Ingredients: One pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of butter,
yolks of two eggs, a little salt, a sprinkle of sugar, a little very
cold (or, better, ice-cold) water. (All the professional cooks use a
pound of butter to a pound of flour. I think it makes the pastry too
rich, and prefer three-quarters of a pound of butter to a pound of
flour.)
Sift and weigh the flour, and put it on the board or marble slab;
sprinkle a little salt and a very little sugar over it. Beat the yolks
of the eggs, and then stir into them a few spoonfuls of ice-cold water;
pour this slowly into the centre of the flour with the left hand,
working it at the same time well into the mass with the tips of the
fingers of the right hand. Continue to work it, turning the fingers
round and round on the board, until you have a well-worked, smooth, and
firm paste. Now roll it out into a rectangular form, being particular to
have the edges quite straight. Much of success depends upon the even
folding of the paste. Work the butter (which should be kept some minutes
in very cold water if it is at all soft) until the moisture and salt are
wiped out, and it is quite supple; care must be taken, however, to keep
the butter from getting too soft, as in this condition it would ruin the
paste. Divide it into three equal parts; spread one part as flatly and
evenly as possible over half of the crust, turn the other half over it,
folding it a second time from right to left. Roll this out to the same
rectangular form as before; spread the second portion of the butter on
half of the crust; fold and roll it out again as before, repeating the
same process with the third portion of butter. The paste has now been
given what they call three turns; it should be given six turns, turning
and rolling the paste after the butter is in. However, after the first
three turns, or after the butter is all in, the paste should be placed
on the ice, or in a cold place, to remain about ten or fifteen minutes
between each of the last three turns: this will prevent the butter
getting soft enough to penetrate the dough. Each time before the dough
is folded, it should be turned half round, so as to roll it in a
different direction each time; this makes the layers more even. In
order to turn the paste, the end may be held to the rolling-pin; then,
rolling the pin, the dough will fold loosely around it; the board may be
sprinkled with flour; then the dough can be unrolled in the side
direction. This is better than to turn it with the hands, as it should
be handled as little as possible. When folded the last time, put the
paste on a platter, cover, and place it on the ice for half an hour, or
where it may become thoroughly chilled; then roll it out for immediate
use; or, so long as it is kept in a half-frozen state, it may be kept
for one or two days. Firm, solid butter should be selected for puff
paste; a light, crumbling butter would be very unsuitable. After the
pies, patties, or other articles are made (as in receipts), the scraps
may be used for making rissoles. Always select the coolest place
possible for making puff paste. In winter it is well to make it by an
open window.