(1789-)
THE KING'S RECOVERY:
ROYAL VISIT To WEYMOUTH.
THE KING'S REAPPEARANCE.
Kew Palace, Sunday, March 1.-What a pleasure was mine this
morning! how solemn, but how grateful! The queen gave me the
"Prayer of Thanksgiving" upon the king's recovery. It was this
morning read in all the churches throughout the metropolis, and
by this day week it will reach every church in the kingdom. It
kept me in tears all the morning,--that such a moment should
actually arrive! after fears so dreadful, scenes so terrible.
The queen gave me a dozen to distribute among the female
servants: but I reserved one of them for dear Mr. Smelt, who took
it from me in speechless extacy--his fine and feeling eyes
swimming in tears of joy. There is no describing--and I will not
attempt it--the fullness, the almost overwhelming fullness of
this morning's thankful feelings!
I had the great gratification to see the honoured object of this
joy, for a few minutes, in the queen's dressing-room. He was all
calmness and benevolent graciousness. I fancied my strong
emotion had disfigured me; or perhaps the whole of this long
confinement and most affecting winter may have somewhat marked my
countenance; for the king presently said to me, "Pray, are you
quite well to-day?"
" I think not quite, sir," I answered,
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"She does not look well," said he to the queen; "she looks a
little yellow, I think."
How kind, to think of anybody and their looks, at this first
moment of reappearance!
AN AIRING AND ITS CONSEQUENCES.
Wednesday, March 4.-A message from Mrs. Schwellenberg this
morning, to ask me to air with her, received my most reluctant
acquiescence; for the frost is so severe that any air, without
exercise, is terrible to me; though, were her atmosphere milder,
the rigour of the season I might not regard.
When we came to the passage the carriage was not ready. She
murmured most vehemently; and so bitterly cold was I, I could
heartily have joined, had it answered any purpose. In this cold
passage we waited in this miserable manner a full quarter of an
hour; Mrs. Schwellenberg all the time scolding the servants,
threatening them With exile, sending message after message,
repining, thwarting, and contentious.
Now we were to go, and wait in the king's rooms--now in the
gentlemen's--now in Dr. Willis's--her own--and this, in the end,
took place.
In our way we encountered Mr. Fairly. He asked where we were
going. "To my own parlour!" she answered.
He accompanied us in; and, to cheer the gloom, seized some of the
stores of Dr. Willis,--sandwiches, wine and water, and other
refreshments,--and brought them to us, one after another in a
sportive manner, recommending to us to break through common
rules, on such an occasion, and eat and drink to warm ourselves.
Mrs. Schwellenberg stood in stately silence, and bolt upright,
scarce deigning to speak even a refusal; till, upon his saying,
while he held a glass of wine in his hand, "Come, ma'am, do
something eccentric for once--it will warm you," she angrily
answered, "You been reely--what you call--too much hospital!"
Neither of us could help laughing. "Yes," cried he, "with the
goods of others;--that makes a wide difference in hospitality!"
Then he rattled away upon the honours the room had lately
received, of having had Mr. Pitt, the Chancellor, Archbishop of
Canterbury, etc., to wait in it. This she resented highly, as
seeming to think it more honoured in her absence than presence.
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At length we took our miserable airing, in which I was treated
with as much fierce harshness as if I was being conveyed to some
place of confinement for the punishment Of some dreadful offence!
She would have the glass down on my side; the piercing wind cut
my face; I put my muff up to it: this incensed her so much, that
she vehemently declared "she never, no never would trobble any
won to air with her again but go always selfs."--And who will
repine at that? thought I.
Yet by night I had caught a violent cold, which flew to my face,
and occasioned me dreadful pain.
March 10.-I have been in too much pain to write these last five
days; and I became very feverish, and universally ill, affected
with the fury of the cold.
My royal mistress, who could not but observe me very unwell,
though I have never omitted my daily three attendances, which I
have performed with a difficulty all but insurmountable,
concluded I had been guilty of some imprudence: I told the simple
fact of the glass,--but quite simply, and without one
circumstance. She instantly said she was surprised I could catch
cold in an airing, as it never appeared that it disagreed with me
when I took it with Mrs. Delany.
"No, ma'am," I immediately answered, "nor with Mrs, Locke; nor
formerly with Mrs. Thrale:--but they left me the regulation of
the glass on my own side to myself; or, if they interfered, it
was to draw it up for me."
This I could not resist. I can be silent; but when challenged to
speak at all, it must be plain truth.
I had no answer. Illness here--till of late--has been so
unknown, that it is commonly supposed it must be wilful, and
therefore meets little notice, till accompanied by danger, or
incapacity of duty. This is by no means from hardness of
heart-far otherwise ; there is no hardness of heart in any one of
them ; but it is prejudice and want of personal experience.
ILLUMINATIONS ON THE KING's RECOVERY.
March 10.-This was a day of happiness indeed!---a day of such
heartfelt public delight as Could not but suppress all private
disturbance. The general illumination of all London proved the
universal joy of a thankful and most affectionate people, who
have shown so largely, on this trying occasion, how well they
merited the monarch thus benignantly preserved.
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The queen, from the privy purse, gave private orders for a
Splendid illumination at this palace.(305) The King--
Providence--Health--and Britannia, were displayed with elegant
devices; the queen and princesses, all but the youngest, went to
town to see the illumination there; and Mr. Smelt was to conduct
the surprise.--It was magnificently beautiful.
When it was lighted and prepared, the Princess Amelia went to
lead her papa to the front window: but first she dropped on -her
knees, and presented him a paper with these lines-which, at the
queen's desire, I had scribbled in her name, for the happy
occasion:--
TO THE KING.
Amid a rapt'rous nation's praise
That sees Thee to their prayers restor'd,
Turn gently from the gen'ral blaze,--
Thy Charlotte woos her bosom's lord.
Turn and behold where, bright and clear,
Depictur'd with transparent art,
The emblems of her thoughts appear,
The tribute of a grateful heart.
O! small the tribute, were it weigh'd
With all she feels--or half she owes!
But noble minds are best repaid
>From the pure spring whence bounty flows.
PS. The little bearer begs a kiss
>From dear papa for bringing this.
I need not, I think, tell you, the little bearer begged not in
vain. The king was extremely pleased. He came into a room
belonging to the princesses, in which we had a party to look at
the illuminations, and there he stayed above an hour; cheerful,
composed, and gracious! all that could merit the great national
testimony to his worth this day paid him.
MR FAIRLY ON MISS BURNEY's DUTIES.
Windsor, March 18.-A little rap announced Mr. Fairly, who came
in, saying, "I am escaped for a little while, to have some quiet
conversation with you, before the general assemblage and storm of
company." He then gravely said, "Tomorrow I shall take leave of
you--for a long time
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He intended setting off to-morrow morning for town, by the
opportunity of the equerries' coach, which would convey him to
Kew, where his majesty was to receive an address.
He told me, with a good deal of humour, that he suspected me of
being rather absent in my official occupation, from little
natural care about toilettes and such things. I could not
possibly deny this,--on the contrary, I owned I had, at first,
found my attention unattainable, partly from flutter and
embarrassment, and partly from the reasons he so discerningly
assigned. "I have even," I added, "and not seldom, handed her
fan before her gown, and her gloves before her cap but I am
better in all that now!"
"I should think all that very likely," cried he, smiling; "yet it
is not very trifling with her majesty, who is so exact and
precise, such things seem to her of moment."
This is truth itself.
I said, "No,--she is more gracious, more kind, indeed, to me than
ever: she scarce speaks, scarce turns to me without a smile."
" Well," cried he, extremely pleased, "this must much soften your
employment and confinement. And, indeed, it was most natural to
expect this time of distress should prove a cement."
A VISIT FROM MISS FUZILIER.
I think I need not mention meeting my beloved Fredy in town, on
our delightful excursion thither for the grand restoration
Drawing-room, in which the queen received the compliments and
congratulations of almost all the Court part of the nation. Miss
Cambridge worked me, upon this occasion, a suit, in silks upon
tiffany, most excessively delicate and pretty, and much admired
by her majesty.
All I shall mention of this town visit is, that, the day after
the great Drawing-room, Miss Fuzilier, for the first time since I
have been in office, called upon me to inquire after the queen.
Miss Tryon, and Mrs. Tracey, and Mrs. Fielding were with her.
