“Why should we be incapable or inefficient?” asked my aunt, “and why

should the seclusion of Turkish women in past generations influence or

interfere with the organizing, administrative or productive capacities

of the Turkish women of this generation? After all women do not

belong to a different race than men, we are the daughters of men and

inherit their qualities--or their faults--their capacities or their

inefficiency, just as much as their sons do. This present generation,

without distinction of sex, has inherited the accumulated qualities or

faults of all past generations. It is not the sex which makes or mars

the individual, which makes or mars his or her talents. Individual

talents, qualities or faults are of course inherited to a great degree,

but they don't descend exclusively from women to women and from men

to men. Furthermore they are especially enhanced by the education,

upbringing and training of the individual and I consider that the

Turkish women of this generation have had individually a better

opportunity than their brothers--or even than their western sisters--to

prepare, educate and train themselves for the work they are now doing.

The Turkish men of this generation have had to struggle for life as

soon as they were out of boyhood and, confronted by the necessity of

earning their immediate living, they did not have the opportunity of

preparing themselves for the lines of activity best suited to their

individual talents--or else and still worse, they have been drafted

into the armies and have fought consecutively for the last fifteen

years. Thousands have perished in these wars, thousands and thousands

have been maimed or otherwise incapacitated for life. As for western

women, those of the higher classes--therefore those who have received

a better education--are caught in a whirlwind of social amusement as

soon as they are little more than children and the greatest majority

keep throughout their lives the earmark of the influence that society

has impressed on them in their early youth. It is therefore only

western women who start life with the handicap of a lesser education

who, through hard work and perseverance, are generally the women who

accomplish things in the Western world. This is not the case with the

Turkish women of this generation. They have had an opportunity to study

and prepare thoroughly until they had reached maturity. They had no

social life to interfere with their studies. It is true that they did

not prepare to enter personally the different fields of activity as

they did not expect that their full emancipation would come so soon.

But they were conscious of being the mothers of the coming generation,

and to prepare their sons and daughters for their task, they equipped

themselves with all the knowledge they desired to impart and they had

plenty of leisure to do this. That is why you see now so many Turkish

women efficient in the activities they have deliberately shouldered.”

“Tell me, my aunt, how did the participation of Turkish women in all

activities of life come to pass? Was it sudden or gradual?”

“When the war came and all the men were called to the front, women

unostentatiously stepped into the employments left vacant. As is

generally the case in all movements of emancipation for which people

are really ready the movement started in the lower classes. Pushed by

necessity, some young girls dared to apply for clerical employments in

shops and offices. At the time hundreds of ladies of the higher classes

were engaged in helping at home the Red Crescent and other relief

works. They had studied nursing. Encouraged by the fact that their less

fortunate sisters had met with no opposition and were working openly in

shops and offices, they in turn offered their services as nurses. Much

of the field work and hospital work of the Red Crescent was confided to

them to liberate men for military service. This is just what happened

in other countries. But the change was greater and more permanent in

Turkey. The daily contact of Turkish women with the public during

the war years resulted of course in tearing down the social walls

which had so far secluded them and once these walls were destroyed no

one desired to build them up again. Turkish women had proved their

administrative and organizing capacities in relief and charitable work

during the war. There was no reason why they should not continue to

give the country the benefit of their services even after the general

war was ended. Furthermore there was still much relief and charitable

work to be done and Turkey needed good administrators and organisers

in many fields. So within a few years, but with gradual steps, the

emancipation of Turkish women became complete, and to-day it is so

thorough that any woman in Turkey can fill any responsible position as

long as she has shown herself capable of it. In Anatolia, we have a

woman, Halidé Hanoum, who was elected Minister of Public Education by

the National Assembly.”

I wanted to know how Anatolia and the rural districts had reacted to

this emancipation of women.

