TUCKER OFFERED THE COMMAND OF THE PERUVIAN FLEET, WITH THE
RANK OF REAR ADMIRAL--ARRIVES IN LIMA--NO PRECEDENT FOR
THE RETURN OF MONEY--COMMISSIONED A REAR ADMIRAL IN THE
NAVY OF PERU--COMMANDS THE ALLIED FLEETS OF PERU AND
CHILE--SPANISH WAR--TUCKER'S PLAN FOR A NAVAL CAMPAIGN;
PROJECTED EXPEDITION AGAINST MANILA--CESSATION OF
HOSTILITIES--TUCKER RETIRES FROM THE COMMAND OF THE
FLEET, AND IS APPOINTED PRESIDENT OF THE PERUVIAN
HYDROGRAPHICAL COMMISSION OF THE AMAZON--CROSSES THE
ANDES AND REACHES THE AMAZON--EXPLORES THE YAVARI
RIVER--ORDERED TO THE UNITED STATES TO SUPERINTEND THE
BUILDING OF AN EXPLORING STEAMER--RETURNS TO THE AMAZON
WITH STEAMER _Tambo_. EXPEDITION UP THE UCAYALI AND
EXPLORATION OF THE TAMBO RIVER--ORDERED TO THE UNITED
STATES TO PROCURE A STEAMER OF LIGHT DRAUGHT OF
WATER--RETURNS TO THE AMAZON WITH STEAMER
_Mairo_--SECOND EXPEDITION UP THE UCAYALI--CANOE
EXPEDITION UP THE PACHITEA AND EXPLORATION OF THE PICHIS
RIVER--EXPEDITION UP THE AMAZON AND HUALLAGA
RIVERS--ORDERED TO LIMA. ORDERED TO NEW YORK TO
SUPERINTEND THE CHARTS MADE BY THE HYDROGRAPHICAL
COMMISSION--PUBLICATION OF CHARTS ABANDONED ON ACCOUNT OF
THE FINANCIAL CONDITION OF PERU--LETTER FROM PRESIDENT
PARDO--LETTER FROM MINISTER FREYRE--TUCKER RETIRES TO HIS
HOME IN PETERSBURG, VIRGINIA--OCCUPATIONS AND AMUSEMENTS
OF OLD AGE--DEATH--CHARACTER AND QUALITIES--CONCLUSION.
While residing in Raleigh, North Carolina, Tucker received a letter
from the Peruvian Minister to the United States, requesting an
interview on affairs of importance. Going to Washington, Tucker saw
the Minister, and the result of the interview was that he accepted a
proposition to go to Peru and enter the Navy of that Republic as a
rear-admiral, his commission to be dated from the time of his arrival
at Lima. He was allowed to take with him two staff officers, one with
the rank of captain and the other with that of commander.
When Tucker entered the Navy of Peru, that Republic was engaged in a
war with Spain. Spain had never recognized the independence of her
former South American colonies, and thinking a favorable opportunity
had arisen for asserting her dormant claims, the Spanish Government
sent an iron-clad frigate, accompanied by several smaller vessels, to
attack the Chilean and Peruvian seaport cities on the Pacific coast.
The attack upon Valparaiso, the chief port of Chile, was successful,
but the Spanish squadron was beaten off at Callao by the Peruvian
batteries. Whilst preparing for the defense of Callao, the Peruvian
Government determined to place its naval establishment on such a
footing that it would be able to meet any force Spain could send to
the Pacific. Tucker had, and most deservedly, the reputation of being
a hard fighter, a thorough disciplinarian, and a splendid seaman;
hence the Peruvian Government of President Prado directed its Minister
at Washington to engage his services if possible. The cause was one
which enlisted all Tucker's sympathies, and he agreed to take command
of the Peruvian fleet. Tucker became much attached to Peru, and served
the Republic zealously and faithfully. He had many warm friends in
Lima, and no matter what party held the Government, the trust and
confidence reposed in him by the authorities in Lima was always
implicit.
Tucker arrived in Lima accompanied by his personal staff, David Porter
McCorkle, captain of the fleet, and Walter Raleigh Butt, commander and
aide. Just before their leaving New York the Peruvian Minister handed
Tucker a bag of gold, with which he was told to pay all the traveling
expenses of himself and staff; this was done, but when the party
arrived at Lima the bag was still half full. Tucker insisted on
returning this surplus to the Government, but there was no precedent
for such a thing, and it was not without some difficulty that there
could be found an officer of the treasury authorized to receive and
receipt for the unexpected money.
The appointment of a foreigner to command their fleet was distasteful
to some of the Peruvian officers, and this fact coming to Tucker's
knowledge, he informed General Prado, the President of the Republic,
that he had no wish that any officer should be forced to serve
unwillingly under his command, and preferred resigning if the
dissatisfaction at the appointment of a stranger to command the fleet
was general or deep-seated. The officers who were dissatisfied were
relieved from duty, and others were easily found who were not only
willing but anxious to serve under Tucker.
The Peruvian squadron was lying at Valparaiso when Tucker hoisted his
flag on board the frigate _Independencia_. The Chilean squadron was
also lying at Valparaiso, and Tucker, as senior officer present, was
in command of the allied fleets of both Peru and Chile.
An efficient state of drill and discipline was soon established in the
fleets. A feeble attempt at mutiny broke out on one occasion during
the temporary absence of Tucker, but it was easily quelled without
bloodshed, and no similar attempt was ever again made whilst Tucker
was in command. Officers of the Peruvian Navy, who were themselves
opposed to giving foreigners high rank in their service, admitted that
the fleet had never been in so good a condition for effective service
as whilst it was under Tucker.
The Spanish squadron had retired from the coast, but was expected to
return as soon as it had been refitted and revictualed, but no
apprehension was felt as to the result of another attack by the
Spanish, for the allied fleets were believed to be fully equal to the
task of protecting the coasts and ports of the Republics.
Tucker's plan of naval operations was to sail with a small squadron,
composed of the most efficient vessels under his command, for Manila,
a most important dependency of Spain in the East Indies. He expected
to take the Spaniards entirely by surprise, to capture all Spanish
vessels in port, and to hold Manila and the other ports of the
Philippine Islands until peace was established.
In order to provide for the reappearance of the Spanish fleet on the
coast during his absence, Tucker advised the allied Governments to
enroll as a naval reserve all the Peruvian and Chilean masters, mates
and crews of merchant vessels, pilots and mariners engaged in
employments on shore. A part of his plan was that all merchant
steamers carrying the flags of the Republics, which could be made
available for war purposes, should be inspected and held ready for
active service in the Navy and manned by the naval reserve whenever
the Government should think it necessary to employ them. This force,
with the harbor defense iron-clads, and the forts and batteries on
shore, Tucker thought would be a sufficient protection for the coast,
whilst his squadron of the most efficient sea-going vessels was absent
in the East Indies, where the capture of Manila would have dealt a
heavy blow to Spain, and rendered an honorable peace, carrying with it
an acknowledgment of the independence of Peru and Chile, a matter of
easy attainment.
This plan, which would probably have been entirely successful if
carried out with skill, daring and judgment, as it would have been by
Tucker, was favorably considered by the Governments of the allied
Republics, but it was not carried out, probably on account of the
financial embarrassments under which the Republics labored, and which
rendered it exceedingly difficult to find the funds required to fit
out the expedition.
The Manila expedition having been abandoned, and the Spanish fleet
which had been employed on the Pacific coast having returned home,
Tucker requested permission to visit Lima, in order that he might lay
before General Prado, President of the Republic, a plan for making an
exploration and survey of the Peruvian or Upper Amazon River and its
tributaries. The President heartily approved of the enterprise, for
the Government was at that very time considering the practicability of
opening better communications between the west coast and the eastern
part of the country, and of finding an outlet by the waters of the
Amazon for the rich productions of the interior.
Tucker resigned his commission as rear-admiral in the Navy of the
Republic, and was immediately appointed President of the Peruvian
Hydrographical Commission of the Amazon. He left Lima with a full
corps of assistants, and made his way across the mountains to the head
of navigation on the Palcazu river, where the party was received on
board a Government steamer that had been dispatched from Iquitos to
meet them. The headquarters of the Commission was established at
Iquitos, the principal settlement on the Upper Amazon river, and the
place where the Government factories and magazines were located.
In the small steamer _Naps_, belonging to the Government, Tucker made
an exploring expedition of two hundred and fifty miles up Yavari, the
river which forms the boundary between Peru and Brazil.
None of the Peruvian steamers on the Amazon being suitable for
exploring and surveying purposes, the Government at Lima ordered
Tucker to proceed to the United States and procure such a vessel as
was required for the duty pertaining to his Commission. In obedience
to this order Tucker spent some months in the United States, and had a
steamer built by Messrs. Pusey, Jones & Co., of Wilmington, Delaware,
expressly adapted to the navigation of the shoals and rapids of the
Upper Amazon. This vessel, named the _Tambo_, was delivered to Tucker
at Para, the Brazilian city at the mouth of the Lower Amazon.
