Not everyone can grow the Gentians, but certainly everyone can

grow--though not all of us can exterminate--those beautiful Veronicas,

the Germander Speedwell and the Field Speedwell, with their brightest

of blue flowers. Merely to name the dandelion, daisy, plantain,

convolvulus, dock, pheasant's eye, and even the groundsel, is to remind

ourselves of the great beauty which our garden weeds possess, and of

the essential place which they occupy in the mental picture of a homely

garden. Yet is there one "weed"--or "good plant in the wrong place," as

a weed has been well defined--more prevalent than all others, hardier

than most, and as beautiful as any. No garden, no road, no wall or

fence even, but grass does its best to drape and to beautify it. And

if gardening has made men blind to the beauty of the grass leaf, so

blind that they needs must roll and cut it for appearance's sake, then

is gardening to be ranked with that spirit of vestrydom, of which Mrs

Meynell says such true, sarcastic things. But gardening need have no

such tendency. Rather should it tend to make its devotees observant and

admiring where plant beauty is concerned. Still, with weeds, be they

ever so beautiful, ever so interesting, must the gardener wage eternal

war. Nature, like the artist she is, abhors bare earth as much as she

abhors a vacuum, and, where she sees a piece of ground uncovered, there

she sows her seeds or projects her roots. One of the best ways of

keeping weeds within bounds, therefore, is to have as little earth as

possible uncovered by plants, for then weeds have small chance of entry

and smaller chance of development. There is a hackneyed saying to the

effect that one year's seeding means seven years' weeding, and there

is wisdom in it; but rare indeed must be the gardens where in some odd

corner weeds do not succeed each year in ripening and scattering their

seeds. As soon as a weed is seen, it should be pulled up, or Dutch-hoed

off, and, if it have not a perennial root, straightway buried in

the garden or used as a mulch round shrubs or herbaceous plants. In

addition to its primary object, the mere pulling up of weeds, or hoeing

off their heads, is of the utmost value in loosening the surface of

the ground, and so checking evaporation and the conduction of heat.

In fighting with weeds, garden flowers will be much assisted by deep

cultivation, rich soil, and a provision of those general conditions

which conduce to their health and vigour. As a rule the annual weeds

are kept under with comparative ease, it usually being the perennials

with spreading roots which give the real trouble. In preparing a piece

of ground, every piece of such root--be it of couch grass, bindweed,

or what not--should be picked out and burnt. Then, if, through several

seasons, every shoot of perennial weed be pulled off directly it is

seen, they will eventually be subdued or even vanquished. For weedy

paths, it is no longer necessary to spend hours or days in hand-weeding

with basket and knife--historically interesting though that practice

is. All that is now required is to water the paths, when dry, with a

solution made by boiling five ounces of powdered arsenic in a gallon of

water, stirring the while, and then adding two gallons of cold water,

and half a pound of soda.

Such is the fate of the man who would be a gardener. He must wage

constant battle with flowers whose beauty he can but acknowledge. He

must be full of zeal for the murder of plants he is bound to love and

admire. It is a little like hitting a woman; and, when one sees the

weed, which has been violently hurled from bed and border, patiently

trying to live its humble life on wall or rubbish-heap, smiling as

sweetly as it may on the "owner" of the soil, one is reminded of that

pathetic--even if fictitious--story of the vivisector's dog.

INSECT AND OTHER PESTS

Vigorously growing plants are far less liable than are feeble ones to

the attacks of the various living enemies which the gardener is called

upon to combat. Therefore the most important item in the suppression

of insect or fungoid pests is careful and correct culture. But, even

in the best kept gardens, green-fly and earwig, slugs, snails and

wireworms will appear, and must be dealt with by repressive as well as

by preventive measures.

The green-fly, which is sometimes such a trouble to our roses and

fruits, should be treated with vigorous and repeated syringing or

hosing with water. If this is found to be inadequate, the affected

plants may be washed with tobacco water (made by pouring half a gallon

of boiling water on an ounce each of soft soap and shag tobacco, and

allowing the strained infusion to cool), or with an emulsion made by

stirring well together half a pint of petroleum oil, two ounces of

hard soap, and a quart of nearly boiling water, afterwards adding half

a gallon of cold water, and thoroughly mixing. This last application

should always be applied in the evening.