“The peasant women were always more emancipated than the city women,

my son. Our peasants have remained in a way much nearer to the

original precepts of our religion and to the old traditions of the

Turks than our city dwellers. We have deviated from our religion and

racial traditions by the contact we were forced to enter into with

the degenerate Levantine elements dwelling in the cities. Muslim

laws placed women on equality with men long before western laws did

so, and at the time of the Prophet women were allowed more freedom

than they ever had before. The Koran is full of mentions of women who

were participating in public life and the only restriction placed on

women in the Holy Book--a restriction which was necessary to correct

the customs of the Arabs living in warm climates--is that women should

not appear in public unless they were covered from the breasts down

to the ankles. This is a simple rule of decency and modesty. As for

the original Turkish customs they used to be so liberal that women

participated in public affairs among the nomad Turkish tribes roaming

on the plateau of Pamir, centuries ago. Many a Turkish woman was then

the recognized chieftain of her tribe. Many a Turkish Joan of Arc has

fought on the battlefields shoulder to shoulder with her warriors.

It is only after the Muslims and the Turks came in contact with the

decadent Byzantine Empire, it is only after the Turks conquered the

dissolute colonies of old Rome and ancient Greece in Asia Minor that

the Turks--especially those who settled in the cities--adopted certain

customs of the conquered races. Unfortunately these customs are

identified to-day, in the eyes of the foreigners, with the Turks and

the Muslims as if they had originated with them. But that is not the

case. While polygamy was not strictly forbidden so as to prevent--as

was then the case in Europe--the increase of bastards and illegitimate

children, Harems in the original sense of the word did not exist in

Muslim or Turkish countries until they assimilated byzantine customs.

The seclusion of women in separate apartments where they were condemned

to lead the life of recluses pampered and spoiled solely for the

pleasure of their master, can be retraced to the “Gyneceum” of Byzance.

So can the custom of veiling the women when they went out, as evidenced

by the pictures on old Grecian vases. The barbarous institution

of Eunuchs is exclusively Byzantine. All these were certainly not

originally Turkish customs and they have nearly never been practised by

the peasants and country people of Turkey, except the custom which made

it obligatory for women to be entirely veiled in the presence of men.

Otherwise the rural population never restricted its women in any way.

They always participated in the every-day life of their men. You should

have been with us when I went to Eski-Shehir, in Anatolia, with your

uncle during the war.” Here my aunt drew such a picture of her arrival

at Eski-Shehir that I will try to give an account of it, in her own

words.

“It was before your uncle was taken ill,” she said, “and he was

considering starting some local industries in Anatolia. He chose

Eski-Shehir on account of the railroad facilities it offers and we

went there. Only a few men who had been prevented from going to war

on account of old age or infirmity were left in the country. But the

people who had heard that a pasha from Constantinople was coming with

his wife, sent a delegation to meet us at the station. They insisted on

our being their guests and they informed us that they had especially

prepared a house for us. To refuse would have hurt their feelings.

They had chosen the best available house in the whole neighbourhood.

It was located far in the country at an hour and a half's ride in a

carriage from the station. We arrived in the evening and by the time

the customary greetings had been exchanged with the delegation it was

already dark. The whole delegation insisted on forming an escort of

honour and accompanying us to our lodgings. We took a carriage and

the ten or twelve peasants which formed the delegation got on their

horses, two preceding us, the rest forming a semi-circle around our

carriage. In the dark night we went through valleys and hilltops

escorted by this most picturesque cavalcade; mostly old men with white

beards, but sitting straight on their horses. Of the only two young

men who were there, one was blind in one eye, and the other was lame.

They all wore their country costumes: trousers cut as riding breeches

but worn without leggings, wide belts of gay colour wrapped from hips

to the middle of the breast and tight-fitting tunics crossed by

cartridge-bearing leather thongs. With their turbaned heads and their

rifles swinging from their shoulders they made a martial picture in

contrast with their courteous demeanour, their subdued voices and their

most peaceful eyes. I must say, however, that it was a reassuring

escort to have for crossing the country at night.

