“Not only offerings, but actually prayers are made to demons. I

shall never forget the first prayer of the kind I ever heard....

We had just entered a dark defile in the mountains, beyond Mûang

Tôn, and had come to a rude, imageless shrine erected to the

guardian demon of the pass. The owner of my riding-elephant was

seated on the neck of the big beast before me. Putting the palms

of his hands together and raising them in the attitude of

worship, he prayed: ‘Let no evil happen to us. We are six men

and three elephants. Let us not be injured. Let nothing come to

frighten us,’ and so on. On my way down the river, at the rapids

and gloomy passes in the mountains the boatmen would land,

tapers would be lighted, and libations would be poured, and

offerings of flowers, food, and betel would be made to the

powers of darkness.”

The doctor speaks also of “the favour with which the

missionaries were received, the confidence they had won from all

classes, the influence of their medicines, and the grand field

open for a physician.” He frankly says, “I must confess that

though at one time I did have some misgivings whether, all

things considered, the movement was not a little premature, I

now, being better able to judge, greatly honour the Christian

courage and enterprise which undertook the work; or rather bless

God who inspired Mr. McGilvary’s heart, and made his old

Princeton friend, Mr. Wilson, consent to join him in thus

striking out boldly into an untried field. It will prove, I

trust, a field ready to the harvest.”

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VIII

FIRST-FRUITS

During the first three months after Mr. Wilson’s arrival we were so

occupied with mission work and with family cares that we had not made

choice of the lot which the Prince had promised to give us. On the very

day that Dr. House left us, however, the Prince came in person,

selected, and made over to us our present beautiful mission compound on

the east bank of the Mê Ping. He would not allow us to offer any

compensation; but, learning afterwards that the native owners had

received no remuneration, we secretly paid them. Mr. Wilson began at

once to erect temporary bamboo buildings, and soon moved to the new

compound. Since it was difficult for me to spare time for further work

of building for myself, and since the old location was an ideal one for

meeting the people, I moved with my family from the sālā into the bamboo

house the Wilsons had occupied, and we made it our home for the next two

years.

Mr. Wilson was greatly interrupted in his work by sickness in his

family. Little Frank had fallen ill on the journey from Bangkok, and

continued to suffer during all these months. His death on November 17th,

1868, was a heavy stroke to us all. In vain we combined our slight

medical skill, and searched our books of domestic medicine for his

relief. It was pitiful enough to see the natives die, with the sad

feeling in our hearts that a physician might have saved their lives. But

the death of one of our own number, so soon after the trying experiences

early in the year, emphasized, as nothing else could have done, our

appeals for a physician. Yet it was not until 1872 that we welcomed the

first physician appointed to our mission.

During this time raids were continually being made into the Lāo country

by the renegade Ngīo chieftain already spoken of. Five hundred men from

Prê, and one thousand from Lakawn were drafted for the defence of the

city, and were stationed near our compound. Thus hundreds of soldiers

and workmen furnished us an ever-changing audience. All we had to do,

day or night, was to touch the organ, and people would crowd in to hear.

The dry season of 1868-69 was, therefore, an exceptionally good one for

our work. We had constant visitors from other provinces, who would

converse with us by the hour, and, on returning to their homes, would

carry the news of our presence and of our work.

In the fall of 1868 occurred two events which, widely different as they

might seem to be, were in reality closely connected, and of much

importance in their bearing on the mission. One was a total eclipse of

the sun on August 17th, and the other was the conversion of Nān Inta,

our first baptized convert. I well remember his tall figure and

thoughtful face when he first appeared at our sālā, shortly after our

arrival in Chiengmai. He had a cough, and had come for medicine. He had

heard, too, that we taught a new religion, and wished to enquire about

that. Some soothing expectorant sufficiently relieved his cough to

encourage him to make another call. On each visit religion was the

all-absorbing topic. He had studied Buddhism, and he diligently

practised its precepts. As an abbot he had led others to make offerings

for the monastery worship, and he had two sons of his own in the

monastic order. But Buddhism had never satisfied his deep spiritual

nature. What of the thousands of failures and transgressions from the

results of which there was no escape? The doctrine of a free and full

pardon through the merits of another, was both new and attractive to

him, but it controverted the fundamental principle of his religion.

