CHAPTER XVII.

The party, after procuring horses from the

Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the

mountains. The difficulties and dangers of the

route. A council held with another band of the

Shoshonees, of whom some account is given. They are

reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for

food. Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the

main body in quest of food, and is hospitably

received by the Pierced-nose Indians. Arrival of the

main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is

held. They resolve to perform the remainder of their

journey in canoes. Sickness of the party. They

descend the Kooskooskee to its junction with Lewis

river, after passing several dangerous rapids. Short

description of the manners and dress of the

Pierced-nose Indians. 435

LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION

UP THE MISSOURI.

CHAP. I.

The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood

river--Description of the town of St. Charles--Osage Woman

river--Gasconade and Osage Rivers described--Character of the

Osage Indians--Curious traditionary account of their Origin--The

party proceed and pass the Mine river--The two Charitons--The

Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of

which are particularly described--They encamp at the mouth of the

river Platte--A particular description of the surrounding

country--The various Creeks, Bays, Islands, Prairies, &c., given

in the course of the route.

On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of the

government of the United States, was early directed towards exploring

and improving the new territory. Accordingly in the summer of the same

year, an expedition was planned by the president for the purpose of

discovering the courses and sources of the Missouri, and the most

convenient water communication thence to the Pacific ocean. His private

secretary captain Meriwether Lewis, and captain William Clarke, both

officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the

command of this enterprize. After receiving the requisite instructions,

captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by captain

Clarke at Louisville, in Kentucky, proceeded to St. Louis, where they

arrived in the month of December. Their original* intention was to pass

the winter at La Charrette, the highest settlement on the Missouri. But

the Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official

account of its transfer to the United States, was obliged by the general

policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the

Spanish territory. They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood river,

on the eastern side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where

they passed the winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary

preparations for setting out early in the Spring, before which the

cession was officially announced. The party consisted of nine young men

from Kentucky, fourteen soldiers of the United States army who

volunteered their services, two French watermen--an interpreter and

hunter--and a black servant belonging to captain Clarke--All these,

except the last, were enlisted to serve as privates during the

expedition, and three sergeants appointed from amongst them by the

captains. In addition to these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers,

and nine watermen to accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan

nation, in order to assist in carrying the stores, or repelling an

attack which was most to be apprehended between Wood river and that

tribe. The necessary stores were subdivided into seven bales, and one

box, containing a small portion of each article in case of accident.

They consisted of a great variety of clothing, working utensils, locks,

flints, powder, ball, and articles of the greatest use. To these were

added fourteen bales and one box of Indian presents, distributed in the

same manner, and composed of richly laced coats and other articles of

dress, medals, flags, knives, and tomahawks for the chiefs--ornaments of

different kinds, particularly beads, lookingglasses, handkerchiefs,

paints, and generally such articles as were deemed best calculated for

the taste of the Indians. The party was to embark on board of three

boats: the first was a keel boat fifty-five feet long, drawing three

feet water, carrying one large squaresail and twenty-two oars, a deck of

ten feet in the bow, and stern formed a forecastle and cabin, while the

middle was covered by lockers, which might be raised so as to form a

breast-work in case of attack. This was accompanied by two perioques or

open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars. Two horses were at

the same time to be led along the banks of the river for the purpose of

bringing home game, or hunting in case of scarcity.

Of the proceedings of this expedition, the following is a succinct and

circumstantial narrative.

All the preparations being completed, we left our encampment on Monday,

May 14th, 1804. This spot is at the mouth of Wood river, a small stream

which empties itself into the Mississippi, opposite to the entrance of

the Missouri. It is situated in latitude 38° 55' 19-6/10" north, and

longitude from Greenwich, 89° 57' 45". On both sides of the Mississippi

the land for two or three miles is rich and level, but gradually swells

into a high pleasant country, with less timber on the western than on

the eastern side, but all susceptible of cultivation. The point which

separates the two rivers on the north, extends for fifteen or twenty

miles, the greater part of which is an open level plain, in which the

people of the neighbourhood cultivate what little grain they raise. Not

being able to set sail before four o'clock P.M., we did not make more

than four miles, and encamped on the first island opposite a small creek

called Cold Water.

May 15. The rain, which had continued yesterday and last night, ceased

this morning. We then proceeded, and after passing two small islands

about ten miles further, stopped for the night at Piper's landing,

opposite another island. The water is here very rapid and the banks

falling in. We found that our boat was too heavily laden in the stern,

in consequence of which she ran on logs three times to-day. It became

necessary to throw the greatest weight on the bow of the boat, a

precaution very necessary in ascending both the Missouri and

Mississippi rivers, in the beds of which, there lie great quantities of

concealed timber.

The next morning we set sail at five o'clock. At the distance of a few

miles, we passed a remarkable large coal hill on the north side, called

by the French La Charbonniere, and arrived at the town of St. Charles.

Here we remained a few days.

St. Charles is a small town on the north bank of the Missouri, about

twenty-one miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. It is

situated in a narrow plain, sufficiently high to protect it from the

annual risings of the river in the month of June, and at the foot of a

range of small hills, which have occasioned its being called Petite

Cote, a name by which it is more known to the French than by that of St.

Charles. One principal street, about a mile in length and running

parallel with the river, divides the town, which is composed of nearly

one hundred small wooden houses, besides a chapel. The inhabitants,

about four hundred and fifty in number, are chiefly descendants from the

French of Canada; and, in their manners, they unite all the careless

gayety, and the amiable hospitality of the best times of France: yet,

like most of their countrymen in America, they are but ill qualified for

the rude life of a frontier; not that they are without talent, for they

possess much natural genius and vivacity; nor that they are destitute of

enterprize, for their hunting excursions are long, laborious, and

hazardous: but their exertions are all desultory; their industry is

without system, and without perseverance. The surrounding country,

therefore, though rich, is not, in general, well cultivated; the

inhabitants chiefly subsisting by hunting and trade with the Indians,

and confine their culture to gardening, in which they excel.

Being joined by captain Lewis, who had been detained by business at St.

Louis, we again set sail on Monday, May 21st, in the afternoon, but were

prevented by wind and rain from going more than about three miles, when

we encamped on the upper point of an island, nearly opposite a creek

which falls in on the south side.

On the 22d we made about eighteen miles, passing several small farms on

the bank of the river, a number of islands, and a large creek on the

south side, called Bonhomme, or Goodman's river. A small number of

emigrants from the United States have settled on the sides of this

creek, which are very fertile. We also passed some high lands, and

encamped, on the north side, near a small creek. Here we met with a camp

of Kickapoo Indians who had left us at St. Charles, with a promise of

procuring us some provisions by the time we overtook them. They now made

us a present of four deer, and we gave them in return two quarts of

whiskey. This tribe reside on the heads of the Kaskaskia and Illinois

river, on the other side of the Mississippi, but occasionally hunt on

the Missouri.

May 23. Two miles from our camp of last night, we reached a river

emptying itself on the north side, called Osage Woman river. It is about

thirty yards wide, and has now a settlement of thirty or forty families

from the United States. About a mile and a half beyond this is a large

cave, on the south side at the foot of cliffs nearby three hundred feet

high, overhanging the water, which becomes very swift at this place. The

cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty feet deep, and twenty

high, it is known by the name of the Tavern, among the traders who have

written their names on the rock, and painted some images which command

the homage of the Indians and French. About a little further we passed a

small creek called Tavern creek, and encamped on the south side of the

river, having gone nine miles.

Early the next morning we ascended a very difficult rapid, called the

Devil's Race Ground, where the current sets for half a mile against some

projecting rocks on the south side. We were less fortunate in attempting

a second place of equal difficulty. Passing near the southern shore, the

bank fell in so fast as to oblige us to cross the river instantly,

between the northern side and a sandbar which is constantly moving and

banking with the violence of the current. The boat struck on it, and

would have upset immediately, if the men had not jumped into the water

and held her, till the sand washed from under her. We encamped on the

south side, having ascended ten miles, and the next day, May 25, passed

on the south side the mouth of Wood river, on the north, two small

creeks and several islands, and stopped for the night at the entrance of

a creek on the north side, called by the French La Charrette, ten miles

from our last encampment, and a little above a small village of the same

name. It consists of seven small houses, and as many poor families who

have fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and form the

last establishment of whites on the Missouri. It rained last night, yet

we found this morning that the river had fallen several inches.

May 26. The wind being favourable we made eighteen miles to-day. We

passed in the morning several islands, the largest of which is Buffaloe

island, separated from the southern side by a small channel which

receives the waters of Buffaloe creek. On the same side is Shepherd's

creek, a little beyond which we encamped on the northern side. The next

day we sailed along a large island called Otter island, on the northern

side, extending nearly ten miles in length, narrow but high in its

situation, and one of the most fertile in the whole river. Between it

and the northern shore, three small creeks, one of which has the same

name with the island, empty themselves. On the southern shore is a creek

twenty yards wide, called Ash creek. In the course of the day we met two

canoes loaded with furs, which had been two months on their route, from

the Mahar nation, residing more than seven hundred miles up the

river--one large raft from the Pawnees on the river Platte, and three

others from the Grand Osage river. At the distance of fifteen miles we

encamped on a willow island, at the entrance of the river Gasconade.

This river falls into the Missouri from the south, one hundred miles

from the Mississippi. Its length is about one hundred and fifty miles in

a course generally northeast through a hilly country. On its banks are a

number of saltpetre caves, and it is believed some mines of lead in the

vicinity. Its width at the mouth is one hundred and fifty-seven yards,

and its depth nineteen feet.

Here we halted for the purpose of hunting and drying our provisions, and

making the necessary celestial observations. This being completed, we

set sail on the 29th at four o'clock, and at four miles distance

encamped on the south-side, above a small creek, called Deer creek. The

next day, 30th, we set out early, and at two miles distant reached a

large cave, on the north, called Montbrun's tavern, after a French

trader of that name, just above a creek called after the same person.

Beyond this is a large island, and at the distance of four miles, Rush

creek coming in from the south, at eleven, Big-muddy river on the north,

about fifty yards wide; three miles further, is Little-muddy river on

the same side, opposite to which we encamped at the mouth of Grindstone

creek. The rain which began last night continued through the day,

accompanied with high wind and some hail. The river has been rising fast

for two days, and the country around appears full of water. Along the

sides of the river to day we observe much timber, the cotton wood, the

sycamore, hickory, white walnut, some grapevines, and rushes--the high

west wind and rain compelled us to remain all the next day, May 31. In

the afternoon a boat came down from the Grand Osage river, bringing a

letter from a person sent to the Osage nation on the Arkansaw river,

which mentioned that the letter announcing the cession of Louisiana was

committed to the flames--that the Indians would not believe that the

Americans were owners of that country, and disregarded St. Louis and its

supplies. The party was occupied in hunting, in the course of which,

they caught in the woods several very large rats. We set sail early the

next morning, June 1st, and at six miles distant passed Bear creek, a

stream of about twenty-five yards width; but the wind being ahead and

the current rapid, we were unable to make more than thirteen miles to

the mouth of the Osage river; where we encamped and remained the

following day, for the purpose of making celestial observations. The

Osage river empties itself into the Missouri, at one hundred and

thirty-three miles distance from the mouth of the latter river. Its

general course is west and west southwest through a rich and level

country. At the junction the Missouri is about eight hundred and

seventy-five yards wide, and the Osage three hundred and ninety-seven.

