CHAPTER XII

RIVERSIDE MIDDLESEX FROM FULHAM TO HAMPTON COURT

[Sidenote: Fulham]

Although unfortunately much of the romantic beauty that for centuries

distinguished riverside Middlesex has gone for ever, there still remain

here and there picturesque survivals of the long-ago, recalling the

days when it rivalled its opposite neighbour, Surrey, in rural charm.

Some fifty years ago indeed, even Fulham, now indissolubly linked with

London, was a country place, with market gardens sloping down to the

Thames, and fishermen's cottages dotted here and there upon its banks.

The manor of Fulham was given in the seventh century by the Bishop of

Hereford, to whom it then belonged, to the holy St. Erkenwald, Bishop

of London, and its history has ever since been intimately bound up with

that of the Church in southern England. The ancient manor-house, that

was long the favourite residence of St. Erkenwald's successors, is now

represented by the palace, the older portion of which dates from the

fifteenth century, it having been built by Bishop Fitzjames, whose arms

surmount the gateway. In it lived for some time Bishop Ridley, who,

with the equally {269} famous Hugh Latimer, Bishop of Worcester,

suffered death at the stake at Oxford in 1554, for their heretical

opinions, and the no less steadfast Bishop Bonner, who was deprived of

his see for refusing to take the oath of supremacy that meant the

recognition of Queen Elizabeth as the head of the Church. To

Fitzjames's building Bishop Fletcher, father of the famous dramatist,

made considerable additions, including the present library, at one time

used as a chapel, that contains with many valuable manuscripts and

books a number of interesting portraits, such as those of Archbishop

Sandys and Bishops Ridley and Juxon.

Early in the eighteenth century the greater part of the palace at

Fulham was pulled down, and it was not until 1764 that the river front

was rebuilt. The present chapel was added in 1869 by Bishop Tait,

later Archbishop of Canterbury, and from time to time minor alterations

have been made, the new and the old having, however, been so skilfully

dovetailed together that the group of buildings with their encircling

moat present a very harmonious general appearance. The ancient parish

church, the date of the foundation of which is unknown, to which the

charming Bishop's Walk leads from the palace, has also been reverently

treated, the necessary restorations having been made with considerable

care. In the well-kept churchyard rest many bishops and other

celebrities, including Theodore Hook, the talented but dissipated

novelist, who died in poverty and debt in 1841; and here and there

amongst the sea {270} of modern villas and rows of shops that make up

the Fulham of to-day are a few old homesteads that still serve to keep

the past in some slight degree in touch with the present. This is

especially the case in the district of North End, where in a mansion

now divided into two houses Samuel Richardson wrote _Clarissa Harlowe_

and part of _Sir Charles's Grandson_, and where in residences that

cannot now be identified lived at different times W. Wynne Ryland, the

famous line-engraver who was hanged for forgery in 1783, Dr. Crotch,

the musical composer, Edmund Kean, Mrs. Delaney, Jonathan Swift, and

Jacob Tonson.

[Sidenote: Hammersmith]

Even more Londonised than Fulham is its neighbour Hammersmith, the

situation of which, however, on a picturesque reach of the Thames, that

is here spanned by a suspension bridge, still preserves to it a certain

charm. The seventeenth-century church, if not architecturally

beautiful, is in harmony with its surroundings, and though the famous

Brandenburg House, in which Queen Caroline passed away, and the ancient

manor-house of Pullenswick, later known as Ravenscroft, at one time the

home of Alice Ferrers, the heartless mistress of Edward III., have both

been pulled down, the Dove Coffee-house, in which, in a room

overlooking the river, Thomson wrote his beautiful poem of _Winter_,

remains much what it was when it was one of the favourite haunts of the

poet and his kindred spirits, Leigh Hunt, who lived in a little cottage

hard by, and Pope, who often came down from his villa at Twickenham for

{271} a friendly chat. On what is known as the Lower Mall lived many

celebrities when it was the fashionable quarter of Hammersmith,

including the clever engineer Sir Samuel Morland, the trusted friend of

Charles II.; Arthur Murphy the dramatist, Philip de Loutherbourg the

artist, Charles Burney the Greek scholar, and greater than them all,

the poet Coleridge; whilst in the adjoining Upper Mall, now destroyed,

Queen Catherine, the neglected wife of Charles II., resided for some

years after the death of her fickle husband. Later the celebrated Dr.

Ratcliffe, who attended Queen Anne, had a house near by, next door to

which lived the scarcely less noted non-juring Bishop Lloyd of Norwich.

Long a centre of Roman Catholicism, Hammersmith at one time owned an

important Benedictine convent, in which during the French Revolution

many fugitive nuns from France took refuge, and part of the ancient

buildings are now used as a college for priests; whilst the nunnery

itself may be said to be represented by the modern Nazareth House, the

headquarters of the devoted Little Sisters of the Poor.

Strange to say, though Hammersmith has all but lost in the rush and

hurry of the present the impress of the past, its neighbour Chiswick

has to a great extent retained its old-fashioned character. True, it

has lost many of its ancient mansions, such as Chiswick Hall, long a

favourite summer residence of the masters of Westminster School, and

the quaint Red Lion Inn with the whetstone chained to the lintel of the

door, beloved of artists {272} and poets, has been improved away; but

fortunately the house in which Hogarth lived for some years and died

has been preserved, and Chiswick House, long the seat of the Dukes of

Devonshire, now a private lunatic asylum, is still much what it was

more than a century ago. The venerable cedar-trees and antique statues

in its grounds, with the noble entrance gateway designed in 1625 by

Inigo Jones for Beaufort House, and given by Sir Hans Sloane to the

owner of the estate in 1738, preserve to it even at this late day

something of a classic and aristocratic character. Built between 1730

and 1736, on the site of an earlier Jacobean mansion, by the last Earl

of Burlington, who enjoyed some little reputation as an architect

during his lifetime, Chiswick House was greatly enlarged by his

successor, who was fond of holding open-air fêtes in its gardens, which

were almost as celebrated as those at Kew, and were for some years

under the care of the distinguished botanist, Sir Joseph Paxton; but

the mansion itself is now chiefly celebrated for the fact that in it

the two great statesmen, Charles James Fox and George Canning, passed

away, strange to say, in the same room, the former in 1806 the latter

in 1827.

[Illustration: STRAND ON THE GREEN WITH KEW BRIDGE]

The Chiswick Mall, practically a continuation of that of Hammersmith

though divided from it by coal wharves, etc., with its charming views

up and down stream, a picturesque eyot rising from the middle of the

river opposite to it, and the tower of the venerable parish church

looking down upon it, is still one of the most delightful promenades on

the {273} Middlesex side of the Thames. The church, fitly dedicated to

St. Nicolas, the patron-saint of fishermen, who still form a notable

portion of the congregation, is a somewhat uninteresting modern

successor of a very ancient foundation, but it fortunately retains, in

addition to the tower, a few relics of the original nave and chancel,

with several noteworthy monuments, including one to Charles Holland,

the actor, erected by his friend David Garrick, and many inscriptions

to the memory of celebrities who once lived in Chiswick, such as Mary,

Countess of Falconbridge, and her sister Frances, daughters of Oliver

Cromwell, and the famous beauties, Barbara, Duchess of Cleveland, and

Margaret Cecil, Countess of Ranelagh; whilst in the churchyard rest the

artists Hogarth, Philip Loutherbourg, and James M'Neill Whistler, whose

mother is buried beside him; the engravers William Sharp and James

Fittler, the diplomatist Lord Macartney, and the Italian patriot Ugo

Foscolo.

[Sidenote: Strand-on-the-Green]

Connecting Chiswick with Brentford, and keeping up, as it were, the

continuity of the traditions of the past, is the picturesque terrace of

quaint old houses known as Strand-on-the-Green, extending for about

half a mile along the banks of the river, which at high tide often

invades it, washing over the defences that have been from time to time

put up against it. Until about the beginning of the eighteenth century

Strand-on-the-Green was but part of a fishing hamlet, but it gradually

became transformed into a fashionable quarter, stately, well-built

houses--in one of which lived the poet David Mallet, in another {274}

the artist Zoffany, and in another Joe Miller the jester--contrasting

with picturesque cottages, such as the charming group still standing

that were given to the poor in 1724 by a generous citizen, and rubbing

shoulders with ancient inns, some of which are but little altered even

now, and are frequented as of yore by fishermen and boatmen.

[Sidenote: Brentford]

From Strand-on-the-Green the view of the Thames is no less fascinating

than that from Hammersmith and Chiswick Malls, for even at low tide,

when gleaming stretches of mud line the banks on either side, the

colour effects are charming. Higher up, too, where the little river

Brent--that with the Brentford Canal forms part of a great system of

inland waterways--flows into the Thames, a touch of poetry still

lingers, in spite of the fact that the once beautiful village named

after the ancient ford has become one of the most prosaic of the

Middlesex suburbs. The three-arched bridge that spanned the Brent a

little above its mouth, at which a toll used to be levied on all cattle

and merchandise and all Jews and Jewesses crossing it on foot or on

horseback, though Christians were allowed to pass over free, is

replaced by a modern one with but one arch; the house in which the

notorious Noy, chancellor to Charles IL, decided on the re-imposition

of the hated ship-tax has been pulled down; the ancient market-hall,

with its high-pitched roof, that had been the scene of many a hotly

contested election, and in which resounded during the riots of 1769 the

cry of 'Wilkes and Liberty!' was pulled down in 1850 to make way for

the present {275} town-hall, and a little later its fate was shared by

the famous half-timbered hostelry of the Three Pigeons, that may

possibly have been visited by Shakespeare when it was tenanted by one

of the actors in his company, John Lowen. Vanished, too, is the house

in which John Bunyan lived at the beginning of his crusade against vice

in high places; but here and there, in what is still known as the Half

Acre district, that is intimately associated with the memory of the

author of the _Pilgrim's Progress_, and also in the modern High Street,

a few ancient tenements, with lofty, many-gabled roofs, survive to bear

witness to olden times. Moreover, about half a mile from what is now

known as New Brentford, though it is really more venerable than the

rest of the town, is another link with the past: Burton House, a

mansion occupying the site of the manor-house of Burston, or Budeston,

that belonged before the suppression of the monasteries to St. Helen's,

Bishopsgate, and was later owned by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester.

[Illustration: THE CANAL, BRENTFORD]

Brentford has more than once figured conspicuously in the history of

England. Near to it, for instance, King Edmund Ironsides defeated the

Danes in 1016, and in it a few days after the victory the gallant Saxon

king was treacherously murdered. More than six hundred years later the

town, then at the zenith of its prosperity, was besieged by Prince

Rupert, and the parliamentary garrison driven out with great loss; but

all too soon, in the opinion of the inhabitants, who were staunch

partisans of the king, the tide turned again. Reinforcements {276}

arrived from London and encamped on the then open space of Turnham

Green; Charles, who had started from Kingston to join Prince Rupert,

was compelled to draw back, and presently Oliver Cromwell himself,

fresh from victory, marched through Brentford in triumph.

After the Restoration Charles II. was several times in Brentford. Nell

Gwynn is said to have lived there for some little time, as did also

George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, a member of the infamous Cabal

Ministry, who was the first to celebrate in literature the two kings of

Brentford, whom he introduced in his comedy of the _Rehearsal_, a

parody on one of Dryden's tragedies written in 1671. Who these kings

were when they lived, or even if they ever existed, neither tradition

nor history has attempted to prove, but in the _Rehearsal_ they figure

as close friends, who appear on the stage hand in hand, and reign

amicably together till they are deposed by two equally united usurpers.

