SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF VICTORIA BY ONE WHO WAS THERE IN THE SIXTIES.
On Wharf Street, from the corner of Fort, looking north to the corner
of Yates, the buildings looked pretty much the same as now, being all
built of brick, with the exception of the wooden one to the south of
Sutro's wholesale tobacco warehouse on the corner of Yates and Wharf.
This wooden building was a saloon, kept by one who formerly had been
a prominent man politically, that is prior to 1859. I think this
building can be identified with the Ship Inn. The two-story brick
block to the south, erected and owned by Senator Macdonald, was
occupied by John Wilkie, one of the earliest of our wholesale
merchants. The next corner was Edgar Marvin's hardware store. Mr.
Marvin and his son Eddie, who came from the States in 1864, will be
well and favorably remembered by old-timers. He resided on Marvin's
Hill, at the back of St. Ann's Convent. Next comes the building
occupied by Henry Nathan, who was afterwards one of the early members
in the Commons to represent Victoria City. He was an English Hebrew,
and he and his father were prominent men and large property-holders
in the city, and I have no doubt are so still. He is standing in the
front of his office in the photo. I can well remember the day that
Henry Nathan and the balance of the Victoria contingent left for
Ottawa for the first time. They left on the steamer _Prince Alfred_
from Broderick's Wharf, in the inner harbor, and there was hardly a
square foot of room on the wharf to spare, the crowd was so great. In
fact, half of the town went to see them off, many locking up their
business places to do so. In the front of the next store may be seen
Thomas Lett Stahlschmidt, who represented the English wholesale
firm of Henderson & Burnaby. Next to Mr. Stahlschmidt is James D.
Robinson, who was bookkeeper for J. Robertson Stewart & Co., and who
is a resident of this city to-day, just died. Skipping the next two
buildings, we come to the auction rooms of a well-remembered business
man, P. M. Backus, one of the two prominent auctioneers of that time;
the other being James A. McCrea, spoken of by my friend, Mr. Higgins,
in one of his intensely interesting stories of early days in
Victoria. Both he and Mr. Backus were Americans, as were so many of
our business men of that day. Next Mr. Backus is Mr. J. R. Stewart,
just mentioned, and on the corner is Mr. Joseph Boscowitz. They
stand in front of the building occupied by Thomas C. Nuttall & Co.
Mr. Nuttall I remember as the agent of the Phoenix Fire Insurance
Company, and he did a large business in the city. Mr. Nuttall is
still a resident, although confined to the house through illness.
His was a familiar face on the street in those days, being a very
energetic business man. (Since died).
[Illustration: Wharf St., Northward.]
Upstairs in the building was the Oddfellows' Hall, where I was
initiated into the mysteries of Oddfellow-ship in 1868. Among the
prominent brothers present that evening were John Weiler, James S.
Drummond, James D. Robinson, Hinton Guild, James Gillon (manager Bank
of British North America), Joshua Davies, Judah P. Davies, Richard
Roberts, Joseph York, and Thomas Golden. All these prominent
Oddfellows, with the exception of James D. Robinson and Joseph York,
have gone to their rest. The waterfront side of Wharf Street, from
the Hudson's Bay Company's store south, is a blank until you reach
the old cooperage, next to the late custom house. There is an
historic oak tree alongside the cooperage, which is said to have been
used to tie up the Hudson's Bay Company's vessels in the earliest
times when wharves were few and far between. Beyond the old customs
house was Sayward's wharf and lumber yard, the lumber being brought
by schooner and scow from the mill to Victoria. The business had not
then attained the proportions that it has to-day under Joseph
Sayward, son of the founder of the business, who now lives in San
Francisco.
