BROILING.

I did not appreciate the nicety of broiling until, upon an occasion, a

gentleman invited a dinner company to a private dining-room of one of

our large restaurants, to eat a certain kind of fish, which he

considered especially fine. The host was quite out of humor to see the

fish come to the table baked, when he had ordered it broiled. The

proprietor afterward explained that, for some reason, his French cook

was absent for that day, and he had no other who could broil so large a

fish. I at once realized that, after all, it must be a delicate and

difficult thing to broil a large fish, so that the centre would be well

done, and the surface not burned. The smaller and thinner the article,

the hotter should be the fire; the larger the article, the more

temperate the fire, or, rather, the greater distance it should at first

be placed from it. The fish, in this case, should have been wrapped in

oiled or buttered paper. It should have been placed rather near the fire

for the first few moments; then removed farther away, or placed on

another more moderate fire. A large baking-pan should have covered the

top of the fish, to hold the heat. When nearly done, the paper should

have been removed, to allow the surface to brown.

Always grease the gridiron well, and have it _hot_, before the meat is

placed on it. Any thing egged and bread-crumbed should be buttered

before it is broiled. Fish should be buttered and sprinkled with flour,

which will prevent the skin from adhering to the gridiron. Cutlets, and

in fact every thing, are more delicate buttered before broiling. A

little lemon-juice is also often a nice addition. Birds, and other

things which need to be halved, should be broiled, _inside_ first.

Remember that a hot, clear fire is necessary for cooking all small

articles. They should be turned often, to be cooked evenly, without

being burned.

Never put a fork in the lean part of meat on the gridiron, as it allows

the juice to escape.

Always cover the gridiron with a tin pan or a baking-pan. The sooner the

meat is cooked without burning, the better. The pan holds the heat, and

often prevents a stray line of smoke from touching the meat.

If the fire should be too hot, sprinkle salt over it.

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