“We arrived at the house, a darling little farmhouse of one floor in

the midst of tall trees which reflected their spectral shadows in the

gurgling black waters of a stream. Our escort dismounted and entered

the house with us where we were received by a committee of women. They

had prepared supper and had made everything ready for us. They were

dressed in long, flowing robes, their heads covered with a veil and

they stood respectfully with their hands folded, watching us carefully

so as to anticipate our smallest wishes. Dear, pure, honest country

folk of Anatolia! How much they can teach us, how much they can

teach the western world of hospitality, modesty and faithfulness! The

women were veiled in the presence of men, but they acted their part

as hostesses while the men talked in the same room with my husband.

After having settled us to their own satisfaction they departed all

together, even the owners of the house insisting on leaving so that we

might be more comfortable. They left us their servants to take care of

us. Next day and all the days of our stay at Eski-Shehir, groups of

peasant girls would come to visit me, to enquire if I needed anything

and to entertain me as best they could. They would shyly stand at the

door until I forced them to come in. I had all the trouble in the world

to break them of the habit of sitting on the floor out of respect to

their guests, as they considered it ill-bred to sit on a level with me.

They would come in the evenings, for during the day they would be busy

working in their fields. Healthy and strong women they were, with red

cheeks and bashful eyes. They were not the type of women living for the

pleasure of their husbands, or of slaves toiling for their masters.

They were wholesome women, good daughters, good wives, good mothers who

had for generations been conscious of their duty to the community and

accomplished it efficiently--helpmates freely helping their men, freely

assisting them or willingly shouldering their husbands' responsibility

in case of absence and taking care of the welfare of their families,

their homes, their fields or their villages and withal keeping their

unassuming modesty intact--the modesty which is, or should be, the

national characteristic of all Turkish women.”

My aunt was silent for a while. Her compelling personality made us

fully share her love for her Anatolian sisters. She slowly got up and

gave the signal for returning home. We walked together. It was our last

day in Erenkeuy and I had not yet exhausted her views on the subject

of the emancipation of Turkish women. I now asked her if she thought

that its influence had been salutory upon general morality in the big

cities.

“It certainly has,” answered my aunt. “In the old days we did not

know the friends of our husbands, brothers or sons. We were excluded

from the company of men and could not therefore help our own sons in

selecting their friends. Much less of course our husbands. We always

feared the deteriorating influence that even one bad associate can

have on a whole crowd. The Turkish proverb says that one bad apple is

sufficient to rot a whole basket full of good apples. Men left to their

own resources are liable to seek distraction in drinking, in cards and

other unwholesome pastimes. Many a Turkish man has suffered in the past

the consequences of the exclusion of women from social gatherings--just

as many a western man suffers now from the consequences of leading

too absorbing a club life. But now that we participate in social

reunions as well as in other activities we can more fully make our

influence felt among the men. Our continuous contact with their friends

has rendered our husbands, brothers and sons more careful about the

character of the men they associate with. Now that you are married you

would not ask to your house a man about whose character you might have

some doubts. But if your wife was not with you, you might not be so

strict about the manners and the behaviour of those you associate with.

“Of course we Turkish women of this generation have a double duty to

perform now that we have acquired our freedom. We must first see that

this freedom is not turned into license as in some western countries,

where young men and young girls are allowed to go out alone in couples,

or--still worse--where husbands and wives cultivate different sets

of friends. We must also watch very carefully over our modesty,

and this is our most difficult task. Many Turkish women are taking

advantage of their new freedom to trample all modesty under their

feet. Alas! too many are already “over-westernized” and associate too

freely with foreigners or with Levantinized Turks in the salons of

Pera. Not that I object to the society of foreign men, but how are

we to know the character and the antecedents of all those foreigners

who are at present in Constantinople? They are mostly officers in a

faraway vanquished country or civilians desirous of staking their

all in get-rich-quick business ventures. How are we to know of their

education, their morals and their principles? We are therefore obliged

to be especially careful with foreign men. Our duty now is to raise

the new generation of girls as rationally as the well-educated western

girls. We want our girls to preserve their modesty, no matter how free

they are, we want them to know how to take good care of themselves,

no matter whom they associate with. We don't want them to abuse their

freedom. We want them to be as rational and thoughtful as my little

American daughter here.”