We had some arguments, also, on the science of geography, on the shape

of the earth, on the nature of eclipses, and the like. What he heard was

as foreign to all his preconceived ideas as was the doctrine of

salvation from sin by the death of Christ. Just before the great eclipse

was to occur I told him of it, naming the day and the hour when it was

to occur. I pointed out that the eclipse could not be caused by a

monster which attacked the sun, as he had been taught. If that were the

cause, no one could foretell the day when the monster would be moved to

make the attack. He at once caught that idea. If the eclipse came off as

I said, he would have to admit that his teaching was wrong on a point

perfectly capable of being tested by the senses. There would then be a

strong presumption that we were right in religion as well as in

eclipses. He waited with intense interest for the day to come. The sky

was clear, and everything was favourable. He watched, with a smoked

glass that we had furnished, the reflection of the sun in a bucket of

water. He followed the coming of the eclipse, its progress, and its

passing off, as anxiously as the wise men of old followed the star of

Bethlehem—and, like them, he, too, was led to the Saviour.

Early the next morning he came in to see me. His first words were, “Mên

tê” (It’s really true). “The teacher’s books teach truth. Ours are

wrong.” This confident assurance had evidently been reached after a

sleepless night. A complete revolution had taken place in his mind; but

it was one that cost him a severe struggle. His only hope had rested on

the teachings of Buddha, and it was no light thing to see the foundation

of his hope undermined. The eclipse had started an ever-widening rift.

He began, as never before, to examine the credentials of Christianity.

He soon learned to read Siamese in order to gain access to our

Scriptures. We read the Gospel of John together. He studied the Shorter

Catechism. He had a logical mind, and it was never idle. Whenever we

met, if only for a few moments, he always had some question to ask me,

or some new doubt to solve. When tempted to doubt, he fell back on the

eclipse, saying, “I know my books were wrong there. If the Gospel system

seems too good to be true in that it offers to pardon and cleanse and

adopt guilty sinners, and give them a title to a heavenly inheritance,

it is simply because it is divine, and not human.” While the truth

dawned gradually on his mind, the full vision seemed to be sudden. His

own account was that afterwards, when walking in the fields and

pondering the subject, it all became very plain to him. His doubts all

vanished. Henceforth for him to live was Christ; and he counted all

things but loss for the excellency of the knowledge of Him.

The conversion of Nān Inta was an epoch in the history of the mission.

The ordinary concourse of visitors might be for medicine, or it might be

from mere curiosity. But when one of the most zealous Buddhists, well

known by members of the royal family, openly embraced Christianity, the

matter began to assume a different aspect. What was more remarkable

still was that he urged his two sons to abandon the monastic order. The

Prince’s younger daughter, herself a strong Buddhist, told me that this

was to her convincing evidence of his sincerity. Whether Christianity

were true or false, he certainly believed it true. It was the height of

ambition for every Lāo father to have a son in the order. If he had none

of his own, he often would adopt one and make him a monk. But here was

one of the most devout of them urging his own sons to come out and be

Christians! We regarded it as a favourable circumstance that the patron

and protector of this our first convert was high in princely rank. Nān

Inta’s defection from Buddhism produced a profound impression among all

classes. Emboldened by his example, secret believers became more open.

Not the number alone, but the character of the enquirers attracted

attention.

