The Story in Diamond-Cutting[71]

Diamonds were known and worn as jewels (in the rough) in India 5,000

years ago and used as cutters and gravers 3,000 years ago. India was the

source of supply until diamonds were discovered in Brazil about the year

1700, when Brazil became the largest producer and remained so until

diamonds were found in South Africa about 1869. The African mines now

produce four-fifths of the diamond supply. Previous to the discoveries

in Africa, diamonds were known to originally come only from high places

in the mountains, because the diamond deposits were found in India and

Brazil, on high plateaus, on the sides of mountains, in the beds of

mountain streams, and in the plains below; where mountain torrents had

rolled them.

In Africa, for the first time, the true original home of the diamond was

found at high levels in the mountains, in enormous fissures, open

chasms, chimneys or pipes, extending to great and unknown depths. Into

these immense chimneys, nature forced from subterranean sources, slow

rivers of a peculiar blue clay, a diamondiferous earth termed

“serpentine breccia” or “volcanic tuf” and now known by the latter-day

name of “Kimberlite.” As this soft mixture oozed into the “chimneys” or

“pipes” from the bottom, it was gradually forced upwards, filling the

whole chasm from wall to wall and to the top, where its progress ended

by hardening in a small mound ten to twelve feet higher than the

surrounding surface.

In this blue clay or Kimberlite in these chimneys, is found nature’s

most wonderful creation, the diamond crystallized from pure carbon, in

intense heat, and under titanic pressure.

The greatest mines of Africa are the Jagersfontein, Wesselton, Premier

and Robert Victor. The Kimberlite of the Jagersfontein mine is free from

pyrites, and to that is attributed the remarkable brilliancy and purity

of color for which the diamonds of this mine are celebrated. Their color

includes the blue, and they command the highest prices of any diamonds.

The Wesselton mine crystals are noted for their octahedra and purity.

The color and brilliancy are so superior that nearly all fine white

“Rivers” are rated as Wesseltons. The Robert Victor yields a big average

of fine white stones, and many of the crystals are very perfect and

beautiful. The Dutoitspan diamonds mostly show color, but many are

“fancy” and demand a high price. The Bulfontein crystals are usually

small white octahedras of very good color, but many are flawed. The De

Beers stones are good white, some color, some broken crystals and smoky

stones. The Kimberly diamonds are much the same as those from the De

Beers mine. The Premier is the largest diamond mine in the world. Of its

diamonds some have an oily lustre and are quite blue--many are of the

finest quality and color. This mine also produces a large number of

“false color” stones which change color in different lights. The

Voorspoed and the Koffyfontein produce fair white and some colored

diamonds.

Diamonds in small quantities are also found in Borneo, British and Dutch

Guiana, Australia, Sumatra, China and the United States.

One of the largest diamonds known (weight 367 carats) was found in

Borneo about a century ago, and belongs to the Rajah of Mattan. One of

the most celebrated is the Koh-i-noor (Mountain of Light), belonging to

the British crown. It weighed originally nearly 800 carats, but by

subsequent recuttings has been reduced to 103-3/4 carats. The Orloff

diamond, belonging to the Emperor of Russia, weighs 195 carats; the Pitt

diamond, among the French crown jewels, 136-1/2. The former, which came

from India, has been thought to have originally formed part of the

Koh-i-noor stone. The largest Brazilian diamond weighed 254-1/2 carats

and was cut to a brilliant of 125. Some of the South African diamonds

are also very large, one being found in 1893 weighing 971 carats, or

nearly half a pound. More recently a much larger one has been found,

weighing 3,034 carats. This has been cut into eleven pieces, the

largest, a drop brilliant, weighing 516-1/2 carats. This, called the

Star of South Africa, has been placed in King George’s scepter, and

another, of 309-3/16 carats, in his crown.

A rough diamond is a hard-looking, luminous object, somewhat like a

piece of alum, with a dull skin, called the “nyf,” over a brilliant

body. The ancients wore their diamonds uncut because they could not find

a substance that would grind or cut them. About 1,500 years ago,

however, it was found that by rubbing or grinding one diamond against

another the outer skin could be removed. At Bruges, in 1450, diamonds

were first polished with diamond dust. In Holland, in 1700, diamonds

were first cut with an idea of bringing out real beauty and brilliance

by cutting them square with a large flat table and some small facets,

ten in all, sloping to the edge of the square. From this beginning

cutters gradually added additional facets to increase the brilliancy

until there were thirty-four in all. Then came the English round-cut

brilliants with fifty-eight facets, but the diamond was left thick and

lumpy, until about seventy-five years ago, when an American cutter,

Henry D. Morse, of Boston, developed the cutting of diamonds to its

present perfection by fearlessly sacrificing weight to get proportion.