And so saying my aunt lovingly passed her arm on my wife's shoulders,

in a graceful movement of all-embracing protection. They looked at

each other with comprehending love. The girl of New Orleans smiled her

grateful appreciation in the eyes of the woman of Turkey.

V

LIFE ON THE BOSPHORUS

It was with real regrets that we left Erenkeuy.

A visit in such a congenial atmosphere ends always too soon even if

it has extended over two weeks. But I wanted my wife to know our

cousins who lived on the Bosphorus, to whom we had already announced

our coming, and I wanted her to come in close touch with the different

aspects of home life in Turkey, to see the Turks from different

angles. So we had to tear ourselves from Erenkeuy, after exchanging

repeated promises of seeing each other soon and often in town, promises

which--needless to say--were kept faithfully on both sides.

In the strict sense of the word our cousins are not really cousins

of ours and would not even count as relations in western countries.

However, as I said before, family bonds are so strong in Turkey, the

clan spirit is so developed, that we call cousins even the nephews of

our aunts by marriage. We consider them as such and we are brought up

to feel toward them as such.

Our cousins live on the European side of the Bosphorus, at Emirghian,

about half-way between the Sea of Marmora and the Black Sea, in one of

those old houses built right on the edge of the water. Theirs is one of

the few remaining typically Turkish country houses on the Bosphorus,

most of the others have either been destroyed by fire, fallen in

ruins, or else been replaced by modern structures--villas, apartment

houses, warehouses and depots which have, alas, contaminated with their

ultra-modern and commercial appearance the otherwise smilingly passive

shores of the Bosphorus. Thus this waterway, unique in the world,

this natural canal between two seas, which winds its way in graceful

curves between the green hills of two continents, offers now the sad

spectacle of charred ruins--where a few tumbling walls blackened by

fire are all that is left of the beautiful estates which adorned it but

a few years ago--with here and there a few pretentious buildings whose

showy architecture is a patent proof of the rapidity with which their

owners have accumulated wealth during the war and post-war profiteering

period. Worst of all, the lower Bosphorus is now bristling with quite a

few high apartment houses peopled with chattering and noisy Levantines.

Such apartment houses, with their tenants, are as out of place on the

wonderful shores of this peerless waterway as the corrugated roofs and

asbestos walls of the coal depots and general merchandising warehouses,

hastily erected in recent years under the guidance of interested--if

inartistic--foreign business men.

All the way to Emirghian I gave thanks to the Almighty for having

protected at least a few imperial palaces and a few old estates which

could still give an idea of what the Bosphorus looked like before the

war. A few, low, rambling buildings of one or, at the most, two floors,

growing lengthwise instead of upward, without a thought of economizing

the land, surrounded with parks where grow old trees, are happily still

left as a living proof of past splendour and good taste, and complete

disregard of business advantages.

Our cousin's house is one of them, possibly a little more dilapidated,

a little less comfortable than most of the other surviving buildings,

as it has been for a very long time deprived of the yearly repairs that

so large a house always needs. But what do we care: within the walls of

its almost limitless entrance hall, on the wide steps of its gorgeously

curved classical stairways, behind the latticed windows of its immense

rooms, the hospitality we find is as sincere and as great as the one

extended generations ago by one of the most brilliant Grand Vezirs of

Turkey, who was then the head of the family, at a time when to be the

Grand Vezir of Turkey really meant all the splendour that the world

suggests.

Our hostess is a widow who speaks French so fluently that she would

be taken for a French woman if she did not have the graceful poise

and dignity so typical of Turkish women. Her husband filled a

most important position in the Imperial palace in the time of the

late Sultan, and was one of the most accomplished men I have ever

met anywhere. Besides being a distinguished diplomat he was an art

connoisseur and had accumulated a priceless collection of antique

pictures, porcelains, carpets and books. Alas, this collection was

destroyed a few years ago when their town house fell the victim of one

of those all-destroying fires characteristic of Constantinople. Only

a few of the secondary pieces of the collection which were left in

their country house on the Bosphorus can still be seen there and are

an attestation of what the collection used to be. To cap it all, the

collection was insured in pre-war days in Turkish pounds which at that

time had a gold value, and the fire having taken place during the war,

and insurance being paid after the armistice, the family could only

collect Turkish paper pounds. Thus, besides the irreparable moral loss,

they had to suffer a very large material loss by recovering only one

seventh of the value the collection was insured originally for. This is

another example among millions of the terrible losses suffered in the

last years by the Turks for reasons absolutely outside their control.