She looked serious, sensible, interesting. I thought instantly of
the report concerning Mr. Fairly, and of his disavowal : but it
was singular that the only time she opened her mouth to speak was
to name him! Miss Tryon, who chatted incessantly, had spoken of
the great confusion at the Drawing-room, from the crowd: "It was
intended to be better regulated," said Miss
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F., "Mr. Fairly told me." She dropped her eye the moment she
had spoken his name. After this, as before it, she said nothing.
. . .
Mr. George Villiers, a younger brother of Lord Clarendon, was now
here as groom of the bedchamber. He is very clever, somewhat
caustigue, but so loyal and vehement in the king's cause, that he
has the appellation, from his party, of "The Tiger."
He would not obtain it for his person, which is remarkably slim,
slight, and delicate.
A COMMAND FROM HER MAJESTY.
Kew, April, 1789. My dearest friends, - I have her majesty's
commands to inquire--whether you have any of a certain breed of
poultry?
N.B. What breed I do not remember.
And to say she has just received a small group of the same
herself.
N.B. The quantity I have forgotten.
And to add, she is assured they are something very rare and
scarce, and extraordinary and curious.
N.B. By whom she was assured I have not heard.
And to subjoin, that you must send word if you have any of the
same sort.
N.B. How you are to find that out, I cannot tell.
And to mention, as a corollary, that, if you have none of them,
and should like to have some, she has a cock and a hen she can
spare, and will appropriate them to Mr. Locke and my dearest
Fredy.
This conclusive stroke so pleased and exhilarated me, that
forthwith I said you would both be enchanted, and so forgot all
the preceding particulars. And I said, moreover, that I knew you
would rear them, and cheer them, and fondle them like your
children.
So now-pray write a very fair answer fairly, in fair hand, and to
her fair purpose.
COLONEL MANNERS MYSTIFIES MRS. SCHWELLENBERG.
Queen's Lodge, Windsor, April.-Mrs. Schwellenberg is softened
into nothing but civility and courtesy to me. To what the change
is owing I cannot conjecture; but I do all that in me lies
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to support it, preferring the entire sacrifice of every moment,
from our dinner to twelve at night, to her harshness and horrors.
Nevertheless, a lassitude of existence creeps sensibly upon me.
Colonel Manners, however, for the short half-hour of tea-time, is
irresistibly diverting. He continues my constant friend and
neighbour, and, while he affects to play off the coadjutrix to
advantage, he nods at me, to draw forth my laughter or
approbation, with the most alarming undisguise. I often fear her
being affronted ; but naturally she admires him very much for his
uncommon share of beauty, and makes much allowance for his
levity. However, the never-quite-comprehended affair of the
leather bed-cover,(306) has in some degree intimidated her ever
since, as she constantly apprehends that, if he were provoked, he
would play her some trick.
He had been at White's ball, given in town upon his majesty's
recovery. We begged some account of it: he ranted away with
great fluency, uttering little queer sarcasms at Mrs,
Schwellenberg by every opportunity, and colouring when he had
done, with private fear of enraging her. This, however, she
suspected not, or all his aim had been lost; for to alarm her is
his delight.
"I liked it all," he said, in summing up his relation, "very
well, except the music, and I like any caw-caw-caw, better than
that sort of noise,--only you must not tell the king I say that,
ma'am, because the king likes it."
She objected to the words " must not," and protested she would
not be directed by no one, and would tell it, if she pleased.
Upon this, he began a most boisterous threatening of the evil
consequences which would accrue to herself, though in so
ludicrous a manner, that how she could suppose him serious was my
wonder. "Take care of yourself, ma'am," he cried, holding up his
finger as if menacing a child; "take care of yourself! I am not
to be provoked twice!"
This, after a proud resistance, conquered her - and, really
frightened at she knew not what, she fretfully exclaimed, "Ver
well, sir!--I wish I had not come down! I won't no more! you
might have your tea when you can get It."
Returning to his account, he owned he had been rather a little
musical himself for once, which was when they all sang "God save
the king," after the supper; for then he joined in
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the chorus, as well and as loud as any of them, "though some of
the company," he added, "took the liberty to ask me not to be so
loud, because they pretended I was out of tune; but it was In
such a good cause that I did not mind that."
She was no sooner recovered than the attack became personal
again; and so it has continued ever since: he seems bent upon
"playing her off" in all manners; he braves her, then compliments
her, assents to her opinion, and the next moment contradicts her;
pretends uncommon friendship for her, and then laughs in her
face. But his worst manoeuvre is a perpetual application to me,
by looks and sly glances, which fill me with terror of passing
for an accomplice; and the more, as I find it utterly impossible
to keep grave during these absurdities. And yet, the most
extraordinary part of the story is that she really likes him!
though at times she is so angry, she makes vows to keep to her
own room.
Mr. George Villiers, with far deeper aim, sneers out his own more
artful satire, but is never understood ; while Colonel Manners
domineers with so high a hand, he carries all before him; and
whenever Mrs. Schwellenberg, to lessen her mortification, draws
me into the question, he instantly turns off whatever she begins
into some high-flown compliment, so worded also as to convey some
comparative reproach. This offends more than all.
When she complains to me of him, in his absence, I answer he is a
mere schoolboy, for mischief, without serious design of
displeasing: but she tells me she sees he means to do her some
harm, and she will let the king know, if he goes on at that rate,
for she does not choose such sort of familiarness.
Once she apologised suddenly for her English, and Colonel Manners
said, "O, don't mind that, ma'am, for I take no particular notice
as to your language."
"But," says she, "Miss Berner might tell me, when I speak it
sometimes not quite right, what you call."
"O dear no, ma'am!" exclaimed he; "Miss Burney is of too mild a
disposition for that: she could not correct you strong enough to
do you good."
"Oh!-ver well, sir!" she cried, confounded by his effrontery.
One day she lamented she had been absent when there was so much
agreeable company in the house; "And now," she
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added, "now that I am comm back, here is nobody.--not one!--no
society!" .
He protested this was not to be endured, and told her that to
reckon all us nobody was so bad, he should resent it.
"What will you do, my good colonel?" she cried.
"O ma'am, do?--I will tell Dr. Davis."
"And who bin he?"
"Why, he's the master of Eton school, ma'am," with a thundering
bawl in her ears, that made her stop them.
"No, sir!" she cried, indignantly, "I thank you for that, I won't
have no Dr. schoolmaster, what you call! I bin too old for
that."
"But, ma'am, he shall bring you a Latin oration upon this
subject, and you must hear it!"
"O, 'tis all the same! I shan't not understand it, so I won't
not hear it."
"But you must, ma'am. If I write it, I shan't let you off so:--
you must hear it!"
"No, I won't!--Miss Berner might,--give it her."
"Does Miss Burney know Latin?" cried Mr. G. Villiers.
"Not one word," quoth I.
"I believe that cried she "but she might hear it the sam!"
THE SAILOR PRINCE.
On the 2nd of May I met Colonel Manners, waiting at the corner of
a passage leading towards the queen's apartments. "Is the king,
ma'am," he cried, "there? because Prince William(307) is come."
I had heard he was arrived in town,-and with much concern, since
it was without leave of the king. It was in the illness, indeed,
of the king he sailed to England, and when he had probably all
the excuse of believing his royal father incapable of further
governance. How did I grieve for the feelings of that royal
father, in this idea! yet it certainly offers for Prince William
his best apology.
In the evening, while Mrs. Schwellenberg, Mrs. Zachary and myself
were sitting in the eating parlour, the door was suddenly opened
by Mr. Alberts, the queen's page, and "prince William" was
announced.
He came to see Mrs. Schwellenberg. He is handsome, as
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are all the royal family, though he is not of a height to be
called a good figure. He looked very hard at the two
strangers, but made us all sit, very civilly, and drew a chair
for himself, and began to discourse with the most unbounded
openness and careless ease, of everything that Occurred to him.
Mrs. Schwellenberg said she had pitied him for the grief he must
have felt at the news of the king's illness : "Yes," cried he, "I
was very sorry, for his majesty, very sorry indeed, -no man loves
the king better ; of that be assured. but all sailors
love their king. And I felt for the queen, too,--I did, faith.
I was horridly agitated when I saw the king first. I could
hardly stand."
Then Mrs. Schwellenberg suddenly said, "Miss Berner, now you
might see his royal highness; you wanted it so moch, and now you
might do it. Your royal highness, that is Miss Berner."
He rose very civilly, and bowed, to this strange freak of an
introduction; and, of course, I rose and Curtsied low, and waited
his commands to sit again; which were given instantly, with great
courtesy.
"Ma'am," cried he, "you have a brother in the service?" "Yes,
sir," I answered, much pleased with this professional attention.
