MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
TO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914-1918)
THE
YSER
AND
THE BELGIAN COAST
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| _An illustrated |
| history |
| and guide_ |
+-----------------+
MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND, FRANCE.
MICHELIN TYRE Co., Ltd., 81, Fulham Road, LONDON, S. W. 3.
MICHELIN TIRE Co., MILLTOWN, N. J., U. S. A.
Michelin gives all profits from the sales of the present guides
to the "Repopulation française" (Alliance Nationale) 10, Rue
Vivienne.--PARIS.
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| HOTELS |
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| [Illustration: BRUGES |
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| Grand H. et du Comᶜᵉ H. du Panier d'Or |
| |
| H. de Flandre, H. du Sablon, Poste |
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| Hôtel de Flandre, 38, rue Nord-du-Sablon. Tel. 19. |
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| Grand Hôtel et du Commerce, 39, rue Saint-Jacques. Tel. 114. |
| |
| Hôtel du Sablon, 21, rue Nord-du-Sablon. |
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| Hôtel du Panier d'Or, Grand'Place.] |
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| [Illustration: DUNKIRK |
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| H. des Arcades. Poste |
| |
| H. du Chapeau-Rouge |
| |
| Hôtel des Arcades, 37, place Jean-Bart, [Illustration: T] |
| Arcades. Tel. 1·89. |
| |
| Hôtel du Chapeau-Rouge, de Flandre, et Grand-Hôtel réunis, 5. |
| rue Saint-Sébastien, Tel. 2·15.] |
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| [Illustration: OSTEND |
| |
| Royal Palace-Hôtel, H. Splendid, H. de la Plage, H. |
| Continental, H. Alberta, H. Kursaal |
| |
| Helvétia-Hôtel, H. Wellington, Poste, H. de la Couronne |
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| Royal Palace-Hôtel, Digue de Mer, Tel. 173, 435 et 271. |
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| Hôtel Continental, Digue de Mer, 63, & rue de l'Yser. Tel. 154. |
| |
| Splendid-Hôtel, 67, rue Royale & Digue de Mer. Tel. 13. |
| |
| Hôtel de la Plage, 65, Digue de Mer & r. Royale. Tel. 152 et |
| 593. |
| |
| Hôtel Kursaal et Beau-Site, 40, Digue de Mer. Tel. 121. |
| |
| Hôtel de la Couronne, 17, quai de l'Empereur. Tel. 43. |
| |
| Rouget's Hôtel Beau-Séjour, 110-112, boul. Van Iseghem. Tel. |
| 504. |
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| Helvétia-Hôtel, 62, Digue de Mer. Tel. 200. |
| |
| Hôtel Wellington, 60, Digue de Mer ☙ ☙ Hôtel Alberta 31, Rampe |
| de Flandre.] |
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| POPERINGHE.--Skindles-Hôtel, 43, rue de l'Hôpital. Tel. 24. |
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| ZEEBRUGGE.--Zeebrugge-Palace. Tel. 6, Heyst. |
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| MICHELIN |
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| GUIDE |
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| nº 1._ |
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THE
YSER
AND THE
BELGIAN COAST
_Ce n'est qu'un bout de sol dans l'infini du monde...
Ce n'est qu'un bout de sol étroit,
Mais qui renferme encore et sa reine et son roi,
Et l'amour condensé d'un peuple qui les aime...
Dixmude et ses remparts. Nieuport et ses canaux,
Et Furnes, avec sa tour pareille à un flambeau.
Vivent encore ou sont défunts sous la mitraille._
+Émile Verhaeren.+
Compiled and published by:
MICHELIN +ET+ Cⁱᵉ
+Clermont-Ferrand+ (France)
_All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part
or whole) reserved in all countries._
THE BATTLE OF THE YSER.
+The Race to the Sea.+
In September 1914, after the Battle of the Marne and the German
retreat, the centre and right of the French Armies quickly became fixed
in front of the lines which the enemy had prepared in the rear, and
were then fortifying. While the Allies' right, abutting on the Swiss
frontier, was protected against any turning movement on the part of the
enemy, their left (the 6th Army) was exposed.
The French 6th Army (General Maunoury) held the right bank of the Oise,
north of Compiègne _(See map p. 3)_. The Germans attacked it in force
and attempted their favourite turning movement.
General Joffre parried the manœuvre, and while strengthening the
6th Army, formed a mobile corps on his left wing, strong enough to
withstand the enemy's outflanking movement.
The 2nd Army, consisting of corps brought up from the east, was formed
and placed under the command of General de Castelnau. Preceded and
protected by divisions of cavalry, it gradually extended its front to
the south of Arras.
[Illustration: +King Albert and General Joffre.+]
[Illustration: +Queen Elizabeth in the Belgian Lines, on the Yser+]
The Germans carried out a similar movement, and the opposing armies, in
their attempt to outflank each other, gradually prolonged their front
northwards and approached the sea.
Against the German right wing, which steadily extended itself
northwards, General de Maud'huy's Army deployed from the Somme to La
Bassée, and gave battle in front of Arras.