The low point of junction is in latitude 38° 31' 16", and at a short

distance from it is a high commanding position, whence we enjoyed a

delightful prospect of the country.

The Osage river gives or owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks

at a considerable distance from this place. Their present name however,

seems to have originated from the French traders, for both among

themselves and their neighbours they are called the Wasbashas. They

number between twelve and thirteen hundred warriors, and consist of

three tribes: the Great Osages of about five hundred warriors, living in

a village on the south bank of the river--the Little Osages, of nearly

half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them--and

the Arkansaw band, a colony of Osages, of six hundred warriors, who left

them some years ago, under the command of a chief called the Bigfoot,

and settled on the Vermillion river, a branch of the Arkansaw. In person

the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said

to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in

villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem

less addicted to war, than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of

rifles gives a great superiority. Among the peculiarities of this

people, there is nothing more remarkable than the tradition relative to

their origin. According to universal belief, the founder of the nation

was a snail passing a quiet existence along the banks of the Osage, till

a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the

shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man, but with

the change of his nature, he had not forgotten his native seats on the

Osage, towards which, he immediately bent his way. He was however soon

overtaken by hunger, and fatigue, when happily the Great Spirit

appeared, and giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill and

cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his

original residence, but as he approached the river, he was met by a

beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came

to disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his

own, for he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the

daughter of the beaver came, and having by her entreaties reconciled her

father to this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should

marry the young beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the

river. The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there soon

came the village and the nation of the Wasbasha, or Osages, who have

ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining

from the chace of the beaver, because in killing that animal, they

killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, since the trade

with the whites has rendered beaver skins more valuable, the sanctity of

these maternal relatives has visibly reduced, and the poor animals have

nearly lost all the privileges of kindred.

On the afternoon of June 3, we proceeded, and at three miles distant,

reached a creek called Cupboard creek, from a rock of that appearance

near its entrance. Two miles further we encamped at Moreau creek, a

stream of twenty yards width, on the southern side. The next morning, we

passed at an early hour, Cedar island on the north, so called from the

abundance of the tree of that name; near which is a small creek, named

Nightingale creek, from a bird of that species, who sang for us during

the night. Beyond Cedar island, are some others of a smaller extent, and

at seven miles distance a creek fifteen or twenty yards wide, entering

from the north, and known by the name of Cedar creek. At seven and a

half miles further, we passed on the south side another creek, which we

called Mast creek, from the circumstance of our mast being broken by

running under a concealed tree; a little above is another creek on the

left, one mile beyond which we encamped on the southern shore under high

projecting cliffs. The French had reported that lead ore was to be found

in this place, but on examining the hills, we could discern no

appearance of that mineral. Along the river on the south, is a low land

covered with rushes, and high nettles, and near the mouths of the

creeks, supplied with oak, ash, and walnut timber. On the north the land

is rich and well situated. We made seventeen and a half miles this day.

The river is falling slowly. We continued our route the next morning

early: a small creek called Lead creek, on the south; another on the

north, known to the French by the name of Little Good Woman's creek, and

again Big Rock creek on the south were the only streams we passed this

morning. At eleven o'clock we met a raft made of two canoes joined

together, in which two French traders were descending, from eighty

leagues up the river Kanzas, where they had wintered, and caught great

quantities of beaver, but had lost much of their game by fires from the

prairies. They told us that the Kanzas nation is now hunting buffaloe in

the plains, having passed the last winter in this river. Two miles

further, we reached on the south Little Manitou creek, which takes its

name from a strange figure resembling the bust of a man, with the horns

of a stag, painted on a projecting rock, which may represent some spirit

or deity. Near this is a sandbar extending several miles, which renders

the navigation difficult, and a small creek called Sand creek on the

south, where we stopped for dinner, and gathered wild cresses and tongue

grass from the sandbar. The rapidity of the currents added to our having

broken our mast, prevented our going more than twelve and a half miles.

The scouts and hunters whom we always kept out, report that they have

seen fresh tracks of Indians. The next morning we left our camp, which

was on the south side, opposite to a large island in the middle of the

river, and at five miles reached a creek on the north side, of about

twenty yards wide, called Split Rock creek, from a fissure in the point

of a neighbouring rock. Three miles beyond this, on the south is Saline

river, it is about thirty yards wide, and has its name from the number

of salt licks, and springs, which render its water brackish; the river

is very rapid and the banks falling in. After leaving Saline creek, we

passed one large island and several smaller ones, having made fourteen

miles. The water rose a foot during the last night.

The next day, June 7, we passed at four and a half miles Big Manitou

creek, near which is a limestone rock inlaid with flint of various

colours, and embellished, or at least covered with uncouth paintings of

animals and inscriptions. We landed to examine it, but found the place

occupied by a nest of rattlesnakes, of which we killed three. We also

examined some licks and springs of salt water, two or three miles up

this creek. We then proceeded by some small willow islands, and encamped

at the mouth of Good Woman river on the north. It is about thirty-five

yards wide, and said to be navigable for boats several leagues. The

hunters, who had hitherto given us only deer, brought in this evening

three bears, and had seen some indication of buffaloe. We had come

fourteen miles.

June 8, we saw several small willow islands, and a creek on the south,

near which are a number of deerlicks; at nine miles distance we came to

Mine river. This river, which falls into the Missouri from the south,

is said to be navigable for boats eighty or ninety miles, and is about

seventy yards wide at its mouth. It forks about five or six leagues from

the Missouri, and at the point of junction are some very rich salt

springs; the west branch in particular, is so much impregnated, that,

for twenty miles, the water is not palatable: several branches of the

Manitou and Good Woman are equally tinctured. The French report also,

that lead ore has been found on different parts of the river. We made

several excursions near the river through the low rich country on its

banks, and after dinner went on to the island of Mills, where we

encamped. We met with a party of three hunters from the Sioux river;

they had been out for twelve months, and collected about nine hundred

dollars worth of peltries and furs. We ascended this river twelve miles.

On the 9th, we set out early, and reached a cliff of rocks, called the

Arrow Rock, near to which is a prairie called the Prairies of Arrows,

and Arrow creek, a small stream about eight yards wide, whose source is

in the adjoining prairies on the south. At this cliff the Missouri is

confined within a bed of two hundred yards; and about four miles to the

south east is a large lick and salt spring of great strength. About

three miles further is Blackbird creek on the north side, opposite to

which, is an island and a prairie inclosing a small lake. Five miles

beyond this we encamped on the south side, after making, in the course

of the day, thirteen miles. The land on the north is a high rich plain.

On the south it is also even, of a good quality, and rising from fifty

to one hundred feet.

The next morning, 10th, we passed Deer creek, and at the distance of

five miles, the two rivers called by the French the two Charatons, a

corruption of Thieraton, the first of which is thirty, the second

seventy yards wide, and enter the Missouri together. They are both

navigable for boats: the country through which they pass is broken,

rich, and thickly covered with timber. The Ayauway nation, consisting

of three hundred men, have a village near its head-waters on the river

De Moines. Farther on we passed a large island called _Chicot_ or Stump

Island, and encamped on the south, after making ten miles. A head wind

forced us to remain there all the next day, during which we dried the

meat we had killed, and examined the surrounding country, which consists

of good land, well watered, and supplied with timber: the prairies also

differ from those eastward of the Mississippi, inasmuch as the latter

are generally without any covering except grass, whilst the former

abound with hazel, grapes and other fruits, among which is the Osage

plum of a superior size and quality. On the morning of the 12th, we

passed through difficult places in the river, and reached Plum creek on

the south side. At one o'clock, we met two rafts loaded, the one with

furs, the other with the tallow of buffaloe; they were from the Sioux

nation, and on their way to St. Louis; but we were fortunate enough to

engage one of them, a Mr. Durion, who had lived with that nation more

than twenty years, and was high in their confidence, to accompany us

thither. We made nine miles. On the 13th, we passed at between four and

five miles, a bend of the river, and two creeks on the north, called the

Round Bend creeks. Between these two creeks is the prairie, in which

once stood the ancient village of the Missouris. Of this village there

remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recall this great and

numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about thirty families. They

were driven from their original seats by the invasions of the Sauks and

other Indians from the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village two

hundred of them in one contest, and sought refuge near the Little Osage,

on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies

forced, about thirty years since, both these nations from the banks of

the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an

asylum on the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves

declining. Opposite the plain there was an island and a French fort,

but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations

having probably washed them away, as the willow island which is in the

situation described by Du Pratz, is small and of recent formation. Five

miles from this place is the mouth of Grand River, where we encamped.

This river follows a course nearly south, or south east, and is between

eighty and a hundred yards wide where it enters the Missouri, near a

delightful and rich plain. A racoon, a bear, and some deer were obtained

to day. We proceeded at six o'clock the next morning. The current was so

rapid and the banks on the north falling in so constantly, that we were

obliged to approach the sandbars on the south. These were moving

continually, and formed the worst passage we had seen, and which we

surmounted with much difficulty. We met a trading raft from the Pawnee

nation on the river Platte, and attempted unsuccessfully to engage one

of their party to return with us. At the distance of eight miles, we

came to some high cliffs, called the Snake bluffs, from the number of

that animal in the neighbourhood, and immediately above these bluffs,

Snake creek, about eighteen yards wide, on which we encamped. One of our

hunters, a half Indian, brought us an account of his having to day

passed a small lake, near which a number of deer were feeding, and in

the pond he heard a snake making a guttural noise like a turkey. He

fired his gun, but the noise became louder. He adds, that he has heard

the Indians mention this species of snake, and this story is confirmed

by a Frenchman of our party. All the next day, the river being very

high, the sandbars were so rolling and numerous, and the current so

strong, that we were unable to stem it even with oars added to our

sails; this obliged us to go nearer the banks, which were falling in, so

that we could not make, though the boat was occasionally towed, more

than fourteen miles. We passed several islands and one creek on the

south side, and encamped on the north opposite a beautiful plain, which

extends as far back as the Osage river, and some miles up the Missouri.

In front of our encampment are the remains of an old village of the

Little Osage, situated at some distance from the river, and at the foot

of a small hill. About three miles above them, in view of our camp is

the situation of the old village of the Missouris after they fled from

the Sauks. The inroads of the same tribe compelled the Little Osage to

retire from the Missouri a few years ago, and establish themselves near

the Great Osages. The river, which is here about one mile wide, had

risen in the morning, but fell towards evening. Early this morning, June

16th, we joined the camp of our hunters, who had provided two deer and

two bear, and then passing an island and a prairie on the north covered

with a species of timothy, made our way through bad sandbars and a swift

current, to an encampment for the evening, on the north side, at ten

miles distance. The timber which we examined to day was not sufficiently

strong for oars; the musquitoes and ticks are exceedingly troublesome.