The next view represents Government Street, east side, from the Brown
Jug north to the St. Nicholas Building. The first building south from
there of any prominence was that now occupied by the British Columbia
Market, and then known as the Alhambra Building. The upper floor was
used as a public hall, and many grand balls were given here, as well
as other social events. The lower floor was used as Zelner's
pharmacy, and next door by Gilmore, the clothier. Alongside and using
the upper portion of Gilmore's Building also, is the Colonial Hotel,
one of the swell places of that day. I next recognize the store of
the well-known firm of W. & J. Wilson, clothiers and outfitters,
which was then conducted by the father and uncle of the present
proprietor, Mr. Joseph Wilson. With the exception of the Hudson's Bay
Company, Hibben & Co. (then Hibben & Carswell) and Thomas Wilson, the
draper, the firm of W. & J. Wilson is, so far as I can remember, the
longest established in Victoria. I can remember being fitted
out there on occasions as a school-boy. Their advertisement in the
_Colonist_, with their autograph underneath, occupied part of the
front page of the paper continuously for years.
[Illustration: Government St., Northward.]
The two-story wooden building in the middle of the block, between
Trounce Alley and Fort Street, is the Hotel de France, kept by P.
Manciet, and one of the two principal hotels of that day. Next was
McNiff's grotto, Mon's Laundry, The Star and Garter, Thomas Wilson &
Co., drapers, and farther on the two-story brick building, now Hibben
& Co., and farther on south J. H. Turner & Co. Of course all will
recognize the name as that of the Hon. J. H. Turner. The firm
occupied the whole of the building up and downstairs, as drapers and
carpet warehousemen, and I might state that the late Henry Brown,
Walter Shears, late custom appraiser, and Edward White were on the
staff. Next is one of the two meat markets, owned by Thomas Harris,
the first mayor of Victoria. His prominent figure may be seen on the
sidewalk looking across the street. With my mind's eye I can see him
at the Queen's Birthday celebration on Beacon Hill. The chief event
of the year was the racing on that day, and the mayor was an
enthusiastic horse fancier, and a steward of the Jockey Club. These
celebrations were nothing without Mr. Harris. The bell rings (John
Butts was bellman) and the portly figure of Mr. Harris on horseback
appears. "Now, gentlemen, clear the course," and then there is a
general scattering of people outside the rails; the horses with their
gaily dressed jockeys canter past the grandstand, make several false
starts, and off they go for the mile heat around the hill and back to
the grandstand. Oh, what exciting things those races were! Another
prominent figure at these race meetings was John Howard, of
Esquimalt. The race meetings without Messrs. Harris and Howard would
not have been the genuine thing, and, I must not forget to mention
Millington, who always rode Mr. Harris' horses at these meetings. I
believe he is still in the land of the living. I would we had such
Queen's weather as we had then. May was equal to July now for warmth,
and with beautiful clear skies, they were days worth remembering.
Everyone went out for the day and the hill was covered with
picnickers. The navy was represented by bluejackets and marines by
the hundreds, bands of music, Aunt Sally and the usual other side
shows. And lastly, I must not forget the music. The flagships of
those days were large three-deckers, line-of-battleships, such as the
_Ganges_ or _Sutlej_, which would make an ordinary flagship
look small. It was understood that the officers, being wealthy men,
subscribed liberally towards a fine band. It was a great treat to
hear the _Ganges'_ full band, as I have heard it in the streets
of Victoria preceding a naval funeral to Quadra Street Cemetery, and
very few I missed. But I have digressed and will proceed to finish
Government Street. The corner building, now torn down to make way for
the Five Sisters' Block, was occupied by William Searby, chemist, who
was my Sunday School teacher. He left Victoria for San Francisco,
and I had the pleasure of renewing his acquaintance years later,
and, I think, he is still in business in Market Street. In the
front of Searby's stands John Weiler, father of the Weiler brothers
of our day. The upper portion of this building was called the
Literary Institute, and the first I remember of Mr. Redfern was
at an entertainment given here for some charity, when he sang that
beautiful tenor song from "The Bohemian Girl," "Then You'll
Remember Me," and it has been a favorite with me ever since. W. K.
Bull, who presided over so many municipal elections, and was a very
well-read man, also took part, giving a reading on Australia, and
ending up with a recitation.