This greatly increased the price of diamonds, but enhanced their

brilliancy.

[Illustration: OLD SQUARE CUT DIAMONDS]

[Illustration: ENGLISH SQUARE CUT DIAMONDS]

All cutters have been compelled to follow this method, and the perfectly

cut brilliant of today has a depth from table to culet of six-tenths of

the diameter, of which one-third is above the girdle and two-thirds

below. In this form the diamond resembles two cones united at their

bases, the upper one cut off a short distance from its base, the lower

one having its extreme point cut off. It has fifty-eight facets, of

which thirty-three, including the table, are above the girdle and

twenty-five, including the culet, below the girdle. Stones which are not

scientifically cut in this true proportion, if too deep, are called

“lumpy,” if too shallow they are called “fish eyes.” A slightly spread

stone is desirable, provided it has not lost brilliancy, and so become a

“fish eye.” Looking larger than its weight indicates, it offers a larger

appearing diamond for the price of a smaller perfectly cut stone. Most

cutters remove as little of the rough stone as possible in cutting so as

to retain weight (they sell by weight). This often results in the

finished diamond being too thick at the girdle, making a lumpy stone.

Many people think deep, lumpy stones are most desirable. This is not

true, as they are imperfectly cut.

In preparing to cut a diamond the rough crystal is studied until the

grain is found. Along the grain another sharp-pointed diamond is ground

until there is a V-shape incision or nick. The blunt end of a flat piece

of steel is placed in this nick and a smart blow of a hammer divides the

crystal evenly and perfectly. After this “cleavage” has removed the

unnecessary portions, or they have been sawed off by the use of

rapidly-revolving thin wheels charged with diamond dust, the diamond is

set in a turning wheel and ground with another diamond until it takes

the shape in which we know it.

The fifty-eight facets are cut and polished one at a time on a

rapidly-revolving wheel charged with diamond dust and oil. It takes from

two and one-half to four days to properly cut a stone. Knife-edge girdle

diamonds are impractical owing to the liability of chipping the thin

edge in setting or by blows while being worn. Polishing the rough edge

of the girdle is rarely done and then usually to conceal a girdle which

is too thick or lumpy. The principal diamond cutting centers are

Amsterdam, Antwerp and New York.

[Illustration]

Inherent flaws can be perfectly understood by imagining a pond of water

frozen solidly to its center. At the shore, where the ice has been

partly forced out along the banks, it will be full of grass, leaves,

pebbles and sticks, and presents a broken and frosted appearance.

Further out there are only traces of such débris, some bubbles, spots,

etc. Out at the center is clear, transparent, unbroken, unflawed, purest

blue-white ice, such as you delight to see in your glass on a hot day.

So is it with diamonds; some (like the ice along the shore) are full of

cracks, carbon specks, bubbles, clouds, splits and cavities; some have

all of these; some only a few; others only one, and some are without

flaws.

[Illustration]

Of all the imperfections (not considering glaring cracks or nicks),

carbon spots are the most discernible. They range from mere specks

scarcely visible with a powerful magnifying glass, to large black spots

or clusters of large or small black specks sometimes quite plain to the

naked eye. These are carbon which failed to crystallize with the rest of

the diamond, or intrusions of titanic iron. The blackest and often most

numerous carbon specks occur in the finest white and blue-white stones.

“Capes” and other yellow diamonds are usually perfect, something in the

color of these stones seemingly being of a nature which helps clear and

perfect crystallization. Blue-white stones of exceptionally fine color

are often massed full of shaggy or jet-black carbon spots.

White specks and bubbles are common flaws, which vary in size and which

may be best illustrated by looking at a pane of glass in your window.

There you will find small knots, white bubbles and whitish specks.

These seldom injure the brilliancy, as they are often a glittering

silver color, more brilliant than the diamond.

Clouds are dark flat patches in the grain, of a brownish color, and

appear as a sprinkling of dust in a small patch in the interior. This

seldom injures brilliancy.

Glessen or glasses are flat sectional streaks having an icy appearance.