The Germans attacked furiously and attempted both to crush the Allied
front and continue their turning movement. Six Army Corps and two
Cavalry Corps were thrown against General de Maud'huy's Army but the
latter, reinforced, held its ground.
The command of the Northern Army Group was entrusted to General Foch.
The new chief promptly co-ordinated the dispositions, in view of a
general action.
[Illustration: +The Race to the Sea.+]
The northward movement of the armies became more pronounced. The
cavalry divisions of the Corps commanded by Generals de Mitry and
Conneau advanced towards the Plains of Flanders.
Simultaneously, the British Army was relieved on the Aisne, and drew
nearer to their threatened coast bases, in the region of Saint-Omer. By
October 19, they were completely installed in their new positions from
La Bassée to Ypres, thus prolonging northwards the Army of General de
Maud'huy. Between the British left and the North Sea Coast, there still
remained a gap, crossed from west to east by the roads leading to the
Channel Ports. It was this gap which the Belgian Army, after its escape
from Antwerp, was destined to stop.
[Illustration]
The fall of Antwerp and the Belgian retreat.
To capture Antwerp, the Germans adopted their usual tactics.
Concentrating their powerful siege artillery--which had previously
destroyed the forts of Liége, Namur and Maubeuge--in the sector south
of the Nethe, they effected a breach in the outer line of forts, and
having crossed the Nethe, with a loss of nearly 50,000 men, they
attacked the inner line of forts, so as to be able to bombard and
reduce the town.
After consultation with the French General Staff, it was decided to
abandon the town, in order to save the Belgian Army.
Leaving a small number of troops in the forts, with orders to mask the
evacuation of the town, the Belgian Army, after destroying everything
likely to be of use to the enemy, crossed the Escaut by night,
together with the British forces, which, as early as September, had
been despatched to help in defending the city. These troops withdrew
westward, via St. Nicolas and Ecloo. On October 9, Antwerp capitulated.
To protect the flank of the columns retreating towards Bruges, the
French Marine Brigade, a detachment of Belgian Cavalry and volunteers,
and the British 7th Division took up positions in front of the eastern
outskirts of Ghent.
On October 4, Admiral Ronarc'h who had meanwhile concentrated his
brigade in the entrenched camp of Paris, received orders to transfer
his quarters to Dunkirk. Leaving St. Denis on the 7th, accompanied by
his staff, and closely followed by the Brigade, he reached Dunkirk
in the evening, proceeding thence to Antwerp. On the evening of the
8th, they were met at the railway station of Ghent by General Pau with
orders to defend that town.
The Marines took up positions east of Ghent, and to the north and south
of Melle. Belgian volunteers occupied the bend in the Escaut. These
troops were supported by a group of Belgian artillery belonging to the
4th Mixed Brigade.
The Germans violently attacked in greatly superior numbers along
the Alost-Ghent road, but for forty-eight hours the Marines carried
out their mission of flank-guard. On receiving orders to retreat,
the Franco-Belgian detachment, covered by units of the British 7th
Division, re-crossed the Escaut and fell back towards the Yser, via
Thourout, where the Belgian Army was arriving, closely followed by
detachments of German cavalry.
[Illustration: +Cavalry on the beach at Malo-les-bains.+
_(Note the barbed-wire entanglements.)_]
The Battlefield.
The last strip of unconquered Belgian territory, on which the German
thrust was destined to be broken, forms part of Maritime Flanders _(See
map, p. 6)_.
This vast plain was formerly a sea-gulf, and as late as the 11th
century, was often raided by the "drakkers" of the Scandinavian
pirates. In the Middle-Ages, the gulf gradually filled up with sand.
This vast _polder_ is almost entirely below sea-level at high tide, and
is each day invaded by the waves.
_Water is everywhere: in the air, on the ground, under the
ground._
_It is the land of dampness, the kingdom of water. It rains
three days out of four. The north-west winds, breaking off the
tops of the stunted trees, making them bend as if with age,
carry heavy clouds of cold rain formed in the open sea. As
soon as the rain ceases to fall, thick white mists rise from
the ground, giving a ghost-like appearance to men and things
alike._ (+Le Goffic's+, "Dixmude").
[Illustration: +Line of Defence near Noordschote.+]
[Illustration: +The Battlefield.+]
Water, which oozes up out of the soil, giving a blister-like appearance
to the soft clay covering, is found at a depth of less than three feet.
This water was carefully drained off, under the control of the
Belgian State, by associations of farmers and land-owners ("gardes
wateringues"). Countless ditches and canals ("watergands") skirting
the willow hedges and intersecting the entire plain, carried away this
surplus water.
All the canals and ditches communicate with numerous water-courses,
e.g. the Yperlée, Kemmelbeck, Berteartaart, Vliet and many other
nameless ones, which run between embankments into the Yser.