Embarking on board the _Tambo_, Tucker took the steamer up the river
to Iquitos, where supplies were taken on board sufficient to last for
several months. He then proceeded to make an important expedition up
the Upper Amazon, the Ucayali and the Tambo rivers. The Tambo river
had never been explored, and it was thought that it presented a
feasible route for navigation to San Ramon, a military station in the
heart of the interior, only about thirty miles distant from the large
and important city of Tarmo, which is connected by railway with Lima.
Leaving Iquitos, the _Tambo_, with the Commission on board, passed up
the Amazon to the mouth of the Ucayali river, up the Ucayali past the
rapids of the "Devil's Leap," and entered the Tambo river. The Tambo
was found to be a narrow stream, full of rocks and rapids and not
practicable for navigation by steamers. When the steamer _Tambo_ could
ascend no higher, Tucker fitted out a small boat and pulled some
twenty miles farther up the river, but everywhere found such
obstructions as rendered it an impracticable route to the interior. It
is, perhaps, to be regretted that time did not allow of an examination
of the other affluents of the Usayali trending towards San Ramon and
Tarmo.
On his return to Iquitos, Tucker was again dispatched to the United
States to procure another and smaller exploring steamer. During his
absence Captain James Henry Rochelle was directed by the Government at
Lima to take charge of the Hydrographical Commission as its acting
president.
After an absence of some months, Tucker returned to Iquitos with the
new steamer, which was named the _Mayro_, and was little more than a
large steam launch, intended for use where a vessel of greater draught
of water could not be employed.
The next expedition decided upon was for the exploration of the water
route towards Huanaco, by way of the entirely unknown river Pichis.
Most of the tributaries of the Ucayali had been traveled more or less
by the Jesuit priests from the College of Ocopa, but none of them had
attempted the route of the Pichis, the banks of which were in
possession of roving tribes of Indians, who permitted no stranger to
pass through their country. It was thought possible, and even
probable, from the stories told by the natives, that the head of the
Pichis river would be found well suited for being the eastern terminus
of the trans-Andean railway.
In February, 1873, the _Mayro_, with a detachment of the Commission on
board, was dispatched from Iquitos, with orders to await at the mouth
of the Pachitea river the coming of the _Tambo_. Tucker embarked on
board the _Tambo_ on the 1st of April with the main body of the
Commission, and arrived at the confluence of the Pachitea and Ucayali,
seven hundred and sixty-five miles from Iquitos, on the 13th of May.
The river had commenced to fall, which rendered it prudent not to
ascend the Pachitea in steamers, for had one of them got aground
whilst the water was falling, it would probably have remained in that
situation until the next annual rise of the river.
The water of the Amazon, and the same may be said of all its
tributaries, begins to rise about October, and continues to increase
its flood until December. In December there is a short period of no
rise, or perhaps even a slight fall, after which the river again
continues to rise until May, when the permanent fall commences and
continues until the following October, when the annual flood again
sets in. Sand bars are constantly forming and shifting in the channel
of the river, and for a steamer to run on one of them whilst the water
is falling endangers the detention of the vessel until she is floated
off by the annual rise in October.
The annual fall of the river having set in when the _Tambo_ reached
the mouth of the Pachitea, Tucker determined to continue the
expedition in canoes. Six of the largest and best canoes that could be
procured from the Indians were fitted out, and the whole Commission
embarked in them, accompanied by its escort of a dozen Peruvian
soldiers under the command of Major Ramon Herrera.
From the 19th to the 30th of May the Commission prosecuted its survey
of the Pachitea without interruption, but on the 30th, at a place
called Cherrecles Chingana, fifteen or twenty Cashibo Indians came
down to the left or north bank of the river, and by signs and gestures
signified a desire for friendly communication. The canoes were paddled
in to them, and some few presents of such articles as could be spared
were distributed among them, and, apparently, received most
thankfully. But the Cashibos did not let the occasion pass without
showing the treachery for which they are notorious. When the interview
was ended, seemingly in the most amicable manner, and as the canoes of
the Commission were paddling off, a flight of arrows was discharged at
them by a party of Cashibos who had been lying in ambush during the
interview. A few volleys from the Remington rifles, with which all
the members of the Commission were armed, soon dispersed the savages
and drove them to the jungle.
Of all the savage tribes that roam about the head waters of the
Ucayali, the Cashibos alone are cannibals. They are brave, cunning and
treacherous, and are only surpassed by the Campas in their hatred of
the white man. The Campas inhabit the spurs and hills at the foot of
the eastern Cordilleras, where the Ucayali and Pichis rivers have
their origin. They are a fierce, proud and numerous tribe, and are
held in great fear by their lowland neighbors. They permit no
strangers, especially no whites, to enter their country, and the
members of the expedition under Tucker were the first white men who
ever ascended the Pichis into the regions of this warlike tribe.
The canoes of the expedition entered the mouth of the Pichis on the
6th of June. Being an unknown river, it became necessary to give names
to the prominent points as they were discovered; and these names were
used subsequently in making the charts of the surveys of the
Commission.
The navigation of the Pichis was found to be clear and unobstructed
from its mouth for a distance of fifteen miles up to Rochelle Island,
which is in latitude 9 deg. 57' 11" south, longitude 75 deg. 2' 0"
west of Greenwich, and three thousand one hundred miles from the
Atlantic coast, following the course of the Amazon river. Rochelle
Island was reached on the 7th of June, and was named after Captain
James Henry Rochelle, the senior member of the Commission. Any
steamer which can navigate the Pachitea can ascend the Pichis this far
without difficulty, but above Rochelle Island the navigation becomes
more difficult, and probably impracticable for any but steamers of
very light draught and strong steam power.
On the 15th of June the expedition arrived at the head of canoe
navigation on the Pichis. The point was named Port Tucker, after the
president of the Commission. Port Tucker is in latitude 10 deg. 22'
55" south, longitude 74 deg. 49' 0" west of Greenwich, distant three
thousand one hundred and sixty-seven miles from the mouth of the
Amazon, following the course of the river, and one hundred and ninety
miles in a direct line from the Pacific coast. The lofty mountains so
plainly in sight from Port Tucker are the eastern spurs of the Andes,
the chosen land of the savage and numerous Campas Indians.
Several days before the expedition reached the shoals which terminate
the navigation of the Pichis, the tom-toms or drums of the Campas were
heard night and day beating the assembly of the warriors. The purpose
for which the braves were to be assembled was not a matter about which
there was the least doubt, but probably sufficient numbers were not
got together in time to execute their intentions, for no attack was
made on the Commission whilst it was in the Campas country.
During this expedition the Palcazu river was also ascended to Port
Prado, or Puerto del Mairo, the head of navigation for steamers of
light draught. Port Prado is in latitude 9 deg. 55' 22" south,
longitude 75 deg. 17' 45" west of Greenwich, distant three thousand
one hundred and nineteen miles from the mouth of the Amazon, following
the river, and only about forty miles from the important interior city
of Huanaco, to which place it is in contemplation to extend the
trans-Andean railway. If the road were continued from Huanaco to Port
Prado there would be a complete trans-continental line of
communication by railway and steamboats from Lima in Peru to the mouth
of the Amazon.
Two new rivers were discovered by the Commission flowing into the
Pichis. One of them was named the Trinidad, from having been
discovered on Trinity Sunday, and the other was called Herrera-yacu,
after Major Ramon Herrera, of the Peruvian Army, who commanded the
escort of the Commission. The supplies of the expedition were running
too short to allow of any but a cursory examination of these two
rivers. The Trinidad, trending to the westward, can only be of value
as affording a water route to the plains lying between the Pichis and
the Ucayali, but it is possible that the Herrera-yacu may furnish a
nearer water route to Cerro de Pasco than any yet known.
Whilst the canoes of the Commission were descending the Pachitea, they
were attacked by the Cashibos, who assembled on the banks of the
river, and, waiting until the leading canoes had passed, let fly
flights of arrows at the canoe which brought up the rear. The Cashibos
were dispersed by a few rounds from the Remington rifles of the
Commission, and the explorers met with no further forcible opposition
on the way to the steamers awaiting them at the mouth of the Pachitea,
where they arrived after a canoe voyage of forty-one days, during
which many difficulties and some dangers were encountered and
overcome. Not a single person under Tucker's command was killed, or
died from sickness, during this expedition, and, singular to relate,
after all the hardships and exposure endured the explorers were in
much better health when they returned to their steamers than when they
left them at the beginning of the expedition.
