To kinder skies, where gentler manners reign,
I turn; and France displays her bright domain.
Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease,
Pleased with thyself, whom all the world can please.
GOLDSMITH.
LETTER FROM THE DUCHESS OF TYRCONNEL,
ADDRESSED
"TO MY DEAR AND INTRINSICALLY ESTEEMED FRIEND, MRS. CARTWRIGHT, AT
THE EPISCOPAL PALACE OF CHESTER."
_Dated_, Lille, _August 12th_, 169--
"I now most willingly take up my pen to give you, my dear Madam, some
account of our voyage, and also of our journey, in fulfilment of the
promise which I made in parting from you and the worthy prelate at
Chester palace:--
"Well, we proceeded on our route to Bristol, where, you are aware, it
was our intention to have embarked for some safe port in France; at
Bristol in due course we arrived, _sans_ accident and _sans_ adventure
of any kind. But, lo and behold, we could find no vessel destined for
the fair shores of France! What was next to be done? why we set off, _au
désespoir_, for Dover. When we arrived at that seaport Sir Patricius
made instant inquiries for a packet, and was told that there was then
only one on the station, and that too was engaged. As he was retiring
from the beach who should he meet, think you? why none other than 'the
unknown knight' whom we had so often encountered on the walls of
Chester; this, you will freely admit, was rather somewhat extraordinary,
if not marvellous, certainly. Well, my dear Mrs. Cartwright, an
explanation took place, when this singular 'knight unknown' informed Sir
Patricius that he himself had engaged the packet, but that it was
exclusively at our service; and in the politest and most obliging manner
he relinquished it to us, and was so truly chivalrous as wholly to
decline a passage for himself.
"This was indeed nobly kind and generous, and we all felt it as such. At
our embarkation the graceful, interesting 'knight unknown' was on the
pier of Dover, and you never saw, my dear friend, with what a dignified
grace this _preúx_ chevalier handed us all on board, and how graciously
he bade us 'adieu.' My dear enthusiastic Adelaide is still further
convinced that he must be a prince _incognito_. He said, as we were
about to part, 'I understand that your Grace and family are now
departing on your way to Brussels.'
"I nodded assent. 'Shall we, pray, stand any chance,' I inquired, 'of
seeing you, Sir, in that ancient city?'
"The stranger hesitated. '_Perhaps_,' quoth he, 'my Lady Duchess.'
"Oh, if then you were to have seen the indignant glance that Lady
Letitia flung on the courteous stranger, while it would seem
involuntarily she echoed, or rather screamed, '_perhaps!_' For you must
know that to this adverb the Lady Letitia hath, and entertains an
entire, instinctive, and unconquerable detestation, to the very
extinction, I verily credit, of every other given adverb in English
grammar, be it _aye_, or be it _no_.
"'But,' continued the gallant stranger, 'I yet may speak in more decided
terms. It is my full determination to proceed to Brussels, unless ought
unforeseen and unexpected should arise to prevent it. I most
respectfully and sincerely wish your Grace and friends every prosperity,
a safe and expeditious voyage, and a pleasant journey.'
"Then bowing with all the grace of one who had been familiar with
courts, he took off his hat, which he several times waved on high, until
the packet got under weigh. I could not but observe that when he took
Adelaide by the hand to lead her on board, that my daughter coloured
most deeply. Indeed I cannot but apprehend that an _impression_ has been
made on her young and feeling heart. But this is _entré nous_. Is it not
most strange, and does it not look exceedingly like _love at first
sight_? But who can be 'the _unknown_ knight' of Chester walls? I can
form no opinion, but I am not certainly inclined to agree with Adelaide
that he is a prince _incognito_.