He had not, he civilly said, the pleasure to know him, but he had
heard of him.
Then, turning suddenly to Mrs. Schwellenberg, "Pray," cried he, "
what is become of Mrs.--Mrs.--Mrs. Hogentot?"
"O, your royal highness!" cried she, stifling much offence, "do
you mean the poor Haggerdorn?--O your royal highness! have you
forgot her?"
"i have, upon my word!" cried he, plumply "upon my soul, I have!"
Then turning again to me, "I am very happy, ma'am," he cried, "to
see you here; it gives me great pleasure the queen should appoint
the sister of a sea-officer to so eligible a situation. As long
as she has a brother in the service, ma'am,, cried he to Mrs.
Schwellenberg, "I look upon her as one of us. O, faith I do! I
do indeed! she is one of the corps."
Then he said he had been making acquaintance with a new princess,
one he did not know nor remember-Princess Amelia. "Mary, too,"--
he said, "I had quite forgot; and they did not tell me who she
was; so I went up to her, and, without in the least recollecting
her, she's so monstrously grown, I said, 'Pray, ma'am, are you
one of the attendants?'"
Princess Sophia is his professed favourite. "I have had the
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honour," he cried, "of about an hour's conversation with that
young lady, in the old style; though I have given up my mad
frolics now. To be sure, I had a few in that style formerly;
upon my word I am almost ashamed;--Ha! ha! ha!"
Then, recollecting particulars, he laughed vehemently; but Mrs.
Schwellenberg eagerly interrupted his communications. I fancy
some of them might have related to our own sacred person!
"Augusta," he said "looks very well,--a good face and
countenance,--she looks interesting,--she looks as if she knew
more than she Would say; and I like that character."
He stayed a full hour, chatting in this good-humoured and
familiar manner.
LOYAL RECEPTION OF THE KING IN THE NEW FOREST.
Thursday, June 25.-This morning I was called before five o'clock,
though various packages and business had kept me up till near
three.
The day was rainy, but the road was beautiful; Windsor great
park, in particular, is charming. The crowds increased as we
advanced, and at Winchester the town was one head. I saw Dr.
Warton, but could not stop the carriage. The king was everywhere
received with acclamation. His popularity is greater than ever.
Compassion for his late sufferings seems to have endeared him now
to all conditions of men.
At Romsey, on the steps of the town-hall, an orchestra was
formed, and a band of musicians, in common brown coarse cloth and
red neckcloths, and even in carters' loose gowns, made a chorus
of "God save the king," In which the countless multitude joined,
in such loud acclamation, that their loyalty and heartiness, and
natural joy, almost surprised me into a sob before I knew myself
at all affected by them.
The New Forest Is all beauty, and when we approached Lyndhurst
the crowds wore as picturesque an appearance as the landscapes ;
They were all in decent attire, and, the great space giving them
full room, the cool beauty of the verdure between the groups took
away all idea of inconvenience, and made their live gaiety a
scene to joy beholders.
Carriages of all sorts lined the road-side :-chariots, chaises,
landaus, carts, waggons, whiskies, gigs, phatons--mixed and
intermixed, filled Within and surrounded without by faces all
glee and delight.
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Such was the scenery for miles before we reached Lyndhurst. The
old law of the forest, that his majesty must be presented with
two milk-white greyhounds, peculiarly decorated, upon his
entrance into the New Forest, gathered together multitudes to see
the show. A party, also, of foresters, habited in green, and
each with a bugle-horn, met his majesty at the same time.
Arrived at Lyndhurst, we drove to the Duke of Gloucester's. The
royal family were just before us, but the two colonels came and
handed us through the crowd. The house, intended for a mere
hunting-seat, was built by Charles II., and seems quite
unimproved and unrepaired from its first foundation. It is the
king's, but lent to the Duke of Gloucester. It is a straggling,
inconvenient, old house, but delightfully situated, in a
village,--looking, indeed, at present, like a populous town, from
the amazing concourse of people that have crowded into it.
The bow-men and archers and bugle-horns are to attend the king
while he stays here, in all his rides.
The Duke of Gloucester was ready to receive the royal family, who
are all in the highest spirits and delight.
I have a small old bed-chamber, but a large and commodious
parlour, in which the gentlemen join Miss Planta and me to
breakfast and to drink tea. They dine at the royal table. We
are to remain here some days.
During the king's dinner, which was in a parlour looking into the
garden, he permitted the people to come to the window; and their
delight and rapture in seeing their monarch at table, with the
evident hungry feeling it occasioned, made a contrast of
admiration and deprivation, truly comic. They crowded, however,
so excessively, that this can be permitted them no more. They
broke down all the paling, and much of the hedges, and some of
the windows, and all by eagerness and multitude, for they were
perfectly civil and well-behaved.
In the afternoon the royal party came into my parlour; and the
moment the people saw the star, they set up such a shout as made
a ring all around the village; for my parlour has the same view
with the royal rooms into the garden, where this crowd was
assembled, and the new rapture was simply at seeing the king in a
new apartment!
They all walked out, about and around the village, in the
evening, and the delighted mob accompanied them. The
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moment they stepped out of the house, the people, With voice,
struck up "God save the king!" I assure you I cried like a child
twenty times in the day, at the honest and rapturous effusions of
such artless and disinterested loyalty. The king's illness and
recovery make me tender, as Count Mannuccia said, upon every
recollection.
These good villagers continued singing this loyal song during the
whole walk, without any intermission, except to shout "huzza!" at
the end of every stanza. They returned so hoarse, that I longed
to give them all some lemonade. Probably they longed for
something they would have called better! 'Twas well the king
could walk no longer; I think, if he had, they would have died
singing around him.
June 30.-We continued at Lyndhurst five days and the tranquillity
of the life, and the beauty of the country, would have made it
very regaling to me indeed, but for the fatigue of having no
maid, yet being always in readiness to play the part of an
attendant myself.
I went twice to see the house of Sir Phillip Jennings Clerke, my
old acquaintance at Streatham. I regretted he was no more; he
would so much have prided and rejoiced in shewing his place. His
opposition principles would not have interfered with that private
act of duty from a subject to a sovereign. How did I call to
mind Mrs. Thrale, upon this spot! not that I had seen it with
her, or ever before; but that its late owner was one of her
sincerest admirers.
Miss Planta and myself drove also to Southampton, by the queen's
direction. It is a pretty clean town, and the views from the
Southampton water are highly picturesque : but all this I had
seen to far greater advantage, with Mr. and Mrs. and Miss Thrale.
Ah, Mrs. Thrale!--In thinking her over, as I saw again the same
spot, how much did I wish to see with it the same--once so dear--
companion!
On the Sunday we all went to the parish church ; and after the
service, instead of a psalm, imagine our surprise to hear the
whole congregation join in "God save the king!" Misplaced as
this was in a church, its intent was so kind, loyal, and
affectionate, that I believe there was not a dry eye amongst
either singers or hearers. The king's late dreadful illness has
rendered this song quite melting to me.
This day we quitted Lyndhurst; not without regret, for so private
is its situation, I could stroll about in its beautiful
neighbourhood quite alone.
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THE ROYAL JOURNEY TO WEYMOUTH.
The journey to Weymouth was one scene of festivity and rejoicing.
The people were everywhere collected, and everywhere delighted.
We passed through Salisbury, where a magnificent arch was
erected, of festoons of flowers, for the king's carriage to pass
under, and mottoed with "The king restored," and "Long live the
king," in three divisions. The green bowmen accompanied the
train thus far; and the clothiers and manufacturers here met it,
dressed out in white loose frocks, flowers, and ribbons, with
sticks or caps emblematically decorated from their several
manufactories. And the acclamations with which the king was
received amongst them--it was a rapture past description. At
Blandford there was nearly the same ceremony.
At every gentleman's seat which we passed, the owners and their
families stood at the gate, and their guests Or neighbours were
in carriages all round.
At Dorchester the crowd seemed still increased. The city had so
antique an air, I longed to investigate its old buildings. The
houses have the most ancient appearance of any that are inhabited
that I have happened to see: and inhabited they were indeed!
every window-sash was removed, for face above face to peep Out,
and every old balcony and all the leads of the houses seemed
turned into booths for fairs. It seems, also, the most populous
town I have seen; I judge by the concourse of the young and
middle-aged--those we saw everywhere alike, as they may gather
together from all quarters-but from the amazing quantity of
indigenous residers; old women and young children. There seemed
families of ten or twelve of the latter in every house; and the
old women were so numerous, that they gave the whole scene the
air of a rural masquerade.