On the 15th of July, 1873, the steamers _Tambo_ and _Mayro_,
comprising the exploring squadron, reached Iquitos after an absence of
three months and ten days. From the 15th of July to the 18th of
September the Hydrographical Commission was on shore at Iquitos,
employed making charts of the surveys of the late expedition, whilst
the steamers were being refitted for further service.
On the 18th of September the Commission again embarked and proceeded
to the mouth of the Yavari river, which forms the boundary between
Peru and Brazil. The greatest pains were taken to properly establish
this point. On a small island in the middle of the river, and very
near its confluence with the Amazon, many astronomical observations
were taken, resulting in giving the latitude 4 deg. 18' 45" south,
longitude 69 deg. 53' 10" west of Greenwich, the distance from the
Atlantic coast by the courses of the Amazon being one thousand eight
hundred and eleven miles. From the Brazilian frontier the main stream
of the Amazon was surveyed and its tributaries examined by the
Commission up to Borja, where the river rushes from a narrow gorge of
the mountains and leaps into the lowlands. Borja is in latitude 4 deg.
31' 37" south, longitude 77 deg. 29' 43" west of Greenwich. From the
Atlantic coast to Borja, a distance of two thousand six hundred and
sixty miles, the Amazon is navigable, without serious obstruction or
difficulty, for either river or sea-going steamers of several hundred
tons burthen.
It would take many long years to make a thorough survey of the waters
of the Amazon, which is, in fact, more of an inland sea than a river,
with hundreds of branches forming a network of communicating channels
extending for sixty or seventy miles on each side of the main stream.
At the height of the annual floods the whole country, with the
exception of the highest land, on which the towns are invariably
built, is covered with water, forming a vast swamp and jungle,
traversed in every direction by navigable channels, which at the
season of low waters become rivers or natural canals.
The principal object for which the Commission presided over by Tucker
had been instituted was accomplished when the main channels of the
river and of its affluents was traced from the Peruvian and Brazilian
frontiers to the head of navigation of the main river and of its
tributaries, so as to show the nearest approach by water
communication to the eastern terminus of the trans-Andean railway.
This duty having been executed, Tucker was ordered to proceed to Lima
for conference with the Government as to the results of the
explorations and surveys he had made.
After consultation with Tucker, Senor Pardo, the President of the
Republic, directed that charts of the surveys made by the
Hydrographical Commission should be published in New York, and that
Tucker and two members of the Commission should be detailed to prepare
the work for the press and superintend the engraving of the plates.
The other members of the Commission returned to their homes, having
completed the duty for which they were engaged.
There were some changes from time to time in the Peruvian
Hydrographical Commission of the Amazon, but the following list of its
members may be taken as correct:
President--John Randolph Tucker. Members--James Henry Rochelle, David
Porter McCorkle, Walter Raleigh Butt. Secretaries--Timoteo Smith,
Maurice Mesnier. Surgeon--Francis Land Galt. Civil Engineers--Manuel
Charron, Manuel Rosas, Thomas Wing Sparrow, Nelson Berkeley Noland.
Steam Engineers--John W. Durfey, David W. Bains.
On arriving in the United States, Tucker established an office in New
York, and, assisted by Captain Rochelle and Mr. Sparrow, soon had the
charts and plans, with explanatory notes, ready for the hands of the
printers and engravers; but in consequence of the financial
difficulties into which Peru had fallen, the publication was delayed
from time to time and finally abandoned altogether, as is shown by the
following letter from Senor Pardo, President of the Republic:
LIMA, Marzo 13, 1877.
"_Sr. J.R. Tucker._
"_39 Broadway, New York City._
"_Estimado amigo_:--He recibido su apreciable carta de 10 del
pasado, que me es grato contestar manifestandole que las
graves dificultades economicas porgue hoi atravissa la
Republica, oblejan el Gobierno a dar por terminada la comiseon
de que fue ud encargado para la publicacion de los Mapas y
Cartas topograficas de las regiones Amazonicas.
"En esta virtud, se sirvira ud. entregar al senor Freyre,
Ministro del Peru en Washington, las reforidas Cartos, Mapas,
y todas las demas utiles pertenecientes al Gobierno del Peru,
que hoi existen en poder de la Comision que ud. preside; todo
bajo de inuentario y con las formalidades necesarias.
"En cuanto al pagar de sus suldos y los de los Sennores que
forman parte de esa Comision, he ordinado al Ministro de
Hacienda disponga lo conveniente para su pronto abono, y juzgo
que asi-luego les servan completamente satisfechos.
"Deseandole a ud. la mejor conservacion, me as grato
reiterarle las expresiones de mi amistad y particular estima."
"Su afrino S.S.
"PARDO."
[TRANSLATION.]
"LIMA, March 13, 1877.
"_J.R. Tucker, Esq._
"_39 Broadway, New York City._
"_Esteemed Friend_:--I have received and answer with pleasure
your appreciated letter of the 10th ultimo, apprising you that
the grave economical difficulties which at present afflict the
Republic, obliges the Government to order the termination of
the commission with which you are charged for the publication
of the maps and charts of the Amazonian regions.
"For this reason, you will be pleased to deliver to Mr.
Freyre, Minister of Peru in Washington, the referred to
charts, maps and all other articles belonging to the
Government of Peru, which now remain in charge of the
Commission over which you preside; all to be delivered under
inventories and with the necessary forms.
"In regard to the payment of the salaries of yourself and the
other gentlemen who form part of the Commission, I have
ordered the Minister of the Treasury to take measures for the
prompt disbursement of what may be due, and I judge that in a
short times these claims will be completely satisfied.
"With my best wishes, it gives me pleasure to repeat the
expression of my friendship and particular esteem.
"Truly your faithful Servt.,
"PARDO."
In compliance with the directions of President Pardo, the charts made
by the Commission were delivered to the Peruvian Legation at
Washington. These charts were all ready for publication, and had they
been published would have afforded much valuable information in regard
to the Upper Amazon and its tributaries, water courses which are daily
becoming more and more important to commerce, and which are destined
in the not distant future to be navigated by lines of ocean as well as
by lines of river steamers.
The following letter from Colonel Manuel Freyre, Peruvian Minister at
Washington, describes the charts and plans which Tucker delivered to
the Legation, and which it is to be hoped are still preserved:
"_Legacion del Peru._
"WASHINGTON, Marzo 22 de 1877.
"_Senor Don Juan R. Tucker, Ex-Presidente de la
Comision Hidrografica del Amazonas._
"La caja que dijo le. depositada en poder del Consul Tracy, ha
sido recibida en esta Legacion, y contiene los siguientes
planos; a saber:
"1st. Un plano del Rio Amazonas Peruano, desde lo boca del rio
Yavari hasta Borja, termino de la navegacion a vapor, dibujado
sobre diez pliegos y en una escala de una pulgada por cada das
millas. Los rios Ytaya y Pastaza estan incluidos en esta
Plano, que cuenta 848 millas del rio Peruano Amazonas, 45
millas del rio Ytaya, y 7 millas del rio Pastaza."
"2d. Un plano del rio Yavari desde su boca hasta la
confluencia de los rios Yacarana y Yavarasina, dibujado,
sobre das pliegos y en una escala de una pulgada por cada dos
millas. Este plano cuenta 220 millas del rio Yavari.
"3d. Un plano del rio Nanay desde su boca hasta el termino de
la navegacion para vapores de poco calado debujado sobre dos
pliegos. Este plano contiene 160 millas del rio Nanay.
"4th. Un plano del rio Tigre-Yacu desde su boca hasta un punto
111 millas aniba de la boca, dibujado sobre dos pliegos y en
una escala de una pulgada por cada dos millas."
"5th. Un plano del rio Huallaga desde la boca hasta
Rumi-Callirina, el termino de la navegacion para vapores,
dibujado sobre dos pliegos y en una escala de una pulgada por
cada dos millas. Este plano cuenta 169 millas del rio
Huallaga.
"6th. Un plano del rio Morona desde su boca hasta un punto 37
millas arriba de dicha boca, dibujado sobre un pliego y en una
escala de una pulgada por cada dos millas."
"7th. Un plano del rio Potro desde la boca hasta el termino de
la navegacion para vapores de poco calada, dibujada sobre un
pliego y en una escala de una pulgada por cada dos millas.
Este plano contiene 64 millas del rio Potro.
"8th. Un plano del rio Ucayali desde la boca hasta la
confluencia de los rios Urubamba y Tambo, dibujado sobre nueve
pliegos y en una escala de una pulgada por cada das millas.
Los rios Urubamba y Tambo, desde sus bocas hasta el mas alto
punto donde espracticable la navegacion a vapor, estan
incluidos en este plano, que contiene 885 millas del rio
Ucayali, 24 millas del rio Urubamba, y 53 millas del rio
Tambo."