Brentford owns two important churches, one dedicated to St. George,

founded in 1770, with nothing very distinctive about it but containing

a painting of the Last Supper by Zoffany, presented by the artist; the

other, named after St. Lawrence, built in the eighteenth century on to

the tower of a much earlier place of worship. Chancellor Noy, whose

house was close by, is buried in it, and it is associated with the

memory of John Horne Tooke, who was curate of it from 1760 to 1773,

before his meeting with John Wilkes led to his abandonment of the

clerical profession.

{277}

As the chief marketing-place of the barge population, whose women, in

their picturesque sun-bonnets and rough-and-ready costumes, may often

be seen hurrying through its streets, the old town on the Brent is

still to some extent in touch with rural England; but from the adjacent

Ealing, that is its parent parish, and from its dependencies Acton and

Gunnersbury, all individual character seems to have been eliminated,

little remaining to recall the days when the manor-house of Ealing was

one of the outlying residences of the Bishop of London, and the whole

neighbourhood was dotted with the country seats of the great nobles.

Acton, the name of which signifies the oak-town, now a singular

misnomer, was once the proud owner of a fashionable spa, but is now

chiefly given over to washerwomen; and Gunnersbury, the history of

which can be traced back to Saxon times, for it is named after Gunyld,

a niece of King Canute, has lost nearly all its historic landmarks,

though the modern Gunnersbury House, on the site of a mansion designed

by Inigo Jones, once occupied by Princess Amelia, preserves to it a

certain distinction.

[Sidenote: Greenford Parva]

Very different from Brentford, Ealing, Acton, or Gunnersbury is the not

distant Greenford Parva, that, though it is scarcely more than eight

miles from Hyde Park Corner, is still, and seems likely to remain, one

of the most secluded-looking spots in suburban Middlesex. Romantically

situated in the valley of the Brent in the midst of beautiful meadows,

the hamlet of Greenford Parva, the name {278} of which, now condensed

into Perivale, is said to signify the green ford in the pure vale,

consists of but a few farms and cottages, but it prides itself on the

possession of a church of its own, a quaint little building of unknown

dedication, uncertain date, and doubtful style, with a narrow nave, a

yet smaller chancel, in the south-west corner of which is a tiny

hagioscope, and a square wooden tower, surmounted by a low spire.

Within this primitive structure, one of the smallest places of worship

in England, is an old font, the lid of which bears the date 1665, and

some very ancient stained glass has been skilfully dovetailed into the

comparatively modern windows.

[Illustration: PERIVALE CHURCH]

About two miles away from Perivale, in the same valley, is the scarcely

less interesting Greenford Magna, also named after a ford on the Brent.

Given by King Ethelred to the monks of the ancient monastery that

preceded Edward the Confessor's foundation at Westminster, the manor of

Greenford Magna remained the property of the latter until the

dissolution of the monasteries, when it was confiscated by Henry VIII.,

by whom it was given somewhat later to the see of London, to which it

still belongs. Its fourteenth-century church, dedicated to the Holy

Cross, occupies the site of a Saxon chapel, and greatly resembles that

of Perivale in style. It was well restored in 1871, when some of the

fifteenth-century glass was successfully incorporated in the new

windows, and it contains several well-preserved sixteenth and

seventeenth century brasses.

{279}

[Sidenote: West Twyford]

Rivalling the two Greenfords in the romantic beauty of its situation is

the little hamlet of West Twyford (so called to distinguish it from the

comparatively commonplace village of East Twyford in the neighbouring

parish of Willesden), situated partly on the Brent and partly on the

Paddington Canal, at a spot where the river makes a very sudden bend.

As its name implies, there were in ancient times two fords across the

Brent that, according to tradition, were much used by the monks of the

monastery that occupied the site of the mansion now known as Twyford

Abbey, though there is absolutely no historic proof that any religious

house ever existed there. A moated manor-house there certainly was,

however, which was pulled down early in the nineteenth century, and

there seems little doubt that on the site of the barn-like church of

uncertain date was a much earlier chapel--possibly Norman--the property

having been held in the eleventh century by the Dean and Chapter of St.

Paul's, who may have owned a clergy-house for the officiating priests.

Strange to say, the little sanctuary, now included in the see of

London, after changing hands with the manor to which it was attached

again and again, long occupied the position of belonging to no parish.

It was apparently overlooked when the new ecclesiastical survey was

made, and until quite recently it had no incumbent, the owner of

Twyford Abbey paying for the services held in it, and when he let his

house stipulating that his tenant should provide a clergyman for six

Sundays in the year.

{280}

[Sidenote: Sion House]

Within easy reach of Brentford, in the neighbouring parish of Keston,

is Oesterley Park, with the famous mansion named after it built by Sir

Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange, who more than once

entertained Queen Elizabeth in it, and which was later owned by the

wealthy London merchant, Sir Thomas Child, whose son Robert added two

sumptuously decorated wings to it, and formed the nucleus of a fine

collection of pictures by the old masters. More interesting than

Oesterley House is the celebrated Syon or Sion House, standing in a

charming park between Brentford and Isleworth, and occupying the site

of a convent of the same name that belonged to a community of

Brigittines, a branch of the Augustinian Order founded by St. Bridget

of Sweden. This was one of the religious houses endowed, as already

related in connection with Richmond, by Henry V. in expiation of his

father's usurpation of the English throne, the foundation-stone having

been laid by the king himself in 1431. It was originally situated in

Twickenham, but soon became far too small for the accommodation of the

many holy women who craved admission, and Henry VI. sanctioned the

removal of the nuns to a larger house in Isleworth parish, the

possession of which was secured to them by Act of Parliament. When or

by whom the predecessor of the present Sion House was built is not

known, but it is supposed to have been erected at the expense of the

Brigittines themselves, who had been joined by many wealthy ladies, and

it eventually became one of the richest religious {281} communities of

southern England. Many stories are told of the devotion of the

sisters, and also, alas! of the decline of piety amongst them as time

went on, rumours having even been circulated of gross misconduct

amongst them. These were probably, however, mere idle tales purposely

spread about by enemies; but there is little doubt that the downfall of

the community was hastened by its abbess's espousal of the cause of the

so-called Holy Maid of Kent, against whom Henry VIII. was bitterly

incensed. In any case, Syon Monastery was one of the first of the

great religious houses to be suppressed, and it was turned to account

by the king in 1541 as a prison for Catherine Howard whilst her mock

trial was going on. By a strange irony of fate her husband's body

rested in the chapel--in which she had often prayed during the last few

days of her life--on its way to be interred at Windsor, and, according

to a gruesome tradition, blood suddenly flowed from it, a proof in

popular belief that the queen had been unjustly condemned, and that

Henry was indeed her murderer.

The nunnery of Sion and the manor of Isleworth were given by Edward VI.

to the Protector Somerset, who at once pulled down the conventual

buildings, using the materials for the foundation of the present

mansion, that was still uncompleted when its owner's career was cut

short by his attainder for high treason. The property then reverted to

the Crown, and in 1553 it was given by the young king to John Dudley,

Duke of Northumberland, who had been mainly responsible for the

downfall of the Protector. The {282} duke seems to have finished the

work of his predecessor, for soon after he took possession of Sion

House his son, Lord Robert Dudley, brought home to it his bride, the

ill-fated Lady Jane Grey; and it was there that the crown was offered

to her on the death of Edward VI. Thence the nine days' queen started

by river in a state barge, attended only by a few adherents, on her

fatal journey to the Tower, whence four months later she was led forth

to execution, after having looked down from her window on the mangled

remains of her husband as they were being carried away to their last

resting-place.

After the death on the scaffold of the Duke of Northumberland Sion

House once more reverted to the Crown, and Queen Mary gave it back to

the Brigittines, but few of them cared to return to their transformed

old home; and two years later even those few were driven forth again by

Queen Elizabeth, who lent the house first to one and then another of

her favourites. In 1604 the estate was granted by James I. to Henry

Percy, Earl of Northumberland, who nearly lost it through his

complicity in the Gunpowder Plot, for which he suffered many years'

imprisonment and had to pay a fine of £11,000. He returned to Sion

House only a short time before his death, bequeathing it to his son,

Algernon Percy, who was made guardian of the children of Charles I.,

the Dukes of York and Gloucester and the little Princess Elizabeth, who

died the year of her father's execution. The royal prisoners, for such

they were, appear to have been very happy in their Isleworth retreat,

for they were {283} often allowed to go and see their father at Hampton

Court, and it was not until they were taken to London to bid him

farewell, just before his death, that they realised how terrible was

their own position.

By the marriage between Lady Elizabeth Percy and Charles Seymour, Duke

of Somerset, Sion House became the property of the latter, and during

his ownership it was lent for a time to the Princess Anne, later Queen

of England, who there gave birth to a son who lived for an hour only,

one of her seventeen children, none of whom grew up. The son of

Charles Seymour gave Sion House to his daughter Elizabeth in 1748, and

her husband, Sir Hugh Smithson, having been created Duke of

Northumberland, it passed back to the old earldom, and has ever since

remained in the same family. It was the new duke who gave to the

historic mansion the character that now distinguishes it, for he made

considerable alterations and additions, entrusting the work to the then

renowned architect, Robert Adam, who is said to have consulted Sir

Horace Walpole, then living at Twickenham, on the subject of the

internal decorations. The gardens, originally laid out by the

Protector Somerset, and greatly improved by later owners, were still

further enriched with rare plants; hothouses and conservatories were

built, and the estate was converted into one of the most charming on

the Thames, beautiful lawns, shaded by venerable trees, sloping down to

the waterside. The massive quadrangular mansion, with a square tower

at each corner, and a noble {284} parapet, the eastern front surmounted

by the venerable stone lion, the badge of the Percy family, that was

long a familiar figure on the Strand front of the now demolished

Northumberland House, rises up in quiet dignity from the park which,

though it has none of the varied scenery of its rival at Richmond, is

full of quiet charm.

[Sidenote: Marble Hill]

In addition to Sion House Isleworth still owns a few historic mansions,

including Gumley House, named after a seventeenth-century owner;

Shrewsbury House, once the home of Charles Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury,

both now convent schools; and Kendal House, long a noted place of

entertainment, the last some little distance from the river, on the

road to Twickenham. The church, said to have been designed by Sir

Christopher Wren, though his plans were modified to save expense, is

finely situated on a terrace looking down upon the Thames, and a wooded

islet, presenting quite a picturesque appearance, especially when

barges and other craft are waiting to be taken up or down stream by the

tide. A little above Isleworth is the half-lock that has added so

greatly to the usefulness of the upper river as a highway of traffic,

and also to the healthiness of the districts on either side by keeping

the mud constantly under water. Looking down upon it on the Middlesex

side is the somewhat uninteresting suburb of St. Margaret's, occupying

the site of the seat of the Marquis of Ailsa; and a little higher up

stream is the beautiful park called Marble Hill, after the mansion

still standing on it, that was bought in 1903 for the use of the public

by the London {285} County Council, aided by many private subscribers,

including Sir Max Waechter, already mentioned in connection with the

purchase of Petersham Ait. Marble Hill mansion is supposed to have

been built in 1723 by Mrs. Howard, one of Queen Caroline's

ladies-in-waiting, later Countess of Suffolk, after the designs of Lord

Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, on a portion of the grounds of the

neighbouring Orleans House, half the expense having been borne by

George II. when he was still Prince of Wales. In laying out the

grounds the owner had the benefit of the advice of Pope, then living at

Twickenham, and also of Dean Swift, at that time in the service of Sir

William Temple at Sheen, who is said to have prophesied that Mrs.

Howard would certainly be ruined by her lavish outlay. That she was

not is proved by the fact that she died at Marble Hill, leaving a

fortune behind her; and later her old home was occupied by Mrs.

Fitzherbert, who is said by some authorities to have been married in it

to the Prince of Wales, later George IV., though others assert that the

ceremony took place in her house in Park Lane. However that may be,

she was certainly at her riverside home in 1795 when the wedding of her

lover with the Princess Caroline of Brunswick took place, and she there

held a little court of those loyal friends who believed in the legality

of her union to the king.