On the 17th, we set out early and having come to a convenient place at

one mile distance, for procuring timber and making oars, we occupied

ourselves in that way on this and the following day. The country on the

north of the river is rich and covered with timber; among which we

procured the ash for oars. At two miles it changes into extensive

prairies, and at seven or eight miles distance becomes higher and

waving. The prairie and high lands on the south commence more

immediately on the river; the whole is well watered and provided with

game, such as deer, elk, and bear. The hunters brought in a fat horse

which was probably lost by some war party--this being the crossing place

for the Sauks, Ayauways, and Sioux, in their excursions against the

Osage.

June 19, the oars being finished, we proceeded under a gentle breeze by

two large and some smaller islands. The sandbars are numerous and so

bad, that at one place we were forced to clear away the driftwood in

order to pass: the water too was so rapid that we were under the

necessity of towing the boat for half a mile round a point of rocks on

the south side. We passed two creeks, one called Tiger creek on the

north, twenty-five yards wide at the extremity of a large island called

Panther Island; the other Tabo creek on the south, fifteen yards wide.

Along the shores are gooseberries and raspberries in great abundance. At

the distance of seventeen and a half miles we encamped on the south,

near a lake about two miles from the river and several in circumference;

and much frequented by deer and all kinds of fowls. On the north the

land is higher and better calculated for farms than that on the south,

which ascends more gradually, but is still rich and pleasant. The

musquitoes and other animals are so troublesome that musquitoe biers or

nets were distributed to the party. The next morning we passed a large

island, opposite to which on the north is a large and beautiful prairie,

called Sauk prairie, the land being fine and well timbered on both sides

the river. Pelicans were seen to day. We made six and three quarter

miles, and encamped at the lower point of a small island, along the

north side of which we proceeded the next day, June 21st, but not

without danger in consequence of the sands and the rapidity of the water

which rose three inches last night. Behind another island come in from

the south two creeks, called Eau, Beau, or Clear Water creeks; on the

north is a very remarkable bend, where the high lands approach the

river, and form an acute angle at the head of a large island produced by

a narrow channel through the point of the bend. We passed several other

islands, and encamped at seven and a half miles on the south.

22d. The river rose during the night four inches. The water is very

rapid and crowded with concealed timber. We passed two large islands and

an extensive prairie on the south, beginning with a rich low land, and

rising to the distance of seventy or eighty feet of rolling clear

country. The thermometer at three o'clock P.M. was at 87°. After coming

ten and a half miles we encamped on the south, opposite a large creek

called Fire Prairie river.

23d. The wind was against us this morning, and became so violent that we

made only three and a half miles, and were obliged to lie to during the

day at a small island. This is separated from the northern side by a

narrow channel which cannot be passed by boats, being choaked by trees

and drifted wood. Directly opposite on the south, is a high commanding

position, more than seventy feet above high water mark, and overlooking

the river which is here of but little width; this spot has many

advantages for a fort, and trading house with the Indians.[A] The river

fell eight inches last night.

[Footnote A: The United States built in September, 1808, a factory and

fort at this spot, which is very convenient for trading with the Osages,

Ayauways and Kanzas.]

The next day, 24th, we passed at eight miles distance, Hay Cabin creek

coming in from the south, about twenty yards wide, and so called from

camps of straw built on it; to the north are some rocks projecting into

the river, and a little beyond them a creek on the same side, called

Charaton Scarty; that is, Charaton like the Otter. We halted, after

making eleven and a half miles, the country on both sides being fine and

interspersed with prairies, in which we now see numerous herds of deer,

pasturing in the plains or feeding on the young willows of the river.

25th. A thick fog detained us till eight o'clock, when we set sail, and

at three miles reached a bank of stone coal on the north, which appeared

to be very abundant: just below it is a creek called after the bank La

Charbonniere. Four miles further, and on the southern side, comes in a

small creek, called La Benite. The prairies here approach the river and

contain many fruits, such as plums, raspberries, wild apples, and nearer

the river vast quantities of mulberries. Our encampment was at thirteen

miles distance on an island to the north, opposite some hills higher

than usual, and almost one hundred and sixty or one hundred and eighty

feet. 26th. At one mile we passed at the end of a small island, Blue

Water creek, which is about thirty yards wide at its entrance from the

south.[A] Here the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the

current still more so by counter currents or whirls on one side and a

high bank on the other. We passed a small island and a sandbar, where

our tow rope broke twice, and we rowed round with great exertions. We

saw a number of parroquets, and killed some deer; after nine and three

quarter miles we encamped at the upper point of the mouth of the river

Kanzas: here we remained two days, during which we made the necessary

observations, recruited the party, and repaired the boat. The river

Kanzas takes its rise in the plains between the Arkansaw and Platte

rivers, and pursues a course generally east till its junction with the

Missouri which is in latitude 38° 31' 13"; here it is three hundred and

forty and a quarter yards wide, though it is wider a short distance

above the mouth. The Missouri itself is about five hundred yards in

width; the point of union is low and subject to inundations for two

hundred and fifty yards, it then rises a little above high water mark,

and continues so as far back as the hills. On the south of the Kanzas

the hills or highlands come within one mile and a half of the river; on

the north of the Missouri they do not approach nearer than several

miles; but on all sides the country is fine. The comparative specific

gravities of the two rivers is, for the Missouri seventy-eight, the

Kanzas seventy-two degrees; the waters of the latter have a very

disagreeable taste, the former has risen during yesterday and to day

about two feet. On the banks of the Kanzas reside the Indians of the

same name, consisting of two villages, one at about twenty, the other

forty leagues from its mouth, and amounting to about three hundred men.

They once lived twenty-four leagues higher than the Kanzas, on the south

bank of the Missouri, and were then more numerous, but they have been

reduced and banished by the Sauks and Ayauways, who being better

supplied with arms have an advantage over the Kanzas, though the latter

are not less fierce or warlike than themselves. This nation is now

hunting in the plains for the buffaloe which our hunters have seen for

the first time.

[Footnote A: A few miles up the Blue Water Creek are quarries of plaster

of paris, since worked and brought down to St. Louis.]

On the 29th, we set out late in the afternoon, and having passed a

sandbar, near which the boat was almost lost, and a large island on the

north, we encamped at seven and a quarter miles on the same side in the

low lands, where the rushes are so thick that it is troublesome to walk

through them. Early the next morning, 30th, we reached, at five miles

distance, the mouth of a river coming in from the north, and called by

the French, Petite Riviere Platte, or Little Shallow river; it is about

sixty yards wide at its mouth. A few of the party who ascended informed

us, that the lands on both sides are good, and that there are several

falls well calculated for mills; the wind was from the south west, and

the weather oppressively warm, the thermometer standing at 96° above at

three o'clock P.M. One mile beyond this is a small creek on the south,

at five miles from which we encamped on the same side, opposite the

lower point of an island called Diamond island. The land on the north

between the Little Shallow river, and the Missouri is not good and

subject to overflow--on the south it is higher and better timbered.

July 1st. We proceeded along the north side of Diamond island, where a

small creek called Biscuit creek empties itself. One and a half miles

above the island is a large sandbar in the middle of the river, beyond

which we stopped to refresh the men, who suffered very much from the

heat. Here we observed great quantities of grapes and raspberries.

Between one and two miles farther are three islands a creek on the

south known by the French name of Remore. The main current which is now

on the south side of the largest of the three islands, ran three years,

as we were told on the north, and there was then no appearance of the

two smaller islands. At the distance of four and a half miles we reached

the lower point of a cluster of small islands, two large and two small,

called Isles des Pares or Field Islands. Paccaun trees were this day

seen, and large quantities of deer and turkies on the banks. We had

advanced twelve miles.

July 2d. We left our encampment, opposite to which is a high and

beautiful prairie on the southern side, and passed up the south of the

islands, which are high meadows, and a creek on the north called Pare

creek. Here for half an hour the river became covered with drift wood,

which rendered the navigation dangerous, and was probably caused by the

giving way of some sandbar, which had detained the wood. After making

five miles we passed a stream on the south called Turky creek, near a

sandbar, where we could scarcely stem the current with twenty oars, and

all the poles we had. On the north at about two miles further is a large

island called by the Indians, Wau-car-da-war-card-da, or the Bear

Medicine island. Here we landed and replaced our mast, which had been

broken three days ago, by running against a tree, overhanging the river.

Thence we proceeded, and after night stopped on the north side, above

the island, having come eleven and a half miles. Opposite our camp is a

valley, in which was situated an old village of the Kanzas, between two

high points of land, and on the bank of the river. About a mile in the

rear of the village was a small fort, built by the French on an

elevation. There are now no traces of the village, but the situation of

the fort may be recognized by some remains of chimnies, and the general

outline of the fortification, as well as by the fine spring which

supplied it with water. The party, who were stationed here, were

probably cut off by the Indians, as there are no accounts of them.

July 3d. A gentle breeze from the south carried us eleven and a quarter

miles this day, past two islands, one a small willow island, the other

large, and called by the French Isle des Vaches, or Cow island. At the

head of this island, on the northern shore, is a large pond containing

beaver, and fowls of different kinds. After passing a bad sandbar, we

stopped on the south side at an old trading house, which is now

deserted, and half a mile beyond it encamped on the south. The land is

fine along the rivers, and some distance back. We observed the black

walnut and oak, among the timber; and the honey-suckle and the

buck's-eye, with the nuts on them.

The morning of the 4th July was announced by the discharge of our gun.

At one mile we reached the mouth of a bayeau or creek, coming from a

large lake on the north side, which appears as if it had once been the

bed of the river, to which it runs parallel for several miles. The water

of it is clear and supplied by a small creek and several springs, and

the number of goslins which we saw on it, induced us to call it the

Gosling lake. It is about three quarters of a mile wide, and seven or

eight miles long. One of our men was bitten by a snake, but a poultice

of bark and gunpowder was sufficient to cure the wound. At ten and a

quarter miles we reached a creek on the south about twelve yards wide

and coming from an extensive prairie, which approached the borders of

the river. To this creek which had no name, we gave that of Fourth of

July creek; above it is a high mound, where three Indian paths centre,

and from which is a very extensive prospect. After fifteen miles sail we

came to on the north a little above a creek on the southern side, about

thirty yards wide, which we called Independence creek, in honour of the

day, which we could celebrate only by an evening gun, and an additional

gill of whiskey to the men.

The next day, 5th, we crossed over to the south and came along the bank

of an extensive and beautiful prairie, interspersed with copses of

timber, and watered by Independence creek. On this bank formerly stood

the second village of the Kanzas; from the remains it must have been

once a large town. We passed several bad sandbars, and a small creek to

the south, which we called Yellow Ochre creek, from a bank of that

mineral a little above it. The river continues to fall. On the shores

are great quantities of summer and fall grapes, berries and wild roses.

Deer is not so abundant as usual, but there are numerous tracks of elk

around us. We encamped at ten miles distance on the south side under a

high bank, opposite to which was a low land covered with tall rushes,

and some timber.

July 6. We set sail, and at one mile passed a sandbar, three miles

further an island, a prairie to the north, at the distance of four miles

called Reevey's prairie, after a man who was killed there; at which

place the river is confined to a very narrow channel, and by a sandbar

from the south. Four miles beyond is another sandbar terminated by a

small willow island, and forming a very considerable bend in the river

towards the north. The sand of the bar is light, intermixed with small

pebbles and some pit coal. The river falls slowly, and, owing either to

the muddiness of its water, or the extreme heat of the weather, the men

perspire profusely. We encamped on the south having made twelve miles.