"9th. Un plano del rio Pachitea desde su boca hasta la
confluencia de los rios Palcazu y Pichis, dibujado sobre dos
pliegos y en una escala de una pulgada por cada dos millas.
Este plano contiene 191 millas del rio Pachitea."
"10th. Un plano del rio Palcazu desde la boca hasta el puerto
del Mairo, dibujado sobre un pliego y en una escala de una
pulgada por cada dos millas. Estate plano contiene 37 millas
del rio Palcazu.
"11th. Un plano del rio Pichis desde la boca hasta el termino
de navegacion en canoas, dibujado sobre un pliego y en una
escala de una pulgada por cada dos millas. Una parte del rio
Herrera-yacu y otro parte del rio Trinidad se hallan en este
plano, que contiene 85 millas del rio Pichis, 4 millas del rio
Trinidad, y 5 millas del rio Herrera-yacu.
"12th. Un plano del rio Amazonas Peruano y sus afluentes,
dibujados sobre un pliego y en una escala de una pulgada por
cada quince millas. Este plana contiene 1661 millas del rio
Amazonas Peruano y sus afluentes.
"13th. Todas las mencionadas planos estan dibujados sobre
treinta y cinco pliegos, siendo cada pliego treinta pulgados
de largo por quince pulgada de ancho.
"14th. Un plano del rio Amazonas Peruano y sus afluentes,
dibujado sabre un pliego y en una escala de una pulgada por
cada diez millas, siendo el pliego cines pies de largo por
cinco pies de ancho. Este plano contiene en un solo pliego
todos los reconocimientos verificados por la Comision
Hidrografica del Amazonas, que son por todo 2945 millas.
"Loo demas planos dan los mismos reconocimientos mas
detalladamenente.
"15th. Un plano del pueblo de Yquitos, dibujado sobre un
pliego.
"Dios que a le.
"MANL. FREYRE."
[TRANSLATION.]
"_Legation of Peru._
"WASHINGTON, March 22d, 1877.
"_John R. Tucker, Esq., Ex-President of the Hydrographical
Commission of the Amazon._
"The box deposited by you with Consul Tracy has been received
at this Legation, and contains the following charts, to wit:
"1st. A chart of the Peruvian Amazon river, from the mouth of
the River Yavari to Borja, the termination of steam
navigation, drawn upon ten sheets, and on a scale of one inch
to each two miles. The Rivers Itaya and Pastaza are included
in this chart, which contains 848 miles of the Peruvian Amazon
river, 45 miles of the Itaya river, and 7 miles of the Pastaza
river.
"2d. A chart of the Yavari river from its mouth to the
confluence of the Rivers Yacarana and Yavarasino, drawn upon
two sheets and on a scale of one inch for each two miles. This
chart comprises 220 miles of the Yavari river.
"3d. A chart of the River Nanay from its mouth to the
termination of navigation for steamers of light draught,
drawn upon two sheets and on a scale of one inch for each two
miles. This chart contains 160 miles of the River Nanay.
"4th. A chart of the River Tigre-yacu, from its mouth to a
point 111 miles above its mouth, drawn upon two sheets and on
a scale of one inch for each two miles.
"5th. A chart of the River Huallaga, from its mouth to
Rumi-Callirina, the termination of steamer navigation, drawn
upon two sheets and on a scale of one inch for each two miles.
This chart comprises 169 miles of the Huallaga river.
"6th. A chart of the River Morona, from its mouth to a point
37 miles above its mouth, drawn upon one sheet and on a scale
of one inch for each two miles.
"7th. A chart of the River Patro, from its mouth to the
termination of navigation for steamers of small draught, drawn
upon one sheet and on a scale of one inch for each two miles.
This chart contains 64 miles of the Patro river.
"8th. A chart of the River Ucayali, from its mouth to the
confluence of the Rivers Urubamba and Tambo, drawn upon nine
sheets and on a scale of one inch for each two miles. The
Rivers Urubamba and Tambo, from their mouths to the highest
point to which steamer navigation is practicable, are included
in this chart, which contains 885 miles of the River Ucayali,
24 miles of the River Urubamba, and 53 miles of the River
Tambo.
"9th. A chart of the River Pachitea, from its mouth to the
confluence of the Rivers Palcazu and Pichis, drawn upon two
sheets and on a scale of one inch for each two miles. This
chart contains 191 miles of the River Pachitea.
"10th. A chart of the River Palcazu, from its mouth to Port
Mairo, drawn upon one sheet and on a scale of one inch each
for two miles. This chart contains 37 miles of the River
Palcazu.
"11th. A chart of the Pechis river, from its mouth to the
termination of canoe navigation, drawn upon one sheet and on a
scale of one inch for each two miles. A part of the River
Herrera-yacu, and also a part of the River Trinidad, are
included in this chart, which contains 85 miles of the River
Pichis, 4 miles of the River Trinidad, and 5 miles of the
River Herrera-yacu.
"12th. A chart of the Peruvian Amazon river and its affluents,
drawn upon one sheet and on a scale of one inch for each 15
miles. This chart contains 1661 miles of the Peruvian Amazon
river and its affluents.
"13th. A chart of the River Ucayali and its affluents, drawn
upon one sheet and on a scale of one inch for each 15 miles.
This chart contains 1284 miles of the River Ucayali and its
affluents.
"All the above mentioned charts are drawn upon 35 sheets, each
sheet being 30 inches long and 15 inches broad.
"14th. A chart of the Peruvian Amazon river and its affluents,
drawn upon one sheet and on a scale of one inch for each ten
miles, the sheet being 5 feet long by 5 feet broad. This chart
contains, on one single sheet, all the surveys made by the
Hydrographical Commission of the Amazon. The other charts give
the same surveys more in detail.
"15th. A plan of the town of Iquitos, drawn upon one sheet.
"May God guard you.
"MANL. FREYRE."
Tucker was in the sixty-seventh year of his age when he retired to his
home in the City of Petersburg, Virginia, where he had purchased a
comfortable house with a lawn and garden attached. Here he passed the
evening of an active life in the enjoyment of a private fortune,
which, though not large, was sufficient to supply all his moderate
wants and simple tastes. Relatives and friends frequently visited him;
he read much, and books, especially the older English classics, were a
source of much pleasure to him; the improvement of his lawn and garden
was a pursuit which afforded him unfailing interest and occupation.
On the 12th of June, 1883, he was apparently in his usual good health.
In the course of the morning a friend called on him, and they
conversed together for some time, seated in the shade of a tree on the
lawn. His friend having taken his departure, Tucker reseated himself
for a few minutes in his chair, suddenly arose, straightened up his
tall form to its full height, and fell forward--dead. Physicians were
immediately summoned, but all the efforts to revive him were
ineffectual. He had died from disease of the heart; passing away from
this world without a struggle or a sigh, and going where souls as pure
as his have nothing to fear.
His remains were taken to Norfolk, Virginia, where they were received
by old friends and comrades, who knew and loved him well, and
interred by the side of his wife's grave, in a beautiful private
cemetery near the city.
Admiral Tucker possessed many of the qualities of a great commander.
His judgment was excellent, and it was very rarely the case that he
was mistaken as to what it was possible for the force at his disposal
to accomplish. He always commanded the respect and confidence, as well
as the good will, of his men. A strict disciplinarian, the prompt and
unhesitating obedience to orders he exacted was cheerfully rendered by
his subordinates. His plans were coolly and deliberately formed, and,
having been once determined upon, were carried out with energy and
resolution. In the ordinary intercourse of private life he was so
gentle, generous and genial that his friends and associates felt for
him a regard approaching affection. In youth he was an eminently
handsome man and in maturer years his presence was imposing. Sailors
and Indians are fond of giving personally descriptive names to those
with whom they are thrown in contact; when Tucker was a lieutenant he
was called "Handsome Jack" by the men-before-the-mast, and the
warriors of the savage tribes that wander about the head waters of the
Amazon knew him as the "Apo," the meaning of the word being "High
Chief."
In concluding this sketch of the eventful life of John Randolph
Tucker, it is but doing justice to his memory to say that the
sea-service never produced a more thorough and accomplished sailor,
and that there never was bred to the profession of arms a more
honorable and gallant gentleman.
* * * * *
[Illustration: JAMES HENRY ROCHELLE]
NOTES
ON THE
Navigation of the Upper Amazon
AND ITS
PRINCIPAL TRIBUTARIES
BY
CAPTAIN JAMES HENRY ROCHELLE
Member of the late Peruvian Hydrographical Commission of
the Amazon.
NOTES.
THE AMAZON.
