In England, and at almost every well-appointed table in America, cheese
is a positive necessity to a good table. Brillat Savarin, in his
“Physiologie du Gout,” says, “Un beau dîner sans vieux fromage est une
jolie femme à qui il manque un œil.”
Among the best cheeses of England are the Stilton and Cheshire; of
France, are those of Neufchatel, Brie (_fromage de Brie_), and the
_fromage de Roquefort_. The _fromage de Roquefort_ is, perhaps, one of
the most popular of all cheeses. The Gruyère cheese of Switzerland is
also a well-known cheese. It is made from new milk, and flavored with a
powdered herb. In serving this cheese, French mustard, pepper, and salt
are usually passed at the same time. The Roquefort cheese is made of a
mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk: the first communicates consistence
and quality; the latter, whiteness and a peculiar flavor. The Parmesan
(an Italian cheese) is made of skimmed milk. It is a high-flavored and
hard cheese, and is not sent to market until it is six months old, and
is often kept for three or four years. It is extensively used, grated,
for cooking. The Stilton cheese is made by adding the cream of the
preceding evening’s milk to the morning’s milking, producing a very rich
and creamy quality. This cheese is preferred by epicures when it is old,
after having been buried for some time in tin cans to become moldy. The
Cheshire is made with rich new milk. This cheese can be appreciated
without cultivating a taste for it.
Our American cheeses, since the introduction of the factory system, are
exported in immense quantities to England, where they are much sought
for, and considered by epicures as great luxuries. This is generally
astonishing to Americans abroad, who, at home, often consider it only in
rule to offer guests cheese of foreign manufacture. I think, however, in
comparison with our own, the celebrated foreign cheeses have one
advantage. The latter take the name of the exact locality where they are
manufactured; consequently, when people speak of a Stilton or of a
_fromage de Brie_ they know exactly of what they are talking; not so of
American cheese. American cheese means that which may be superior, good,
bad, or indifferent: it is too general a name. America has hundreds of
cheese manufactories, and not a famous one; although many of them make
that which would do credit to America as the greatest cheese-making
country in the world, if only these best specimens were more generally
known.
I have taken great pains in trying to decide which of many samples is
the best American cheese, and have decided upon one made in Otsego
County, New York, which is called the “English dairy” cheese. Before
proceeding any further, I shall enter my protest against that name. Why
do they not call it Otsego cheese? If it were eaten in London, an
Englishman would certainly flatter himself that it was made in England.
If they will only change the name, then, I will take more pleasure in
saying that the Otsego cheese is undoubtedly one of the best specimens
of American cheeses. It has a dark-yellow color, is very rich, and
highly flavored.
The pastures of Otsego County are exceptionally fine, and its general
advantages of climate, etc., render its locality one of the best adapted
for the manufacture of cheese.
One of the best specimens of cheese of a milder character, white and
well-flavored, is made at Milan, Cayuga County, New York, the name of
which might be Cayuga cheese.
Perhaps the cheapest of the foreign famous cheeses is the Neufchatel. It
comes in little rolls about an inch thick and three inches long, is
enveloped in tin-foil, and costs about twenty cents a roll. Two rolls
are quite sufficient for a large dinner. It is a delicious cheese. Care
must be taken, however, when purchasing, to ascertain that it is not
musty.
The tariff may be saved by purchasing the Neufchatel manufactured in New
Jersey and Westchester County, New York. As for that, the Stilton made
in Cayuga County can hardly be detected from the Leicestershire
manufacture itself; and, in fact, nearly all the famous cheeses are very
perfectly imitated in America, so that those who choose may indulge in
foreign names and encourage home manufacture at the same time.
In serving Stilton cheese, the top should be cut off to form a cover,
and then the cheese should be neatly surrounded with a napkin. Whenever
the cheese is taken from the table, the cover should be replaced.
Cheeses are generally cut into little squares and passed in a glass
cheese-dish. No morsel of dried cheese should ever be thrown away, as it
can be used grated for macaroni, cheese omelets, etc.
Cheese should form a course at dinner. For further particulars
concerning cheese as a course, see page 345.