The bird called whip-poor-will sat on the boat for some time.

In the morning, July 7th, the rapidity of the water obliged us to draw

the boat along with ropes. At six and three quarter miles, we came to a

sandbar, at a point opposite a fine rich prairie on the north, called

St. Michael's. The prairies of this neighbourhood have the appearance of

distinct farms, divided by narrow strips of woodland, which follow the

borders of the small runs leading to the river. Above this, about a

mile, is a cliff of yellow clay on the north. At four o'clock we passed

a narrow part of the channel, where the water is confined within a bed

of two hundred yards wide, the current running directly against the

southern bank with no sand on the north to confine it or break its

force. We made fourteen miles, and halted on the north, after which we

had a violent gust about seven o'clock. One of the hunters saw in a pond

to the north which we passed yesterday a number of young swans. We saw a

large rat, and killed a wolf. Another of our men had a stroke of the

sun; he was bled, and took a preparation of nitre which relieved him

considerably.

July 8. We set out early, and soon passed a small creek on the north,

which we called Ordway's creek, from our sergeant of that name who had

been sent on shore with the horses, and went up it. On the same side are

three small islands, one of which is the Little Nodawa, and a large

island called the Great Nodawa* extending more than five miles, and

containing seven or eight thousand acres of high good land, rarely

overflowed, and one of the largest islands of the Missouri. It is

separated from the northern shore by a small channel of from forty-five

to eighty yards wide, up which we passed, and found near the western

extremity of the island the mouth of the river Nodawa. This river

persues nearly a southern course, is navigable for boats to some

distance, and about seventy yards wide above the mouth, though not so

wide immediately there, as the mud from the Missouri contracts its

channel. At twelve and a quarter miles, we encamped on the north side,

near the head of Nodawa island, and opposite a smaller one in the middle

of the river. Five of the men were this day sick with violent headache.

The river continues to fall.

July 9th. We passed the island opposite to which we last night encamped,

and saw near the head of it a creek falling in from a pond on the north,

to which we gave the name of Pike pond, from the numbers of that animal

which some of our party saw from the shore. The wind changed at eight

from N.E. to S.W. and brought rain. At six miles we passed the mouth of

Monter's creek on the south, and two miles above a few cabins, where one

of our party had encamped with some Frenchmen about two years ago.

Further on we passed an island on the north, opposite some cliffs on the

south side, near which Loup or Wolf river falls into the Missouri. This

river is about sixty yards wide, it heads near the same sources as the

Kanzas, and is navigable for boats, at some distance up. At fourteen

miles we encamped on the south side.

Tuesday 10th. We proceeded on by a prairie on the upper side of Wolf

river, and at four miles passed a creek fifteen yards wide on the south,

called Pape's creek after a Spaniard of that name, who killed himself

there. At six miles we dined on an island called by the French Isle de

Salomon, or Solomon's island, opposite to which on the south is a

beautiful plain covered with grass, intermixed with wild rye and a kind

of wild potatoe. After making ten miles we stopped for the night on the

northern side, opposite a cliff of yellow clay. The river has neither

risen nor fallen to day. On the north the low land is very extensive,

and covered with vines; on the south, the hills approach nearer the

river, and back of them commence the plains. There are a great many

goslins along the banks.

Wednesday 11th. After three miles sailing we came to a willow island on

the north side, behind which enters a creek called by the Indians

Tarkio. Above this creek on the north the low lands are subject to

overflow, and further back the undergrowth of vines particularly, is so

abundant that they can scarcely be passed. Three miles from the Tarkio

we encamped on a large sand island on the north, immediately opposite

the river Nemahaw.

Thursday 12th. We remained here to day for the purpose of refreshing the

party, and making lunar observations. The Nemahaw empties itself into

the Missouri from the south, and is eighty yards wide at the confluence,

which is in lat. 39° 55' 56". Capt. Clarke ascended it in the perioque

about two miles to the mouth of a small creek on the lower side. On

going ashore he found in the level plain several artificial mounds or

graves, and on the adjoining hills others of a larger size. This

appearance indicates sufficiently the former population of this country;

the mounds being certainly intended as tombs; the Indians of the

Missouri still preserving the custom of interring the dead on high

ground. From the top of the highest mound a delightful prospect

presented itself--the level and extensive meadows watered by the

Nemahaw, and enlivened by the few trees and shrubs skirting the borders

of the river and its tributary streams--the lowland of the Missouri

covered with undulating grass, nearly five feet high, gradually rising

into a second plain, where rich weeds and flowers are interspersed with

copses of the Osage plum; further back are seen small groves of trees;

an abundance of grapes; the wild cherry of the Missouri, resembling our

own, but larger, and growing on a small bush; and the chokecherry, which

we observed for the first time. Some of the grapes gathered to-day are

nearly ripe. On the south of the Nemahaw, and about a quarter of a mile

from its mouth, is a cliff of freestone, in which are various

inscriptions and marks made by the Indians. The sand island where we are

encamped, is covered with the two species of willow, broad and narrow

leaf.

July 13th. We proceeded at sunrise with a fair wind from the south, and

at two miles, passed the mouth of a small river on the north, called Big

Tarkio. A channel from the bed of the Missouri once ran into this river,

and formed an island called St. Joseph's, but the channel is now filled

up, and the island is added to the northern shore. Further on to the

south, is situated an extensive plain, covered with a grass resembling

timothy in its general appearance, except the seed which is like

flaxseed, and also a number of grapevines. At twelve miles, we passed an

island on the north, above which is a large sandbar covered with

willows: and at twenty and a half miles, stopped on a large sandbar, in

the middle of the river opposite a high handsome prairie, which extends

to the hills four or five miles distant, though near the bank the land

is low, and subject to be overflowed. This day was exceedingly fine and

pleasant, a storm of wind and rain from north-northeast, last night,

having cooled the air.

July 14. We had some hard showers of rain before seven o'clock, when we

set out. We had just reached the end of the sand island, and seen the

opposite banks falling in, and so lined with timber that we could not

approach it without danger, when a sudden squall, from the northeast,

struck the boat on the starboard quarter, and would have certainly

dashed her to pieces on the sand island, if the party had not leaped

into the river, and with the aid of the anchor and cable kept her off:

the waves dashing over her for the space of forty minutes; after which,

the river became almost instantaneously calm and smooth. The two

periogues were ahead, in a situation nearly similar, but fortunately no

damage was done to the boats or the loading. The wind having shifted to

the southeast, we came at the distance of two miles, to an inland on the

north, where we dined. One mile above, on the same side of the river, is

a small factory, where a merchant of St. Louis traded with the Ottoes

and Pawnees two years ago. Near this is an extensive lowland, part of

which is overflowed occasionally, the rest is rich and well timbered.

The wind again changed to northwest by north. At seven and a half miles,

we reached lower point of a large island, on the north side. A small

distance above this point, is a river, called by the Maha Indians,

Nishnahbatona. This is a considerable creek, nearly as large as the Mine

river, and runs parallel to the Missouri the greater part of its course,

being fifty yards wide at the mouth. In the prairies or glades, we saw

wild-timothy, lambsquarter, cuckleberries, and on the edges of the

river, summer-grapes, plums, and gooseberries. We also saw to-day, for

the first time, some elk, at which some of the party shot, but at too

great a distance. We encamped on the north side of the island, a little

above Nishnahbatona, having made nine miles. The river fell a little.

July 15. A thick fog prevented our leaving the encampment before seven.

At about four miles, we reached the extremity of the large island, and

crossing to the south, at the distance of seven miles, arrived at the

Little Nemaha, a small river from the south, forty yards wide a little

above its mouth, but contracting, as do almost all the waters emptying

into the Missouri, at its confluence. At nine and three quarter miles,

we encamped on a woody point, on the south. Along the southern bank, is

a rich lowland covered with peavine, and rich weeds, and watered by

small streams rising in the adjoining prairies. They too, are rich, and

though with abundance of grass, have no timber except what grows near

the water; interspersed through both are grapevines, plums of two kinds,

two species of wild-cherries, hazlenuts, and gooseberries. On the south

there is one unbroken plain; on the north the river is skirted with some

timber, behind which the plain extends four or five miles to the hills,

which seem to have little wood.

July 16. We continued our route between a large island opposite to our

last night's encampment, and an extensive prairie on the south. About

six miles, we came to another large island, called Fairsun island, on

the same side; above which is a spot, where about twenty acres of the

hill have fallen into the river. Near this, is a cliff of sandstone for

two miles, which is much frequented by birds. At this place the river is

about one mile wide, but not deep; as the timber, or sawyers, may be

seen, scattered across the whole of its bottom. At twenty miles

distance, we saw on the south, an island called by the French, l'Isle

Chance, or Bald island, opposite to a large prairie, which we called

Baldpated prairie, from a ridge of naked hills which bound it, running

parallel with the river as far as we could see, and from three to six

miles distance. To the south the hills touch the river. We encamped a

quarter of a mile beyond this, in a point of woods on the north side.

The river continues to fall.

Tuesday, July 17. We remained here this day, in order to make

observations and correct the chronometer, which ran down on Sunday. The

latitude we found to be 40° 27' 5"4/10. The observation of the time

proved our chronometer too slow, by 6' 51"6/10. The highlands bear from

our camp, north 25° west, up the river. Captain Lewis rode up the

country, and saw the Nishnahbatona, about ten or twelve miles from its

mouth, at a place not more than three hundred yards from the Missouri,

and a little above our camp. It then passes near the foot of the

Baldhills, and is at least six feet below the level of the Missouri. On

its banks are the oak, walnut, and mulberry. The common current of the

Missouri, taken with the log, is 50 fathoms in 40", at some places, and

even 20".

Wednesday, July 18. The morning was fair, and a gentle wind from

southeast by south, carried us along between the prairie on the north,

and Bald island to the south: opposite the middle of which, the

Nishnahbatona approaches the nearest to the Missouri. The current here

ran fifty fathoms in 41". At thirteen and a half miles, we reached an

island on the north, near to which the banks overflow; while on the

south, the hills project over the river and form high cliffs. At one

point a part of the cliff, nearly three quarters of a mile in length,

and about two hundred feet in height, has fallen into the river. It is

composed chiefly of sandstone intermixed with an iron ore of bad

quality; near the bottom is a soft slatestone with pebbles. We passed

several bad sandbars in the course of the day, and made eighteen miles,

and encamped on the south, opposite to the lower point of the Oven

islands. The country around is generally divided into prairies, with

little timber, except on low points, islands, and near creeks, and that

consisting of cottonwood, mulberry, elm, and sycamore. The river falls

fast. An Indian dog came to the bank; he appeared to have been lost and

was nearly starved: we gave him some food, but he would not follow us.

Thursday, July 19. The Oven islands are small, and two in number; one

near the south shore, the other in the middle of the river. Opposite to

them is the prairie, called Terrien's Oven, from a trader of that name.

