Every one thinks she can make so simple a dish as that of mashed
potatoes; but it is the excellence of art to produce good mashed as well
as good boiled potatoes. In fact, I believe there is nothing so
difficult in cookery as to properly boil a potato.
To mash them, then, first boil them properly. Put into a hot crock
basin, which can be placed at the side of the fire, half a cupful or
more of cream, a piece of butter the size of an egg, plenty of salt and
pepper, and let them get hot. One of the secrets of good mashed potatoes
is the mixing of the ingredients all hot. Now add six or seven potatoes
the moment they are done, and mash them without stopping until they are
as smooth as possible; then work them a very few moments with a fork,
and serve them immediately. Do not rub egg over, and bake them; that
ruins them. Much depends upon mashed potatoes being served at table
_hot_, and freshly made. They are very nice prepared _à la neige_.