LIVING IN EUROPE AND GOING TO IT

Every year a great deal of discussion of the best mode of spending

the summer, and the course of the people who go to Europe, instead

of submitting to the discomfort and extortion of American hotels, is

for the most part greatly commended. The story told about the hotels

and lodging-houses is the same every year. The food is bad, the

rooms uncomfortable, and the charges high. The fashion, except

perhaps at Newport and Beverly, near Boston, Bar Harbor, and one or

two other highly favored localities, grows stronger and stronger, to

live in the city in the winter and spend the three hot months in

France or England or Switzerland. Moreover, the accounts which come

from Europe of the increase in the number of American colonists now

to be found in every attractive town of the Continent are not

exactly alarming, but they are sufficient to set people thinking.

The number of those who pass long years in Europe, educate their

children there, and retain little connection with America beyond

drawing their dividends, grows steadily, and as a general rule they

are persons whose minds or manners or influence makes their

prolonged absence a sensible loss to our civilization. Moreover,

when they come back, they find it difficult to stay, and staying is

not made easy for them. People here are a little suspicious of them,

and are apt to fancy that they have got out of sympathy with

American institutions, and have grown too critical for the rough

processes by which the work of life in America has in a large degree

to be done. They themselves, on the other hand, besides being soured

by the coldness of their reception, are apt to be disgusted by the

want of finish of all their surroundings, by the difficulty with

which the commoner and coarser needs are met in this country, and by

the reluctance with which allowance is made by legislation and

opinion for the gratification of unusual or unpopular tastes.

The result is a breach, which is already wide, and tends to widen,

between the class which is hard at work making its fortune and the

class which has either made its fortune or has got all it desires,

which is the same thing as a fortune. There is a great deal of work

which this latter would like to do. There is a great deal of the

work of legislation and administration and education for which it is

eminently fitted, but in which, nevertheless, it has little or no

chance of sharing, owing to the loss of the art of winning the

confidence of others, and working with others, which is more easily

learned in America than elsewhere, and which is readily lost by

prolonged residence in any European country, and the absence of

which here makes all other gifts for practical purposes almost

worthless. So that it must be said that the amount of intellectual

and aesthetic culture which an American acquires in Europe is

somewhat dearly purchased. When he gets home, he is apt to find it a

useless possession, as far as the world without is concerned, unless

he is lucky enough, as sometimes but not often happens, to drop into

some absorbing occupation or to lose his fortune. Failing this, he

begins that melancholy process of vibration between the two

continents in which an increasingly large number of persons pass a

great part of their lives, their hearts and affections being wholly

in neither.

The remedy for the mania for _living_ abroad is an elaborate one,

and one needing more time for its creation. No country retains the

hearty affection of its educated class which does not feed its

imagination. The more we cultivate men, the higher their ideals grow

in all directions, political and social, and they like best the

places in which these ideals are most satisfied. The long and varied

history of older countries offers their citizens a series of

pictures which stimulate patriotism in the highest degree; and it

will generally be found that the patriotism and love of home of the

cultivated class is in the ratio of the supply of this kind of food.

They are languid among the Russians, and among the Germans prior to

the late war, as compared to the English and French. In default of a

long history, however, historic incidents are apt to lose their

power on the imagination through over-use. The jocose view of

Washington and of the Pilgrim Fathers, of Bunker Hill and of the

Fourth of July, already gains ground rapidly among us, through too

great familiarity. When Professor Tyndall, in one of his lectures

here, made an allusion which he meant to be solemn and impressive,

to Plymouth Rock, its triteness drew a titter from the audience

which for a moment confounded him.

Unluckily, history cannot be made to order. It is the product of

ages. The proper substitute for it, as well as for the spectacular

effects of monarchy, in new democratic societies, is perfection.

