MY BOYHOOD DAYS IN VICTORIA.
How dear to this heart are the scenes of my childhood,
When fond recollection presents them to view!
The orchard, the meadow, the deep-tangled wildwood,
And every loved spot which my boyhood then knew.
Oh! give me back my boyhood days,
The sportive days of childhood.
The merry games with bat and ball,
The rambles through the wildwood.
As I stated in my experiences in San Francisco in the early fifties,
and in consequence of the loss of my father's vessel near Alberni, we
came north to Victoria after gold was discovered in British Columbia.
We took passage in the steamer _Northerner_, which was filled
with passengers and freight, and came via Portland, arriving in
Esquimalt on the 11th day of February, 1859. I might state that all
the ocean steamers docked at Esquimalt then, and the passengers were
freighted round in a smaller steamer to the Hudson's Bay wharf in our
harbor. The first thing that attracted our attention on coming into
the harbor was the high palisade of the fort, which ran along Wharf
Street from the corner of Bastion to Broughton Street, up thence
to Government Street, along Government to Bastion Street, to the
cigar store with the brass plate on, now occupied by North and
Richardson. Opposite Fort Street there was an entrance, and another
on Wharf Street.
[Illustration: Fort Street, extending through the fort.]
In the centre of the large gates there were smaller ones. These small
gates were opened every morning at seven o'clock on the ringing of
the fort bell, which was suspended from a kind of belfry in the
centre of the yard. To the north were the stores and warehouses, and
to the south large barns; the residences were situated on the east
side of the fort.
The stores were patronized by all the colonists, not then being
confined to the Company's servants, as in former times. Fort Street
looked very different to what it does now. The roadbed was composed
of boulders, which, being round, made rough riding, and so muddy,
too! Try and imagine it. The sidewalk was of two-inch boards, laid
lengthwise, three boards wide, I think, and commenced at the Brown
Jug corner, running up for three or four blocks.
Where the Brown Jug now stands was a large orchard and garden,
surrounded by a whitewashed fence, which ran along Government Street
to Broughton, taking in the whole block eastward. Many an apple have
I had from this orchard, and apples were apples in those days,
whatever they may be now.
The Company's bakery, where we got our bread, was across Fort Street,
on the site of the Five Sisters block, and was a log-built house,
whitewashed. I think part of the bakehouse was to be seen in late
years in the rear of a carpenter's shop on Broad Street, also I think
the baker himself is still alive, and named James Stockham. He made
excellent bread and charged twenty-five cents a loaf, but such loaves
they were, being at least three times as large as modern loaves.
There was a good story told of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the
price of flour and bread during the gold excitement, which reflected
great credit on the Chief Factor of the company. It was said that a
scheme was concocted to corner all the flour in the country (_a la_
trust) by some enterprising citizens across the border; and the
Company was approached by these gentlemen, who proposed to them to
buy their whole stock of flour for that purpose. To the credit of
the Company's officials, they refused to do so, and sold at the usual
price, against the combination, and so broke it up.
[Illustration: Sir James Douglas and Lady Douglas.]
After we had got settled in our new home the question of sending me
to school was discussed, and easily settled, for it was Hobson's
choice. The Colonial School, as it was called, was on the site of the
present Central School. It was the only one I can think of except
Angela College, and maybe a private school. There was a fee of five
dollars a year charged, payable quarterly in advance.
After you left Blanchard Street, the way to the school was by a
pathway through the woods. The country around View and Fort Streets,
up to Cook, was very swampy, and covered mostly by willow and alder
trees. In fact there was a small swamp or lake on View Street, where
there was good duck shooting in winter. When I went to the Colonial
School in 1859, it was taught by a young man named Kennedy, whose
father was Dr. Kennedy, of the Hudson's Bay Company, and whose
brother was in the same service. Some months later he resigned, and
his successor was an Irishman named W. H. Burr, whose temper was
quick, like my own, and although he tried to make me a good scholar,
I am afraid I did not do him or his teaching justice, and I
remember two good beatings he gave me far better than the useful
knowledge he tried to inculcate.