[Illustration: ISLEWORTH]

Most picturesquely situated opposite the famous Petersham meadows and

the no less celebrated Eel Pie Island, the resort on summer evenings of

hundreds of pleasure-seekers, Twickenham, the {286} name of which is

supposed to have reference to the two streams that here flow into the

Thames, was originally a hamlet of Isleworth that belonged, before the

Conquest, partly to a monastery at Hounslow, and partly to the monks of

Christchurch Abbey, Canterbury. On the suppression of the monasteries

the property was added by Henry VIII. to the Hampton Court demesne; and

later Charles I. gave the manor to Queen Henrietta Maria, to whom,

after its temporary alienation by Parliament, it was restored on the

accession of Charles II. The so-called manor-house of Twickenham, also

known as Aragon Tower, occupies the site of an earlier building in

which, according to tradition, Katharine of Aragon resided after her

divorce; but the home of the Saxon owners of the property is supposed

to have been in Twickenham Park, now built over, some authorities

asserting that William the Conqueror himself lived in it for a short

time. Whether this be true or not, there was not far from the first

Sion House a mansion that belonged in the later sixteenth century to

Lord Bacon, who entertained Queen Elizabeth in it in 1592. The

brilliant prose writer was deeply attached to his Twickenham home, and

grieved greatly when in 1601 he was compelled to sell it to meet his

pressing necessities, receiving, it is said, only £1800 for it. During

the next three centuries it changed hands again and again, and in 1803

its owner had it pulled down and sold the estate in plots for building.

Its fate was later shared by many another historic home, but Cambridge

House, named after the poet Richard {287} Owen Cambridge, who occupied

it for some years in the early nineteenth century, Orleans and York

Houses still remain to bear witness to the days when Twickenham was an

aristocratic suburb. The former is named after Louis-Philippe, who

occupied it for some time when he was Duke of Orleans; the latter was

for some time the property of Lord Clarendon, who settled it on his

daughter, Anne Hyde, when she became the wife of James, Duke of York;

and in it were born the Princesses Mary and Anne, who were both to

become Queens of England.

A little higher up stream is a modern villa popularly known as Pope's,

though as a matter of fact the house beloved of the poet, on which he

lavished a fortune, was pulled down in 1807, and all that now remains

to recall the time of his ownership is the subterranean passage leading

from its grounds to the Teddington Road, that was once lined with an

ornate shell grotto. It is fortunately far otherwise with the equally

celebrated home of Horace Walpole, known as Strawberry Hill, that

stands a little back from the river between Twickenham and Teddington,

for though certain details have been modified it still retains the

general appearance it presented when first completed by its owner.

Originally a mere cottage, the future Strawberry Hill was bought by

Walpole in 1747 from a certain Mrs. Chevenix, and the best years of the

famous letter writer's life were spent in superintending its adornment.

The guests he received at Twickenham included pretty well all the

celebrities of the day, {288} and his most important publications were

issued from his private printing-press there. When on the death, in

1791, of his eldest brother's only son, he became Earl of Orford, he

refused to take the title, preferring to remain plain Horace Walpole of

Strawberry Hill; and before his death, which took place six years

later, he bequeathed his beloved home to the sculptor Mrs. Damer in the

hope that she would respect its traditions. In 1811 it became the

property of the Dowager-Countess of Waldegrave, and since then it has

changed hands several times, passing through various vicissitudes of

neglect and restoration.

[Sidenote: Twickenham]

The parish church of Twickenham must have originally been a very

picturesque feature of the village, and the ancient battlemented tower

still presents a charming appearance from the river; but on to it was

built, in the early eighteenth century, a barnlike red-brick structure

that harmonises very ill with it, and is said to have been designed by

Sir Godfrey Kneller, then churchwarden, who lived in a house near

by--still known as Kneller Hall, now the Royal Military School of

Music--and is buried beneath the central aisle, his contemporary Pope

resting not far from him. Amongst the monuments in the church is one

erected by the latter to the memory of his parents, which Lady Kneller

tried in vain to persuade the poet to remove after the death of her

husband, to make room for a memorial she wished to put up in his

honour; and on the outer wall are some interesting tablets, including

one to the famous comic actress Kitty Clive, who lived {289} in a

cottage belonging to Horace Walpole called Little Strawberry Hill,

later occupied by the Misses Berry, to whom it was bequeathed for their

lifetime, and one to the beloved nurse of Pope, bearing the following

touching inscription: 'To the memory of Mary Beach, who died November

25th, 1725, aged 75, Alexander Pope, whom she nursed in his infancy,

and constantly attended for twenty-eight years, in gratitude to a

faithful servant, erected this stone.'

Little now remains in the populous modern suburb of Twickenham to

recall the days when Dickens wrote in it his romance of _Oliver Twist_,

certain scenes of which are laid at Isleworth, and the great artist

Turner lived in Sandelcombe Lodge, that was recently sold by auction,

fetching £865, but the view up and down stream is still practically the

same as it was a century ago. The short reach between Strawberry Hill

and Teddington Lock is one of the most beautiful on the Thames,

charming alike when deserted but for a few barges being quanted slowly

along, and when crowded with pleasure craft. Specially fascinating are

the scenes that take place below the lock, when electric launches,

skiffs, and punts, full of gaily dressed women and men in boating

costume, await their turn for the opening of the gates; at the Rollers,

and in the quiet pool above them, specially beloved of fishermen, that

contrasts forcibly with the noisy weir, the foam-flecked rush of water

forming a striking background to the groups of yachts and wherries

moored to the Middlesex bank and beneath the Suspension Bridge.

{290}

It is to its lock and its near vicinity to Bushey Park and Hampton

Court that Teddington owes its ever-increasing prosperity. In Saxon

times, when its name--the meaning of which is obscure, for the

suggestion that it signifies the Tide-end Town is untenable--was spelt

Totyngton, it was a mere hamlet of Staines, yet the honour of having

been its original manor-house has been claimed for three mansions, each

of which is said to have served as a hunting-lodge to Queen Elizabeth.

Only one of these is still standing, that built by Lord Buckhurst some

years after the maiden queen had passed away; and the more famous

residences at one time occupied by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester,

and the noted Quaker William Penn, who in 1688 dated his protest

against being called a Papist from Teddington, have also been pulled

down; whilst of the parish church, in which the latter may often have

worshipped, the only relic is the sixteenth-century southern aisle, the

rest of the building dating from the eighteenth century. It contains,

however, a few interesting monuments, including one to the faithful

servant of Charles I., Sir Orlando Bridgman, who represented his doomed

master at the signing of the Treaty of Utrecht; and on one of the walls

is a tablet to the memory of the famous beauty, Peg Woffington, who,

after her tragic breakdown when acting as Rosalind in 1757, retired to

Teddington, where she died three years later.

[Illustration: BUSHEY PARK]

[Sidenote: Bushey Park]

The riverside scenery above Teddington, especially near the long

picturesque island opposite Thames Ditton, is very charming, and away

from {291} the water is the beautiful Bushey Park, that rivals in

popularity even its neighbour of Hampton Court. Long jealously

reserved for the use of its royal owners, the estate, which is more

than eleven hundred acres in extent, has been open to the public since

1752, when a certain Timothy Bennet, a local shoemaker, succeeded, by

dint of dogged persistence, of winning a free passage through it for

ever, or, to be more strictly accurate, in obtaining the restoration of

ancient rights that had been filched away. The story goes that Bennet,

who, as he sat at work in his shop, had been in the habit of watching

the number of pedestrians who passed through the park on their way to

and from Kingston, was moved to bitter indignation when he learned that

the gates had been closed by order of the ranger, Lord Halifax. He

consulted a lawyer, declaring that he would gladly spend all his

savings, which amounted to about £700, to win back the old privilege,

and was told that all that was needed was for him 'to try the right.'

A notice was therefore served on the ranger, who summoned Timothy

before him, thinking to overawe him easily, but the shoemaker's rough

eloquence so won upon the great man that the latter, in spite of all

the opposition of the lawyers on the side of the Crown, ordered the

road through the park to be reopened, and it has never since been

closed.

The chief glory of Bushey Park is the triple avenue of horse-chestnuts,

more than a mile long, that was planted by William III., who longed to

reproduce in England some of the characteristics {292} of his native

land. When in full bloom the trees present an appearance of unique

beauty, crowds from far and near flocking to see them, but even at

other times the park is full of charm, forming one of the most

delightful recreation-grounds near London. The rangership, long a

coveted appointment, was at one time held by Lord North, the minister

whose fatal policy brought about the American War of Independence; and

later the Lodge, a substantial red-brick building near the Teddington

entrance, was the residence of William IV. when Duke of Clarence.

The twin villages of Hampton Wick and Hampton, the former below, the

latter above, the riverside grounds of Hampton Court, have little that

is distinctive about them in spite of their exceptionally beautiful

situation, looking down upon the Thames, which is here dotted with

picturesque islets. Hampton Wick prides itself on having been for some

years the home of the famous essayist Sir Richard Steele, who dated

from what he called his hovel in it the dedication of the fourth volume

of _The Tatler_ to Lord Halifax, first ranger of Bushey Park, and

builder of the Lodge referred to above. Hampton glories in still

owning the house beloved of David Garrick, who often withdrew to it for

rest between 1754 and 1779, receiving in it as his guests Horace

Walpole, Dr. Johnson, and many other distinguished men, whom he used to

entertain with night-fêtes in the grounds.

[Sidenote: Hampton Court]

In Hampton Court the romantic interest of outlying London may perhaps

be said to culminate, for {293} no other place within easy reach of the

capital is associated with quite so many thrilling memories, or has

retained, in spite of all alterations, an equal number of the

characteristic features of its evolution. In the quiet courts and

cloisters overlooked by the picturesque gables and turrets of Wolsey's

building, and in the beautiful gardens in which the anxious minister so

often paced to and fro pondering over the many problems that harassed

him, his spirit still seems to linger; the magnificent hall of Henry

vili., in which took place so many stately banquets and gorgeous

ceremonies, and the richly decorated chapel in which two of the

despotic monarch's marriages were solemnised, appear to be haunted by

the ghosts of his murdered wives, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, and

of the scarcely less ill-fated Jane Seymour, who paid with her life for

the birth of the long-desired heir to the throne, and is said to be

unable to rest in her grave because of her remorse for having been the

cause of the execution of her predecessor. Now the young monarch,

Edward VI., and his stern guardian, the Protector Somerset, loom forth

from the dim past, and behind them the imagination conjures up the

shadowy form of Mrs. Penn, who on the death of the infant prince's

mother was chosen to be his nurse, and was greatly beloved not only by

him, but by his father and sisters. Henry VIII. gave her an estate in

the country, but she attended her foster-son wherever he went, and

after his early death she resided in apartments reserved to her at

Hampton Court, till she too passed away. She was buried in {294} the

parish church of Hampton, a full-length recumbent effigy portrait

surmounting her tomb, that is still preserved in the modern Gothic

building replacing an earlier place of worship; but her grave has been

rifled of its contents, and since the desecration took place she has

been supposed to haunt her old rooms, and many have asserted that they

have seen her groping along in them with outstretched hands as if

seeking for some lost treasure. To these phantoms succeed those of

Edward's melancholy sister Mary and of her sombre bridegroom Philip,

who repells her ardent expressions of affection with forbidding

coldness, the ill-assorted pair in their turn giving place to the

stately maiden queen Elizabeth and her train of richly garbed

courtiers, all vying with each other in their eagerness to prove their

devotion to her person. Again the scene changes, and the hapless

Charles I. comes forth, closely attended by his guards, to walk for the

last time round the precincts of the palace that has served as his

prison, where but a little later his arch-enemy, Cromwell, was to reign

supreme. Now a wedded pair as ill-assorted as Philip and Mary, Charles

II. and the childless Catherine of Braganza, hold their court in the

historic building, that was in the reign of William III. to be enlarged

and redecorated, assuming much the appearance it now presents, for the

Georges did little to alter it, and it has not been used as a royal

residence since 1795.