Girls, with chaplets, beautiful young creatures, strewed the
entrance of various villages with flowers.
WELCOME TO WEYMOUTH.
Gloucester House, which we now inhabit, at Weymouth, is Situated
in front of the sea, and the sands of the bay before it are
perfectly smooth and soft. The whole town, and Melcomb Regis,
and half the county of Dorset, seemed assembled to
welcome their majesties.
I have here a very good parlour, but dull, from its aspect.
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Nothing but the sea at Weymouth affords any life Or Spirit. My
bed-room is in the attics. Nothing like living at a Court for
exaltation. Yet even with this gratification, which extends to
Miss Planta, the house will only hold the females of the party.
The two adjoining houses are added, for the gentlemen, an(] the
pages, and some other of the suite, cooks, etc.--but the footmen
are obliged to lodge still farther off.
The bay is very beautiful, after its kind; a peninsula shuts out
Portland island and the broad ocean.
The king, and queen, and princesses, and their suite, walked out
in the evening; an immense crowd attended them--sailors bargemen,
mechanics, countrymen; and all united with so vociferous a volley
of "God save the king," that the noise was stunning.
At near ten o'clock Lord Courtown came into my parlour, as it is
called, and said the town was all illuminated, and invited Miss
Planta and me to a walk upon the sands. Their majesties were
come in to supper. We took a stroll under his escort, and found
it singularly beautiful, the night being very fine, and several
boats and small vessels lighted up, and in motion upon the sea.
The illumination extended through Melcomb Regis and Weymouth.
Gloucester-row, in which we live, is properly in Melcomb Regis;
but the two towns join each other, and are often confounded.
The preparations of festive loyalty were universal. Not a child
could we meet that had not a bandeau round its head, cap, or hat,
of "God save the king;" all the bargemen wore it in cockades and
even the bathing-women had it in large coarse girdles round their
waists. It is printed in golden letters upon most of the
bathing-machines, and in various scrolls and devices it adorns
every shop and almost every house in the two towns.
THE ROYAL PLUNGE WITH MUSICAL HONOURS.
"YOU MUST KNEEL, SIR!"
Gloucester House, Weymouth, Wednesday, July 9.-We are settled
here comfortably enough. Miss Planta and I breakfast as well as
dine together alone; the gentlemen have a breakfast parlour in
the adjoining house, and we meet only at tea, and seldom then.
They have all acquaintance here, in this Gloucester-row, and
stroll from the terrace or the sands, to visit them during the
tea vacation time.
Page 315.'
I like this much: I see them just enough to keep up sociability,
without any necessary constraint; for I attend the tea-table
only at my own hour, and they come, or not, according to
chance or their convenience.
The king bathes, and with great success; a machine follows the
royal one into the sea, filled with fiddlers, who play "God save
the king," as his majesty takes his plunge!
I am delighted with the soft air and soft footing upon the sands,
and stroll up and down them morning, noon, and night. As they
are close before the house, I can get to and from them in a
moment.
Her majesty has graciously hired a little maid between Miss
Planta and me, who comes for the day. We have no accommodation
for her sleeping here; but it is an unspeakable relief to our
personal fatigues.
Dr. Gisburne is here, to attend his majesty; and the queen has
ordered me to invite him to dine at my table. He comes
regularly.
(Fanny Burney to Dr. Burney.)
Gloucester Rowe, Weymouth, July 13, 1789.
My dearest padre's kind letter was most truly welcome to me.
When I am so distant, the term of absence or of silence seems
always doubly long to me.
The bay here is most beautiful; the sea never rough, generally
calm and gentle, and the sands perfectly smooth and pleasant. I
have not bathed, for I have had a cold in my head, which I caught
at Lyndhurst, and which makes me fear beginning; but I have hopes
to be well enough to-morrow, and thenceforward to ail nothing
more. It is my intention to cast away all superfluous complaints
into the main ocean, which I think quite sufficiently capacious
to hold them ; and really my little frame will find enough to
carry and manage without them. . . .
His majesty is in delightful health, and much-improved spirits.
All agree he never looked better. The loyalty of all this place
is excessive; they have dressed out every street with labels of
"God save the king:" all the shops have it over the doors: all
the children wear it in their caps, all the labourers in their
hats, and all the sailors in their voices, for they never
approach the house without shouting it aloud, nor see the king,
or his shadow, without beginning to huzza, and going on to three
cheers.
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The bathing-machines make it their motto over the windows; and
those bathers that belong to the royal dippers wear it in
bandeaus on their bonnets, to go into the sea; and have it again,
in large letters, round their waists, to encounter the waves.
Flannel dresses, tucked up, and no shoes nor stockings, with
bandeaus and girdles, have a most singular appearance, and when
first I surveyed these loyal nymphs it was with some difficulty I
kept my features in order. Nor is this all. Think but Of the
Surprise of his majesty when, the first time of his bathing, he
had no sooner popped his royal head under water than a band of
music, concealed in a neighbouring machine, struck up "God save
great George our king."
One thing, however, was a little unlucky ,--when the mayor and
burgesses came with the address, they requested leave to kiss
hands: this was graciously accorded; but, the mayor advancing, in
a common way, to take the queen's hand, as he might that of any
lady mayoress, Colonel Gwynn, who stood by, whispered, "You must
kneel, sir!" He found, however, that he took no notice of this
hint, but kissed the queen's hand erect. As he passed him, in
his way back, the colonel Said, "You should have knelt, Sir!"
"Sir," answered the poor mayor, "I cannot."
"Everybody does, sir."
"Sir,--I have a wooden leg!"
Poor man! 'twas such a surprise! and such an excuse as no one
could dispute. But the absurdity of the matter followed--all the
rest did the same; taking the same privilege, by the example,
without the same or any cause!
ROYAL DOINGS IN AND ABOUT WEYMOUTH.
July 15.-The Magnificent, a man-of-war Of 74 guns, commanded by
an old captain of James's (Onslow), is now stationed at the
entrance of the bay, for the security at once and pleasure of the
king; and a fine frigate, the Southampton, Captain Douglas, is
nearer in, and brought for the king to cruise about. Captain
Douglas is nephew to Sir Andrew Snape Hammond, who married a
cousin of our Mr. Crisp. The king and royal party have been to
visit the frigate. Miss Planta and myself went to see the
ceremony from a place called the Look-out,--a beautiful spot.
But I have not much taste for sea receptions and honours: the
firing a salute is SO strange a mode of hospitality and
politeness. . . .
Page 317
Mrs. Gwynn(308) is arrived, and means to spend the royal
season here. She lodges at the hotel just by, and we have met
several times. She is very soft and pleasing, and still as
beautiful as an angel. We have had two or three long tête--
têtes and talked over, with great pleasure, anecdotes Of Our
former mutual acquaintances--Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds,
Mrs. Thrale, Baretti, Miss Reynolds, Miss Palmer, and her old
admirer, Dr. Goldsmith, of whom she relates--as who does not?--a
thousand ridiculous traits.
The queen is reading Mrs. Piozzi's tour(309) to me, instead of my
reading it to her. She loves reading aloud, and in this work
finds me an able commentator. How like herself, how
characteristic is every line--Wild, entertaining, flighty,
inconsistent, and clever!
July 16.-Yesterday we all wen to the theatre. The king has taken
the centre front box for himself, family, and attendants. The
side boxes are too small. The queen ordered places for Miss
Planta and me, which are in the front row of a box next but one
to the royals. Thus, in this case, Our want of rank to be in
their public suite gives us better seats than those high enough
to stand behind them,
Lady Sydney, Lady Courtown's sister, and Miss Townshend, her
daughter, are in the intermediate box, and were very sociable. I
have met them here occasionally, and like them very well.
'Tis a pretty little theatre: but its entertainment was quite in
the barn style a mere medley,--songs, dances, imitations,- and
all very bad. But Lord Chesterfield, who is here, and who seems
chief director, promises all will be better.
This morning the royal party went to Dorchester, and I strolled
upon the sands with Mrs. Gwynn. We overtook a lady, of a very
majestic port and demeanour, who solemnly returned Mrs. Gwynn's
salutation, and then addressed herself to me with similar
gravity. I saw a face I knew, and of very
uncommon beauty; but did not immediately recollect it was Mrs.
Siddons. She is come here, she says, solely for her health : she
has spent some days with Mrs. Gwynn, at General Harcourt's. Her
husband was with her, and a sweet child. I wished to have tried
if her solemnity would have worn away
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by length of conversation ; but I was obliged to hasten home.
