harbour, or a ramble amongst the rude crags by which the
place is environed, find means diversified enough of killing the enemy.
For my part, I am pleased with the place; and were it not that my
incarnate foes have chosen, contrary to established custom, to make an
inroad here, my satisfaction would be complete. But, as it is, they have
at length once more prevailed over my patience: with my eyes nearly
swollen up and my hands miserably blistered, I find further resistance
too painful, therefore have decided upon flight after a fortnight's
residence.
One of the preparations for my comfort, at the dinner-table of Mr.
P----s, with whose amiable family I have latterly dined, was a cup of
rose-water and _eau de Cologne_, with patches of the rice paper of
China, wherewith to allay the intolerable itching that attends the
puncture of these winged leeches, whose voracity is incredible. I have
at times caught a villain in the act, and watched with patience until
from one of the veins of the hand he had drunk blood enough to blow out
his little carcase to the shape of a tennis-ball, when he would poise
himself upon his long legs, and, spreading his wings, make an effort to
rise, but in vain; bloated and unwieldy, his wings refused to sustain
him; his usual activity was gone, and there he stood disgustingly
helpless, incapacitated by sheer gluttony.
In the first week of August I bade adieu to the rocks of Nahant, and for
the last time drove over the beach to Lynn. Not having received any
letters during my residence on the little peninsula--which, it appears,
is out of the circuit of the post-office department--I called at the
establishment of Lynn to make inquiry whether or no any letters had been
forwarded here: the young man in attendance "guessed" that there had
been one or two, maybe; but if there was, the stage-driver had had them.
Now there being a feud between the said driver and the hotel I lodged
in, my ever getting my letters appears a doubtful matter: however, "I
guess" I'll try.