The second convert was Noi Sunya, a native doctor from a village eight

miles to the east. He has the enviable distinction of never having

postponed the Gospel offer. He was the chief herdsman in charge of the

Prince’s cattle. Coming to the city on an errand, he called at our sālā

to see what was the attraction there. As in the case of so many others,

it was the good news of pardon for a sinsick soul that arrested his

attention. On his return in the afternoon he called again to make fuller

enquiry concerning “the old, old story of Jesus and His love.” He

promised to return on Sunday. Promises of that sort so often fail, that

we were surprised and delighted to see him early on Sunday morning. We

had an earnest talk together before the time came for public worship. He

remained through the afternoon, and spent the night with us. In answer

to a final exhortation before he left us in the morning, he said, “You

need not fear my going back. I feel sure I am right.” He was willing to

sell all—even life itself, as it proved—for the pearl of great price. He

went home, called his family together, and began family worship that

very night. Only four brief months after this his labours were ended by

the executioner’s stroke, and he wore the martyr’s crown.

The third, Sên Yā Wichai, has already been mentioned as receiving his

first instruction in Christianity from the “mother-teacher,” as Mrs.

McGilvary was called, during the very first month of the mission. He

then received the great truth of the existence of God and of man’s

accountability to Him. He was an officer living six days’ journey to the

north, and was under the jurisdiction of the Prince of Lampūn. On his

visit a year later, he received further instruction, was baptized, and

returned to tell his neighbours what he had found. They only laughed at

him for his oddity in refusing to join in the Buddhist worship, and in

offerings to the spirits.

The fourth was Nān Chai, a neighbour and friend of Noi Sunya, and

destined to suffer martyrdom along with him. He, too, was an ex-abbot,

and, therefore, exempt from government work. He was a good scholar, and

was employed by Mr. Wilson as a teacher. When he became a Christian, he

was strongly tempted to hold on still to his position in the monastery,

explaining that he would not himself engage in the worship, but would

only sweep the buildings and keep the grounds in order for others. But

when his duty was pointed out to him, he readily gave up his position,

and was enrolled for regular government service. Here were four noble

and notable men at once deserting the Buddhist faith! No wonder it

became an anxious question whereunto this was to grow.

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IX

MARTYRDOM

In the course of these events our second year of work in Chiengmai had

come to its end. We were now beyond the middle of the year 1869. As some

indefinable sense of oppression in the air gives warning of the

approaching storm, so there were ominous hints, and even some dark

forebodings. Our Christian people—who understood far better than we did

both the character of their rulers and the significance of furtive looks

and innuendoes—were anxious. But they stood firm, and their faith

strengthened ours.

In the light of subsequent events we now know that the most dangerous

element in the gathering storm was the angry surprise of the Prince

himself at the discovery that the old order seemed actually passing away

under his very eyes; that his will was no longer supreme in men’s minds,

nor always consulted in their actions—this and the deep treachery and

ruthless cruelty of his nature which it brought into play. But there

were other sinister influences at work also, and among them we must not

overlook that of a certain Portuguese adventurer, Fonseca by name. He

was a thoroughly unprincipled man, who, having played his game in

Bangkok and lost, had worked himself into the favour of the Prince

during his recent visit to the capital, and had accompanied him on his

return to Chiengmai. The Prince was persuaded that this man could be of

great service to him in the two matters which were then causing him most

disquietude; namely, the defence of certain lawsuits involving large

sums of money, brought against him in the British Consular Court by

Burmese timber merchants; and the getting rid of the missionaries. These

last were more in Fonseca’s way than they were in the Prince’s. He could

accomplish his ends more readily if they were not there.

The most plausible excuse that could be offered for desiring to be rid

of the missionaries was the failure of the rice crop that year. In the

early part of the season there was no rain at all. When at last the

fields had been planted, one of the worst floods ever known in that

region destroyed all the lowland rice. Then, finally, the rains ceased

prematurely, and the upland crop was cut off by drought. The presence of

the missionaries in the country had offended the spirits, and they had

withheld the rain. Such was the pretext urged in a petition sent to

Bangkok to have the missionaries removed. The specific address of the

petition to the Minister for Foreign Affairs and the United States

Consul leads one to suspect that the matter was directed by some one who

understood the order of official business much better than did the Lāo

Prince.