Crossing the street, we come to the Brown Jug, the same to-day as
then, but kept by Tommy Golden, a well-known character then. In the
front is a hydrant with a water-cart getting its load for
distribution through the city. The water was conveyed in wooden pipes
from Spring Ridge and sold by the bucket, which may be seen on the
shafts of the cart. Forty of these buckets represented one dollar.
Opposite the Brown Jug and across the street is a vacant lot, now
occupied by the Bank of Commerce. The opposite corner to this is also
vacant, but soon after was built the present brick building by J. J.
Southgate and Captain Lascelles, R.N., of the gunboat _Boxer_.
[Illustration: Fort St., Eastward.]
This view represents the south side of Fort Street, from the Brown
Jug corner east. The wooden building next is a photograph gallery
owned by Fred. Dally. He with R. Maynard were the only ones in the
business at that time, I think. Next is Dr. Powell's residence and
surgery; the house is not visible, being set back from the street.
Alexander McLean's "Scotch House" clothing store is plainly seen.
Amongst those standing in front are Mr. McLean, the proprietor; James
Fell, who later on was mayor; William McNiffe, of the "Grotto," and
Thomas Harris, already mentioned, who is on horseback. Above McLean's
is Murray's Scotch bakery, where I have gone often for bread and
shortcake. Four doors above is A. & W. Wilson's, plumbers and gas
fitters, and Tom Wilson may be seen standing on the sidewalk--he
is the only one of the brothers not here to-day. Next is Birmingham
House, Kent & Evans, Charles Kent, the city treasurer, being senior
partner. Across Broad Street is John Weiler's upholstery store. Then
comes James Fell & Co., grocers; then M. R. Smith & Co., bakers.
Above Douglas Street there were few or no stores. On the upper corner
was D. Babbington Ring, an English barrister, who always walked about
with a dog-whip in hand and several dogs after him.
Above the corner lived Dr. Baillie, a cousin of Sir M. B. Begbie, who
was afterwards drowned in South America. We come next to the
Congregational Church, which lived a short life as a church, for Dr.
Ash bought it and turned it into a residence, taking down the
steeple, which may now be seen in the photo. It passed into the hands
of Dr. Meredith Jones after Dr. Ash's death. Above this I remember
little as to individual houses, but know that they were very
scattered.
[Illustration: Yates St., Eastward.]
This view represents Yates Street, from the corner of Wharf, south
side. I have briefly mentioned Sutro's tobacco warehouse, and this is
the Yates Street side of it. There was a large figure of a Turk with
a turban and large pipe as a business sign on the corner of the
street. Next to Sutro's is Joseph Boscowitz's, the pioneer dealer in
furs, and as may be seen he is not now far from his former place of
business. Next door is the firm of Wolf & Morris, that I cannot now
remember. The saloon next door was kept by Burns & Dwyer--the latter,
I think, still lives on Pandora Street. Next door but one is William
Dalby's saddlery shop, and he is with us to-day. Guy Huston, the
gunsmith, occupied the next store. He was the principal gunsmith in
the city, and his two daughters, both married to prominent men
of business, are still residents of the city. Alfred Fellows, iron
and hardware merchant, who comes next, was the founder of the
business of E. G. Prior & Company. The Fashion Hotel was kept by John
C. Keenan, an American, and was a first-class gambling house and
dancing hall. High play was the order, and many a Cariboo miner in
the winter months threw away his easily-got gold by the hundreds
here. Keenan was a prominent fire chief in those days of volunteer
firemen. Wells Fargo's Express comes next, presided over by Colonel
Pendergast and Major Gillingham. On the arrival of a San Francisco
steamer there was a rush to Wells Fargo's for letters, and soon after
the receipt of the express bags at the office the place would be full
to the doors. I might state that it was the custom then for all mail
steamers to fire a gun on arrival, either at the mouth of the harbor
or inside the harbor itself, so that we gathered at the post-office
and express office soon after. Either Colonel Pendergast or Major
Gillingham then mounted a chair and called off the addresses, and the
letters were either flipped or passed on to their owners by those
nearest the caller, for it seemed as if everybody knew each other.