At four and a half miles, we reached some high cliffs of a yellow earth,

on the south, near which are two beautiful runs of water, rising in the

adjacent prairies, and one of them with a deerlick, about two hundred

yards from its mouth. In this neighbourhood we observed some iron ore in

the bank. At two and a half miles above the runs, a large portion of the

hill, for nearly three quarters of a mile, has fallen into the river. We

encamped on the western extremity of an island, in the middle of the

river, having made ten and three quarter miles. The river falls a

little. The sandbars which we passed to-day, are more numerous, and the

rolling sands more frequent and dangerous, than any we have seen; these

obstacles increasing as we approach the river Platte. The Missouri here

is wider also than below, where the timber on the banks resists the

current; while here the prairies which approach, are more easily washed

and undermined. The hunters have brought for the last few days, no

quadruped, but deer: great quantities of young geese are seen to-day:

one of them brought calamus, which he had gathered opposite our

encampment, and a large quantity of sweet-flag.

Friday, July 20. There was a heavy dew last night, and this morning was

foggy and cool. We passed at about three miles distance, a small willow

island to the north, and a creek on the south, about twenty-five yards

wide, called by the French, L'eau qui Pleure, or the Weeping Water, and

emptying itself just above a cliff of brown clay. Thence we made two and

a half miles to another island; three miles further to a third: six

miles beyond which is a fourth island; at the head of which we encamped

on the southern shore; in all eighteen miles. The party, who walked on

the shore to-day, found the plains to the south, rich, but much parched

with frequent fires, and with no timber, except the scattering trees

about the sources of the runs, which are numerous and fine. On the

north, is a similar prairie country. The river continues to fall. A

large yellow wolf was this day killed. For a month past the party have

been troubled with biles, and occasionally with the dysentery. These

biles were large tumours which broke out under the arms, on the legs,

and, generally, in the parts most exposed to action, which sometimes

became too painful to permit the men to work. After remaining some days,

they disappeared without any assistance, except a poultice of the bark

of the elm, or of Indian meal. This disorder, which we ascribe to the

muddiness of the river water, has not affected the general health of the

party, which is quite as good, if not better, than that of the same

number of men in any other situation.

Saturday, July 21. We had a breeze from the southeast, by the aid of

which we passed, at about ten miles, a willow island on the south, near

high lands covered with timber, at the bank, and formed of limestone

with cemented shells: on the opposite side is a bad sandbar, and the

land near it is cut through at high water, by small channels forming a

number of islands. The wind lulled at seven o'clock, and we reached, in

the rain, the mouth of the great river Platte, at the distance of

fourteen miles. The highlands which had accompanied us on the south, for

the last eight or ten miles, stopped at about three quarters of a mile

from the entrance of the Platte. Captains Lewis and Clarke ascended the

river in a periogue, for about one mile, and found the current very

rapid; rolling over sands, and divided into a number of channels; none

of which are deeper than five or six feet. One of our Frenchmen, who

spent two winters on it, says that it spreads much more at some distance

from the mouth; that its depth is generally not more than five or six

feet; that there are many small islands scattered through it, and that

from its rapidity and the quantity of its sand, it cannot be navigated

by boats or periogues, though the Indians pass it in small flat canoes

made of hides. That the Saline or Salt river, which in some seasons is

too brackish to be drank, falls into it from the south about thirty

miles up, and a little above it Elkhorn river from the north, running

nearly parallel with the Missouri. The river is, in fact, much more

rapid than the Missouri, the bed of which it fills with moving sands,

and drives the current on the northern shore, on which it is constantly

encroaching. At its junction the Platte is about six hundred yards wide,

and the same number of miles from the Mississippi. With much difficulty

we worked round the sandbars near the mouth, and came to above the

point, having made fifteen miles. A number of wolves were seen and heard

around us in the evening.

July 22. The next morning we set sail, and having found at the distance

of ten miles from the Platte, a high and shaded situation on the north,

we encamped there, intending to make the requisite observations, and to

send for the neighbouring tribes, for the purpose of making known the

recent change in the government, and the wish of the United States to

cultivate their friendship.

CHAP. II.

Some account of the Pawnee Indians--Council held with the Otto and

Missouri Indians--Council held with another party of the

Ottoes--Death of sergeant Floyd--The party encamp near the mouth of

Whitestone river--The character of the Missouri, with the rivers

that enter it--The surrounding country--The various islands, bays,

creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition.

Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it

is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered with wood, the other

dry and elevated. The low grounds on the south near the junction of the

two rivers, are rich, but subject to be overflowed. Farther up, the

banks are higher, and opposite our camp the first hills approach the

river, and are covered with timber, such as oak, walnut, and elm. The

intermediate country is watered by the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, of

about eighteen yards wide, and three miles from the Platte; on the north

are high open plains and prairies, and at nine miles from the Platte,

the Musquitoe creek, and two or three small willow islands. We stayed

here several days, during which we dried our provisions, made new oars,

and prepared our despatches and maps of the country we had passed, for

the president of the United States, to whom we intend to send them by a

periogue from this place. The hunters have found game scarce in this

neighbourhood; they have seen deer, turkies, and grouse; we have also an

abundance of ripe grapes; and one of our men caught a white catfish, the

eyes of which were small, and its tail resembling that of a dolphin. The

present season is that in which the Indians go out into the prairies to

hunt the buffaloe; but as we discovered some hunter's tracks, and

observed the plains on fire in the direction of their villages, we hoped

that they might have returned to gather the green indian corn, and

therefore despatched two men to the Ottoes or Pawnee villages with a

present of tobacco, and an invitation to the chiefs to visit us. They

returned after two days absence. Their first course was through an open

prairie to the south, in which they crossed Butterfly creek. They then

reached a small beautiful river, called Come de Cerf, or Elkhorn river,

about one hundred yards wide, with clear water and a gravelly channel.

It empties a little below the Ottoe village into the Platte, which they

crossed, and arrived at the town about forty-five miles from our camp.

They found no Indians there, though they saw some fresh tracks of a

small party. The Ottoes were once a powerful nation, and lived about

twenty miles above the Platte, on the southern bank of the Missouri.

Being reduced, they migrated to the neighborhood of the Pawnees, under

whose protection they now live. Their village is on the south side of

the Platte, about thirty miles from its mouth; and their number is two

hundred men, including about thirty families of Missouri Indians, who

are incorporated with them. Five leagues above them, on the same side of

the river, resides the nation of Pawnees. This people were among the

most numerous of the Missouri Indians, but have gradually been dispersed

and broken, and even since the year 1797, have undergone some sensible

changes. They now consist of four bands; the first is the one just

mentioned, of about five hundred men, to whom of late years have been

added the second band, who are called republican Pawnees, from their

having lived on the republican branch of the river Kanzas, whence they

emigrated to join the principal band of Pawnees: the republican Pawnees

amount to nearly two hundred and fifty men. The third, are the Pawnees

Loups, or Wolf Pawnees, who reside on the Wolf fork of the Platte, about

ninety miles from the principal Pawnees, and number two hundred and

eighty men. The fourth band originally resided on the Kanzas and

Arkansaw, but in their wars with the Osages, they were so often

defeated, that they at last retired to their present position on the Red

river, where they form a tribe of four hundred men. All these tribes

live in villages, and raise corn; but during the intervals of culture

rove in the plains in quest of buffaloe.

Beyond them on the river, and westward of the Black mountains, are the

Kaninaviesch, consisting of about four hundred men. They are supposed to

have emigrated originally from the Pawnees nation; but they have

degenerated from the improvements of the parent tribe, and no longer

live in villages, but rove through the plains.

Still further to the westward, are several tribes, who wander and hunt

on the sources of the river Platte, and thence to Rock Mountain. These

tribes, of which little more is known than the names and the population,

are first, the Staitan, or Kite Indians, a small tribe of one hundred

men. They have acquired the name of Kites, from their flying; that is,

their being always on horseback; and the smallness of their numbers is

to be attributed to their extreme ferocity; they are the most warlike of

all the western Indians; they never yield in battle; they never spare

their enemies; and the retaliation of this barbarity has almost

extinguished the nation. Then come the Wetapahato, and Kiawa tribes,

associated together, and amounting to two hundred men; the Castahana, of

three hundred men, to which are to be added the Cataka of seventy-five

men, and the Dotami. These wandering tribes, are conjectured to be the

remnants of the Great Padouca nation, who occupied the country between

the upper parts of the river Platte, and the river Kanzas. They were

visited by Bourgemont, in 1724, and then lived on the Kanzas river. The

seats, which he describes as their residence, are now occupied by the

Kanzas nation; and of the Padoucas, there does not now exist even the

name.

July 27. Having completed the object of our stay, we set sail, with a

pleasant breeze from the N.W. The two horses swam over to the southern

shore, along which we went, passing by an island, at three and a half

miles, formed by a pond, fed by springs: three miles further is a large

sand island, in the middle of the river; the land on the south being

high, and covered with timber; that on the north, a high prairie. At ten

and a half miles from our encampment, we saw and examined a curious

collection of graves or mounds, on the south side of the river. Not far

from a low piece of land and a pond, is a tract of about two hundred

acres in circumference, which is covered with mounds of different

heights, shapes, and sizes: some of sand, and some of both earth and

sand; the largest being nearest the river. These mounds indicate the

position of the ancient village of the Ottoes, before they retired to

the protection of the Pawnees. After making fifteen miles, we encamped

on the south, on the bank of a high handsome prairie, with lofty

cottonwood in groves, near the river.

July 28. At one mile, this morning we reached a bluff, on the north,

being the first highlands, which approach the river on that side, since

we left the Nadawa. Above this, is an island and a creek, about fifteen

yards wide, which, as it has no name, we called Indian Knob creek, from

a number of round knobs bare of timber, on the highlands, to the north.

A little below the bluff, on the north, is the spot where the Ayauway

Indians formerly lived. They were a branch of the Ottoes, and emigrated

from this place to the river Desmoines. At ten and three quarter miles,

we encamped on the north, opposite an island, in the middle of the

river. The land, generally, on the north, consists of high prairie and

hills, with timber: on the south, low and covered with cottonwood. Our

hunter brought to us in the evening, a Missouri Indian, whom he had

found, with two others, dressing an elk; they were perfectly friendly,

gave him some of the meat, and one of them agreed to accompany him to

the boat. He is one of the few remaining Missouris, who live with the

Ottoes: he belongs to a small party, whose camp is four miles from the

river; and he says, that the body of the nation is now hunting buffaloe

in the plains: he appeared quite sprightly, and his language resembled

that of the Osage, particularly in his calling a chief, inca. We sent

him back with one of our party next morning,

Sunday, July 29, with an invitation to the Indians, to meet us above on

the river, and then proceeded. We soon came to a northern bend in the

river, which runs within twenty yards of Indian Knob creek, the water of

which is five feet higher than that of the Missouri. In less than two

miles, we passed Boyer's creek on the north, of twenty-five yards width.

We stopped to dine under a shade, near the highland on the south, and

caught several large catfish, one of them nearly white, and all very

fat. Above this highland, we observed the traces of a great hurricane,

which passed the river obliquely from N.W. to S.E. and tore up large

trees, some of which perfectly sound, and four feet in diameter, were

snapped off near the ground. We made ten miles to a wood on the north,

where we encamped. The Missouri is much more crooked, since we passed

the river Platte, though generally speaking, not so rapid; more of

prairie, with less timber, and cottonwood in the low grounds, and oak,

black walnut, hickory, and elm.