But my dearest Fredy's opinion, joined to that of my Sister
Esther, satisfies me I was a loser by this necessary forbearance.
Sunday, July 26.-Yesterday we wen again to the play, and saw "The
Midnight Hour" and "The Commissary." The latter from the
"Bourgeois Gentilhomme," is comic to convulsion and the burlesque
of Quick and Mrs. Wells united made ne laugh quite
immoderately.(310)
July 29.-We went to the play, and saw Mrs. Siddons in Rosalind.
She looked beautifully, but too large for that shepherd's dress;
and her gaiety sits not naturally upon her,--it seems more like
disguised gravity. I must own my admiration for her confined to
her tragic powers; and there it is raised so high that I feel
mortified, in a degree, to see her so much fainter attempts and
success in comedy.
A PATIENT AUDIENCE.
Monday, Aug. 3.-The whole royal party went to see Lulworth
Castle, intending to be back to dinner, and go to the play at
night, which their majesties had ordered, with Mrs. Siddons to
play Lady Townly.(311) Dinner-time, however, came and passed,
and they arrived not. They went by sea, and the wind proved
contrary; and about seven o'clock a hobby groom was despatched
thither by land, with intelligence that they had only reached
Lulworth Castle at five o'clock. They meant to be certainly back
by eight ; but sent their commands that the farce might be
performed first, and the play wait them.
The manager repeated this to the audience,--already waiting and
wearied but a loud applause testified their agreeability to
whatever could be proposed. The farce, however, was much sooner
over than the passage from Lulworth Castle. It was ten o'clock
when they landed! And all this time the audience--spectators
rather--quietly waited!
They landed, just by the theatre, and went to the house of Lady
Pembroke, who is now here in attendance upon the queen : and
there they Sent home for the king's page, with
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a wig, etc.; and the queen's wardrobe woman, with similar
decorations; and a message to Miss Planta and me, that we might
go at once to the theatre.
We obeyed; and soon after they appeared, and were received with
the most violent gusts of joy and huzzas, even from the galleries
over their heads, whose patience had not the reward of seeing
them at last. Is not this a charming trait of provincial
popularity?
Mrs. Siddons, in her looks, and the tragic part, was exquisite.
A FATIGUING BUT PLEASANT DAY.
Aug. 4.-To-day all the royals went to Sherborne Castle. My day
being perfectly at liberty, Mrs. Gwynn stayed and spent it with
me. The weather was beautiful; the sea-breezes here keep off
intense heat in the warmest season. We walked first to see the
shrubbery and plantation of a lady, Mrs. B--, who has a very
pretty house about a mile and a half out of the town. Here we
rested, and regaled ourselves with sweet flowers, and then
proceeded to the old castle,-its ruins rather,- which we most
completely examined, not leaving one stone' untrod, except such
as must have precipitated us into the sea. This castle is built
almost in the sea, upon a perpendicular rock, and its situation,
therefore, is nobly bold and striking. It is little more now
than walls, and a few little winding staircases at its four
corners.
I had not imagined my beautiful companion could have taken so
much pleasure from an excursion so romantic and ,lonely ; but she
enjoyed it very much, clambered about as unaffectedly as if she
had lived in rural scenes all her life, and left nothing
unexamined.
We then prowled along the sands at the foot of the adjoining
rocks, and picked up sea-weeds and shells - but I do not think
they were such as to drive Sir Ashton Lever,(312) or the Museum
keepers, to despair! We had the queen's two little dogs, Badine
and Phillis, for our guards and associates. We returned home to
a very late tea, thoroughly tired, but very much pleased. To me
it was the only rural excursion I had taken for more than three
years.
Page 320
The royal party came not home till past eleven o'clock. The
queen was much delighted with Sherborne Castle, which abounds
with regal curiosities, honourably acquired by the family.
LULWORTH CASTLE.
Aug. 8.--To-day we went to Lulworth Castle; but not with Mrs.
Gwynn. Her majesty ordered our royal coach and four, and
directed me to take the two De Lucs.
Lulworth Castle is beautifully situated, with a near and noble
view of the sea, It has a spacious and very fine park, and
commands a great extent of prospect. It is the property of Mr.
Weld, a Roman Catholic, whose eldest brother was first husband of
Mrs. Fitzherbert.(313) A singular circumstance, that their
majesties should visit a house in which, so few years ago, she
might have received them.
There is in it a Roman Catholic chapel that is truly elegant,--a
Pantheon in miniature,--and ornamented with immense expense and
richness. The altar is all of finest variegated marbles, and
precious stones are glittering from every angle. The priests'
vestments, which are very superb, and all the sacerdotal array,
were shown us as particular favours: and Colonel Goldsworthy
comically said he doubted not they had incense and oblations for
a week to come, by way of purification for our heretical
curiosity.
The castle is built with four turrets. It is not very ancient,
and the inside is completely modern, and fitted up with great
elegance. It abounds in pictures of priests, saints, monks, and
nuns, and is decorated with crosses and Roman Catholic devices
without end. They show one room in which two of our kings have
slept; Charles II. and poor James II.
We returned home to dinner, and in the evening went to the
Page 321
play. Mrs. Siddons performed Mrs. Oakley.(313) What pity thus
to throw away her talents ! but the queen dislikes tragedy, and
the honour to play before the royal family blinds her to the
little credit acquired by playing comedy.
THE ROYAL PARTY AT THE ASSEMBLY Rooms.
Sunday, Aug 9.-The king had a council yesterday, which brought
most of the great officers of state to Weymouth.
In the evening, her majesty desired Miss Planta and me to go to
the rooms, whither they commonly go themselves on Sunday
evenings, and, after looking round them, and speaking where they
choose, they retire to tea in an inner apartment with their own
party, but leave the door wide open, both to see and be seen.
The rooms are convenient and spacious : we found them very full.
As soon as the royal party came, a circle was formed, and they
moved round it, just as before the ball at St. James's, the king
one way with his chamberlain, the new-made Marquis of Salisbury,
and the queen the other with the princesses, Lady Courtown, etc.
The rest of the attendants planted themselves round in the
circle.
I had now the pleasure, for the first time, to see Mr. Pitt but
his appearance is his least recommendation ; it is neither noble
nor expressive. Lord Chatham, the Duke of Richmond, Mr.
Villiers, Lord Delawarr, etc., were in the circle, and spoken to
a long time each.
A JOURNEY To EXETER AND SALTRAM.
Thursday, Aug. 13.-We began our Western tour. We all went in the
same order as we set out from Windsor. We arrived at Exeter to a
very late dinner. We were lodged at the Deanery; and Dr.
Buller, the dean, desired a conference with me, for we came
first, leaving the royals at Sir George Young's. He was very
civil, and in highest glee: I had never seen him before; but he
told me he introduced himself, by this opportunity, at the
express desire of Mrs. Chapone and Mrs. Castle, who were both his
relations, as well as of Dr. Warton. I was glad to hear myself
yet remembered by them.
The crowds, the rejoicings, the hallooing, and singing, and
garlanding, and decorating of all the inhabitants of this old
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city, and of all the country through which we passed, made the
journey quite charming : such happy loyalty as beamed from all
ranks and descriptions of men carried close to the heart in
sympathetic joy.
We passed all the next day at the Deanery, which was insufficient
to our party, that not only the gentlemen, one an(l all, lodged
at the hotel, but even Lady Courtown and the two Lady
Waldegraves. I saw nothing of any of them while we stayed at
Exeter. I strolled with Miss Planta about the town, which is
populous and busy enough, but close and ugly. The principal
parade for company, however, takes in a fine view of the country;
and the cathedral is old and curious.
The next morning, Saturday the 15th, we quitted Exeter, in which
there had been one constant mob surrounding the Deanery from the
moment of our entrance. We proceeded through a country the most
fertile, varied, rural, and delightful, in England, till we came
to the end of our aim, Saltram. We passed through such beautiful
villages, and so animated a concourse of people, that the whole
journey proved truly delectable. Arches of flowers were-erected
for the royal family to pass under at almost every town, with
various loyal devices, expressive of their satisfaction in this
circuit. How happy must have been the king!-how deservedly ! The
greatest conqueror could never pass through his dominions with
fuller acclamations of joy from his devoted subjects than George
III. experienced, simply from having won their love by the even
tenor of an unspotted life, which, at length, has vanquished all
the hearts of all his subjects.