In the time of Edward the Confessor the manor of Hamntone, as it was

then called, was owned by {295} the Saxon Earl Algar, and in the

Doomsday Survey it is referred to as the property of the Norman, Walter

de St. Valeric, its value being assessed at £39. It remained in the

possession of the same family for a century and a half, after which it

passed to Henry de St. Albans, who either presented or let it to the

Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, then one of the most

powerful religious communities of Europe, by whom it was held until

1514, when the then prior, Sir Thomas Docwra, granted a ninety-nine

years' lease of it to 'The Most Rev. Father in God, Thomas Wolsey,

Archbishop of Canterbury,' at a yearly rent of £50. Before that

all-important event in its history, however, the property had become

greatly increased by gifts of land and money, and was already known as

Hampton Court, the word court signifying, as is sometimes overlooked,

merely that part of an estate in which the owner lives. That the

Knights Hospitallers had a residence of some importance is proved by

the fact that they occasionally received as their guests various

members of the royal family, who, as early as the fourteenth century,

showed a great predilection for Hampton. Many pilgrims, too, flocked

from long distances to worship in the little chapel connected with the

priory, that was credited with special sanctity, and to it in 1503 came

Elizabeth of York, wife of Henry VII., to pray for the safe delivery of

her expected child, and to spend a quiet week in retreat before

returning by water to Richmond, where she died a month later.

The Knights Hospitallers had scarcely left their {296} old home before

the new owner began to pull it down, to make way for a building which

he determined should rival in magnificence every other private

residence in the kingdom. The grounds of the ancient manor-house,

hitherto mere grazing lands, were converted into a park and enclosed

within a massive red-brick wall bearing here and there a cross in black

bricks, the emblem of the cardinal-archbishop, two or three of which

still remain in spite of Henry VIII.'s orders, given as soon as he took

possession of the property, that every trace of its having once

belonged to the fallen minister should be removed. The site of the

future palace and its gardens was encircled by a deep moat, traces of

which can be made out on the northern side, an elaborate system of

drainage was established, and a constant supply of pure water secured

from the springs at Coombe Hill, three miles away, Wolsey proving

himself far in advance of his time in his knowledge of sanitary

science. The healthiness of his retreat thus secured, the work of

building went on apace, a whole army of surveyors, architects,

builders, and masons, etc.,--from amongst whom emerge the names of

James Bettes master, Lawrence Stubbs paymaster, Nicolas Tounley

comptroller of the works, and the Rev. Mr. Williams decorator,--toiling

continuously under the superintendence of Wolsey himself, who was able

to receive the king and queen for the first time in May 1516, when the

royal party were entertained with all manner of pageants, masques, and

mummeries, in some of which Henry himself took a prominent part.

{297}

The next few years were the happiest in the cardinal's life. He was

still the king's most trusted servant, the master of boundless wealth,

and no shadow from the melancholy future had as yet fallen across his

path. Whenever he was able to get away from London, he hastened to his

beloved home at Hampton, on which he continued to lavish vast sums of

money, constantly adding to its art treasures, and causing his own

apartments--several of which, including that known as his closet,

remain as they were when occupied by him--to be decorated by the best

artificers of the day.

It is, unfortunately, impossible now to determine the exact limits of

Wolsey's buildings, but they appear to have occupied much the same area

as those now standing, which include the additions of Henry VIII. and

William III., so that they form a kind of epitome of domestic

architecture from Tudor to Renaissance times. It is certain, however,

that the west front and the utter or outer court with the clock tower,

beneath which are the cardinal's arms in terra-cotta that somehow

escaped Henry's jealous zeal, were entirely the work of Wolsey, and it

must have been at the western gateway that he received his many royal

and noble guests. At which date this beautiful residence was

transferred by its builder to his exacting sovereign, who from the

first seems to have greatly coveted it, is not known, but it is

generally supposed to have been in 1525 or 1526 that the oft-told

incident occurred, when Henry asked Wolsey why he had built himself so

magnificent a house, to which with outer calmness but a sinking {298}

heart the cardinal replied, 'To show how noble a palace a subject may

offer to his sovereign.' The gift was of course at once accepted, but

the doomed minister was allowed to remain practically master of Hampton

Court for some time longer, as proved by the fact that in 1527 he there

received with great magnificence the French ambassador and his retinue,

and that in 1528 he invited Archbishop Warham to spend a few days with

him. As late, indeed, as 1529 Henry and Katharine of Aragon were again

his guests, but before the year was over he had left his beloved home

for ever. In August of that year the king took formal possession of

the palace, accompanied not only by the queen, but by Anne Boleyn, for

whom a beautiful suite of rooms had been set apart which she had long

since chosen. Very soon the appearance of the palace was completely

transformed, Henry's chief desire having apparently been to destroy

everything that could remind him of the man he had once loved so well

and trusted so entirely. A magnificent new hall with a beautiful

hammer-beam roof replaced the one in which Wolsey had so often

entertained his ungrateful master, a new chapel, new galleries, and new

suites of apartments were built, the work going merrily on in spite of

all the exciting events that were taking place in the rest of the

palace. Hampton Court soon knew Katharine of Aragon no more, and Anne

Boleyn, who had given birth in it to a still-born son, was succeeded by

Jane Seymour, the change of queen making no difference in the daily

routine, though the king gave orders for the initials A.B. to be {299}

changed to J.S. in the decorations of his wife's private apartments.

Edward VI. was born, and his mother died in 1537, the former event

being made the excuse for fresh expenditure on rooms for the infant

prince, whilst the latter affected the widower but little, though he

left Hampton Court before the funeral, declaring that he could not bear

to be present at it. For some little time after the death of Jane

Seymour the palace served chiefly as a nursery for the heir to the

throne, and in 1540 Anne of Cleves resided in it for a short time

whilst contentedly awaiting her divorce; but as soon as it was obtained

she withdrew to Richmond, and the king brought home to Hampton Court

his new bride, Catherine Howard, who really seemed likely long to

retain his affection. From their beautiful riverside home the newly

married pair started on an extended wedding trip, returning to keep

Christmas at the palace, but before that festival came round again the

enemies of Catherine had managed to poison her husband's mind against

her. It was on All Souls' Day, 1541, when the king and queen were at

mass in the chapel, that Cranmer secretly handed to the former a paper

containing, it is said, convincing proof of Catherine's unfaithfulness,

and with his usual impetuosity Henry at once decided to get rid of her.

The unfortunate lady was ordered to withdraw to her own apartments, a

strict guard was placed over her, and early the next morning the king

rode away determined never to see her again. The story goes that in

spite of the vigilance of her attendants Catherine managed to elude

them all and {300} to intercept her husband as he was leaving his

bedroom, but he sternly refused to listen to her, and she was dragged

away weeping and wringing her hands. Yet once more, in 1543, the king

brought a bride to Hampton Court, the staid and tactful Catherine Parr,

who managed successfully to play the rôle of mother to the three

children of her predecessors, and, until her husband died, even to keep

the peace with him.

During the last few years of his life Henry was constantly at the

palace, and when he became too infirm to hunt at a distance he quietly

set about enclosing within the boundaries of his Honour of Hampton a

vast tract of country on the Surrey side of the river, taking in many

manors and villages, including East and West Molesey, stocking the

commons, meadows, and pastures with 'beasts of venery and fowls of

warren,' and appointing officers to ensure the punishment of any who

should offend against the laws of the chase, which were to be the same

as those governing the ancient forests belonging to the Crown. To this

very high-handed proceeding the owners of the property were compelled

to submit, but after the death of the king his son had the enclosures

taken down and the 'beasts of venery' removed, reserving the right,

however, of restoring them at any future time, so that technically the

lands in question still belong to the Crown.

Though Edward VI. and Queen Mary were both a good deal at Hampton

Court, it was not until the reign of Queen Elizabeth that it was again

the scene of such pageants as had been of constant occurrence {301}

during the reign of their father. The maiden queen, however, was

greatly attached to it, often holding her court there, and it was in

its great hall that the council met on October 30, 1568, which

practically decided the fate of Mary, Queen of Scots, though it was not

until December 4 of the same year, the day after a second consultation,

when the Regent James, Earl of Murray, gave to the Queen of England the

fatal casket containing the letters and poems that were supposed to

prove his sister's guilt, that Elizabeth felt free to pronounce her

doom.

In the reign of James I. the most important event that took place at

Hampton Court was the meeting of the conference between the

representatives of the Established Church and the Presbyterians, at

which the king was said by the former to have greatly distinguished

himself by his eloquence, whilst the latter dwelt angrily on his

plausible duplicity, that really had a good deal to do with the

inauguration of the troubles that finally brought his son to the

scaffold. As is well known, Charles I. greatly loved Hampton Court; he

was there for a short time after his accession with his newly wedded

queen, then a mere child, and it was there, too, many years afterwards,

that he had his last real intercourse with his children, who, as

already related, were often allowed to visit him when they were living

at Sion House under the care of the guardian appointed by the

Parliament. Thence, alarmed by rumours of a plot against his life, the

unfortunate king escaped on November 11, 1647, first to Oatlands and

then to the Isle of Wight.

{302}

Whilst he was Lord Protector of England, Cromwell often resided at

Hampton Court; in its chapel his beloved daughter Mary was married in

1657 to Viscount Falconbridge, and in one of its rooms her sister, Mrs.

Claypole, died in 1658, after a short illness, to the bitter grief of

her father, who had her body taken by river to Westminster, to be

buried with almost regal pomp in Westminster Abbey. Her loss was

indeed the death-blow of the harassed ruler, for though he lived three

months longer he was never the same again. He was removed in a dying

state from Hampton Court to Whitehall, and after he had passed away it

was decided that the palace should be sold and its contents dispersed.

Fortunately, however, the historic building escaped that fate, but

though it was several times occupied by Charles II. and James II., it

was not until the accession of William III. that it again played any

important part in the history of England. From the first the newly

elected monarch and his wife showed a very special predilection for

their estate at Hampton, and Sir Christopher Wren was soon commissioned

to add to the palace an extensive group of buildings that now, with the

great hall of Henry VIII., form its most important features.

Unfortunately Wren's alterations necessitated the pulling down of two

of Wolsey's courts, that had been spared by the cardinal's royal

supplanter, but in spite of this it must be conceded that the famous

architect triumphantly achieved a most difficult task, for the

magnificent state apartments designed by him, though in a totally

different style from that of the {303} earlier buildings, are yet not

out of harmony with them.

Later, the grounds were as completely transformed as the Tudor palace

itself had been. The fine terrace known as the Broad Walk was made,

many new fountains were added to those already in the gardens, the

still popular Maze or Labyrinth was planted, the beautiful gate called

the Flower-Pot--from the baskets of flowers upheld by boys on the stone

piers flanking it--was erected, and the yet more effective wrought-iron

screens designed by Jean Tijou, a Frenchman in the employ of Sir

Christopher Wren, recently, after various wanderings, restored to their

original position, were set up at the riverside end of what is known as

the Priory Garden, separating it from the towing-path.

Soon after their first arrival at Hampton Court William and Mary

received as their guest the Princess Anne, daughter of the exiled James

II., who had been married in 1683 to Prince George of Denmark. As

heir-presumptive of the English throne, the princess was very cordially

disliked by the king and queen, whose jealousy was greater than ever

when, on July 4, 1689, she gave birth to a son, the Duke of Gloucester.