Springing from Lake Laracocha, in the heart of the Andes, the Amazon
winds its way through the eastern Cordillera of Peru, a rapid and
turbulent stream, until, passing through a narrow gorge in the
mountains at the pongo de Manseriche, it leaps into the lowlands and
flows for two thousand six hundred and sixty miles in a direction
nearly east through the vast plains of Peru and Brazil, fed on its way
by tributaries which are themselves great rivers, and finally pouring
its immense volume of water into the Atlantic ocean. From the Atlantic
up to the Peruvian frontier the river is known as the Lower or
Brazilian Amazon, and sometimes as the Solimoens; above the Brazilian
frontier the river lies wholly in Peruvian territory and takes the
name of the Peruvian Amazon or Maranon, but is commonly spoken of as
the Upper Amazon. It is of the navigation of the Upper Amazon that
these notes will treat.
RISE AND FALL OF THE RIVER.
The waters of the Upper Amazon and its tributaries begins to rise
annually in October, remains stationary for a short time in December,
then continues to rise until May, when it commences to fall. November,
December, January, February, March and April are considered the
months of high water, and June, July, August and September comprise
the low-water season. October and May are sometimes months of high and
sometimes of low water.
DEPTH OF WATER.
During the season of low water a minimum depth of twenty-four feet is
found in the channel of the Upper Amazon, from the Brazilian frontier
to the mouth of the Ucayali river at Nanta, eighteen feet from the
mouth of the Ucayali to the mouth of the Huallaga river, and twelve
feet from the mouth of the Huallaga to Borja, where further navigation
is rendered impracticable by the rapids and falls of the pongo de
Manseriche.
CURRENT.
From the Brazilian frontier to the mouth of the Ucayali river the
current of the Amazon is three miles per hour; from the mouth of the
Ucayali to the mouth of the Potro river three and one-fourth miles per
hour; from the mouth of the Potro to the mouth of the Morona river
three and a-half miles per hour; and from the mouth of the Morona to
Borja, at the head of steamer navigation, the current is three and
three-fourths miles per hour. This is the usual and average current to
be met with, but it increases or diminishes with the rise and fall of
the river and, also, with the narrowing or broadening of the channel.
PILOTS.
In order to prevent running upon sand-bars, which are constantly
forming and shifting and frequently changing the bed of the channel,
the services of experienced pilots are indispensable to the safe
navigation of the Upper Amazon and its tributaries. It is not
difficult to obtain such pilots, and they are frequently expert
hunters and fishermen as well as pilots.
BEST TIME FOR NAVIGATING THE RIVER.
When a steamer on the Upper Amazon runs aground, it is almost always
in consequence either of the ignorance of the pilot or of the
unskillful handling of the vessel. To get aground when the water is
falling endangers the detention of the vessel until she is floated off
by the next rise of the river, which may not occur for months; getting
aground when the water is rising usually necessitates a delay of only
a few hours, as the rising water soon floats the vessel off. Hence it
is, of course, that the navigation of the Amazon is attended with much
less difficulty when the waters of the river are rising than when they
are falling.
FUEL.
Coal is not to be found on the Upper Amazon; the steamers burn wood,
which is abundant, cheap and makes good fuel. Wood should be ordered
in advance at certain points, but in case a steamer gives out of fuel
all that has to be done is to haul in to the bank, send the crew on
shore with axes, and cut as much wood as is required.
DISCHARGING AND RECEIVING CARGO.
In the absence of wharves on the Upper Amazon and its tributaries,
vessels lay alongside of the banks whilst discharging or receiving
cargo. The banks at the usual stopping places afford good landings;
wharves are not needed and it would be difficult to construct them so
that they could be used at all stages of the water.
IMPORTS.
It may be well to say a word about the trade of the Upper Amazon.
There are no import or export duties for this part of Peru, nor are
any duties paid on goods passing up the Brazilian Amazon to Peru.
Coarse cotton cloth is worn by nine-tenths of the inhabitants who are
civilized enough to wear clothes at all. The demand for this cloth is
large and will grow from year to year, and of all coarse cotton cloth
in the market the American is preferred. The plantain is the native
substitute for bread, but wheat flour is used by the mercantile and
official classes; there is a steady demand for Baltimore and Richmond
flour, which brands are supposed, probably with reason, to stand the
climate better than flour manufactured elsewhere. Bacon hams sell for
one dollar per pound, but the demand for them is small and the article
is soon spoiled by the climate. Axes, hoes, spades and machettes are
much in demand, and there is a limited demand for improved firearms;
ready made clothing, and articles of household furniture for the
houses of the richer persons of the community, are usually imported
from Europe.
EXPORTS.
The exports of the region of the Upper Amazon are not as valuable as
they are destined to become when the productions of the rich valleys
of eastern Peru find an outlet to market by way of the river. Among
the principal articles of export may be enumerated, hats, from
Mayubamba (Panama hats); rum, made from the sugar cane (cachaca);
dried fish (payshi); and Indian rubber (jebe). The Indian-rubber tree
abounds in the forests of the Upper Amazon, and the gathering of the
gum is a profitable industry. Specimens of gold have been obtained
from the natives about the pongo de Manseriche, and rich deposits of
the precious metal will without doubt be discovered at some future
time, but no search even can be made for it until the fierce and cruel
savages, who have undisputed possession of the country beyond Borja,
shall have been subdued.
MOUTH OF THE YAVARI RIVER.
Commencing at the Yavari river, which forms the boundary between Peru
and Brazil on the south side of the Amazon river, and following the
Upper Amazon and its principal tributaries up to the head of
navigation, the first place to be noted is the mouth of the Yavari
river:[2] Latitude 4 deg. 18' 45" south; longitude, 69 deg. 53' 10"
west of Greenwich; magnetic variation, 5 deg. 38' 54" east;
thermometer (Fahrenheit), 76 deg.; elevation above sea-level, 266
feet; distance from the Atlantic ocean, following the course of the
river, 1811 miles; current, in the Amazon, 4-1/2 miles per hour; width
of the Yavari river at its mouth, 500 yards; width of the Amazon, 1200
yards; depth of water in the channel of the Amazon, 36 feet. As the
Yavari river marks the boundary between Peru and Brazil on the south
side of the Amazon, special pains were taken to ascertain correctly
the latitude and longitude of its mouth; the observations for the
latitude and longitude were taken on a small islet, probably
overflowed at high water, in the middle of the lower mouth of the
river.
It was said in Iquitos that, in 1874, Captain Guillermo Black,
President of the Peruvian Boundary Commission, ascended the Yavari in
a small steamer a distance of 500 miles from its mouth, and 300 miles
farther in canoes to a point where there was barely two feet of water
in the channel, at which point the latitude was determined to be 7
deg. 1' 22" south, and the longitude 74 deg. 8' 25" west of Greenwich;
elevation above the sea-level, 800 feet.
TABATINGA (BRAZIL).
Distance from the Atlantic, 1825 miles; current, 4-1/2 miles per hour;
depth of water, 36 feet; width of river, 800 yards.
Tabatinga is the Brazilian frontier post on the north side of the
Amazon. Captain Azevedo, of the Brazilian Navy, gives the latitude of
this place as 4 deg. 14' 30" south; longitude, 70 deg. 2' 24" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 6 deg. 35' 10" east.
LETITIA.
Latitude, 4 deg. 10' 57" south; longitude, 69 deg. 59' 21" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 5 deg. 57' 40" east; elevation above
sea-level, 274 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 1828 miles.
Letitia is the Peruvian frontier post on the north bank of the Amazon.
A fort, intended to command the passage of the river, was projected
but not erected at this point. It is probable that the passage of
steamers up the Amazon cannot be stopped by forts and batteries at any
point on the river below Tamshiyacu.
LORETO.
Latitude, 3 deg. 54' 20" south; longitude, 70 deg. 7' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 5 deg. 11' 24" east; thermometer, 78
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 286 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
1865 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; width of river, 1300 yards.
Loreto is the most eastern Peruvian town of any importance on the
Amazon. It is situated on the north or left bank of the river. Near
it resides a tribe of Indians, partly civilized, called the Ticunas.
CAMACHEROS.
Situated on the right or south bank of the river; current 2-1/4 miles
per hour; width of river, 1800 yards.
MAUCALLACTA.
Situated on the right or south bank of the river; width of river, 2500
yards.
PEBAS.
One mile from the Amazon, on the left or north bank, and one mile up
the River Ambiyacu. The current of the Amazon at Pebas is 2-1/2 miles
per hour; distance from the Atlantic, 2009 miles.
ORAM.
On south or right bank of the river; current, 2-1/2 miles per hour;
width of river, 1000 yards; depth of water, 36 feet.
IQUITOS.
Latitude, 3 deg. 44' 15" south; longitude, 73 deg. 7' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 5 deg. 55' east; thermometer, 78 deg.;
elevation above sea-level, 295 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2126
miles; current, 3 miles per hour; depth of water, 36 feet.