[Illustration: +The road from Furnes to Ypres, near Westvleteren, in
December 1915.+
_(See page 127.)_]
The Yser, a small coastal river, having its source in French Flanders
empties itself into the sea between two jetties. Its shallow bed,
dredged along the greater part of its course, describes a wide
semi-circle. At its mouth, at Nieuport, the Yser and the canals which
likewise end there, are closed by a series of locks, which shut out the
sea at high tide and prevent it from invading the plain through the
streams and canals.
The few roads and the Nieuport-Dixmude railway run along embankments
seven to ten feet high.
Formerly, flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, tended by grey-coated
shepherds, grazed in this plain. Immense fields of beet and turnips
alternated with the meadows. Hedges, willows, clusters of bending
poplars, and the roofs of the low farmsteads built on little hillocks,
broke the monotony of the landscape. Here, where peace and prosperity
reigned, the inundations and war have left a vast expanse of reeds, in
which the roads, ruined farmhouses and a few broken trees stand out
dismally.
The plain is bounded on the west by a line of wind-formed sand dunes
planted with _oyats_. These dunes extend along the straight unbroken
coast. To the east of Dixmude rises a series of heights, which, marking
the beginning of the solid ground, are continued further east by the
long unbroken crest of Clerken.
South of this crest stretches the Forest of Houthulst, now entirely
devastated by shellfire.
The spongy nature of the soil makes it impossible to excavate to any
depth, nor was there any high ground to mask the defence-works and
batteries of artillery.
Two great embankments: that of the Yser, arc-shaped, and that of the
Nieuport-Dixmude railway, connecting up to the two ends of the former,
were the framework of the defence lines. However, the dominating
element: water, provided the defenders with a supreme and irresistible
arm.
The Opposing Forces.
The right wing of the German IVth Army, under the command of the
Prince of Württemberg, marched via Bruges towards Dunkirk. This newly
formed army was partly composed of young men belonging to the German
aristocracy, volunteers and former students, worked up to frenzied
patriotism by the German victories.
These admirably equipped troops were supported by at least 500 guns of
all calibres, to which was soon added the heavy siege artillery that
had just crushed the forts of Antwerp.
This mass of 160,000 men, drunk with the _furor teutonicus_, pursued
its victorious march on the Channel ports, certain of crushing the
small Belgian Army which had again escaped them at Antwerp, but which
this time was to be annihilated.
Without losing a single gun during their stirring retreat, the Belgian
Army reached the Yser line. In its death-grapple with the invader, it
had been seriously reduced by more than two months of hard fighting.
Minus the greater part of its officers, and reduced to 43,000 rifles,
300 75's and 23 6in. howitzers, its reserves of munitions were barely
sufficient to deliver another battle. There was no hope of new
supplies, as the army was deprived of its arsenals.
The men, with their torn and muddy uniforms, seemed to have reached the
limits of physical endurance, and to be incapable of further prolonged
effort.
It was then that King Albert issued his stirring Order of the Day:
_Soldiers_,
_For two months and more you have been fighting for the most
just of causes: your homes and national independence._
_You have held the enemy's armies, sustained three sieges,
executed several sorties, and successfully carried out a long
retreat through a narrow defile._
_So far, you have been alone in this tremendous struggle. Now
you are at the side of the valiant French and British Armies._
_It is your duty to uphold the reputation of our arms with that
spirit of tenacity and bravery of which you have given so many
proofs. Our national honour is at stake._
_Soldiers_,
_Look on the future with confidence, and fight with courage._
_In whatever positions I place you, look ahead, and consider as
a traitor to the Motherland whoever speaks of retreat, without
the formal order having been given._
_The time has come for us, with the aid of our powerful allies,
to drive the enemy from our dear country, which they invaded
in contempt of their word and of the sacred rights of a free
people._
_(Signed)_ +Albert+.
The supreme battle was about to begin. To hold the enemy's thrust
against Dunkirk and Calais, the Belgian Army, supported by the Allies,
once again resolutely placed itself across his path and barred the way.
From the sea to Zuydschoote (8 km. North of Ypres), the Belgian Army
was at first obliged, with the help of only 6,000 French Marines, to
hold a twenty-two mile front.
[Illustration: _The unequal strength of the opposing forces seemed to
warrant the enemy's expectations of crushing in the Allied front and
breaking through to the Channel ports._]
To defend this wide front, the whole Army was deployed. From the
coast to Dixmude, the 2nd, 1st and 4th Divisions were echeloned,
with units beyond the Yser holding the advance-posts of Lombartzyde,
Mannekensvere, Schoore, Keyem, Beerst and the two bridgeheads of
Nieuport and Schoorbakke.
The bridgehead of Dixmude was held by the brigade of French Marines
and a brigade of the Belgian 3rd Division. South of Dixmude, the 5th
Division, in positions along the canalised portion of the Yperlée,
occupied the region of Boesinghe in liaison, on the right, with
divisions of Brittany Territorials.
The 1st Division of Belgian cavalry operated near the woods of
Houthulst and Roulers, with French Cavalry divisions of General de
Mitry's 2nd Corps, thus protecting the Belgian right.
There remained in reserve only two Brigades of the 3rd Division and 2nd
Cavalry Division to the south-west of Nieuport.