Our entrance at Saltram was, personally to Miss Planta and me,
very disagreeable: we followed immediately after the royals and
equerries and so many of the neighbouring gentry, the officers,
etc., were assembled to receive them, that we had to make our way
through a crowd of starers the most tremendous, while the royals
all stood at the windows, and the other attendants in the hall.
The house is one of the most magnificent in the kingdom. It
accommodated us all, even to every footman, without by any means
filling the whole. The state apartments on the ground floor are
superb, hung with crimson damask, and ornamented with pictures,
some few of the Spanish school, the rest by Sir Joshua Reynolds,
Angelica, and some few by other artists.
Its view is noble; it extends to Plymouth, Mount-Edge-
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cumbe, and the neighbouring fine country. The sea at times fills
up a part of the domain almost close to the house, and then its
prospect is Complete.
MAY "ONE" COME IN?
Sunday, Aug. 16.-Lord Courtown brought me a very obliging message
from Lady Mount-Edgecumbe, who had been here at noon to kiss
hands, on becoming a countess from a baroness. She sent to
invite me to see her place, and contrive to dine and spend the
day there. Her majesty approves the Mount-Edgecumbe invitation.
Aug. 18.-This morning the royals were all at a grand naval
review. I spent the time very serenely in my favourite wood,
which abounds in seats of all sorts - and then I took a fountain
Pen, and wrote my rough journal for copying to my dear
Sorelle.(314)
In the evening, Lord Courtown, opening my parlour door, called
out, "May one come in?"
"May one?" exclaimed Colonel Goldsworthy; "may two, may
three,--may four?--I like your one, indeed!"
And in they all entered, and remained in sociable conversation
till they were all called, late, to cards.
AN EXCURSION To PLYMOUTH DOCKYARD.
Aug. 19.-Again this morning was spent by the royals at Plymouth
dock--by me in strolls round the house. The wood here is truly
enchanting--the paths on the slant down to the water resemble
those of sweet Norbury park.
The tea, also, was too much the same to be worth detailing. I
will only mention a speech which could not but divert me, of Mr.
Alberts, the queen's page. He said nobody dared represent to the
king the danger of his present continual exertion in this hot
weather,--"unless it is Mr. Fairly," he added, "who can say
anything, in his genteel roundabout way."
Aug. 21.-To-day the royals went to Mount-Edgecumbe, and her
majesty had commissioned Lady Courtown to arrange a plan for Miss
Planta and me to see Plymouth Dock. According, therefore, to her
ladyship's directions, we set off for that place, and, after a
dull drive of about five miles, arrived at the house of the
commissioner, Admiral La Forey. Here
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Mrs. La Forey and her daughters were prepared to expect us, and
take the trouble of entertaining us for the day.
Three large and populous towns, Plymouth, Stockton, and
Dock,(315) nearly join each other. Plymouth is long,
dirty, ill built, and wholly unornamented with any edifice worth
notice. Stockton is rather neater,-nothing more. Dock
runs higher and Is newer, and looks far cleaner and more
habitable. The commissioner's is the best-situated
house in Dock: it is opposite a handsome quay, on an arm of the
sea, with a pretty paved walk, or terrace, before the house,
which seems used as a mall by the inhabitants, and is stored with
naval offices innumerable.
The two ladies received us very pleasantly. Mrs. La Forey Is well
bred, in the formal way ; but her eldest daughter, Mrs. Molloy,
is quite free from stiffness, yet perfectly obliging, very easy,
very modest, and very engaging, and, when dressed for a ball in
the evening, very handsome. She does not become a
déshabille, but cannot look otherwise than pleasing and
agreeable, from her manners and countenance.
Captain Molloy, her husband, was gone to attend in the naval
procession that conducted the royals to Mount-Edgecumbe, where he
expected to dine ; but he had left a younger officer, Lieutenant
Gregory, to do the honours of the naval show to us.
The commissioner himself is yet more formal than his lady, but
equally civil. An unmarried daughter appeared next, who seems
sensible and good humoured, but very plain.
We sallied forth to the dockyard, with these two daughters, and
Lieutenant Gregory, a very pleasing and well-bred young officer.
How often I wished my dear James had happened to be here, in any
employment, at this time!
The dockyard you will dispense with my describing. It is a noble
and tremendous sight, and we were shown it with every advantage
of explanation. It was a sort of sighing satisfaction to
see such numerous stores of war's alarms !-ropes, sails, masts,
anchors,--and all in the finest symmetry, divided and subdivided,
as if placed only for show, The neatness and exactness of all the
arrangement of those stores for tempest, filled me with
admiration; so did the whole scene--though not with pleasure.
All assurances, however well to be depended upon, of safety, are
but so many indications of danger.
Page 325
While we were seeing the anchor business,--which seemed
performed by Vulcanic demons, so black they looked, so savage was
their howl in striking the red-hot iron, and so coarse and slight
their attire,--we were saluted with three cheers, from the
accidental entrance of Lord Stopford, Lord Courtown's son, and
Mr. Townshend, his nephew, a son of Lord Sydney, just made a lord
of the Admiralty. And the sound, in those black regions, where
all the light was red-hot fire, had a Very fine demoniac effect.
In beating the anchor they all strike at the same instant, giving
about three quick strokes to one slow stroke; and were they not
to time them with the most perfect conformity, they must
inevitably knock out one another's brains. The sight of this
apparently continual danger gave to the whole the appearance of
some wild rite performed from motives of superstition in some
uncivilised country.
While we were yet ]it the dockyard we were joined by two
sea-captains, Captain Molloy and Captain Duckworth. Captain
Molloy is a sensible and agreeable man, but somewhat haughty, and
of conscious consequence. Captain Duckworth is both sensible and
amiable in his style of conversation, and has a most perfect and
kind openness of manner and countenance; but he greatly amused me
by letting me see how much I amused him. I never surprised him
looking near me, without seeing on his face so irresistible a
simper, that I expected him every moment to break forth; never
even trying to keep a grave face, except when I looked at him in
full front. I found he knew "Burney, of the Bristol," as he
called our James, and I named and conversed about him by every
opportunity. .
A VISIT TO A SEVENTY-FOUR.
Captain Molloy invited us, when we had exhausted the show on
land, to see his ship. I dislike going anywhere beyond the reach
of the Humane society, but could not be left without breaking up
the party: this was my first water-excursion, though two had been
proposed to me at Weymouth, which I had begged leave to decline.
All, however, was smooth and calm, and we had the best possible
navigators. We went to the ship in Captain Molloy's large boat,
which was very trim and neat, and had all its rowers new dressed
and smart for royal attendance, as it followed the king in all
his water-excursions.
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The Ship is the Bombay Castle, of seventy-four guns. It had the
Admiralty flag hoisted, as Lord Chatham had held a board there in
the morning. It is a very fine ship, and I was truly edified by
the sight of all its accommodations, ingenuity, utility,
cleanliness, and contrivances. A man-of-war, fitted out and
manned,- is a glorious and a fearful sight!
In going over the ship we came to the midshipmen's mess, and
those young officers were at dinner, but we were taken in: they
were lighted by a few candles fastened to the wall in sockets.
Involuntarily I exclaimed, "Dining by candle-light at noon-day!"
A midshipman, starting forward, said, "Yes', ma'am, and Admiral
Lord Hood did the same for seven years following!"
I liked his spirit so much that I turned to him, and said I was
very glad they looked forward to such an example, for I had a
brother in the service, which gave me a warm interest in its
prosperity. This made the midshipman so much my friend, that we
entered into a detailed discourse upon the accommodations of
their cabin, mess, etc., and various other matters. I liked him
much, though I know not his name; but my constant Captain
Duckworth kept me again wholly to his own cicerone-ing, when I
turned out of the cabin.
A little, however, he was mortified to find me a coward upon the
water. I assured him he should cure me if he could convince me
there was no reason for fear. He would not allow of any, but
could not disprove it.
"Tell me," I said, "and honestly,--should we be overturned in the
boat while out at sea, what would prevent our being drowned?" He
would not suppose such an accident possible.
I pressed him, however, upon the possibility it might happen once
in a century, and he could not help laughing, and answered, "O,
we should pick you all up!" --I desired to know by what means.
"Instruments," he said. I forced him, after a long and comic
resistance, to show me them. Good heaven! they were
three-pronged iron forks,--very tridents of Neptune!
I exclaimed with great horror, "These!---why, they would tear the
body to pieces!"
"O," answered he calmly, "one must not think of legs and arms
when life is in danger."
