The effect of Toledo viewed from the south and looking across the gorge
through which the river flows is remarkable. The city is inclosed
within ancient Moorish and Gothic fortifications, and presents an
aspect of a jumble of housetops dominated by two great structures, the
cathedral and the Alcázar.
[Illustration: PUERTA DEL SOL, MADRID
_The “Gate of the Sun,” the big square in the center of Madrid and the
busiest spot in the city, has long been the real political arena of
Spanish history._]
Enter Toledo, and you find novelty and picturesqueness on every side.
The streets are narrow and crooked. The houses are blind and forbidding
on the outside, reserving their attractions for their inner courts.
Everything about you is strange and curious, and full of historic
significance. If you wish to get the history of Spain in condensed
form, you will find it in Toledo.
The cathedral is the most important feature of the city, and one of
the finest and most interesting in Europe. The religious life of Spain
centered there for centuries. On that site a Christian temple stood in
the sixth century. When the Moors came they made a mosque of it. Then
Alfonso VI took possession in 1085, and the Moors were driven out. In
the thirteenth century the old building was torn down and the present
edifice was begun. During 265 years it was in course of construction--a
lifework for many architects and artisans. And there the great
archbishops of Toledo controlled the government and civilization of
Spain for years. Everything of importance that made Spanish history
was then in their hands. You are made to realize this when you visit
the cathedral. It contains many valuable relics of history and art
treasures. When you have seen these go to the tower. The view will
repay you. The most prominent object to be seen from there is the
Alcázar, standing on the highest ground of the city. This building is
the phoenix that has risen over conflagrations of former structures
on that site. The original building was a Roman citadel. When the Cid
reigned supreme, in the eleventh century, he resided there. Afterward
fires consumed the building, and it was rebuilt several times. It has
been in turn a castle, a palace, a cadet academy, and now it stands
there a stately and imposing monument to the past.
[Illustration: THE ESCORIAL
_This immense building was constructed at the great cost of over
$3,000,000, by Philip II of Spain. It was the result of a vow made by
the king to build a monastery to Saint Lawrence._]