It is a wonder that, despite all, they keep their composure and their

dignity. Calm before the most unimaginable trials, keeping a firm front

through the worst calamities, never complaining, never discouraged,

never losing faith--truly the Turkish race is the most stoical of all.

Our young host, the only son of the family, is just on a leave from

Germany where he went during the war to finish his studies and where he

has remained since then, having obtained a leading position in one of

the largest electrical engineering enterprises in Germany. His mother

is justly proud of the success of her son and we frankly rejoice with

her that one of us, a pure Turk in all respects, has evidently acquired

such a complete technical knowledge and has shown so much capacity as

to be picked out to fill a responsible position in one of the leading

firms of a country known the world over for the technical ability of

its electrical engineers. We ask Kemal to tell us his experiences in

Germany, but he is too modest to talk of himself. He prefers to tell

us how his firm is organized. He greatly admires the Germans for their

efficiency but is not otherwise very keen about living with them. He

finds the Germans too machine made, too materialistic to suit a Turk.

His one ambition is to perfect himself in his profession and then to

settle in Turkey where he will be able to give to his country the

benefit of the knowledge he will have acquired. He wants to return to

Germany for this purpose, but when we press him to tell us if it is for

this purpose alone he admits that he has another more personal reason:

he is engaged to a young girl in Munich and at the end of his leave his

mother will accompany him to Germany where he will get married. The

poor boy is heartbroken that his father, Ismet Bey, did not live long

enough to meet his wife. Kemal speaks English most perfectly and says

that his future wife does so also. He is therefore looking forward to

having her meet her new cousin, my wife.

The drawing-room in which we were was a spacious room with many doors

and windows. The lattices were up and the windows opened and the

breeze from the Bosphorus is so cool at this season that the great

open fireplace where big logs burned was barely enough to warm the

room. We sat near the windows on a wide divan which skirted about

one-fourth of the walls of the room, and to keep us warmer they had

placed at the corner nearest to us, a big brazero of shining copper,

filled with glowing charcoal. The windows were nearly over the water,

so near in fact that the rustling of the current, which is quite

strong on the Bosphorus, was plainly audible. It gave the impression

of being on a ship: the blue waters ran southward in an endless chain

of racing wavelets and the house seemed to be floating toward the

north. But opposite us the green hills of Asia, with a line of houses

skirting the shores and with big Anatolian mountains towering the

blue-gray horizon reminded us that our seeming flight toward the Black

Sea was only an illusion caused by the incessant rush of the current.

Big “mahons” or Turkish barges which have kept the graceful lines of

the old caiks, passed before our eyes, gliding silently on the blue

wavelets, their Oriental triangular sails swelled in the breeze. A

large Italian cargo boat plowed its way toward some romantic port of

the Black Sea: Costanza, where Roumanian peasant girls will purchase

its cargo of vividly coloured textiles in exchange for oil, so much

needed in Italy, or perhaps Batoum, where a cosmopolitan crowd of

traders will give flour, sugar and other food supplies to the starving

population of Caucasia against non-edible jewels, furs or platinum of

limitless value. Who knows? Perhaps it goes to Odessa or Novorossisk

to try bartering with Tartars and Russians, Mongols and even Chinamen

who now form the motley crowd of Bolshevik Southern Russia. The

Bosphorus is the gate of a whole world--a world fraught with mysterious

possibilities; tempting opportunities of stupendous gains, frightful

danger of very real losses, commercial and political possibilities of

such magnitude that it makes you shudder to think of them. And here

we are at the very gate of this world, a gate patrolled as usual by

England. See that gray destroyer, slim as an arrow, speeding toward its

base, the harbour of Constantinople. It flies the British flag and is

coming back from the Black Sea.

Speaking of the Turks · 第 3 / 15 段