"But to resume my narrative:--We embarked at Dover on Friday morning, at
eight o'clock, on board a neutral vessel bound for Calais; it was a
Flemish packet, named _De Zee-Schilpad_, Captain Bulderende master. The
weather when we left Dover was fine, but the breeze soon became squally,
attended with heavy rain, and a rough and swelling sea; but in the event
our passage proved a good one. Many of the sailors were Flemish, and
some were French; and, I must say, the most lubberly and awkward I had
ever beheld, _pàr examplé_, one of them sat down to haul a rope! So that
really we felt far more indebted to the wind and waves than to the
nautical skill of either French or Flemish sailors. And I must own, and
am quite free to confess, that their inferiority to our own gallant
tars, in verity, did not displease me.
"Calais, as we approached it, is seen to much advantage, the spire of
_Notre Dame_, and the turrets of the _Maison de Ville_ nobly arising
over the waves, have certainly a fine and imposing effect; it is indeed
a neat and handsome town; the harbour presents a pleasant and enlivening
scene, and is defended by many forts. The citadel is strongly fortified,
and the city surrounded with walls, gates, &c. The parish church was
built by the English, and has been much admired for its architecture.
The fishery here for herrings and mackerel is considerable, and of both
kinds we partook with much _gout_ during our short sojourn in that
ancient city.
"You know what an incurable enthusiast my Adelaide is. During the entire
progress of our voyage, which occupied some five hours, the whole way
from Dover to Calais Adelaide sat on deck, and could not be prevailed
upon, by any persuasion or entreaty whatever, to descend into our cabin,
although the wind, which was fair, blew also fresh, and accompanied with
some showers; still stationed on deck sat Adelaide, intently gazing upon
the Shakespeare-cliffs,
"From the dread summit of this chalky bourn;
Look up a height ... the shrill gorg'd lark so far
Cannot be seen or heard:--do but look up!"
"So intently did Adelaide gaze, that one would have thought that the
spell-bound charm that fascinated her looks to those lofty cliffs, could
only be broken and dispelled by the wand of the enchanter. The following
quatrain is my Adelaide's:--
Ye chalky cliffs! unchang'd ye stand,
As pencil'd by great Shakespeare's hand;
Still to the clouds your summits rise,
Nor perish until nature dies!
"Never once changing her position on deck sat the fair enthusiast, until
cliff and sky became commingled in one dark-blue mass, and soon
completely lost in aërial distance.
"We viewed the church of _Notre Dame_ at Calais, where there is an
ill-executed, clumsy statue of the Virgin and Child in statuary marble;
the walls are surrounded with paintings of Scriptural subjects, but the
design and the execution are very _mediocrè_. As we walked around the
walls of this memorable town, we could not but recollect, with the
deepest interest, that this city had for upwards of two hundred years
appertained to the crown of Britain;--that here had been manifested the
most generous and devoted love of country;--that here our own Edward
triumphed over the arms, as the benevolent Emma did over the hearts, of
the patriot citizens of Calais.
"Once more I tread the sunny region of merry France, endeared from
youthful recollection; once more too I tread the same soil that holds
him I love the best!--no, _not_ the BEST!--in this earthly globe, and no
longer two seas separate me from him whom I acknowledge by the two most
endearing titles of my husband, and my Adelaide's father. Yes, dearest
friend, this is consoling, and it is balm to the wearied heart of a poor
exile roaming in a far and foreign land!
"But I must continue our route:--From Calais we proceeded by
Boulogne-Sur-Mer of which I shall just observe, _en passant_, that it is
a handsome town, it is said of great antiquity, and is very remarkable
from the circumstance of its having been selected as the port from which
the Romans embarked when they invaded Britain; and here still remain the
fragments of a Roman tower built during the reign of Caligula. From
Boulogne we proceeded to Amiens, where we remained for a couple of days
to repose from the fatigues of our journey, and if it will not _fatigue_
you, you shall have a very brief sketch of that fine city.
"Amiens is a city of great antiquity, it was called _Ambianum_ by the
Romans, and is noticed by Cæsar in his Commentaries.--Amiens is the
capital of Picardy, and an episcopal See; it is the _Samaro-Briva_ of
the ancients. This city is situated on the navigable river Somme, which
traverses it in three branches, all which unite below the town, beneath
the bridge of St. Michael.