The boy was baptized in the chapel of Hampton Court, William III.

standing godfather, but the child died in 1700, two years before his

mother became queen. As was not unnatural, considering all that she

had suffered there, Anne cared little for Hampton Court, preferring her

palaces at Kensington and Windsor, but she commissioned the painter

Verrio and the sculptor Grinling Gibbons to {304} supplement the

already lavish decorations with ceiling paintings and mural carvings.

Her successors, George I. and George II., on the other hand, were very

fond of the palace, but they left it much as they found it, except that

the former had the ceiling of the state bedchamber painted by Sir James

Thornhill.

It was in the reign of George III., who never resided at Hampton Court,

that the famous Black Hamburgh vine, the largest in England, was

planted, and it was the same monarch who first turned the palace to

account by assigning apartments in it to people of rank and

distinction, to whom for one reason or another he wished to show

favour. Since then, though it has never again been the abode of

royalty, it has been the scene of many gatherings of celebrities. At

one time, for instance, it was the home of the Countess of Mornington,

mother of the great Duke of Wellington and the astute statesman Lord

Wellesley, and in it lived for several years Mrs. Tom Sheridan,

daughter-in-law of Richard Brinsley Sheridan, one of whose daughters

was the Queen of Beauty at the Eglinton Tournament of 1839, and another

the wife of the Marquis of Dufferin, whose son, the late Lord Dufferin

and Ava, became Viceroy of India.

It was in 1838 that Queen Victoria decided to admit all her subjects

free of fee to the state apartments and grounds of her palace at

Hampton, a generous policy, the wisdom of which has been conclusively

proved by the ever-increasing numbers of those who show their

appreciation of the fine works {305} of art preserved in the galleries

and their delight in the beauty of the grounds. The grand old demesne

is indeed a notable witness to the continuity of the present with the

past, and to the close union between the people and their rulers, that

in spite of the growth of democracy is still distinctive of England,

and is her best hope for the future.

{306}

In addition to the many standard works on London as a whole, including

those by Sir Walter Besant, Edward Walford, James Thorne, G. E. Mitton,

and others, the author of the present volume has consulted William

Howitt's _Northern Heights of London_; _The Records of Hampstead_,

edited by F. E. Baines; _The Hampstead Annals; The Transactions of the

Antiquarian and Historical Society of Hampstead; Wyldes and its Story_,

by Mrs. Arthur Wilson; Harrow, by J. Fischer Williams; _Epping Forest_,

by Edward North Buxton; _Chislehurst Caves and Dene Holes_, by W. G.

Nicholls; _The History and Antiquities of Richmond, Kew, Petersham, and

Ham_, by G. Beresford Chancellor; _Ham House_, by Dr. Williamson;

_Bygone Putney_, by Ernest Hammond; _The History of Hampton Court_, by

Ernest Law; supplementing them by the collection of recent information

on the spot in the various districts treated.

{307}

INDEX

ABBEY WOOD, 92.

Aberdeen, Lord, 46.

Abershaw, Jerry, 204.

Abney, Sir Thomas, 33.

Aconzio, Giacomo, 93.

Acton, 277.

Adam, Robert, 283.

Addington, 142.

Addington, Henry, 219.

Addiscombe, 143.

Addison, 14, 33, 194.

Ælffic, 152, 153.

Æthelbricht, King of Kent, 198.

Æthelred, King, 208.

Ainger, Canon, 21.

Airey, Sir George, 114.

Akenside, Dr., 15.

Alcock, Thomas, 157.

Aldborough Hatch, 72, 73.

Alfred, King, 100, 101, 124, 208.

Algar, Earl, 295.

Alleyn, Edward, 131, 132, 133.

Allingham, William, 18.

Amelia, Princess, 260, 261, 277.

Amelia, Queen, 256.

Anerley, 135.

Angoulême, Duchesse d', 22.

Anjou, Margaret of, 229.

Anne of Bohemia, 120, 228.

Anne of Cleves, 104, 117, 130, 234, 299.

Anne of Denmark, 108.

Anne, Princess, 242, 283, 287, 303.

Anne, Queen, 111, 163, 167, 225, 271.

Antraigues, Count d', 195.

Aragon, Katharine of, 59, 86, 103, 232, 233, 245, 266, 286.

Archer, Lady, 195.

Argyll, Duke of, 264.

Arran, Earl of, 249.

Arthur, Prince, 232, 266.

Arundel, Archbishop, 149.

Arundel, Earl of, 161.

Ashurst, Sir William, 35.

Athelstan, King, 192, 263, 265.

Atterbury, Bishop, 33.

Atterbury, Dr., 33, 39.

Aubrey, Lord, 152.

Auckland, Lord, 130.

Audley, Lord, 116.

Aulus Plautius, 138.

Aylmer, John, 95.

BACON, LORD FRANCIS, 33, 132, 149, 286.

Baillie, Agnes, 17.

Baillie, Joanna, 17.

Baker, Sir Richard, 33.

Banstead, 165-171.

Barbauld, Rochemond, 36.

Barking, 80, 82, 83.

Barking, Abbess of, 78.

Barking Abbey, 72, 81, 83.

Barking Creek, 85.

Barking Side, 73, 74.

Barnard, Sir John, 219.

Barnes, 179, 191-196, 197-218.

Barnet, 24.

Barnet, Chipping, 51.

Barnet, East, 50, 51, 53, 54.

Barnet Field, 50.

Barnet, High, 50, 51, 52, 53.

Barry, Sir Charles, 134.

Bastwick, Dr., 33.

Beach, Mary, 289.

Beale, Robert, 195.

Beauclerck, Lady Diana, 257, 263.

Beaufort, Thomas, 101.

Beckenham, 129, 130.

Beckley, 128.

Beddington, 152, 154, 155, 157, 215.

Bedell, Mary, 145.

Bedingfield, Sir Henry, 236.

Beechey, Sir Thomas, 20.

Belet, Michael, 227.

Bell, Robert, 202.

Belsize, 4, 5.

Belvedere, 95.

Benn, Sir Anthony, 267.

Bennet, Timothy, 291.

Bermondsey, Monastery of, 131.

Berry, the Misses, 263, 289.

Besant, Sir Walter, 18.

Bettes, James, 296.

Beverley Brook, 191, 261.

Bexley, 98.

Bickersteth, Dr., 22.

Birket Foster, 41.

Blackheath, 100, 105, 115, 116, 117.

Black Prince, 119.

Blake, William, 17, 35.

Boadicea, Queen, 60.

Bolingbroke, Henry, 149.

Bolingbroke, Richard, 38.

Boleyn, Anne, 103, 140, 141, 234, 293, 298.

Bonar, Mr. and Mrs., 128.

Bonivet, Admiral, 116.

Bonner, Edward, 186.

Boswell, James, 42.

Bourgeois, Sir Francis, 134.

Bowyer, William, 77.

Brabazon, Sir Roger, 4.

Bradley, James, 114, 222.

Bradon, William, 130.

Bradshaw, John, 145.

Braganza, Caroline of, 166.

Brampton, Thomas, 233.

Brawne, Fanny, 17.

Brent, river, 9, 41, 42, 274, 278, 279.

Brentford, 9, 177, 178, 225, 275-276.

Bridget, Princess, 121.

Bridgman, Sir Orlando, 290.

Bromley, 128-130.

Brougham, Lord, 189.

Brouncker, Lord, 247, 248, 257.

Brown, Charles Armitage, 17.

Bruce, James, 46.

Buchan, Lord, 258.

Buckhurst, Lord, 65.

Bunyan, John, 275.

Burdett, Sir Francis, 204.

Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, 36.

Burghley, Lord, 199, 200, 216.

Burlington, Earl of, 272.

Burney, Charles, 271.

Burney, Fanny, 12, 15.

Burrage Town, 91, 92.

Burstall Heath, 93.

Burton, Lady, 220.

Burton, Sir Richard, 219.

Burton, Henry, 33.

Bushey Park, 290, 291.

Bute, Earl of, 261.

Butler, Bishop, 14.

Butler, Dr., 46.

Buxton, Sir Samuel, 16.

Buxton, North, 72.

Byron, Lord, 17, 26, 46, 91, 134.

CADE, JACK, 116.

Caen Wood, 6, 15, 37.

Csar, Sir Julius, 215.

Calton, Thomas, 131.

Cambridge, Duke of, 225.

Cambridge, Richard Owen, 287.

Campbell, Thomas, 16, 135.

Campbell, John, 264.

Campeggio, Cardinal, 116.

Canning, George, 187, 272.

Canterbury, Archbishop of, 98.

Canute, 277.

Capel, Lord, 221, 222.

Cardigan, Earl of, 205.

Carew, Sir George and Lady, 234.

Carew, Sir Nicholas, 154, 157, 164.

Carlyle, Thomas, 35.

Caroline, Queen, 115, 223, 242, 250, 255, 270.

Carpenter, Edward, 41.

Carshalton, 155-157, 169, 215.

Carwardine, Sir Thomas, 160.

Castlemaine, Lady, 163, 166, 241.

Castlereagh, Lord, 187.

Caterham, 146, 153.

Catford, 125.

Catherine, Queen, 271.

Ceawlin, King of Wessex, 198.

Cecil, Sir Thomas, 199.

Chalon, John James, 30.

Chamber, Sir William, 222, 255.

Champion Hill, 182.

Chandos, Duke of, 50.

Chandos, Lord, 187.

Chantrey, Sir Francis, 127, 267.

Charles I., 86, 108, 112, 117, 122,

133, 145, 163, 168, 182, 187, 190,

240, 263, 286, 290, 291, 301.

Charles II., 32, 35, 109, 112, 117,

133, 153, 163, 166, 168, 190,

197, 200, 201, 257, 264, 271,

286, 294, 302.

Charles V., 103, 233.

Charlotte, Queen, 223, 224, 242, 256, 265.

Charlotte, Princess, 115.

Charlton, 118, 119.

Chatham, Lord, 15, 136, 139, 142, 144, 187-189, 202.

Cheam, 158, 159, 163, 197.

Chertsey, 164.

Chelsham, 146.

Cheshunt, 56.

Chessington, Richard de, 214.

Chesterfield, Earl of, 4, 115.

Chevenix, Mrs., 287.

Child, Sir Joshua, 70.

Child, Sir Thomas, 280.

Chingford-Earls, 63.

Chislehurst, 96, 125-128.

Chiswick, 220, 271-273.

Cholmeley, Sir Roger, 29.

Cholmondeley, Earl of, 251.

Cibber, Colley, 15, 252.

Clare, John, 63.

Clarence, Duke of, 231, 251.

Clarendon, Lord, 287.

Clarke, Cowden, 35.

Claudius, Emperor, 138.

Claypole, Mrs., 302.

Cleveland, Duchess of, 163, 273.

Clive, Kitty, 288.

Clive, Lord, 216.

Cobbett, William, 194.

Cole, George, 263.

Coleridge, Samuel Taylor, 16, 25, 30, 35.

Colet, Dean, 246, 249.

Collins, William, 20.

Collinson, Peter, 42.

Compton, Colonel Henry, 187.

Condé, Prince de, 71.

Congreve, William, 194.

Connaught, Duke of, 64.

Connaught, Prince of, 115.

Constable, John, 19, 20, 24, 25, 204.

Conyers, Sir Gerard, 69.

Conyers, Thomas, 53.

Cook, Sir Frederick, 256.

Coombe, 100.

Coombe Hill, 296.

Coombe Wood, 204.

Coppe, Abrezer, 195.

Cornwallis, Admiral, 188.

Cornwallis, Sir Thomas, 33.

Cottington, Lord, 260.

Cotton, Robert, 257.

Coulsdon, 153.

Crabbe, 16.

Craik, Mrs., 138.

Cranmer, Archbishop, 43, 58, 150, 215.

Cray, Foot's, 96, 97.

Crayford, 96, 98.

Cray, Mary, 96.

