THE MORALS AND MANNERS OF THE KITCHEN

Mr. Froude's attempt to secure from the American public a

favorable judgment on the dealings of England with Ireland has

had one good result--though we fear only one--in leading to a

little closer examination of the real state of American opinion

about Irish grievances than it has yet received. He will go back

to England with the knowledge--which he evidently did not possess

when he came here--that the great body of intelligent Americans

care very little about the history of "the six hundred years of

wrong," and know even less than they care, and could not be

induced, except by a land-grant, or a bounty, or a drawback, to

acquaint themselves with it; that those of them who have ever

tried to form an opinion on the Anglo-Irish controversy have

hardly ever got farther than a loose notion that England had most

likely behaved like a bully all through, but that her victim was

beyond all question an obstreperous and irreclaimable ruffian,

whose ill-treatment must be severely condemned by the moralist,

but over whom no sensible man can be expected to weep or

sympathize.

The agencies which have helped to form the popular idea of the

English political character are well known; those which have helped

to deprive the Irish of American sympathy--and which, if Mr. Froude

had judiciously confined himself to describing the efforts made by

England to promote Irish well-being _now_, would probably have made

his lectures very successful--are more obscure. We ourselves pointed

out one of the most prominent, and probably most powerful--the

conduct of the Irish servant-girl in the American kitchen. To this

must of course be added the specimen of "home rule" to which the

country has been treated in this city; but we doubt if this latter

has really exercised as much influence on American opinion as some

writers try to make out. A community which has produced Butler,

Banks, Parker, Bullock, Tweed, Tom Fields, Oakey Hall, Fernando

Wood, Barnard, and scores of others whom we might name, as the

results of good Protestant and Anglo-Saxon breeding, cannot really

be greatly shocked by the bad workings of Celtic blood and Catholic

theology in the persons of Peter B. Sweeny, Billy McMullen, Jimmy

O'Brien, Reddy the Blacksmith, or Judge McCunn. It is in the kitchen

that the Irish iron has entered into the American soul; and it is in

the kitchen that a great triumph was prepared for Mr. Froude, had he

been a judicious man. The memory of burned steaks, of hard-boiled

potatoes, of smoked milk, would have done for him what no state

papers, or records, or correspondence of the illustrious dead can

ever do; it had prepared the American mind to believe the very worst

he could say of Irish turbulence and disorder. Not one of his

auditors but could find in his own experience of Irish cooking

circumstances which would probably have led him to accept without

question the execution of Silken Thomas, the massacre of Drogheda,

or even the Penal Laws, as perfectly justifiable exercises of

authority, and would certainly have made it easy for him to believe

that English rule in Ireland at the present day is beneficent beyond

example.

Nevertheless, we are constrained to say that in our opinion a

great deal of the odium which surrounds Bridget, and which has

excited so much prejudice, not only against her countrymen, but

against her ancestors, in American eyes, has a very insufficient

foundation in reason. There are three characters in which she is

the object of public suspicion and dislike--(1) as a cook; (2) as a

party to a contract; (3) as a member of a household. The charges

made against her in all of these have been summed up in a recent

attack on her in the _Atlantic Monthly_, as "a lack of every quality

which makes service endurable to the employer, or a wholesome life

for the servant."

And the same article charges her with "proving herself, in

obedience, fidelity, care, and accuracy, the inferior of every

kind of servant known to modern society." Of course, there is

hardly a family in the country which has not had, in its own

experience, illustrations of the extravagance of these charges.

There is probably nobody who has long kept servants, who has not

had Irish servants who were obedient, faithful, careful, and even

accurate in a remarkable degree. But then it must be admitted that

this indictment is a tolerably fair rendering, if not of the actual

facts of the case, at least of the impression the facts have left

on the mind of the average employer. This impression, however, needs

correction, as a few not very recondite considerations will show.

As a cook, Bridget is an admitted failure. But cooking is, it is

now generally acknowledged, very much an affair of instinct, and

this instinct seems to be very strong in some races and very weak

in others, though why the French should have it highly developed,

and the Irish be almost altogether deprived of it, is a question

which would require an essay to itself. No amount of teaching

will make a person a good cook who is not himself fond of good

food and has not a delicate palate, for it is the palate which

must test the value of rules. We may deduce from this the

conclusion, which experience justifies, that women are not

naturally good cooks. They have had the cookery of the world in

their hands for several thousand years, but all the marked

advances in the art, and indeed all that can be called the

cultivation of it, have been the work of men. Whatever zeal women

have displayed in it, and whatever excellence they have achieved

in it, have been the result of influences in no way gastronomic,

and which we might perhaps call emotional, such as devotion to

male relatives, or a desire to minister to the pleasure of men in

general. Few or no women cook a dinner in an artistic spirit, and

their success in doing it is nearly always the result of

affection or loyalty--which is of course tantamount to saying

that female cookery as a whole is, and always has been,

comparatively poor.

As a proof of this, we may mention the fact--for fact we think it

is--that the art of cooking among women has declined at any given

time or place--in the Northern States of the Union, for

instance--_pari passu_, with the growth of female independence. That

is, as the habit or love of ministering to men's tastes has become

weaker, the interest in cookery has fallen off. There are no such

cooks among native American women now as there were fifty years ago;

and passages in foreign cookery books which assume the existence

among women of strong interest in their husbands' and brothers'

likings, and strong desire to gratify them, furnish food for

merriment in American households. Bridget, therefore, can plead,

first of all, the general incapacity of women as cooks; and,

secondly, the general falling off in the art under the influence of

the new ideas. It may be that she _ought_ to cultivate assiduously

or with enthusiasm a calling which all the other women of the

country ostentatiously despise, but she would be more than human if

she did so. She imitates American women as closely as she can, and

cannot live on the same soil without imbibing their ideas; and

unhappily, as in all cases of imitation, vices are more easily and

earlier caught than virtues.