I would not, however, under such protection, refuse sailing round
Mount-Edgecumbe, which we did in Captain Molloy's boat, and just
at the time when the royals, in sundry garden-
Page 327
chairs, were driving about the place. It was a beautiful view
the situation is delightful. But Captain Molloy was not in the
best harmony with its owners, as they had disappointed his
expectations of an Invitation to dinner.
A DAY AT MOUNT-EDGECUMBE.
Aug. 24.-To-day the royals went to Marystow, Colonel Heywood's,
and Miss Planta and myself to Mount-Edgecumbe. The queen had
desired me to take Miss Planta, and I had written to prepare Lady
Mount-Edgecumbe for a companion.
We went in a chaise to the ferry, and thence in a boat. I did
not like this part of the business, for we had no pilot we knew,
nor any one to direct us. They would hardly believe, at
Mount-Edgecumbe, we had adventured in so unguarded a manner: but
our superior is too high to discover difficulties, or know common
precautions ; and we fare, therefore, considerably worse in all
these excursions, from belonging to crowned heads, than we should
do in our own private stations, if visiting at any part of the
kingdom.
Safe, however, though not pleasantly, we arrived on the opposite
shore ; when we found a gardener and a very commodious
garden-chair waiting for us. We drove through a sweet park to
the house, at the gate of which stood Lord and Lady
Mount-Edgecumbe, who told us that they had just heard an
intention of their majesties to sail the next day up the River
Tamer, and therefore they thought it their duty to hasten off to
a seat they have near its banks, Coteil, with refreshments and
accommodations, in case they should be honoured with a visit to
see the place, which was very ancient and curious. They should
leave Lord Valletort to do the honours, and expressed much civil
regret in the circumstance: but the distance was too great to
admit of the journey, over bad roads, if they deferred it till
after dinner.
We then proceeded, in the chair, to see the place: it is truly
noble; but I shall enter into no description from want of time:
take a list simply of its particular points. The sea, in some
places, shows itself in its whole vast and unlimited expanse; at
others, the jutting land renders it merely a beautiful basin or
canal: the borders down to the sea are in some parts flourishing
with the finest evergreens and most vivid verdure, and in others
are barren, rocky, and perilous. In one moment you might suppose
yourself cast on a desert island,
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and the next find yourself in the most fertile and luxurious
country. In different views we were shown Cawsand bay, the
Hamoaze, the rocks called "the Maker," etc.,--Dartmoor hills,
Plymouth, the dockyard, Saltram, and St. George's channel.
Several noble ships, manned and commissioned -were in the Hamoaze
amongst them our Weymouth friends' the Magnificent and
Southampton.
A very beautiful flower-garden is enclosed in one part of the
grounds ; and huts, seats, and ornaments in general, were well
adapted to the scenery of the place. A seat is consecrated to
Mrs. Damer,(316) with an acrostic on her name by Lord Valletort.
It is surprising to see the state of vegetation at this place, so
close to the main. Myrtles, pomegranates, everg.reens, and
flowering shrubs, all thrive, and stand the cold blast, when
planted in a southern aspect, as safely as in an inland country.
As it is a peninsula, it has all aspects, and the plantations and
dispositions of the ground are admirably and skilfully assorted
to them.
The great open view, however, disappointed me : the towns it
shows have no prominent features, the country is as flat as it is
extensive, and the various branches of the sea which run into it
give, upon their retreat, a marshy, muddy, unpleasant appearance.
There is, besides, a want of some one striking object to arrest
the eye, and fix the attention, which wearies from the general
glare. Points, however, there are, both of the sublime and
beautiful, that merit all the fame which this noble place has
acquired.
In our tour around it we met Lord Stopford, Mr. Townshend, and
Captain Douglas ; and heard a tremendous account of the rage of
the sea-captains, on being disappointed of a dinner at the royal
visit to Mount-Edgecumbe.
We did not quit these fine grounds till near dinner-time. The
housekeeper then showed us the house, and a set of apartments
newly fitted up for the royals, had they chosen to sleep at
Mount-Edgecumbe. The house is old, and seems pleasant and
convenient.
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In a very pretty circular parlour, which had the appearance of
being the chief living room, I saw amongst a small collection of
books, "Cecilia." I immediately laid a wager with myself the
first volume would open upon Pacchierotti; and I won it very
honestly, though I never expect to be paid it. The chapter, "An
Opera Rehearsal," was so well read, the leaves always flew apart
to display it.
The library is an exceeding good room, and seems charmingly
furnished. Here Lord Valletort received us. His lady was
confined to her room by indisposition. He is a most neat little
beau, and his face has the roses and lilies as finely blended as
that of his pretty young wife. He was extremely civil and
attentive, and appears to be really amiable in his disposition.
Mr. Brett, a plain, sensible, conversible man, who has an estate
in the neighbourhood, dined with us; and a young Frenchman. The
dinner was very cheerful: my lord, at the head of the table,
looked only like his lady in a riding-dress. However, he
received one mortifying trial of his temper - he had sent to
request sailing up the Tamer next day with Sir Richard Bickerton;
and he had a blunt refusal, in a note, during our repast. Not an
officer in the fleet would accommodate him; their resentment of
the dinner slight is quite vehement.
We returned home the same way we came; the good-natured little
lord, and Mr. Brett also, quite shocked we had no better guard or
care taken of us.
MR. FAIRLY ON A COURT LIFE.
Weymouth, Sunday, Sept. 6.-This evening, the royals and their
train all went again to the rooms to drink their tea. Miss
Planta and myself were taking ours quietly together, and I was
finishing a charming sermon of Blair while she was running over
some old newspapers, when, suddenly, but very gently, the
room-door was opened, and then I heard, "Will Miss Burney permit
me to come in, and give me a dish of tea?" 'Twas Mr. Fairly.
He said we were to go on Monday se'nnight to Lord Bath's, on
Wednesday to Lord Aylesbury's, and on Friday to return to
Windsor. He was himself to be discharged some days sooner, as he
should not be wanted on the road. He said many things relative -
to Court lives and situations: with
respect, deference, and regard invariable, mentioned the leading
individuals ; but said nothing could be so weak as to
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look there, in such stations, for such impossibilities as
sympathy, friendship, or cordiality ! And he finished with
saying, "People forget themselves who look for them!"
Such, however, is not my feeling ; and I am satisfied he has met
with some unexpected coldness. Miss Planta being present, he
explained only in generals.
A BRIEF SOJOURN AT LONGLEAT.
Monday, Sept. 14.-We all left Weymouth. All possible honours
were paid the king on his departure; lords, ladies, and sea-
officers, lined the way that he passed, the guns of the
Magnificent and Southampton fired the parting salute, and the
ships were under sail.
We all set out as before, but parted on the road. The royals
went to breakfast at Redlinch, the seat of Lord Ilchester, where
Mr, Fairly(317) was in waiting for them, and thence proceeded to
a collation at Sherborne Castle, whither he was to accompany
them, and then resign his present attendance, which has been long
and troublesome and irksome, I am sure.
Miss Planta and myself proceeded to Longleat, the seat of the
Marquis of Bath, late Lord Weymouth; where we were all to dine,
sleep, and spend the following day and night. Longleat was
formerly the dwelling of the Earl of Lansdowne, uncle to Mrs.
Delany; and here, at this seat, that heartless uncle, to promote
some political views, sacrificed his incomparable niece, at the
age of seventeen, marrying her to an unwieldly, uncultivated,
country esquire, near sixty years of age, and scarce ever sober--
his name Pendarves.
With how sad an awe, in recollecting her submissive unhappiness,
did I enter these doors!--and with what indignant hatred did I
look at the portrait of the unfeeling earl, to whom her gentle
repugnance, shown by almost incessant tears, was thrown away, as
if she, her person, and her existence were nothing in the scale,
where the disposition of a few boroughs opposed them! Yet was
this the famous Granville--the poet, the fine gentleman, the
statesman, the friend and patron of Pope, of whom he wrote--
"What Muse for Granville can refuse to sing?"
Mine, I am sure, for one.
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Lady Bath showed us our rooms, to which we repaired immediately,
to dress before the arrival of the royals.
We dined with the gentlemen, all but the marquis, who was
admitted, in his own house, to dine with the king and queen, as
were all the ladies of his family. Lord Weymouth, the eldest
son, was our president; and two of his brothers, Lords George and
John, with Lord Courtown and the two colonels, made the party.
The Weymouths, Thynnes rather, are silent, and we had but little
talk or entertainment.
