EXPERIENCES AMONG THE CHINESE.
The attentions which a curious populace lavish upon a stranger are apt
to become a trouble and a burden, as Garnier experienced, when, after
an interesting survey of the environs of Lin-ngan, he returned to the
town. His steps were closely dogged by crowds of idlers and sightseers.
On his arrival at the pagoda where lodging had been provided for him,
behold! the balconies, the towers, the very roofs, were thronged with
wondering eyes.
As he entered the court, the multitude pressed in upon him, and hemmed
him up at last in a narrow space, where they evidently designed to hold
him fast until their curiosity was satiated. Angry and ashamed, he bore
their scrutiny for an hour; when, his strength and patience giving
way, he made a sudden exit into his lodgings, closing the door of the
court behind him. It proved, however, an insufficient barrier against
the surging throng. They broke through it in a second, and were with
difficulty kept back a little by Garnier’s small escort of soldiers,
who had attended him from Yuen-kiang. The lieutenant succeeded at last
in closing the door. Then loud and long were the reproaches which the
rearmost ranks heaped on those in front for having recoiled before a
barbarian from the West!
~ATTACK BY THE CHINESE.~
A stone, hurled through the grating, struck Garnier full in the face;
others followed, until there seemed every likelihood of his undergoing
the tortures of the ancient punishment by lapidation! Yet he yielded
not an inch, but leaning against the door, which shook before the storm
of missiles, seized his revolver, and fired it in the air. Firearms
of such deadly powers are not known at Lin-ngan, and the crowd, in
the firm belief that by discharging his weapon Garnier had virtually
disarmed himself, recommenced their volleys of stones. He fired again,
and again, and again; and the people, terrified by a weapon which
apparently was inexhaustible, fell back in a panic, and the danger
proved to be past.
Soon afterwards Garnier was joined by the rest of the expedition; and
setting out from inhospitable Lin-ngan, the little company of explorers
proceeded on their way to Yunnan, the capital of a province of the same
name.
Yunnan is a town of some importance, with a very numerous and
industrious population. Every thoroughfare presents a scene of the
liveliest activity. The town is surrounded by a high and massive wall;
and from the south gate extends a long broad street, lined with shops,
each of which has on its front a sign in gilded characters, while the
interior is filled with wares of extraordinary richness and variety.
Some Jesuit missionaries are stationed here.
[Illustration: VALLEY OF KON-TCHANG.]
~FROM YUNNAN TO MONG-KOU.~
~A WELL-CULTIVATED DISTRICT.~
The travellers now entered the green valley of Kon-tchang, through
the leafy shades of which tumbles a sparkling, noisy stream, while on
either hand rise venerable trees, with trunks bent and contorted as
if by some sudden convulsion. Thence they ascended to Mong-kou by a
difficult road, winding round the precipitous flank of a wind-swept
height, the summit of which, some twelve thousand feet above the sea,
was capped with snow. Wild and romantic was the character of the
scenery, reminding the travellers of that of Switzerland. At intervals
the expedition met with a check to its progress from the jealousy of
the Chinese officials, but resolution and tact overcame every obstacle.
Through the broad valley of Tong-chuen they debouched on a small but
well-cultivated plain, where the solid embankment of the bed of a
torrent formed a kind of causeway, raised seven to ten feet above the
surrounding level. From the sides of this elevated dyke issue numerous
canals, which distribute the fertilizing waters of the stream over all
the thirsty fields. Here, as in many other districts of China, the
patient industry of the labourer has transformed a devastating force
into a fountain of wealth and fecundity. The aspect of the plain is
very grateful to the eye. Yellow clusters of the colza mingle with
the white or purple corollas of the poppies. From the ridge which
terminates it is visible a deep cleft in the barrier of mountains that
stretches far along the horizon. This is the valley of the Blue River,
locally known as the Kin-cha-kiang, or “River of the Golden Sand.”
Our explorers came upon this river on the 31st of January. It rolled
its clear deep waters in a ravine two thousand feet below them. Their
route, however, still lay along the mountain-sides, and they suffered
severely from the rigour of the cold and the heavy storms of snow
which beat continually upon their devoted heads. On the 3rd of February
they crossed the most elevated point they had reached in all their
wanderings,--the barometer indicating an elevation of nearly ten
thousand feet. Then they began to descend, each stage opening up to
their enraptured gaze a succession of glorious mountain-views, relieved
by occasional glimpses of finely wooded valleys, and of bright streams
that leaped and bounded in their haste to join the great river of the
plains. As they descended the temperature necessarily grew warmer, and
out of the inclemencies of winter they rapidly passed into the genial
airs of spring.
[Illustration: CROSSING A RAVINE.]
~LAKE OF TALY.~
~FORTRESS OF HIANG-KUAN.~
On the 29th of February, from the summit of the col which forms the
little valley of Kuang-tsa-pin, they discovered the lake of Taly, one
of the finest and grandest pictures which had excited their admiration
since they entered on their expedition. The background consists of a
lofty chain of snow-capped mountains, at the foot of which the blue
waters of the lake break up the plain into a maze of low promontories
covered with gardens and villages. A short descent brought them to
the borders of the lake, which they passed to the northward in order
to reach its eastern shore. The many villages through which they
took their way exhibited the cruellest traces of devastation. Only
the cultivated fields seem to have been spared, and these presented
a flourishing appearance. In due time they arrived before the gates
of the fortress of Hiang-kuan; which, erected at the very base of the
mountain, and on the margin of the lake, completely barred the passage.
There they learned from the mandarin in charge, that he would not allow
them to continue their journey, until permission had been obtained from
the sultan of Taly. This reached them on the following day; and, on the
2nd of March, the journey was resumed. They passed through Hiang-kuan,
the walls of which bathe on the one side their feet in the waters of
the lake, and on the other ascend the flanks of the mountain, which
forms a tremendous precipice, rendering the defile very easy of defence.
Beyond, the shore of the lake again expanded into a magnificent plain,
in the centre of which is situated the city of Taly. At the southern
extremity of the lake the mountains again close in upon its waters; and
this second defile is commanded by another fortress--that of Hia-kuan.
Hia-kuan and Hiang-kuan, surrounded by massive crenelated ramparts,
are the two gates of Taly. Defended by brave men they would be
impregnable, and render access to the city impossible except by water.
~A DISAGREEABLE INCIDENT.~
A great paved causeway crosses the plain of Hiang-kuan to Taly.
Escorted by ten soldiers, the French travellers entered the latter
city by its north gate. In a few moments an immense crowd gathered in
their rear, and lined each side of the great street which traverses
Taly from north to south. Having arrived in front of the sultan’s
palace--a crenelated building of sombre and severe aspect--they
halted to parley with a couple of mandarins who had been sent to meet
them. During this vexatious pause they were surrounded and pressed
upon by the crowd, and a soldier violently snatched off the hat of
one of the strangers--probably in order that the sultan, who was
regarding them from an upper balcony, might the better see his face.
This insolence was punished immediately by a blow which drew blood
from the aggressor’s countenance, and gave rise to an indescribable
tumult. The interposition of the two mandarins, the resolute attitude
of the Annamites, who grouped themselves around the French travellers,
and unsheathed their sword-bayonets, arrested, however, the hostile
demonstrations of the crowd, and they reached without further
_contretemps_ the yamen assigned to them for a residence, situated at
the southern extremity of the town.
~ARRIVAL AT TALY.~
Immediately after their arrival, a mandarin of higher rank than any
they had previously seen presented himself as the formal representative
of the sultan, and asked who they were, whence they came, and what they
wanted.
~THE FRENCHMAN AND THE MANDARIN.~
Through the medium of one Père Leguilcher, a Jesuit missionary,
who had accompanied them, Garnier replied, that they had been sent
by the French Government to explore the countries watered by the
Lan-tsan-kiang; that having arrived in Yunnan some months ago, they
had learned that a new kingdom had been established at Taly, and had
desired to pay their respects to its ruler, with the view of opening
up commercial and friendly relations between France and him. Some
explanations of the scientific object and really pacific character of
their mission were added. Garnier offered an excuse also for having
only presents of small value to offer to the sultan; and for being
unable, along with the officers of the expedition, to appear before
him in suitable costume, the length and difficulties of their journey
having compelled them to leave behind almost all the baggage. The
mandarin replied very graciously that there was no need for apologies
on that score, and that as they were, they would be welcome. To
prevent mistakes, Garnier then asked for details as to the ceremonial
observed at an audience of the sovereign. It was customary, said the
mandarin, to make three genuflexions before the sultan. On Garnier
objecting to this servile homage, he consented to allow the French
usage, with the condition that no one carried arms into the august
presence. After an interchange of compliments, the mandarin took his
leave, while the Frenchmen remained enraptured with his cordiality and
straight-forwardness.
* * * * *
Before long he returned, accompanied by a ta-seu--that is, by one of
the eight great dignitaries who compose the council of the sultan.
Both requested Lieutenant Garnier to repeat the explanations he had
previously given as to the objects of the expedition; and he did so, in
the fewest words possible. “You were not, then, sent expressly by your
sovereign to Taly?” “How could that be,” replied the lieutenant, “when
at our departure nobody in France knew that the town had a king?”
They then requested M. Garnier to intrust to them, for the purpose
of showing them to the sultan, the Chinese letters, of which he was
the bearer, to the king of Se-chuen. To this he consented; and they
withdrew, apparently quite satisfied.
The first night at Taly was undisturbed. The lieutenant’s intention
was, if all went well, to leave his companions to rest themselves for
a few days in the city; while he and Père Leguilcher pushed forward
to the banks of the Lan-tsan-kiang, about four days’ journey, and
ascended that river as far as Li-kiang-foo, where the remainder of the
expedition would rejoin him in due course.
~THE SULTAN’S ORDERS.~
~THE SULTAN AND THE PRIEST.~
At nine o’clock next morning, when he was collecting all the
information necessary for the execution of this project, a messenger
came from the sultan to fetch Père Leguilcher. He did not return
until noon, and then his face was overclouded. The sultan refused
to see them, and had issued orders that they were to quit the city
on the following morning, and return by the route they came. “Make
known to the strangers,” he had said, “that they may seize all the
lands bordering upon the Lan-tsan-kiang, but they will be compelled
to halt on the frontiers of my kingdom. They may subjugate the
eighteen provinces of China; but that which I govern will cause them
more trouble than all the rest of the empire. Dost thou not know,”
he continued, “that it is but three days since I put to death three
Malays? If I grant their lives to your companions, it is only because
they are strangers, and on account of the letters of recommendation
which they carry. But let them hasten their return. They may have
sketched my mountains, and fathomed the depths of my rivers; but they
will not succeed in conquering them. As for thee,” concluded the
sultan, in a softer tone, “I know thy religion, and have read its
books. Mohammedans and Christians are brothers. Return to thy place of
residence, and I will make thee a mandarin, to the end that thou mayst
govern thy people.”
Throughout the interview, the father was kept standing, and not allowed
to speak; overwhelmed with questions to which no reply was permitted,
interpellated and hooted at by the crowd.
To what circumstance, says M. Garnier, was so abrupt a change
attributable? Undoubtedly to the influence of the military advisers of
the king, who would be unable to believe in a purely scientific and
disinterested mission. A despotism sprung from a revolution, abhorred
by the masses whom it overwhelmed with imposts, existing only through
terror and crime, is forced to be cruel and suspicious. The official
relations between the French explorers and the Chinese authorities had
placed the former, with regard to the sultan of Taly, in a delicate
position which justified his mistrust.
~THE EXPEDITION FOILED.~
During the rest of the day, the travellers were visited by a great
number of Mohammedan functionaries, actuated by curiosity or a desire
to watch their doings. They thought it prudent, therefore, to abstain
from sketching or taking notes. About five o’clock, the sultan sent
for the chief of their escort; who returned soon afterwards, and said
that he had orders to conduct them back to Hiang-kuan on the following
morning. He showed M. Garnier at the same time a sealed document, which
he had to convey to the mandarin of that fortress. A few presents
attached him to the interests of the French explorers, who arranged to
start with him at daybreak and avoid traversing the town. For Garnier
feared lest, the sultan’s suspicions and anger being known, the crowd
should break out into open hostility, or a few soldiers attempt to
satisfy their ruler’s secret desire without actually compromising him.
At nightfall, the lieutenant took care to see that all the weapons of
his party were loaded, and instructed them what steps to take in case
of a surprise. He sought, by liberal promises, to secure the complete
fidelity of the porters.
~A NIGHT OF SUSPENSE.~
The night was spent in a painful condition of expectancy. A sentinel
had been stationed at their door, who followed them each time they
went out. M. Garnier dreaded every moment the arrival of an order to
prohibit their departure, and transform their temporary confinement
into definite captivity. About eleven o’clock one of the great
mandarins of the sultan sent to inquire by what route they intended
to return; and received for reply, that they did not know. The night
passed without any other incident.
At five in the morning they were on the march, well armed, and
carefully grouped; they turned the city of Taly by the south and east,
and with scarcely a halt crossed the twenty miles that separated them
from Hiang-kuan. As they were about to enter the first gate of the
fortress, the chief of their escort stopped them, and said he was
ordered, pending the arrival of fresh instructions from the sultan, to
lodge them in a small yamen which he obligingly pointed out.
Garnier pretended to regard as a special act of courtesy what was
evidently neither more nor less than a disguised sequestration, and
replied that, after the cold welcome he had received at Taly, he could
not accept the sultan’s hospitality. Unwilling, however, that this
hurried retreat should look too like a flight, he added that if the
mandarin of Hiang-kuan had any communications to make, he would await
them in the little wayside _auberge_ where he had rested on his way to
Taly.
~LEAVING HIANG-KUAN.~
The Mohammedan officer objected that he would be assuming a grave
responsibility if he allowed any such modification of the sultan’s
orders. But Garnier was resolute; having determined, if necessary, to
force a passage before he could have time to arouse the garrison of
Hiang-kuan. While the sultan’s lieutenant put his horse at a gallop to
forewarn the governor of the dispute which had arisen, Garnier led his
little company through the fortress gates, without encountering any
fresh obstacles, and in a few minutes was encamped at the _auberge_
already spoken of, with the open country before him.
He had scarcely arrived when the governor of Hiang-kuan sent for Père
Leguilcher. He offered him an enormous price for the revolver which
Garnier had intended for the sultan, and stated that he had orders to
furnish them with a new escort, and two mandarins to accompany them to
the frontier, and regulate the stages of their journey; and further,
that they were to pass the night at Hiang-kuan, and wait until the
following morning for the arrival of the said mandarins and escort.
~THE RETURN JOURNEY.~
Garnier replied that he would make a present of the weapon, but that
he did not sell arms; that in his journey he reserved to himself full
liberty of action, and that he cared nothing at all about the mandarins
and the promised escort. This he conclusively showed by starting in the
evening for Ma-cha, a village situated at the northern extremity of the
lake.
* * * * *
~THE MISSIONARY’S ALARM.~
On the 5th of March the journey was continued; and by nightfall the
expedition reached the town of Kuang-tia-pin. Their arrival was
immediately made known to the commandant of the neighbouring fort, who
sent for Père Leguilcher. The good monk was filled with alarm at the
thought of the probable results of the interview. The commandant might
have received orders to separate from their interpreter the little
company of strangers; who, left to themselves, unacquainted with the
language and ignorant of the customs of the country, might the more
easily be entrapped into an ambuscade! On the other hand, the route lay
underneath the guns of the fort, and it was imprudent to come to an
open rupture with its governor. They contented themselves, therefore,
with replying that the evening was too far advanced for a visit, but
that Père Leguilcher would accept the invitation next morning.
This answer did not satisfy; and three soldiers presented themselves
with orders for the father to follow them.
The poor missionary, overcome with terror, thought that his last hour
had come. It seemed to him as dangerous to resist as to obey. M.
Garnier had to decide for him; and he repeated to the soldiers the
reply already given, and desired them to be content with it. They
insisted on their instructions with all the insolence and astonishment
inspired by a resistance to which they were unaccustomed. Alarmed by
their threats, which Père Leguilcher understood much better than his
companions, the missionary wished to comply; but Garnier detained him,
while his Annamite attendants showed the soldiers “the way out.” The
latter retired, vowing that they would return in great force, and that
the heads of the strangers should soon be adorning the posts in the
market-place.
~PRUDENCE AND PRECAUTION.~
By this time the travellers had become accustomed to such “brave
words,” and gave little heed to them. They took, however, the necessary
precautions: each man received a revolver in addition to his carbine,
and even Père Leguilcher consented to equip himself with carnal
weapons. All the approaches to the _auberge_ were guarded, and the
utmost vigilance was maintained throughout the night. They were but ten
in number; but as each was equipped with carbine and revolver, they
could discharge seventy shots without reloading, which would suffice to
keep at a respectful distance a whole regiment of Mohammedans. But no
enemy made his appearance.
* * * * *
~ARRIVAL AT THE MISSIONARY’S RESIDENCE.~
At daybreak, after having passed in review before them all their
porters, and appointed the town of Too-tong-tse as a rendezvous,
Garnier and his companions, on horseback, escorted the Jesuit
missionary to the gate of the fortress. They then informed the
commandant that the father had come to pay the desired visit, but that
it could not be prolonged beyond ten minutes; if at the expiration of
that time the father had not returned, they would come in quest of him.
This peremptory message was intended to produce an impression on people
accustomed to see everybody trembling before them. Such language to
them would be terrifically novel! It had a good effect. The governor of
the fortress contented himself with communicating to Père Leguilcher
the order he had received from Taly to escort them to the frontier. The
father replied in the words which Garnier had addressed to the governor
of Hiang-kuan, and his interlocutor did not insist; he even begged him
to shorten the interview, for fear, he said, he should overstay the
time allotted, and arouse the impatience of the “great men.” And so, an
hour later, the whole party arrived in safety at the worthy father’s
residence, where they enjoyed ten days of entire rest, rendered
necessary by the fatigue and emotion they had recently undergone.
On the 7th another messenger arrived from the fort, with a request
that Père Leguilcher would come “alone” to consult with the governor
on the stages of the travellers’ journey. No notice was taken of the
communication.
* * * * *
~ABOUT THE TALY LAKE.~
In spite of the rapidity with which M. Garnier had been compelled to
pursue his march, he contrived to collect some interesting particulars
of the country, its inhabitants, and resources.
The lake of Taly, situated at an elevation above the sea-level of
upwards of seven thousand five hundred feet, measures about twenty
miles from north to south, with an average breadth of two miles. Its
depth is very considerable,--exceeding three hundred and twenty feet
at some points. There appear to be several islands scattered towards
the south-east. The level of the lake is higher than that of the
neighbouring rivers, and its overflow may possibly help to feed those
on the north and east, which belong to the Blue River basin. Ostensibly
it pours forth its waters at its southern extremity by a river which
empties itself into the Mekong. At the mouth of this river, which is
not navigable, stands the fortress of Hia-kuan, already spoken of.
Shortly after issuing from the lake, it divides into two branches, but
these unite again lower down. During the rainy season the waters rise
fully seventeen feet; in the dry season, the chain of the Tien Song
mountains, on the western shore of the lake, send down a succession of
violent squalls, which greatly impede its navigation. This chain, the
elevation of which is estimated at sixteen thousand feet, is clothed
with snow for nine months in the year. On the opposite bank rises a
mass of heights belonging to a range of inferior importance. Between
these mountains and the lake some richly-cultivated fields slope gently
to the edge of the deep blue waters.
The lake abounds in fish, which are principally caught by birds trained
for the purpose. The process adopted is better than that known in
Europe as _de pêche au cormoran_.
~THE LAKE FISHERMEN.~
The fishermen set out at early morn, making a tremendous din and
clamour, so as to awaken the attention of the numerous troops of birds
slumbering around them. They embark on board flat-bottomed boats, each
provided with a well, which they allow to drift along slowly, while one
of them, stationed at the bow, throws into the water enormous balls
of rice. The fish hasten in immense shoals to enjoy the banquet; and
the fishing-birds, flocking round the boats in great numbers, dive and
reappear immediately, each with a fish in its bill. As fast as they
fill their pouch, the boatmen empty it into the interior of the bark,
leaving to each winged fisher just enough to satisfy its appetite and
encourage its ardour. In half an hour each boat is loaded, and the
boatmen hasten to dispose of their stores at the nearest market.
* * * * *
~THE MIN-KIA POPULATION.~
The plain of Taly formerly contained upwards of one hundred and fifty
villages, which the sultan has attempted to repeople almost exclusively
with Mohammedans. The eastern shore is inhabited by the Min-kia and
Pen-ti populations, who are descended from the first Chinese colonists
whom the Mongolian dynasty sent into Yunnan after the conquest of
that province. The Min-kia come from the neighbourhood of Nankin.
The women do not mutilate their feet; and the young people of both
sexes wear a kind of bonnet, of original form, ornamented by a silver
pearl. Evidence of their admixture with the former inhabitants of the
country is found in their costumes and language. These ancient Chinese
emigrants are treated with contempt by pure-blooded Chinese; and hence
results an antagonism which not a little contributed to ensure the
neutrality of the Min-kia, at the beginning of hostilities between
the Mohammedans and the Imperialists. But, after a while, the despotic
and violent acts of the rulers of Taly exasperated even this pacific
race; and, led by an energetic chief named Tong, the Min-kia long
maintained a successful resistance against the Mohammedans. Tong fell
in battle in 1866, and the conquerors pursued his family with merciless
vengeance. At present, the natives of the districts contiguous to
Taly, disorganized and without a leader, submit to, while hating, the
domination of the sultan. The Pen-ti occupy more particularly the plain
of Tong-chuen, north of the lake, and the district of the Pe-yen-tsin.
Their costume is original and characteristic.
~THE MOUNTAIN TRIBES.~
Under different names, the Lolos, or representatives of the
autochthonous race, inhabit the summits of the mountains, and assert
their independence. With their continual forays they harass the
dwellers in the plains. Certain districts in the vicinity of Pien-kio
pay to one of these tribes, the Tcha-Su, an annual sum by way of
blackmail, in order to secure their cattle. Even this payment, however,
does not protect them from occasional depredations; and they cannot
claim, when their herds are carried off, more than half their value.
A considerable trade is carried on between Taly and Tibet, consisting
of imports of _kuang-lien_, a bitter root much used in Chinese
medicine, woollen stuffs, stag-horns, bear-skins, fox-skins, wax, oils,
and resinous gums. Exports from Yunnan include tea, cottons, rice,
wine, sugar, mercery, and hardware.
~MINERAL TREASURES.~
The industrial production of the kingdom of Taly has diminished
considerably since the war. Formerly, it was of much importance from
a metallurgical point of view. The copper mines of Long-pao, Ta-kong,
and Pe-iang are the most valuable in the whole country, where are also
found deposits of gold, silver, mercury, iron, lead, and zinc. At
Ho-kin paper is made from bamboo. The stems of the plant are made up
into bundles of equal length, which are peeled and macerated in lime.
They are afterwards placed in an oven, and steamed for twenty days;
then they are exposed to a current of cold water, and deposited in
layers in a second oven, each layer being covered with a coating of
pease-meal and lard. After another “cooking,” they are converted into
a kind of paste, which is extended on trellis-work in excessively thin
layers, and dried in the sun. In this way the manufacturers turn out
their sheets of a paper coarse and uneven enough, but very stout.