She can make, too, an economical defence of the most powerful

kind, to the attacks on her in this line, and it is this: that

whether her cooking be bad or good, she offers it without

deception or subterfuge, at a fair rate, and without compulsion;

that nobody who does not like her dishes need eat them; and that

her defects of taste or training can only be fairly made a cause

of hatred and abuse when she does work badly, which somebody else

is waiting to do better, if she would get out of the way. She has

undertaken the task of cooking for the American nation, not of

her own motion, but simply and solely because the American nation

could find nobody else to do it. She does not, therefore, occupy

the position of a broken-down or incompetent artist, but of a

volunteer at a fire, or a passer-by when you are lying in the

ditch with your leg broken.

The plain truth of the matter is, that the whole native population

of the United States has almost suddenly, and with one accord,

refused to perform for hire any of the services usually called

"menial" or indoor. The men have found other more productive fields

of industry, and the women, under the influence of the prevailing

theory of life, have resolved to accept any employment at any wages

sooner than do other people's housework. The result has been a

demand for trained servants which the whole European continent could

not supply if it would, and which has proved so intense that it has

drawn the peasantry out of the fields _en masse_ from the one

European country in which the peasantry was sufficiently poor to be

tempted, and spoke or understood the American language. No such

phenomenon has ever been witnessed before. No country before has

ever refused to do its own "chores," and called in an army of

foreigners for the purpose. To complain bitterly of their want of

skill is therefore, under the circumstances, almost puerile, from an

economical point of view; while, to anyone who looks at the matter

as a moralist, it is hard to see why Bridget, doing the work badly

in the kitchen, is any more a contemptible object than the American

sewing-girl killing herself in a garret at three dollars a week, out

of devotion to "the principle of equality."

As a party to a contract, Bridget's defects are very strongly

marked. Her sense of the obligation of contracts is feeble. The

reason why this particular vice excites so much odium in her case

is, that the inconveniences of her breaches of contract are

greater than those of almost any other member of the community.

They touch us in our most intimate social relations, and cause us

an amount of mental anguish out of all proportion to their real

importance. But her spirit about contracts is really that of the

entire community in which she lives. Her way of looking at her

employer is, we sincerely believe, about the way of looking at

him common among all employees. The only real restraint on

laborers of any class among us nowadays is the difficulty of

finding another place. Whenever it becomes as easy for clerks,

draughtsmen, mechanics, and the like to "suit themselves" as it

is for cooks or housemaids, we find them as faithless. Native

mechanics and seamstresses are just as perfidious as Bridget, but

incur less obloquy, because their faithlessness causes less

annoyance; but they have no more regard in making their plans for

the interest or wishes of their employer than she has, and they

all take the "modern view" of the matter. What makes her so fond

of change is that she lives in a singularly restless society, in

which everybody is engaged in a continual struggle to "better

himself"--her master, in nine cases out of ten, setting her an

example of dislike to steady industry and slow gains. Moreover,

domestic service is a kind of employment which, if not sweetened

by personal affection, is extraordinarily full of wear and tear.

In it there is no real end to the day, and in small households,

the pursuit and oversight, and often the "nagging," of the

employer, or, in other words, the presence of an exacting,

semi-hostile, and slightly contemptuous person is constant. This

and confinement in a half-dark kitchen produce that nervous

crisis which sends male mechanics and other male laborers,

engaged in monotonous callings, off "on a spree." In Bridget's

case it works itself off by a change of place, with a few days of

squalid repose among "her own people" in a tenement-house.

As regards her general bearing as a member of a household, she

has to contend with three great difficulties--ignorance of

civilized domestic life, for which she is no more to blame than

Russian moujiks; difference of race and creed on the part of her

employer (and this is one which the servants of no other country

have to contend with); and lastly, the strong contempt for

domestic service felt and manifested by all that portion of the

American population with which she comes in contact, and to which

it is her great ambition to assimilate herself. Those who have

ever tried the experiment of late years of employing a native

American as a servant, have, we believe, before it was over,

generally come to look on Bridget as the personification of

repose, if not of comfort; and those who have to call on native

Americans, even occasionally, for services of a quasi-personal

character, such as those of expressmen, hotel clerks, plumbers,

we believe are anxious to make their intercourse with these

gentlemen as brief as possible. Most expressmen are natives, and

are freemen of intelligence and capacity, but they carry your

trunk into your hall with the air of convicts doing forced labor

for a tyrannical jailer. If the spirit in which they discharge

their duties--and they are specimens of a large class--were to

make its way into our kitchens, society would go to pieces.

In short, Bridget is the legitimate product of our economical,

political, and moral condition. We have called her, in our

extremity, to do duties for which she is not trained, and having

got her here have surrounded her with influences and ideas which

American society has busied itself for fifty years in fostering

and spreading, and which, taking hold of persons in her stage of

development, work mental and moral ruin. The things which

American life and manners preach to her are not patience,

sober-mindedness, faithfulness, diligence, and honesty, and

eagerness for physical enjoyment. Whenever the sound of the new

gospel which is to win the natives back to the ancient and noble

ways is heard in the land, it is fair to expect that it will not

find her ears wholly closed, and that when the altar of duty is

again set up by her employers, she will lay on it attractive

beefsteaks, potatoes done to a turn, make libations of delicious

soup, and will display remarkable fertility in "sweets," and an

extreme fondness for washing, and learn to grow old in one

family.

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