The Minister forwarded the document to Mr. McDonald, the acting

Vice-Consul at the time. Mr. McDonald replied to the Minister that there

must be some mistake about it. It appeared that the scarcity of rice

complained of had begun the year before the arrival of the missionaries;

it was not confined to Chiengmai, but extended over all the northern

provinces. He added roguishly, however, that he would strictly enjoin

the American missionaries to be very careful in future not to cause any

famine. Of all this secret plotting we were entirely ignorant at the

time, and learned of it only long afterwards. While these plots were

developing, I was frequently visiting the Prince, and all our relations

with him were apparently satisfactory. But we knew that he was under the

influence of a wily and unprincipled adversary.

The other matter in which Fonseca was supposed to be able to help his

patron out of difficulties even more pressing, was the Burmese lawsuits

pending before the British Consul. But the British government was the

last party to permit officious meddling with its public business from

such a quarter. It is presumed that there was evidence of his

interference with official correspondence. This much is certain—a

peremptory demand was made on the Siamese government for his recall. The

official order sent up was too emphatic to be neglected. The man was

sent out of the country in quite different style from that in which he

entered it. This man is known to have been present at the consultation

relative to the mission. If the jealousy and suspicion on the part of

the Prince did not originate with him, there is no doubt that he at

least worked on the Prince’s suspicious nature, increasing his jealousy

of the growing popularity of the mission, and leading him to think that

it would be wise to stop it in its incipiency.

Yet even when the blow was about to fall, we could not believe that the

Prince was so treacherous as to plan to drive us out of the country, at

the same time that he continued to treat us so kindly, and would even

come to dine with us. We could not believe that the younger Princess,

who had a predominating influence over her father, could encourage one

of the Christians to put himself under her protection, only that he

might the more surely be sent to his death a day or two later. We could

not believe that an excursion down the river had been planned by the

Prince, only that he might be out of reach when the executions should

take place. We were still incredulous, even after we received reliable

information from the agent of the Borneo Company that he had heard the

Prince and a certain high officer consulting together to stop our work.

The plan which he reported was to expel the converts from the country,

giving their wives and children the option to follow them or to remain.

After all, that would not have been so great a disaster. These men had

no great possessions to lose. Their banishment would only plant the

Gospel in other provinces or other lands.

When, in September, 1869, just before the fatal stroke, the Prince

started on what purported to be a three weeks’ fishing trip, we thought

that his absence would give us a respite from our present fears, and

would afford him leisure for better thoughts. As his boats pushed off,

we waved him a parting good-bye from the shore. His first business was

at Lampūn, to secure the co-operation of the governor of that province

in ridding the country of the new religion. Inasmuch as Sên Yā Wichai,

the third convert mentioned above, was a Lampūn officer, it was thought

prudent in his case to secure the action of his own immediate superior.

He was at once sent for, and was condemned to death, but was saved by

his young master, the governor’s son, on the plea that he was a

backwoodsman, and knew no better.

Of the deep designs against us and our work we were thus either ignorant

or incredulous till, on the evening of September 13th, just before dark,

our night watchman came to us with the common excuse for leaving us,

that some relative was dead or dying, and insisting that he must go

immediately. In vain we urged that he must not leave us thus in the

lurch. As a final argument, we threatened to dock him of a month’s

wages. But wages were nothing to him then. “All that a man hath will he

give for his life.” While we talked to him, he had reached the gate and

was gone. So, also, fled the cook and the coolie, leaving only one blind

Ngīo who had taken refuge with us.

Mr. Wilson then lived across the river on the new premises, and it was

not until the next day that we learned that all his people, too, had

fled in like manner and at the same hour. We went to Prayā Tēpasing, the

Prince’s executive officer, to enquire the cause. He feigned surprise,

and professed entire ignorance of any designs against the Christians. He

said, however, that the Prince had given an order that the inhabitants

of certain villages should bring in each a hewn slab of timber to repair

the stockade. Possibly the scare might have somehow arisen from that. We

were aware of the order, and had told the Christians that if pressed for

time to procure the timber, they might each take a slab of ours. We now

told the Prayā that we would ourselves be responsible for the timbers

required of them. To assure us with regard to our servants, the Prayā

sent for our cook, gave him a letter assuring his safety, and

threatened, besides, to have him flogged if he deserted us. The cook

remained with us all through these troubles, until we could find another

to take his place. For some reason Mr. Wilson did not avail himself of

this offer. He and Mrs. Wilson got on as they could without servants for

several months.