It was thus: Our school might aptly be termed a mixed one, for it
consisted of boys and girls who sat together. This arrangement just
suited me, for I was fond of the girls. There were white boys and
black boys, Hebrews and Gentiles, rich and poor, and we all sat close
together to economize room. One day a dispute arose between a white
boy and a black boy, and ended in a fistic encounter. I was mainly
instrumental in bringing it about, and backed my man until the sponge
was thrown up by the white boys' friend. Mr. Burr heard of the
occurrence through the boys not reporting at the school the next
morning, and an investigation by the master revealed my part in the
affair. I was sentenced to be flogged for aiding and abetting. This
was announced in the morning, and to be carried out in the afternoon.
My friends collected around me after school closed and various advice
was given me as to how I should act under the trying circumstances.
After the consultation was over it was decided that I should put on a
pair of old gloves inside out, as it was supposed the cane would not
hurt as much that way, and it being dusk at four o'clock, when we
broke up in winter, the master might not see the difference in the
color of my hands. I was on hand at flogging time, against the advice
of some of my friends, who counselled me not to show up. Mr. Burr
laid on the cane on my hands, and at first I did not feel it much,
but after about half the whipping was given it got unbearable, and I
could not hold out any longer, so bolted, was stopped, knocked down,
and eventually I got under the seats and desks, and was followed by
the irate master and hit on any part that was exposed to view. Mr.
Burr did not give up until he was tired out, and I was glad
to take advantage of this fact and get out, and off home, a much
wiser if not a better boy. I got little sympathy at home when I told
them that I had been whipped for causing a fight between a white boy
and a black boy named White.
My next whipping was interrupted by the master's wife, who frequently
interfered, and by her pleadings for the culprit and offering to go
bail for his future good behavior, got him off with lighter
punishment. I shall always think kindly of Mrs. Burr, for if ever
there was a good, kind-hearted woman it was she. Mr. Burr often went
to auctions, and before going, he appointed a monitor, who had charge
during his absence. One day during his absence all hands vacated our
desks and proceeded to the vegetable garden, which contained a good
assortment of all kinds, and as boys are known to be over-fond of raw
carrots and turnips, especially if stolen, we were soon at work
digging up our favorite vegetables. After peeling them with our
jackknives we might have been seen sitting on the fence and school
porch eating as only boys can eat. In the midst of our vegetarian
feast the lookout announced the distant approach of the master, and
then there was a scattering of the boys, as half-eaten carrots and
turnips were thrown away, and we regained our seats in school looking
as innocent as lambs. Then Mr. Burr appeared on the scene. Mrs. Burr
must have seen us, but was too good-hearted to tell her husband all
she knew.
I have said the school was reached by a trail through the woods, and
very pretty the woods looked in summer. The school and grounds were
surrounded by spreading oaks, which covered that part of the city, or
country as it was then called, and it was under these trees we sat
with the girls and ate our lunch, or rested in the shade after our
innings at ball. Wild flowers, that now are only found miles away,
were found there in profusion. We children always took our lunches,
it being considered too far to go home for the midday meal.
Many will remember the old schoolhouse which was pulled down to make
way for the present Central School. It was built of square logs and
whitewashed, and was occupied by the master and his family. The
school proper occupied only about a third of the building, and was a
large room extending from the front to the back of the building. Of
the old boys and girls who survive those early school days I can
think of these: Judge Harrison; John Elford, of Elford & Smith;
Theophilus Elford, of Shawnigan Lake Lumber Company; Mr. Anderson, of
Saanich; the Tolmie and Finlayson boys; Edward Wall (late Erskine &
Wall); Ernest Leigh, son of the late city clerk, now of San
Francisco, and John and Fred Mecredy, also of San Francisco. Of the
girls there are Sarah Allatt, now Mrs. Jos. Wriglesworth; Sylvestra
Layzell, now Mrs. O. C. Hastings, and her sister Lucy, now also
married; and Sarah Pointer, now Mrs. Carter. I had nearly forgotten
Ned Buckley, who left here for the States and became an actor of some
note.
Of those dead I can best remember David Work, of Hillside Farm, and
my chum, the late James Douglas, son of Sir James, then Governor. If
I remember right, he was unintentionally the cause of my second
whipping. He seemed much attached to me, and many were the rides we
had together in his trap, which brought him to school every morning.