Wireworms, which are such a foe of the carnation grower, may usually

be destroyed by spreading gas-lime at the rate of two pounds per

square yard over the unoccupied soil in the fall, ploughing or digging

it into the ground a month or two later. If this is impracticable,

the wireworms may often be trapped by burying pieces of potato at

intervals, removing them every few days.

For destroying the fungus of mildew nothing is more effective than

sulphur mixed with soft soap and water in the proportion of one ounce

of sulphur and four ounces of soap to four gallons of hot water.

Earwigs, which so often spoil the Dahlia blooms, may be trapped by

crumpling a newspaper and placing it among the plants, or by filling

a flower-pot with moss and inverting it over a stake--in either case

examining the traps daily and destroying the victims.

Snails and slugs should be caught at night and killed by placing

them in a bucket and covering them with salt. They may be trapped

by placing cabbage or lettuce leaves at intervals about the garden,

examining beneath them each morning; or they may sometimes be destroyed

by watering the plants which they frequent with lime-water (made by

adding a gallon of water to a quarter pound of freshly burnt lime, and

straining).

Birds are sometimes harmful, but on the whole they do more good than

harm in a garden, and I am inclined to agree with an old gardener, who,

having caught a blackbird among the gooseberries, was asked by his

master what he had done with it. "Oh," he replied, "I just gave 'im a

warning and let 'im go."

POINTS

1. Grow no plant which does not strike you as either beautiful or

interesting.

2. Learn the requirements of every plant as far as possible before

ordering it, and have everything ready before its arrival.

3. Do not overcrowd, but allow every plant to develop and display its

own form of beauty. On the other hand, show as little bare earth as

possible at every season of the year.

4. Have few beds and many and wide borders. It will often, however,

be found convenient to grow in beds such flowers as Carnations, which

require to be frequently replanted, and which will not tolerate the

competition of other plants; but even with Carnations may be planted

many bulbs, such as Crocuses, Tulips, Spanish Irises and Gladioli. In

any case, aim at being a four-season gardener, and make your garden

interesting in every part the year through.

5. The borders should generally be wide--where there is ample space not

less than nine to twelve feet. They should be backed by a plant-covered

trellis or wall, or by flowering and evergreen shrubs.

6. Cultivate the soil to a depth of two or three feet in the manner

described in this book, and in dry weather supply _abundance_ of water,

and keep the surface mulched either with moss or manure, or with loose

soil.

7. In arranging mixed borders, avoid dottiness, preferring rather to

plant bold clumps or masses of individual species. Let the surface

of the soil be carpeted by low-growing, surface-rooting plants, such

as the dwarf Campanulas, Aubrietias, Arenarias, Silene acaulis, S.

alpestre, Linaria alpina, Veronica saxatilis and the like. Let the

taller growing plants be mostly towards the back of the border, and the

smaller plants mostly near the front, but avoid primness by allowing

an occasional clump of tall plants (especially those, such as Gladioli

and Lilies, which need special care) to break the front margin, and by

letting the dwarfer carpeting plants spread towards the back of the

border.

8. Keep in a shed or in a corner of the garden a compost heap composed

of two parts sand, one part fibrous loam (such as the top spit of

meadow land), one part of two-year-old leaf mould, and one part of

two-year-old stable manure. Whenever one is transplanting a herbaceous

or other plant, it will be found very helpful to cover the roots with a

few inches of this soil. Mixed with an equal quantity of sand it will

also be useful to place round bulbs when planting them.

9. When planting, always dig a hole sufficiently large and deep to

contain the roots well spread out. Place the plant in position, cover

the roots with a few inches of the compost just named, and give a

bucketful of water to settle the earth. Then fill up the hole with

ordinary soil, firmly pressing with the foot if necessary, though the

liberally watering often does away with the need. In any case the

surface should be ruffled up into a state of looseness in order to

check evaporation.