We now know that the order for the execution of the Christians had been

given long before by that same Prayā Tēpasing—in such fear of the Prince

was the highest officer in the realm! Not only had our servants

vanished—there was a sudden cessation of our visitors as well. Few even

dared to come for medicine for fear of being suspected of becoming

Christians. There were, however, a few notable exceptions, the abbot of

the Ūmōng monastery being the most conspicuous.

During the following week Mr. Wilson waded out across the flooded

country to the home of Nān Chai, his teacher. But his family did not

dare to give any information concerning him. To tell what they knew

would cost their lives also—so they had been told. He then went on

another mile to Noi Sunya’s home, with the same result. The wives of

both these men pretended to believe that their husbands had gone to the

city to visit us. Mr. Wilson noticed that one of the women had tears in

her eyes as she spoke. Puzzled rather than satisfied by the result of

the visit, Mr. Wilson returned with the hope that, after all, the men

were still alive, and that we yet should see them in the land of the

living.

It was two weeks before our suspense was broken by the certainty of

their death. On Sunday morning, September 26th, a Ngīo friend and

neighbour of the martyrs called at my house. After looking all about

him, he asked where the Christians were. I told him there seemed to be a

mystery about them that we could not unravel, but we hoped they were

secreting themselves in safety somewhere. Seeing that I was really

ignorant of their fate, he came close up to me, and looking around again

to assure himself that no one was near, he asked, “If I tell you, will

you promise never to betray me?” Having demanded and received an

emphatic promise equivalent to an oath, he drew his hand significantly

across his neck, and whispered, “That is the way.” His gesture was too

well understood in that reign to leave any doubt as to what was meant.

The man had really come on a sad and dangerous errand of kindness. As

soon as it was accomplished, he hurried away, evidently fearing that the

birds of the air might hear it, or that some breeze might waft it to the

palace.

On Monday morning Mr. Wilson and I went again to the Prayā. He could now

no longer lie for his master as to the fact of the execution of the men,

but he offered the flimsy excuse that it was because they had not

brought in their slabs on time. We were then obliged to charge him with

patent falsehood. He knew that they were executed for no crime whatever,

but only for being Christians. Poor man! He seemed somewhat ashamed; but

what could he do? He was not at heart a bad man, as his letter of

protection for the cook showed. The lives of two peasants were no great

matter in those days. He had been so trained to execute every behest of

his master, that it scarcely occurred to him that he ought to hesitate

at this.

But it was some relief to know the worst, and to know that it was known

that we knew it. Before this we had been obliged to feign hopes that we

hardly believed ourselves. Now we could speak openly. The Prince had not

yet returned from his fishing trip; so we went to his elder daughter and

her husband, afterward Prince Intanon. In their position they could not

say much; but they did say that what the Prince had done was not right,

and that they did not approve of the act.

One outcome of the situation was a flood of the wildest rumours—some of

them, no doubt, started on purpose to frighten us away. One of these

touched us in a most tender point. One of our most faithful servants,

who had been with us from the very first, was desirous of visiting

Bangkok. So we arranged to have him go down in charge of a boat that was

to bring up our supplies for the year. By him we sent a large package of

letters written before we had reason to suspect so serious an outcome of

the troubles that were brewing. While we could not conceal some gloomy

forebodings, our reports were, on the whole, full of hope for the speedy

progress of the Gospel. The boat left for Bangkok a few days after the

Prince started on his fishing trip. Presently it was reported that the

boat had been intercepted, and that this man, with his wife, his son,

and his son’s family, even down to a little grandchild of two years old,

had been killed, and the boat broken to pieces and burned.

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