"Amiens is a rich and flourishing city, and abounds with numerous
manufactories; it is very pleasantly situated in a fertile and well
cultivated country. It is the residence of the governor of Picardy.[29]
[29] Since the Revolution Amiens has become the capital of the
department of the Somme, and there is no longer a governor of
Picardy. Amiens has been remarkable in our days for the definitive
treaty of peace signed in that city, 25th of March, 1802. The room
where it was signed is shown to strangers.
"Amiens is encompassed by a wall and other fortifications, the ramparts
are planted with trees, which form an agreeable walk; the mall, called
_l'Autoy_, is also much admired as a delightful promenade. The houses
are well built, the streets are spacious, and the town is embellished
with regular handsome squares and public buildings; namely, the palace
of the Bailiwick, where the governor of Picardy resides, the _maison de
ville_, or town-hall, the citadel, the square, or _place des fleurs_,
and the great market square, all which are well deserving the attention
of the traveller. There are ten churches in this city, independent of
the great cathedral of _Notre Dame_, which is a truly sumptuous and most
magnificent pile, it is built in the florid style of gothic
architecture, and is accounted one of the finest cathedrals in France.
The nave of the church is greatly and deservedly admired. The building
contains numerous aisles, chapels, and altars, all gorgeously decorated
with shrines, statues, paintings, and monuments. Many of the statues are
of marble, as also the monuments; some others, for instance that of the
Bishop of Amiens, (whose name unluckily I have forgotten,) who founded
the cathedral, are of bronze. There are some oil paintings in the nave,
the subjects taken from Holy Writ, but the execution is very
indifferent.
"As we entered this venerable pile the priests and choir were chanting
the high mass, while the loud, solemn, pealing of the organ's swell
echoed from aisle to altar, wafted the soul beyond the narrow confines
of mortality. The grand altar was brilliantly lighted up, the perfumed
incense arose in clouds to the fretted ceiling, the congregation seemed
sunk in deep and dumb devotion; the service was enchantingly performed,
some exquisite voices assisted; and the scene was truly captivating and
impressive, much to charm the eye and move the heart.
"We have been at this place (Lille)[30] now for four days, but depart on
the morrow for Brussels; and indeed it is with regret that we leave this
delightful city, of which I adventure to give you a brief historical
detail:
"Lisle, or Lille, is a large and strongly fortified city in the
north-east of France, and the capital of French Flanders; it is situated
on the navigable river Deule. The origin of this town is ascribed by
tradition to Julius Cæsar, who is said to have built a castle on an
island in the Deule, whence it derived the name of Insula, Isla, and
eventually of Lisle; the Flemish name is Ryssel; the Latin, _Insula
Flandrorum_; it is now called Lille.
[30] Since the French Revolution Lille has become the capital of
the department of the north.
"Lille is situated in a dead flat, the soil whereof is rich and fertile,
and the people industrious. The Deule, although a small river, yet is
navigable, and is divided into several branches, parts of which supply
the moats of the citadel, and the fosses of the town; while one branch
of this river, called _La Basse Deule_, intersects the city. The form of
Lille is that of an irregular oval; it is a large and handsome town, its
appearance is imposing from its extent, its fortifications, its canals,
its bridges, its squares, and public buildings. It is assuredly one of
the handsomest cities of France; much architectural elegance is
displayed not only in private edifices, but particularly in the public
buildings, viz. _la bourse_, or the exchange, crowned with its cupola
and minaret, the barracks, the corn market, the theatre, five principal
hospitals, besides others. _La maison de ville_,[31] or town-hall,
adjoins the grand place, or square; it formerly had been the palace of
the Dukes of Burgundy; it was built in the year 1430 by Duke Philip the
Good.
[31] The _Maison de Ville_ was destroyed by fire, November 17,
A.D. 1700.