Cray, North, 96, 97.

Cray, river, 98.

Cray, St. Paul's, 96.

Cromwell, Oliver, 23, 108, 133,

174, 262, 264, 273, 276, 294, 302.

Cromwell, Thomas, 181, 183, 184, 198, 246.

Cromwell, Walter, 184.

Crossness, 93, 94.

Crotch, Dr., 270.

Crouch End, 31.

Croydon, 135, 143, 144, 148-154, 215.

Crystal Palace, 135.

Cyncheard, the Ætheling, 208.

Cynewulf, King, 208.

DAMSELL, MARGARET, 130.

Dagenham, 83-85.

Duppa, Bishop, 253, 256.

D'Arcy, Edward, 165.

Darrell, Sir Lionel, 256.

Dartford, 127.

Davey, Sir Thomas, 66.

Davis, Thomas, 20.

Day, Daniel, 73, 74.

Deans, Jeanie, 250.

Decker, Sir Matthew, 250.

Dee, Dr., 218, 219, 237.

Delafosse, Rev. Mark, 257.

Delaney, Mrs., 270.

Denmark Hill, 132.

Denny, Sir Anthony, 59.

Desenfans, Monsieur, 134.

Devonshire, Duchess of, 190.

Dickens, 15, 16, 41, 66, 67, 289.

Digby, John, 201.

Dighton, Edward, 20.

Diggs, Margaret, 181.

Dilke, Charles Wentworth, 17.

Docwra, Sir Thomas, 295.

Donne, Dr., 216.

Dorchester, Marquis of, 35.

Douglas, Lady, 262.

Downe, 140.

Draper, William, 97.

Dryden, John, 194.

Ducket, Lionel, 215.

Dudley, Lord Robert, 282.

Dufferin, Lord, 35, 304.

Dulwich, 131-134.

Du Maurier, George, 21.

Duncan, Edward, 20.

Dunstan, Sir Jeffrey, 174.

Dunstan, 265.

Dunstaple, Sir Harry, 174.

Duppa, Bishop, 240.

Dyer, Sir W. Thisselton, 224.

Dysart, Countess of, 263, 264.

Dysart, Earl of, 255, 265.

Dysart, Lady, 265.

EALING, 277.

Edgar, King, 80, 265.

Edgware, 39, 40, 51.

Edmonton, 49.

Edmund, King, 265, 275.

Edred, King, 265.

Edward the Confessor, 3, 41, 57, 68, 74, 97, 294.

Edward the Martyr, 265.

Edward the Peaceable, 3.

Edward I., 6, 56, 61, 83, 101, 130, 227.

Edward II., 101, 119.

Edward III., 7, 28, 72, 76, 119,

140, 227, 228, 255, 267, 270.

Edward IV., 38, 52, 76, 102, 113,

116, 121, 156, 230, 245, 266.

Edward V., 38.

Edward VI., 29, 66, 105, 146,

160, 215, 235, 281, 282, 293,

299, 300.

Edwy, King, 265.

Eel Pie Island, Richmond, 285.

Eleanor, Queen, 56.

Elizabeth, Queen, 5, 29, 33, 58,

66, 70, 76, 82, 88, 93, 99, 106,

108, 117, 122, 145, 150, 154,

155, 158, 159, 161-163, 165,

181-183, 192, 195, 199, 214-216,

218, 221, 235, 237, 252,

269, 280, 282, 286, 290, 300.

Elizabeth, Princess, 282.

Elizabeth, of York, 295.

Elmham, Thomas, 229.

Ellerton, John, 195.

Ellymbridge, Thomas, 156.

Elstree, 39, 50, 51.

Eltham, 118-124.

Eltham, John of, 119.

Eltham, Statutes of, 122.

Enfield, 50, 54-60, 76.

Epping Forest, 56, 59, 60-71.

Aldersbrook Cemetery, 62.

Ambresbury Banks, 60, 64.

Beech Hill, 65.

Beech Wood, 63.

Buckhurst Hill, 64, 66.

Chingford, 62, 64, 65.

Chingford St. Paul's, 64.

Chigwell, 66, 67.

Chigwell Palace, 62.

Connaught Water, 64.

Etloe, 77.

Green Ride, 64.

Harold's Oak, 63.

Higham Hill, 68.

High Beach Green, 63.

High Beach Hill, 63.

Loughton, 60, 64-66.

New Hall Palace, 62.

Queen Elizabeth's Hunting Lodge, 63, 64.

Ranger's Road, 64.

Rockholt, 77.

Sewardstone, 62.

Theydon Bois, 62, 72.

Whip's Cross, 68.

Woodford, 67, 68.

Writtle Palace, 62.

Epsom, 157, 163-170.

Eric IV. of Sweden, 237.

Erith, 92, 95.

Erskine, Lord, 16.

Esher, 185.

Essex, Earl of, 107, 161, 177, 182.

Ethelbert, King, 129.

Ethelred, King, 164, 278.

Ethelred II., 3, 265.

Ethelruda, 124.

Eugénie, Empress, 128.

Evelyn, John, 100, 193, 201, 264

Evelyn, Mrs. Richard, 165.

Ewell, 158-160, 163.

Ewing, Mrs., 257.

FAIRFAX, 182, 266.

Falconbridge, Countess of, 273.

Falconbridge, Viscount, 302.

Farley, 146.

Farnaby, Sir Charles, 141.

Farnborough, 128, 140.

Farnehame, John, 29.

Fauntleroy, Henry, 36.

Fawcett, William, 79.

Fawkener, Sir Everard, 173.

Fielding, Henry, 195.

Finchley, 15, 34.

Finsbury Park, 38.

Firth, John, 150.

Fittler, James, 273.

Fitzherbert, Mrs., 251, 256, 285.

Fitzjames, Bishop, 268.

Flammarion, Camille, 1.

Flamstead, 114.

Flaxman, John, 19, 257.

Fleet Ditch, 9.

Fletcher, Bishop, 269.

Foley, John, 20.

Foot, Sir Thomas, 79.

Foote, Samuel, 173.

Foote, William, 29.

Forest Hill, 133.

Foscolo, Ugo, 273.

Fot, Godwin, 97.

Fox, Charles James, 189, 272.

Francis, Sir Philip, 219.

Frederick V., 11.

Frere, Sir Bartle, 203.

Friern Barnet, 31, 50.

Frognal, 3.

Froissart, Jean, 120.

Fry, Elizabeth, 79, 80.

Fulham, 175, 177, 179, 268-270.

Fuller, Thomas, 165.

Fuseli, Henry, 190.

GAINSBOROUGH, THOMAS, 14, 67, 226, 252.

Gainsborough, Countess of, 11.

Garnett, Dr., 18.

Garratt, 173, 174.

Garrick, David, 15, 23, 40, 173, 226, 252, 273, 292.

Gatty, Mrs., 41.

Gay, John, 14.

George I., 304.

George II., 89, 136, 179, 193,

242, 249, 250, 285, 304.

George III., 137, 142, 167, 183,

206, 222, 223, 250, 256, 304.

George IV., 223, 285.

George Eliot, 30, 173.

Gibbon, Edward, 181.

Gibbons, Grinling, 112, 303.

Gideon, Sir Samuel, 95.

Gifford, William, 203.

Gilbert the Norman, 209, 211.

Gillies, Margaret, 21.

Gilman, 35.

Gilpin, John, 49.

Gladstone, Mrs., 68.

Glennie, Dr., 134.

Gloucester, Duchess of, 38.

Gloucester, Duke of, 282, 303.

Glover, Richard, 142.

Godwin the Hermit, 6, 9.

Goldschmidt, Madame, 203.

Goldsmith, Oliver, 42.

Gordon, Lord George, 15, 16.

Gospel Oak, 9.

Grattan, Henry, 205.

Great Ilford, 78.

Green, Valentine, 174.

Greenford Magna, 278.

Greenford Parva, 277.

Greenwich, 86, 100-115, 118, 122, 123.

Grenville, Right Hon. William, 139, 202.

Gresham, Sir Thomas, 280.

Grey, Lady Jane, 282.

Grey, Sir John, 76, 221, 246.

Grindal, Archbishop, 29, 153.

Grote, George, 130.

Gunnersbury, 277.

Gunyld, 277.

Gurney, Samuel, 79.

Gwynesford, Nicholas, 156.

Gwynn, Nell, 32, 33, 276.

Gypsy Hill, 135.

HAINAULT FOREST, 72-74.

Halifax, Lord, 291, 292.

Haling, 152, 153.

Halley, Edmund, 114.

Hall's Chronicle, 90, 105.

Ham, 259, 262, 263, 265.

Ham, East, 79.

Ham House, 263-265.

Ham, West, 78, 79.

Hamilton, Lady, 188, 208, 212, 213.

Hamilton, Sir William, 212, 213.

Hammersmith, 270-272.

Hampstead, 1-24.

Bertram House, 18.

Bolton House, 16.

Bull and Bush Inn, 14, 15.

Capo di Monte, 17.

Christ Church, 22.

Church Row, 17, 21, 22.

Cloth Hill, 10, 19.

Evergreen Hill, 16.

Fitz-John's Avenue, 20.

Flask Tavern, 11.

Flask Walk, 11, 18.

Golder's Hill, 23.

Heath, 16, 21-23, 25.

Heath House, 14, 16, 22.

High Street, 10, 19.

Holly Bush Assembly Rooms, 19.

Holly Hill, 10.

Jack Straw's Castle, 11, 15, 16.

Judges' Walk, 17.

King of Bohemia Tavern, 11.

Lawn Bank, 17.

Lyndhurst Road, 14, 18.

Mount, The, 19.

Mount Vernon, 11.

North End House, 11, 15.

New Grave House, 21.

Parish Church, 21.

Parliament Hill, 23.

Pond Street, 18.

Prince Arthur Road, 20.

Prospect House, 19.

Public Library, 20.

Roman Catholic Chapel, 22.

Rosemount, 18.

Rosslyn Hill, 17.

Rosslyn House, 14.

Sion Chapel, 12.

Soldiers' Daughters' Home, 13.

Steele's Studios, 14.

St. Saviour, Church of, 22.

St. Stephen's Church, 18, 20, 22.

'Spaniards,' 15, 16.

Upper Flask Tavern, 14.

Vale of Health, 17.

Well Walk, 12, 13, 17, 20.

Wildwoods, 15.

Windmill Hill, 11, 16.

Hampton, 292.

Hampton Court, 103, 160, 182,

185, 186, 234, 235, 267, 290-303.

Hampton Wick, 292.

Handel, George Frederick, 50, 193.

Hanover, George, King of, 226.

Hardwick, Lord, 156.

Hare, Dr., 195.

Haringay, 38.

Harlowe, Clarissa, 14.

Harold, King, 57, 66, 67, 209.

Harper, Sir John, 174.

Harrison, Mrs. Mary, 21.

Harrow-on-the-Hill, 24, 39, 43-48.

Harrow Weald, 43.

Harsnett, 67.

Hart, Perceval, 99.

Hartley, David, 187.

Hasted, 121.

Hatteclyff, Thomas, 143.

Hatton, Sir Christopher, 150, 199.

Havering, 74-76.

Hawkins, Sir John, 34.

Hayes, 136, 138, 141.

Heath, Dr., 47.

Heidegger, Count, 194.

Hendon, 5, 8, 24, 37, 39-42.

Hengist, 96.

Henrietta Maria, 108, 109, 163, 200, 240, 241, 286.

Henry I., 78, 209, 227.

Henry II., 58.

Henry III., 61, 119, 130, 266.

Henry IV., 101, 121, 149, 229.

Henry V., 101, 121, 229, 244, 280.

Henry VI., 38, 40, 116, 121, 156, 280.

Henry VII., 38, 102, 121, 130, 156, 230, 232, 234.