July 30. We went early in the morning, three and a quarter miles, and

encamped on the south, in order to wait for the Ottoes. The land here

consists of a plain, above the highwater level, the soil of which is

fertile, and covered with a grass from five to eight feet high,

interspersed with copses of large plums, and a currant, like those of

the United States. It also furnishes two species of honeysuckle; one

growing to a kind of shrub, common about Harrodsburgh (Kentucky), the

other is not so high: the flowers grow in clusters, are short, and of a

light pink colour; the leaves too, are distinct, and do not surround the

stalk, as do those of the common honeysuckle of the United States. Back

of this plain, is a woody ridge about seventy feet above it, at the end

of which we formed our camp. This ridge separates the lower from a

higher prairie, of a good quality, with grass, of ten or twelve inches

in height, and extending back about a mile, to another elevation of

eighty or ninety feet, beyond which is one continued plain. Near our

camp, we enjoy from the bluffs a most beautiful view of the river, and

the adjoining country. At a distance, varying from four to ten miles,

and of a height between seventy and three hundred feet, two parallel

ranges of highland affords a passage to the Missouri, which enriches the

low grounds between them. In its winding course, it nourishes the willow

islands, the scattered cottonwood, elm, sycamore, lynn, and ash, and the

groves are interspersed with hickory, walnut, coffeenut, and oak.

July 31. The meridian altitude of this day made the latitude of our camp

41° 18' 1-4/10". The hunters supplied us with deer, turkies, geese, and

beaver; one of the last was caught alive, and in a very short time was

perfectly tamed. Catfish are very abundant in the river, and we have

also seen a buffaloefish. One our men brought in yesterday an animal

called, by the Pawnees, chocartoosh, and, by the French, blaireau, or

badger. The evening is cool, yet the musquitoes are still very

troublesome.

We waited with much anxiety the return of our messenger to the Ottoes.

The men whom we despatched to our last encampment, returned without

having seen any appearance of its having been visited. Our horses too

had strayed; but we were so fortunate as to recover them at the distance

of twelve miles. Our apprehensions were at length relieved by the

arrival of a party of about fourteen Ottoe and Missouri Indians, who

came at sunset, on the second of August, accompanied by a Frenchman, who

resided among them, and interpreted for us. Captains Lewis and Clarke

went out to meet them, and told them that we would hold a council in the

morning. In the mean time we sent them some roasted meat, pork, flour,

and meal; in return for which they made us a present of watermelons. We

learnt that our man Liberte had set out from their camp a day before

them: we were in hopes that he had fatigued his horse, or lost himself

in the woods, and would soon return; but we never saw him again.

August 8. The next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all

assembled under an awning, formed with the mainsail, in presence of all

our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing

to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and

advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our

speech, each in his turn, according to rank: they expressed their joy at

the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them

to their great father (the president), that they might obtain trade and

necessaries; they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and

asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now

at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to

that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We

then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation

not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments

for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the

second grade to one Ottoe chief, and one Missouri chief; a medal of the

third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation: the customary mode of

recognizing a chief, being to place a medal round his neck, which is

considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each

of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and

cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a cannister of powder, a

bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared to

make them perfectly satisfied. The airgun too was fired, and astonished

them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe named Weahrushhah,

which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal

chieftains present were, Shongotongo, or Big Horse; and Wethea, or

Hospitality; also Shosgusean, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an

Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related, induced us to

give to this place the name of the Council-bluff; the situation of it

is exceedingly favourable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil

is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the

neighbourhood, and the air being pure and healthy. It is also central to

the chief resorts of the Indians: one day's journey to the Ottoes; one

and a half to the great Pawnees; two days from the Mahas; two and a

quarter from the Pawnees Loups village; convenient to the hunting

grounds of the Sioux; and twenty-five days journey to Santa Fee.

The ceremonies of the council being concluded, we set sail in the

afternoon, and encamped at the distance of five miles, on the south

side, where we found the musquitoes very troublesome.

August 4. A violent wind, accompanied by rain, purified and cooled the

atmosphere last night; we proceeded early, and reached a very narrow

part of the river, where the channel is confined within a space of two

hundred yards, by a sand point on the north, and a bend on the south;

the banks in the neighbourhood washing away, the trees falling in, and

the channel filled with buried logs. Above this is a trading house, on

the south, where one of our party passed two years, trading with the

Mahas. At nearly four miles, is a creek on the south, emptying opposite

a large island of sand; between this creek and our last night's

encampment, the river has changed its bed, and encroached on the

southern shore. About two miles further, is another creek on the south,

which, like the former, is the outlet of three ponds, communicating with

each other, and forming a small lake, which is fed by streams from the

highlands. At fifteen miles, we encamped on the south. The hills on both

sides of the river are nearly twelve or fifteen miles from each other;

those of the north containing some timber, while the hills of south are

without any covering, except some scattering wood in the ravines, and

near where the creeks pass into the hills; rich plains and prairies

occupying the intermediate space, and partially covered, near the water,

with cottonwood. There has been a great deal of pumice stone on shore

to-day.

August 5th. We set out early, and, by means of our oars, made twenty and

a half miles, though the river was crowded with sandbars. On both sides

the prairies extend along the river; the banks being covered with great

quantities of grapes, of which three different species are now ripe; one

large and resembling the purple grape. We had some rain this morning,

attended by high wind; but generally speaking, have remarked that

thunder storms are less frequent than in the Atlantic states, at this

season. Snakes too are less frequent, though we killed one to-day of the

shape and size of the rattlesnake, but of a lighter colour. We fixed our

camp on the north side. In the evening, captain Clarke, in pursuing some

game, in an eastern direction, found himself at the distance of three

hundred and seventy yards from the camp, at a point of the river whence

we had come twelve miles. When the water is high, this peninsula is

overflowed, and judging from the customary and notorious changes in the

river, a few years will be sufficient to force the main current of the

river across, and leave the great bend dry. The whole lowland between

the parallel range of hills seems formed of mud or ooze of the river, at

some former period, mixed with sand and clay. The sand of the

neighbouring banks accumulates with the aid of that brought down the

stream, and forms sandbars, projecting into the river; these drive the

channel to the opposite banks, the loose texture of which it undermines,

and at length deserts its ancient bed for a new and shorter passage; it

is thus that the banks of the Missouri are constantly falling, and the

river changing its bed.

August 6. In the morning, after a violent storm of wind and rain from

N.W. we passed a large island to the north. In the channel separating it

from the shore, a creek called Soldier's river enters; the island kept

it from our view, but one of our men who had seen it, represents it as

about forty yards wide at its mouth. At five miles, we came to a bend

of the river towards the north, a sandbar, running in from the south,

had turned its course so as to leave the old channel quite dry. We again

saw the same appearance at our encampment, twenty and a half miles

distant on the north side. Here the channel of the river had encroached

south, and the old bed was without water, except a few ponds. The

sandbars are still very numerous.

August 7. We had another storm from the N.W. in the course of the last

evening; in the morning we proceeded, having the wind from the north,

and encamped on the northern shore, having rowed seventeen miles. The

river is here encumbered with sandbars, but no islands, except two small

ones, called Detachment islands, and formed on the south side by a small

stream.

We despatched four men back to the Ottoes village in quest of our man,

Liberte, and to apprehend one of the soldiers, who left us on the 4th,

under pretence of recovering a knife which he had dropped a short

distance behind, and who we fear has deserted. We also sent small

presents to the Ottoes and Missouris, and requested that they would join

us at the Maha village, where a peace might be concluded between them.

August 8. At two miles distance, this morning we came to a part of the

river, where there was concealed timber difficult to pass. The wind was

from the N.W. and we proceeded in safety. At six miles, a river empties

on the northern side, called by the Sioux Indians, Eaneahwadepon, or

Stone river; and by the French, Petite Riviere des Sioux, or Little

Sioux river. At its confluence it is eighty yards wide. Our interpreter,

Mr. Durion, who has been to the sources of it, and knows the adjoining

country, says that it rises within about nine miles of the river

Desmoines; that within fifteen leagues of that river it passes through a

large lake nearly sixty miles in circumference, and divided into two

parts by rocks which approach each other very closely: its width is

various: it contains many islands, and is known by the name of the Lac

d'Esprit: it is near the Dogplains, and within four days march of the

Mahas. The country watered by it, is open and undulating, and may be

visited in boats up the river for some distance. The Desmoines, he adds,

is about eighty yards wide where the Little Sioux river approaches it:

it is shoaly, and one of its principal branches is called Cat river. Two

miles beyond this river is a long island which we called Pelican island,

from the numbers of that animal which were feeding on it: one of these

being killed, we poured into his bag five gallons of water. An elk, too,

was shot, and we had again to remark that snakes are rare in this part

of the Missouri. A meridian altitude near the Little Sioux river made

the latitude 41° 42' 34". We encamped on the north, having come sixteen

miles.

August 9. A thick fog detained us until past seven o'clock, after which

we proceeded with a gentle breeze from the southeast. After passing two

sandbars we reached, at seven and a half miles, a point of highland on

the left, near which the river has forced itself a channel across a

peninsula, leaving on the right a circuit of twelve or eighteen miles,

which is now recognised by the ponds and islands it contains. At

seventeen and a half miles, we reached a point on the north, where we

encamped. The hills are at a great distance from the river for the last

several days; the land, on both sides low, and covered with cottonwood

and abundance of grape vines. An elk was seen to-day, a turkey also

shot, and near our camp is a beaver den: the musquitoes have been more

troublesome than ever for the two last days.

August 10. At two and a half miles, we came to a place, called Coupee a

Jacques, where the river has found a new bed, and abridged a circuit of

several miles: at twelve and a half miles, a cliff of yellow stone on

the left. This is the first highland near the river above the

Council-bluff. After passing a number of sandbars we reached a willow

island at the distance of twenty-two and a half miles, which we were

enabled to do with our oars and a wind from the S.W. and encamped on the

north side.

August 11. After a violent wind from the N.W. attended with rain, we

sailed along the right of the island. At nearly five miles, we halted on

the south side for the purpose of examining a spot where one of the

great chiefs of the Mahas named Blackbird, who died about four years ago

of the smallpox, was buried. A hill of yellow soft sandstone rises from

the river in bluffs of various heights, till it ends in a knoll about

three hundred feet above the water; on the top of this a mound, of

twelve feet diameter at the base and six feet high, is raised over the

body of the deceased king; a pole of about eight feet high is fixed in

the centre; on which we placed a white flag, bordered with red, blue,

and white. The Blackbird seems to have been a personage of great

consideration; for ever since his death he is supplied with provisions,

from time to time, by the superstitious regard of the Mahas. We

descended to the river and passed a small creek on the south, called, by

the Mahas, Waucandipeeche, (Great Spirit is bad.) Near this creek and

the adjoining hills the Mahas had a village, and lost four hundred of

their nation by the dreadful malady which destroyed the Blackbird. The

meridian altitude made the latitude 42° 1' 3-8/10" north. We encamped,

at seventeen miles distance, on the north side in a bend of the river.