There is no way in which we can here kindle the imaginations of the

large body of men and women to whom we are every year giving an

increasingly high education so well as by finish in the things we

undertake to do. Nothing does so much to produce despondency about

the republic, or alienation from republican institutions, among the

young of the present day, as the condition of the civil service, the

poor working of the post-office and the treasury or the courts, or

the helplessness of legislators in dealing with the ordinary every-

day problems. The largeness of the country, and the rapidity of its

growth, and the comparatively low condition of foreign nations in

respect to freedom, which roused people in Fourth-of-July orations

forty years ago, have, like the historical reminiscences, lost their

magic, and the material prosperity is now associated in people's

minds with so much moral corruption that the mention of it produces

in some of the best of us a feeling not far removed from nausea.

Nothing will do so much now to rouse the old enthusiasm as the

spectacle of the pure working of our administrative machinery,

of able and independent judges, a learned and upright bar, a

respectable and purified custom-house, an enlightened and efficient

treasury, and a painstaking post-office. The colleges of the country

and the railroads, and indeed everything that depends on private

enterprise, are rapidly becoming objects of pride; but a good deal

needs to be done by the government to prevent its being a source of

shame.

Mrs. Stevenson, a Philadelphia lady; the president of the Civic Club

in that city, delivered an address to the club some weeks ago on its

work of reform, in which we find the following passage:

"There seems to exist a mysterious, unwritten law governing the

social organism which causes a natural and wholesome reaction to

take place whenever tendencies, perhaps inherent in certain classes,

threaten to become general, and thereby dangerous to the community.

A few years ago, for instance, with the increasing facilities for

foreign travel, and the corresponding increase of international

intercourse, Anglomania had become so much in vogue as to form an

incipient danger to the true democratic American spirit that

constitutes the real strength of our nation. It was fast becoming a

national habit to extol everything European--from monarchy and its

aristocratic institutions down to the humblest article of dress or

of household use--to the detriment of everything American; and from

the upper 'four hundred' this habit was fast extending to the upper

forty thousand. But just as our wealthy classes were beginning to

make themselves positively ridiculous abroad, and almost intolerable

at home, a reaction set in, and upon all sides there sprang up

patriotic associations of a social order--'Sons and Daughters of the

Revolution,' 'Colonial Dames,' etc.--which revived proper American

self-respect among our people by teaching us to rest our pride, if

pride we _must_ have, where it legitimately should rest--upon good

service rendered to our own country."

This seems to be a shaft aimed at the practice of "going to Europe,"

for the decline of "the true American spirit" and the growth of

Anglomania are ascribed to the "increasing facilities for foreign

travel" and "the corresponding increase of international

intercourse." If the charge be true, it is one of the most

afflicting over made, because it shows that "the true democratic

American spirit" suffers from what the world has hitherto considered

one of the greatest triumphs of modern science, and one of the

greatest blessings conferred on the race--the enormous improvement

in oceanic steam navigation; that, in fact, American patriotism is

very much like the Catholic faith in the Middle Ages--something

naturally hostile to progress in the arts.

If, too, the practice of going to Europe be dangerous to American

faith and morals, the number of those who go makes it of immense

importance. There is probably no American who has risen above very

narrow circumstances who does not go to Europe at least once in his

life. There is hardly a village in the country in which the man who

has succeeded in trade or commerce does not announce his success to

his neighbors by a trip to Europe for himself and his family. There

is hardly a professor, or teacher, or clergyman, or artist, or

author who does not save out of a salary, however small, in order to

make the voyage. Tired professional or business men make it

constantly, under the pretence that it is the only way they can get

"a real holiday." Journalists make it as the only way of getting out

of their heads such disgusting topics as Croker and Gilroy, and Hill

and Murphy. Rich people make it every year, or oftener, through mere

restlessness. We are now leaving out of account, of course,

immigrants born in the Old World, who go back to see their friends.

We are talking of native Americans. Of course, all native Americans

cannot go, because, even when they can afford it, they cannot always

get the time. But we venture on the proposition that there is hardly

any American "in this broad land," as members of Congress say, who,

having both time and money, has not gone to Europe, or does not mean

to go some day or other. So that, if Mrs. Stevenson's account of the

moral effects of the voyage were true, it would show that the very

best portion of our population, the most moral, the most religious,

and the most educated were constantly exposing themselves by tens of

thousands to most debasing influences.