Henry VIII., 7, 43, 58, 64, 68,

80, 81, 86, 94, 102, 103, 117,

122, 130, 131, 140, 141, 143,

149, 154, 157, 160, 163, 164,

181, 198, 214, 233, 234, 249,

252, 281, 286, 293, 297.

Henry, Prince, 239.

Herbert, Lord, 91.

Herring, Archbishop, 149, 151.

Hertcombe, John, 267.

Heydon, Sir Henry, 140, 141.

Heywood, Thomas, 168.

Hide Monastery, 145.

Highgate, 8, 9, 24, 25-37.

Archway Tavern, 31.

Arundel House, 33.

Bank, 33.

Black Dog Tavern, 37.

Brookfield House, 36.

Bull Inn, 34.

Chapel, 33, 39.

Chapel of Passionist Fathers, 37.

Church House, 34.

Cromwell House, 33.

Dorchester House, 35.

Dufferin Lodge, 35.

Fitzroy Park, 35.

Flask Inn, 34.

Fox and Crown Inn, 36.

Gate House Inn, 26, 28.

Great North Road, 34.

Green, 33, 34.

Grove, 35.

Hermitage, 36.

Hermitage Chapel, 29.

Highgate Hill, 31.

High Street, 31.

Holloway, 37.

Holly Lodge, 36, 37.

Holly Village, 37.

Ivy Cottage, 36.

Lauderdale House, 32, 33.

Millfield Lane, 36.

Southwood Lane, 32, 37.

Swain's Lane, 37.

Waterlow Park, 32.

West Hill, 36.

Highwood Hill, 43.

Hill, Sir Roland, 18.

Hoare, Samuel, 16.

Hoare, Sir Richard, 192, 194.

Hoare, Sir Samuel, 216.

Hofland, Mrs., 253, 257.

Hogarth, William, 14, 25, 34, 272, 273.

Holbourne, 9.

Holl, Frank, 20.

Holland, Charles, 273.

Holland, Earl of, 266.

Holwood Hill, 138.

Hood, Robin, 91.

Hook, Theodore, 46, 269.

Hooker, Sir Joseph, 224.

Hooker, Sir William, 224.

Hoppner, John, 265.

Horley, 157.

Hornchurch, 74.

Horne, John, 145.

Horne, Nathaniel, 39.

Hornsey, 8, 29, 37, 38.

Horton, 164.

Houblin, The Misses, 254.

Howard, Catherine, 105, 235, 281, 293, 299.

Howard, Mrs., 285.

Howitt, Mary, 36.

Howitt, William, 36.

Humphrey, Duke, 101, 102, 112, 113.

Hunt, Leigh, 17, 24, 35, 36, 211, 258, 270.

Huntingdon, Countess of, 34.

Huntingfield, Lord, 191.

Hyde, Anne, 287.

INGELRICA, 3.

Inigo Jones, 55, 108, 109, 118, 272.

Ireton, General, 33.

Irving, Edward, 18, 20, 35.

Isabel of France, 116.

Isabella of France, 120.

Isabella, Queen, 119.

Isle of Dogs, 114.

Isleworth, 220, 281, 284-287

JAMES I., 33, 54, 66, 76, 113, 117,

122, 158, 163, 168, 182, 211,

282, 301.

James II., 109, 242, 264, 302, 303.

James IV., 232, 246.

Jansen, Sir Theodore, 199, 201.

Jennings, Sarah, 201.

Jerrold, Douglas, 190.

John, King, 94, 127, 266.

John of France, 119.

Johnson, Dr., 15, 129, 135, 216, 292.

Johnston, Hester, 247.

Jones, Sir William, 46, 91.

Joseph, Michael, 116.

Juxon, Bishop, 150, 151, 182, 260, 269.

KEAN, EDMUND, 252, 257, 270.

Keats, John, 17, 24, 35, 36, 49.

Kent, Duchess of, 261.

Keston, 136-138, 140, 280.

Kew, 220-226.

Kew Gardens, 221-225.

Keybourne Brook, 6.

Kilburn, 5, 6, 8.

Kilnbourne, Nonnerie of, 7.

Kingsbury, 41, 42, 51.

Kingston, 159, 177, 178, 197, 220,

226, 259, 262, 265, 266.

Kingstone, Lady Mary, 77.

Kirby, Joshua, 226.

Kit Cat Club, 14, 194.

Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 194, 288.

Kneller, Lady, 288.

LACY, JOHN, 181, 183.

Lacy, Richard de, 92.

Lamb, Charles, 35, 49, 55.

Lambarde, 122.

Lambert, General, 200, 201.

Lanfranc, Archbishop, 43, 44, 148, 176.

Latimer, 269.

Laud, Archbishop, 150, 177, 190, 260.

Lauderdale, Duke of, 32, 264.

Lea, river, 49, 54, 56, 59, 69, 70.

Lee, 124, 125.

Leicester, Earl of, 52, 70, 221, 235, 290.

Leighton, Lord, 16, 254.

Lennox, Colonel, 204.

Lennox, Lady Sarah, 256.

Le Nôtre, 112.

Leo of Bohemia, 120.

Léon, Comte, 205.

Lesnes Abbey, 92, 93.

Lessingham, Mrs., 22.

Lever, Samuel, 41.

Lewis, David, 77.

Lewis, Monk, 195.

Lewisham, 124, 125.

Leyton, 69, 70.

Lieven, Princess, 256.

Lightfoot, Hannah, 225.

Lillywhite, John, 30.

Linnæus, Carl, 43.

Linnell, John, 17.

Lisle, Lord, 235.

Lister, Richard, 181.

Litchfield, William, 28.

Liverpool, Countess of, 267.

Liverpool, Lord, 143, 204.

Lloyd, Bishop, 271.

Lloyd, Henry, 159.

Lloyd, Sir Thomas, 190.

Lombarde, William de, 112.

Londonderry, Marquis of, 205.

Long, Miss Tylney, 71.

Longley, Archbishop, 143.

Louis XVIII., 71.

Louis-Philippe, 287.

Loutherbourg, 271, 273.

Lovell, Gregory, 211.

Lowther, Honourable Barbara, 257.

Lubbock, Sir John, 140.

Luckington, James, 212.

Lumley, Lord John, 158, 161.

Lyndhurst, Lord, 30.

Lyon, John, 46, 47.

Lyttelton, Lord, 142.

Lytton, Lord, 53, 253.

MACARTNEY, Lord, 273.

Macaulay, Lord, 117.

Madox Brown, 41.

Maid of Kent, 245, 281.

Malden, 208, 210, 213, 214.

Mallet, David, 273.

Mangoda, 3.

Manning, Cardinal, 46.

Mansfield, Lord, 15, 38.

Marble Hill, 284, 285.

Margaret of Anjou, 121.

Margaret, Princess, 232.

Margaret, Queen of Scotland, 103.

Marlborough, Duchess of, 177.

Mary, Princess, 221, 233, 287.

Mary, Queen, 29, 70, 105, 150,

159, 160, 199, 236, 246, 266,

282, 300.

Mary, Queen-Dowager of Scotland, 103.

Mary, Queen of Scots, 97, 192, 195, 211, 301.

Masters, Francis, 39.

Mathews, Charles, 36, 216.

Matilda, Queen, 6, 78.

Maud, Empress, 155.

Maurice, Frederick, 30.

Maxwell, Mrs., 253.

Mayerne, Sir Theodore, 122.

Maynard, Lord, 68.

Marvell, Andrew, 33.

Melvill, Henry, 195.

Melville, Lord, 188.

Merry, Sir Thomas, 69.

Merton, 19, 208-212, 215.

Merton, Walter de, 210, 213, 214.

Meteyard, Elizabeth, 18.

Mill Hill, 39, 42, 43.

Millais, Sir John, 141.

Millebourne, William, 191.

Miller, Joe, 274.

Milton, John, 33, 193.

Mitcham, 197, 208, 215-217.

Mole, river, 267.

Molesey, 267.

Molesey, East, 300.

Molesey, West, 300.

Molyneux, 222.

Monken Hadley, 53.

Monmouth, Duke of, 166.

Morden, 208, 214, 215.

Morden, Sir John, 118.

More, Hannah, 216.

More, Sir Thomas, 124, 215.

Morel, Abbé, 22.

Morland, George, 25, 34.

Morland, Sir Samuel, 271.

Mornington, Countess of, 304.

Mortlake, 184, 198, 218-220, 259.

Morton, Cardinal, 156.

Mottingham, 124.

Mounteagle, Lord, 83.

Muloch, Diana, 18, 138.

Murphy, Arthur, 271.

Murray, Earl of, 301.

Murray, John, 203.

Muswell Hill, 9, 31.

NAPOLEON III., 128, 205.

Nelson, Lord, 36, 111, 188, 208, 212, 213.

Newcastle, Duke of, 152.

New River, 49, 54.

Newton, Gilbert Stuart, 203.

Nicholls, Mr., 126.

Nonsuch Palace, 156-163, 168.

Norviton, 265.

Norfolk, Duke of, 116, 221.

Norris, Sir John, 185.

North, Lord, 43, 292.

Northumberland, Duke of, 282.

Northumberland, Earl of, 282.

Norton, Mrs., 35.

Norton, Sir Gregory, 241.

Norwood, 135, 215.

Nottingham, Countess of, 238.

Noy, Chancellor, 274, 276.

OAKS RACE, 169.

[OE]lgifa, Queen, 265.

Oesterley Park, 280.

Odo, Bishop, 94, 98, 118, 119, 130, 138.

Oldham, 89.

Ongar, 64.

Orleans, Duke of, 103.

Ormond, Duke of, 249.

Orpington, 96, 99.

Osborne, Dorothy, 247.

Oswald, King, 164.

Oswy, King, 164.

Oulton, 155.

Owen, Sir Richard, 261.

Ownstead, Joanna, 145.

Ownstead, John, 145.

PADDINGTON CANAL, 279.

Palgrave, Sir Thomas, 18.

Palmer, Philadelphia, 181.

Palmerston, Lord, 46.

Paris, Matthew, 119.

Park, John James, 16.

Parker, Sir James, 231.

Parr, Dr. Samuel, 46.

Parr, Catherine, 199, 300.

Parry, Sir Edward, 18.

Pauncefoot, Edward, 32.

Paxton, Sir Joseph, 272.

Paxton, William, 202.

Payne, Judge, 30, 37.

Peachman, Polly, 112.

Peek, Sir Henry, 198.

Peel, General, 206.

Peel, Sir Robert, 46.

Pembroke, Countess of, 261.

Pembroke, Earl of, 285.

Penn, Mrs., 293.

Penn, William, 290.

Pepys, Samuel, 86, 87, 91, 109, 168, 193, 211.

Perceval, Sir Spencer, 5, 46.

Percy, Algernon, 282.

Percy, Lady Elizabeth, 283.

Perivale, 278.

Perrers, Alice, 227, 267, 270.

Perry, James, 203.

Petersham, 254, 259, 262, 263, 265, 285.

Pethward, Dr., 177.

Pevrel, Ranulph, 3, 8.

Phelippe, William, 28.

Philip I., 23, 232.

Philippe, Louis, 256.

Phillip II., 199, 236.

Phillippa of Hainault, 119.

Phillpott, 89.

Pickering, Sir John, 221.

Pinwell, John George, 30.

Piozzi, Mrs., 135.

Pirelea, William de, 145.

Pitt, William, 84, 130, 136, 137, 142, 204.

Plantagenet, Margaret, 69.

Plumstead, 91, 92, 93.

Pole, Cardinal, 151, 155, 199, 245.

Poole, Paul Falconer, 20.

Pope, Alexander, 14, 258, 270, 285, 288, 289.

Pope, Sir Thomas, 55.

Porter, Alan, 127.

Porter, Sir Wallis, 36.