During our day's course it has been crooked; we observed a number of

places in it where the old channel is filled up, or gradually becoming

covered with willow and cottonwood; great numbers of herons are observed

to-day, and the mosquitoes annoy us very much.

August 12. A gentle breeze from the south, carried us along about ten

miles, when we stopped to take meridian altitude, and sent a man across

to our place of observation: yesterday he stepped nine hundred and

seventy-four yards, and the distance we had come round, was eighteen

miles and three quarters. The river is wider and shallower than usual.

Four miles beyond this bend a bluff begins, and continues several

miles; on the south it rises from the water at different heights, from

twenty to one hundred and fifty feet, and higher as it recedes on the

river: it consists of yellow and brown clay, with soft sandstone imbeded

in it, and is covered with timber, among which may be observed some red

cedar: the lands on the opposite side are low and subject to inundation,

but contain willows, cottonwood, and many grapes. A prairie-wolf came

near the bank and barked at us; we attempted unsuccessfully to take him.

This part of the river abounds in beaver. We encamped on a sand-island

in a bend to the north, having made twenty miles and a quarter.

August 13. Set out at daylight with a breeze from the southeast, and

passed several sandbars. Between ten and eleven miles, we came to a spot

on the south, where a Mr. Mackay had a trading establishment in the year

1795 and 1796, which he called Fort Charles. At fourteen miles, we

reached a creek on the south, on which the Mahas reside, and at

seventeen miles and a quarter, formed a camp on a sandbar, to the south

side of the river, opposite the lower point of a large island. From this

place sergeant Ordway and four men were detached to the Maha village

with a flag and a present, in order to induce them to come and hold a

council with us. They returned at twelve o'clock the next day, August

14. After crossing a prairie covered with high grass, they reached the

Maha creek, along which they proceeded to its three forks, which join

near the village: they crossed the north branch and went along the

south; the walk was very fatiguing, as they were forced to break their

way through grass, sunflowers and thistles, all above ten feet high, and

interspersed with wild pea. Five miles from our camp they reached the

position of the ancient Maha village: it had once consisted of three

hundred cabins, but was burnt about four years ago, soon after the

smallpox had destroyed four hundred men, and a proportion of women and

children. On a hill, in the rear of the village, are the graves of the

nation; to the south of which runs the fork of the Maha creek: this they

crossed where it was about ten yards wide, and followed its course to

the Missouri, passing along a ridge of hill for one and a half mile, and

a long pond between that and the Missouri: they then recrossed the Maha

creek, and arrived at the camp, having seen no tracks of Indians nor any

sign of recent cultivation.

In the morning 15th, some men were sent to examine the cause of a large

smoke from the northeast, and which seemed to indicate that some Indians

were near; but they found that a small party, who had lately passed that

way, had left some trees burning, and that the wind from that quarter

blew the smoke directly towards us. Our camp lies about three miles

northeast from the old Maha village, and is in latitude 42° 15' 41". The

accounts we have had of the effects of the smallpox on that nation are

most distressing; it is not known in what way it was first communicated

to them, though probably by some war party. They had been a military and

powerful people; but when these warriors saw their strength wasting

before a malady which they could not resist, their phrenzy was extreme;

they burnt their village, and many of them put to death their wives and

children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, and that all might

go together to some better country.

On the 16th, we still waited for the Indians: a party had gone out

yesterday to the Maha creek, which was damned up by the beaver between

the camp and the village: a second went to-day. They made a kind of drag

with small willows and bark, and swept the creek: the first company

brought three hundred and eighteen, the second upwards of eight hundred,

consisting of pike, bass, fish resembling salmon, trout, redhorse,

buffaloe, one rockfish, one flatback, perch, catfish, a small species of

perch called, on the Ohio, silverfish, a shrimp of the same size, shape

and flavour of those about Neworleans, and the lower part of the

Mississippi. We also found very fat muscles; and on the river as well as

the creek, are different kinds of ducks and plover. The wind, which in

the morning had been from the northwest, shifted round in the evening to

the southeast, and as usual we had a breeze, which cooled the air and

relieve us from the musquitoes, who generally give us great trouble.

Friday 17. The wind continued from the southeast, and the morning was

fair. We observe about us a grass resembling wheat, except that the

grain is like rye, also some similar to both rye and barley, and a kind

of timothy, the seed of which branches from the main stock, and is more

like a flaxseed than a timothy. In the evening, one of the party sent to

the Ottoes, returned with the information that the rest were coming on

with the deserter: they had also caught Liberte, but, by a trick, he

made his escape: they were bringing three of the chiefs in order to

engage our assistance in making peace with the Mahas. This nation having

left their village, that desirable purpose cannot be effected; but in

order to bring in any neighbouring tribes, we set the surrounding

prairies on fire. This is the customary signal made by traders to

apprize the Indians of their arrival: it is also used between different

nations as an indication of any event which they have previously agreed

to announce in that way; and as soon as it is seen collects the

neighbouring tribes, unless they apprehend that it is made by their

enemies.

August 18. In the afternoon the party arrived with the Indians,

consisting of the Little Thief and the Big Horse, whom we had seen on

the third, together with six other chiefs, and a French interpreter. We

met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which

we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them

and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that

two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were

detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound

to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged

to share in the dispute; they are also in fear of a war from the

Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants

were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not

make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no

Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed

by a dance; and the next day,

August 19, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we

explained the speech we had already sent from the Council-bluffs, and

renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then

distributed: we exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the

Big Horse for one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also

gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter

of acknowledgment to five of the warriors expressive of our favour and

their good intentions: one of them dissatisfied, returned us the

certificate; but the chief, fearful of our being offended, begged that

it might be restored to him; this we declined, and rebuked them severely

for having in view mere traffic instead of peace with their neighbours.

This displeased them at first; but they at length all petitioned that it

should be given to the warrior, who then came forward and made an

apology to us; we then delivered it to the chief to be given to the most

worthy, and he bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great

Blue Eyes. After a more substantial present of small articles and

tobacco, the council was ended with a dram to the Indians. In the

evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, and particularly

the airgun, which gave them great surprise. Those people are almost

naked, having no covering, except a sort of breechcloth round the

middle, with a loose blanket or buffaloe robe painted, thrown over them.

The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned were

Karkapaha, (or Crow's head) and Nenasawa (or Black Cat) Missouris; and

Sananona (or Iron Eyes) Neswaunja (or Big Ox) Stageaunja (or Big Blue

Eyes) and Wasashaco (or Brave Man) all Ottoes. These two tribes speak

very nearly the same language: they all begged us to give them whiskey.

The next morning, August 20, the Indians mounted their horses and left

us, having received a canister of whiskey at parting. We then set sail,

and after passing two islands on the north, came to on that side under

some bluffs; the first near the river since we left the Ayauwa village.

Here we had the misfortune to lose one of our sergeants, Charles Floyd.

He was yesterday seized with a bilious cholic, and all our care and

attention were ineffectual to relieve him: a little before his death, he

said to captain Clark, "I am going to leave you," his strength failed

him as he added "I want you to write me a letter," but he died with a

composure which justified the high opinion we had formed of his firmness

and good conduct. He was buried on the top of the bluff with the honours

due to a brave soldier; and the place of his interment marked by a cedar

post, on which his name and the day of his death were inscribed. About a

mile beyond this place, to which we gave his name, is a small river

about thirty yards wide, on the north, which we called Floyd's river,

where we encamped. We had a breeze from the southeast, and made thirteen

miles.

August 21. The same breeze from the southeast carried us by a small

willow creek on the north, about one mile and a half above Floyd's

river. Here began a range of bluffs which continued till near the mouth

of the great Sioux river, three miles beyond Floyd's. This river comes

in from the north, and is about one hundred and ten yards wide. Mr.

Durion, our Sioux interpreter, who is well acquainted with it, says that

it is navigable upwards of two hundred miles to the falls, and even

beyond them; that its sources are near those of the St. Peters. He also

says, that below the falls a creek falls in from the eastward, after

passing through cliffs of red rock: of this the Indians make their

pipes; and the necessity of procuring that article, has introduced a

sort of law of nations, by which the banks of the creek are sacred, and

even tribes at war meet without hostility at these quarries, which

possess a right of asylum. Thus we find even among savages certain

principles deemed sacred, by which the rigours of their merciless system

of warfare are mitigated. A sense of common danger, where stronger ties

are wanting, gives all the binding force of more solemn obligations. The

importance of preserving the known and settled rules of warfare among

civilized nations, in all their integrity, becomes strikingly evident;

since even savages, with their few precarious wants, cannot exist in a

state of peace or war where this faith is once violated. The wind became

southerly, and blew with such violence that we took a reef in our sail:

it also blew the sand from the bars in such quantities, that we could

not see the channel at any distance ahead. At four and a quarter miles,

we came to two willow islands, beyond which are several sandbars; and at

twelve miles, a spot where the Mahas once had a village, now no longer

existing. We again passed a number of sandbars, and encamped on the

south; having come twenty-four and three quarter miles. The country

through which we passed has the same uniform appearance ever since we

left the river Platte: rich low-grounds near the river, succeeded by

undulating prairies, with timber near the waters. Some wolves were seen

to-day on the sandbeaches to the south; we also procured an excellent

fruit, resembling a red currant, growing on a shrub like the privy, and

about the height of a wild plum.

August 22. About three miles distance, we joined the men who had been

sent from the Maha village with our horses, and who brought us two deer.

The bluffs or hills which reach the river at this place, on the south,

contain allum, copperas, cobalt which had the appearance of soft

isinglass, pyrites, and sandstone, the two first very pure. Above this

bluff comes in a small creek on the south, which we call Rologe creek.

Seven miles above is another cliff, on the same side, of allum rock, of

a dark brown colour, containing in its crevices great quantities of

cobalt, cemented shells, and red earth. From this the river bends to the

eastward, and approaches the Sioux river within three or four miles. We

sailed the greater part of the day, and made nineteen miles to our camp

on the north side. The sandbars are as usual numerous: there are also

considerable traces of elk; but none are yet seen. Captain Lewis in

proving the quality of some of the substances in the first cliff, was

considerably injured by the fumes and taste of the cobalt, and took some

strong medicine to relieve him from its effects. The appearance of these

mineral substances enable us to account for disorders of the stomach,

with which the party had been affected since they left the river Sioux.

We had been in the habit of dipping up the water of the river

inadvertently and making use of it, till, on examination, the sickness

was thought to proceed from a scum covering the surface of the water

along the southern shore, and which, as we now discovered, proceeded

from these bluffs. The men had been ordered, before we reached the

bluffs, to agitate the water, so as to disperse the scum, and take the

water, not at the surface, but at some depth. The consequence was, that

these disorders ceased: the biles too which had afflicted the men, were

not observed beyond the Sioux river. In order to supply the place of

sergeant Floyd, we permitted the men to name three persons, and Patrick

Gass having the greatest number of votes was made a sergeant.