10. Keep a special garden notebook in which to note things which want

correcting or developing. If not noted when recognised, they are likely

to be forgotten when the season for making the change comes round. Also

note any good plants or good effects which you may see in the gardens

of others.

11. Buy your seeds of the best seedsmen, regardless of price. Buy your

plants from the best nurseries, even though they may be listed a little

cheaper elsewhere.

12. Do not be content merely to copy the "arrangements," "groupings"

and such which you may see suggested in books or practised by your

friends. Study books, study gardens, and study wild nature, but use

your own brains.

13. Make, or remake, one border every year. You will thus always have

sufficient surprise to afford spice or seasoning to the "settled" part

of your garden.

14. It is interesting, in addition to cultivating a large variety of

flowers, to grow one flower or one race of flowers as a specialty.

* * * * *

THE most satisfactory Plants for the Garden, and amongst THE MOST

BEAUTIFUL are the following improved varieties of

HARDY PERENNIALS

CULTIVATED BY

KELWAY & SON

THE ROYAL HORTICULTURISTS

LANGPORT, SOMERSET

KELWAY'S PÆONIES

Collection D--42s. per dozen; 50 for £7 7s.

KELWAY'S DELPHINIUMS

Collection D--42s. per dozen; 50 for £7 7s.

KELWAY'S GAILLARDIAS

Collection C--18s. per dozen; 100 for £6 6s.

KELWAY'S PYRETHRUMS

Collection C--21s. per dozen; 100 for £7 7s.

Nearly all the best new varieties of the above-mentioned important

families ORIGINATED in the Langport Nurseries.

More Certificates and Awards of Merit for improved varieties of Hardy

Plants have been awarded by the R.H.S. to KELWAY & SON than to any firm.

KELWAY'S "MANUAL OF HORTICULTURE" for 1901, by far the best

Horticultural Catalogue and Guide published, will be sent post free

for 1s. 6d. It contains interesting particulars of all the best Hardy

Herbaceous Plants, &c., and of KELWAY'S "ARTISTIC" BORDERS (registered).

133 GOLD AND SILVER MEDALS--London, Paris, Chicago, &c.

KELWAY & SON, LANGPORT, SOMERSET

Handbooks of Practical Gardening

Under the General Editorship of

HARRY ROBERTS

Crown 8vo. Illustrated. Cloth. 2s. 6d. net.

Vol. I.--THE BOOK OF ASPARAGUS. With sections also on Celery,

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AN IDEAL GARDEN BOOK

The Chronicle of a Cornish Garden

BY

HARRY ROBERTS

_With Seven Illustrations of an Ideal Garden by_

F. L. B. GRIGGS

Crown 8vo. Cloth. 5s. net

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considerably to the pleasures of a garden. The book certainly should be

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* * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Spelling has been made consistent with regards to ligatures. Other

inconsistencies in spelling, hyphenation, spacing and capitalisation

have been retained.

Missing and misplaced punctuation in the advertisements at the end of

the text have been silently corrected.

Page 16, "euonynus" changed to "euonymus" (pines, euonymus, privet)

Page 25, closing quote added (fond of such?")

Page 36, "augustifulium" changed to "angustifolium" (Asplenium

angustifolium.)

Page 39, "The" changed to "the" (Flower, the Dark-blue)

Page 40, removed comma (_Milla uniflora_.)

Page 46, "tribola" changed to "triloba" (H. triloba)

Page 50, "altough" changed to "although" (Iris, although he had)

Page 58, "humble-bee" changed to "bumble-bee" (its bumble-bee

visitors)

Page 59, "Oleverianum" changed to "Oliverianum" (E. Oliverianum)

Page 69, "coccineo" changed to "coccinea" (triphylla flore coccinea)

Page 95, "herbaceus" changed to "herbaceous" (hardy herbaceous plants)

Page 101, "develope" changed to "develop" (they develop to a)

The Book of Old-Fashioned Flowers And Other Plants Which Thrive in the Open-Air of England · 第 6 / 6 段