Iquitos is on the north bank of the Amazon, at a point where the river
is divided by an island into two channels; from the town to the island
the river is 1800 yards wide, and the channel on the other side of
the island has about the same width. The Government buildings and
works are situated at this place, and it is the largest and most
important town on the Upper Amazon. It is a place of considerable
trade, and in it are established several mercantile houses which
import their goods directly from Europe and the United States by way
of Para. The anchorage is good at all times, and vessels, whilst
discharging or receiving cargo, can lay in security alongside the high
bank that lines the whole front of the town. This is an advantage not
to be underrated when it is remembered that there are no wharves on
the Upper Amazon.
TAMSHIYACU.
Situated on a high bank on the south side of the river, distant 2146
miles from the Atlantic; thermometer, 76 deg.. At this place the river
is narrow, has only one channel, and the current is strong. It is
probably the only position on the Amazon, below the mouth of the
Ucayali, where vessels could be prevented from passing, up or down, by
heavy guns mounted in forts or batteries.
MOUTH OF THE UCAYALI RIVER.
Latitude, 4 deg. 28' 30" south; longitude, 73 deg. 21' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 2' east; thermometer, 80 deg.;
elevation above sea-level, 318 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2189
miles; current in the Amazon, 3 miles per hour; depth of water in the
channel of the Amazon, 30 feet; width of the Amazon, 1300 yards.
Unfortunately, immediately at the month of the Ucayali neither the
banks of that river nor those of the Amazon afford a place suitable
for the location of a town. Nauta, on the north bank of the Amazon,
seven miles above the mouth of the Ucayali, is the nearest place at
which it is practicable to build houses not liable to be swept away by
the annual floods.
NAUTA.
Latitude, 4 deg. 31' 30" south; longitude, 73 deg. 27' west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 2' east; thermometer, 78 deg.;
elevation above sea-level, 320 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2195
miles; current 3-1/4 miles per hour; depth of water, 30 feet; width of
river, 1200 yards. Situated on the north bank of the Amazon, near the
confluence of that river and the Ucayali, Nauta is well located for
grasping the trade of both rivers, and ought to become a place of
importance. Of course, the six or seven miles that vessels have to
ascend the Amazon to reach the place after leaving the Ucayali
constitutes a drawback, especially in the case of vessels not
propelled by steam; but no desirable place can be found below and near
the mouth of the Ucayali where buildings could be erected and vessels
could load and unload with facility at the season of high water. Below
and adjoining Nauta the banks are high and present a better site for a
town than the one on which it stands.
SAN REGIS.
Distant from the Atlantic 2230 miles; current, 3-1/3 miles per hour;
average current between Nauta and San Regis, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
MOUTH OF THE TIGREYACU RIVER.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2245 miles; current, 3-1/2 miles per hour;
average current between San Regis and the mouth of the Tigreyacu,
3-1/4 miles per hour. The Tigreyacu can be navigated by steamers of
considerable size for some distance; its waters are dark and clear,
and those tributaries of the Amazon having dark and clear waters are
usually unhealthy, whilst those having muddy and discolored waters
have always been found to be healthy.
SANTA CRUZ DE PARINARI.
Latitude, 4 deg. 36' 30" south; longitude 74 deg. 6' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 27' 20" east; thermometer, 78
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 351 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2273 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
PARANARI.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2293 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
VACA MARINA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2334 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
ELVIRA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2352 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
SAN PEDRO.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2393 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per
hour.
FONTEVERA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2408 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
MOUTH OF THE HUALLAGA RIVER.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2430 miles; current in Amazon, 3-1/4 miles
per hour. One hundred and twenty-three miles up the Huallaga is the
town of Yurimaguas, a centre of trade, to which steamers from Para
frequently ascend.
CEDRO ISLA.
Distant from the Atlantic 2445 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
MOUTH OF THE PASTAGA RIVER.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2514 miles; current in the Amazon, 3-1/4
miles per hour. The Pastaga has a rapid current and is full of
obstructions to navigation; it is with much difficulty that canoes
even can be forced up the river for any distance. On its head waters
the Indians wash a considerable quantity of gold from the sand of the
bed of the channel.
BARRANCA.
Latitude, 4 deg. 59' 53" south; longitude, 76 deg. 38' 38" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 46' 26" east; thermometer, 78
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 453 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2545 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour. Barranca is situated on a
red clay bluff, about seventy feet high, on the north or left bank of
the river, which is here narrow. Communication is kept up between
Barranca and Moyabamba by way of the Aypena river to its head and
thence by land. Barranca has been used as, but is not well adapted to
be, a military post; gunboats could lay out of sight below, around a
bend of the river, and shell it without being themselves exposed to
its fire.
MOUTH OF THE POTRO RIVER.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2564 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
The Potro is navigable for small steamers a distance of sixty miles
from its mouth, and is of importance as a link in the projected route
from Chachapoyas to Limon on the Amazon.
MOUTH OF THE MORONA RIVER.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2576 miles; current, 3-1/2 miles per hour.
Steamers ascend the Morona 300 miles, and at some stages of the water
a greater distance.
LIMON.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2588 miles; current, 3-3/4 miles per hour.
Limon is the terminus of a projected route from Chachapoyas to the
Amazon; it is a place of no importance whatever in any other respect.
PUNTA ACHUAL.
Latitude, 4 deg. 15' 27" south; longitude 77 deg. 1' 28" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 18' 18" east; thermometer, 80
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 509 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2612 miles; current, 3-3/4 miles per hour. Two miles above Punta
Achual, at the Vuelta Calentura, or Calentura passage, the first
serious difficulty is encountered in navigating the Upper Amazon; the
difficulty there encountered is a strong current combined with a
whirlpool in the channel of the river, but, with full heads of steam
on, steamers are able to pass the vuelta and proceed on to Borja. At
Vuelta Calentura the course of the river is from N.N.W. to S.S.E.
BORJA.
Latitude, 4 deg. 31' 37" south; longitude, 77 deg. 29' 43" west of
Greenwich; thermometer, 76 deg.; elevation above sea-level, 516 feet;
distance from the Atlantic, 2660 miles; current, 3-3/4 miles per hour.
At Borja the navigation of the Upper Amazon ends; the river in its
whole course from Laracocha to Borja, a distance of 500 miles, is a
mountain torrent, impracticable for navigation even by canoes. The
length of the Amazon, from its source at Laracocha to the Atlantic
ocean, is 3160 miles, but the distance from the Atlantic to the source
of the Ucayali is still greater. It usually takes a steamer 69
steaming hours to ascend the river from Iquitos to Borja, and 35
steaming hours to descend from Borja to Iquitos.
DISTANCES.
In the following list of distances between places on the Amazon, from
its mouth to its source in Lake Laracocha, the distances for the Lower
Amazon are taken from the best Brazilian authorities that could be
consulted; the distances for the Upper Amazon, from the Brazilian
frontier to the head of steamer navigation at Borja, were measured by
the Peruvian Hydrographical Commission of the Amazon; and the
distance from Borja, the head of navigation, to the source of the
river in Lake Laracocha, is given as estimated by the best Peruvian
authorities.
LIST OF DISTANCES ON THE AMAZON.
Lower
Amazon.
Miles.
Atlantic ocean to Para 75
Para to Breves 146
Breves to Garupa 123
Garupa to Porto de Moz 48
Porto de Moz to Prainha 96
Prainha to Monte Alegre 44
Monte Alegre to Santarem 60
Santarem to Obidos 68
Obidos to Villa Bella 95
Villa Bella to Serpa 137
Serpa to Manaos 110
From the Atlantic to Manaos, 1002 miles.
Manaos to Cudajos 155
Cudajos to Coary 84
Coary to Tefe (Ega) 107
Tefe (Ega) to Fonte Boa 133
Fonte Boa to Tonantius 140
Tonantius to San Paulo 95
San Paulo, mouth of the Yavari river 90
The mouth of the Yavari marks the boundary line
between Peru and Brazil on the south side of the
Amazon.
Mouth of the Yavari to Tabatinga 14
Brazilian frontier port on the north side of the
Amazon. From the Atlantic to Tabatinga,
1825 miles.
Tabatinga to Letitia 3
Peruvian frontier post.
Upper
Amazon.
Miles.
Letitia to Loreto 37
Loreto to Pebas 144
Pebas to Iquitos 117
Iquitos to Tamshiyacu 20
Tamshiyacu to mouth of the Ucayali river 43
Mouth of the Ucayali river to Nauta 6
Nauta to San Regis 50
San Regis to Santa Cruz de Parinari 28
Santa Cruz de Parinari to Parinari 20
Parinari to Vaca Marina 41
Vaca Marina to Elvira 18
Elvira to San Pedro 41
San Pedro to Fontevera 15
Fontevera to mouth of the Huallaga river 22
Mouth of the Huallaga river to Cedro Isla 15
Cedro Isla to mouth of the Pastaza river 69
Mouth of the Pastaza river to Barranca 31
Barranca to Mouth of the Potro river 19
Mouth of the Potro river to mouth of the Morona river 12
Mouth of the Morona river to Limon 12
Limon to Punta Achual 24
Punta Achual to Borja 48
From the Atlantic to Borja, the head of navigation,
2660 miles.