"Lille had been formerly the residence of the Foresters and Counts of
Flanders; it was founded by Baudouin, surnamed _Le Belle Barbe_, Count
of Flanders, so early as 1007. His son Baudouin Le Debonaire surrounded
the city with walls, and built the magnificent church of Saint Peter,
where he was interred; and in the middle of the nave of this cathedral
may be seen the tomb of its founder, who was also called by another
designation, _Baudouin of Lille_. Two Chapters of the order of the
Golden Fleece were held in this collegiate church of Saint Peter, the
first in 1431, the latter in 1436.
"There is in this church a beautiful chapel of our Lady of Treille,
which was built by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, in which is to be
seen a beautiful _mausoleum_ of Bronze, where is represented the Count
Lewis de Male, Count of Flanders, placed between his wife Margaret and
his daughter.
"The other parish churches in this city are, St. Stephen, St. Maurice,
St. Saviour, St. Catherine, St. Andrew, and La Magdelaine. Lille has
seven gates:--1. Porte de La Barne. 2. De Notre Dame. 3. Des Malades. 4.
De Fives. 5. Saint Maurice. 6. Magdelaine. 7. Saint Andrew.
"This city, as, my dear friend, I have before observed to you, is the
capital of French Flanders, as it was anciently called _Flandria
Gallica_; and is one of the most populous, rich, and magnificent cities
in the entire circle of French Flanders.
"You will here, no doubt, my dear Madam, pause, and naturally enough
inquire why I should make this long _dètour_, when my ultimate
destination is Brussels;--what necessity should urge me to visit
Amiens?--why should I proceed to Lille?--why not start straight forward
at once for Brussels? I shall explain to you the cause, my dear friend,
as I hate mysteries, and prefer being candid in preference of appearing
absurd or inconsistent. There have been for these many years some near
and dear female connexions of mine, and likewise of the duke, who long
since have forsook the world, and who are abiding in this country, all
of whom have taken the veil; two sisters are stationed at Amiens within
the convent, or _Abbaye de St. Sepulchre_; and two other relatives have
retired here into the convent _des Soeurs Noirés_. These ladies are now
far advanced in years, and fast approaching that goal that one day we
all must ultimately reach. Could I then, my dear Madam, remain in the
same country, inhale the same air, and withal placed within a reasonable
distance, and it resting wholly in my power and inclination whether I
should see them for once, and perhaps for ever! or decline doing so? I
could not--I would not decline it! No earthly consideration could warp
or cause me to forego this duty! I have seen these venerable saints, for
such I believe them to be, and I am gratified that they are happy; at
least to me they appeared to be so, as they did to my daughter and
sisters. This must be the last time probably that I shall ever see them
imprisoned within those sad monastic walls, the world forgetting, and by
the world forgot! and the leave which I took of them resembled that sad,
solemn, and final farewell, which we receive from the departing voice of
those we regard at the close of their earthly pilgrimage!
"You shall hear from me again so soon as I am established at Brussels,
where I purpose to remain for a year certainly, and for which city we
start on the morrow. Until then, dearest friend, adieu.
(_Signed_) KATHERINE TYRCONNEL."
"P. S.--Please, my dear, most kindly to present all our united
remembrances to your truly worthy lord and prelate. Once more farewell."
* * * * *
The day subsequent to the writing of the foregoing epistle, as has been
determined upon, the duchess and Adelaide, the Ladies Letitia and Lucy,
escorted by Sir Patricius Placebo, departed from Lille on their route to
Brussels. The journey occupied the space of nearly three days; at the
expiration of which the illustrious _voyageurs_ safely arrived at the
noble, the ancient city of Brussels; the drivers were directed to stop
at the hotel _Du Flanders_, in preference to the hotel _d'Angleterrè_,
as it was the wish of the duchess to remain retired from any observance
or unnecessary intercourse with her countrymen; and instructed by the
political tone and temper of the times, courted privacy, not publicity;
and this was now the more necessary, as acts of attainder had been
proclaimed by King William against all the adherents and partisans of
King James the Second.