Twenty-five cents was the postage paid in advance. Next door is
the telegraph office and Barnard's express. Our old friend, Robert
McMicking, had charge of the telegraph, and maybe the express also,
but I have forgotten. Langley & Co., the well-known druggists, I can
remember ever since I can remember Victoria. The building is pretty
much now as it was then, only larger. Those connected with its early
history have passed away, excepting it may be Mr. Pimbury; Mr. A. J.
Langley, who died in late years; Mr. Jones, who went into business in
Cariboo and died there, and Mr. Pimbury, who went to Nanaimo
and into business for himself. Between Langley's and the corner
of Langley Street, was Jay & Bales' seed store. Both these early
pioneers have gone to their rest, although the business is still
carried on on Broad Street by Mr. Savory.
On the corner is the Fardon building, which in 1859 was occupied by
Hibben & Carswell, the beginning of the firm of T. N. Hibben & Co.
Mr. Hibben, Mr. Carswell and Mr. Kammerer, the principals, have all
gone to their rest, but the firm still lives and nourishes. An
incident connected with the junior partner might here be recalled.
One summer day Mr. Carswell, if I remember right, was one of a picnic
party, who got lost in the woods near Muir's farm 30 miles from town,
and the balance of the party returning to town without him, a search
party was organized and a reward offered by Mr. Hibben for his
partner's return. They left next morning, and after a long and strict
search, as the party was returning to town to report their want of
success, whom should they see ahead of them but the lost James
Carswell, trudging along on the highroad to town. He was told that
they were a search party sent out to look for him, and that they were
glad they found him. "Found me!" said Mr. Carswell; "why, I am on my
way home!" and they then proceeded to town together. When the party
reached home Mr. Carswell was told that Mr. Hibben had sent the
searchers, and had offered a reward for his finding. This Mr.
Carswell objected to pay, protesting that they had not found him, but
that he had found himself, and was on his way home when they met him.
It caused a great deal of merriment, and was a standing joke for some
time. An incident like this would be the talk of the town in
those good old days, and many visits would be paid to Campbell's
corner, kept by John Molowanski, a Russian, to hear if any news had
been received of the lost Mr. Carswell.
The first time I remember going to Hibben & Carswell's was in 1860,
when I went to exchange a prize book I had won at school, and which
was imperfectly bound, having several pages out of place. It was then
I first saw Mr. Kammerer, and he informed me afterwards that he had
just then been promoted from porter to assist in the office, and from
this dated his rise in the firm to a partnership. Upstairs in this
building was the Masonic hall and Fardon's photographic studio.
Across the street are Moore & Co., druggists, an old established
business of 1859 or '60, the present proprietor's father being the
founder of the business. The Bank of British North America next door
is, so far as I can remember, the pioneer bank in Victoria. I
assisted in the assaying department for a short time in 1867. The
next building is the famed Campbell's corner (the Adelphi). Who among
our pioneers does not remember the genial face of Frank Campbell, his
corner and all the associations connected with it? When was Frank not
at the corner? I should say only when he was eating and sleeping.
Morning, noon and until 11 o'clock at night he was on duty. All the
births, deaths and marriages were recorded on his intelligence
board. All the news of the day, events from abroad and at home--all
were recorded by Frank. There never lived a better-tempered or
so good-hearted a fellow. Before going home after a lodge or a
political meeting the last thing was to call at the "corner" for
the latest bit of news. It was the meeting-place of many who made
it their headquarters. Evening after evening for years Frank
had his audience. Everyone knew him and to know him was to like
him--"_requiescat in pace_." Across Government Street and next to
Zelner's drug store I see the sign of J. S. Drummond, stoves and
tinware. He was a grand master of Oddfellows, a prominent Mason, a
fire chief, an officer of militia, and served a term in the city
council. Beyond Drummond's I cannot make out any more signs or
buildings, even with the magnifying glass, and I have looked long
and hard until my eyes ache. A deal might be written of many more
of the old streets and their inhabitants, but it might be undertaken
by someone else with a better memory, and who was older and took a
prominent part in affairs of that day.