Borja to Lake Laracocha 500
Source of the Amazon.
Length of the Amazon river from its source to its
mouth, 3160 miles.
HUALLAGA RIVER.
The Huallaga has its source in Lake Chiquicoba, flows by the important
central city of Huanaco, and thence in a direction nearly north, for
450 miles, until its confluence with the Amazon. The mouth of the
Huallaga is 2430 miles distant from the Atlantic, and its current is
about 3 miles per hour. Eighteen feet of water can usually be carried
up to Yurimaguas, and steamers ascend 40 miles higher to a place
called Rumicallarina; above Rumicallarina the river is navigable for a
great distance by canoes. About 8 miles below Yurimaguas the river is
divided by an island, on each side of which there are sand-bars that
steamers drawing more than 11 feet of water are sometimes unable to
pass during the months of June, July and August.
LAGUNA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2447 miles; current, 3 miles per hour.
SANTA LUCIA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2473 miles; current, 3 miles per hour.
SANTA MARIA.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2528 miles; current, 3 miles per hour.
YURIMAGUAS.
Latitude, 5 deg. 5' 55" south; longitude, 75 deg. 59' 58" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 47' east; thermometer, 77 deg.;
elevation above sea-level, 440 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2554
miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per hour.
The advantage which Yurimaguas possesses over all the other river
ports on the Upper Amazon is that of its being the point where
travelers from Lima and articles of export from Moyubamba, a city of
10,000 inhabitants, meet the steamers from Para. Canoes ascend the
Huallaga from Yurimaguas to Chasuta in eight days and make the return
trip in three; from Chasuta there is a mule road to Moyubamba,
Chachapoyas and Cajamarca, and from the latter place a railway runs to
Lima. This is the best route from the Amazon to the Pacific coast, and
the only one which does not involve long marches on foot. Steamers
drawing five or six feet of water could make regular trips to Chasuta
at any season of the year, even at lowest water, and meeting larger
steamers at Yurimaguas would establish better communication with the
rich country of the interior. On the Huallaga, above Yurimaguas and a
little back from the river, are to be found the best locations for
colonies. Thirty miles above Yurimaguas, on the right bank of the
river, is situated Shucushiyacu, a place well known as commanding a
fine view of mountain and river scenery.
CAINARACHI.
Distance from the Atlantic, 2592 miles; current, 3-1/4 miles per
hour.
RUMICALLARINA.
Latitude, 5 deg. 58' 32" south; longitude, 75 deg. 47' 32" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 8' 10" east; thermometer, 77
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 486 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2600 miles; current, 3-1/2 miles per hour; depth of water, 36 feet;
width of river, 200 yards.
Rumicallarina is at the head of navigation for steamers on the
Huallaga. Any steamer which can ascend the river to Yurimaguas can
continue on to Rumicallarina, beyond which place only five or six
feet, at the season of low water, can be carried to Chasuta.
LIST OF DISTANCES ON THE HUALLAGA.
Atlantic ocean to mouth of the Huallaga, 2430 miles By the Amazon
river.
Huallaga
River.
Miles.
Mouth of the Huallaga to Laguna 17
Laguna to Santa Lucia 26
Santa Lucia to Santa Maria 55
Santa Maria to Yurimaguas 26
Yurimaguas to Cainarachi 38
Cainarachi to Rumicallarina 8
Rumicallarina to Chasuta 50
Chasuta to Lake Chiquicoba 300
---
Length of the Huallaga river 520
Distance from the source of the Huallaga to the
mouth of the Amazon 2950
UCAYALI RIVER.
The Ucayali river has its origin in the Andean region, about Lake
Titicaca, and flows, under various names, in a direction nearly north
until it mingles its waters with those of the Amazon, to which river
it bears the same relation that the Missouri does to the Mississippi;
that is to say, like the Missouri, its length and volume of water
entitles it to be considered a continuation and not a tributary of the
main river. During the season of low water 24 feet can be carried from
Nauta, at the mouth of the river, to Sarayacu; 18 feet from Sarayacu
to the mouth of the Pachitea river; and 12 feet from the mouth of the
Pachitea to the confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba. The average
current from the mouth of the river to Pucacura is 2 miles per hour,
and from Pucacura to the confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba 3 miles
per hour. The Tambo is probably navigable for steamers drawing eight
or ten feet of water to the confluence of the Ene and Perene, and
thence the Perene would afford communication, at least by canoes, to
San Ramon, a Peruvian military post; from San Ramon to Tarma, and from
Tarma to Lima, would, of course, be the continuation of the route to
the Pacific slope. The first step towards the opening of this most
desirable of all the routes between the Pacific coast and the Amazon
would be the establishment of a battalion post at the confluence of
the Ene and Perene, communicating at regular and stated intervals with
San Ramon. The distance between the two posts would be about 60 miles
of canoe navigation, and would soon become a traveled route forming
the connecting link between eastern and western Peru.
MOUTH OF THE UCAYALI.
Latitude, 4 deg. 28' 30" south; longitude, 73 deg. 21' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 2' east; thermometer, 80 deg.;
elevation above sea-level, 318 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2180
miles; current, 2 miles per hour; the width of the Ucayali at its
mouth is half a mile.
PUCACURA.
Latitude, 6 deg. 4' 45" south; longitude, 75 deg. 1' west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 22' 10" east; thermometer, 79
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 377 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2482 miles; current, 3 miles per hour.
SARAYOCU.
Latitude, 6 deg. 35' 15" south; longitude, 74 deg. 58' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 52' 8" east; thermometer, 79
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 410 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2578 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; depth of water, 20 feet.
The town of Sarayacu is situated on a small creek, about three miles
from the place on the river which is called the Puerto del Sarayacu.
Between Pucacura and Sarayacu is Esquina, a small settlement built on
high land, which extends along the river for a mile or more. This
place (Esquina) and Pucacura are about the only places on the banks
of the Ucayali, below Sarayacu, that are not overflowed at high water.
The floods of the Ucayali, which regularly recur every year at certain
seasons, render the banks of the river an undesirable, perhaps even an
impracticable, location for an agricultural population. It is possible
that a crop might be raised and gathered during the dry season, but
the farms would have to be abandoned whenever the river rose to its
maximum height. At Paca, about twelve miles above Sarayacu, the banks
on both sides of the river are high; such places are much more
frequently met with above than below Sarayacu, but still they are the
exception to the general character of the country near the river,
which continues to be low and subject to overflow until the highlands
are reached near the confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba.
PACAMASHI.
Latitude, 7 deg. 53' 15" south; longitude, 74 deg. 40' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 51' 38" east; thermometer, 77
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 435 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2733 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; width of the river, 600 yards.
YARINACOCHA.
Latitude, 8 deg. 15' south; longitude, 74 deg. 31' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 38' 30" east; thermometer, 79
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 447 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2800 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; width of river, 1200 yards.
MOUTH OF THE PACHITEA RIVER.
Latitude, 8 deg. 43' 30" south; longitude, 74 deg. 32' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 45' 40" east; thermometer, 75
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 508 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2891 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; width of the river, 600 yards.
VUELTA DEL DIABLO.
Distance from the Atlantic, 3091 miles. This strait is the first
serious difficulty encountered in ascending the Ucayali; the current
dashes with much violence against the trunks of large trees which
lodge in, and almost block up, the passage.
CONFLUENCE OF THE TAMBO AND URABAMBA RIVERS.
Latitude, 10 deg. 41' south; longitude, 73 deg. 41' west of Greenwich;
elevation above sea-level, 661 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 3142
miles; depth of water, 12 feet.
ESPERANZA.
Esperanza is situated on the Perene river about 11 miles above the
junction of the Ene and Perene, which form the Tambo. The navigation
for steamers drawing 10 feet of water terminates at the junction of
the Perene and Ene. From thence to Fort San Ramon, a distance of sixty
miles, canoes could navigate, but with some difficulty, owing to the
swiftness of the current, which at San Ramon runs at the rate of 6
miles per hour. Small stern-wheel, flat-bottomed steamers, such as are
in use on the swift, narrow and shallow rivers west of the
Mississippi, could probably be employed with success in establishing
communication between Fort San Ramon and the Ucayali.
LIST OF DISTANCES ON THE UCAYALI RIVER.
Ucayali
River.
Miles.
Atlantic ocean to mouth of the Ucayali 2189
(Amazon River.)
