The porter-house and tenderloin steaks are best. Of course, there is
great difference in the different cuts of these steaks. For a cheap
steak, a good cut of what is called chuck-steak is best. It has more
flavor and juice, and is more tender than the round-steak, costing the
same price.
Have the choice steaks cut half an inch thick at least; they are even
better three-quarters of an inch thick. Grease the gridiron well with
pork or beef-suet. Have it quite hot. Put on the steak over a hot, clear
fire; cover it with a baking-pan. In a moment, when the steak is
colored, turn it over. Watch it constantly, turning it whenever it gets
a little brown. Do not stick the fork into the middle of the steak, only
into the sides, where it will do least harm by letting out the juice.
It should be quite rare or pink in the centre, though not _raw_. When
cooked enough, put it on a hot platter; sprinkle over plenty of salt and
pepper--mind not to put on the salt and pepper before the steak is
cooked; then spread over the top some sweet, fresh butter. Set the
platter in the oven a few moments, to let the butter soak a little in
the steak; then serve it immediately. Do not use too much butter; there
should be none at all, or at least only a few stray drops, in the bottom
of the platter. There should be no gravy. The juice of a properly cooked
steak is supposed to be in the inside of the steak, and not swimming in
the dish.
A steak is much improved by a simple addition, called by professional
cooks _à la maître d’hôtel_.
When the steak is cooked, it is placed on the hot platter. First, then,
salt and pepper are sprinkled over; then comes a sprinkling of very
finely chopped parsley; then some drops of lemon-juice; lastly, small
pieces of butter are carefully spread over. Place the steak into the
oven for a few moments until the butter is well melted and soaked into
the steak.
For extra-company breakfasts, only the fillets, _i. e._, the tender
parts of the porter-house or tenderloin steaks, are used. They are cut
into little even shapes, round or oval, one for each plate. They are
cooked, then served in a hot dish, surrounded with Saratoga potatoes, or
fried potatoes in any form, or with water-cresses, or with mushrooms, or
stuffed tomatoes, or green pease, etc.