August 23. We set out early, and at four miles came to a small run

between cliffs of yellow and blue earth: the wind, however, soon

changed, and blew so hard from the west, that we proceeded very slowly;

the fine sand from the bar being driven in such clouds, that we could

scarcely see. Three and a quarter miles beyond this run, we came to a

willow island, and a sand island opposite, and encamped on the south

side, at ten and a quarter miles. On the north side is an extensive and

delightful prairie, which we called Buffaloe prairie, from our having

here killed the first buffaloe. Two elk swam the river to-day and were

fired at, but escaped: a deer was killed from the boat; one beaver was

killed; and several prairie wolves were seen.

August 24. It began to rain last night, and continued this morning: we

proceeded, however, two and a quarter miles, to the commencement of a

bluff of blue clay, about one hundred and eighty, or one hundred and

ninety feet on the south side: it seems to have been lately on fire; and

even now the ground is so warm that we cannot keep our hands in it at

any depth: there are strong appearances of coal, and also great

quantities of cobalt, or a crystalized substance resembling it. There is

a fruit now ripe which looks like a currant, except that it is double

the size, and grows on a bush like a privy, the size of a damson, and of

a delicious flavour; its Indian name means rabbit-berries. We then

passed, at the distance of about seven miles, the mouth of a creek on

the north side, called by an Indian name, meaning Whitestone river. The

beautiful prairie of yesterday, has changed into one of greater height,

and very smooth and extensive. We encamped on the south side, at ten and

a quarter miles, and found ourselves much annoyed by the musquitoes.

CHAP. III.

Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians--Council

held with the Sioux--Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.--A

ridiculous instance of their heroism--Ancient

fortifications--Quieurre river described--Vast herds of

Buffaloe--Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog--Narrow escape

of George Shannon--Description of Whiteriver--Surprising fleetness

of the Antelope--Pass the river of the Sioux--Description of the

Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend--Encamp on the Teton river.

August 25. Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men, went to see an

object deemed very extraordinary among all the neighbouring Indians.

They dropped down to the mouth of Whitestone river, about thirty yards

wide, where they left the boat, and at the distance of two hundred

yards, ascended a rising ground, from which a plain extended itself as

far as the eye could discern. After walking four miles, they crossed the

creek where it is twenty-three yards wide, and waters an extensive

valley. The heat was so oppressive that we were obliged to send back our

dog to the creek, as he was unable to bear the fatigue; and it was not

till after four hours march that we reached the object of our visit.

This was a large mound in the midst of the plain about N. 20° W. from

the month of Whitestone river, from which it is nine miles distant. The

base of the mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being

about three hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy: from the

longest side it rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to

the height of sixty-five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level

plain of twelve feet in breadth and ninety in length. The north and

south extremities are connected by two oval borders which serve as new

bases, and divide the whole side into three steep but regular gradations

from the plain. The only thing characteristic in this hill is its

extreme symmetry, and this, together with its being totally detached

from the other hills which are at the distance of eight or nine miles,

would induce a belief that it was artificial; but, as the earth and the

loose pebbles which compose it, are arranged exactly like the steep

grounds on the borders of the creek, we concluded from this similarity

of texture that it might be natural. But the Indians have made it a

great article of their superstition: it is called the mountain of Little

People, or Little Spirits, and they believe that it is the abode of

little devils, in the human form, of about eighteen inches high and with

remarkably large heads; they are armed with sharp arrows, with which

they are very skilful, and are always on the watch to kill those who

should have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tradition is,

that many have suffered from these little evil spirits, and among

others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since.

This has inspired all the neighbouring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and

Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to

visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits; nor any

place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top: we were

happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on

the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads

itself out till the eye rests upon the N.W. hills at a great distance,

and those of N.E. still farther off, enlivened by large herds of

buffaloe feeding at a distance. The soil of these plains is exceedingly

fine; there is, however, no timber except on the Missouri: all the wood

of the Whitestone river not being sufficient to cover thickly one

hundred acres. The plain country which surrounds this mound has

contributed not a little to its bad reputation: the wind driving from

every direction over the level ground obliges the insects to seek

shelter on its leeward side, or be driven against us by the wind. The

small birds, whose food they are, resort of course in great numbers in

quest of subsistence; and the Indians always seem to discover an unusual

assemblage of birds as produced by some supernatural cause: among them

we observed the brown martin employed in looking for insects, and so

gentle that they did not fly until we got within a few feet of them. We

have also distinguished among numerous birds of the plain, the

blackbird, the wren or prairie bird, and a species of lark about the

size of a partridge, with a short tail. The excessive heat and thirst

forced us from the hill, about one o'clock, to the nearest water, which

we found in the creek, at three miles distance, and remained an hour and

a half. We then went down the creek, through a lowland about one mile in

width, and crossed it three times, to the spot where we first reached it

in the morning. Here we gathered some delicious plums, grapes and blue

currants, and afterwards arrived at the mouth of the river about sunset.

To this place the course from the mound is S. twenty miles, E. nine

miles; we there resumed our periogue, and on reaching our encampment of

last night set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of our approach.

In the mean time, the boat under serjeant Pryor had proceeded in the

afternoon one mile, to a bluff of blue clay on the south, and after

passing a sandbar and two sand islands fixed their camp at the distance

of six miles on the south. In the evening some rain fell. We had killed

a duck and several birds: in the boat, they had caught some large

catfish.

Sunday, August 26. We rejoined the boat at nine o'clock before she set

out, and then passing by an island, and under a cliff on the south,

nearly two miles in extent and composed of white and blue earth,

encamped at nine miles distance, on a sandbar towards the north.

Opposite to this, on the south, is a small creek called Petit Arc or

Little Bow, and a short distance above it, an old village of the same

name. This village, of which nothing remains but the mound of earth

about four feet high surrounding it, was built by a Maha chief named

Little Bow, who being displeased with Blackbird, the late king, seceded

with two hundred followers and settled at this spot, which is now

abandoned, as the two villages have reunited since the death of

Blackbird. We have great quantities of grapes, and plums of three kinds;

two of a yellow colour, and distinguished by one of the species being

longer than the other; and a third round and red: all have an excellent

flavour, particularly those of the yellow kind.

August 27. The morning star appeared much larger than usual. A gentle

breeze from the southeast carried us by some large sandbars, on both

sides and in the middle of the river, to a bluff, on the south side, at

seven and a half miles distant; this bluff is of white clay or chalk,

under which is much stone, like lime, incrusted with a clear substance,

supposed to be cobalt, and some dark ore. Above this bluff we set the

prairie on fire, to invite the Sioux. After twelve and a half miles, we

had passed several other sandbars, and now reached the mouth of a river

called by the French Jacques (James river) or Yankton, from the tribe

which inhabits its banks. It is about ninety yards wide at the

confluence: the country which it waters is rich prairie, with little

timber: it becomes deeper and wider above its mouth, and may be

navigated a great distance; as its sources rise near those of St.

Peter's, of the Mississippi, and the red river of lake Winnipeg. As we

came to the mouth of the river, an Indian swam to the boat; and, on our

landing, we were met by two others, who informed us that a large body of

Sioux were encamped near us: they accompanied three of our men, with an

invitation to meet us at a spot above the river: the third Indian

remained with us: he is a Maha boy, and says that his nation have gone

to the Pawnees to make peace with them. At fourteen miles, we encamped

on a sandbar to the north. The air was cool, the evening pleasant, the

wind from the southeast, and light. The river has fallen gradually, and

is now low.

Tuesday, 28th. We passed, with a stiff breeze from the south, several

sandbars. On the south is a prairie which rises gradually from the water

to the height of a bluff, which is, at four miles distance, of a whitish

colour, and about seventy or eighty feet high. Further on is another

bluff, of a brownish colour, on the north side; and at the distance of

eight and a half miles is the beginning of Calumet bluff, on the south

side, under which we formed our camp, in a beautiful plain, to wait the

arrival of the Sioux. At the first bluff the young Indian left us and

joined their camp. Before reaching Calumet bluff one of the periogues

ran upon a log in the river, and was rendered unfit for service; so that

all our loading was put into the second periogue. On both sides of the

river are fine prairies, with cotton wood; and near the bluff there is

more timber in the points and valleys than we have been accustomed to

see.

Wednesday, 29th. We had a violent storm of wind and rain last evening;

and were engaged during the day in repairing the periogue, and other

necessary occupations; when, at four o'clock in the afternoon, sergeant

Pryor and his party arrived on the opposite side, attended by five

chiefs, and about seventy men and boys. We sent a boat for them, and

they joined us, as did also Mr. Durion, the son of our interpreter, who

happened to be trading with the Sioux at this time. He returned with

sergeant Pryor to the Indians, with a present of tobacco, corn, and a

few kettles; and told them that we would speak to their chiefs in the

morning. Sergeant Pryor reported, that on reaching their village, which

is at twelve miles distance from our camp, he was met by a party with a

buffaloe robe, on which they desired to carry their visitors: an honour

which they declined, informing the Indians that they were not the

commanders of the boats: as a great mark of respect, they were then

presented with a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook

heartily, and found it well flavoured. The camps of the Sioux are of a

conical form, covered with buffaloe robes, painted with various figures

and colours, with an aperture in the top for the smoke to pass through.

The lodges contain from ten to fifteen persons, and the interior

arrangement is compact and handsome, each lodge having a place for

cooking detached from it.

August 30th. Thursday. The fog was so thick that we could not see the

Indian camp on the opposite side, but it cleared off about eight

o'clock. We prepared a speech, and some presents, and then sent for the

chiefs and warriors, whom we received, at twelve o'clock, under a large

oak tree, near to which the flag of the United States was flying.

Captain Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual advice and counsel for

their future conduct. We then acknowledged their chiefs, by giving to

the grand chief a flag, a medal, a certificate, with a string of wampum;

to which we added a chief's coat; that is, a richly laced uniform of the

United States artillery corps, and a cocked hat and red feather. One

second chief and three inferior ones were made or recognised by medals,

and a suitable present of tobacco, and articles of clothing. We then

smoked the pipe of peace, and the chiefs retired to a bower, formed of

bushes, by their young men, where they divided among each other the

presents, and smoked and eat, and held a council on the answer which

they were to make us to-morrow. The young people exercised their bows

and arrows in shooting at marks for beads, which we distributed to the

best marksmen; and in the evening the whole party danced until a late

hour, and in the course of their amusement we threw among them some

knives, tobacco, bells, tape, and binding, with which they were much

pleased. Their musical instruments were the drum, and a sort of little

bag made of buffaloe hide, dressed white, with small shot or pebbles in

it, and a bunch of hair tied to it. This produces a sort of rattling

music, with which the party was annoyed by four musicians during the

council this morning.

August 31. In the morning, after breakfast, the chiefs met, and sat down

in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all pointed

towards the seats intended for captains Lewis and Clarke. When they

arrived and were seated, the grand chief, whose Indian name, Weucha, is,

in English Shake Hand, and, in French, is called Le Liberateur (the

deliverer) rose, and spoke at some length, approving what we had said,

and promising to follow our advice:

"I see before me," said he, "my great father's two sons. You see me, and

the rest of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither

powder nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village

have no clothes. I wish that as my brothers have given me a flag and a

medal, they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop

and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring

chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them;

but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for

they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to

your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I

went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes:

when I went to the Spanish they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it

from my skin; but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are

poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our squaws."