Mouth of the Ucayali to Pucacura 293
Pucacura to Sarayacu 96
Sarayacu to Pacamashi 155
Pacamashi to Yarinacocha 67
Yarinacocha to mouth of the Pachitea river 91
Mouth of the Pachitea to Vuelta del Diablo 200
Vuelta del Diablo to confluence of the Tambo
and Urubamba 51
Confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba to the
Ucayali, source of the Urubamba river, a
continuation of the Ucayali 375
Ucayali river, from its source to the Atlantic 3517
Distance from the Atlantic to the head of
steamer navigation on the Ucayali 3142
PACHITEA RIVER.
The banks of the Ucayali and Pachitea, at their confluence, are low,
subject to overflow and unsuitable for settlement. About nine miles
above its mouth we come to the first Indian village on the Pachitea, a
male Conebo hamlet, with nothing to recommend it except that it is
situated on ground a little higher than the flats which surround it.
On the left bank of the Ucayali a few miles below the mouth of the
Pachitea, there is a place called Hoje, which is not subject to
overflow at high water, but in other respects it is not an eligible
position for a town or post. The Pachitea is navigable at low water
for steamers drawing nine feet of water to the confluence of the
Palcazu and Pichis rivers.
MOUTH OF THE PACHITEA.
Latitude, 8 deg. 43' 30" south; longitude, 74 deg. 32' 30" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 45' 40" east; thermometer, 75
deg.; elevation above sea-level, 508 feet; distance from the Atlantic,
2891 miles; current, 3 miles per hour; width of the Pachitea at its
mouth, 400 yards.
CUNUYACU.
Latitude, 9 deg. 5' 52" south; longitude, 74 deg. 48' 15" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 59' 26" east; elevation above
sea-level, 557 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 2951 miles; current,
2-1/2 miles per hour; width of the river, 400 yards.
Cunuyacu means hot water, and is descriptive of the place, for there
are here several thermal springs welling up from the sand beach. At
Chunta Isla, between the mouth of the Pachitea and Cunuyacu, the
Cashibo Indians frequently attack from ambush strangers who are
ascending the river.
INCA ROCA.
Latitude, 9 deg. 9' 4" south; longitude, 74 deg. 55' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 6' 26" east; distance from the
Atlantic, 2963 miles; current, 2-1/2 miles per hour.
Inca Roca is a rocky beach overhung by sandstone cliffs sixty-five
feet high; on the face of the cliffs are carved numerous figures,
amongst them the figure of the sun and of the Llama are conspicuous,
hence the place was named Inca Roca.
CONFLUENCE OF THE PALCAZU AND PICHIS RIVERS.
Latitude, 9 deg. 54' 9" south; longitude, 74 deg. 58' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 34' 4" east; elevation above
sea-level, 518 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 3082 miles; current,
2-3/4 miles per hour.
At the junction of the Palcazu and Pichis, the two rivers forming the
Pachitea, there is high land suitable for a town or post.
LIST OF DISTANCES ON THE PACHITEA RIVER.
Miles.
Mouth of the Pachitea to Cunuyacu 60
Cunuyacu to Inca Roca 12
Inca Roca to confluence of the Pichis and Palacazu 119
From the confluence of the Pichis and Palacazu,
forming the Pachitea river, to the Atlantic 3082
PALACAZU RIVER.
The Palacazu is a somewhat narrow stream, with a current of 3-1/4
miles per hour and a depth which at low water will permit a steamer
drawing seven feet of water to ascend to Puerto del Mairo.
PUERTO DEL MAIRO.
Latitude, 9 deg. 55' 22" south; longitude, 75 deg. 17' 45" west of
Greenwich; thermometer, 75 deg.; elevation above sea-level, 795 feet;
distance from the Atlantic, 3119 miles; current, 3-1/2 miles per hour.
Puerto del Mairo is 45 miles distant from the large city of Huanaco,
which has constant communication and trade with Lima. At present the
route between Huanaco and Puerto del Mairo is only a footpath through
the forest, but it is probable that a good road for pack-mules could
be constructed at little expense, and that a railway is not
impracticable.
PICHIS RIVER.
The Pichis is a branch of the Pachitea river. The Cashibos and Campas
Indians inhabiting its banks are warlike tribes and fiercely oppose
all attempts to examine their country. Nothing was known of the river,
above its mouth, until it was explored and surveyed, in 1873, by the
Peruvian Hydrographical Commission of the Amazon, accompanied by a
military escort. It was necessary for the Commission to bestow names
on notable places as they proceeded to discover them, and these names
were afterwards used in making the chart of the river.
MOUTH OF THE PICHIS.
Latitude, 9 deg. 54' 9" south; longitude, 74 deg. 58' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 34' 4" east; elevation above
sea-level, 618 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 3082 miles; current,
2-1/2 miles per hour.
ROCHELLE ISLA.
Latitude, 9 deg. 57' 11" south; longitude, 75 deg. 2' west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 8 deg. 35' 36" east; elevation above
the sea-level, 630 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 3100 miles;
current, 2-1/2 miles per hour.
Up to Rochelle Isla, named after the senior member of the Peruvian
Hydrographical Commission, navigation is clear and unobstructed for
any steamer that can ascend the Pachitea; that is, for any steamer not
drawing more than nine feet of water. Beyond this island the
navigation of the river becomes much more difficult, though not
altogether impracticable. The River Trinidad, so named on account of
its having been discovered on Trinity Sunday, empties itself into the
Pichis ten miles above Rochelle Isla; it is a fine, large river,
flowing from the eastward, with deep water and a current of 3 miles
per hour at its mouth.
TEMPESTAD PLAYA.
Latitude, 10 deg. 5' 6" south; longitude, 74 deg. 55' 45" west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 46' east; distance from the
Atlantic, 3123 miles. Tempestad Playa received its name in consequence
of a violent tempest which was there encountered by the namers.
MOUTH OF THE HERRERAYACU RIVER.
Latitude, 10 deg. 20' 3" south; longitude, 74 deg. 54' west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 7 deg. 59' 26" east; distance from the
Atlantic, 3156 miles.
The Herrerayacu river was named after the major who commanded the
escort of soldiers accompanying the Hydrographical Commission; it has
a current of 3-1/2 miles per hour, and is navigable for canoes a
distance of four or five miles, up to Terminacion Playa in latitude 10
deg. 22' 33" south; longitude, 74 deg. 54' west of Greenwich. Mountain
ranges are plainly in sight from Terminacion Playa, which is 3160
miles distant from the Atlantic.
PUERTO TUCKER.
Latitude, 10 deg. 22' 55" south; longitude, 74 deg. 49' west of
Greenwich; magnetic variation, 9 deg. 7' 30" east; elevation above
sea-level, 700 feet; distance from the Atlantic, 3167 miles; current,
3-1/2 miles per hour.
Puerto Tucker was named after the President of the Hydrographical
Commission. It is at the head of canoe navigation, not far from the
source, of the Pichis river; from it a range of lofty mountains,
distant some twenty or thirty miles, bears from S. to S.W. This range
must be the eastern Cordillera of Peru.
LIST OF DISTANCES ON THE PICHIS RIVER.
Miles.
Mouth of the Pichis to the Atlantic ocean 3082
Mouth of the Pichis to Rochelle Isla 18
Rochelle Isla to mouth of Trinidad river 10
Mouth of Trinidad river to Tempestad Playa 13
Tempestad Playa to mouth of the Herrerayacu 33
Mouth of the Herrerayacu to Puerto Tucker 11
Puerto Tucker to Atlantic ocean 3167
[Footnote 2: The latitudes, longitudes and other data given in these
notes are taken from the journal of the Peruvian Hydrographical
Commission of the Amazon. Some of them have been published, by
permission, in the third edition of Professor Orton's "Andes and the
Amazon."]
CONCLUSION.
The Upper Amazon river is destined to become much better known than it
is at present; it cannot be long before commerce takes possession of
such an inviting field. Ocean steamers run regularly to Manaos, a
thousand miles from the mouth of the river, and they might extend
their voyage, certainly during nine months in the year, to Nauta at
the mouth of the Ucayali; from Nauta smaller steamers could ascend the
Amazon to Borja, the Huallaga to Yurimaguas, and the Ucayali to the
confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba. A road is projected from Limon,
near Borja, to Chachapoyas, where it would connect with the route to
Lima. From Yurimaguas to Mayubamba, and thence on to Lima, there is
already established a much traveled route. From Esperanza, near the
confluence of the Tambo and Urubamba; it is probable that
flat-bottomed, stern-wheel steamers, such as are used on the Nicaragua
route across Central America, could ascend the Tambo to Fort San
Ramon, a place which it is to be hoped will be connected by railway
with Tarma and Lima. When this latter route is opened, as it is
destined to be sooner or later, it will become the great artery of
communication between the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of South
America.
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