He was a kindred spirit, wilful like myself, and had a habit of
suddenly getting up in school and announcing to the master that he
was going home, or it might be for some long drive, usually to
Cadboro Bay. Mr. Burr would remonstrate with him, but generally gave
way, and off he went. As he and I got intimate he wanted me to go
with him on these expeditions, and often at the unseemly hours of two
or three o'clock, during school.
One day he got up suddenly in his seat and said: "Mr. Burr, I am
going home and I want Fawcett to go with me; that will be all right,
won't it?"
"Now, Master James," said Mr. Burr, "I cannot allow this; I must
protest against this going away during school hours. If His
Excellency only knew, what would he say?"
"Oh, that will be all right, Mr. Burr."
"No, no, James, it is not all right, and as for Fawcett going with
you I cannot allow it, Master James; heed me or I must have a word
with Sir James about you."
[Portrait: William Leigh.]
All this time James was standing up at his desk with his riding-whip
in his hand, and making signs for me to follow, which I proceeded to
do, the master protesting all the time. I got my reward next day, but
not as bad as I would have got had not good Mrs. Burr come to my
rescue. We drove to Upland Farm, then the home of City Clerk Leigh
and his family, at Cadboro Bay. Mrs. Leigh was always good to James
and I on these visits to the farm, getting us the best to eat and
plenty of fresh milk to drink. By some understanding between Sir
James and Mr. Burr we continued these afternoon drives, and it may be
imagined how we boys enjoyed them. We continued friends to the last,
and years after I worked like a beaver when he was elected a member
of the Legislature for Victoria City. He was godfather to my eldest
son, who was named after him. I have still a handsome book given
me by Sir James at the last break-up of school before I left.
We now and then hear complaints by prudish people of the boys bathing
on Victoria Arm, on Deadman's Island and elsewhere without a full
bathing suit. What would they say to the boys of my time bathing in
Nature's suit only, and that on the waterfront from James Bay bridge
all around to the Hudson's Bay Company's wharf? We bathed there at
all times, and to our heart's content, and never was exception taken
to it by the authorities, or in fact by anyone. Use is second nature,
and I suppose that accounted for it.
Have any of my readers ever seen Deadman's Island (the island which
is opposite Leigh's mill) when it was covered with trees and shrubs?
Well, up these trees were corpses of Indians fastened up in trunks
and cracker boxes, but mostly trunks, the bodies being doubled up to
make them fit in the trunk, and then suspended like Mahomet's coffin
between heaven and earth. There were also some Indians buried in the
shallow soil and surrounded by fences, and again boxes of corpses
were piled one on top of the other. This island was a favorite place
of the school boys as a rendezvous for swimming, and many a summer's
afternoon and Saturday have I spent there in the good old days gone
by.
I shall now relate an incident of one of these expeditions to the
island by myself and three others. I can recollect the names of only
two members of the expedition of that Saturday, and I might say that
they were my schoolfellows of the Collegiate School, which occupied
the site of Mr. Ellis's residence on Church Hill, and was afterwards
burnt down. I left the Colonial School in 1860, and transferred to
the Collegiate School, which was conducted as a church institution.
Rev. C. T. Woods was principal, with Rev. Mr. Reese, "Cantab."
Williams, and Messrs. Vincent and Palmer, French and drawing and
music, as the full staff. Well, about the Deadman's Island affair.
One Saturday afternoon in midsummer four of us--Robert Branks, a
brother of Mrs. Doctor Powell, William Galley, James Estall and a
fourth whose name I cannot now remember hired a boat at Lachapelle's,
near James Bay Bridge, and made for Deadman's Island. We enjoyed the
luxury of running about the island like the savages on Robinson
Crusoe's island, then dived into deep water, swam around for a time
and landed to dry and warm ourselves at a fire we had made for that
purpose. All boys know that a fire is indispensable to swimming and
bathing.