But is it true? We think not. Americans who go to Europe with some

knowledge of history, of the fine arts, and of literature, all

recognize the fact that they could not have completed their

education without going. To such people travel in Europe is one of

the purest and most elevating of pleasures, for Europe contains the

experience of mankind in nearly every field of human endeavor.

They often, it is true, come back discontented with America, but

out of this discontent have grown some of our most valuable

improvements--libraries, museums, art-galleries, colleges. What they

have seen in Europe has opened their eyes to the possibilities and

shortcomings of their own country.

To take a familiar example, it is travel in Europe which has done

most to stimulate the movement for municipal reform. It is seeing

London and Paris, and Berlin and Birmingham, which has done most to

wake people up to the horrors of the Croker-Gilroy rule, and inflame

the determination to end it as a national disgrace. The class of

Americans who do not come back discontented are usually those who

had no education to start with.

"Knowledge to their eyes her ample page,

Rich with the spoils of time, did ne'er unroll!"

So, even when standing on the Acropolis at Athens or in the Tribuna

at Florence, they feel themselves sadly "out of it." They think

longingly of Billy or Jimmy, and the coffee and cakes of their far

Missouri or Arkansas home, and come back cursing Europe and its

contents. No damage is ever done by foreign travel to the "true

democratic American spirit" of this class.

And now as to "Anglomania," a subject to be handled with as much

delicacy as an anarchist bomb. Anglomania in one form or other is to

be met with in all countries, especially France and Germany, and has

shown itself here and there all over the Continent ever since the

peace of 1815. The things in which it most imitates the English are

riding, driving, men's clothes, sports in general, and domestic

comfort. The reason is that the English have for two centuries given

more attention to these things than any other people. No other has

so cultivated the horse for pleasure purposes. No other has devoted

so much thought and money to suitability in dress and to field sports.

No other has brought to such perfection the art of living in country

houses. In all these things people who can afford it try to imitate

them. We say, with a full consciousness of the responsibility which

the avowal entails on us, that they do right. It is well in any art

to watch and imitate the man who has best succeeded in it. The

sluggard has been exhorted even to imitate the ant, and anyone who

wishes to ride or drive well, or dress appropriately, or entertain

in a country house, ought to study the way the English do these

things, and follow their example, for anything worth doing ought to

be done well. It is mostly in these things that Anglomania consists.

Mrs. Stevenson, we fear, exaggerates greatly the number of

Anglomaniacs. A few dozen are as many as are to be found in any

country, and any government or polity which their presence puts in

peril ought to be overthrown, for assuredly it is rotten to the

core. There is nothing, in fact, better calculated to make Americans

hang their heads for shame than the list of small things which one

hears from "good Americans," put our institutions in danger. We

remember a good old publisher, in the days before international

copyright, who thought we could not much longer stand the

circulation of British novels. Their ideas, he said, were dangerous

to a republic. An Anglomaniac can hardly turn up his trousers on

Fifth Avenue without eliciting shrieks of alarm from the American

patriot. And yet a more harmless creature really does not exist.

These matters are worth notice because we are the only great nation

in the world whom people try to preach into patriotism. The natives

of other countries love their country simply, naturally, and for the

most part silently, as they love their mothers and their wives. But

to get an American to do so he has, one would think, to be followed

about by a preacher with a big stick exhorting him to be a "good

American," or he will catch it. But nobody was ever preached into

love of country. He may be preached into sacrifices in its behalf,

but the springs of love cannot be got at by any system of

persuasion. No man will love his country unless he feels it to be

lovable; and it is to making it lovable that the exertions of those

who have American patriotism in charge should be devoted.

Every Good American may take comfort in the fact that very few

people indeed of any social or political value who have once lived

in America ever want again to live in Europe, unless they go for

purposes of study or education. For there is no question that there

is no country in the world in which the atmosphere is so friendly,

and in which one is so sure of sympathy in misfortune, of acceptance

on his own merits independently of birth or money, and has so many

opportunities of escape from the slings and arrows of outrageous

fortune, as America. These are the things which, after all, in the

vast majority of cases, win and hold the human heart; and a country

which has them can well afford to let its citizens travel, and even

let some of them "be early English if they can."

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