A tasteful variety at table is a course of something served in shells
(_en coquille_). The natural shells (except oyster-shells) are not as
pretty as silver shells. Plated silver scallop-shells are not expensive,
and are always ready. You can always serve oysters in their shells, by
once purchasing fine large ones; then, by cleaning them carefully every
time they are used, they will be ready to be filled for the next
occasion with suitable oysters from the can. Oysters, lobsters, shrimps,
or cold fish of any kind, can be served _en coquille_ in place of fish.
Chicken, or meat of any kind, should be served as an _entrée_. Salmon,
or almost any kind of fish or shell-fish, can be served _en coquille_
cold, with a _Mayonnaise_ dressing, as a salad.