When large or abundant they disturb or cut off the proper reflection of

the interior light rays, causing an appearance known as “shivery.” When

clouds or glessen occur at the surface of a diamond they appear as

cracks, and if at or near the girdle are dangerous, as the stone is

liable to split or crack there when being mounted or by any hard blow,

which would result in the loss of a sliver or wedged-shaped piece out of

the edge.

[Illustration]

Surface flaws consist of nicks or cavities in the face of the stone

either above or below the girdle. The brilliancy of the diamond hides

these flaws when the diamond is clean, but when clouded with soap and

dust these cavities fill up and show plainly.

[Illustration]

Diamonds are so brilliant, the radiance from the facets so bewildering

to the eye, that the flaws cannot be seen by the human eye unless the

imperfection is pronounced and at the top surface of the diamond. Each

facet of a diamond (by reason of the method of cutting) is a window

looking down a clearly defined walled chamber, like a hall-way to the

culet. With a one-inch loup or magnifying glass such as watchmakers and

diamond dealers use, it is possible to clearly look down through each

facet and its hall-way to the culet, and observe throughout each chamber

the very slightest imperfection if one exists, thus thoroughly examining

and exploring the entire diamond.

Diamond brilliancy is of two kinds: “surface brilliancy” and “internal

brilliancy.” Light falling vertically on a diamond is reflected back in

straight, unbroken rays. This constitutes “surface brilliancy.” Light

falling in a slanting direction is partly reflected and partly enters

the stone; that part which enters is refracted or bent and causes the

“internal brilliancy.”

In a perfectly cut diamond, the facets are so carefully arranged that

entering rays of light jump from wall to wall of this transparent

enclosure and emerge again at the very point of entry. Cleverly arranged

mirrors sending a ray of light from one to all the others and back again

to the first will produce the same effect. Lights entering a diamond are

reflected, refracted and dispersed. The dispersion of a ray of white

light separates it into its component color rays. These are the spectrum

colors often seen radiating from a diamond. Placing a diamond in the

sun’s rays and holding a sheet of white paper at the proper angle to

catch the reflections from the stone clearly shows these colors.

[Illustration: MODERN AMERICAN CUT DIAMONDS]

Brilliancy is often said to be the most important quality of a diamond,

but that is not true. Yellow diamonds are more flashingly brilliant than

white stones that cost much more. In each color grade, greater

brilliance determines higher value over stones of the same color grade

with less brilliancy. The diamond is the hardest known substance in the

world, cutting and grinding all other known hard things, but itself only

cut and ground by its mates.

Because of their hardness, diamonds worn by many previous generations

remain as brilliant as they were in the beginning and they will continue

so to the end of time.

No other thing can scratch or mar the polished facets and sharp corners

of the diamond. It is the hardest of all known things. While all

diamonds are of practically the same hardness, this is not, however,

absolutely true, as stones from wet diggings or rivers are slightly

harder than those from dry diggings. All diamonds are infusible and

unaffected by acids or alkali. The heat of a burning building will not

affect them, they can be raked from the ashes uninjured and can only be

burned in oxygen under a scientifically produced intense heat of 4000°

F. While the hardest known thing, the diamond is brittle and can be

crushed to a powder. It is the only absolutely pure gem, being composed

of crystallized carbon--all others are composed of two or more elements.

* * * * *

The term “Shibboleth” has come to mean a countersign or password of a

secret society since the Biblical days, when the Ephraimites, who had

been routed by Jephthah, tried to pass the Jordan. They were made to

pronounce the word “Shibboleth” and were easily detected as enemies when

they pronounced it “Sibboleth.”

Why do We Get Hungry?

Hunger is a sensation partly arising in the stomach, since it may be

relieved temporarily by the introduction into the stomach of material

which is incapable of yielding any nutriment to the body. It may be due

to a condition of fulness of the vessels of the stomach, relieved by any

stimulus which, acting on the lining membrane, induces a flow of fluid

from the glands. But it also arises from a condition of the system,

since the introduction of nutriment into the blood, apart altogether

from the stomach, will relieve it. This is also evident from the fact

that hunger may be experienced even when the stomach is full of food,

and when food is supplied in abundance, if some disease prevents the

absorption of the nourishment, or quickly drains it from the blood.

Hunger may be partially allayed by sleep or by the use of narcotics,

tobacco and alcohol, all of which tend to diminish the disintegration of

tissues.

The Wonder Book of Knowledge The Marvels of Modern Industry and Invention, the Interesting Stories of Common Things, the Mysterious Processes of Nature Simply Explained · 第 156 / 162 题