The house is very magnificent, and of in immense magnitude. It
seems much out of repair, and by no means cheerful or
comfortable. Gloomy grandeur seems the proper epithet for the
building and its fitting-up. It had been designed for a
monastery, and as such was nearly completed when Henry VIII.
dissolved those seminaries. It was finished as a- dwelling-house
in the reign of his son, by one of the Thynnes, who
was knighted in a field of battle by the protector
Somerset.(318)
Many things in the house, and many queer old portraits, afforded
me matter of Speculation, and would have filled up more time than
I had to bestow. There are portraits of Jane Shore and Fair
Rosamond, which have some marks of originality, being miserable
daubs, yet from evidently beautiful subjects. Arabella Stuart is
also at full length, and King Charleses and Jameses in abundance,
with their queens, brethren, and cousins. There are galleries in
this house of the dimensions of college halls.
The state rooms on the ground floor are very handsome but the
queer antique little old corners, cells, recesses, "passages that
lead to nothing," unexpected openings, and abrupt stoppages, with
the quaint devices of various old-fashioned ornaments, amused me
the most.
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My bed-room was furnished with crimson velvet, bed included, yet
so high, though only the second story, that it made me giddy to
look into the park, and tired to wind up the flight of stairs.
It was formerly the favourite room, the housekeeper told me, of
Bishop Ken, who put on his shroud in it before he died. Had I
fancied I had seen his ghost, I might have screamed my voice
away, unheard by any assistant to lay it; for so far was I from
the rest of the habitable part of the mansion, that not the lungs
of Mr. Bruce could have availed me.(319)
The park is noble and spacious. It was filled with country
folks, permitted to enter that they might see their sovereigns,
and it looked as gay without as it seemed gloomy within. The
people were dressed in their best, as if they came to a fair ;
and such shouts and hallooings ensued, whenever the king appeared
at a window, that the whole building rang again with the
vibration. Nothing upon earth can be more gratifying than the
sight of this dear and excellent king thus loved and received by
all descriptions of his subjects.
TOTTENHAM COURT: RETURN TO WINDSOR.
Sept. 16.-We set out, amidst the acclamations of a multitude,
from Longleat for Tottenham park, the seat of Lord Aylesbury.
The park is of great extent and moderate beauty. The house is
very well.
We had only our own party, the three gentlemen, at dinner and
breakfast. These gentlemen only dine with the king when he keeps
house, and keeps it incog. himself. At Tottenham park, only my
Lord Aylesbury, as master of the house, was admitted. He and his
lady were both extremely desirous to make all their guests
comfortable ; and Lady Aylesbury very politely offered me the use
of her own collection of books. But I found, at the top of the
house, a very large old library, in which there were sundry
uncommon and curious old English tracts, that afforded me much
entertainment. 'Tis a library of long standing.
Here are many original portraits also, that offer enough for
speculation. A "Bloody Mary," by Sir Anthony More, which I saw
with much curiosity, and liked better than I expected. The
beautiful Duchesses of Cleveland and Portsmouth, I fancy
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by Kneller; but we had no cicerone. A very fine picture of a
lady in black, that I can credit to be Vandyke, but who else can
I know not. Several portraits by Sir Peter Lely, extremely soft
and pleasing, and of subjects uncommonly beautiful; many by Sir
Godfrey Kneller, well enough; and many more by Sir Something
Thornhill,(320) very thick and heavy.
The good lord of the mansion put up a new bed for the king and
queen that cost him nine hundred pounds.
Two things I heard here with concern-that my godmother, Mrs.
Greville, was dead; and that poor Sir Joshua Reynolds had lost
the sight of one of his eyes.(321)
Sept. 18.-We left Tottenham Court, and returned to Windsor. The
royals hastened to the younger princesses, and I to Mrs.
Schwellenberg. I was civilly received, however. But deadly dead
sunk my heart as I entered her apartment.
The next day I had a visit from my dear brother Charles full of
business, letters, etc. I rejoiced to see him, and to confab
over all his affairs, plans, and visions, more at full length
than for a long time past. I was forced to introduce him to Mrs.
Schwellenberg, and he flourished away successfully enough; but it
was very vexatious, as he had matters innumerable for discussion.
(305) The palace of Kew.-ED.
(306) See ante, p. 44.-ED.
(307) The Duke of Clarence, third son of George III.; afterwards
William IV.-ED.
(308) The Jessamy Bride." See ante, vol. i, p. 111.-ED.
(309) "Observations and Reflections made in the course of a
Journey through France, Italy, and Germany," by published in
1789.
(310) "The Midnight Hour," a comedy by Mrs. Inchbald, well known
as the authoress of "A Simple Story," and "Nature and Art," was
originally produced at Covent Garden, May 22, 1787. "The
Commissary," a comedy by Samuel Foote, partly taken from "Le
Bourgeois Gentilhomme," was first performed at the Haymarket in
June, 1765. Mr. Quick and Mrs. Wells were popular comedians of
the time.-ED.
(311) In "The Provoked Husband," by Vanbrugh and Cibber.-ED.
(312) Sir Ashton Lever was noted for his extensive and valuable
collection of objects of natural history. In 1775 he opened a
museum in Leicester Square, in which his collection was shown to
the public; but ten years later he was compelled to dispose of
it. The new proprietor exhibited the collection for some years,
but it was finally sold and dispersed.-ED.
(312) Maria Anne Smythe was born in 1756, and married, in 1775,
Edward Weld of Lulworth Castle. He died within a year, and she
married, in 1778, Thomas Fitzherbert of Swinnerton,
Staffordshire, who died in 1781. In December, 1785, Mrs.
Fitzherbert was privately married to the Prince of Wales. The
marriage was never publicly recognised, and its legality was
perhaps disputable: for by the Act of 1772 the marriage of any
member of the Royal family under the age of twenty-five without
the king's consent, was declared invalid, and at the date of his
marriage with the beautiful Mrs Fitzherbert, the Prince was but
twenty-three years of age. he always treated her as his wife,
however, and she was received in society. She continued to live
with him even after his marriage with the Princess Caroline, and
finally parted from him in 1803, retiring with an allowance of
6,000 pounds a year to Brighton, where she died in 1837.-ED.
(313) A character in Colman's comedy of "The Jealous Wife."-ED.
(314) Sisters--the Italian word.-ED.
(315) Dock is now called Devonport.-ED.
(316) The lady-sculptor, the Hon. Mrs. Damer, daughter of General
Conway and kinswoman of Horace Walpole, who bequeathed to her,
for the term of her life, his villa at Strawberry Hill. Her
performances in sculpture were of no great merit, but were
prodigiously admired by Horace Walpole, who had a notorious
weakness for the works of persons of quality. Mrs. Damer was a
staunch whig, and canvassed Westminster on behalf of Charles Fox
at the election of 1784, in company with the Duchess of
Devonshire and Mrs. Crewe.-ED.
(317) His late wife, it will be remembered, was a daughter of
Lord Ilchester.-ED.
(318) Longleat, in Wiltshire, was never intended for a monastery,
but Was built from a design, it is said, by John of Padua, for
Sir John Thynne, who was knighted by Somerset on the field, after
the battle of Pinkie. Sir John's descendant, Thomas Thynne,
Esq., of Longleat, the wealthy friend of Monmouth, and the "wise
Issachar" of Dryden's "Absalom and Achitophel," was murdered in
his coach in Pall-Mall (February 12, 1682), by the contrivance of
Count Koenigsmark, who was tried for the murder and acquitted,
although his confederates, the actual perpetrators of the crime,
were hanged for it. Thomas Thynne was succeeded in his estates
by his cousin, Sir Thomas Thynne, who was the same year created
Baron Thynne and Viscount Weymouth, titles which have descended
in the family, and to which that of Marquis of Bath has since
been added." (See "Count Koenigsmark and Tom of Ten Thousand," by
H. Vizetelly, London, 1890.)-ED.
(319) James Bruce, the famous African traveller, made the
acquaintance of the Burney family in 1775. He was about seven
feet in height. In her early letters to Mr. Crisp, Fanny calls
him the "man-mountain."-ED.
(320) Sir James Thornhill, the father-in-law of Hogarth.-ED.
(321) "One day, in the month of July, 1789, while finishing the
portrait of the Marchioness of Hereford, he felt a sudden decay
of sight in his left eye. He laid down the pencil, sat a little
while in mute consideration, and never lifted it more. His sight
gradually darkened, and within ten weeks of the first attack his
left eye was wholly blind." (Allan Cunningham.) For some time
after this he attended to his duties as President of the Royal
Academy, and he delivered his last address to the students in
1790. Sir Joshua died in his sixty-ninth year, February 23,
1792-ED.
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