Portland, Earl of, 190.

Portman, Sir Hugh, 221.

Powis, Earl of, 40.

Preston, Sir John, 84, 85.

Prynne, William, 33.

Purley, 145.

Putney, 145, 174, 175-190, 197, 218, 259.

Putney Heath, 185-187.

QUEENSBERRY, DUCHESS OF, 262.

Queensberry, Earl of, 251.

Quin, Samuel, 258.

RAIMBACK, ABRAHAM, 39.

Raleigh, Sir Walter, 55, 107, 108, 215.

Ranelagh, Countess of, 273.

Ratcliffe, Dr., 156, 271.

Ravensbourne, 124.

Ravensbourne, river, 129, 138.

Ravenscroft, Thomas, 51.

Ravis, Bishop, 214.

Raynton, Sir Nicolas, 55, 56.

Rennie, Sir John, 87.

Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 255, 265.

Rich, Chancellor, 70.

Richard I., 59.

Richard II., 38, 89, 115, 120, 228, 229.

Richard III., 38, 230.

Richardson, Samuel, 12, 270.

Richmond, 179, 181, 185, 186,

223, 226, 231-243, 250-258,

265, 299.

Ancaster House, 256.

Black Horse Lane, 255.

Bridge House, 251.

Buccleuch House, 252.

Cardigan House, 254.

Downe Terrace, 256.

Egerton House, 253.

Feather's Inn, 253.

Gothic House, 251.

Green, 252.

Harleton Lodge, 260.

Heron Court, 253.

Hill, 250, 253, 259.

Hospital, 257.

Ivy Hall, 251.

Lansdowne House, 254.

Lass o' Richmond Hill, 256.

Lichfield House, 253.

Maid of Honour shop, 253.

Old Deer Park, 234, 244, 250.

Palace, 232-235, 240, 242, 251.

Parish Church, 257.

Park, 259-262.

Pembroke Lodge, 259, 261.

Queen's Road, 255.

Richmond Lodge, 234, 249.

Star and Garter Hotel, 255, 256.

Trumpeter's House, 251.

Vineyard, 253.

Wardrobe Court, 243.

Wesleyan College, 255.

Wick, the, 255.

Wick House, 255.

White Lodge, 261.

Richmond, Earl of, 130.

Ridley, Bishop, 268.

Ripon, Lord, 46.

Rishanger, William, 119.

Roberts, Lord, 47.

Robinson, Henry Crabb, 30, 35.

Robsart, Amy, 221, 235.

Rochelle family, 130.

Roding, river, 78, 82, 85.

Rodney, Admiral, 46.

Roehampton, 190, 191, 197.

Roger, Samuel, 16, 39.

Romford, 74, 75.

Romney, George, 18, 19.

Rook, Robert, 79.

Rose, Edward, 191.

Rose, Richard, 192.

Ross, Sir William, 30.

Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, 30.

Rowe, Nicolas, 30.

Roxburgh, Countess of, 240.

Rubens, Peter Paul, 108.

Rudd, Dr., 238.

Rupert, Prince, 87, 275, 276.

Rushey Green, 125.

Ruskin, John, 36.

Rushout, 43.

Russell, Earl, 261.

Russell, Lord, 151.

Ryan, Mr., 125.

Ryland, W. Wynne, 270.

SACHEVEREL, DR. HENRY, 33.

Sackville, Nigel de, 44.

Salisbury, Countess of, 94, 95.

Sambook, Jeremy, 52.

Sanderstead, 144, 145.

Sandys, Archbishop, 269.

Savage, Bishop, 39.

Sayers, Tom, 30.

Scawen, Sir William, 156.

Schreiner, Olive, 41.

Scott, Sir Gilbert, 45, 48.

Scott, Sir Walter, 250.

Selwyn, William, 127.

Seymour, Charles, 283.

Seymour, Jane, 234, 246, 293, 298, 299.

Seymour, Lady Jane, 235.

Seymour, William, 54.

Shadwell, Sir Launcelot, 194.

Shaftesbury, Lord, 46.

Sharp, Archbishop, 32.

Sharp, William, 273.

Shaw, Sir John, 119.

Sheen, 226-231.

Sheen, Abbey of, 101.

Sheen Monastery, 211, 244-249.

Sheldon, Archbishop, 151, 153.

Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 17, 35.

Sheridan, Richard Brinsley, 46, 257, 304.

Sheridan, Mrs. Tom, 304.

Shirley, 143.

Shortlands, 130.

Shovel, Admiral, 96.

Shovel, Elizabeth, 97.

Shrewsbury, Duke of, 284.

Siddons, Mrs., 17, 190, 252.

Sidney, Sir Philip, 193.

Simmel, Lambert, 231.

Sinclair, Roger, 95.

Sion House, 280-284.

Skelton, William, 177.

Skern, Robert, 267.

Sloane, Sir Hans, 272.

Smith, Alderman, 172.

Smith, Dr. Southwood, 35.

Soane, Sir John, 134.

Somerset, Protector, 281, 283, 293.

Sophia, Princess, 123.

Southampton, Lord, 35.

Southhaw Forest, 51.

Southwell, Canon, 38.

Spencer, John, 201.

Staël-Holstein, Madame de, 251.

Stafford, Archbishop, 150.

St. Albans, Duchess of, 36.

St. Albans, Henry de, 295.

St. Alphage, 101, 115.

Stanfield, William Clarkson, 20.

Stanhope, Lord, 139.

Stanmore, 39, 49.

Stanmore, Great, 51.

Stanmore, Little, 50.

St. André, Marshal, 236.

St. Anselm, 44.

St. Blaise, 129.

St. Ebba, 164.

Steele, Sir Richard, 14, 194, 292.

Steevens, George, 14.

Stephen, King, 78.

St. Erkenwald, 81, 268.

St. Ethelburga, 81.

Stevens, Alfred, 20.

St. Margaret's, 284.

Stanhope, Lady Hester, 189.

Stone, Nicholas, 56, 69.

Stothard, Thomas, 204.

Stow, John, 231.

St. Paul, Earl of, 127.

St. Paulinus, 96, 98.

Stepniak, 41.

Strand-on-the-Green, 273, 274.

Strange, Sir John, 77.

Stratford-on-the-Lea, 78.

Strawberry Hill, 287-289.

Streatham, 135, 215.

Street, John, 17.

Strype, John, 77.

Stuart, Arabella, 54.

Stubbs, Lawrence, 296.

St. Valeric, Walter de, 295.

St. Wulstan, 44.

Style, Sir Humphrey, 129.

Suffolk, Duke of, 103, 130, 246.

Surbiton, 265.

Sutton, 157, 158.

Swift, Jonathan, 247, 270, 285.

Swinburne, Algernon Charles, 190.

Sydenham, 133-135.

Sydney, Sir Robert, 162.

TAIT, ARCHBISHOP, 14, 269.

Talleyrand, Prince, 18.

Tallis, Thomas, 112.

Taylor, Sir Robert, 251.

Teck, Duchess of, 226, 261.

Teck, Duke of, 261.

Teddington, 287-290.

Temple, John, 248.

Temple, Sir William, 247, 285.

Tennyson, Lord, 18, 63.

Tezelm, 142.

Thames, river, 174, 183.

Thames Ditton, 267, 290.

Thirlby, Thomas, 4.

Thomas, Giles, 15.

Thomas à Becket, 210.

Thompson, Sir William, 178.

Thomson, James, 257, 258, 259, 270.

Thornhill, Sir James, 111.

Thorpe, John, 199.

Thrale, Mrs., 216.

Throckmorton, Elizabeth, 108, 215.

Tierney, William, 187, 204.

Tijou, Jean, 303.

Tillotson, 151.

Tiploft, Lady, 56.

Toland, John, 167.

Tonbridge, Richard de, 214.

Tonson, Jacob, 194, 270.

Tooke, John Horne, 146, 202, 276.

Tooke, William, 145, 146.

Tooting, 208, 211, 216.

Tottenham, 49.

Tovi, 57.

Townley, Nicolas, 290.

Trench, Archbishop, 46.

Tuckett, Captain Harvey, 205.

Turner, J. M. W., 111, 289.

Turnham Green, 276.

Turpin, Dick, 63, 91.

Twickenham, 225, 283, 285, 287, 288.

Tybourne, river, 9.

Tyler, the runner, 168.

UPTON, 79.

Ursuyk, Sir Thomas, 83.

VANBRUGH, SIR JOHN, 110.

Vancouver, Captain George, 263.

Van der Gutch, 219.

Vandyck, Sir Anthony, 122, 265.

Vane, Sir Henry, 13.

Van Neck, Gerard, 183.

Varden, Dolly, 67.

Vaughan, Dr., 46.

Vaughan, Hugh, 231.

Vavasour, Sir Thomas, 263.

Vere, Robert de, 38.

Verrio, 218, 303.

Victoria, Queen, 36, 63, 207, 224, 256, 304.

Villiard, Massey, 233.

Villiers, George, 193, 276.

Villiers, Lady Frances, 241.

Villiers, Sir Edward, 241.

Voltaire, 173.

WADDON, 154.

Waechter, Sir Max, 255, 285.

Wakefield, George, 257.

Warbeck, Perkin, 245.

Waldegrave, William, 78.

Wallace, Sir William, 38.

Wallaston, Sir John, 32.

Wallington, 155.

Walpole, Honourable Thomas, 136.

Walpole, Horace, 122, 136, 200,

251, 283, 287, 288, 292.

Walpole, Sir Robert, 179, 194, 219, 260.

Walsingham, Sir Francis, 97, 127, 192, 195.

Waltham Abbey, 56, 57, 59, 62, 66, 67.

Waltham Cross, 56.

Walthamstow, 69, 70.

Waltheof, 68.

Wandle, river, 155, 157, 172, 174,

208, 209, 213, 215.

Wandsworth, 172-174, 197.

Wanstead, 70, 71.

Wanstead Flats, 62, 70.

Ward, John, 140.

Ward, Mrs. Henry, 30.

Warham, Bishop, 39.

Warlingham, 146.

Warwick, Earl of, 230.

Waterlow, Sir Sydney, 32.

Watling Street, 50.

Watts, Dr., 33.

Wat Tyler, 15, 115.

Wedderburn, Alexander, 14, 216.

Welbeck, John, 181.

Welsh Harp, 41, 42.

Wellesley, Lord, 189, 304.

Wellesley, W. Tylney Long, 71.

Wellington, Duke of, 304.

Wells, river of, 9.

West, Bishop, 180.

West, Gilbert, 142.

Westbourne, river, 9.

Weston, Sir Richard, 190.

West Wickham, 94, 140, 141.

Whetstone, 50.

Whistler, James M'Neill, 273.

Whitchurch, 50.

Whitchurch, Edward, 215.

Whitefield, George, 34, 116.

Whitgift, Archbishop, 150, 153, 154.

Whittington, Dick, 31, 32.

Whitney, Miss Anne, 18.

Whyte, Rowland, 162.

Wicker, Henry, 165.

Wimbledon, 175, 176, 179, 183,

185-186, 197, 203, 205-208,

211, 218.

Wimbledon, Lord, 200, 203.

Wilberforce, William, 16, 42, 138, 202.

Wilkes, John, 173, 276.

Wilkie, Sir David, 17.

Willesden, 8, 9.

Willett, John, 66.

William the Conqueror, 58, 68,

81, 94, 98, 118, 119, 130, 148,

209, 249, 286.

William III., 109, 156, 242, 247,

291, 294, 302, 303.

William IV., 222, 251, 265, 292.

William, Morgan, 184.

Williams, David, 37.

Williams, John, 184.

Williams, Rev., 296.

Wilson, Sir Spencer, 4.

YATES, Mrs., 257.

York, Duke of, 204, 282.

ZOFFANY, JOHANN, 226, 274.

Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty