its passage and approval.
Approved October 27, 1883.
* * * * *
On November 12, 1882, the commissioners appointed by the Legislature,
J. D. Swain, John Weisenfels, and William Critchfield, met at Mr.
Schank's store in Asotin and effected a regular organization. Mr.
Weisenfels was chosen chairman, and J. E. Bushel was appointed clerk.
Rather curiously there seems to have been much rivalry among the
citizens of the town to provide an official meeting place and it seems
to have been rather the glory than the pecuniary emoluments which
stirred their desires. Probably the motives behind the contention were
connected with the two rival sites, that of Assotin City above and
Asotin lower down the river. Alexander Sumpter was proprietor of the
former site, and he offered his store, rent free for a year, together
with necessary equipment and furniture. Mr. Schank offered his house
on the Asotin site, rent free fora year. D. B. Pettyjohn offered his
hall on the same terms. S. T. Jones offered to provide fuel gratis.
As the rivals bid against each other they increased their offers. Mr.
Schank added to the rent-free house the proposition of Mr. Pettyjohn to
perform the duties of treasurer for the year for the nominal salary of
$300, but to return the amount to the county. W. H. Wood strengthened
this offer with a similar one to perform the duties of auditor at a
salary of $400, but to refund the same. With these inducements Mr.
Schank's offer gained the day. The rival locations were not far apart
and the town has practically come to include the two.
The first assessment for the new county, made in 1884, was as follows:
Real estate, $137,676; improvements, $40,211; personal, $227,021;
total, $404,908. The acreage under cultivation was given at 5,532, and
the total of deeded land as 42,918. The county census of 1885 showed a
total population of 1,514. In the same year the report of production
showed 300,000 bushels of wheat, 100,000 bushels of barley, and 50 tons
of fruit.
In interesting comparison with those figures of 1885, we may take a
jump ahead at this point to 1917, and give the summary of assessments
as provided for us by the courtesy of E. W. Downen, county assessor:
Value of live stock, $391,618; hay and grain in warehouses and in hands
of producers, $412,095. The total of personal property, $1,245,540.
That represents 50 per cent of the actual value. Real estate
assessment, also 50 per cent of actual value, is this: Total number of
acres assessed, 238,339.33; number of acres of orchard land, 4,649.36;
other tillable farm land, 83,059; value of orchard land, $1,667,510;
value of other farm land, $1,172,645; value of city property, $769,965;
total real estate, $3,610,120.
Almost the first question that came before the voters of the county
upon its creation was the determination of the county seat. Asotin
and Theon were the chief contestants, with one vote for Anatone and
two for Assotin City. The promoters of Assotin City announced before
election day that they would not push the candidacy of their location,
preferring to throw their strength to the twin place a mile down
the river. The result of the election was: Asotin, 377; Theon, 106.
Asotin has held the official headship to this day, though surpassed in
population by Clarkston, and in more or less of chronic unrest lest the
metropolis dispossess the older town. An election for a change occurred
in 1916, but resulted in no change. The precincts participating in that
first election, November, 1884, were: Asotin, Cottonwood, Grande Ronde,
Lake and Pleasant.
The next political question of general interest was that of
prohibition. That was a question that would not and could not down,
for the reason that it involved ideas of right and wrong and economic
efficiency on one side, and pecuniary gain or loss on the other. A
local option law, allowing a decision by precincts had been passed by
the Territorial Legislature in 1886, and, as a result, nearly every
precinct in the state had a line-up, the general results being to show
a powerful sentiment in favor of prohibition, but not enough to give
a majority of precincts. The result in Asotin precinct was 69 to 70,
lost by one vote. In Cottonwood precinct it was 77 to 27, very heavily
affirmative. In Grande Ronde it was 12 to 21, lost. In Pleasant it was
15 to 6, more than two to one in favor.
RESULTS OF ELECTIONS
Asotin County, like others of its group, and in fact the entire state,
is normally republican. But to its great credit, be it said, the county
is independent, and the boss has a very uncertain tenure. We have seen
from the act organizing the county that the three commissioners named
were empowered to name the county officers, to serve until the general
election of 1884. In pursuance of their duties the commissioners,
Messrs. Critchfield, Swain, and Weisenfels, at their first formal
meeting on November 14, 1883, appointed the following county officials:
J. L. Vinson, sheriff; H. Wamsley, assessor; S. S. Bennett, probate
judge; Charles Goodwin, superintendent of schools; J. J. Kanawyer,
treasurer; J. O'Keefe, surveyor; A. J. Allen, coroner; S. T. Jones,
sheep commissioner; G. S. Rogers, auditor. By reason of the declination
of Mr. O'Keefe, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Jones, M. S. Kling, J. M. Robison,
and R. Tuttle, were appointed to fill the places of surveyor, coroner
and sheep commissioner respectively.
Much interest was felt in the first general election of 1884, and
the republicans and democrats marshalled their respective hosts in
the usual convention formation. It was in that election that the
territorial law providing for woman suffrage first came into play, and
in that election, November 4, 1884, about 80 of the 500 votes were cast
by women. The results of the election were as follows: J. M. Armstrong,
republican, for Congress, 266 to 226 for C. S. Voorhees, democrat;
joint councilman for the counties of Columbia, Garfield and Asotin,
B. B. Day, republican, 269 to 252 for C. H. Warner, democrat; joint
councilman for the counties of Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin,
Whitman, Adams and Franklin counties, I. Carson, republican, 252 to
211 for S. L. Gilbreath, democrat; joint representative for Asotin and
Garfield counties, J. A. Perkins, republican, 210 to 193 for M. C.
Harris, democrat; joint prosecuting attorney for Columbia, Garfield
and Asotin counties, R. F. Sturdevant, republican, without opposition;
county commissioners, G. B. Wardwell, A. J. Sherrod, and H. W. Ward,
the first two republicans, the last a democrat; probate judge, R. A.
Case, republican; auditor, H. E. Benedict, republican; treasurer, D.
J. Wann, republican; sheriff, J. L. Vinson, democrat; assessor, J. A.
Weisenfels, democrat; coroner, J. J. Lewis, republican; superintendent
of schools, Angie Bean, republican; surveyor, A. Schrader, republican;
sheep commissioner, W. R. Tuttle, republican. Rather curiously,
considering that there were as yet no churches in the county, there was
a vote on taxing church property, a general question, of course. The
vote was, affirmative, 158; negative, 214.
It will be seen that of the successful candidates above, the large
majority were republican, though the votes were very variable.
The outcome of the election of 1886 was similar to that of 1884. C. M.
Bradshaw, republican, led C. S. Voorhees, democrat, though the latter
was the choice of the territory. O. C. White, republican, led W. E.
Ayers, democrat, for joint councilman. R. A. Case, republican, defeated
D. H. Poyneer, democrat, for the house. W. N. Noffsinger, republican,
for joint attorney, lost by one vote to L. J. Dittmore, democrat.
For the county officers the choices were: A. Stiffel for sheriff; H.
E. Benedict for auditor; Jackson O'Keefe for treasurer; J. L. Vinson
for probate judge; J. A. Weisenfels for assessor; Mrs. S. E. Morrill
for superintendent of schools; H. C. Fulton for coroner; A. Schrader
for surveyor; W. R. Tuttle for sheep commissioners; M. Scully, J. D.
Swain and G. B. Wardwell for commissioners. Of the above, Messrs.
O'Keefe, Vinson, Weisenfels and Mrs. Morrill were democrats; the others
republicans.
The election of 1888 shows a considerable diminution in the vote,
due to the invalidating of the woman suffrage law. In this election
John B. Allen triumphed for delegate to congress over C. S. Voorhees,
and the result was the same in the territory. D. T. Welch and W. S.
Oliphant, republicans, were chosen to the council and lower house of
the legislature. The county candidates chosen were A. Stiffel for
sheriff; H. E. Benedict for auditor; Edward Knox, G. W. Philips, and
Frank Huber, for commissioners; W. N. Noffsinger for joint attorney;
G. A. Rogers for probate judge; J. O'Keefe for treasurer; W. R. Tuttle
for assessor; W. W. Henry for superintendent of schools; D. Carson for
surveyor; Len Henry for coroner; James Fuller for sheep commissioner.
The democrats carried a larger proportion of the county offices than
before, Messrs. O'Keefe, Henry, Carson, Philips, and Huber being of
that political persuasion.
The great year of admission to statehood, 1889, had now arrived, Asotin
County was part of District No. 8, of which Adams, Garfield, and
Franklin were the others. Elmon Scott, D. Buchanan, and W. B. Gray were
the ones designated in Asotin County, though, as related in the history
of Garfield County, S. G. Cosgrove, running as an independent, was
chosen in the district instead of Buchanan.
[Illustration: VIEW FROM LEWISTON-ASOTIN HIGHWAY]
A special election occurred on October 1, 1889, for the purpose of
accepting or rejecting the Constitution, choosing state officers, and
voting on location of state capital, woman suffrage and prohibition.
The results in part were these: For Congress, J. L. Wilson, republican,
172; Thomas Griffiths, democrat, 124; for governor, E. P. Ferry,
republican, 171 to 125 for Eugene Semple, democrat; for joint senator,
C. G. Austin, republican, and for representative, William Farrish,
republican. The county clerk was the only local officer named at that
election. John Dill, a republican, was chosen. The vote of the county
was heavily against the Constitution, 201 to 83. Woman suffrage lost
by 97 to 173. Prohibition lost by 113 to 147. Ellensburg received a
majority for state capital, Olympia getting but five votes. It thus
appears that on those special questions at the first election after
statehood, Asotin County was on the losing side in every one.
In the campaign of 1890 the prohibitionists became an active factor
and in one way or another their proposition was held before the people
until in 1914 adherents of all parties joined in the state-wide law and
it was passed by strong majorities. But for many years the party was
small and weak.
The vote of Asotin County in 1890 was small, there being for
congressman only 266. For congressman, John L. Wilson was again
successful. William Farrish was again chosen representative to the
state legislature. The local choices were these: James Justus for
sheriff; Jackson O'Keefe for treasurer; O. Gilmore, R. R. Van Ausdale,
and W. H. Smith, commissioners; D. T. Welch for clerk; William
Rogers for assessor; H. E. Benedict for auditor; D. W. Savage for
superintendent of schools. Of the elected, Messrs. Rogers, Benedict,
Welch, Van Ausdale, Gilmore and Justus were republicans, and Messrs.
Smith, Savage, and O'Keefe were democrats.
The election of 1892 was the first presidential election in which the
State of Washington took part, and, of course, interest was great. It
was also the year of a full state election. The strenuous times and
many mooted questions and new affiliations and realignments of men and
parties made the election one of momentous concern in every unit of
political organization. The result in Asotin County, as in the state,
showed that the republicans were still in the saddle. For President,
the republicans won, 194 to 148 for the democrats, 18 for the people's
party, and 16 for the prohibitionists. John L. Wilson was chosen by a
scanty plurality for Congress, and John H. McGraw by a somewhat larger
plurality for governor. For representative, William Farrish was chosen
again by 234 to 135 for his democratic competitor.
The county candidates chosen were: G. C. Perciful, attorney; D. T.
Welch for clerk; L. B. Howard for treasurer; H. E. Benedict for
auditor; George Kinnear, for assessor; J. L. Wormell for sheriff; D. S.
Jennings for superintendent of schools; M. S. Kling for surveyor; W. H.
Smith and Robert Sangster for commissioners.
The remarkable feature of the election of 1894 was the entrance into
state and national, and of course local politics, of the populist
or people's party, and its sweeping, though short-lived successes.
The leaders of this party in Asotin County were Peter Maguire, W. J.
Boggan, B. W. Knox, G. C. Perciful, L. K. Brown, John Weisenfels,
and J. B. Dick. Politics were rendered something of a chaos by this
movement, and viewed in the retrospect the student of the present can
recognize in that fact infinite cause for gratitude. There is nothing
so essential to political education as occasional radical upheavals.
The populist movement was a sign of political thought by the masses,
and it was a cause of the overthrow of "regular" rule--i. e., boss
rule--and the beginnings of a new democratization--and that is just
about the direction whither the world of 1917, with blood and anguish,
and ultimate new vision, is tending. The result of the election of 1894
in Asotin County for two congressmen in the three-cornered conflict
was that Hyde and Doolittle, republicans, had 165 and 166 votes to 162
and 165 for Van Patten and Adams, populists. The democrats were badly
in the rear with only 52 and 51. C. C. Gibson, a populist, was chosen
to the legislature. For county offices: J. L. Wormell for sheriff;
George Kinnear for assessor; D. T. Welch, auditor; J. W. King, clerk;
D. S. Jennings, superintendent of schools; George Burger, surveyor; L.
Woodruff, coroner; L. B. Howard, treasurer; Robert Sangster and Frank
Huber, commissioners. Of those chosen, Messrs. Kinnear, Woodruff,
and Huber were of the people's party. Messrs. Welch, King, Jennings,
Burger, and Sangster were republicans. Mr. Wormell and Mr. Howard were
democrats.
With another presidential year of 1896, there was even more intense
interest. The populists were apparently stronger than ever. The
democrats hardly entered the field at all. There was a marked increase
in the vote of the county, reaching almost five hundred.
In the presidential contest the result was victory for the people's
party by 254 to 214 for the republican. The P. P. candidates for
Congress, J. H. Lewis and W. C. Jones, obtained 252 to 216 and 211
respectively for Hyde and Doolittle, republicans. For governor, John
R. Rogers, P. P., led Sullivan by thirty. For joint senator, Edward
Baumeister, republican, led J. C. Van Patten by ten majority. R. W.
Caywood, P. P., for representative defeated D. T. Welch by nine. For
county officials: G. W. Kinnear, P. P., for sheriff; J. W. King,
republican, for clerk; Elmer Waldrip, republican, for auditor; W. S.
Rogers, republican, treasurer; Lee Williams, P. P., attorney; H. A.
Whiton, P. P., assessor; Hallie E. Robinson, P. P., superintendent
of schools; George Burger, republican, surveyor; John Steele,
republican, coroner; Frank Huber, P. P., and Samuel Downen, republican,
commissioners.
In 1898 in Asotin, as throughout the country, populism was on the
ebb tide, that is, so far as votes were concerned. It would be a
great error to consider its influence declining. It had accomplished
a permanent mission, the effects of which the country feels today.
In the election of 1898 W. L. Jones and F. W. Cushman, republicans,
restored the prestige of their party in Congress. In the Legislature
of the state, J. F. Crisman, republican, was the choice of the county.
Of the local officers we find: J. L. Wormell, sheriff; Elmer Waldrip,
auditor; A. G. Burnett, clerk; W. S. Rogers, treasurer; M. J. Garrison,
assessor; J. B. Jones, superintendent of schools; Walter Brooks,
attorney; C. L. Swain, surveyor; Charles Iseke, coroner; S. C. Downen
and G. W. Cummings, commissioners. Of the above all were republicans
except J. L. Wormell.
The election of 1900 showed a great increase in the vote. On the
presidential ticket it was 757, of which the republican electors
secured 398. Cushman and Jones were re-elected. John R. Rogers,
democrat, held a slight lead over his republican adversary for
governor. For joint senator Edward Baumeister was again victorious,
by increased majorities. J. F. Crisman was re-elected for the House.
The local officers were: J. L. Wormell, for sheriff; W. G. Woodruff,
for clerk; John B. Bell, auditor; C. S. Florence, treasurer; Walter
Brooks, attorney; W. J. Garrison, assessor; J. B. Jones, superintendent
of schools; L. K. Brown, surveyor; Charles Fairbanks, coroner; B. W.
Yeoman, Alexander Robinson, commissioners. All republicans except
Sheriff Wormell, Clerk Woodruff, and Surveyor Brown.
The election of 1902 being an "off" year, there was something of a
recession of interest. The people's party having nearly vanished, the
contest came between the G. O. P. and the populized democratic party,
to the general discomfiture, however, of the latter. The republicans
carried the election for congressmen and representative, and all the
county offices except one commissioner, surveyor, and clerk. The
successful county candidates were G. W. R. Peaslee, representative;
Robert H. Richards, sheriff; W. G. Woodruff, clerk; J. B. Bell,
auditor; C. S, Florence, treasurer; E. E. Halsey, attorney; R. A.
Wilson, assessor; Lilian Clemans, superintendent of schools; J. Swain,
surveyor; H. R. Merchant, coroner; Jackson O'Keefe, C. D. Cowan,
commissioners.
The year 1904 witnessed another presidential election. It was the
period of flush times. The shadows of the previous decade seemed
to have been dispelled and general activity and a new rush of
population, investment, rising prices, increase in land values,
a spirit of speculation, railroad building, and apparent general
progress characterized the period. As might be expected the tendency
to sustain the party in power, especially in view of the announced and
supposed progressive views of President Roosevelt, became manifested
in tremendous republican majorities. A socialist ticket appeared in
the county, for the first time. The vote cast, 1,066, was the largest
yet known in Asotin County, and gives evidence of a marked increase in
population, as well as a profound interest in results. The republican
presidential electors, five in number, headed by S. G. Cosgrove, had
an average majority of 525 over the democratic. W. E. Humphrey, W.
L. Jones, and F. W. Cushman, for Congress, had nearly four hundred
majority over the democratic candidates. A. E. Mead, republican for
governor, had 528 to 469 for George Turner. For joint state senator, S.
S. Russell, republican, had 603 to 375 for Frank Cardwell, democrat. H.
C. Fulton, republican, was chosen representative by 563 to 440 for J.
L. Wormell, democrat, and 34 for Christian Frost, socialist. For local
officers the choices were: C. S. Florence, auditor; W. G. Woodruff,
treasurer; R. H. Richards, sheriff; M. P. Shaughnessy, clerk; G. H.
Rummens, attorney; Lilian Clemans, superintendent of schools; Frank E.
Brown, assessor; Jay Swain, surveyor; H. R. Merchant, coroner; S. C.
Downen and Frank Body, commissioners. All of the candidates chosen were
republicans except Mr. Woodruff.
With 1908 we reach another presidential year and another republican
victory. The electors for President Taft received an average majority
of 290. Miles Poindexter, as a republican candidate (it seems desirable
to indicate clearly in his case which particular ticket he was on each
time) received a decisive majority, as the first in his long series
of meteoric successes. S. G. Cosgrove had a majority of 365 over his
democratic adversary, Wm. Goodyear. J. R. Stevenson of Pomeroy and E.
E. Halsey of Clarkston had strong majorities for State Senate and House
respectively. The local candidates chosen were: G. N. Ausman, auditor;
Homer L. Post, clerk; M. P. Shaughnessey, attorney; E. H. Dammarell,
treasurer; R. A. Campbell, sheriff; Mary Brannan, superintendent of
schools; Jay Swain, surveyor; C. N. La Fond, assessor; J. R. Walthew,
S. D. Hollister, Jr., commissioners.
The election of 1910 gives results similar to its predecessors so far
as the political complexion was concerned. In this election M. F.
Gose of Pomeroy, a man in whom all parties in the judicial district
had confidence, and who had in the mutations of time transferred
his allegiance from democratic to republican party, received the
unanimous support for the non-partisan supreme judgeship. W. L. La
Follette of Whitman County carried Asotin, as well as the district,
for congressman. E. E. Halsey was re-elected for representative. For
local places, we find J. L. Wormell for sheriff; Homer E. Post, clerk;
E. H. Dammarell, treasurer; G. N. Ausman, auditor; C. N. La Fond,
assessor; S. D. Steininger was chosen for superintendent of schools,
but did not qualify and Mary Brannan was appointed to the place; J.
C. Applewhite, attorney; Jay Swain, surveyor; H. C. Fulton and Eli
Bolick, commissioners; H. R. Merchant, coroner. In this as in previous
elections, it may be said that Judge Chester F. Miller of Dayton
received constant support for superior judge.
Reaching the year 1912, we find ourselves again facing a great national
crisis, out of which momentous history has come. We may note here some
changes in precincts in the county and give them as recorded in that
election: Anatone, Asotin, Bly, Clarkston, Cloverland, Grande Ronde,
Grouse, Pleasant, Theon, and Vineland. The total vote in that year
was 1,901, the large increase being due to the inauguration of woman
suffrage. The vote for presidential electors was: Progressive, 513;
republican, 579; democratic, 551; other parties, 158. For Congress,
the republican candidates, Frost, Dewey, and La Follette, received
majorities; M. E. Hay, republican, for governor, had 802 to 501 for
Eugene Lister, democrat. For state senator, G. N. Ausman, republican,
was chosen, and E. E. Halsey was again elected for representative.
C. F. Miller again received the vote for superior judge. For local
positions: J. L. Wormell, sheriff; L. A. Closuit, clerk; R. M. Snyder,
auditor; E. R. Downen, treasurer; J. C. Applewhite, attorney; W.
G. Woodruff, assessor; W. J. Jerome, superintendent of schools; J.
E. Hoobler, H. C. Fulton, and Eli Bolick, commissioners. That was
something of a democratic year, as Messrs. Wormell, Snyder, Applewhite,
and Woodruff belonged to that party.
In the election of November 3, 1914, there was a total vote of 2,046.
In that year the long contested question of prohibition came to a
decision on the Initiative Law No. 3, providing for prohibition with a
permit system for individual importation. In this decision, the county
vote was overwhelmingly affirmative, being 1,447 to 425. W. L. Jones
was chosen United States Senator by 803 to 608 for Black, democrat,
and La Follette for United States representative by 818 to 567 for
Drumheller, democrat. For representative to State Legislature, E. E.
Halsey was again chosen. For local officers the choices: F. M. Halsey,
sheriff; J. W. Stephens, clerk; Delta Krausdelt, auditor; E. R. Downen,
treasurer; W. S. Woodruff, assessor; W. J. Jerome, superintendent
of schools; V. S. Shelman, engineer; R. C. Stone, O. E. Bailey,
commissioners. These officials were quite evenly divided as to party,
the sheriff, clerk, auditor, assessor, and commissioner, Stone, being
democrats, the others republicans.
[Illustration: MAIN STREET, ASOTIN]
[Illustration: VIEW OF ASOTIN, LOOKING EAST]
Another presidential year, of still more momentous issues and dramatic
surprises comes in with 1916, the year in which the whole world was
reeling with the most insane war ever recorded, and of which it is
evident that the United States must be the ultimate arbiter. We find
in Asotin County in that election 2,506 votes. We find also some
changes in voting precincts. They appear thus: Alpowa, Anatone, Asotin,
Bly, Clarkston, Cloverland, Grande Ronde, Grouse, Hanson, Pleasant,
South Clarkston, Theon, West Asotin, West Clarkston. The total votes
of the three Clarkston precincts was 1,237, with one voter reported
absent. That of the two Asotin precincts was 519, with three absent.
The prohibition question again came to the fore with several measures
designed to impair the law passed in 1914. On Initiative No. 24, one
of those measures, the vote was 314 for to 1,572 against. It may be
added that the negative vote in the state on that measure (allowing
manufacture and sale of beer), as well as the others of the same
character, was so overwhelming, 100,000 or more, that it was hardly
worth while to count it.
The national results of the election were: For the Wilson electors,
1,136; for the Hughes electors, 1,004; for Poindexter, republican, as
senator, 983 to 926 for Turner, democrat; for La Follette, republican
for congressman, 1,142 to 819 for Masterson; McBride, republican
for governor, 927 to 1,182 for Lister, democrat. E. V. Kuykendall,
republican for joint senator, had 1,170 to 882 for Thomson, democrat.
E. E. Halsey again went to the lower House of the Legislature, his
fifth successive election. The local officers were: F. M. Halsey,
sheriff; Homer L. Post, attorney; E. R. Downen, assessor; A. A. Alvord;
superintendent of schools; P. P. Oehler, engineer; G. A. Fraser,
treasurer; Lillie Ausman, auditor; J. W. Stephens, clerk; C. Shumaker,
J. K. McIntosh, commissioners.
MISCELLANEOUS HAPPENINGS
Turning from the record of political events to what may be denominated
the miscellaneous happenings of the county history, we may note that
Asotin has had its full share. The beautiful creek that now furnishes
the water for several thousand acres of the great Clarkston project, a
stream of much picturesque beauty as it makes its way, swiftly indeed,
but with apparent serenity and general decorum through the lower
end of the town into Snake River, has taken the liberty on several
occasions to gather up reinforcements from the plains through which
its tributaries have worn their way, and has come sweeping down the
steep declivities in torrents that threatened to tear out everything in
its course. It is quite well under control now, due to the extensive
impounding and distribution processes of the irrigation system, but
formerly in case of sudden rain or Chinook winds, the vast amount of
surface from which the water must drain through the single channel
might transform it in a few hours from a bright pellucid mountain creek
into a veritable river of turbid torrents. The most famous floods were
those of 1887, 1894, and 1897. That of 1894 was the greatest in a
general way in the Columbia and Snake and all their tributaries ever
known by white men, and according to Indians has not been equaled for
many years, possibly several centuries. Nearly the whole of the lower
part of Asotin was covered and the road between Asotin and Clarkston
was under water in numerous places. So far as destruction from the
creek was concerned, however, the flood of May 20, 1897, was the most
disastrous of any. This was due to a cloud burst covering most of
the upper sources of the creek. Since there was but a gentle rain at
Asotin there was no conception of what was impending from above, until
the roaring of the torrent heralded its approach. For a distance of
fifteen miles the bed of the stream was swept clean. All the bridges
were carried out and many of the houses, gardens, and other property
destroyed.
Mr. Baumeister points out in his beautiful yard, with its stone wall
ten feet high on the creek margin, how the water rose high above the
top of the wall. Considering the irresistible force of a column of
water fifteen or eighteen feet high rushing down that steep descent
and considering the destruction of property it seems strange indeed
that there were no human lives lost. It seems to have been by a series
of fortunate happenings that those in peril were in positions to save
themselves. The schoolhouse in the Hopwood District was swept away, but
the teacher, hearing the tumult, had led the children to the hillside
just in time.
The most notable fires in the history of Asotin Town were on February
3, 1886, in which the Pioneer Hotel belonging to Mrs. Lile was
destroyed, and that of March 15, 1893, in which the City Hotel,
belonging to Mrs. Myers, was burned. The feature of the second fire
which gave it great notoriety was that a man named Frank Sherry
perished in the flames. It appeared that Charles E. Myers, the husband
of the woman who conducted the hotel, but who had been separated from
her, had been found not guilty of killing a man some years before as
result of difficulty about his first wife. The sentiment upon the
discovery of the death of Sherry became intense in the town and it was
reported to officers that there was a plan for lynching Myers, who had
become charged with having fired the hotel in order to punish his wife
and a man of whom he was jealous. _The Sentinel_, in speaking of the
event in its issue of March 31st, declares that the reports of purposed
lynching are exaggerated and that the people of the place have no other
thought than a fair trial. As a matter of fact, Myers was conveyed to
Dayton. He was subsequently tried for murder. The case was remarkable
in that it was appealed twice to the Supreme Court and on the first
appeal was retried. The verdict of guilty was affirmed in both cases.
Petitions for pardon were sent to Gov. John H. McGraw, but he declined
to stop the course of judicial decision, and Myers, without at any time
having confessed the crime, was executed on September 30, 1895, two
and a half years after the alleged crime. The execution took place at
Pomeroy, and in accordance with the barbarous and horrible law then
prevailing was public, and it is stated that hundreds of men, women and
children were present.
The annals of the county were marked in August, 1896, with the lynching
of a half-breed, Viles, for a sexual outrage, and the same kind of
punishment for a similar offense with murder was meted out to a boy
named Hamilton in the same month of 1903. The old timers in discussing
those events express the opinion that though lynch law is to be
deplored, and though in the second case the criminal was a half-witted
degenerate, yet the proof was clear in both cases (for both confessed),
and the condign punishment well-merited.
Turning from the miscellaneous events to the constructive industries of
the county, we may say that there has been a steady and substantial,
though not rapid increase in population, production, and property
valuation, year by year from the date of county organization. The
original stock industry gave way to grain farming, and in that Asotin
County has been, for its area, one of the most productive in the state.
It is asserted that Asotin warehouses and platforms along the Snake
River from which the steamboats gather up the wheat, constitute the
greatest initial grain shipping point or series of points on the O. W.
R. and N. R. R. system.
ORCHARDS AND GARDENS
But though the wheat and barley of the prairies constitute already
a great production and will in the future constitute a still larger
source of revenue, the most interesting and important industry is
horticulture and fruit raising. In the area of land devoted to
intensive farming under irrigation, Asotin has nearly as much as
the other three counties of old Walla Walla put together. This very
important productive area, which comprises the most distinctive feature
of the county, centers at Clarkston. The history of this industry and
this place constitutes a chapter by itself, unique in the history of
the Northwest.
The Clarkston project has been practically the work of one of the
most noted historic families of the United States, that of the Adams
family of Boston. Charles Francis Adams the second, when president of
the Union Pacific R. R., formed the conception of an irrigated tract
under ideal conditions upon land which he could see had superior
advantages of location, soil, and climate, that is to say the broad
flat, with successive benches, on the west side of the junction of the
Snake and Clearwater. That location was first called Lewiston. Then in
remembrance of the historic name of Concord, Mass., dear to the New
Englanders who were founding the enterprise, the name Concord was used.
Objections on the part of local residents arose, and on April 6, 1900,
the name of the voting precinct was changed by the county commissioners
to Clarkston, as the fitting mate to Lewiston, recalling the two
leaders of the first expedition of discovery. By special petition to
the Federal authorities the name of Clarkston was adapted for the name
of the town.
The enterprise at Clarkston was in reality, it should be observed, a
second thought on the part of Mr. Adams, for his first plan was the
development of what is now known as the Indian Cache Ranch, formerly
known as the Adams Ranch, on the north side of the Clearwater, a
short distance above Lewiston. That splendid property was the first
undertaking of Mr. Adams.
The first organization of the project at Clarkston was effected in
1896 under the name of the Lewiston Water and Power Co., of which
Henry Adams the Second, son of Charles Francis Adams, became the
head. This company ultimately had a capital of $2,000,000. In 1900
the company acquired the property of the Lewiston Light Company which
had been formed in 1899 to provide electric light and power for
the City of Lewiston. In 1904 the Asotin Land and Water Company's
holdings were acquired and the projects were all blended in the
Lewiston-Clarkston Company, and that in turn was reorganized in 1910 as
the Lewiston-Clarkston Improvement Company. Henry Adams, with members
of his family, retained the majority of the stock. At the present
time, the properties are segregated into two distinct divisions. The
Lewiston-Clarkston Improvement Company conducts the land business,
while the utility work, the light and power business, is conducted
under the name of the Washington-Idaho Water, Light and Power Co.
Such is a bare outline of the general plan and changes effected by
reorganization of this remarkable enterprise. Entering a little more
into detail, it is of interest to note that the initial incorporators
of the Lewiston Water and Power Company were E. H. Libby, formerly of
Yakima, C. C. Van Arsdil and Dr. J. B. Morris of Lewiston, and G. W.
Bailey and Wm. Farrish of Asotin. This incorporation acquired 2,500
acres at low figures, ranging from ten to twenty-five dollars per acre,
largely from the original entrymen, Edward Pearcy, E. J. Warner, Wm.
Caldwell, S. Wildenthaler, Joseph Alexander, Chris Weisenberger, D. S.
Dent, John Aubin, together with a tract that had been secured by the
New England Mortgage Security Company. E. H. Libby became president of
the company. Land secured, water was the next requisite. The Asotin
Creek had already been filed on and in 1896, July 18th, water actually
reached Vineland. Mr. Libby acted as manager, with intermissions,
until April 7, 1911. Mr. Libby, with W. G. Clark, engineered the
reorganization of the Lewiston-Clarkston Company, which in 1910 became
the Lewiston-Clarkston Improvement Company. At that time Spencer
Trask & Company of New York, took $600,000 bonds of the new company
and acquired an interest in the common stock. H. L. Powers, now of
Lewiston, became vice president and manager in 1911, with Henry Adams
as president, and retained the position till 1912, when he removed
to Lewiston. He continued to act as vice president of the Lewiston
Land & Water Company. Robert A. Foster, who had come in 1910 as
engineer, became in 1912 the vice president and general manager of the
Improvement Company, and in 1914, its president.
Land and water secured, the next necessity was a bridge across Snake
River. Clarkston was so logically connected with Lewiston, though in
another state, that a direct connection by a bridge was vital. The City
of Lewiston granted to Mr. Libby a charter for the construction of a
bridge in May, 1896. It was completed and opened for traffic June 24,
1899. This was a great bridge, 1,450 feet long, lifted so high above
the river as to allow steamers to pass under. The first articles of
incorporation of the bridge first known as the Lewiston-Concord Bridge,
were dated November 26, 1897, and the incorporators were E. H. Libby
and George W. Bailey. The incorporation was practically identical with
the Lewiston Water and Power Company. Being across a navigable river
the plans had to be approved by the secretary of war, and a permit
granted by Congress. These necessities were duly accomplished in 1898.
The contract for the construction called for $110,000. In 1914 the
bridge became the joint property of the two states, for $80,000.
Asotin Creek has a mean annual discharge of 39,410 acre feet. The
system makes provision for a domestic and municipal consumption for
10,000 people, and irrigation supply for 6,000 acres. The main pipe
line is eleven miles long, and is from thirty-two to forty-eight inches
in diameter, made of wooden staves, except where it crosses Maguire
Gulch, a very high pressure steel pipe, four feet in diameter is used.
[Illustration: ONE VIEW OF THE PARTIALLY COMPLETED TWENTY MILLION
GALLON POMEROY GULCH RESERVOIR. A LINK IN THE PRESSURE WATER SERVICE
FOR THE IRRIGATION AND DOMESTIC SUPPLY OF CLARKSTON-VINELAND]
The Pomeroy Reservoir has a capacity of 20,000,000 cubic feet or 460
acre feet.
The major part of what has generally been known as Clarkston-Vineland
has been sold by the company and is cultivated in small tracts,
beautifully laid out and developed, trees, flowers, shrubbery, and
lawns, a continuous village, thus fulfilling the noble ideal of the
projectors as being a model irrigation project. The company has,
however, retained possession of the larger part of the magnificent
Clarkston Heights and is handling that property as a unit. It is a
district hard to match among the irrigated tracts of the Northwest.
It has every conceivable advantage of soil, climate, scenery, water
supply, and when ultimately sold will be one of the rare home lands
of the world. The company still owns about one-third of the townsite
of Clarkston and about five thousand acres of land, of which 927.98
acres are in apple trees in a solid body. The apple trees are divided
as follows in percentages: Winesap, 40 per cent; Yellow Newtowns, 15;
Spitzenberg, 15; Jonathan, 10; Rome Beauty, 10; assorted varieties, 10.
The average holding on the tract is only 3-1/2 acres, making this the
most densely populated irrigation district in the United States.
The electric power and light properties of the company, under another
organization, as stated, constitute a system by themselves. The power
plant comprises the Asotin power station, the Pomeroy power station,
the Clarkston auxiliary steam plant, and the Lewiston sub station;
a total of 3,200 horse power. There is also a power development on
the Grande Ronde River, 2-1/2 miles above the mouth and 28-1/2 miles
from Clarkston, with a minimum of 6,900 horse power, and a peack load
capacity of 10,000 horse power. Through these plants the company
supplies with power and light the towns of Asotin, Clarkston, Lewiston
and Lapwai, having a population of about fifteen thousand.
One of the most important recent enterprises in the development of this
section is the electric railway from Lewiston across the interstate
bridge to Clarkston and Vineland, a total amount of four miles of
street railway. This work was completed in the summer of 1916. It is
owned by the Lewiston-Clarkston Transit Company. Contrary to the recent
experience of some of the "Twin City" trolley enterprises, which have
been seriously affected by jitney competition, this undertaking is said
to be amply rewarded by financial results. There is so much transit
during the fruit picking and packing season and there is so much
general activity of movement to and from Lewiston, that the cars are
almost constantly well filled. There was a total of 2,000,000 passenger
crossings over the bridge during the year ended at this writing.
The Clarkston-Vineland region has none of the first pioneer settlers
left. There are, however, a number of what may be called the second
wave of immigration, prior to the inauguration of the Improvement
Company. Mr. and Mrs. F. G. Morrison are said to be the earliest comers
now living in the town. They came in 1878, though not to the place
where they are now living. At the time of their coming the ferry was
maintained by Ed Pearcy. E. J. Warner had a claim in what is now the
business part of Clarkston. "Johnnie" Greenfield, an old bachelor, was
then living on the "flat." He was a landscape gardener of much ability,
having been employed to lay out Woodward's Gardens in San Francisco.
There was a family named Pearsall living a little west of the present
home of Mr. Morrison, having four sons, Jerry, Jake, William, and Ed.
We referred earlier in this chapter to O. F. Canfield. He is a man of
unique interest, both by reason of keen intellect, many adventures in
the wildest regions of the Pacific Coast, and his peculiarly marked
pioneer traits. He came as a ten year old boy with his father, W. D.
Canfield, and the family from Iowa across the plains in 1847. Being
late in reaching Oregon, the father decided to accept the urgent
invitation of Dr. Whitman that he remain at Waiilatpu (Mr. Canfield
says that the Indians sounded that historic name more as _Waiilatipsu_)
for the winter. They had been there but about a month when the dreadful
Whitman massacre of November 29, 1847, occurred. The father of the
family was shot by the Indians, but by reason of a glancing bullet was
not seriously, though painfully wounded. In the general excitement
he evaded observation and remaining in hiding till night managed to
communicate with Mrs. Canfield and the children. Thinking from all
the indications that the Indians were not going to murder the women
and children, Mr. Canfield decided to try to reach Spalding's station
at Lapwai where he hoped that he might find rescuers for the captives
at Waiilatpu. Though bleeding from his wound, and having but scanty
food or clothing in the freezing weather of winter he set out and with
terrible suffering reached Lapwai. The son, now a white haired man
of seventy-eight, tells us that his father would never have reached
Lapwai, had not old Timothy, the Nez Percé chief of the Alpowa,
succored him and carried him across the river. Being on the north
side of the river he was comparatively safe and reached Lapwai. Years
after, so Mr. Canfield tells us, he saw Timothy, then very old and
destitute. Telling him that he was the son of the man whom he saved at
that momentous time, he told the old Indian that he wanted to pay him
for saving his father. But Timothy would not take anything. He said,
striking his breast, that he had "_hyas close tumtum_." It was "_halo
chickamon_." Finally Mr. Canfield induced the old man to accept some
tobacco and an overcoat as presents, but not as pay.
Mr. Canfield told another Indian story of very different character,
worthy of preservation. When Howlish Wampoo, the famous Umatilla
chief, was the ruler of his tribe he had many horses, some fine racing
animals. There was a great horse racer at that time named Joe Crabbe,
living in Portland. Crabbe had known of Howlish Wampoo's fast horses
and was anxious to get up some races and incidentally clean up some
big bets. Going to Umatilla he finally engineered a big meet with the
Indians. The crowning event was to be between Crabbe's champion and
anything that the Indian chief could bring on. Howlish Wampoo was very
crafty. He might have been a Teuton diplomat of the present. He brought
out and made a great parade of a spotted horse which he said he was
going to run, and then innocently put the horse in a corral very handy
to the white men. Crabbe's hustlers took the horse out in the night, no
Indians being in sight, and tried him. They found that he was nothing
extra fast, and so they made all their plans in the light of that
discovery. The next day came the great race. Everything was excitement,
and betting went to a great pitch. Crabbe finally put up $1,500 on his
horse and at last even his silver mounted saddle and spurs. Howlish
Wampoo accepted the bets with seeming reluctance and Indian stoicism.
When the horses were brought out Crabbe saw with some suspicion that
the spotted Indian racer looked a little different and stepped a
little different from what he did the day before. As he told Canfield
in relating his experience he "felt a sort of cold chill go down his
back." But it was too late to back out. Off they went, a four mile
race, two miles to a stake, around it and back again. The Indian horse
was evidently not the same horse. He went like a shot out of a gun and
reached the goal post so much ahead that his rider turned back to run
again with Crabbe's champion, and then beat him into camp. The Indians
made an awful clean up on the white men's bets. Howlish Wampoo, with
just a faint suspicion of an inward grin on his mahogany countenance,
told Crabbe that he might have his saddle and spurs back again, and
enough money to get home on.
Afterwards Crabbe made great offers to the Indian for the spotted
racer, wishing to take him East or even to Europe, for he was satisfied
that he could beat the world in a four mile race. But Howlish Wampoo
would never sell the pet racer.
Mr. Canfield remembers the events of the Whitman massacre with
intensity and narrates them with vividness. He considers the
fundamental cause to have been the fear by the Indians that the whites
were going to dispossess them of their lands, and that their fears in
that respect were fostered by Tom Hill, a renegade Delaware Indian,
who had drifted across the continent, having come considerable part
of the way with the Canfields. Jo Lewis, a half-breed, who had been
greatly befriended by the Whitmans, was another inciting cause. Both
of them were bad men and grossly betrayed their benefactors. The fatal
scourge of measles and the death of some of Whitman's patients was
an occasion for the outbreak, but the fear of white occupation was,
in Mr. Canfield's judgment, the real cause. He says that he knows
that Tamsucky was the leader in the massacre and that it was he who
buried his tomahawk in Whitman's head. There was reason to believe
that Tamsucky afterwards greatly regretted his act. There were four
Indian chiefs, Isticcas, Moolipool, Tinsinmitsal, and Beardy, who were
steadfast friends of the whites. This assertion of Mr. Canfield is the
more interesting by reason of the fact that Miles Cannon in his recent
book, "Waiilatpu," asserts that Isticcas was a traitor and participated
in the massacre. Mr. Canfield is confident that that is an error. Mrs.
Jacobs (well known in Walla Walla, now living in Portland, an eight
year old child at the time of the massacre, a member of the Osborne
family, who were present at the tragedy), supports Mr. Canfield's
statement, declaring that old timers asserted that if there were any
Christians in the country, Isticcas was one. Mr. Cannon in his book
also expresses the opinion that Mr. Rogers basely asserted to the
Indians that Doctor Whitman was poisoning them, hoping thereby to save
his own life. Mrs. Jacobs declares that this statement is absolutely
false and that Mr. Rogers, like the rest of the victims, died like a
hero and a Christian.
Doctor Whitman, according to Mr. Canfield's recollection, while one of
the noblest and bravest of men, was not a "fighting man," submitting
rather tamely, as he thought, to insults by the Indians. Nor was he
so large and powerful a man physically as some have described him.
The most valuable testimony about Whitman is found in the statement
by Mr. Canfield that he heard him several times discussing the future
of this region with the elder Canfield. He urged him to remain in the
Walla Walla Valley, pointing out that since it had become American
territory it offered greater inducements to settlement than any other
part of Oregon. He thought it better than the Willamette Valley. He
declared that it was the best sheep country in the world, that during
the eleven winters since he came to Walla Walla there were only two in
which sheep could not have grazed the year round. He proposed that Mr.
Canfield locate near Waiilatpu, and the next year join with himself
in an organized drive of a large band of sheep into the country and
the inauguration of a permanent wool industry. He figured that they
could work their wool down to The Dalles and there reach regular boat
connections and from the Lower Columbia ship by sailing vessels to
New York, Boston, and Europe. It was certainly a great conception and
demonstrates anew the practical judgment and far vision of the martyr
of Waiilatpu.
THE TOWNS OF ASOTIN COUNTY
Asotin and Clarkston are the only organized towns in Asotin County.
As stated earlier there was a double location, Assotin City and Asotin,
for what has now become one town under the latter name. The former
place was laid out by Alexander Sumpter in May, 1878. On July 22,
1880, the dedication was made by Mr. and Mrs. Sumpter, and at the same
time a postoffice was located there. The next year Mr. Sumpter erected
a warehouse. The ferry across Snake River was established by J. J.
Kanawyer in October, 1881.
A flour mill was put up in 1883 by L. O. Stimson at a point about
two-thirds of a mile up the creek from its mouth. That mill was run for
a time by John Dill, then by Curtis and Braden, who bought out Stimson.
A little later than Mr. Sumpter's location, Mr. Schank employed A.
T. Beall to survey his land near the mouth of the creek for a town
site. The plot of this location was filed November 10, 1881, by T. M.
E. Schank, W. H. Reed, Louise D. Reed, and Alexander Reed. Various
additions have been made to the original site. Mr. S. J. Sergeant
tells us that when he came to Asotin in 1879, there was nothing except
Schank's cabin. During the next year Mr. Schank and Mr. Reed set out in
earnest to start their town. In the issue of the _Sentinel_ of April
24, 1885, we find an advertisement that would do credit to a Spokane
real estate dealer setting forth the desirability of the location for
business, loans or investment. Lots are announced at from thirty to one
hundred and fifty dollars, and "sure to advance."
In the _Asotin Spirit_, beginning October 19, 1883, succeeded by the
_Sentinel_, June 24, 1885, we find other interesting ads, of that day.
In the first number of the _Spirit_ Pettyjohn and McAlpin advertise
their general store. F. E. Scott of Theon announces that he will sell
wines, whiskeys, oysters, candies, medicines, and toilet articles. The
ferry of J. J. and P. Kanawyer appears and it is asserted that the road
to Lewiston by that crossing is far better than any other. The Assotin
Flour Mills of Curtis and Braden have good space, and they announce
that they will give thirty-five pounds of flour and six pounds of bran
for a bushel of wheat.
[Illustration: MAIN STREET, LOOKING SOUTH, CLARKSTON]
[Illustration: PUBLIC LIBRARY, CLARKSTON]
In the _Sentinel_ of various issues in 1885, we find the advantages
of the Pearcy ferry displayed. The Lile House of J. D. Lile appears.
In the _Sentinel_ of June 24, 1885, is a flaming prospectus of a
"Grand Social Hop" to occur in Embree Hall on the eve of the Fourth.
The floor managers were to be Wm. Critchfield, J. P. Fine, and Henry
Thomason. The committee of arrangements was to consist of C. S. Morey,
J. P. Fulton, Al Stiffel, and A. M. Morris. The Packwood Pearce and
Warner String Band was to provide music. Tickets were to be $2.25. The
_Sentinel_ of October 9, 1885, contains the obituary of Mr. Schank
who had died by suicide, hanging himself in his own house in what was
supposed to be a moment of aberration through business worry. In the
same number is a remarkably drawing ad., by Baumeister and Co. to the
farmers. The cards of L. J. Dittmore and G. W. Bailey, lawyers, appear.
It may be very suitable to give here the successive stages in the
history of the one paper which has held the field substantially all
the time. Coming to Asotin from Pataha and taking with it the name of
_Spirit_, it was published at first by J. H. Ginder and Co., to be
succeeded, March 28, 1884, by D. B. Pettyjohn, editor and proprietor.
October 9, 1885, the paper became the _Sentinel_, published by the
Sentinel Publishing Co. It continued under that name for over fourteen
years, and on November 4, 1899, appeared as the _Asotin County
Sentinel_, the editors and proprietors being Elmer Waldrip and Kay
L. Thompson. Mr. Thompson has been sole proprietor since 1902, and
has conducted the paper with conspicuous ability, making of it one
of the best weeklies in the state. It can be truly affirmed that the
_Sentinel_ has been a great factor in the development of Asotin County.
In 1887, the rival town sites had practically blended, or rather
the most of Assotin City had slid down to Asotin. The time for
incorporation seemed to have arrived. On May 28, 1888, a meeting of
citizens was held in Baumeister's Hall, for preparing incorporation
papers. These were approved by Judge W. G. Langford, territorial judge,
on June 15th, and thus Asotin became an incorporation. The judge
appointed D. Talbot, H. C. Fulton, W. J. Clemans, J. N. Rice, and
Edward Baumeister a provisional board of trustees. The first election
was held April 1, 1889, and the trustees elect were as follows: J. K.
Rice, D. J. Wann, J. H. Bingham, M. B. Mitchell and James Michie.
But like some other "plans of mice and men" this went "agley." The
Supreme Court of the new state made a decision in February, 1890, which
invalidated such towns as had been incorporated by order of district
courts.
This set aside all the proceedings of Asotin thus far. Feeling that
the indications thus far were such as to justify incorporation, the
citizens petitioned the county commissioners on May 29, 1890, to
call an election for incorporation under the state law. An election
having been set it was duly held on June 21st. Thus Asotin was duly
reincorporated under state law, and the officers selected were these:
Mayor, Charles Isecke; councilmen, H. E. Benedict, Edward Baumeister,
N. Ausman, Richard Ruddy, and L. B. Howard; treasurer, J. O'Keefe.
Different citizens of Asotin to hold the place of chief executive
of the city have been Charles Isecke, who, as stated, was the first
incumbent of the office in 1890, and who held it for three years, and
was again chosen in 1906 to serve for two years. Edward Baumeister was
elected mayor in 1905.
J. B. Jones was the choice for mayor in 1908 and continued in 1909 and
1910.
The first council chosen on June 21, 1890, consisted, as noted, of H.
E. Benedict, Edward Baumeister, N. Ausman, R. Ruddy, and L. B. Howard.
Without endeavoring to give the complete list of city officials we will
pass on to 1905, and in that year we find the council composed of Kay
L. Thompson, J. B. Jones, M. B. Coon, G. A. Brown and H. Critchfield.
In 1906 the personnel of the council was this: E. H. Dammarrell, S. J.
Sargeant, F. B. Jones, M. B. Coon, Kay L. Thompson. In 1907, Messrs.
Coon, Sargeant, and Dammarrell were re-elected, and R. Graham and Ben
Ayers came in as new members. In 1908, Mr. Ayers was re-elected, but
the other four were new men, A. Beckman, C. Brantner, M. J. Garrison,
H. C. Fulton. In 1909, all held over with the exception of Mr.
Garrison, the new member elect being E. G. MacFarlane. Beginning with
1910 the mayors and councilmen have been the following:
1910--J. B. Jones, mayor. Councilmen: A. Beckman, M. J. Garrison, Ben
Ayers, E. G. MacFarlane, and C. M. Brantner. Treasurer: I. N. Brazeau.
Clerk: C. S. Florence.
1911--Mayor: J. R. Glover. Councilmen: Kenneth McIntosh, Jay Swain, Ben
Ayers, E. G. MacFarlane, and M. J. Garrison. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz.
Clerk: E. Matthes.
1912--Mayor: J. R. Glover. Councilmen: Ben Ayers, Chas. S. Florence, A.
Beckman and K. McIntosh. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz. Clerk: E. Matthes.
1913--Mayor: J. R. Glover. Councilmen: Ben Ayers, K. McIntosh, A.
Beckman, Chas. S. Florence and Geo. W. Bailey. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz.
Clerk: E. Matthes.
1914--Mayor: J. R. Glover. Councilmen: Ben Ayers, Geo. W. Bailey, L. H.
Jurgens, W. A. Forgey and A. Beckman. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz. Clerk: I.
N. Brazeau.
1915--Mayor: A. A. Wormell. Councilmen: E. R. Downen, K. McIntosh, W.
A. Forgey, L. H. Jurgens and Ben Ayers. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz. Clerk:
C. A. Laufer.
1916--Mayor: A. A. Wormell. Councilmen: L. H. Jurgens, Ben Ayers, A.
A. Alvord, K. McIntosh and E. R. Downen. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz. Clerk:
Chas. S. Florence. On April 4, 1916, Wormell resigned, and on April 18,
1916, M. J. Garrison appointed mayor by council for unexpired term.
1917--Mayor: M. J. Garrison. Councilmen: L. H. Jurgens, E. R. Downen,
Ben Ayers, A. A. Alvord and K. McIntosh. Treasurer: Ed Bucholz. Clerk:
Chas. S. Florence.
CLARKSTON INCORPORATED
The incorporation of Clarkston has its first mention in the minutes
of the county commissioners on January 7, 1901, when a petition from
71 citizens was received asking for such action. The proposition was
lost by vote of 15 to 37 on August 5th. The petitioners returned to the
charge on May 5, 1902, to incorporate Clarkston and Vineland as a city
of the third class. This was defeated May 24th by 70 to 110. At the
meeting of the commissioners on July 8, 1902, there came still another
petition, asking that Clarkston be incorporated as a city of the fourth
class. An election on that issue was held on August 2d, and this time
incorporation won, 45 to 31. At the next meeting the commissioners
rearranged the precinct, making the limits of Clarkston coterminous
with the incorporation and from the remainder creating Vineland
Precinct.
[Illustration: HIGH SCHOOL BUILDING, CLARKSTON]
Following this election Clarkston was duly incorporated, and the first
city government had its meeting for formal organization on August
26th. Alexander Robinson was the first mayor. L. S. Lehm was the first
treasurer. The council consisted of George S. Bailey, C. S. Whitford,
A. S. Burnett, V. Anderson, and S. J. Roberts. Wm. Porter was appointed
clerk, Robert F. Klein marshal, and E. E. Halsey city attorney. The
first regular election occurred in December, 1902. The former officers
were re-elected, with the exception of Burnett and Roberts, who were
succeeded by S. T. Ramsey and Mr. Halligus. Mayor Robinson died in
1903. The election of December 8, 1903, resulted in the election of
F. C. Brown as mayor. The councilmen consisted of S. T. Ramsey, C. S.
Whitford, A. S. Burnett, V. Anderson, and A. J. Wood. Mr. Lehm was
re-elected treasurer. The appointive officers were continued.
Mr. Frank N. Brown continued to be rechosen to the position of mayor
from 1903 to 1907. The mayors following were these: R. M. Yount,
1907 to 1908; D. B. Parks, 1909 to 1910; R. M. Yount, 1910 to 1913;
Dr. Paul W. Johnson, 1913 to 1914; E. J. Bailey, 1914 to 1916; J. E.
Hoobler, 1916 to 1917. During the period from 1903 to 1917, we find
the councilmen to have been: from 1903 to 1908, J. E. Hoobler, E. R.
Stevens, S. T. Smiley, C. W. Hunton, and E. J. Bailey; 1909, F. M.
Hartley, J. E. Heritage, S. L. Fowler, I. W. Rucker, H. S. Jones; 1910
and 1911, J. E. Hoobler, D. H. Stephens, S. L. Fowler, I. W. Rucker,
D. H. Ransom; 1912, T. W. Hartley, J. E. Hoobler, I. W. Rucker, Herman
Frank; 1913, J. E. Heritage, Mr. Daege, E. J. Dewar, J. P. Goetchius,
H. G. Jones, F. M. Hartley, Herman Frank; 1914, Robert Meyer, J. H.
Maynard, Herman Frank, H. S. Jones, F. M. Hartley, Mr. Bundy, J. E.
Heritage; 1915, F. M. Hartley, W. E. Potter, John Whistler, P. T.
Lomax, F. M. Talbot, L. M. Faulkenbury, P. F. Stillings; 1916, J.
H. Maynard, E. J. Price, H. S. Jones, F. M. Hartley, Mr. Bundy, P.
T. Lomax, Mr. Hill--by resignation of Mr. Hartley, Lee Morris was
appointed; 1917, John Getty, J. H. Clear, L. E. Morrison, I. W. Knight,
M. W. Isle, W. O. Bond, C. B. Thomson. For several years past G. L.
Ackley has been clerk.
Both Asotin and Clarkston have maintained commercial clubs since
their early days. In Asotin the officers of the present are Edward
Baumeister, president; and Charles S. Florence, secretary-treasurer.
The club at Clarkston was organized on September 11, 1899, and was
first known as the Business Men's Association. Its first special aim
was the gravelling of the very dusty streets. The officers of the
first organization were: H. C. Whetstone, president; C. M. Evans, vice
president; T. W. Enos, secretary; Alexander Robinson, treasurer. In
1908 it was reorganized, named Commercial Club, and the officers chosen
were: E. H. Libby, president; R. B. Hooper, vice president; J. E.
Hoobler, secretary-treasurer.
An attractive, though not large building was erected, with the
expectation of using it as a library, but when the Carnegie Library was
built, the former building became the property of the city, and is now
used as a council room, as well as a Commercial Club meeting place. The
present officers of the club are: E. J. Bailey, president; Lee Morris,
vice president; Lester Hoobler, secretary-treasurer. By reason of the
departure of Mr. Hoobler to join the army, the duties of secretary are
now in the hands of G. L. Ackley.
The educational system of Asotin County, like that of other units of
old Walla Walla, has been typically American, one of the bed rock
institutions in the upbuilding of the new land. From the first the
people of the county have taken pride in their schools and while not
absolutely true at all times and in all places to the highest interest
of their children--as none are even in the State of Washington--they
have results which make a demonstration of high ideals. There has been
steady advancement from the log schoolhouse day to date.
The first school in what is now Asotin County was at Anatone, then
the most flourishing community in what was then the eastern part of
Columbia County. It is worthy of special note that the building was
erected and the school maintained by the settlers themselves without
any county appropriation. Miss Angie Bean, now Mrs. Tuttle and now
living on Anatone Prairie, was the teacher of that pioneer school.
We are informed by Mr. John Romaine, who came to Anatone in 1878,
that the school was at its best during the first dozen or so years of
its existence. As has not infrequently occurred in exclusively grain
regions, the large farmers have absorbed the small ones and after a
certain stage has been reached population tends to decline. As a result
school districts diminish. Thus it has proved at Anatone.
The first school in Asotin City dates to 1881. The first teacher was
Miss Blanche Marsilliott. There seems to have been much tribulation at
Asotin about building an adequate schoolhouse. Not until 1904 was there
sufficient space for the steadily increasing numbers in the town. Even
with the handicap of insufficient space and equipment a high standard
seems to have been maintained, insomuch that the report of the State
College at Pullman indicated that the graduates of the Asotin High
School stand at the head in preparation for advanced work.
As giving a clear and effective general view of the present status of
the schools of Asotin County, we incorporate here a few paragraphs
for which we are indebted to Prof. W. J. Jerome, formerly county
superintendent and now city superintendent of Asotin.
PRESENT STATUS ASOTIN COUNTY SCHOOLS
By W. J. Jerome
The county being strictly an agricultural district, except for a
small portion devoted to the fruit industry, the school population is
comparatively small. Nevertheless the interest in education has always
been great and is steadily increasing.
The number of school census children in the county in May, 1917, was
1,777 but the number actually enrolled in the schools of the county for
the year was 1,884. The fact that the number enrolled is greater than
the number of census children is largely due to the fact that a large
number of children come into the schools of Asotin and Clarkston from
other places to take advantage of the good schools and the mild winter
climate.
The county contains two fully accredited high schools, Asotin and
Clarkston. Clarkston had a total enrollment during the past year of
1,005, Asotin, 317. The interest in education in each of these places
is very great and each maintains a fully equipped high school not
only carrying the regular old line courses but offering courses in
industrial arts as well. The Asotin School was the pioneer in the
county in the newer branches and is at present the best equipped
school in the county for work in manual training, home economics,
agriculture and science work. However Clarkston is now beginning a
program of industrial education that will soon place that district in
the forefront in this line of work.
There are also two other centers, Anatone and Cloverland, which have
introduced these new subjects and are rapidly building up splendid
little high school centers.
Perhaps the greatest change in the county has come to the one room
rural schoolhouse. In many cases the simple log building has been
replaced by a neat modern building, heated and ventilated by some of
the new heating and ventilating systems and provided with all modern
equipment.
Many of the remote rural schools employ normal graduates at good wages,
provide hot lunches during the cold weather, have a library, do some
work with tools and are as much abreast of the times as the schools of
the towns.
In the matter of expense for public education, the question never has
been how little but how much can we afford to give or how much can we
give. The configuration of the county has made necessary many remote
and small communities and it is astonishing how much the people in
these remote communities have been willing to sacrifice to educate
their children and when it has been impossible to maintain a local
school on account of the small valuation or small number of pupils many
families have annually moved to town for the winter months to give
their children the opportunities of the schools.
The amount spent last year, 1917, for the entire county was $65,793.
When it is remembered that we have not a mile of railroad in the county
and no manufacturing industries whatever and that our total valuation
is but little over $4,000,000, it will be plain that Asotin County
shows its interests in education in a most practical way.
Every year a considerable number of young people enter higher
institutions of learning, and an increasing number are coming back into
the county as teachers, ranchers, etc.
Perhaps the most striking thing about the schools of the county is the
great variety of physical conditions found. At Asotin and Clarkston
and other points on the Snake River the climate is mild, in fact a
veritable winter resort for this entire section, while up on the high
flats one could imagine himself on the prairies of Iowa or the Dakotas
in the winter. Some of the schools are situated on steep hillsides,
some in the great pine woods, some beside the beautiful Asotin Creek.
Some of the pupils ride to school on horseback, some come in autos,
some in sleds through the deep snow, some cross the wide Snake River
every day in row boats, some are brought in by school wagons. Some live
next door and some come in from the ranch seven miles away, but the
great majority walk in the good old-fashioned way.
Among the teachers responsible for the present condition of Asotin
County schools should be mentioned the following: J. B. Jones, for
many years superintendent of schools of Asotin, when Asotin maintained
the only high school in the county. Mr. Jones served a term as county
superintendent and is now a leading banker of the county. Another
teacher whose work will never be forgotten is Miss Lillian Clemans,
now Mrs. Lillian Clemans Merchant. Mrs. Merchant was a leading teacher
in the county for many years and took a leading part in educational
matters for four years as county superintendent. J. W. Graham, now
superintendent of the Pullman, Wash., schools, but for several years
a leading educator of the county as superintendent of the Clarkston
schools. W. J. Jerome, at present superintendent of the Asotin city
schools, who has been associated with these schools and with the
educational interests of the county for eight years. Gus Lybecker has
had charge of the Anatone schools for four years and is now beginning
a fifth year as the head of a new consolidated district at that place.
C. B. Thornton has been associated with the Cloverland schools as
principal for several years and is now the county superintendent of
schools.
No resume of the schools of the county would be complete that failed
to mention the three men who for many years worked together for
the Clarkston schools: Dr. P. W. Johnson, W. E. Howard, and Elmer
E. Halsey. Dr. H. C. Fulton, G. W. Bailey, William Farrish, W. G.
Woodruff, and Kay L. Thompson served Asotin in a similar fashion for
many years, indeed some of these men put in as much as twenty years
as school board members. In every district there is one or more but
usually one central figure, who takes a vital interest in the welfare
of the children and gives unstintedly of time and talent for the
schools of the district. The author wishes that all these splendid men
could be mentioned here, for to them as much as to teachers we owe our
schools.
* * * * *
In treating of the other counties, we have devoted considerable space
to the churches. These indispensable agencies of the higher motives
and higher life have had the same general place in Asotin as in the
other counties. To some extent the same men whose names we noted in
Walla Walla went on into the newer fields. Early in the history of
Asotin City the Baptists effected an organization and erected a church.
Soon the Presbyterian, Methodist, United Brethren, and Christian
denominations became also established and maintain their church work to
the present day.
Clarkston also has a full quota of well sustained churches: Methodist,
Christian, Presbyterian, United Brethren, Church of God, Lutheran
(Norwegian), St. John's Evangelical (German), Catholic, Adventists,
Baptist, and Episcopal.
The fraternal orders are also well represented in both cities. The
first lodge in the county was Hope Lodge, I. O. O. F., at Anatone.
The Good Templars seem to have been pioneers in lodge organization
in Asotin City, dating to 1885. The first Odd Fellow lodge was known
as Riverside Lodge No. 41, and was organized in 1886. Other lodges
followed, and at the present date we find the following represented:
I. O. O. F.; Woodmen of the World; Women of Woodcraft; Grand Army of
the Republic; Sons of Veterans; Women's Relief Corps; Modern Woodmen;
Rebekahs; United Artisans; Stootki Tribe of Red Men; Masonic.
In Clarkston the orders are the Knights of Pythias, Masons, Odd
Fellows, Yeomen, Woodmen of the World, and Modern Woodmen.
[Illustration: PAROCHIAL SCHOOL, CLARKSTON]
Many more interesting and valuable details of the history and present
status of this youngest of our four counties might be given here, did
space allow. But we must be content to close with further reference
to that indispensable aid to the historical writer, and that is the
newspaper. We have already spoken of the _Sentinel_ of Asotin and
have made our acknowledgments for much valuable data derived from it.
Clarkston also has a weekly paper, the _Clarkston Republican_. The
_Vinelander_, however, was the first paper at that point, appearing
in 1898, published by Messrs. Leach, Henshaw and Lewis. The year
following C. S. Florence, now of Asotin, acquired the paper and
published it for a year, changing the name to the _Vineland Journal_.
At the opening of 1900, Messrs. Lewis and Leach, having retired from
their pioneer venture, undertook another by the publication of the
_Clarkston Chronicle_. This also was short lived, being suspended
after only about five months. There was still another transient in
the field of journalism, the _River Press_, existing from July, 1903,
to April, 1904, the publisher being at first Frank Barnes, followed
by B. T. Warren, and he in turn by O. U. Hawkins. Meanwhile the
_Republican_, the only permanent newspaper at Clarkston, had been
launched in January, 1901, by L. A. Woodward. After a few unimportant
shiftings, by which Mr. Woodward retired and again resumed possession,
the _Republican_ in 1904 passed into the possession of Messrs. Willis,
Murdock, and Garver. Mr. A. J. Garver became and still continues to
be the chief owner. The managing editor at the present date is W. A.
Wyatt, and the paper is now known as the _Clarkston Republic_.
We leave this jewel of a county, with her sister jewels, at this stage
of our story, anticipating for her great advances in the developments
which are certain to accrue to the world, and particularly to the
Pacific Northwest in the better days which are bound to succeed the
insanity and destructiveness of the present unholy war which racks the
earth.
CHAPTER V
PIONEER REMINISCENCES
This is a chapter of remembrances. The author has felt that the
work would be incomplete without some space devoted to the personal
experiences of those who made the history. Out of the vast amount of
matter which might be available he has selected such narrations as
cover the widest range and afford the greatest variety.
Some of these selections are of early letters, the writers of which
have long since passed away. A few were prepared originally for the
Inland Empire Pioneer Association. The larger number have been written
especially for this work by those who are still actively engaged
in the affairs of the community. It is with the belief that this
collection of actual experiences and observations will constitute a
chapter of present interest to the pioneers and will be a source of
ever-increasing pleasure and instruction to their descendants, that the
author gives it a place as the crowning feature of the book.
We first incorporate a letter by Doctor Whitman, never published
before, significant of the life and conditions, as well as the habit
of thought and mode of expression of that first stage in the history
of Old Walla Walla. Doctor Whitman's letter gives a vivid view of the
variety of interests with which he was concerned. It is as follows:
Waiilatpu, September 29, 1845.
Rev. Elkanah Walker.
Dear Brother: I take a moment only to write as Mr. Eells is soon to
be off.
The first thing I have to say is, will you send Cyrus here to school
this winter in case we have one, which we expect we may? I. W.
Gilbert, formerly my day and Sabbath School scholar, has come up from
the Willamet and will be likely to winter here, and most likely we
may employ him to teach.
If you send you may do well to come this way as you go to Lapwai [Mr.
Walker was located at Tshimakain in the Spokane country] and leave
Cyrus here.
Few of the immigrants call on us.
Four hundred and fifty wagons passed Fort Hall, but from seventy to
one hundred went to California and one hundred left the trail at
Malade to go to Waskopum. As they are so early they have no great
need of provisions short of The Dalles. Most are now passed.
Mr. Eells can tell you about Mr. Green's letter to me. We can now
have little hope of a reinforcement. I do not think it best for me to
say anything in relation to the subject hinted at in your first, but
may at another time.
I am trying to burn some coal [charcoal] in order to have a little
work done in the shop. I hope also to get a millwright for a few days
to set the sawmill at work.
We would like scholars enough to take some of our time, the more the
better. Mrs. Whitman is anxious also and more than willing to have as
many as possible.
With esteem and expectation of seeing you and letting you have a
first rate article of corn meal, with our united compliments to you
all.
Yours truly,
MARCUS WHITMAN.
A letter of an earlier date than that of Doctor Whitman, by one of the
immigrants of 1843, is of great interest for a number of reasons. We
give it here as containing the spirit of that first genuine American
immigration, the one that sealed the American possession of Oregon.
Waiilatpu, October 27, 1843.
Jesse Looney to John C. Bond,
Greenbush, Warren County, Ill.
Dear Sir: I embrace the opportunity of writing to you from this far
western country afforded me by the return of Lieutenant Fremont to
the States this winter. He thinks he will be at Independence, Mo., by
January next, which will be in time for those who intend coming next
season to this country to get some information about the necessary
preparations to be ready for the journey.
It is a long and tiresome trip from the States to this country,
but the company of emigrants came through safely this season to
the number of 1000 persons with something over 100 wagons to this
place, which is 250 miles east of the Willamet Valley, and, with the
exception of myself and a few others, have all gone on down there,
intending to go through this winter if possible. About half of them
have traded off their stock at Walla Walla, twenty-five miles below
here [he means the Hudson's Bay fort] and are going by water. The
balance went on by land to the Methodist Mission, 175 miles below
this, intending to take to the water there.
I have stopped here in the Walla Walla Valley to spend the winter,
in order to save my stock. This is a fine valley of land, excellent
water, good climate, and the finest kind of pine timber on the
surrounding mountains, and above all a good range for stock both
summer and winter. The Indians are friendly and have plenty of grain
and potatoes, and a good many hogs and cattle. The missionaries
at this and other missions have raised fine crops of wheat, corn,
potatoes, etc., so that provisions can be procured here upon as good
or better terms than in the lower settlements at present. Cattle are
valuable here, especially American cattle. Things induced me to stop
here for the winter, save my stock and take them down in the spring.
In preparing for the journey of Rocky Mountains, you cannot be too
particular in choice of a wagon. It should be strong in every part
and yet it should not be very heavy. The large size, two-horse Yankee
wagons are the most substantial wagons I have seen for this trip.
You should haul nothing but your clothing, bedding and provisions.
Goods are cheaper here than in the States. Let your main load be
provisions--flour and bacon. Put in about as much loading ing as
one yoke of cattle can draw handily, and then put on three good yoke
of cattle and take an extra yoke for change in case of failure from
lameness or sore necks, and you can come without any difficulty. The
road is good, much better than we had expected, but is long. Bring
all the loose cattle you can, especially milk cows and heifers. Do
not attempt to bring calves. They will not come through, and by
losing them you will be in danger of losing their mothers.
I cannot urge you too strongly to be sure to bring plenty of
provisions; don't depend on the game you may get. You may get some
and you may not. It is uncertain. We were about five months on the
way to this place, and I had plenty of flour, etc., to do me, but
most of the company were out long before they got here, and there is
little or nothing in the way of provisions to be had at the forts
on the way. I would advise you to lay in plenty for at least five
months, for if you get out on the way you will have trouble to get
any till you get here. I would advise you to start as soon as the
grass will admit. We might have started near a month sooner than we
did, and then would have been here in time to have gone through with
our cattle this winter. We left Independence, Mo., the 22d of May and
we are just about a month too late. Myself and family were all sick
when we left and continued till we left Blue River, and the rain and
wind, but when we reached the highlands along the Platte we began
to mend. My health is better than for years, and so far as I have
seen this country I think it is very healthy. There was five or six
deaths on the road, some by sickness and some by accident, and there
were eight or ten births. Upon the whole we fared much better than
we expected. We had no interruptions from the Indians. Our greatest
difficulty was in crossing rivers. Mrs. L. says prepare with good
strong clothing or sage brush will strip you.
This shrub is very plenty, and was hard on our teams, especially
those that went before, but it will not be so bad on those that come
next year, for we have left a plain, well beaten road all the way. I
will have a better opportunity of giving you accounts of this country
next spring, and I want you to write the first chance and to direct
to the settlement of Willamet.
So no more, but remain,
Your brother till death,
JESSE LOONEY.
In connection with these letters dealing with the mission at Waiilatpu
and the immigration of 1843, we wish to include two of much interest,
not hitherto published, both dealing with Doctor Whitman. These are
letters of much later date than the preceding, though pertaining to the
times of the mission.
The first of these is by Perrin Whitman to W. H. Gray. Perrin Whitman
lived many years at Lewiston and was well known in all that region.
Letter from Perrin Whitman to W. H. Gray:
Lapwai Station, October 11, 1880.
About the 20th of April, 1843, I left Rushville, Yates County, N. Y.,
with Dr. Marcus Whitman (my uncle) for Oregon. I distinctly remember
of his telling his mother and friends that his visit with them would
be necessarily short, as he had on his way east from Oregon, notified
all who were desirous of emigrating to Oregon to rendezvous at
Westport and Independence, Mo., and that he would pilot them with
their wagons across the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River. The
immigration, consisting of about one hundred and twenty wagons, left
the Missouri line about the last of May and reached Waiilatpu (Walla
Walla Valley) about the 5th of the following September.
The doctor piloted them the whole distance, as he had promised to do.
Gen. J. C. Fremont (at that time a lieutenant) arrived at Waiilatpu
with his Government train across the plains a few weeks after the
arrival of our immigration.
Doctor Whitman's trip east in the winter of 1842 and '43 was for the
double purpose of bringing the immigration across the plains, also
prevent, if possible, the trading off of this northwest coast to
the British Government. I learned from him that the Mission Board
censured him in strong terms for having left his missionary duty
and engaged in another so foreign from the one they had sent him to
perform. While crossing the plains I repeatedly heard the doctor
express himself as being very anxious to succeed in opening a wagon
road across the continent to the Columbia River, and thereby stay, if
not entirely prevent, the trade of this northwest coast, then pending
between the United States and the British Government.
In after years the doctor with much pride and satisfaction reverted
to his success in bringing the immigration across the plains and
thought it one of the means of saving Oregon to his Government. I
remained with him continuously till August, 1847, when he sent me to
The Dalles. He was murdered the following November.
The above statement is correct and true, so help me God.
P. B. WHITMAN.
The next letter is from Judge O. S. Pratt, the territorial judge
who presided at the trial of the Indians implicated in the Whitman
massacre. It was addressed to Mrs. Catherine Sager Pringle, one of the
adopted children of Doctor Whitman, evidently in response to inquiries
for information.
While the facts which it states might be known from other sources, it
is of much interest as a summary of the permanent views of Judge Pratt
upon the life and character of Doctor Whitman.
San Francisco, March 4, 1882.
Dear Madam: In my reply to your letter of January 20th last, I wrote
you I thought the late Doctor Whitman was born in Ontario County, N.
Y. I said I would soon know as I had just written to a friend who had
the means of knowing the doctor's birthplace and would be likely to
send me exact information on the subject. In reply to a letter, which
I caused to be written to Mrs. Henry F. Wisewell, residing at Naples
in Ontario County, N. Y., who is the doctor's sister and the only
surviving member of his father's family, I received today, under date
of February 22, 1882, an answer dictated by her, stating that "Marcus
Whitman was born in Rushville, Ontario County, N. Y., September 4,
1802--the county then being very wild and new. In infancy he narrowly
escaped death by burning, his cradle having taken fire from a brand
falling out of the fireplace, when left alone. His father died in
April, 1810; the same fall the son was sent to Plainfield, Mass., to
live with his grandparents. He then attended school and returned to
Rushville when eighteen years old. At the latter place he studied
medicine and received a diploma at the Fairfield (N. Y.) Medical
College. He thereafter practiced medicine a short time in Canada,
and afterwards for a few years near his native place. The Rev. Mr.
Parker of Ithaca, N. Y., while preaching in the interior of that
state on behalf of the Northwestern Indians, became acquainted with
Doctor Whitman; and the latter having become deeply interested in
Mr. Parker's efforts, first went with him to explore Oregon in the
spring of 1835, and returned to his native village about Christmas of
the same year, bringing with him two Indian boys. They were sent to
school and learned rapidly and were soon able to read well and write
legibly.
"In February, 1836, the doctor married Miss Narcissa Prentiss, a
resident of Prattsburg, N. Y., and not far from his native village,
who, with the doctor and the Rev. and Mrs. Spalding and the Indian
boys, left April, 1836, for Oregon, their mission field, traveling
west of the Mississippi, with pack horses and mules. Mrs. Whitman and
Mrs. Spalding are understood to have been the first white women who
ever crossed the Rocky Mountains. The doctor thereafter returned but
once, starting October 7, 1842, and reached New York April 2, 1843,
having suffered many hardships by the way, sleeping for the most part
on the ground, and being at one time without food five days, and in
his greatest extremity was compelled to kill his dogs to sustain
life. From New York, before visiting his family, he hurried to
Washington on his mission with the Government, which was to secure,
if possible, Oregon to the United States. Not long afterwards he
returned to his home west of the Rocky Mountains, and was, as is well
known, massacred with his wife and others by the Indians, November
29, 1847."
I trust the foregoing, which may rightly be treated as authentic,
will leave no uncertainty as to the birthplace and some of the
important facts connected with the history of the late Doctor
Whitman's useful life.
Respectfully yours,
O. S. PRATT.
Turning now from the letters to special contributions we will first
present one dealing with the Cayuse war, following the great tragedy at
Waiilatpu. This contains the personal experience of W. W. Walter, an
immigrant to the Walla Walla country of 1859. He lived many years near
Prescott. This article was written from his dictation by his daughter,
Mrs. Pettyjohn.
CAYUSE INDIAN WAR
By W. W. Walter
In December, 1847, word reached the settlements in Oregon that the
Cayuse Indians had killed Doctor Whitman and wife and twelve others.
A runner carried the word to Vancouver, and a messenger was at once
dispatched to Oregon City to Governor Abernethy, while Peter Skeen
Ogden, factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, with a small company of
Hudson's Bay men set out at once for the scene of the massacre--where
he accomplished his wonderful work of ransoming the white captives held
by the Indians.
"No other power on earth," says Joe Meek, the American, "could have
rescued those prisoners from the hands of the Indians." And no man
better than Mr. Meek understood the Indian character, or the Hudson's
Bay Company's power over them.
The Oregon Legislature was in session when the message from Vancouver
arrived, telling of the massacre. A call was made at once for fifty
riflemen to proceed at once to The Dalles--to guard the settlements
below from an invasion of the Indians. This company was known as the
"First Oregon Riflemen."
Word came that the Cayuse Indians were coming to kill all the settlers
in Oregon, and it was deemed best to meet the hostiles on their own
ground.
After the first fifty men had started for The Dalles, five companies of
volunteers were organized. I went from Tualatin County (now Washington)
in Capt. Lawrence Hall's company of volunteers--every man furnishing
his own horse and equipment--every one who could contribute a gun, or a
little powder and lead--that was the way we got our munitions of war.
We rendezvoused at Portland, awaiting marching orders, which were
given about January 1, 1848. We were in Portland a week or more, and I
remember myself and some other lads made a ride back to the Plains to
attend a dance--Christmas week.
About January 1, 1848, we started for the Cayuse Country, three hundred
men, all told--we marched across the country and ferried over the
Columbia at Vancouver. There the Hudson's Bay Company let us have a
cannon, and it was an elephant on our hands.
From Vancouver we traveled up the north side of the Columbia (dragging
that old cannon along) to a place above the Cascades where we built a
ferry boat and crossed the river again to the south side and followed
up the trails to the Dalles. We still kept our cannon, making portages
with it, and at the Dalles mounted the thing on a wagon. The fifty
men stationed there to hold the Mission were greatly annoyed by the
Indians, and just after we arrived a report was brought in that there
were hostile Indians up the Deschutes River, and two of our men on
horse guard were decoyed by the Indians and killed. It happened thus:
The Indians stripped their horses and let them graze near the guards,
giving the impression they were loose horses. Our men thought them
their own horses and went after them, when the Indians, who were
concealed in the grass with ropes on their horses, fired and killed the
two men. Those were the first men killed in the war.
So when we heard of the Indians up the Deschutes we were anxious for a
fight and started for them. The battleground was at the mouth of Tygh
Creek on the ridge where we, as emigrants, had come down the Deschutes
hill two years before. We met the Indians early in the morning. The
first we knew of their whereabouts we saw them formed in line on the
front of a high hill. To reach them we had to climb that hill, facing
their fire. We left our horses and took it afoot up that hill, but they
did not stand long--we soon routed them--we had but one man wounded.
We followed up with continuous firing on both sides--then we had our
horses brought up and gave chase. As the country was level on top the
hill we followed them five or six miles--they outstripped us, as they
had splendid fresh horses; we skirmished all that day--camped on the
hill at night, then the next day followed on until we reached their
deserted camp. There we found a very old and feeble Indian man and
woman--too old to travel. They were deserted and alone, with a little
pile of food lying by them. They refused to talk, so we learned nothing
from them--so we left them undisturbed and returned to the Dalles,
where we fitted up some old emigrant wagons and got some emigrant
cattle and Mission cattle, and made up a train of wagons to haul what
little supplies we had with us. We now started for the upper country,
following the old emigrant road.
We had our next encounter with the Indians at Wells Springs between
Willow Creek and Butter Creek. We camped there for the night--in
the morning we had just gotten out of camp when we began to see
Indians--Indians in every direction, in squads of ten and fifty, just
coming thick. There were enough of them to eat up our little band of
three hundred. We went only about a mile and a half when Col. Gilliam
called a halt and we began preparations for a fight.
It was estimated over one thousand Indians were on the ground. A party
of chiefs came out and called for a talk. Col. Gilliam, Tom McKay,
Charlie McKay and Mungo, the interpreter, went out to meet them. When
they met it was learned there were Indians from all the northern
tribes besides the Cayuses. There were Coeur d'Alenes, Flatheads, Pend
d'Oreilles and Spokanes.
The Cayuses had sent runners to all the different tribes telling them
the Whites in Oregon had killed all the Catholics and Hudson's Bay men
who were friends to these Northern Indians--they told them they had
killed Tom McKay, their best friend, and were now coming to kill them
and take their country. But when an old chief met the commission, he
saw and recognized old Tom McKay and knew then they had been deceived
and asked an explanation.
When Tom McKay, who was intimately acquainted with those northern
Indians, and whose influence over them exceeded that of any other
man in the country, told them the true story and that they were only
up there to punish the murderers of Dr. Whitman and people, the old
Flathead chief promised to take no part and to draw off all except the
Cayuses. When the haughty Cayuse chief, named Grey Eagle, heard this he
was so enraged he turned on McKay and said, "I'll kill you, Tom McKay,"
and drew his gun to fire, but McKay was too quick for him and fired
first, killing the chief.
Grey Eagle was a great medicine man, and had boasted he could swallow
all the bullets fired at him and McKay shot him in the mouth. As the
Indians turned to run, Charlie McKay shot Five Crows, breaking his
arm, but he escaped. It will be remembered he was the Indian who held
captive a girl from the Mission. Five Crows, however, shot the powder
horn off McKay, so you can see they were in pretty close quarters.
We boys gave McKay great credit for the service he done us--for our
little band of three hundred looked pretty small compared with the foe.
Now, the battle was fairly on. The Northern Indians drew off on a hill
and the Cayuses made a dash on us, about six hundred strong, all well
mounted, riding in a circle and firing whenever a chance came. The
Indians never left their horses--if they dismounted, the horse was
fastened to the rider. When an Indian was killed we would always find
the horse standing by his fallen rider, usually tied by the hair rope
to his wrist.
(The horse rode by Grey Eagle was a beautiful gray, and McKay's son
Alec rode him many years.) The fight lasted the whole day long--that
cannon that had caused so much vexation of spirit was of but little
use, as the Indians scattered so--it was fired a few times at a squad
of Indians at long range--it served more to terrorize them than to
kill, as it made a tremendous noise and they no doubt thought it great
medicine. It was an impressive sight to see those hundreds of Northern
Indians, splendidly mounted and armed after the Indian fashion, sitting
on their horses at one side all day long, watching the progress of the
fight. What a picture that would have made!
We camped that night on the battleground, but the next morning the
Indians were gone. I think neither side could claim a victory. As we
traveled that day Indians kept in sight all day, but did not interfere
with us until we reached the Mission at Waiilatpu, where we performed
the sad duty of gathering up the remains of the martyrs and burying
them. We found parts of bodies lying around, scattered about. We found
a skull with a tomahawk wound in it--we supposed it was that of Mrs.
Whitman. We also found locks of her beautiful yellow hair in the yard.
It was taken to Oregon City and placed among the Oregon State Documents.
We made a sort of stockade by building a wall breast high of adobe from
the old buildings--also built a corral for the horses by placing rails
end in the ground, and corraled the horses every night and guarded them
by day. We slaughtered what cattle we could find and jerked the meat
so we would have supplies in case we were corraled by the Indians. We
subsisted on Indian and Mission cattle--no bread.
After getting settled in camp, parts of two companies, myself one of
the number, escorted Joe Meek and his party to the snow line of the
Blue Mountains as he started on his famous trip across the continent
at midwinter, as an agent from Oregon, to ask protection of the United
States Government for the suffering settlers in the wilds of Oregon. He
was accompanied by Squire Ebberts and Nat Bowman, both mountain men,
and three others. So we left the little party to pursue their journey
amid untold perils while we returned to Fort Waters, as the Mission
was now called. This was in February. About the first of March about
eighty-five or ninety men were called to go out on a raid to gather
up what cattle we could and learn what we could of the whereabouts
of the hostiles. My company went, as we were the best mounted men in
the command. Not thinking to be gone long, we rode light and took no
provisions.
We traveled what was long known as the Nez Perces trails, cross the
country to Copeii, where we were met by two friendly Indians. They told
as the Cayuses were camped at the mouth of Tucanon. Our interpreter,
Mungo, said he could pilot us there. We concluded to hunt them up.
So at dark we started going down Copeii, then across the country to
Tucanon to where Starbuck now is. There we crossed and followed down
the creek, reaching the encampment just at break of day. Just as we
crossed Tucanon we ran onto an Indian guard, but he got away and ran to
camp--so when we got near camp two Indians came out with a white flag.
I will state here that runners had been sent with word that if friendly
Indians would raise a flag of truce they would not be molested, as we
were only seeking to punish the Cayuses. So when they sent out the flag
and asked for a talk, Col. Gilliam went forward. They claimed to be
Palouses and friendly to the Whites. Said the Cayuses had gone across
Snake River, but had left lots of stock behind which they would turn
over to the volunteers, and that they would go out and gather them in
for us. So they began running in horses and cattle, we helping--and
all went merrily along. However, we soon noticed the lodges going down
as by magic and the boys on the hill saw them busily ferrying their
families over the river, and asked why they were moving. They said
their women were afraid of the Whites and wished to go. So by their
cunning manoeuvres they had detained us half a day, and we, without
any food since the early morning before, were beginning to feel pretty
hungry.
When they had delivered up all the stock, Col. Gilliam said we would
drive out to grass and camp and eat. So we started out, but soon
discovered we had been duped the worst way. They were the Cayuses--even
the real murderers were there, and they were after us. Now there was
no thought of eating. Indians on every side, yelling like demons,
calling us women--afraid to fight. It was a running fight all day long
and we were still holding the stock at night--in McKay Hollow, where
we strung along the little hollow seeking shelter from the Indians by
hiding behind the banks. We did not dare kindle a fire. On examination
it was found thirty volunteers were wounded, but not dangerously. Our
ammunition was about exhausted and we were half famished.
The older men and officers evidently realized we were in a pretty
serious predicament, but we young boys had no idea of the danger we
were in, not as I see it now. During the night Gilliam ordered the
stock turned loose--as we were now about out of ammunition he hoped by
turning the stock loose to get rid of the Indians. The boys objected
to that move, but instead of the Indians leaving us that only renewed
their courage. They thought we were giving up, and attacked us more
savagely than ever. We were pretty well hidden and in no immediate
danger, so we saved our ammunition and only fired when sure of an
Indian--they frequently came in range when circling around us. In the
morning they still hung on our heels. As we started out they followed
us on--calling to Mungo repeatedly, asking why we did not stop to
fight, while he abused them in return.
The Indians would drop behind until a bunch of us were a distance from
the command, then make a dash, trying to cut us off, and we surely
were not cautious. Tom Cornelius, Pete Engart and myself were a little
behind when an Indian shot Engart in the calf of the leg. He fell from
his horse, saying he was killed. Tom and I jumped from our horses and
shook him up and told him he was not hurt--he gave up. We finally threw
him up astride his horse--we cursed him and told him to ride--_and he
rode_. By this time the Indians were on us and the boys ahead had not
missed us. I tell you we made a race for it, one of us on each side of
the wounded man, but we made it.
Another time that day Mungo's horse was shot from under him. Tom
Cornelius and I saw him fall and ran back to him. He had stopped to
take his saddle--we were just in time, as the Indians were coming
pell-mell, shouting, "We've got Mungo." I took Mungo behind me and Tom
took his saddle and away we went. This was the way we were at it all
the way, some one in close quarters all the time.
Mungo told the Cayuses we would fight when we reached the Touchet and
got water. Then began the race for the first stand at the Touchet.
The Indians beat us on the lower side, but we headed them off above
the ford. Some Indians hid in the brush and shot at our men as they
passed on the trail. We were trying to get our wounded men across, but
the Indians were killing horses and men. I was in the company up the
creek. When we came down, Col. Gilliam told Lieut. Engart to rout those
ambushed Indians. Engart called for volunteers to go in after them. I
was one with twenty others. We started for the hiding place, skirting
along the brush, expecting any minute to run on them. When we did find
them, not more than five or six of us were together in the lead, and
the Indians were firing at another squad of men some distance away--we
were within thirty feet of them. I fired and hit my Indian just as he
turned to run, striking him in the back of the head. He fell and I
stepped back behind a bush to reload, when another man ran in and stood
in my place; as he did so the Indian rolled over and fired at him,
killing him. Just then Nate Olney, an old Indian fighter, ran in with
a tomahawk and made a good Indian of him. He scalped him and I carried
the grewsome trophy at my saddle horn when I returned home. We killed
about sixty Indians there. It was hard to make an estimate of how many,
as they carried their dead away unless too hard pressed.
All during this battle the chief sat on his horse on the rocky point
just above Bolles Junction [the present junction] and gave command
and encouragement in a loud and stentorian voice. He could be heard
for miles. Finally a bullet sped his way and he was killed--and he
being the medicine man, the battle ceased and a council was called.
We were now across the Touchet. We were carrying our wounded men on
litters made by stretching blankets on willow poles--taking turns
carrying--that was a hard job. As we began to climb the hill beyond
the Touchet we heard the Indians let up their death-wail--they were
gathered together on those low hills just north the Bolles Junction
depot.
We traveled on to Dry Creek that day; there we went into camp and
spying some Indian horses on the prairie, myself with some others ran
in a bunch, near some brush where some of our men were hidden, and
as they passed, shot two. That was the first horse meat I had tried
to eat, but it made me sick--though they were young unbroken horses.
I was sure they tasted of the saddle blanket--suggestion, I suppose.
When we woke next morning there was four or five inches of snow on our
blankets--we had no tents.
A runner had been sent on to the Mission and a wagon sent out for our
wounded men. My bunkie and I got up early, mounted our horses and rode
on to the Mission that morning. The boys soon were preparing provisions
for the famishing troops, but after starving so long the smell of food
cooking made me sick and I could not eat until the next morning. Some
of the boys were so ravenous they had to be restrained or they would
have killed themselves eating.
Now we laid around camp, getting into mischief, and I learned to smoke.
The only regular rations issued us was tobacco--and the smokers seemed
to take such comfort in the pipe, I too indulged.
When we came into the Indian country Gilliam told us we could have
any Indian horses we captured. I was pretty handy with a rope and got
away with three head from the battle at the Touchet. One, a fine horse
rode by a chief, I was particularly proud of. A big burly Dutchman in
another company also coveted that horse, so one morning he put his
rope on him and led him into camp. I at once claimed the horse and
proceeded to make good my claim. He resisted and we got into a "scrap";
he had friends, so had I. All took sides--it was decided we fight for
possession; the winner to get him. That suited me all right--so at it
we went. Men say it was a hard fight, but I won and took the horse to
lead him off, when an under officer, a friend of the Dutchman, stepped
up and took hold of the rope, saying, "I'll take this horse." I was
only a boy of nineteen years, but I did not intend to give up the horse
without a struggle, and was considering the consequences of hitting an
officer when Colonel Gilliam walked unobserved into the ring, cut the
rope behind the officer's hand, handed the rope to me and walked away
without a word. I tell you I was the proudest boy in that camp--and
after the colonel was gone I could not resist crowing at the Dutchman
in true boy fashion. This is just an example of how justice was meted
out in the army of volunteers.
In the spring about two hundred recruits came. We now numbered about
five hundred men. Then a party set out for north of Snake River to hunt
Indians. I was with the company. We crossed the Snake at the mouth of
the Palouse--we made a camp at Little Falls--were at Big Lake on Cow
Creek and all over the upper country, but failed to find any number of
Indians. We fired a few shots at stragglers now and then, but had no
regular engagement. The Cayuse warriors had scattered about among other
tribes, many going over the mountains to wait until the soldiers left
the country.
A detachment of men was sent to Walker's Mission, called Tshimakain,
where Walker and Eells and their families were located as missionaries
among the Spokanes. We got the families and brought them back with
us. We came back across country, crossing Snake River at the mouth of
Alpowa Creek to an Indian encampment known as Red Wolf's Land--then
we returned to Waiilatpu. This expedition went out the first of May.
Sometime in June we began our return trip to Oregon, having been out
about six months.
I remember while camped in the Umatilla country I was breaking an
Indian horse to ride--and he would throw himself whenever I mounted. I
had become pretty mad at his persistence in lying down, so concluded to
tie him down until he would be willing to stand up. I did so and left
him close to camp--but in the morning I was minus a horse--the wolves
had eaten him up. We had much to learn in those days.
On this trip Colonel Gilliam was killed accidentally. In pulling a gun
from a wagon it caught in a rope and was discharged, killing him. He
was a good man and a good officer, well liked by all his men, as he was
a friend to all.
We arrived at Oregon City a few days before the Fourth of July. The
Governor rode out and reviewed the troops, as we were on parade. Every
man had his horse decked out in Indian trappings and we were as wild as
a band of Indians. Crowds of people had gathered to welcome us home.
The Governor made us a short talk and dismissed us. Thus ended the
organization of Oregon's First Mounted Volunteers--we all scattered out
to our homes.--Thus ends Mr. Walter's article.
* * * * *
Another of the pioneers of '59 was W. S. Gilliam, son of the Colonel
Gilliam referred to in Mr. Walter's article. Mr. Gilliam was one of the
most honored and useful of Walla Walla's pioneers. A number of years
ago he prepared a contribution for the Pioneer Association which we are
presenting here. We are making selections on account of the length of
the article. The first pertains to the journey across the plains in
1844, and gives a view of some of the interesting events there:
"The next morning a sight opened up to us that can never be seen again
by mortal man. As far as the eye could reach up the valley of the
South Platte and as far on the bluffs as we could see was black with
buffaloes. The quantity of the buffaloes was one thing that the early
travelers could not exaggerate.
"Under the guidance of Mr. Sublette we struck across the country from
the last mentioned camp to the North Platte. In the course of the
day we descried a large band of buffaloes under full headway, making
directly for the train. We hastily gathered our guns and put ourselves
in position, and as soon as the head of the herd came in shooting
distance we commenced firing on them and succeeded as we thought,
luckily, in turning them around the rear of the train. I think I may
safely say that while we were in the buffalo country we were hardly
ever out of sight of the animals.
"We struck the North Platte the next day and traveled up the stream
most of the way to Fort Laramie, where we laid by a day. We met Mr.
Joseph Walker here, who was a noted mountaineer and also an old friend
of my father's. He happened to be going our way as far as Fort Bridger
and made a very acceptable guide for us.
"The day we laid by I was taken with a very violent fever and remember
but little that happened till we got to Sweet Water, where I became
convalescent. I remember seeing Independence Rock, covered with names
innumerable, and the Devil's Gate, where the river had cut its way
through a hill, leaving perpendicular banks perhaps a hundred feet high
and a gorge not any wider than the stream.
"We followed up Sweet Water several days to a point where we left it
to our right and took into the South Pass across the Rocky Mountains.
After a moderate day's travel we camped at the Pacific Springs, the
first water that we had encountered that flowed westward. I remember
that we felt quite jubilant over the affair and thought that this was
quite a circumstance in our journey. In passing over the country from
here to Fort Bridger we crossed the two Sandies, Green River, and Ham's
Fork. We stopped a day at the fort and next day, it being the first day
of September, we started a northerly course across the country to Bear
River. We followed down this stream to the Soda Springs, which was a
great wonder to us. On an area of perhaps one hundred acres hundreds of
springs boiled up, many in the bed of the river."
Following this is an estimate of Captain Grant, the Hudson's Bay
commandant at Fort Hall. As the character of Captain Grant has been the
subject of controversy, the views of Mr. Gilliam have much interest:
"We camped here and next morning when we started we left the river,
and after traveling some sixty or seventy miles we reached Fort Hall,
then a Hudson's Bay Company trading post, where Mr. Grant was chief
factor. Here a circumstance occurred that has caused me through life
to regard Grant as a bad hearted man. Peter H. Burnett, a noted man
of the previous emigration, had written a letter of instruction and
encouragement and sent it to Grant with instructions that he should
read it to the emigrants when they reached Fort Hall. When we arrived
there the letter was called for and Grant read it to us. It was a
very welcome note, giving us useful instructions about the route and
strong encouragement about the country we were going to. But you
can hardly conceive of the barrels of cold water he poured onto Mr.
Burnett's words of encouragement. The circumstances were such that such
a proceeding was of no profit or benefit to him or the company he was
serving, for it was next to impossible for us to turn back. We were
from the very nature of our situation compelled to go ahead, and he
well knew that his discouragement could avail nothing towards stopping
us. I have never been able to regard him as a good man."
A retrospect by Mr. Gilliam, and an account of settlement in the
Willamette Valley contains matter of interest:
"It may be well enough to take a retrospect of things as they were then
and compare them with things as they are now. We traveled through the
territory that now constitutes the states of Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming,
Utah, Idaho and well through Oregon, and in all this vast region we
did not find one single home, unless you, by a strained construction,
call a mission or trading post a home. There were a thousand miles of
this journey, which required six months to perform it. We stood guard
to protect our lives and property from hostile Indians. This being the
year that Polk was elected president, the earliest news that we got of
it was in July following, and we considered ourselves rather fortunate
in getting it thus early; it having come by ship, when in fact we did
not expect to get it until the arrival of the emigrants in the fall.
When a presidential election occurs now if we do not get the news the
next day we feel that we are unfortunate in being deprived of the news
so long.
"I took my first trip back three years ago. I was three days in making
it, and on the route found two large cities, Salt Lake and Denver, and
seemingly happy homes everywhere, and made the trip in a comfortable
manner that was undreamed of in those early days.
"Well, to return. We wintered where the town of Cornelius now stands,
about eighty rods south of the depot, with Messrs. Waters and Emerick,
who were keeping batch at that time. The winter was very mild, which
impressed us very favorably with the climate.
"In February father went up the country to select a land claim. I think
his was the first claim taken south of the Rickreall. The town of
Dallas stands on part of it. He came back with a glowing account of the
country he had seen and particularly of the place that he had selected
for a home. So we got ready and as early in March as traveling was good
we started for our new home. We arrived there the 16th of March, it
being Sunday. The whole country was a natural park, and, combined with
the ideal spring day that we reached there, made it seem to me like
dreamland.
"We went to work in good earnest building a log cabin, but before we
could complete it we were overtaken by the equinoctial storm, which
gave us some very serious discomfort. The next thing to do was to put
in some garden and sow some wheat. Will say that nature gave us a
bountiful yield in both field and garden.
"During this season we suffered some privations in food. For instance,
at times we had to substitute boiled wheat for bread. It is hardly
necessary to say that we did not do this from choice, but having
plenty of wild meat, milk and butter, we could have a meal that would
hardly pass muster now, but I can assure you that a person would be
a long time starving to death on it. We never had any shortage of
breadstuffs after the first season, for there was a grist-mill built in
the immediate neighborhood the next year, where we could get flour any
time."
Mr. Gilliam's brief reference to Dr. Whitman is of special value:
"A large share of the immigrants who wintered at Dr. Whitman's during
the season settled in our immediate neighborhood and I learned a great
deal about the Doctor's character from them. It seemed as if he had
made a deep impression on them, for they talked a great deal about him,
and from their talk I came to have a high regard for him. They told me
that he would come home from Wallula, a distance of twenty-five miles,
before breakfast, or if necessary go up to where they were building
the sawmill, a distance of eighteen miles, before breakfast. In fact,
his energy seemed to have no bounds and no obstacle with him seemed
insurmountable. It was this summer of 1845 that he visited Willamette
Valley and while there he called on my father, and as it happened I was
away from home and therefore failed to see him, a circumstance that
I have always regretted, more especially since he has become such an
important figure in history."
The portraiture of early conditions in the Willamette, reference to his
father's death, gold discovery, and then settlement in the Walla Walla
country follow:
"The immigration of 1847 brought from Washington City father's
appointment as postal agent with instructions from the Post Office
Department concerning the same. On a recent visit with my sister at
Dallas, Ore., who has all the papers, I had the pleasure of inspecting
them anew. I found them queer reading from our standpoint.
"In the fall of 1847 father disposed of the place we settled on and
moved up the country about twelve miles and bought a place on Pedee.
This fall one of my sisters married. In the meantime some Indians
had become acquainted with us and were living in the immediate
neighborhood. They took some interest in the wedding and were very
curious to know what her husband gave for her, it being their custom to
sell their daughters into marriage. They were surprised beyond measure
when told that she was given to him.
"It was November of this year that the Whitman massacre occurred.
Father was at once notified that he was requested to take command and
of the volunteers that were to be raised to march against the hostile
Indians. He left home abruptly early in December, never to return. His
death was the heaviest blow that has ever befallen me.
"The next year was one long to be remembered in Oregon. It was the
year of the discovery of gold in California. It was late in August
that reports of the discovery began to reach Oregon. They reported the
mines to be so rich that at first they were discredited; but they were
soon confirmed in such a way as to relieve all doubts. It would be hard
to exaggerate the excitement that was raised upon the confirmation of
the news. In fact, it would be hard to excite a community in any other
way to the pitch ours was on this occasion, more especially when we
consider how small it was. Everybody that could get away dropped their
business and left. My brother-in-law and I rigged ourselves out with
a saddle horse and pack-horse apiece and started. We had to travel
through the Rogue River and Klamath countries in considerable bands to
protect ourselves against the hostile Indians, but by the time we got
to where it was dangerous we had fallen in with plenty of company, so
we had no trouble on that score. We passed through the hostile country
without being attacked or having any horses stolen. In fact, to me it
was a trip that afforded me some of the keenest kind of pleasure, new
scenery every day and some of it, Mt. Shasta, for instance, was of the
grandest kind. It was the first time I had left the parental roof.
"When we got well into the Sacramento Valley, just after we had struck
camp, an acquaintance rode into camp with his pack-horse and proceeded
to camp with us. He had a thrilling story to tell of his previous
night's experience. It seemed that the company he traveled with through
the hostile country were highly disagreeable to him, so when they
reached the Sacramento Valley, where the Indians were friendly, he tore
himself away from it and was traveling alone. During the first day of
his lone travel he bought a salmon of the Indians. When he camped that
night he cooked part of the salmon for supper and laid the balance
within a few feet of where he made his bed. After retiring, while
looking out into the increasing gloom, he saw an approaching form that
looked as large as a covered wagon. His bearship, for such it was, very
coolly and unconcernedly appropriated the remainder of the salmon and
sat down within a few feet of him and quietly ate it. After eating he
still sat there, seeming to ponder on what to do next. In the meantime
the campfire got into the dry grass and burnt towards where Mr. Bear
was sitting. When it got unpleasantly near him he slowly moved away
and disappeared. Some Indians were at the camp in the morning and were
shown the track. They assured him the best they could that he was very
fortunate in not being served up for a supper for Mr. Bear. When he
reached our camp and narrated the circumstance he remarked that he had
concluded that he would not camp alone any more.
"I went into the mines and worked with only fair success until
late next spring, when I became homesick, and not appreciating the
opportunities as I would have in later life, I returned home, where I
arrived the 16th of June, 1849.
"After resting a few days I visited a camp meeting that was in progress
near Salem. I had visited the meeting at the same grounds the year
before. I was very forcibly impressed with the difference in the dress
of the people in the two years. The first year, before California had
poured her wealth of gold into the country, the people were dressed in
very plain pioneer style, the men in buckskin pants with the balance
of the suit corresponding, the women in calicoes and muslin. But this
year it was very evident that they had freely availed themselves of the
privilege that the great quantity of gold that had found its way to
Oregon gave them to improve their attire, for in the case of the men
broadcloth had taken the place of buckskin, and in the women silks and
satins had replaced calico and gingham.
"In 1851 there was a vacancy in the sheriff's office and I was
appointed by the county commissioners to fill the vacancy. During my
incumbency, in the discharge of my duty as sheriff, it fell to my lot
to execute a death warrant by hanging a man by the name of Everman, who
had committed a very foul murder. It was not a very pleasant duty to
perform and most certainly one that I never wanted to be called on to
repeat. This was the first execution for murder in Polk County, and I
think the second in the territory, excepting the Indians that were hung
at Oregon City for the murder of Doctor Whitman and others.
"There was another circumstance that grew out of the murder case that
gave me the unenviable distinction of being the only man that ever
put up a white man at auction and sold him to the highest bidder. The
man in question was a brother of the above murderer. He was found
guilty of being accessory to the murder after the fact, which would
entitle him to a term in the penitentiary. There was no penitentiary
in the territory at that time, and the judge in sentencing him to a
term made the provision in the order that in default of there being a
penitentiary he be sold to the highest bidder for the same term that
he was sentenced to the penitentiary. Some of my lawyer friends tell
me that the judge assumed a very doubtful right in so sentencing the
culprit; but no legal move was made to invalidate the judge's order, so
the matter rested.
"The above execution occurred on the 11th of May, 1852. That year my
future wife crossed the plains and settled in the neighborhood where
I lived. After a year's acquaintance we were married and moved onto a
donation claim that I had three miles northwest of Dallas. At this time
I was engaged in cattle raising.
"We lived here until 1859, when I became disgusted with the long, wet,
dreary winters. That, coupled with the growing shortage of public
pasturage, caused us to sell and seek a country with less winter rains
and more public range. From what we could hear of the Walla Walla
country we concluded that the winter weather and range were about
what we wanted, so we at once decided to emigrate thither. In July I
gathered up the cattle and started. The journey was somewhat tedious,
a part of it being over dusty roads and the weather at times hot. I
reached Dry Creek at Mr. Aldrich's place, early in August. I bought
a man's claim just above the Aldrich place. I stayed some two weeks
getting the cattle settled on the range. I started back for the family
the first day of September, traveling with saddle-and pack-horse.
"On my way back I had the good fortune to fall in with an immigrant who
had been in Oregon and knew the locality where my land was, to sell him
my farm, and was thus relieved from being detained on that account.
"I reached home in twelve days after leaving Dry Creek and found the
folks all well. We hurriedly made arrangements for our departure to the
place that I had selected for our new home. We bundled our household
goods into a wagon, bade good-bye to our friends and started. We drove
over the country to Portland, where we put the wagon and team on the
boat and got on ourselves, and finally landed at The Dalles. From there
we took the wagon to Walla Walla, arriving at our new home the 23rd of
October.
"There was nothing there in the shape of a house but a miserable hut
that would neither protect us from the rain or cold. Therefore it was
very important to build a house at the earliest possible time. I took a
man with me into the mountains to assist me in getting out the timbers,
and put another one to hauling them as fast as we got them cut; so it
was but a few days till we had the material on the ground with which to
build a cabin. We at once put it up and finished it so as to make it
endurable for the winter.
"This was a tolerably severe winter, a great deal of snow and cold
weather; but the stock got through in good shape for the reason that
the grass was fine in the late fall, which put them in good shape to
withstand bad weather; and the country was all open so that they could
range on to the creeks and browse when the grass was covered with snow.
As to ourselves, we got along fairly well in the line of provisions,
but I can assure you we did not enjoy any delicacies. We had plenty of
bread, meat and potatoes, but as to the bread I remember that at times
I had to work for it. When the flour was low I had to take corn to a
neighbor's who had a steel hand mill, and grind it into meal. I think
any person who has ever had the experience of grinding on a hand mill,
in the matter of recollection will be like myself, that is, he will
remember it.
"When spring came, the first I did was to gather up the cattle that
had got considerably scattered. When that was attended to we went to
seeding and planting garden. The season being very favorable everything
planted grew luxuriantly. I have never since seen such a crop of
potatoes as we raised that year. We estimated the crop at 600 bushels
per acre, and I am inclined to believe that it was over rather than
under the estimate. I often hear people remark that it rains more now
than when the country was first settled. I can confidently say that
there has never been a season in which more rain fell in summer season,
with possibly the exception of 1862, than fell this season of 1860. I
heard remarked that had it not been for the peculiar nature of our soil
that readily absorbed it the crops would have been generally drowned
out. I look back upon this season as being one of the most enjoyable
of my life. The summer was all that we could want it to be. I heartily
enjoyed looking over the beautiful country, fresh from the hands of
nature and unmarred by the hands of man; everything seemed to smile.
The country became endeared to me and I have never seriously thought of
making any other place my home.
"To give an idea of how little people then in the country knew of its
value, when it was being surveyed it was talked among the people that
it was a waste of Government money to survey it, for the reason that
there was so little of it fit for settlement; and today you could not
get an acre of that land for less than forty dollars. [At present date
about a hundred and forty.] It was universally believed that all the
country was worth anything for was its grazing qualities, excepting
the low bottoms, which were known to be very productive. Everybody
who came to the country then came with the intention of raising stock
on the fine pasturage that the country afforded. Nobody came with the
intention of farming, for the reason that it was thought that a very
small part of the country would produce grain.
"In 1861 I was elected a member of the Territorial Legislature, which
I have always thought was unfortunate for me, for the reason that the
following winter was the hard winter and my presence at home would
have been very desirable and beneficial to my interests. As soon as
the legislature adjourned, although the severe weather was still in
evidence, I started at once for home. We traveled in public conveyance
as far as Monticello. We found the Columbia thoroughly frozen up and
waited a few days, hoping that there might be a breakup, but as the bad
weather continued and showed no signs of a change, Mr. Moore, a member
of the Legislature, and I concluded to start on foot for The Dalles. It
was one of the hardest trips I ever had. We traveled mostly on the ice,
but at times would take to the land, where trails were beaten between
neighbors in the snow who lived along the shore. We were fortunate
enough to find lodging every night and to procure meals when we wanted
them.
"After about a week of weary traveling we reached The Dalles, where we
got saddle horses. A Wells, Fargo & Co. messenger fell in with us here,
which swelled our company to three. We had traveled a couple of days
when my two comrades became badly afflicted with snow blindness. The
trail had been broken through the snow, but had later filled up with
fresh snow. It took the practiced eye to follow it. My comrades being
snowblinded it devolved on me to lead and break the way. The weather at
times was intensely cold, but we found lodging every night except one;
luckily for us, it happened to be one of the mildest nights we had, and
with some blankets we passed the night fairly comfortably.
"We reached Walla Walla about the last of February. The war was raging
then to such an extent and travel impeded that we brought news that was
six weeks old.
"I found my folks all well and hearty, but the destruction of our stock
was something frightful. When I looked them up later I found about ten
per cent of them alive; but being in the prime of life and enjoying
perfect health I was not discouraged.
"This season the Orofino and Florence mines poured wealth into the
country to such an extent that money was very plentiful and produce
very high. I succeeded in putting in a large lot of potatoes and
vegetables and some grain. The season being highly favorable everything
grew splendidly and produced abundantly and brought a very high price,
potatoes selling at four and one-half cents per pound and other things
in proportion; so at the end of the year I had to a large extent
retrieved the losses that I had sustained by the severity of the winter.
"Ever since I had heard so much about Doctor Whitman from the
immigrants who wintered with him in 1844, and especially after his
tragic death, I had become interested in him and in the site of his
mission, but had never visited it. In June this year I took a day for
it and got on my horse and rode to the old site. Father Eells was
occupying it then. I told him the object of my visit. He was very kind
indeed and took a great deal of pains in showing me about the place and
explaining things the best he could. He took me to the ruins of the
old adobe building and explained the plan of it and showed me the spot
where Doctor Whitman, according to reports, must have fallen. He then
took me to where the victims of the massacre were buried, and while
standing there one of us kicked the loose dirt and turned up the lower
jaw bone of one of the victims. One of the teeth in the bone was filled
with gold. We buried it as well as we could without tools and inferred
from the circumstance that they had been buried in shallow graves
or been dug up by badgers. I went home feeling that I had been well
rewarded for my ride.
"The next year, 1863, I was elected sheriff. I have nothing to report
that was unusual during my term, the usual routine of business incident
to the office and no executions for murder or anything else worth
speaking about. At the same time I was appointed deputy collector of
internal revenue under Philip D. Moore. The duties of this position
were simply collecting revenue that fell to the Government. The most
unpleasant part of my duties was my responsibility for the considerable
sums of money that I had in my possession.
"After the expiration of my term I returned to the farm and entered
into the usual humdrum routine pertaining to farm life.
"In 1869, for the first time since leaving, I took a trip to Oregon.
The election occurred the day before I started. The telegraph line
had reached Umatilla. When the boat landed there the messenger went
immediately to the telegraph office with the election news. This was
my first contact with the telegraph, and it was hard for me to realize
that while the operator was sending the dispatch at that very moment it
was being received in Portland.
"At The Dalles we met the first tourist who had come on the newly
completed transcontinental railroad to San Francisco and from thence by
steamer to Portland and from Portland by river steamers to The Dalles.
"I went to Dallas, where most of my people lived. I had a very
enjoyable visit, having been away ten years. In due time I returned
home and found the folks all well.
"My reminiscences having come down to and partly including the year
1869, the year that the transcontinental railroad was completed, I
think about this time they should lose their character as pioneer
reminiscences and thus far their interest to the public; for I think
the future historian will draw the line between those who came in an
ox-team and those who came on the railroads. So I feel that my task is
done, and when a person's work is finished it is a good time to quit."
From the reminiscences of Mr. Gilliam we turn to those of one of the
honored builders, still living in Walla Walla, F. W. Paine. As one
of the earliest business men of the region, Mr. Paine is peculiarly
qualified to give a picture of the business men and conditions in Walla
Walla in the early '60s. We feel ourselves fortunate to be able to
present this article from his pen:
BUSINESS MEN OF THE '60s
"In approaching the subject I realize my utter inability to fitly
handle even so small a quota of so large a class, which comprises men
of the most eminent minds from among whom are found the financial
geniuses to solve the most intricate problems of the world's commerce,
from among whose ranks have been chosen by their fellow countrymen men
to occupy and administer the highest offices of the nation, and the
contingent which I am about to consider, the business men of Walla
Walla, has afforded men of more than local fame, not only in their
own calling, but men as well who have been chosen from their own
sphere to fill places of honor from city councilman to United States
senator; the achievements of this class impel the conclusion that the
calling of general merchandising affords a training which adapts the
mind to the handling of large affairs. To come to my subject, as I now
recall the appearance of Main Street, the home of the business man in
the spring of 1862, as I first beheld it, it might be described as a
development of the old Indian trail along the natural elevation of
the south bank of Mill Creek, forming a dry ridge much used by the
Indians in horse racing before the whites appropriated it for the more
advanced purposes of a business street, which, by the way, established
its own azimuth which still maintains and which incidentally misses
all the cardinal points of compass. Architecturally viewed it would
seem that the earliest occupants of this street differed in their
opinions as to the established width, for at that time there was gross
irregularity in the building line, as well as ups and downs in the
sidewalks, each owner apparently deeming it his own affair, that of
fixing the line. When building his house, sidewalk, and frequently a
board awning on scantling supports, to afford a show place for his
merchandise, while in the matter of the building line 'the crooked
have been made straight, the rough places have not all been made
plain,' a few still remain perhaps to attest the tenacity of error.
With this much for outside appearances let us now step inside where we
are met by the subject of this sketch, a business man of Walla Walla,
a man approaching middle life, of good presence, well informed on the
country in general, its business prospects and opportunities, his stock
of merchandise, and his patrons, who, if stockmen, ranged from the
Cascades to the Rocky Mountains; if a packer his range was nearly as
wide, or if a miner his field covered much the same vast territory, the
magnitude of which seemed to be measurably reflected in the men who
partook of its largess, for the merchants of early Walla Walla were
of the stalwart type who rose to the occasion and occupied the field
in a creditable manner, for few of the class known in California as
'Cheap Johns,' ever tarried long in Walla Walla. They came but soon
recognized their betters and left for more congenial surroundings.
As time sped on and the country settled up business grew to be more
complex in its administering. Gold dust and gold and silver bars as
important factors in the circulating medium, gave place to gold and
silver coin, and greenbacks brought in by the immigrants of the middle
'60s were tolerated at fifty to seventy-five cents on the dollar, but
no lesser coin than a twenty-five cent piece was accepted in exchange
for merchandise and even the saloons treated anything smaller with
disdain; but the country was filling up with settlers, and as they
became fixed and permanent citizens, credits were extended, some of the
leading houses even in the early years, carrying heavy accounts with
farmers and stockmen. This necessitated the merchants' assistance in
marketing their products, thus these business houses became dealers in
wool, wheat, barley, etc., which continued for many years and proved
a substantial source of revenue which went far toward helping out the
year's profits and also encouraged investments in other lines, such as
transportation facilities, flouring mills and various manufactures, in
which the business man frequently took the lead, as he did in most of
the important doings of the day; for instance, in the matter of public
spirit a record may be found in his generous subscriptions to induce
the construction of railroads, for the building of hospitals, churches
and educational institutions, and for their maintenance, and again in
the voting of taxes for public schools and public buildings, both of
the city and county. This matter of voting taxes brings to mind that
even this early, politics was an institution to be reckoned with, but
the business man seldom sought its honors. His political creed was,
business before pleasure or politics. When election day came around
he voted his party ticket and enjoyed the diversion, so it did not
interfere with business. He seldom accepted office, and then only as
a matter of duty, but when such responsibilities were undertaken they
were discharged with fidelity to the trust imposed.
"Of his religion he took a less serious view, but his hand was ever
open to the deserving in a good cause, it mattered not from whence
the call. To illustrate, in the early days there came to this city a
man most devout, a reserved and gentle mannered man, who, finding no
church of his denomination, proceeded to build one near to the business
district. He contributed largely of his own rather limited means and
completed the building. Among the many brilliant sermons delivered from
its pulpit were some very caustic and pointed, directly aimed at the
shortcomings of the business world. He became noted for his good work,
both in and out of the pulpit, but one day his church was accidentally
burned, a total loss and no insurance. Whereupon a prominent business
man (who for himself had little use for churches) seemingly prompted by
his sense of justice, and as he said, 'a desire to see a good man get
a square deal,' took prompt action and with a subscription list headed
by a liberal sum, set against his own name, he proceeded to interview
the business places, omitting none. Everything that was operated for
money was in business to him, at least for that day, and was assessed
and collection made at the same time. When he had made the round of
Main Street, even before the ashes were cold, he had enough to build
a new church. No one asked was the money tainted, but the church was
built and much good resulted therefrom. One other instance I recall,
when a preacher who had gathered many souls into his fold, somewhat
on his merits as a good 'mixer' (this word belongs to politics, but
if the good man could say even now he would approve its use here).
After he had scheduled members enough to justify building a church he
went among the brethren for subscriptions. Meeting two of his business
acquaintances he made known his plans to which they readily subscribed
a generous sum, only conditioned upon his steeple rising higher than
that of the church across the street. To this he readily assented, and
the spire stands today to attest his good works.