While squatting on the ground around the fire the idea struck me that
by the way the wind was blowing it would not need much encouragement
for the fire to take hold of some of the boxes of bones, which may
have represented an Indian chief, his wife or child. I then proposed
that we accidentally on purpose "set fire to the whole lot." After a
council of war it was finally decided to carry out my suggestion, as
a grand wind-up of our day's outing. Time after time we dived off,
and swam around till tired, and then came ashore to dry ourselves at
the fire. This is the exact routine of boys' swimming expeditions of
these present days, and will be to the end of all time. We got tired
of it at last and dressed, preparing to go home, when the subject of
the firing of the Indian corpses was again discussed. Should we do it
or not? Robert Branks was with me all right, but one boy was fearful
of the consequences. "The chief and all the Indians on the Songhees
reserve would soon see the fire and would be after us." There was
something in this, for there were hundreds then, where there are now
dozens, and it was risky.
After each had said his say, we put it to the vote, and it was
carried three to one that the fire take place. We set fire to a lot
of pieces of broken coffins at two separate places alongside a pile
of boxes or trunks of bones. Then we made all haste to get aboard our
craft, up sail and away. We had hardly reached the bridge and crossed
the harbor from the bottom of Johnson Street to the Indian reserve,
when the fire could be seen plainly as having been a success from our
point of view--so much so that we made greater haste to get to the
boathouse. We lost no time in settling up for the boat hire, and
making the best of our legs in getting home. The paper next morning
was early sought for, and with fear and trembling, too. There was
good reason for fear, for the paper gave an account of the affair.
The Indians had made complaint to the police, and they were searching
for the culprits. I was afraid to go out at all, much less to go to
school, and every knock at the door made me start. I at last
confessed to my parents my share in the business, and it was decided
that I must "lay low" for a few days, and lucky it was for me I did
not get what I deserved, a good whipping, as my mother said. The
quartette of boys kept their counsel, and we escaped a visit from the
police.
Some time later we visited the island to see the result of the fire,
and found that all traces of the burying-ground had vanished, the
surface of the island being swept clean, with not a trace of boxes,
bones or trees, and it has remained so till this day.
In the absence of Chinese market gardens, and the kitchen garden now
attached to most homesteads, we had to go to a distance for our
vegetables. It took us the best part of a day to go to Hillside Farm
for a sack of assorted vegetables. Several boys would start together
for this trip into the country. It is astonishing how the absence
of streets or roads lengthens this distance, and so it was then. We
started after breakfast and took our lunch, going across country by
trail, each with a sack, which was filled by old Willie Pottinger,
the gardener, for a shilling. Very good and fresh they were, and very
cheap this was considered. With our loads we started for home, and
the further we got from Hillside the heavier the vegetables got, and
therefore the more stoppages we made to rest. At last Port and
Blanchard Streets were in sight, and we were home again, tired out
and hungry as hunters.
The last I remember of the Hudson's Bay fort was during the contest
brought on by the burning question of the day, namely Union and
Tariff vs. Free Port. The mainland represented Tariff and the island
Free Port. Should we join with the mainland with a tariff or remain
Free Port? The hustings was erected in the fort, and the pros and
cons were discussed by the rival candidates. I took part, although
too young to vote, and worked day and night for my friend Amor De
Cosmos, who was in favor of union and tariff, and we won the day,
too.
Before I conclude I would again speak of the large stores in the
fort, which supplied the colonists with all they required except
meats. It was said at the time that you might get anything at the
stores, from a needle to an anchor. This might well have been true,
for it was the repository of all the Company's goods for supplying
their servants with all their necessaries.
One of the first visits I paid was with my mother, as in San
Francisco, and amongst various articles I carried away was a pair of
Old Country boots. These boots I am not likely to forget, as I wore
them so long. The soles were twice the usual thickness of even boys'
boots, and, like a horseshoe, had a row of nails with projecting
square heads a quarter inch thick. These boots left their mark
wherever they went, and, as may be supposed, as I was a strong,
healthy boy with a roving disposition, they travelled considerably.
Wear them out I could not, kicking rocks and stubbing my toes against
everything I came against, for I found them awkward and heavy to
carry, and in fact everything gave way before them. My poor mother
often called out at the marks of the square-headed nails on her
clean floors, which in those days were not covered with carpets or
linoleum, as now. These boots were a feature of the store, and were,
I think, $3.75 or $4 a pair--but enough of hobnailed boots.