Situated twenty-seven miles from Madrid is the village and palace of
Escorial. The Escorial is a most extraordinary building. Many of the
Spanish people regard it as the eighth wonder of the world. It is
a fitting memorial of the cold, cruel monarch who built it. It is
related that Philip II constructed the Escorial in fulfilment of a
vow, made during the battle of St. Quentin, which took place on Saint
Lawrence’s day, August 10, 1557. King Philip declared that he would, in
case of victory, erect a memorial building to Saint Lawrence that would
transcend any structure of its kind that had ever been built before.
[Illustration: THE LEANING TOWER OF SARAGOSSA]
[Illustration: GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA
_The Alhambra occupies the plateau of the Monte de la Assabria. This
wonderful building was begun by Mohammed I, who was the originator of
the motto “Walâ ghâliba ill’ Allâhta âlà” (there is no conqueror but
the Most High God), which is so conspicuous among the inscriptions of
the Alhambra._]
Saint Lawrence, it will be remembered, was burned to death on a
gridiron, and it is said that, in memorial of this, the structure of
the Escorial was planned to resemble a gridiron in form. There is
nothing authoritative to substantiate this tradition, however. It is
simply the story that goes with the place. This monstrous building was
begun in 1563 and was completed in 1584. It is a monastery and a palace
at the same time. Its vastness overwhelms the mind. At first sight you
are awed by the solemn, stern, and forbidding aspect of the building,
and this first impression is deepened after going through the immense
courts, corridors, and chambers. It has but little ornament to relieve
its severity. It is the work of a morbid and superstitious man. As one
visitor has put it, “Philip was the proudest among kings and the most
bigoted among devotees. What wonder that he should build a convent and
palace and make its costliest room his sepulcher!”
The Escorial staggers description. Perhaps an adequate idea of it may
be had from a brief statement of facts. It cost three and one-quarter
million dollars, and covers 500,000 square feet. It is 700 feet long,
580 feet wide, and is divided into sixteen courts. The great towers at
the corners rise 200 feet. The main cupola or tower above the church,
in the center, is 320 feet in height. When we add that there are 86
staircases, 89 fountains, 15 cloisters, 1,200 doors, 2,600 windows, and
miles of corridors, we sum up in a measure the astounding dimensions of
this wonderful structure.
[Illustration: PALACIO DE GENERALIFE, GRANADA
_The Palace of the Generalife was the summer residence of the Moorish
kings. This interior view shows the Patio de la Acequia._]
The Escorial is well kept by the Augustinian brothers who are in
charge. The surrounding terrace and gardens are carefully cultivated,
and these outer adornments help a little to soften the austerity of the
stupendous pile of granite buildings.
[Illustration: BELL TOWER, CORDOVA CATHEDRAL
_This tower is three hundred feet high, and was built on the
foundations of the Moorish minaret. At the top is a figure of Saint
Raphael with a weather vane._]
In this country of contrasts there is no more striking contrast than
that between the cruel Escorial and the romantic Alhambra. It is
pleasant to turn south to Granada; for the greatest treat of all for a
visitor in Spain awaits him there. Granada is picturesquely situated in
a valley, on ground that rises toward the hill of the Alhambra. The
view from the highest points is beautiful.